ON the morning of the 12th December, our other preparations being
completed, we commenced loading the camels. The distribution of the
baggage was a very tedious operation, owing chiefly to the quarrelling
of the drivers with each other, every man trying to get as light a load
as possible for his own camel. The baggage required on the journey had
to be kept separate from the rest, and each load had to be divided so as
to balance on the camel’s back,—a complicated arrangement, which led to
endless wrangling on the part of the drivers. It was only after
summoning to our aid the Kaimakam, who threatened them with imprisonment
and bastinado, that we at last got the caravan under weigh. It consisted
of ten camels, on two of which our Maltese servants were mounted, four
camel-drivers and four blacks on foot, and Mr. Cesareo, two guides, and
ourselves on horseback. We left late in the afternoon, and were
accompanied some distance by Mr. Crowe, and his interpreter Mr. Levi. It
was with great regret that we bade him adieu, although little thinking
that we should never see him again. We had spent twelve days with him
most pleasantly, and his kind hospitality had made even Benghazi a
second home to us.
We halted for the night at the “Garden of Osman” mentioned above. This
is a favourite resting-place for caravans starting from Benghazi, as it
has a well of excellent water, with which the Arabs fill their “girbehs”
before proceeding on their journeys. Here we pitched our two tents, one
for our servants and baggage, and the other for Mr. Cesareo and
ourselves. The following morning, after filling our water-skins and
loading the camels, we started at half-past eight, and rode straight
across the plain in the direction of the hills. Before we had reached
them, however, the rain, which had been threatening all the morning,
began to pour in torrents. Further progress was impossible, as the
camels could hardly keep their feet on the soft slippery ground; and we
were consequently obliged to halt about the middle of the day at the
foot of the range of hills known as the Augŭbah of Benghazi. We chose
the best site for encamping we could find, but had great difficulty in
pitching our tents, on account of the high wind and the softness of the
ground, which by this time was saturated with water. We had to make use
of our storm guys, as the ordinary ones were much too short to keep the
tents up by themselves. It was nearly evening before we had everything
snug for the night. Our efforts to light a fire, after innumerable
failures, were finally successful, and soon after dark we had a splendid
bonfire, which had a most cheering effect. The appearance of our little
camp was very striking,—camels kneeling round the tents, horses picketed
here and there, and groups of wild-looking Arabs crouching near the
fire, while all around was perfect darkness. Our Barbary mats proved a
great luxury, as the ground had become a perfect puddle with the
trampling of men and animals. Before we got under the shelter of the
tents, we had ample opportunity of testing the utility of the Arab
burnouses we had bought in Benghazi. The burnous—the origin of the
graceful one worn by ladies in Europe—is a long grey and white striped
woollen cloak with a hood, made throughout in one piece, without seams,
and woven thick and close enough to be waterproof. It is specially
adapted for riding, as it forms a sort of _tente d’abri_ for both horse
and horseman. In fine weather it may be rolled up and strapped to the Ds
of the saddle like a cavalry cloak.
The following day, the 14th, the weather was fine; but we were unable to
start, as the ground was still too slippery for the soft flat feet of
the camels. Meantime, two Arabs arrived, who were sent by the Kaimakam
to act as guides or escort; thus increasing our total number to
seventeen. We would willingly have dispensed with their presence, as
they only added to the number dependent on our rather slender stock of
provisions; but as the Kaimakam insisted on their accompanying us, we
thought it ungracious to send them back, and allowed them to remain. We
spent the day pleasantly enough, walking about the neighbouring hills
and ravines, and shooting partridges. We found neither golden plovers
nor sand-grouse, although they had been very plentiful near Benghazi.
Next morning, as the weather continued fine, we struck our tents, packed
up, and started about half-past nine. We ascended the Augŭbah by a
rugged path winding through a ravine, until we emerged on an extensive
plateau. For some miles the surface was undulating, with here and there
patches of trees and brushwood. In many places the landscape was very
pleasing, and somewhat resembled an English park on a large scale.
During summer the aspect is very different, as the verdure entirely
disappears under the scorching rays of the sun. As we proceeded, the
scene became less and less diversified, until we found ourselves
traversing what appeared a boundless plain, with neither tree nor shrub
to be seen. Some two or three miles to our left, the ground rose
slightly, forming a range of low hills parallel to our route. We saw
very little game, and were only able to add one partridge to our stock.
Shortly before sunset, we turned off our track to the low hills on the
left, where we pitched our tents in a very pretty spot among shrubs and
small trees, about a hundred yards from a Bedouin encampment. A good
fire soon cooked our dinner, which, on this occasion, was improved by
the addition of some mushrooms gathered during the day.
The following morning, the 16th, we started about nine, and continued
our route across the plain nearly in a due easterly direction. There was
a strong southerly wind all day, which was so bitterly cold, that we
were glad to wrap ourselves in our comforters and burnouses for
protection. We were rather astonished at the time to find the cold so
piercing; but we afterwards observed that the south wind, proverbially a
hot one in summer, is invariably the coldest in winter; a fact which may
be accounted for by the effect of the great tract of elevated land which
extends far to the southward, compared with the moderating influence of
the Mediterranean on the north. After riding about eighteen miles, our
path, for four or five miles, lay through a thick wood of juniper and
cedar trees, which for a time sheltered us from the biting wind. When we
had passed the wood, we saw the castle of Merdj about three miles
distant, near the south-western end of the plain of the same name.
Shortly after four o’clock we arrived at the Castle, where we were
warmly welcomed by the Mudir, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha, who had just
arrived from Barca, a district under his rule, to the southward of
Benghazi. Our camels did not arrive till after dark.
Hadji Achmet made us as comfortable as possible in his only room, and
gave us the most sumptuous dinner that could be provided.
During the night the rain began again, and continued at intervals all
next day, so that we were obliged to remain two days until the ground
dried. The delay, however, was not unpleasant, as Hadji Achmet did
everything in his power to make our stay agreeable. He was particularly
jovial and good-humoured; so much so, that it was impossible to be out
of spirits in his company. He enjoyed hearing amusing stories, and had a
fund of them of his own, which he told with great glee. He was descended
from an old and powerful family in Mesurata, near Tripoli, and as
commander of the Koralié, had rendered good service to the Sultan’s
Government during the rebellion of Ghomer. It was by him that Ghomer was
at last taken and slain.
The castles of Merdj and Ghegheb were built about fifteen years ago by
the Turks, and are always occupied by one or two companies of regular
Turkish troops. They were intended as a means of overawing the Arabs,
and assisting the Mudirs in collecting the tribute. They have utterly
failed in attaining the former object; but, inasmuch as they afford a
comparatively safe residence for the Mudir and his money-chest, they may
be said, in some degree, to have accomplished the latter. The Castle or
Gŭsr (Arabicè) of Merdj is a quadrangular casemated building with round
flanking towers at the angles, in each of which an old 9-pounder
carronade is mounted on a superannuated carriage. The garrison at this
time consisted of ninety cavalry, fifty infantry, and three officers.
The room to the left of the entrance is the Mudir’s, that on the right
the prison, and the remainder barracks and stables. The four marble
pillars shown in the Plate were found near the spot, and placed here to
ornament the Mudir’s room. Two of the capitals, of a mixed Corinthian
order, stand near them at the end of the room; the other two are
imitated in stucco. The Castle, although very dilapidated in appearance,
is strong in reality, being built for the most part of squared blocks of
stone found on the spot. It stands a little elevated above the
surrounding plain, on a small plateau formerly the site of Barca, an
offshoot of Cyrene, which attained to considerable size and importance,
and was one of the five cities which constituted the Pentapolis. Remains
of the ancient city may be seen in the materials of which the Castle is
built, and in the walls of the few wretched houses which have sprung up
near it; but none of them are worthy of any note. Near the gate of the
Castle, however, there is a deep well lined with masonry, evidently of
ancient date, which was discovered during the building of the Castle by
some workmen, who were digging for blocks of stone. It yields an
abundant supply of water, which, although very brackish, is a great boon
to the surrounding country during summer.
[Illustration: PLATE 6.—CASTLE AND VILLAGE OF MERDJ (BARCA).]
The plain of Merdj is of great extent, measuring upwards of twenty miles
in length, and from six to eight in breadth. It is perfectly level, and
is surrounded by ranges of hills, of which those on the east rise to a
height of about 500 feet above the plain. As seen from the hills, it
appears to have been at one time the bed of a lake. Its elevation above
the sea is probably about 1,000 feet. The soil is a deep rich loam,
about one third of which is under cultivation, and yields abundant crops
of wheat and barley. The rest of the plain is good grazing land, and is
much frequented by Arab encampments with their flocks during the early
part of summer, before the pools which have formed in winter are dried
up.
The weather having cleared up, we again got the caravan together, and
started on the morning of the 19th. The ground was still rather soft, so
that the camels could only walk at a slow and cautious pace. Our kind
host had loaded us with as many provisions as we could carry; among
other things, a sheep, bread, butter, and dates, and barley for the
horses. We shall always have a pleasant recollection of Gŭsr Merdj and
its hospitable Governor, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha (Pilgrim Achmet the
Son of the Ruler).
[Illustration: PLATE 7.—MUDIR’S ROOM IN THE CASTLE OF MERDJ.]
After crossing the plain in a north-easterly direction, we reached the
hills about mid-day. As we approached the verge of the plain, the
country became well wooded, the hills at the base being covered with
olives, and higher up with pines and junipers. A large quantity of oil
might be made every year from the olives; but the Arabs are either
ignorant of its value or too careless to take the trouble of collecting
the berries, which are left to be eaten by the goats. The remainder of
the day’s journey was chiefly through thick woods, in which we saw, for
the first time, the arbutus, which was then in full bloom, being covered
with both flower and fruit. The berries are of a bright red colour,
somewhat resembling strawberries in appearance, and, although not
luscious, are by no means disagreeable when quite ripe, notwithstanding
Pliny’s remark that they are called _unedo_, because he who has eaten
one will never wish to eat another. The bark is useful for tanning
purposes, and good charcoal has been made from the wood.
After travelling eight hours, we encamped for the night by some wells in
an open cultivated plain. The camels, as usual, were late in coming up,
and it was quite dark before we got the tents pitched. While waiting for
their arrival, we shot a good many golden plover.
The following day, we continued our journey through a very beautiful
country, the track passing over a succession of hills, from the summits
of which we had many extensive views. The valleys, enclosed by the well-
wooded sides of the hills, were frequently quite picturesque. To relieve
the monotony of the march, we used to ride on some miles ahead of the
caravan with one or two of the guides, until we reached a likely place
for game, where, leaving our horses in charge of the guides, we walked
about the covers shooting what we could find till the caravan came up.
In this way, we kept up our supplies without being obliged to encroach
on our small stock of preserved meat. This day we got a couple of hares,
seven partridges, and twenty-five golden plovers. We encamped at night
in the bottom of a ravine, where we found some water in the hollows of
the rock.
Next day, the 21st, we passed over a similar tract of country, the
features of which, however, became more strongly marked as we advanced,
the hills becoming higher and steeper, and more frequently intersected
by rugged ravines. Towards evening, we encamped by the side of an
ancient hill-fortress, doubtless of Roman construction, called by the
Arabs Gŭsr Biligadem, which occupies a most commanding position on the
top of a hill. The scenery in the immediate neighbourhood is very
beautiful, and the view from the Castle is one of the finest and most
extensive in the Cyrenaica. The Castle is an oblong building, measuring
160 feet by 80, with a square flanking tower in the centre of each of
the longer sides. It is still wonderfully perfect, the walls in some
parts still standing to a height of 40 feet. Traces of a ditch and
counterscarp may also be seen on two of its sides. It is built
throughout of large squared blocks without mortar, and each wall is
double, consisting, in fact, of two walls built close to each other, but
without any connecting bond. Over the entrance, there is a double arch,
the inner one of which is built on the radiating, and the outer on the
more ancient horizontal principle. Near the Castle, there is a large
well, now choked up, and a number of tombs cut in the sides of the rock.
Forts in similar positions occur in different parts of the Cyrenaica,
none of which, however, are nearly so perfect as Biligadem. They were
most probably built by the Romans soon after they acquired possession of
the country, and were placed so as to protect the communications between
the different cities.
The following day, the 22nd, we started as early as possible, in the
hope of reaching Cyrene before sunset; but, owing to an error on the
part of the guide, night overtook us about four hours’ distance from our
destination. Immediately after leaving Biligadem, we descended into a
deep narrow ravine with rocky sides, called the Wady Il Aggur, the
bottom of which was covered with pines of immense size. Under the pines,
there was a perfect thicket of smaller trees and shrubs, such as the
carub or locust-tree, the juniper, oleander, &c. After winding along
this Wady for five hours without seeing any possible means of exit, we
turned up a smaller ravine to our left, and managed to climb to the top.
Soon afterwards, we passed the Zauyah El Beidah, the only modern
building we had seen after leaving Benghazi, except the Castle of Merdj.
A _Zauyah_ in Barbary is a sort of Mahomedan monastery and mosque
combined. The resident devotees, called _Achwan_, who, except in the
matter of celibacy, somewhat resemble monks, are under a chief, called
the _Sheikh El Zauyah_, a man of immense influence, as we afterwards
learned by most unpleasant experience. They belong to the sect of El
Senoussy, so called from the name of the founder, who died not many
years ago. Their chief object appears to be the revival of the
fanaticism and intolerance of the good old times of the true faith.
As it began to get dark soon after we had passed the Zauyah El Beidah,
we were obliged to halt and encamp for the night.
[Illustration: Pl. 8.
ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GŬSR BILIGADEM)
E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
Next morning, the 23rd, we started at nine, and after a three hours’
ride, arrived at Cyrene soon after midday. It was a cold gusty day, and
before we had reached our destination, the rain was falling in torrents.
The mist prevented our seeing to any distance; but the country
immediately around us, being perfectly destitute of trees and even
shrubs, looked desolate in the extreme. Meantime, we sought temporary
shelter from the storm in some rock tombs near the Fountain of Apollo.
When the rain had somewhat abated, we selected the cleanest and most
convenient of them for our future residence, and immediately set to work
to clear out the earth and rubbish with which it was nearly filled. When
the caravan arrived, some three hours afterwards, the drivers were so
impatient to be off, that they would not even stay to assist us in
getting the baggage under shelter. Our first night in our new quarters
was certainly rather cheerless. Bags and boxes soaked with the rain lay
in confusion on the muddy floor of the tomb, and no dinner could be had
for want of a fire to cook it.
We spent the whole of the next day in making our quarters as comfortable
as possible. The tomb we ourselves occupied was at the bottom of a steep
hill about 250 yards from the Fountain, and almost overhead there was a
long range of larger chambers also cut in the rock, which we used as
servants’ quarters, kitchen, stable, &c. Our room had two doors or
openings, one of which we built half-way up with stones and mud, leaving
the upper part open to serve as a window. The mats which we had bought
at Benghazi made an excellent carpet, and one of them suspended over the
entrance was a good substitute for a door. In the course of time, we
gradually improved our quarters by paving the entrance with tiles,
making steps up to the kitchen, &c. We contrived to build quite a
respectable door with rough planks cut from the trunks of trees.
[Illustration: PLATE 9.—INTERIOR OF OUR TOMB OF RESIDENCE.]
Having found on our arrival at Tripoli that our firman gave us authority
to dig for sculptures, and remove such as we found, we were anxious
before leaving Benghazi, to engage a few workmen to accompany us. Mr.
Crowe accordingly got us four negroes, whose liberation from slavery he
had recently obtained from the Kaimakam. Three of them having only just
been brought from the interior, could hardly speak a word of Arabic.
They seemed very glad to go with us, and all went well till we reached
Merdj, where we were told one morning, to our astonishment, that they
had enlisted as soldiers. Our friend, the Mudir, immediately ordered
them to be brought before him, but the only explanation he could get
from them was, that they preferred becoming soldiers to being killed.
They appeared to be highly indignant about something, and determined not
to go on with us. Some soldiers were also interrogated, but no
explanation could be elicited. It afterwards came out, however, that
some of the black soldiers had assured them that we were taking them
into the desert to cut their throats, and look for treasure with their
blood. The Mudir, with great difficulty, induced them to remain with us,
but it was some days before they were quite convinced of the innocence
of our intentions.
[Illustration: PLATE 10.—OUR WORKMEN—SALEH, MOHAMMED AND ABDULLAH.
_From a Photograph._]
[Illustration: Pl. 11.
WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO THE FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO
E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]