Pass through Sunda Strait--H. B. M. S. Rattler--Catch
the Trades--A learned opinion on Diaries--Extracts from
Diary--Isle of France--Its Romance--Bourbon--Mauritius--
Cape of Good Hope--Description--Trouble in getting in--
Table Bay and Mountain.
In passing through the Straits, after leaving Anger, H. B. M. screw
propeller "Rattler" went up on her way to China. Did not envy her
officers, nor feel at all inclined to exchange with them.
Ran out of the Straits with a fine leading wind, taking our departure
from Java-Head at early daylight on the morning of the 19th of March;
struck the "trades" at once, and held them to the 28th, when had made
1550 miles.
The distance run, by log, from Hong-Kong to Anger, was just nineteen
hundred forty-five and three-fourth miles, making us at that time
exactly three thousand four hundred and ninety-six on our way home. This
was done in a little over thirty days, including stoppage.
The learned Baron of Verulam has said: "It is a strange thing in sea
voyages, when there is nothing to be seen but sea and sky, that men
should make diaries, and omit them in land travel, as if chance were
fitter to be registered than observation." Now I have made my diary,
both at sea and on shore, and copy from it:
_At Sea, Sunday, April 11th, 1852._--Have now run down to the southward
of the Island of Madagascar, and are in the same longitude, having
passed the Isle of France, or the "Mauritius," and Bourbon safely.
Hurricanes prevail off these islands, but we have only had one small
blow. Last Sunday caught a shark, about seven feet and a half long.
Some of the men ate part of him.
Beautiful "Isle of France," degraded into Mauritius by the Dutch in
honor of their Stadtholder Maurice, but made celebrated by the pen of
Bernardin St. Pierre, as the scene of the life, loves and "fate of Paul
and Virginia, and consecrated by their tomb!" Creative power of genius,
thus to constitute an insignificant island, far, far away amongst the
distant waves of the Indian Ocean, a shrine to which pilgrims shall
resort in honor of true and young and ill-starred love!
Bourbon, too, the Island of Rëunion--happy nomenclature--has also
pleasant associations connected with its name.
Madagascar, however, from its importance, is worthy of a passing notice.
It is one of the largest islands known. It covers, in the Indian Ocean,
the spaces between latitudes 12° and 25° degrees south, and the
longitudes 43° and 51° east of London; at a close calculation, has been
found to fill up a superficies of over two hundred thousand square
miles;--equal in extent to the Pyrenean peninsula, composed of Spain and
Portugal. It has been but little explored; but treaties have been made
with its reigning powers by both Great Britain and the United States.
_Monday, April 19th._--At sea, in latitude 35° 13', about one degree
south of the Cape. Have been prevented from making entries in diary by
rough weather, and heartily joined the schoolmaster in his wish, that
"if Britannia _ruled_ the waves, she would bring them more parallel to
the '_Line_!'"
_Sunday, April 25th, 1852._--Are now off the Cape of Good Hope, called
by its discoverer, Diaz, Cabo Tormentoso, or the Tormenting Cape, from
the storms he encountered in its latitude. And well was it named, too,
in our case; for here we are, with a wind right in our teeth, trying to
beat up to Table Bay, and chasseeing to the Cape, as if to a stationary
partner.
Just sixty days from China, and have run by reckoning seven thousand one
hundred and forty-five miles,--our course giving us five thousand one
hundred and ninety-four and one-half miles from Anger.
On Friday night last, while becalmed off Cape Algulhas, caught a number
of very fine fish on the Algulhas banks. One kind was called "Cape
Salmon;" another species was known at Cape Town by the name of "King
Clip."
On last Sunday, had made our calculations to be in Cape Town on the
ensuing Tuesday, from the fine wind we had; but if we get in by next
Tuesday, shall consider ourselves fortunate. Can appreciate the
situation of Mynheer Vanderdecken now, and his anxiety to forward
letters by passing vessels. Shall take advantage of the steamer for
England, at Cape Town, to forward some myself; which have hopes will be
more fortunate in reaching their destination than the dispatches of the
Flying Dutchman, passing there, as they will, through the Colonial Post
Office.
The Cape of Good Hope is not the most extreme point of Southern Africa,
the before-mentioned Algulhas extending farther into the Southern Ocean.
Cape Town is to the westward of the Cape, upon an indentation called
Table Bay. But I will now resume my diary, as we are approaching a place
proper for it to be kept, according to the learned Lord Bacon. The next
date is,
_Southern Atlantic Ocean, May 3d, 1852._--Since last entry have been
into Table Bay, for water, and have been on shore at Cape Town. Are now,
as above, in latitude 30° 24' south, with the wind dead aft, heading up
the Atlantic for home: and from our last departure, begin to say at
last, "We're homeward bound!"
On Monday last, April 26th, came to anchor in Table Bay about 5 P. M.,
having spent that and the previous day in trying to get in.
The approach to Cape Town is interesting; Table Mountain, with its
extensive flat top, forming a prominent feature.
Before you round the point, which shuts in the anchorage, and excludes a
view of the town, leaving only the heavy brow of this mountain visible,
you pass along a coast composed of a long sloping hill in the
proportions of a lion _couchant_. It extends eastwardly and westwardly,
and the "Lion's Head" is first seen as you approach from the eastward.
Upon the mount called thus, is a large rock, very similar in appearance
to the outlines of a sculptured lion, of the Egyptian style of carving.
The hill gradually diminishing, makes a good representation of the mane
and hinder parts of a reposing lion; on what is distinguished as "the
Rump," is a signal station: along the part forming the flanks are
distributed beautiful country-seats: rounding "the Rump," the town is
visible, with Table Bay, and shipping.
Table Bay in itself is not very imposing; is a bad roadstead, and
vessels intending to make any stay at the colony, go round to Simon's
Bay, which is a safe roadstead within the larger one called False Bay.
Numerous windmills along the shore are remarkable objects, and prove the
scarcity of water to grind the corn. It is a feature in the economy of
Southern Africa, that streams, which are torrents at one season, become
almost dry beds in the other.
Table Mountain, with the well laid out town at its base, flanked by
"Devil's Peak" and "Lion's Head," makes a majestic, natural frame to a
beautiful landscape. This singular mountain, before whose noble
proportions the works of man sink into insignificance,--his dwellings
appearing, from its summit, mere ant-hills,--is 3,582 feet above the
level of the ocean; and for one thousand or more feet from its top
descends on the north-east side perpendicularly, whilst the flat
appearance of its lengthened surface completes the resemblance to the
piece of furniture from which it receives its _soubriquet_.
The long even line, cutting the sky at right angles, was very pretty to
look at while I was there. But a few weeks after, when Æolus spreads
"the cloth," and invites the winds to a feast, then let the mariner,
whose vessel may be caught in the bay beneath, beware. Forth from their
revels they rush over its precipitous sides, and ships become their
play-things, and man their prey!