Fabrico del Tobago--Manufacture of the Cheroot--Description of
the process--Female Operatives--Gigantic effects--Midshipman
attacked--A delightful Evening--Boat ahoy--Disappointed in trip
to Lagunade Bay--Funcion Familia--Madame Theodore--The Calçada
again--Margarita--Teatro Binondo--Teatro Tagalo de Tondo--
Espana--Anecdote of an Englishman--Farewell to Manilla--Out
to Sea.
The greatest curiosity of Manilla is its Tobacco Manufactory, or rather
the Segar Factory, for it is only into segars that the tobacco is made
here. It is a government monopoly, and the revenue from it is very
great.
I forget the number of segars said to be made daily, but there are
between eight and nine thousand women employed solely for that purpose,
and giving the small average of twelve segars to each, there would be
over one hundred thousand produced per diem; and yet the government is
unable to meet the demand for them, having, as I learned, orders months
ahead.
The article manufactured is called the Cheroot, and is made in two
different styles--one called _Cortada_, from having both ends cut; the
other, Havana, being twisted at one end like the Cuban segar. They have
but lately commenced to make them in this fashion, and these are put up
principally for the California market, where doubtless they are disposed
of as the real Habana.
Cheroots, in any shape, are worth in Manilla about eight dollars per M.,
subject, I believe, to a small export duty, which more than covers the
expense for boxes, labels, and packing, so that supposing each woman to
make the number stated above, and the whole force to be employed, we
have the immense sum of eight hundred thousand dollars worth of segars
from this mammoth Tobaccary per diem. Each operative receives one real a
day, but there are others not enumerated in this class, such as male
laborers, overseers, inspectors, accountants, book-keepers, &c., who
receive from twelve to thirty dollars per mensem, so that two thousand
dollars daily is not a large estimate of wages paid out by this
establishment.
The interior is divided into sections, of which there are nine or ten.
In each section from eight hundred to one thousand women are engaged. At
the head of each sectional division are rooms for inspection, where are
stationed persons to examine the segars, who return those which do not
come up to a certain standard. Of those that pass the test a sample is
placed, after being marked and numbered, in a glass case suspended in
the apartment.
Every morning a certain quantity of tobacco is given to each person, and
water is measured out sufficient to dampen it. The operatives are held
accountable for the material. Out of the number of hanks of the leaf so
many segars are to be produced, and if the water is used for any other
than the specified purpose, no more can be procured. They are said to
resort to many ingenious expedients to eke out the allowance. From eight
to ten women are employed together, squatted at a low table; and there
are double rows of these tables, leaving a space to pass through the
centre of the room. At each table the entire process of making the
cheroot is performed. The leaf is untwisted from the form into which it
is fashioned by the grower, spread out and dampened. For the purpose of
flattening these leaves they are supplied with stones, with which, and
their tongues, an incessant and most infernal clatter is kept up. One of
the party selects and arranges the tobacco, another fills the segar and
hands it to her neighbor, who rolls it into shape and passes it to the
next person, who cuts it, and it is thus quickly transferred from hand
to hand, until the care-dispelling cheroot is perfected and prepared for
inspection. As each is completed, it is dropped into a basket placed at
the end of the table nearest the passage way, from which the cheroots
are taken and tied up into bundles. The Cortada into bunches of ten. The
Havanas always in bundles of twenty-five.
The factory, as may be supposed, is very extensive, and covers a
considerable area. The delineations of it upon the Manilla segar boxes,
though rude, are tolerably good illustrations, and will convey some idea
of the appearance of the building externally. But a visit within its
walls is necessary to a realization of its importance.
I am ignorant of the name and title of the Narcotian saint who has the
honor to preside over these operations, but they have images of several
stuck up in niches at the entrance to the different sections; and if the
sense of smelling in their originals, be equal to that of _hearing_,
which has been attributed to them, there floats about them sufficient of
the aroma of tobacco to gratify the nostrils of the most inveterate
snuff-taker that ever was canonized.
My companion on this visit was the young gentleman who slid into the
sentimentals, as I have recorded, upon the moonlighted mole. He was
born and _raised_ (as they say) in the West; nor did he discredit
his _raising_, being in the proportion of every thing native to that
extensive country, and six feet three or four inches in height. It was
amusing to notice the sensation he created as he strode through the
different apartments. As he approached, the clatter of both tongues and
stones ceased, and hundreds of eyes would be upraised to scan his
towering proportions. They have pretty black eyes, those Tagalo girls,
and exuberant crops of jet black hair too; but it is coarse, and freely
anointed with that pungent unguent, cocoanut oil! "Mira! El Gigantè!"
would be ejaculated in Spanish, whilst no less sonorous notes of
admiration would be issued in the Tagalo dialect.
Two Spanish soldiers accompanied us as a guard, and I doubt not but
that their presence prevented these unsophisticated damsels from laying
violent hands upon my virtuous friend. Indeed, I was told of an English
midshipman, who, with the usual assurance of his order, disdaining the
protection of a soldier, ventured alone into the midst of the female
Indian army, which, relying upon its numerical strength, and either
prompted by curiosity, or feeling inclined to resent such bold
intrusion, surrounded him and handled him so roughly, that he was
obliged to "ignominiously cry for quarter;" and was only released after
the loss of his uniform jacket and some other articles of male attire.
Of course, we witnessed no demonstration of this kind, and I do not
vouch for the truth of the "yarn"--telling it only "as 'twas told to
me."
From the segar factory to the bath, which, with a change of garments,
found necessary to remove the taint of tobacco obtained by remaining so
long amidst such quantities of it. Then a siesta, and after drove to
dine with our kind friends who procured permits for our admission to the
"Fabrica del Tobago." After dinner to spend the evening with a Spanish
family related to our mercurial friend, Don Cæsar de Bazan. Had dancing,
polkas and mazourkas being especial favorites; singing also, and music
from La Norma and Sonnambula, exquisitely performed. At eleven o'clock
were forced to tear ourselves away from as delightful a party as it had
been our lot to enjoy since we had left our native land, and pulling off
in a rocking banca to exchange the soft and liquid notes of beautiful
Señoras, for the gruff salute of the sentry.
Had been strongly pressed to make one of a party to Laguna de Bay, but
coming on shore found the day for our departure fixed, and as the party
could not be expected to return by that time, were reluctantly compelled
to decline.
Found, however, invitations awaiting us for a "Funcion Familia" that
evening, which accepted. Determining to make the most of the time that
remained, procured a "piscanté" and drove through the suburbs. In the
"Escolta"--principal street--found the establishment of Madame Theodore,
a fine-looking Mestizo woman, who sells peña dresses, etc., and has a
splendid assortment. She is said to be very wealthy, and though still
young--a widow, and is doing a very large business. Of course she has
plenty of suitors, and is a _match_ for them all; for she appears to
have attained perfection in the art of managing men. Should a college of
women ever want a professor, she deserves a degree of Mistress of Arts,
and would admirably fill the Chair of Coquetry.
Dined again with our kind friends, and then took a last drive upon the
Calçada. Backwards and forwards along this beautiful _paseo_ we went,
the moon lending her enchantment, and the different bands filling the
air with ravishing strains, odorous plants of the tropics lading it with
perfumes, and the dark-eyed Señoras reclining in their luxurious
calesas, gave as good an idea of a paradise of Mahomet's order as one
could wish. Lingered here as long as we could, and then off to the
"Funcion," where spent a delightful evening. This was a family dancing
party, such as the French describe by the words "_Soirée dansante_." At
it met several of the ladies we had seen on Sunday, after poor Maraquita
had taken the veil. Were very kindly received, and warmly greeted by the
sunny smile and speaking eyes of Señora Margarita. The ladies danced
with much grace, and entered into the spirit of the thing as if they
enjoyed it. They were in different costumes, and saw here the only
graceful exhibition of the _Jaceto_ and _Sciar_. Many of them had no
covering to their beautiful little feet, excepting that magical slipper
named before, which they managed to admiration, never allowing it to
lose its position, or to touch the floor at any other part but the toe,
to which it adhered with singular tenacity, through the most difficult
steps of the whirling waltz or puzzling polka.
The lovely daughter of the Don--Margarita, however, was dressed in the
latest Parisian fashion, and looked like an--angel, I was going to
write, but the recollection of that "lurking devil" in her eye stayed
the perjury of my pen. She looked a real bona fide woman, and a specimen
of the race I shall be well enough satisfied with, until I am assured
beyond a doubt that angels _are_ feminine, of which there is no proof in
either sacred or profane history (all the illustrations I have ever seen
proving the contrary)--and I can get as close to them as I was to Señora
Margarita.
_February 22d._--Birthday of the immortal Washington. The day appointed
for sailing was fast approaching, and had to make all speed to get
through various engagements in Manilla. Having been informed that an
opera would be performed on our last evening, and opera being a special
delight, went ashore for the purpose of attending, but on arriving at
the theatre found the opera had been postponed on account of the _primo
tenore_ being afflicted with "boils." Had often known _broils_ to have
been the cause of disappointment to the lovers of "Ernani" and other
rapturous representative music, but here the _artiste_ had gotten hot
blood into him, instead of getting into hot water; and thinking of the
patient man of Uz, I sympathized with him; for, _par parenthèse_, these
eruptions of the skin are exceedingly sore in this climate, as you may
find out if you but come to the East Indies and eat mangoes.
A comedy had been substituted, called El lindo Diego, the part of which
we saw was well performed. A disagreeable feature, however, was in the
position of the prompter, who was placed in the centre of the
footlights, and kept up a continuous recitation of the play in a
monotonous tone, which greatly marred the effect.
The _Teatro Binondo_, where I saw this, is a very comfortable place,
with good accommodations, splendid box for the Governor, fine airy
saloons, and extensive verandahs. The price for admission was
moderate--sixty-two and a half cents in United States currency.
Adjourned, after witnessing a dance between the acts, with castanets,
to another place of amusement, the _Teatro Tagalo de Tonda_ (where
the performance was in the Indian tongue), which is of a less imposing
style, but where they get along very well.
After stopping here a short time, drove with Don Cæsar to his residence
in the country, about three miles; and in both going and returning were
hailed every square by a sentry, who will permit no one to pass without
a response. The watchword that night was _España_, which I was compelled
to repeat so often that I heartily wished them all _in Spain_, and felt
very much inclined to send them all thither, or to some other warm
climate, but that Don C. cautioned me not to trifle with these
punctilious privates: as on one occasion an Englishman, annoyed as I had
been, having answered the fiftieth hail disrespectfully, in his own
language, was marched off to the Calaboose, where he was detained all
night, and only released the next morning upon the payment of a heavy
fine, with the hint that the next time he insulted a Spanish soldier,
it would be better to use some language he did not understand. I,
however, got back safely to the "San Fernando," calling out continually,
_Presto_, to the cochero, and _España_, to the sentries, and turned in.
Next morning settled up accounts, and found the item for carriage hire
considerable, averaging three dollars a day! Bidding adieu to Manilla,
embarked in a banca--Manilla boat--and came on board ship.
At meridian a salute was fired in honor of the day, the smoke from which
had hardly cleared away before the anchor was tripped, and with
studding-sails set, we were standing down the bay, with a fine leading
wind. Passed the island of Corregidor, at its entrance, about sunset;
and before midnight had made some fifty miles of an offing.