Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A Mob of Women--Nora
Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive--Ferryman of
the Females--Decline the office--The Suburbs--A la Balsa--
Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight--Friend in a
fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle.
Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on shore, for a drive to
the Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road over
which we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross to reach
the romantic village of Maraquino.
Met crowds of native women coming in from that neighborhood to commence
their work at the tobacco factory. Had heard of _miles_ of girls at
Lowell, greeting with smiles the noble father of the system which gave
them employment, the honorable and the honest Henry Clay, but had never
anticipated meeting with so many of the sex, within a mile, in these
latitudes.
The crowd was so great as to materially affect our progress. We had
often to haul up to allow them to pass, and when our cochero received
the order "_ander_" it was coupled with the caution "_despacho_" that he
might drive carefully for fear of injuring some of them.
Did not count, but suppose there could not have been less than two
thousand women in this mob; but, alas! though some were young, but few
were beautiful, and, as they shuffled along, in their short jackets, and
the ungainly _sciar_ wrapped around their nether extremities, they made
a display of charms by no means attractive. Their style of dress
differing from Nora Creena's in this, that whilst her gown was
"Flowing free as mountain breezes,"
their substitute for that portion of woman's apparel appeared as if the
strongest kind of a "mountain breeze" had wrapped it tightly round their
forms, and continued to keep them enveloped in its Laocoon-like folds;
and although "_every beauty_" was not left exactly "_free_" yet there
could be no disputing the evidence of _sinking_ and _swelling_ so
sweetly described by the poet, as the peculiar charm exhibited in the
costume of his admired Nora. They were generally barefooted, and those
whose feet were clad, had them covered with that wonderful slipper,
which barely covers the extremity of the foot, and is kept in its place
by the adhesion of the smallest toe to its neighbor.
Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was the
word, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I have
ever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cool
and refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) even
as a bowling green.
A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; it
is a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at Cavitè, where we
found the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by _ropes_ (?)
made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse of
women had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjection
to their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after the
morning's rencontre.
A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot,
and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory of
Manilla cordage in the neighborhood.
Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine,
and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the
"Fabrica del Tobago," in which being disappointed, made our cochero
drive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form the
principal part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but the
houses in them are generally constructed of bamboo.
There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in a
dilapidated condition.
In the after part of the day drove again to the Calçada, where we spent
the evening passing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of place
in the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, to
enable us to pass the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty,"
the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to risk
fine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view."
After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious shower
bath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of the
beauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through our
dreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visiting
the "Rope factory," from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday.
Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was _a la Balsa_, trusting
to be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat upon
the fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselves
again disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not or
would not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, in
spite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. I
rather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until I
afterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a class _sui
generis_, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of the
Spanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of their
profession--their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they are
generally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, after
breakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "city
of Manilla," little more now than a citadel for the surrounding
population. These walls are in themselves thick and massive, and cover a
considerable space in their foundation, although the area which they
inclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the
houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs,
and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean;
but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the
only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at
the hour when the Señoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and
my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future
occasion saw it to more advantage.
I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.
_Monday, the eighteenth of February._--Returned on board from another
trip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights,
that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best
plan is to detail them, seriatim.
Left the ship on Saturday morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reaching
the hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading and
taking a bath. After dinner drove out to the Calçada, around it to the
front of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour or
more, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen such
splendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom it
operated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have by
your side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"
Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Prado
directly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"--its opening night. Paid
six reals each for admission and had our money's worth.
The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who was
himself a native of _la belle France_. The horses were "_native_" if not
to "the _manner_ born." Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. The
Frenchman had trained the _menage_, both Indians and horses, and
promised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offered
before. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped _a la
premiere lunette_--to the dress circle. In it were several very tastily
dressed and rather handsome ladies--brunettes of course. The performance
had commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progress
was that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patient
quadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propria
persona," but a poor _Mestizo_ supplied the place of one, for being so
unfortunate as to make some awkward leaps at the commencement, and
showing some concern at his failure, whenever his turn came, he was sure
to be greeted with laughter and applause. The audience had elected him
clown, nem. con.--thus proving the truth of the axiom,
"Some men have greatness thrust upon them."
To vary the scene, the manner of leaping was changed, and two men were
placed upon the beast in a reversed position, which my sentimental
friend, now becoming facetious, thought very peculiar; they were soon,
however, both sprawling in the tan amidst screams of laughter, having
been knocked off by this bungling individual.
This over, the music commenced. Such music! During the uproar an
_attaché_ of the establishment appeared all bespangled, with an
implement such as haymakers use in the happy harvest time, with which he
described eccentric circles round the ring, stepping gingerly backwards
at each swoop. At this my sentimental friend became witty, and selling
himself to Josephus Millerius Senior, inquired in a whisper if that act
might not have been set down in the bills as "The Rake's Progress." Had
no hopes for him now, but in a shaved head, low diet, and the _Water
Cure_.
The proprietor stepped gracefully forth upon the smoothed tan to
announce the grand scene--an act of riding two horses by himself, and a
young lady--her first appearance in any ring! Indeed it appeared to be
the first essay of all the performers.
With a grand flourish of the entire band, consisting of trombone, riddle
and drum, two small Manilla ponies made their _entrée_, accompanied by
attendants enough to have borne them on bodily. Señor y Señiorita
followed hand in hand, and introduced themselves, in character, with a
graceful bow, a modest curtsy, and the disengaged hand on his heart, on
the part of the gentleman as a token for both.
The lady was assisted to mount the inside pony, when the gentleman
leaped lightly upon the off one. He was at first seated, as indeed was
the female performer. At a sudden burst from the band, he started from
his seat, _a la cavalier_, and bounding into the air, alighted upon the
backs of the horses, a leg upon each. The lady was expected to have
followed this graceful action, but its effect appeared to astonish the
beasts, and the off steed, as mischievous a Mustang as ever munched at a
manger, suspicious of a design to make him carry double, commenced
curveting, and disturbed the equilibrium of the lady considerably. Then
he seemed determined upon a separation "a vinculo," and spreading out,
placed the gentleman in an awkward predicament, forcing him to make a
stride like a pair of compasses in measuring a hemisphere, and
stretching his tight and light-blue pantaloons to the very extent of
their elasticity, a quantity of chalk from the saddle, marking the part
which had come in contact with it. The disorganizing pony, after being
well flogged, was forced back into his original position by his numerous
attendants--_vi et armis_--and assisted in describing a semi-circle,
with a few deviations, when suddenly stopping at the place of entrance,
he caused the gentleman to perform an involuntary back somerset, and
saluted him with a shower of kicks in his descent. But the undaunted
Frenchman was soon upon his legs and the pony's back again, and then
commenced a combat in which all the performers joined. The horses were
whipped by the attendants, and kicked, plunged, and reared on their
part. The proprietor expostulated with his lady co-actor, whom he
threatened and coaxed in turn, but who evidently had a strong desire to
discontinue the act; and it was amusing to watch the varying expression
of his countenance, as, with frowning brow, and clenched hands, and such
a grimace as a Frenchman only can produce, he menaced the lady, and "the
passing smile his features wore," when he turned round deprecatingly to
the audience.
At last, a compromise having been effected, the horses were gotten
fairly under way, and had attained considerable headway, but broaching
to, the Señora was dismounted, and regaining her feet, made an exit with
more speed than grace, and the performance was announced--concluded. But
upon taking a peep, after the audience had retired, I saw one of the
ponies, mounted by a Manilla man, running the gauntlet of four long
whips around the ring, and felt certain his rider could not have enjoyed
much pleasure from the act, for every now and then he caught a lash
intended for the horse, and if the other naughty pony had to come in for
a like portion, expect he had another rider.