China Sea--Anchor off Macào--Canton River--Whampoa--Trip to
Canton--The San-pan--Pagodas--Lob Creek--Salt Junks--Description
of a Junk--Mandarin, or Search Boats--Pirates--Crowded state of
River at Canton--Land at Factory Stairs--Visit Vice-Consul--New
China Street--A Cow-House--Wonders of Canton--Factory Gardens--
Water Parties--Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs--Dock-yard at
Whampoa--American Missionary at Newtown--Bethel, and its Pastor
--Fourth of July--Back to Macào--The Typa--The Barrier.
The southwest monsoon wafted us quietly and quickly over the China Sea,
and upon the nineteenth of June we came to anchor off Macào, in the
outer roads. Not finding the flag-ship there, as was expected, after
taking in some provisions from the naval depôt, weighed anchor, and
proceeded up the Canton River to Whampoa, where we moored ship in the
"American Reach" to undergo necessary repairs. Whilst these were going
on, I procured a "fast boat," and went up to Canton, about nine miles
above that part of the "Reach" in which we lay.
These boats--the "San-pan," or boat of this country--are used expressly
for the conveyance of passengers and their effects, and are kept
scrupulously clean for that purpose. They pull from three to six oars,
according to their size. The oarsmen are all seated forwards, whilst a
woman, generally with a child fastened to her back, both propels and
steers with a long oar from the stern, which she manages with great
dexterity, appearing to work harder, and with better effect, than her
lazy lord, (who has generally the bow oar,) at the same time keeping a
bright lookout ahead, and giving warning in her guttural chant of any
obstruction.
Passed two Pagodas, each of nine stories, and made a romantic cut-off,
via Lob Creek. Soon we came upon a large number of junks at anchor, with
huge manilla cables,--one of which our interpreter pointed out as "Salt
Junk." We had seen enough of that during our passage out, but this kind
of junk interested us; for a more clumsy piece of naval architecture
could hardly have been invented to annoy the eye of a sailor. With her
perpendicular masts of one stick, no bowsprit, only an opening where it
should be, to receive an anchor, made of part of a crooked tree; poop
sticking up like a game fowl's tail, and immense red and white eyes
painted on each bow:--for the Chinese sailor says: "No have eyes, how
can see? no can see, how can walkee?"--make such a picture of a thing to
float in, and wherewith to transport worldly effects, that the question
naturally arises, What would be the probable per centage a Chinese
underwriter would demand as premium to insure in such a bottom? Indeed,
I must do the memory of the patriarch Noah the justice to believe, that
his craft was put together with a better adaptation to the principles of
flotation than this, or it would never have lived through that gale of
forty days and forty nights, logged in the Good Book.
Soon, however, we came across some better-looking specimens, which we
were told were the "Mandarin," or "Search Boats," belonging to the
Chinese Customs. Their models appeared better adapted to "make walkee,"
and, in addition to sails, they had double banks of oars.
At what I took to be the Navy Yard, saw some English hulls, which had
been built upon, and which, in spite of all this eccentric people
could do to change their appearance, still looked ship-shaped. There
were also some sharp-looking junks being built, which I was told were
to be fitted out against the pirates; but, if what I afterwards
learned be true, they were more likely to become piratical craft
themselves; for it was reported that the person to whose charge they
were to have been consigned had been extensively engaged in that
business himself, until he was interfered with by the English, who
broke up his fleet; and that now he had humbugged the Chinese
government into giving him another. At least, so ran the rumor.
As we approached the Factories, it seemed almost impossible to make our
way through the immense number of boats and other craft which appeared
to play hide-and-seek amongst the larger junks moored in every direction
in the stream; but, thanks to the skill of our female pilot, we avoided
all collision, and brought up safely at the Factory stairs. It was
excessively hot; and as we walked across the Factory Gardens to the
Consulate, the effects of the sun upon the clean glossy walks was
painful to the eyes.
After paying our respects to the Vice-Consul, took a short turn up New
China Street to make a few necessary purchases, and then threaded our
way back to Acow's Hotel,--facetiously termed by one of the party who
had the remembrances of dainty spreads at the "Astor" and "Irving House"
in his mind, "a cow house!"
Here we had "tiffin,"--Anglice, lunch,--and then disposed ourselves as
well as we could for comfort and cool air, neither of which did we
obtain; nor what our parched throats so loudly called for,--cool water.
Acow had no ice; so our only recourse was to procure bottles of "aerated
water,"--we called it "Pop," in our ignorance, and to send them where
truth is said to reside,--the bottom of a well.
As the sun declined, walked out to view the wonders of Canton; and
although it was Sunday, found the streets thronged with coolies carrying
heavy burdens of merchandise, slung on bamboos resting on their
shoulders, plying backwards and forwards on their different errands, in
a jog trot, with a loud grunt;--the grunt as much to relieve them, as to
give warning to those in their way. Passed through different streets in
the neighborhood of the Factories, all composed of shops, from which
long-tailed Chinamen rushed out, chinchinning, and soliciting our
custom. These streets have a great similarity, and a description of one
would answer for all. With the exception of some that are devoted to the
sale of particular articles, as the Street of Tailors, and Curiosity
Street, they differ only in the appearance of the article exposed for
sale. They are quite narrow and used only by pedestrians. The only
quadruped I recollect seeing in them was a diminutive jackass, standing
before a shop in "Old China Street." How he came there, or for what
purpose, I could not determine. It may have been out of compliment to
the "Foreign Devils," that his long ears were exhibited; but if his
position was illusive, in one relation it failed; for, despite these
appendages, the beast _did not enter_ the shop.
The gardens I found the most attractive. They are in front of the
different factories, and over them floats the flag of the nation,
opposite its respective consulate. They cover several acres, and are
well laid out, planted with every variety of tree and shrub, and are
kept in admirable order. Formerly, I understood, there had been a
partition wall between the English and American portions, but this had
lately been removed, as I hope may be all causes of division between the
two governments.
Towards evening these gardens are frequented by nearly all of the
European population, who stroll about to enjoy the breezes from the
water after the heat of the day.
A number of Parsees are daily to be seen, with their long, white, and
scrupulously clean linen surtouts, turbans, or else bugshaped caps, wide
trousers, just appearing beneath their white coats (an improvement on
the Bloomer costume, I thought), and shoes pointed at the toes with
pieces of some kind of metal, turned up, after the fashion of what the
boys call "high dutch" in skates, at home.
Witnessed the worship of one of this strange sect, and his devotions to
his fire god in his setting, appeared as sincere, at least, as those of
many, who consider themselves more favored in being able to look
"through nature, up to nature's God."
A Fanqui, or foreigner, finds himself much circumscribed in his
peregrinations about Canton. With the few narrow streets above
mentioned, and the open space in front of the factories, he must fain
be content; but upon the water his way is more open, and the European
and American residents avail themselves of the broad river to launch
and sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats,
san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury.
In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of the
sun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars and
conversation.
Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests are
almost continually engaged in "chin chinnings," and where are kept some
holy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I should
think of holding sacred.
There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of a
visit, but these I had no opportunity to see.
After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the
ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head
of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the
Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was
at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not
misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every
thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr.
C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.
Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most
convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels
were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and
departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.
The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact
with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is
true, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of being
hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.
Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old
town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of
these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops,
all the "same same," as in Canton.
Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident
at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making
arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his
vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged
with several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he was
exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It
was a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying to
unpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remained
mysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, illustrated by
a ship rising above the horizon--the sidereal system, and the eclipses
of the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being very
dense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, for
they have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder god," and other deities
similar to those worshipped by the more classical heathen of Rome and
Greece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, but
finds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so strongly
implanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I should
have earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, and
appears to convey his ideas with much fluency.
There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel," anchored in the
"Reach," which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I had
the pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "And
by one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin." In the course
of his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deaths
of those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news of
which had just reached us by mail.
Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters and
seamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. cannot doubt
but that he will have great success with this class of men.
The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to public
worship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirable
adaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besides
apartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number of
foreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roof
was flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed a
fine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have been
planned ashore, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortable
quarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance of
many an hour passed pleasantly.
The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay in
Whampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags,
and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to the
officers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach," which
passed off very pleasantly. The usual quantity of champagne and
patriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generally
conceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face of
the globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people.
Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill down
the river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantage
of the tide, got into the bay and headed for Macào. Found the flagship
at anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating with
the Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there.
The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from an
island which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and a
half fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very large
vessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen have
gone in. They are now forced, if stopping at Macào, to anchor outside,
abreast the town, and some four or five miles off.
Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of a
cut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to Macào.
The city of Macào, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, from
the name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon by
the Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island of
Heang-Shan.
After the discovery of the passage to the East Indies around the Cape of
Good Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, the
Portuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by the
Chinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained a
foothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, and
commenced the foundation of a city.
About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with Japan,
China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre of
an extensive trade, which increased until Macào grew into a place of
considerable importance.
The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to the
Portuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed many
restrictions upon them. The point upon which Macào stands, is almost
separated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of about
three hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, a
wall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers,
and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pass; and their
municipal government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed there
in 1573.
When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wall
thrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more _barriers_
than this, previous to his murder--of which, anon.