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KATHAY:
A
CRUISE IN THE CHINA SEAS.
BY
W. HASTINGS MACAULAY.
"Coelum, non animum, mutant,
Qui trans mare currunt."
NEW-YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM & CO., 10 PARK PLACE.
M.DCCC.LII.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852,
by G. P. PUTNAM & COMPANY,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the
Southern District of New-York.
JOHN F. TROW, PRINTER,
49 Ann-Street.
Dedication
TO
MRS. JANE G. SPROSTON, BALTIMORE.
ESTEEMED AND RESPECTED MADAM:
I have presumed to address this work to you, more to prove the truth of
its motto, than from any hope that it may be intrinsically worthy of
your acceptance.
Connected with a noble profession by ties at once sad and dear, I have
considered that a narration of events seen in its service--however
unworthily set down, might not be uninteresting to you; and feeling
assured that your prayers and kind wishes have followed us through
"changing skies," as we have sped across "distant seas,"--upon our safe
return, I am truly happy in being able to imitate the custom of mariners
of more sunny climes, and to place this offering of affection upon the
altar of Gratitude.
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
Set Sail--Sea-sickness--Get a good offing--Sail ho!--Islets
of St. Paul--Shipwreck there--Sufferings--Crossing the
Line--Fernando Noronha--Fire--Remarkable peak--Arrival
at Rio--Disappointment--Beauties of the harbor--Ashore at
last--Village of San Domingo--Flying trip to city--Yellow
fever--All hands up anchor--Sugarloaf Mountain--Off for
the Cape 9
CHAPTER II.
Telling Tales out of School--Double the Cape--The Flying
Dutchman--Albatross and Cape pigeons--Catching the
albatross--The man who ate the albatross--Superstition
of sailors--Man overboard--Lying to--Accident--Death--
The sailor's grave 20
CHAPTER III.
Island of St. Paul--Steering for Java Head--Land ho!--
Christmas Island--Straits of Sunda--A Beautiful Scene--
Sentimental Simile--Come to anchor--Anger Point--Village
of Anger--On shore in Java--Perfume of the East--Banyan
tree--The governor and Dutch hotel keeper--Welcome at
an inn--Attack on Anger Fort--Dutch officers' prowess,
and French!--The Javanese--Chinaman--Mosque--Mahomet--
Bazaar--Watering place 26
CHAPTER IV.
China Sea--Anchor off Macào--Canton River--Whampoa--Trip
to Canton--The San-pan--Pagodas--Lob Creek--Salt junks--
Description of a Junk--Mandarin, or search boats--Pirates--
Crowded state of River at Canton--Land at Factory Stairs--
Visit Vice-Consul--New China Street--A Cow-House--Wonders
of Canton--Factory gardens--Water parties--Buddhist temples,
and holy pigs--Dock-yard at Whampoa--American missionary at
Newtown--Bethel, and its pastor--Fourth of July--Back to
Macào--The Typa--The Barrier 33
CHAPTER V.
Passage ashore--A-ti--The Praya--Forts--Governor's Road--
Description of Macào--Murder of Amaral--Manoeuvring of Seu
and his triumph--A new Governor--His death--Council of
Government--View from Guia Fort--Marques's garden--Camoen's
grotto--Epitaph and doggerel written there--A beautiful
spot--Stealing fire from the gods--Fate of Prometheus 44
CHAPTER VI.
Up the Canton River again--Bay of Canton--Bocca Tigris--
Forts at the Bogue--Their construction--Conduct of Chinese
when attacked--The Feast of Lanterns--The Rebellion--Paddy
fields and mosquitoes--Back to Typa--Pleasant times--Blowing
up of a frigate! 54
CHAPTER VII.
Visit Hong-Kong--A beautiful morning--Harbor of Hong-Kong
--Settlement of Victoria--Line-of-battle ship Hastings--
Forecastle logic--An arrival from the Northern Seas--Her
B. M. S. Herald--Salutes--Description of Victoria--Club
House--Health of Hong-Kong--Death vacancies--Feasting and
fêtes--Ball--Pic-Nic--Departure from Hong-Kong 63
CHAPTER VIII.
China--Limited opportunities--The Chinese nation compared
with others--Its antiquity--Magnitude of territory and
practicability of laws--Supposed origin of the Chinese
--Fables of their early writers--Explanation of their
exaggerations--Foundation of the Empire--Chinese traditions
compared with sacred history--Similarity of events--Wise men
of the East--Introduction of Buddhism--Arts and sciences--
The magnetic Needle--Discovery of Gunpowder--Origin of the
name--China--Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin--Parallel between
him and Napoleon--Religion--Confucius--The Taouists--
Buddhism--A Buddhist's idea of Heaven 70
CHAPTER IX.
Christmas and the New Year in Macào--Removal of remains of
Da Cunha--The dead give place to the quick--Chinese manner
of fishing--A new principle in hydraulics--Inspection of
Macào Militia--An ancient cemetery--Arrival of the new
Governor, Cardoza--Underway for Manilla--Fetch up at
Hong-Kong--Another start--Island of Luconia--Bay of
Manilla--Earthquake--Discovery and settlement of the
Philippines--Description of Manilla--The Calzada--A
puppet-show 81
CHAPTER X.
Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A mob of women
--Nora Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive
--Ferryman of the females--Decline the office--The suburbs
--A la Balsa--Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight
--Friend in a fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle 90
CHAPTER XI.
An early drive--Visit to Churches--The Cathedral--
Description--Reflections--Church of the Binondo Quarter
--The dead child--Baptism--Life's entrances and exit--
Ceremony of taking the veil--Poor Maraquita--An episode
--Don Cæsar de Bazan--Interior of the convent--Interview
with the Lady Superior--Interchange of compliments--
Spanish courtesy--An admission 99
CHAPTER XII.
Fabrico del Tobago--Manufacture of the cheroot--
Description of the process--Female operatives--Gigantic
effects--Midshipman attacked--A delightful Evening--Boat
ahoy--Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay--Funcion
Familia--Madame Theodore--The Calçada again--Margarita
--Teatro Binondo--Teatro Tagalo de Tondo--Espana--Anecdote
of an Englishman--Farewell to Manilla--Out to Sea 105
CHAPTER XIII.
Anchor in harbor of Hong-Kong--Hastings and Herald both
off--Advantage of newspapers--A first-rate notice--The
Press of Victoria--The Friend of China--Its pugnacity--
Advertising sheets--Description of Island--Rain--
Character of Chinese inhabitants 114
CHAPTER XIV.
Hong-Kong--Object of its settlement--Its service as an
opium dépôt--Views of the opium trade--Its history--
Considered the cause and object of the war--Treaty of
Nankin--Opium trade fixed on China 121
CHAPTER XV.
Trip to Macào--Disappointed in getting ashore--Mail
arrived--Get no letters--Expression of sentiments--Causes
and effects--Overland mail--Idea of a route--Happy Valley
--Chase of Pirates--_A Poisson d'Avril_--Into the Typa
again--Arrival of consort--Late dates--Catholic fête--
Depart for Shanghae--The Yang-tse-Kiang--Improvement in
the appearance of the country--Better race of men--Banks
of the Woo-sung 127
CHAPTER XVI.
Shanghae--Immense number of junks--Foreign residences--
Novelty of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of beggars--
Undertakers--Price of coffins--Decline trading--
Description of city--Stagnant pools--Tea gardens--Sweet
site--The Taoutae--Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--
Ship ashore!--Sensation 135
CHAPTER XVII.
Amoy--Its trade--Cause of decay--Infanticide--Manner of
destroying female infants--China woman's confession--
Environs--British and American cemeteries--The fatal
rock--Koo-lung-Seu--Chinese gunnery--Chinese Customs--
Marriage--Death--Manner of mourning--Pagoda of
Nan-tae-Woo-Shan 142
CHAPTER XVIII.
Formosa--Description of the island--Its productions--Coal
mines--Metals--The Dutch possessions--Their expulsion--
Proper policy of civilized powers 148
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Amoy--Arrive in Macào Roads--Live ashore--Well
guarded--Night calls--Ventriloquist at Typa Fort--
Ordered on board--Up to Whampoa--Clipper Ships--Over
to Hong-Kong--Coronation day--Independence day--
Hurried on board--The mail--Ty-foongs 154
CHAPTER XX.
Ty-foong passed--Pleasant season--Theatrical exhibition
--The Macàense--Philharmonic Society--Italian Opera--
Awaiting orders for home--Thoughts of home and friends
--Idea suggested by the setting sun--Poetry--Maladie de
Pays--Its effects upon the Swiss--A remedy--My own
experience, and manner of Cure 161
CHAPTER XXI.
Haul up all standing--Boat races--Interest in the sport--
Excitement general--Arrangements--Jockeyism--Regatta--
Preparations--The start--The race--The result--Launch and
first cutter--Race described con-amore--Suggestion of an
old salt--Satan and sailors 166
CHAPTER XXII.
Effects of the race--Suppers and their effects--The stuff
that dreams are made of--A scrape in the Typa--Again at
Whampoa 172
CHAPTER XXIII.
Anson's Bay--Hong-Kong again--P. & O. Company's hulk takes
fire--Escape of captain's wife--Toong-Koo Bay--Piracy--
Fire at Macào--Wolf again at Whampoa--Amateur theatricals
at Canton--Melancholy musings 177
CHAPTER XXIV.
Commodore arrives at last--Preparations for a start--Delay
--Washington's Birthday--The clipper Challenge--Prisoners
from her--Homeward bound!--Reflections on leaving--Case of
small-pox--Second visit to Anger 184
CHAPTER XXV.
No mosquitoes at Anger--The land of the East--A sketch--
Advantages of Anger--Dolce-far-niente--Island of Java--
Batavia--Bantam--Comparison between Anger and Singapore 189
CHAPTER XXVI.
Pass through Sunda Strait--H. B. M. S. Rattler--Catch the
trades--A learned opinion on diaries--Extracts from diary
--Isle of France--Its romance--Bourbon--Mauritius--Cape
of Good Hope--Description--Trouble in getting in--Table
Bay and Mountain 194
CHAPTER XXVII.
Land at Cape Town--Hotels and widows--Drive to Constantia
--Description of drive--Price of wine--Manumission of
slaves--Seasons at the Cape--The town through a microscope,
&c. &c. 200
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Settlement of Cape Town--Its productions--The Kaffir war--
Latest dispatches--Cause of the rebellion--Description of
the Kaffir by the traveller--Opinion of him by the resident
--Authority of prominent men--Observatory, &c. 208
CHAPTER XXIX.
A death on board--Our freight--Extracts from diary--St.
Helena and Napoleon--The trades--Poetical idea of a
starry telegraph--Good sailing 217
CHAPTER XXX.
Classic ground--Hispaniola--Romance of the western waters
--Extracts from diary--On a wind--Newsboats wanted--The
Bermudas--Target practice 222
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Gulf Stream--Darby's theory--Its ingenuity--The coasts
of America--John Cabot, the Venetian--"_Terra primum
visa_"--Completion of cruise--Conclusion 226
KATHAY.
CHAPTER I.
Set Sail--Sea-sickness--Get a good offing--Sail ho!--Islets
of St. Paul--Shipwreck there--Sufferings--Crossing the
Line--Fernando Noronha--Fire--Remarkable peak--Arrival at
Rio--Disappointment--Beauties of the harbor--Ashore at
last--Village of San Domingo--Flying trip to city--Yellow
fever--All hands up anchor--Sugarloaf Mountain--Off for the
Cape.
Immediately after noon, upon the 29th day of January, 1850, we east off
from the wharf at the Navy Yard in Charlestown, Massachusetts, and with
the pilot on board, proceeded to sea. But little time was allowed to
send our adieus, for he soon left us, bearing with him some hasty
scrawls, to the illegibility of one of which a very good friend of the
writer can testify. Our commander was very anxious to commence his
cruise, and having been delayed nearly one month for officers, put off
upon it as soon as the last gentleman had reported.
That bugbear to all landsmen,--sea-sickness,--gave me but little
annoyance, although some of the crew appeared to suffer greatly from its
effects.
Having a favorable wind we soon made a good offing, a very desirable
thing at that season of the year, and indeed one which no sailor objects
to on any coast, when outward bound; a fresh, favoring breeze and plenty
of sea room being his most fervent prayer.
Our first destination was Rio, and towards it we bent our course. A few
days out, and the novelty of our situation having worn off, pleasing
remembrances of persons, localities, and particular events which had
occurred during our sojourn in Boston, became less frequent, and pretty
allusions to "again standing upon the deck," poetical petitions to the
dark blue Ocean, praying it, in the language of Byron, to "roll on,"
gradually gave way to growlings, when old _Neptune_, as if in answer,
drove his chariot over its surface, and working its waters into a yeasty
foam, disturbed, at the same time, both our equilibrium and equanimity.
But little occurred to destroy the usual monotony of a sea voyage. At
long intervals "_sail ho_!" would be called out by the lookout on the
foretopsail yard, and after a time our eyes would be greeted from the
deck with the sight of another white-winged wanderer like ourself,
steering for his distant port. Then would come conjecture as to whither
he might be bound, and sailor-like reflections upon his rig, qualities
of sailing, and the judgment of the skipper in the selection of his
course.
Our reckoning, and the change of temperature both of air and water,
soon announced that we were approaching that equatorial divider of our
globe, called "_the Line_," and in about one degree of latitude above
it (1° 16' N.) we made the islets of Saint Paul, a barren pile of
rocks of about one mile and a half in length, and of inconsiderable
breadth, standing solitarily and desolately here in mid ocean. Made
their longitude by the mean of three chronometers; observation 29° 19'
57'' west; about one degree different from the longitude in which they
were laid down in our chart; an error which should be corrected.
It was here that a few years ago a Dutch East Indiaman was wrecked, and
of nearly two hundred souls but three or four were saved, and these were
taken off after remaining upon the rocks some twelve days, without
nourishment and exposed to all the horrors of starvation. Worse yet than
that, deprived of shelter from a vertical sun, without water to restore
the fluids which his fierce rays extracted from their parching bodies.
An immense number of birds were flying over and around these jagged
peaks, and who knows how greatly these may have added to the torture of
the shipwrecked crew, when failing nature denied the power to protect
themselves.
"Ah who can tell
The looks men cast on famished men;
The thoughts that came up there."
In the morning watch of the twenty-sixth of February, we "crossed the
line" in longitude 29° 56' 50'' west, with such light breezes, that at
meridian we had logged but 30' south. We escaped the usual visit of old
_Neptune_ upon entering the threshold of his dominions,--and as it was
early morning, suppose the "Old Salt" was calmly reposing in the arms
of _Amphitrite_. Seriously, I consider this custom of performing
practical jokes in the character of Neptune, as "one more honored in the
breach than the observance," and that no officer should endanger the
discipline of his ship by allowing such unmannerly pranks as we read of
having been performed, and where the initiated have paid the penalty
with broken bones, sometimes with life.
At 5. 45. A. M. of the same day, the island of Fernando Noronha was made
from the mast head, and as it gradually loomed to the vision, from the
deck, its remarkable peak began to assume various shapes, mostly
resolving themselves into the semblance of a high tower. It is on the
north side of the island, and is called "the Pyramid;" is said to
elevate its rocky proportions from the midst of a beautiful grove to the
height of about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. Near its
summit there is a station, from which a lookout can have supervision
over the entire island, and the sea for many leagues on every point
surrounding it.
The island of Fernando Noronha we found in latitude 3° 51' 04'' south,
and longitude 32° 27' 15'' west. It was at one time much resorted to by
whalers for provisions and water, although the scarcity of the latter at
certain seasons, does not render it at all times desirable for this
purpose. It is about seven miles long, and from two to three in breadth.
Noronha was at one time used by the Brazilian government as a place of
transportation for criminals, principally those exiled for treason, and
offenders against the state, and is said to contain some beautiful
scenery; also to produce magnificent fruit. But we were not to linger
there, and soon its peak, becoming more and more indistinct, sinking
slowly, lost its proportions beneath the horizon.
The first day of what would have been called spring in our own beautiful
land, was ushered in by an alarm of fire. The officers and the different
messes were nearly all at breakfast when the signal for such an accident
was given, and were not slow in obeying its summons; in less than a
minute every one was at his station, when the smoke was discovered
issuing from the galley funnel forward, into which a lazy cook, whose
duty it was to have it properly cleaned every morning, had inserted some
straw for the purpose of performing his duty more expeditiously and
effectually; and indeed he had nearly succeeded in getting rid of it
altogether, had it not been for the promptness of a forecastle man, who
seizing a bucket of water, opportunely standing near him on the
topgallant forecastle, dashed it down the funnel, preventing the flames
from communicating with the foresail, and thus probably saved the ship.
Of all the numerous accidents to which a man-of-war is so peculiarly
liable, that of destruction by fire is most likely to occur, and
requires the strictest discipline to guard against; for this are
established certain hours for smoking, and a stated period at night for
the extinguishing of all lights; so that after ten o'clock the peopled
ship speeds on her way, over the dark bosom of the heaving billows, with
only the light in the binnacle to show her course upon the illuminated
card, and the well-secured lamp in the cabin, by which her commander,
anxious and unsleeping, traces her track along the corrected chart.
Upon the tenth day of March, Sunday, at seven bells in the last dog
watch, we came to anchor in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, off the town
known generally by the name of the river, but originally called San
Sebastian. After forty days at sea, the exact time made by the first
voyageur, Noah, we were as anxious as he might be supposed to have been,
to escape from his menagerie; for take it as you will, you will find
Emerson's "Experience" to agree with yours in this respect, however you
may differ from him in others, when he states in his essay with that
title (which essay, par parenthesis, I was compelled to swallow in
hospital for want of better mental aliment), that, "Every ship is a
romantic object, except the one you sail in,--embark, and the romance
quits your vessel, and hangs on every other sail in the horizon."
After, as I have said, this period of probation, in a vessel crowded
almost to the extent of Noah's, and whose crew bore some resemblance to
his, if one might judge from the _growls_ on board--the prospect of a
trip to the shore, fresh provender and iced drinks was delicious,
especially as the Hotel of Pharoux had been so repeatedly extolled
during the passage as a horn of plenty, abounding in delicacies, and our
mouths had been so often made to water upon many a "banyan day," by the
luscious descriptions of those who had on former occasions the happiness
to have indulged therein. But alas! for human hopes and expectations;
"L'homme propose, et Dieu dispose!"
For early on the next morning, after getting out the boats, and making
other preparations for a visit to Rio, an order came from our commodore
on that station, forbidding us to land, or to hold communication with
the shore, on account of the prevalence of the yellow fever, then
epidemic there. So here we lay, only a few cables' length from the Ilha
da Cobras, with all the tropical plants and fruit almost within reach,
and tantalizing us with their perfume,--the domes, palaces and public
buildings of a gay capital (unvisited by many), rising picturesquely
before us, and yet forbidden. We thought of Tantalus, and his fate, of
Prometheus and the rock--of--of Adam and his expulsion, and must own
that in our first feelings of disappointment, we made but a partial
excuse for our primal progenitor, and great great grandmother, as we
repeated those expressive lines of the poet, so early engraved upon our
memory--
"In Adam's fall
We sinnéd all."
But trying as was our situation, we were in a measure compensated for
our disappointment by the beauty of this unrivalled harbor; and to
describe it fully, I must be allowed to revert to the period when the
coast of Brazil was first made, with its bold outlines developing new
beauties as we approached. Indications of land had been noticed early in
the morning of the day of our arrival, and shortly the numerous mountain
peaks for which this coast is celebrated, filled the horizon before us
like a line of dark clouds. As the distance was diminished, peak after
peak stood out in bold relief against the blue sky, and we were soon
enabled to make out the False Sugarloaf, Corcovado, Lord Hood's Nose,
and The Tops--so called by sailors, from their resemblance to those
parts of a ship. The light breeze, under which we carried
studding-sails, and all the canvas that would draw, gradually wafted us
towards the mouth of the river, yet so gently did we glide along that
not one feature of the scene was lost; but it was not until we had
passed the islands that screen its front, that its full magnificence was
developed, and then, as by the drawing aside of a curtain, the harbor of
Rio de Janeiro was displayed,--a magnificent basin surrounded by
innumerable hills, which were dotted with beautiful villas.
Under a spanking breeze, which suddenly sprung up, we dashed on nearly
to the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, and then stood over boldly to the
fort Santa Cruz, from which we were hailed, and as the short twilight
had given way to deeper shadows, were signalized by blue lights,
continued by an opposite fortification, until they were noticed at the
station on Signal Hill behind the city. Onward we sped, through a fleet
of vessels, our craft threading her way, "like a thing of life," obeying
the master's steady commands, creating no little sensation, as she
darted amongst them, inclining to the right or left, or pressing boldly,
straight ahead, to the repeated orders of "starboard," "port," or
"steady there, so," and causing the different craft to run up their
signal lights quite hastily. "Stand by," "let go the anchor," and there
she lay as if taking rest after a long journey.
On viewing the scene from the deck by the early light of the next
morning's dawn, I could compare it with nothing but the painting
displayed in a theatre, and the quiet that reigned in that still hour,
added greatly to the effect. The background of mountains piercing the
clouds; the foreground being formed by the town itself with its houses
of various hues, and picturesque styles of architecture, ascending the
mountain's side, and villas, and country seats aiding the perspective,
whilst the island of Cobras served as a side scene.
Around us stretched for leagues this splendid harbor, upon whose broad
bosom lay vessels of every nation (and which appeared capable of bearing
the fleets of the world), fringed by hills whose verdure seemed undying,
over which were spread the beautiful trees of a tropical clime.
An opportunity at last occurred of setting foot upon terra firma once
more, which was as gladly embraced--permission having been granted to
visit the shore opposite to Rio, where is the village of San Domingo and
the Praya Grande; with several officers we were pulled in the second
cutter to intercept one of those graceful lateen rigged boats, called
"felloas," which are seen in such numbers flitting in every direction
over these beautiful waters. As soon as we were landed at the village,
there ensued an amusing scene in paying for our passage. The sum of two
"dumps" (about four cents in the currency of the United States), each,
being demanded, we placed our quotas as nearly as we could make them, in
the hands of one of the party, who acted as spokesman, who tendered the
commandante of the felloa one of our silver coins, much greater in
value than the aggregate sum of our passage money,--which was
indignantly refused by the tawny Brazilian, who was immediately assailed
by each member of the party who had any pretensions to language other
than his own; from which babel we were but too happy to escape,
learning, however, when we were overtaken by the linguists, that they
had fairly talked "the old fellow" down, and compelled him to take more
money than (even allowing for difference of currency) he had demanded.
To a person who has never visited tropical countries, a landing upon
this part of the Empire of Brazil, must be productive of much pleasure.
At times, it is true, the heat is oppressive, but then the delightful
sea-breeze setting in at regular hours, amply compensates for the
inconvenience of the "terrales," the term applied to the wind which
blows off the land.
We wished much to have enjoyed the society of the opposite city, but the
fell destroyer held his revels there, and we could only manage a stolen
visit to it by night in one of the swift felloas from Praya Grande,
having to make a hasty flight on board ship early the next
morning--gaining but little information by our trip, excepting the
assurance that those who had promised so fairly for Mons. Pharoux were
indeed true prophets.
The call of "all hands up anchor," awakened us on the morning of the
18th of March, and before all hands were on deck, we were being towed
out of the harbor by one of the small steamers, to undertake the longest
part of our cruise. The view was then as fine as could be imagined; we
were near the outlet, but Corcovado, Sugarloaf, The Forts, and town
were all in sight, and we had but to turn our eyes from one magnificent
sight, to have them greeted by another. I was much struck by the
appearance of Sugarloaf Mountain as we passed; it is of great height,
and the reader will readily understand the peculiarity which gives its
name. At the time a cloud encircled its brow, within a short distance of
the summit, yet leaving its peak plainly visible, as if a wreath had
been cast over it, and had rested in that position. But soon Rio, and
its beauties had faded in the distance, and we were steering our lonely
course for the Cape.