[Illustration: JEWEL DESIGN NO. 50.]
_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins each 113,
114, 809, 810, 811; 3 skeins each 752.9, 753; 2 skeins each 700,
701, 786, 787, 788; 1 skein each 646, 650, 656, 812. Corticelli
Persian Floss, 4 skeins 786. Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk,
8 skeins 809.
_Materials_--9 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each of
above shades. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 786; Corticelli EE
Twisted Embroidery Silk, 2 skeins 809. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.
Jewel embroidery is more than ever popular, and deservedly so, not only
on account of the scope it gives for daintiness of design, but more
especially because of the splendid possibilities in the arrangement
of color. Of course one is not slavishly tied to copying the exact
color of any particular gem; the decorator's license is available here
just the same as in reproducing flowers, an artistic and harmonious
scheme of color must be the first consideration. Unless the jewels be
of unusual size it is better to work each individual gem in one shade,
varying the tone if repeated in the same group. It must be remembered
that embroidery, like any textile fabric, to a great extent shades
itself, especially when the surface is glossy. In this style of design
it is well to introduce as great a variety of coloring as possible,
avoiding however very violent contrasts.
[Illustration: JEWEL EMBROIDERY. FILLING AND COVERING.]
We suggest a scheme that will be found to work beautifully, but many
others might be thought out with equally good results. It should be
observed, however, that in formulating a scheme all the colors employed
should be chosen in about the same tone to avoid the spottiness so
often found in amateur work; the very best designs can easily be
spoiled through inattention to this rule. The task of following exactly
the directions given is rendered easy by means of the numbers on the
labels attached to each skein of Corticelli Silk and by reference to
Colored Plate XXIII.
The work is solid throughout except where the scallops are filled in
beneath the scrolls with crossed bars; these are laid in place from
side to side, and caught down at each intersection. The jewels are put
in with satin stitch. (See article on Stitches.) They should be raised
a little by filling. This can be done in two ways, either by filling
one way in satin stitch and crossing the filling in the opposite
direction in finishing (see engraving), or by working a circle in stem
stitch and following the circle inside until quite filled in, then
covering with satin stitch. When covering the filling, always start
in the center and work out each way. It will then be found easy to
preserve the form. It is hardly worth while to use a different kind
of silk for the filling; it is poor economy and saves very little
after all, while the additional fastenings off are liable to make the
work lumpy. The jewels are more pronounced if outlined, but this is
optional. If outlined, a rich Burnt Sienna shade, such as No. 646, will
be very effective and not at all heavy. The jewels should be worked
with Corticelli Filo Silk.
For the four sections composed of scrolls, and for the scallop exactly
beneath them, choose three delicate shades of Apricot, 809, 810, 811.
Use the lightest in Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk for the scallop, and
shade the scrolls with the three tones in Filo Silk. Put in the crossed
bars with Green Filo Silk, 752.9, and catch them down with 753. The
outside scrolls are also worked with 752.9. The small scrolls at the
apex and on either side, also the upper bars in stem stitch, are of a
golden hue, for which take 113, 114. The large central jewel and those
heading the golden bars, are green. Use 700 for the large one and 701
for the small ones; those on either side on the bars are Violet, 650;
the three below and one above the large center jewel are also worked
with 650; the remaining single gems on either side of the center are
Red, 656. See Colored Plate XXIII.
[Illustration: CORTICELLI JEWEL DESIGN NO. 50.