Marblehead, with all its romance of ancient days, is only about sixteen

miles from Boston as the automobile flies, but you pass a good many

sweet things first. We went through Somerville, got lost there, and were

guided in every direction but the right one by a plague of boys not much

bigger than the "dimes" they didn't earn. Jack simply won't look at maps

when in the car, or inquire; expects to find his way by instinct, and

somehow generally _does_. (Are _all_ men like that?) Crossed the Mystic

River, and got on to the velvet surface of the Revere Beach Parkway. But

Chelsea came before the Beach: charming old Chelsea, which probably, in

its heart, thinks Boston its suburb, and prides itself on almost a

century and a half of aristocratic peace since the old fighting days

when Israel Putnam won his commission as Major-General there.

There couldn't be a greater contrast than between Chelsea and Revere

Beach. It's a good thing that miles of parklike road--fought over once

by Independents and British--lie between, or they could never stand each

other, those two! Jack and I ought to have come to Revere Beach when we

were little boy and girl, for, oh, the joy of it for children! What

price the Dragon Gorge, the mountain railway more like the Alps than the

Alps are like themselves, the theatres, the shops of every kind, the

cottages which are nests for birds rather than commonplace, human

habitations?

Opposite, Nahant sat looking delightful and alluring, but we went on to

Lynn--Lynn, unattractive at first, and pretty when we got better

acquainted, like some of the nicest women I know. It's a great place now

for shoes, and was once a great place for pilgrims. What a pity the

former are too late for the latter! The Pilgrims must have needed the

shoes badly. They could have walked along the Old Pilgrim Road to

Swampscott if their feet were equal to it. And perhaps they forgot their

feet, as I forgot Aunt Mary, for it is--and must then have been--a

lovely road.

Hawthorne used to walk to Swampscott, too, as well as to Marblehead, but

he came the other way, from Salem. Do you remember Swampscott was where

he found pink and white Susan, who gave him the sugar heart? That was

pink, too, with a touch of white perhaps. She sounds so delightful as

the "Mermaid!" I'm glad Hawthorne kept the heart for years, and then

instead of throwing it away ate it--gave it honourable burial, so to

speak--which shows that you _can_ have your heart and eat it, too! (I

must, by the by, make a parable of this for Pat, who is eating hers,

though she certainly has _not_ got it. She has given it to some one

else, though I fancy she _thinks_ she has merely mislaid it.) In apropos

of hearts, they make dories in Swampscott; and it's _not_ swampy one

bit!

Of course I quoted Whittier's "Skipper Ireson's Ride" to Jack, coming

toward Marblehead. It was "up to me" to show my British husband that I,

too, had learned things at people's knees.

_"Old Flood Ireson for his hard heart,

Tarred and feathered, and carried in a cart

By the women of Marblehead."_

I wasn't certain I got it just right, but did my best to put a confident

ring into my voice, which is half the battle when you're not sure of

yourself. What a blow, therefore, to be told that in truth and in deed

the women of Marblehead had nothing to do with the job! Jack says the

_men_ did it. And worse still, Captain Ireson was supposed to have been

a victim rather than a villain, because his sailors mutinied and refused

to let him go to the rescue of the sinking ship. I hate having my

childish beliefs disturbed! It tears me all up by the roots, and gives

me a pain in my spirit's toes. But never mind, there's plenty more

romance, which no one can take away from New England, though the very

man who wrote about Ireson complained that it had gone:

_"Gone like the Indian wizard's yell

And fire dance round the magic rock.

Forgotten like the Druid's spell

At moonrise by his holy oak."_

No, no, Whittier, surely you wouldn't say so now if you could see

steamboats and trains pouring forth multitudes, and thousands and tens

of thousands of motor cars stuffed full of people from all over the

world drawn to New England because of its never, never lost halo of

romance!

Did I tell you just now that we were coming toward Marblehead? Well, one

can do that, and not get to Marblehead. You can keep on seeing

Marblehead and expecting to arrive, while in reality you are going all

around "Robin Hood's barn." By the way, I never saw a barn exciting

enough to belong to Robin Hood till I came with Jack on this tour

through New England. Here, barns are as grand as churches, and very much

like them, steeples and all.

A lot of things happened to us on the way to will o' the wisp

Marblehead--_old_ Marblehead, I mean, for _new_ Marblehead is just a

very gay and jolly summer resort, such as I fancy little Susan would,

in her pink sugar heart, have loved. We kept on seeing the old town to

our left, across a harbour as full of white yachts and sailboats as a

New England pond is of water lilies. Jack was loving everything, and

utterly oblivious that beyond Salem lay Aunt Mary-ville. His face was

perfectly ecstatic as we crossed a river--Whittier's beloved

Merrimac--on an ancient covered wooden bridge. He said the sound of the

tires on the slightly loose boards was better music than the followers

of Richard Strauss could make from the "noises of life." I do love those

covered bridges, don't you? They're so richly brown, some of them, that

while one slowly travels along under the roof, it's like looking at the

sun through a piece of cider-brown glass. Or if they're not brown,

they're a soft, velvet gray--gray as shadows at full moon, gray as the

light in dreams.

I hardly know how, eventually, we did get into old Marblehead, for Jack

and I were both so infatuated with the way we lost sight now and then of

the goal. Imagine a road lined on either side with apple trees. If you

haven't seen these, you have never seen such orchards in your life, my

Mercedes! If there was anything as good in Eden, no wonder Eve ate that

apple. I shouldn't wonder if she fixed her eye on it when it was still a

bud.

And then, behind the orchards, there were hills, playgrounds for baby

cedars. Everything contrived to look at least two hundred years old

(except the blossoms and the motor cars), and even the pigeons had such

an air of colonial serenity that they simply refused to stir for a

new-fangled thing like an automobile. They sat still, pretending not to

see us, and never changed their expressions!

At last we did get into old Marblehead, and I'm so happy to tell you it

was exactly like finding our way round the corner in a picture. You know

that thrilling corner in pictures, leading somewhere you are dying to

see and never can? Well, now I have seen it. It's Marblehead. Round the

corner of the front of the picture where the new, smart things are, we

cleverly slipped in. And there was the background running up the canvas,

all over funny labyrinths of streets generally leading nowhere, or, if

anywhere, back to the same garden we'd just passed, a darling garden

boiling over with grass pinks, cabbage roses, sweet williams, and

bleeding hearts. Each house was just a little quainter than the other,

and Jack and I thought we were going to like Marblehead better than any

that ever lived, until--we came to Salem, after Manchester and Magnolia.

Then--we weren't precisely being _untrue_ to Marblehead. No, never that!

_But_ Salem--perhaps it's fair after all to keep a larger place in

memory-land for the Witch City.

It would have been almost a _world_ tragedy if, when the great fire

swept over the town, it hadn't stopped short of the old part, which is

American history incarnate. That "old part" consists of "old, older,

oldest." The oldest houses of all, built about 1635, are very, very

simple, as if the Puritans had prayed over them to be delivered from

temptation and craving for beauty. Then, next are the ones not quite so

old, when people began to be rich and see that Beauty wasn't after all

the unpardonable sin. These houses of the eighteenth century look as if

architects might have been commissioned to come from the Old World to

build them, bringing traditions of gracious decoration for outside and

in. Next, there are the far grander and more stately mansions which grew

up after the Revolution, when the good folk of New England knew that

their land and their fortunes would be theirs forever, undisputed. Salem

had grown into an important place then. Merchants and shipowners had

plenty of money to spend. They spent it well, too, for they made their

dwellings very beautiful, so beautiful that the witch hunters and Quaker

persecutors of the past would have been shocked to the bottom of those

hollow places they called their hearts.

What a good thing it is that there wasn't much brick to be had when the

first old colonial houses were a-building! To be sure, some of the very

best in Salem and Boston and other towns are of brick; but brick had to

come in ships from old England, so only those persons with the most

money and possibly the most cultivated taste could use it. Consequently

the characteristic houses of New England and its borders--the white and

yellow houses we _think_ of when we say "New England"--were made of

wood; and they are unique in the world.

They say that the oldest buildings of Salem--the Gothic, steep-roofed

ones--were meant as copies of gabled cottages on the old home side of

the water. But if they were, they were as far off the originals as a

child's drawing on a slate is far from a steel engraving; and Jack and I

are glad, because these dear things are so ingenuously and deliciously

American that they could exist nowhere except on this side.

I was only too glad to stay in Salem as long as possible, because it put

off Aunt Mary and Wenham, where Jack and I had promised to stay all

night, letting the others go on to wait for us at Newburyport. Jack had

a map (he doesn't mind having maps of towns, or looking at road maps

when _in_ towns), and we took a regular Hawthorne itinerary. We began at

the house in Union Street where he was born--a rather pathetic, forlorn

house, like the birthplaces of most geniuses; then the next, where the

family lived till they moved to Raymond, in sight of the White

Mountains; and so on, following to the custom-house where the bored

genius weighed and gauged, and not missing a single landmark. All are

picturesque to the imagination, but the landmark most picturesque to the

eye is of course "The House of Seven Gables," and that, some of those

dreadful people who dispute everything nice say, isn't what it pretends

to be.

As if such an adorable and perfectly sincere and high-souled looking

house would pretend anything! Should I hear such heresy uttered I would

stop my ears, but coming on it in print was simple, because all I had to

do was to snap the book shut with a bang. It is the dearest, kindest

little gray house, which all new houses, no matter how big and

distinguished, would be proud to have for their grandmother!

Hawthorne's cousin, Miss Ingersoll, whom he called the "Duchess," lived

in the old Turner Street house, and it _had_ had seven gables before his

day. It's perfectly legitimate to put them back, and even a _duty_,

which has been exquisitely carried out. I should like to kiss the hand

of the lady who honoured Hawthorne's beautiful memory by making the

house as dear as that memory itself. I suppose it was she who had the

brilliant idea of using for a front door an old nailed oak one found in

the attic (there must be a lovely attic!), putting the quaint oven of

ancient times into the kitchen, and retrieving from oblivion the

"Duchess's" toasting fork with which she used to make toast for

Hawthorne. There's a creepy story about the way he thought of the

murder, from seeing, through a tiny window of greenish glass, a cousin

of his fast asleep and looking as if dead. But there's a story just as

fascinating about every house in Salem, connected with Hawthorne.

Romantic and interesting things followed him about in his life, like

tame dogs, though he didn't always realize at the moment that they were

romantic or interesting. Sometimes he thought only that they were tame.

All over the place you feel the thrill of witches and the torturing of

Quakers. That's partly thanks to Longfellow, and Whittier, of course,

but mostly from the _influence_ which such tremendous happenings leave,

I think. It's as if some picture of the past were in the atmosphere, and

now and then, out of a corner of your eye, you caught a glimpse, as you

do of the "ghost" of a rainbow when the rainbow seems to have gone.

The "Witch House," where Judge Corwin lived at the time of the

persecution, is almost hidden away now, as if it were trying to escape

from something, and at last brought to bay like a very small, fierce

animal. Even now I can hardly bear to think of those days, and all those

poor people suffering through a few naughty, hysterical children. I'm

sure the Indian woman Tituba could haunt me in Salem even if I lived in

a perfectly new, perfectly good modern hotel! I should have tried the

experiment, I think, if it hadn't been for Aunt Mary being so nearby,

at Wenham.

Well, quite late in the afternoon (I forgot to tell you we lunched, but

you may take that for granted, with so many men in the party) we said

good-bye to Salem. We said other things, too, all in praise of it; and

Jack felt particularly reverential because Salem sent the first ships

from America to Indian and Russian ports. Wasn't it sporting when you

think of what ships were then? But these seafaring men of the New

England coast were like the men of Devon, the "bravest of the brave."

Aunt Mary had plumped heavily down on my heart again, before we got to

Beverly, and this time I couldn't put her out of my mind though the

grandeur of the north coast was in my eyes. Oliver Wendell Holmes lived

in Beverly and loved it, but then he had no Aunt Mary in the

neighbourhood.

Did you ever read what Thackeray said about Wenham Lake Ice? It seems

every London house of any pretension had it on its dinner table, but I

don't think it travels so far in these days of artificial ice. The

lake's still there, anyhow, in a hollow to the left of the road as you

go, gleaming blue and mysterious as watching eyes between the dark

trunks of a pine forest. Then, after that lake, there was no more excuse

for lingering, unless at the monument. We came into Wenham. Jack was

trying to look brave.

"In a few minutes now," said he, with galvanized cheerfulness, "we shall

be having tea with your Aunt Mary."

At that instant (we had purposely dropped back to bring up the rear of

the procession after Salem, letting even the lumbering Hippopotamus

bumble on ahead) we beheld all our family of cars drawn up under some

skyscraping elms, in front of the most delectable tea-house you ever met

in your life. The Hippo was in front of a very fine old white church,

with "I am one of the pillars of New England" written in every line of

it; but it was certainly the tea-house which had arrested its career.

[Illustration: map]*

There was a large green and white striped umbrella or two protecting

some little tables, and grouped round those little tables were our

friends.

"I'm _hanged_ if we'll be having tea with my Aunt Mary!" said I, with

that firm-jawed look Jack has got to know and fear as characteristic of

the American wife at bay.

So we had tea there, under elms so generously deep and thick that large

populations of robins live in them without ever having seen each other's

faces. They were, to the tree world, what Blenheim is in castle world.

People can come and live there for years, they say, without the duke

ever knowing they've arrived. Well, so could whole families of birds

live in these elms without the leading robin hearing an alien chirp.

We drowned our sorrows in tea and cream, and buried our sinister

premonitions in scones. Also cakes. A wonderful woman had made them--a

lady-woman. She will be the heroine of my great American novel, if I

ever write one. I hope to goodness she won't be gone from Wenham before

it's finished and I can send her a presentation copy! Everything was

green and white in the tea-house, except the dear little things to be

sold there: weather-cocks, and door-stops, and old china. We bought

specimens of these as sops to Cerberus--I mean, as presents for Aunt

Mary--and when there was no longer a pretext for lingering we crept

reluctantly away with the spoils.

It was absolutely _no_ comfort to me, as we crawled through the pretty

square, and approached "Miss Keddison's mansion" (only too easy to find)

that Wenham would be a lovely place to spend not only one but many

nights in. There, on a colonial porch, behind colonial pillars, in a

colonial rocking-chair, sat Aunt Mary on the watch. _She_ looked not

only colonial but Doric!

We had got ahead of the others by this time, and my aunt, rising from

her chair, with a gesture stopped the whole procession. I don't know

whether she meant to do this or not, but no one would have dared pass,

any more than if she had been a railway barrier with "Stop! Look!

Listen!" painted on her high white forehead.

We slowed down: the Grayles-Grice, the Wilmot, the Hippo, and our

Hiawatha, as we have lately named our car.

Aunt Mary descended the steps and came to the gate. Jack jumped out,

forgetting he was lame, and nearly fell. I screamed. Every one scrambled

or leaped or slid to the rescue; and that was the way in which

Providence arranged for Peter Storm and Pat Moore and Larry, to say

nothing of those who mattered less, to become Aunt Mary's guests.

Providence is not too important a word, as you will see when I tell you

as much as I'm allowed to tell, about--what came of the visit.

Aunt Mary has many virtues. They stick out all over her like pins, but

there are some which aren't uncomfortably sharp. Her hospitality, for

instance. This house of hers at Wenham isn't one of the prettiest in the

place, but it is white and dignified, and the over-arching trees give

it charm. Aunt Mary is proud of it, and I think she was really pleased

to welcome the crowd. Besides, when she was in New York on business,

cutting coupons or something, Jack and I talked to her about Larry and

Pat. She was very interested, and said she had been taken to Kidd's

Pines to a garden party, some fifteen years ago, by Cousin John Randolph

Payton, who left me Awepesha, you know. She thought that she still had

some snapshots of the garden which she had taken herself that afternoon.

In those days, it seemed, she had threatened to develop a craze for

photography, but had found that it "interfered too seriously with her

more intellectual pursuits." However, she used to paste her trophies in

scrapbooks, and she said that when she got home from New York she would

look up the volume of that date. It ought to be in the attic, though she

had not seen it for a number of years.

Jack and I thought she would forget about this, and we had indeed

forgotten it ourselves when we arrived at Wenham. Aunt Mary, however,

had not. She greeted Larry warmly (for her) and assured him that, if her

niece had kept her informed of the route, she would have written or

telegraphed asking the whole party to tea. Not knowing our whereabouts,

she could not do this, but was delighted to find the cars stopping at

her door, and hoped that their occupants would all take tea with her.

Every one was simply stuffed with scones and chocolate cake, but such

was the look in Aunt Mary's eye that none dared confess the tea-house

debauch. Her invitation was accepted, and, eighteen strong, we filed

into her parlour. Luckily it's as big as a good-sized country

schoolroom, and there's a mid-Victorian "suite" consisting of two

sofas, a settee, a couple of easy chairs and eight uneasy ones. Aunt

Mary is of those worthy women who upholster themselves and dress their

furniture, so everything in her home is rather fussy, lots of

antimacassars and tidies and scarfs and that sort of thing. Besides, she

thinks flowers are for gardens, not for houses, with the exception of

some wax ones made by herself when a girl and preserved under glass.

Still, there's such a pet of an old Chinese wall paper, and everything

is so exquisitely neat that the effect isn't so bad as you might

suppose.

Aunt Mary has a _flair_ for liking the wrong people, and wronging the

right ones, so of course she took quite a fancy to Ed Caspian, and was

somewhat stiff with Peter, whom Mrs. Shuster introduced as "my

secretary, Mr. Storm." However, she was as nice as she could be to

Larry, and asked if I had mentioned her visit to Kidd's Pines. When she

heard that I had not, she was surprised and grieved at my carelessness.

"My niece was always inclined to be forgetful," said she. "I can't think

where she inherited it from. The first thing I did on my return from New

York was to look in the attic for my old photograph scrapbooks. I have a

place for everything, and everything in its place, in this house; but I

travel a great deal, and occasionally my servants, with the best

intentions, upset my arrangements. I found several of the little volumes

exactly where I expected to lay my hand on them, but I am very sorry to

say the one I wanted was missing. If I had been sure that I should have

the pleasure of seeing you and your daughter, Mr Moore, I would have

looked even more thoroughly, for I'm _sure_ the photographs exist. It

was fifteen years ago this summer that I attended the garden party at

Kidd's Pines, with my cousin, Mr. Payton. I met you and Mrs. Moore for a

moment, I remember quite well. You both looked almost too young to be

married, I thought, but your little girl was about four years old. She

was not at the party officially" (Aunt Mary smiled at her own coy wit),

"but I met her with a boy much older, who was playing with her. I took a

snapshot of them both together, standing by a swing which was in a

retired part of the grounds."

By this time Larry was bored to extinction, but still charming, as he

always is with women, young or old, pretty or plain. He pretended so

pleasantly to be disappointed at the loss of the book (he loathes

looking at photographs) that Aunt Mary was fired to a renewed effort.

"Why, now I come to think of it," said she, "there's another place in

the attic where the book quite well might be. If you will excuse me,

I'll go up and try to find it."

Larry hastened to protest that he wouldn't trouble her for the world,

but Aunt Mary was firm in her desire to please, though sorry to desert

her guests. As the argument went on, Peter Storm abruptly got up and

handed me a plate of cake. "Heavens, no more!" I murmured in an

anguished whisper. "I feel as if I should never be able to look cake in

the face again."

"Don't then, but look me in the face," he mumbled. I did so, surprised.

"Please ask to go and search for that book, and take me with you," I

saw, rather than heard, the words formed by his lips.

Mine not to question why! Mine but to do or die! Instantly I offered,

in a honeyed tone, to save Aunt Mary for her guests, by myself searching

the attic. (Dear Dad and I stayed with her over one melancholy Christmas

when I was a kid. We arrived by train, of course, and saw nothing of the

country. As for Wenham itself, it was feet deep in snow, so I saw

nothing of that either, but I did see the attic. It was my refuge and my

joy. I worship garrets.) Of this episode I reminded my aunt, and assured

her that, though my last visit had been so long ago, I remembered the

topography of the attic. If she would tell me the place to look, I would

guarantee to find the volume if it existed.

Aunt Mary proceeded at once to mention the date of that Christmas visit,

and my age at the time, so now everybody who can be bothered reckoning

up knows just how long I have been twenty-six. Having made this

revelation to those whom it concerned and did not concern, she decided

to accept my offer. I jumped up to go, and at the door, as if on a

sudden thought, exclaimed, "Oh, Mr. Storm, do come along and protect me

from garret ghosts."

He came, and we talked of indifferent things on the way up: of the

house, and the steepness of the attic stairs. At the top of the steps,

however, he changed his tone. Aunt Mary had mentioned a certain oak

secretary-bookcase with glass doors, standing close to the head of the

stairs, and as I steered for it, along a narrow lane between ancient

trunks and packing cases, Peter said: "Mrs. Winston, I've made up my

mind to tell you something, and this is a good place to do it. When I've

told you, you'll understand why I didn't want Miss Keddison to find that

book of photographs, and why I don't even want it to exist in this

house."

The Lightning Conductor Discovers America · 第 18 / 24 段