Haifa, June 7.—I was glad to avail myself of an opportunity to revisit
Jerusalem after an interval of six years, and by a journey through a
part of Judea to see the changes within that period. The attention which
has of recent years been directed towards Palestine has perhaps produced
more marked results in this province than in Galilee, and in some
respects its progress has been more rapid. This is partly owing to the
fact that for the past eight years it has been under the administration
of a more than usually enlightened pasha, who exercises his authority
independently of the Governor-General of Syria, and partly because its
holy places prove more attractive both to Jews and Gentiles than do
those of Galilee. Hence there has been a larger inflow of capital and of
immigration.
Three miles from Jaffa lies the German colony of Sarona, which, like the
one at Haifa, was founded some years ago by the Temple Society. It
resembles the one there in the character of its buildings and general
plan. There is a wide central street with neat stone and tiled roofed
houses, and two rows of shade trees, with a short cross street, church,
and schoolhouse, and that general air of cleanliness and comfort which
Germans understand so well how to impart to their settlements. It is far
inferior to Haifa, however, both on the score of salubrity and beauty of
position, being situated on a grassy, rolling country destitute of
woods, some miles from the sea and the mountains. There is therefore
something forlorn in the solitude of its position. The inhabitants
suffer a good deal from fever, and many deaths took place last year,
which was unusually unhealthy. On the other hand, the fertility of the
soil and its proximity to so large and prosperous a town as Jaffa, which
now numbers close upon twenty thousand inhabitants, enables the settlers
to do somewhat better financially than those at Haifa. They are engaged
in extending the area of their orange-groves and vineyards; and as the
general experience is that the climate of this country improves under
the influence of husbandry, it is to be hoped that a few more years will
work a change in this respect, as they certainly must in the general
attractiveness of the place. The Temple Society has also a small colony
actually in the suburbs of Jaffa, the members of which are engaged in
commercial pursuits in that town, and are doing well.
Since I last visited this place emigrant Jews from Russia and Roumania
have established no fewer than four colonies in its neighbourhood,
which, however, are scattered in different directions at distances of
several miles apart. The circumstances under which my journey was made
prevented me, unfortunately, from inspecting them as thoroughly as I
could have desired. Two of these are under the protection of Baron
Rothschild, and enjoy such pecuniary support from him as will secure
their future, in spite of the obstacles which, owing to government
opposition and other local difficulties, they have had to encounter. So
far as energy, industry, and aptitude for agricultural pursuits are
concerned, the absence of which has always been alleged as the reason
why no Jewish colony could succeed, the experience of more than two
years has now proved that such apprehensions are groundless, and that
with a fair chance Jews make very good colonists, and are likely, in
fact, to succeed better in this country as agriculturists than in
America, where they have the skilled industry and indomitable energy of
the American farmer to compete with, instead of the helpless ignorance
and ingrained indolence of the native fellahin, who are their only
rivals here.
Besides these two colonies there are two others, one of which has been
struggling on unaided for the last seven years, and which has latterly
almost succumbed to the methods which have been resorted to by the
government to extinguish it, but which has within the last month derived
fresh aid and encouragement from the visit of Dr. Adler, the Grand Rabbi
of London, and Mr. Wissotsky, the delegate of a society which has
recently been formed in Poland, called “The Lovers of Israel.” The visit
of these two gentlemen marks a new era in the fortunes of the Petach
Tikveh colony, as it is called, as it resulted in the substantial
donation of a sum of £300, and in bringing it to the knowledge of the
public. One of the chief drawbacks of the colony has been the
unhealthiness of its site, and the purchase of a healthy hill-top, about
half an hour distant, has been attended with so much difficulty that it
is only now that the colonists have at last secured their title to it
sufficiently to warrant the building of houses upon it.
Besides these four Jewish and two German colonies there has been for
fifteen years established in the neighbourhood of Jaffa a large Jewish
agricultural college, which was founded by the Israelite Alliance, for
the purpose of educating Jewish youths in agricultural pursuits. It is a
handsome and extensive building, standing a little to the right of the
road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, amid groves of trees and gardens, and
surrounded by a fine tract of arable land. Here are avenues of eucalypti
and of bamboos, both trees unknown in this country, and which, from
their novelty, form a striking feature in the plantations near the
house. For many years this establishment was a source of permanent
expense to its founders, and it was feared that the results would never
justify the original outlay. Their perseverance has, however, met with
its reward. The increase of the annual income last year amounted to
$5000. One of the principal sources of revenue are the ethrogim, or
gigantic citrons, which are used by the Jews all over Europe at some of
their religious festivals, and which, if they can be guaranteed as
coming from the Holy Land, command a fictitious price. Besides these
they export oranges and vegetables, and have engaged in the manufacture
of wines and brandy, for which they find a good sale. It is to be hoped
that as Jewish colonies in Palestine increase, and the demand for
skilled Jewish agriculturists conversant with the local methods of
cultivation and familiar with the language is augmented, a better
opening will be found for the youths who have received their education
in this establishment. Hitherto the young men, after receiving a good
education, of which agricultural science only formed part, have
generally seen their way on leaving the college to engage in some more
profitable and congenial pursuits than tilling the land. As a rule,
middle-aged men with a limited education and large families make better
agriculturists than ambitious and well-educated youths.
There is a fifth colony in Judea, which is nearer to Jerusalem than
Jaffa, formed of Jews who have apparently been hired to become
Christians, by being provided for as colonists; but so far it has proved
a failure. The government has refused all permission to build. They are
at present living in a large wooden shanty, and are said to be reverting
to their old faith, as they find that the new one does not pay.
I have also heard of a sixth colony which is in process of formation, so
that adding to these three which are in Galilee, there are altogether
nine Jewish colonies now in Palestine— all of which, with one exception,
have been established within the last two years and a half, in spite of
difficulties which would have discouraged people animated by no higher
sentiment than that of merely finding a living. However slow and
uncertain their progress may be now, these first settlers may console
themselves by the reflection that their experience as pioneers will be
of incalculable value to their successors, when altered conditions may
arise, which shall offer increased inducement to emigration.
Meantime, it is as well that intending immigrants should not be misled
by the delusive reports which are promulgated from time to time of a
change in the policy of the government in this respect. Practically the
opposition to Jewish colonization on the part of the authorities is as
stringent as ever, and any action taken upon a contrary hypothesis will
only lead to disappointment.
This increasing tendency to flock into the Holy Land is not confined,
however, to Jews alone. There is an annual augmentation in the number of
pilgrims who invade it, of nearly all the Christian sects, besides those
who establish themselves here under the influence of various religious
hobbies. Thus the foreign and Jewish population of this province is
constantly increasing, and the effect of this influx is more strikingly
marked at Jerusalem than elsewhere; but it is natural that Jaffa, as the
port of Judea, should also largely have benefited by its influence, and
I was much struck by the growth of the place and the signs of its
increasing prosperity. This is, no doubt, due also in some measure to
the excellent carriage-road which now connects it with Jerusalem. I saw
several large gangs of men at work upon those sections which still
remain of the old rough track, which in former days made the journey
between these places upon wheels a positive torture. It is true that
many excruciatingly rough places still remain, but another year will
remove them, and it is the intention of the present governor to extend
the road from Jerusalem by way of Bethlehem (it is now almost completed
to the latter place) to Hebron, and also to connect the rich country
east of the Jordan with Judea by a carriage-road which is in immediate
contemplation from Jerusalem to Jericho.
The rapidly improving facilities for travelling in Palestine, the annual
increase in the number of tourists who each year visit it, the numerous
ecclesiastical and charitable establishments which have been already
constructed and are yearly extended, the influx of foreign capital
resulting therefrom, and the increase of the foreign population, both
Jew and Christian, all tend to give Palestine an exceptional position as
a province in the Turkish empire. It is the only one, indeed, where the
evidences of progress are steady and substantial; and there can be no
doubt that one of the most marked results of this progress will be the
importance which the Holy Land is destined to assume in the event of the
Eastern question being reopened, for there is no province in the empire
upon which political and religious interests of so varied and universal
a nature are concentrated.