CHAPTER XI_Roses and Rose Growing

HOW TO GROW ROSES FOR EXHIBITION

(_By the_ REV. F. PAGE-ROBERTS, _Vice-President National Rose Society_,

_F.R.H.S._)

IN writing this chapter my purpose is to tell, in a few clear words, the

way to grow fine roses, whether they be for exhibition or for private

delight; for the method and culture are identical, if the blooms are to

be worth looking at.

First, then, as to situation and soil. If possible, choose a position

for the beds sheltered from strong winds, yet not near large trees, or

hedges; for the roots will enter the beds and rob them of moisture and

nutriment. Buildings and walls are the best shelters.

Make the beds, if possible, in the highest part of the garden, and not

the lowest; roses like an open situation, though they need shelter from

strong winds, and shade, if possible, from the midday sun. In writing

these notes I do not wish to say anything that will discourage any one

from trying to grow exhibition roses; for they can be grown, more or

less well, in almost any situation, and any soil. Those who can choose

both are to be envied.

Then as to soil; some varieties, the H. Ps., will only give the finest

blooms in heavy loam; the H. Teas in a less heavy; and the Teas, the

most beautiful, though perhaps not so popular as the dark H. Ps., in

quite light sandy soil. So the grower must decide according to his

situation and soil what varieties to grow, remembering that the Teas are

liable to suffer from severe frost.

I make my beds three feet deep and three feet wide,[11] allowing for two

rows of roses, and a grass path about thirty inches wide between the

beds, grass being more sightly than gravel, and pleasanter to walk on.

The beds, if the soil is heavy, will be all the better for being raised

a little above the level of the paths; the roots do not like stagnant

water. The beds should be prepared in the autumn, a few weeks before the

end of October, that the soil may settle. The manure should be below the

roots, not touching them; the roots will find it, and it is better for

them to go down, than to come to the surface and suffer if the season be

dry. A good sprinkling of bone meal spread over the top soil before

planting (with a dusting of basic slag, three to four ounces per square

yard) will be all that is necessary at this time. Covering the beds with

manure in the winter is not recommended; and digging, or even turning it

in, in the spring, is not advisable, however carefully it is done, as

some of the roots must suffer, and, besides, manure does not protect the

roots. The beds should never be disturbed more than the depth that a hoe

will do it. The beds for H. Ts. and Teas should be prepared in the same

way. Beds wide enough for two rows are more easily managed than wider

ones, there being no need to tread on the soil when attending to the

plants, and they can be more easily hoed.

When selecting varieties, consult an expert, or better still, if you are

not a subscriber to the N. R. S. (and this all rosarians should be), get

a copy of the N. R. S. official catalogue of Roses, which can be

obtained by non-members through a member, price 2_s._ 6_d._ This will

give you all the information desired. A list of good roses for

exhibition is given at the end of this chapter. It is advisable to order

the plants early, as nurserymen execute orders in the order in which

they are received, and planting should be done during the end of October

and November; if not done then it must be deferred till February or

March.

The distance of plants from each other depends a good deal upon the

varieties. Strong growers should be planted wider apart than small

growers; one foot apart is about the usual distance in the rows.

There are some varieties like _A. K. Williams_, _Mrs. W. J. Grant_, and

_Horace Vernet_, that do not transplant well. These ought to be budded,

and not moved, if possible. Dwarf-rooted stocks can be bought of the

nurserymen at a small cost; and the Standard stocks, the best for Tea

roses, can be usually got in the neighbouring hedges.

=Pruning.=[12]--The object of pruning is to give increased vigour to the

plant, and to keep it within bounds; to make, if possible, a new plant

each year, a new top to the old roots. And to do this, severe pruning is

absolutely necessary. The harder the pruning, the stronger the growth.

Each variety should be pruned according to its growth. If very vigorous,

they require less cutting back than those of moderate, or weakly growth.

H. Ps. will be pruned harder than either H. Ts. or Teas; the latter, on

account of frost, will sometimes do with little pruning beyond cutting

out all dead and weakly shoots, and shortening slightly the long

straggling ones. In all cases do not allow the centre of the plant to be

crowded. The H. Ps. as a rule, may be cut down to two or three eyes,

leaving the very vigorous shoots of some kinds even five or six eyes;

but all weak shoots must be cut down to the base of the plant. This

pruning should be done in March, leaving the Teas till April. If in

pruning the pith be found to be dark in colour, the shoot must be cut

back. Sometimes it will be necessary to cut it quite away, if no

light-coloured pith can be seen. Then a certain amount of pruning or

thinning of the shoots is necessary in the spring, after the roses have

started growing; three to six shoots only, according to the variety,

should be left. A thinning again in autumn, of the shoots that have done

their work, will give the later shoots a better chance of ripening.

=Manuring.=--Farmyard dung is the best of all fertilisers, and this

should be used, as has been pointed out,[13] when the beds are being

made, so that there is plenty of good nutriment below the roots. Nitrate

of soda and Guano, both soluble, may be sprinkled on the surface

alternately once a week after the plants have begun to grow, and hoed

in. Manure put on for a mulch in winter does little or no good. The very

best and only mulch, winter and summer, is a loose soil surface; and for

this the hoe must be kept at work, especially after rain or watering. A

good liquid manure is made by putting a barrowful of fresh cow manure

into a large barrel, _a big wine pipe_ is the thing; add soft water to

thin it, put in a bag of soot, and fill up with rain-water. After

settling, this will be ready for use. Liquid manure must not be given

when the soil is dry, but only after rain or a good watering. Soot

dusted over the beds is beneficial, and may also destroy a certain

amount of Mildew. The drainage from the farmyard should not be allowed

to waste, as is so often the case; but if well diluted it makes a good

liquid manure. Do not apply the fertiliser close to the stem, but

distribute over the whole ground. Remember when giving liquid manure the

same rule holds good, "Strong meat for men, milk for babes."

Strong growing varieties will stand more than weak ones, and no liquid

manure should be given to newly planted trees. A dressing of Basic Slag

in the autumn is recommended.

=Pests.=[14]--These are many, and the remedies are few and simple.

Caterpillars, large and small, must be hunted for daily and killed with

finger and thumb from April to July, however unpleasant the process may

be, or the most promising buds will be spoiled. For destroying Aphis,

which are very troublesome some years, a solution made by boiling

Quassia chips in water, and adding soft soap when cooling, is often

used; though "finger and thumb" drawn gently up the stem when the insect

is first seen, puts an end to those on the shoot; and finger and thumb

is even recommended for destroying Mildew on its first appearance,

though this cannot be done when there is a bad attack.

Nothing in my experience equals Flowers of Sulphur for Mildew, when

distributed by an "Ideal" powder bellows. This should be done quite

early in the morning, when there is a promise of a hot, sunny day. If

the wind is not too strong, the Sulphur will float through the plants

like a cloud of smoke, searching into every part. This should be

repeated once a week, and even before there is a sign of Mildew on the

leaves, prevention being better than cure. But I know no remedy that

will quite destroy it.

* * * * *

=Exhibiting.=--If the grower wishes to exhibit his flowers, he should

follow the instructions here given; and I would also advise the reading

of the late Rev. A. Foster Melliar's book on exhibiting, and the Rev. J.

H. Pemberton's--both most excellent books--which enter more fully into

particulars than space allows me to do.

The number of shoots having been reduced,[15] it will soon be time to

gradually take away all the buds, except the centre bud and one other.

This also must be taken away, as soon as the centre bud looks healthy

and free from damage. Very strong growers, like _Florence Pemberton_,

and those varieties having a great number of petals, will do better if

the buds are not much thinned, or they will be coarse.

The N.R.S. definition of a good rose is: "The highest type of bloom is

one which has form, size, brightness, substance, and good foliage, and

which is at the time of judging in the most perfect phase of its

possible beauty."

It will be necessary in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals to select the bud,

which should be about three-quarters open, two days before the show

(four or even five days for Teas), and to tie up, not tightly, the

centre of the flower with Berlin wool, leaving the outer petals free,

taking care that it is not wet with rain, or even dew. Bend the shoot

down, if possible, and cover with a shade; some clean litter spread

under dwarfs on the ground will keep the flower from being splashed by

heavy rains. Teas are improved if covered with a cone of butter paper,

as well as the shade; and some may be cut two days before the show, and

if put in a dry, dark cellar, will remain in good condition. _Marechal

Niel_ will improve in colour by being kept in the dark. The best time

for cutting H. Ps. is from four to seven o'clock the evening before the

show; they will lose a little in colour, but will stand longer than if

cut before six o'clock on the morning of the show. Use garden scissors

in preference to a knife. When getting the blooms, cut the stem five or

six inches long, and remove the lower leaves, which only fill up the

tube and do no good to the flower, and do not add to its appearance in

the box. A receptacle with water should be taken round when cutting, and

the flowers put in immediately and never allowed to become dry (the

water must not be cold). The name should be attached at once.

The regulation size of the N. R. S. for rose boxes is "4 inches high in

front and 18 inches wide, and of the following lengths (all outside

measurements). For 24 blooms, 3 ft. 6 ins. long; for 18 blooms, 2 ft. 9

ins. long; for 12 blooms, 2 ft. long; for 9 blooms, 1 ft. 6 ins. long;

for 6 blooms, 1 ft. long; for 8 trebles, 3 ft. 6 ins. long; for 6

trebles, 2 ft. 9 ins. long; for 4 trebles, 2 ft. long." The lid should

have a depth of 9 inches to allow room for the blooms. Boxes are

supplied at a moderate price by John Pinches, 3 Crown Buildings, Crown

Street, Camberwell, who also supplies tubes, wire holders, and shades;

they can also be obtained from horticultural firms. The tray of the box

should be covered with moss. When the roses are all arranged for the

night, give a little air by putting a prop under the lid, and leave the

box in a cool place. When the boxes are placed on the show tables, lift

the lids sufficiently high to get at the flowers. Each tube should be

lifted and the rose raised, taking care that the stem is in the water.

All damaged outer petals must be removed, and the flower if full with

substance in it, may have the wool removed. Assist the opening of the

blooms with a camel's hair brush. A gentle puff with the mouth at the

centre will loosen tightly packed petals. Care must be taken when

"dressing" a bloom, not to alter its character; for this, according to

N. R. S., "shall count as a bad bloom." The ties must not be removed

from the thin ones (those with few petals) until the last minute, when

it is time to remove the lids. It will be necessary to take a few extra

blooms in different stages of growth, to replace any in the box that

have expanded; for a rose showing an eye gains no point. Care must be

taken that there are no duplicates, but all distinct according to

"schedule." Once exhibit at an important show, and many lessons will be

learnt which can only be learnt there and then.

A SELECTION OF THE BEST EXHIBITION ROSES

_Hybrid Perpetuals._

Alfred Colomb

A. K. Williams

Bob Davison

Captain Hayward

Charles Lefebvre

Commandant Felix Faure

Comte Raimbaud

Dr. Andry

Duke of Wellington

Dupuy Jemain

Fisher Holmes

Francois Michelon

Frau Karl Druschki

Helen Keller

Horace Vernet

Hugh Dickson

Hugh Watson

Marie Baumann

Mrs. Cocker

Mrs. John Laing

Mrs. Sharman Crawford

Prince Arthur

Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi

Ulrich Brunner

Victor Hugo

_Hybrid Teas._

Bessie Brown

Caroline Testout

C. J. Grahame

Countess of Derby

Countess of Gosford

Dean Hole

Earl of Warwick

Florence Pemberton

George Laing Paul

J. B. Clarke

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria

Killarney

La France

Lady Ashtown

Lady Helen Vincent

Lady Moyra Beauclerk

Mme. Melanie Soupert

Marquise Litta

Mildred Grant

Mrs. G. W. Kershaw

Mrs. John Bateman

Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt

Mrs. W. J. Grant

Perle von Godesberg

Princesse Marie Mertchersky

Queen of Spain

William Shean

Yvonne Vacherot

_Teas._

Anna Olivier

Auguste Comte

Bridesmaid

Catherine Mermet

Cleopatra

Comtesse de Nadaillac

Ernest Metz

Innocent Pirola

Mme. Constant Soupert

Mme. Cusin

Mme. de Watteville

Mme. Hoste

Mme. Jules Gravereaux

Maman Cochet

Marechal Niel

Medea

Mrs. Edward Mawley

Mrs. Myles Kennedy

Muriel Grahame

Souv. d'Elise Vardon

Souv. de Pierre Notting

Souv. de S. A. Prince

Souv. d'un Ami

The Bride

White Maman Cochet

FOOTNOTES:

[11] See Chapter I, "Making the Beds."

[12] See Chapter II.

[13] See Chapter I, and above, p. 152.

[14] See Chapter X.

[15] See above.

INDEX

Abol syringe, 138, 148.

Abol, White's Superior, 141, 148.

Aphis.

_See_ Green Fly.

Aphis Lion, 140.

Arsenate of lead, 146-9.

Beds, depth, 6, 152.

-- size of, 5, 152.

Bee, leaf cutting, 143.

Beetles, 142-3.

Black spot, 138.

Black sulphur, 138.

Budding, 27-30.

Caterpillars, 143-8, 156.

Chalcid fly, 140.

Cock chafer, 142.

Cuckoo spit, 141-2.

Cuttings, 30-34.

-- under glass, 32.

-- open ground, 33-4.

Cutting dead blooms, 21.

Drainage, 2-3, 152.

Draughts, danger of, 1-2.

"Enemies of the Rose," 136.

Exhibiting, 157.

-- arranging at the show, 159.

-- cutting the blooms, 158.

-- disbudding, 157.

-- rose boxes, 158-9.

-- rose tubes, 159.

-- shading, 158.

Exhibiting, selecting the bud, 157.

-- thinning the shoots, 154.

-- tying the blooms, 157.

Exhibition roses--

-- -- beds for, 151-2.

-- -- distance of plants, 153.

-- -- manures, 152, 155.

-- -- pruning, 154.

-- -- selecting varieties, 153.

-- -- soil, 152.

Flowers of sulphur, 137, 150, 156.

Frog fly.

_See_ Cuckoo spit.

Fungi, 136-9.

Green fly, 139-41.

-- -- remedies for, 148-9, 156.

Heeling in roses, 9.

Hellebore wash, 145, 149.

Hoeing, importance of, 14, 155.

Hover fly, 140.

Ichneumon fly, 140.

"Ideal" powder bellows, 138, 156.

Labels, 13.

Ladybirds, 140.

Layering, 34-6.

Liver of sulphur, 138, 150.

Manures--

-- Basic slag, 7, 156.

Manures, farm yard, 6-7, 155.

-- Guano, 155.

-- liquid, 155-6.

-- Nitrate of soda, 155.

Mildew, 137-141, 155-6.

-- remedies for, 137-8, 150, 156.

Mo-Effic, 138.

National Rose Society, 136, 153, 157-8-9.

Noisette, Philippe, 68.

Paraffin, danger of, 140-1.

Planting, 10-14.

-- dates for, 7, 153.

-- depth, 9-10.

Potassium sulphide.

_See_ Liver of Sulphur.

Position, 1, 151.

Propagating, 27.

Provins, 40.

Pruning, 14-27.

-- Banksia roses, 26, 54.

-- dates for, 16.

-- directions for, 22-7.

-- for exhibition, 154.

-- Fortune's Yellow, 26.

-- Noisettes, 20.

-- object of, 19, 154.

-- Ramblers, 20.

Raffia, 12, 30.

Rivers, Mr. Thomas, 111.

-- Amateur's Rose Guide, 35-6, 72, 82, 112, 123.

Rose, Apothecary's, 40.

-- Blush tea-scented, 81.

-- Camoens, 125.

-- Caroline Testout, 97.

-- Cherokee, 54, 63.

-- Conrad F. Meyer, 46.

-- Crimson Perpetual, 111.

-- Crimson Rambler, 58.

-- de Meaux, 23, 37, 39.

-- de Provins, 39.

-- Devoniensis, 82.

-- Fortune's Yellow, 20, 69-70.

-- Frau Karl Druschki, 114.

-- General Schablikine, 85.

-- Gloire de Dijon, 82.

-- -- -- Rosamenes, 112, 124.

-- Jaune Desprez, 69.

-- La France, 93.

-- Lyon, 43.

-- Mme. Constant Soupert, 85.

-- Mme. Segond Weber, 95, 98.

-- M. Tillier, 84.

-- Peace, 85, 99.

-- Perpetual Damask, 124.

-- Reve d'Or, 71.

-- Souv. d'un Ami, 81.

-- Yellow China, 81.

Rose-chafer, 143.

-- Leaf scorch, 138.

-- Pests, 136-50, 156.

-- -- remedies for, 148-150, 156.

-- roots, care of, 8-9.

-- -- and manure, 7, 10, 152.

Roses--

-- arrangements in colour, 114-16.

-- Alba, 41, 48.

-- Austrian briars, 42, 49.

-- Autumn flowing climbers, 68-79.

-- Ayrshire, 52, 62.

-- Banksian, 53-4, 63.

-- Bourbon, 123, 130.

-- Boursault, 55, 63.

-- Brunonis, 73.

-- Cabbage or Provence, 38, 47.

-- China, 126, 131.

-- Damask, 41, 48.

-- Dwarf Polyantha, 128, 133.

-- Evergreen, 53, 63.

-- French or Gallica, 39-40, 48.

-- Hungarian, 56, 64.

-- Hybrid China, 56-7, 64, 112.

-- Hybrid Perpetual, 111-122.

-- -- -- climbing, 74, 76.

-- Hybrid Tea, 92-110.

-- -- -- climbing, 76-9.

-- Irish single, 90, 110.

-- Macartney, 73.

-- Moss, 39, 47-8.

-- Multiflora or Rambler, 57-9, 65-6.

-- Musk, 71-3.

-- Noisette, 68-71, 74-5.

-- Pernetiana, 42-3, 50.

-- Prairie, 55, 64.

-- Rugosa or Ramanas, 45-7, 50-1.

-- Scotch briar, 45, 50.

-- Sinica, 54, 63.

-- Summer-flowering dwarf, 36-51.

-- -- climbing, 52-67.

-- Sweet briar, 44, 50.

-- -- -- Penzance, 43-4, 50.

-- Tea, 80-92.

-- -- climbing, 70-9.

-- Wichuraiana, 60-2, 66-7.

Sawflies, 144-5.

Secateurs, 9, 17.

Shades for rose blooms, 159.

Shelter, 2, 151.

Size of beds, 5, 152.

Soil, 3-5, 152.

Soot, use of, 155.

Sooty mould, 139.

Standards, 116, 154.

-- budding, 28.

-- planting, 12.

Tarred twine, 12.

Trenching, 6.

Unpacking new roses, 8.

Washes--

-- Abol, White's Superior, 148.

-- Arsenate of lead, 146-9.

-- Hellebore, 145, 149.

-- Liver of sulphur, 138, 150.

-- Soft soap and Quassia, 140, 149, 156.

-- Tobacco, 141-2, 149.

Wire, danger of, 12-13.

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* * * * *

Transcriber's Notes:

Obvious punctuation errors repaired. Text uses: Eugene Verdier; Eugenie

Verdier, and Eugene Verdier. This was retained. Unless a large majority

was noticed, accents, except where noted, were left as in the original.

Page 40, Illustration caption, "Apothecaries'" changed to "Apothecary's"

to match text (Apothecary's Rose)

Page 51, "rosy" changed to "Rosy" (1890. Rosy carmine)

Page 53, Illustration caption, "ELICITE" changed to "FELICITE"

(FELICITE-PERPETUE)

Page 56, "he" changed to "the" (the Prairies)

Page 57, "Hebe" changed to "Hebe" (_Coupe d'Hebe_ and)

Page 62, "dou le" changed to "double" (white, large, double)

Page 66, "Debutante" changed to "Debutante" (Debutante. _Walsh_)

Page 77, "Barre" changed to "Barre" (Billiard and Barre)

Page 78, "pere" changed to "pere" (_Levet pere_, 1880)

Page 88, "Lady Mary Corry" was moved above "Lena" to maintain

alphabetical order of list.

Page 94, "Camoeens" changed to "Camoens" (them. _Camoens_)

Page 97, "Grunerwald" changed to "Gruenerwald" (Gustave Gruenerwald)

Page 124, "Chateau" changed to "Chateau" (Chateau de Neuilly, near)

Page 164, "SUFFOK" changed to "SUFFOLK" (BUNGAY, SUFFOLK)

End of Project Gutenberg's Roses and Rose Growing, by Rose Georgina Kingsley