_New cruising-ground--Case of the Winged Racer--A good chase--The
Contest--On the look-out--Not to be deceived--No prizes--Condore--A
French settlement--Kindly greetings--Monkey Island--Far from
home--Whistling Locusts--Instinct--Why no one sees a dead
monkey--Homewards--Yankee ships scarce._
The 8th of November saw the Alabama again in sight of land, and after
anchoring for a night off Flat Point, and sending a boat ashore, in the
vain hope of finding in the Malay villages a supply of some sort of
fresh provision, she again lifted her anchor and proceeded to sea under
steam.
* * * * *
_Tuesday, November 10th._--Passed between the islands of Beezee and
Sonbooko, both high and picturesque, the channel about a mile wide, some
villages under the groves of cocoa-nut trees on the former. The naked
natives coming down to the beach to gaze at us. We ran through the
Strait of Sunda about 2 P.M., passing to the westward of Thwart-the-Way.
Soon after passing out of the Strait and shaping our course, we
discovered a clipper-looking ship, under topsails, standing towards
North Island. Gave chase, although we were in the midst of a rain
squall, and in the course of fifteen or twenty minutes we were near
enough to him to make him show his colours. They were United States, and
upon being boarded he proved to be the Winged Racer, a vessel for which
we had been hunting outside the Strait. We captured him and sent him to
anchor about three miles from North Island (the Island bearing about
W.S.W.), and ran up and anchored near him ourselves. By working hard we
were enabled to get everything we wanted out of him by 2 o'clock A.M.;
and having despatched her crew, together with the crew of the Amanda, in
the boats of the prize, at their own request, we got under way at 4
A.M., and steamed out of sight of the coast by daylight. We were
fortunate enough to get some fowls, fruits, and vegetables from a
bum-boat of Malays, who made a business of supplying ships. The boat
reported that, when she left Angra about two days before, the Wyoming
was there. Fired the ship.
* * * * *
CASE OF THE WINGED RACER.
Ship under United States colours and register, and no claim of the
neutrality of the cargo among the papers; ship bound to New York. Ship
and cargo condemned.
* * * * *
_Wednesday, November 11th._--Made the North Watcher soon after daylight,
and finding that if I continued on at the same speed, I should be up
with Gasper Strait early in the night, and should be obliged to anchor
until daylight, I ordered the steam to be let down, and we were about
making arrangements for getting up the propeller, when a sail was
descried on the port bow, close hauled on the starboard tack. She soon
proved to be a rakish-looking ship, evidently United States. Kept away
from her from time to time as she passed towards our bow, and when we
came near enough we showed her the United States colours. She replied
with the same. I then fired a gun and hoisted our own colours (new
flag). Instead of obeying this signal to heave to, she made sail and
ran. We at once started the fires afresh, the steam having gone entirely
down, and made all sail in pursuit. The chase at this time was about
four miles from us, and for a long time we gained scarcely any thing
upon her. We threw a rifleshot astern him, but he disregarded this also.
Finally, after an exciting chase of one hour and a half (shifting guns,
and sending men aft to trim ship, and giving her a full head of steam),
we came near enough to him to throw a 32 pound shot between his masts,
when he shortened sail, came to the wind, and hove to. If the wind had
been _very_ fresh (it was blowing a good breeze) he would probably have
ran away from us. He proved to be the clipper ship Contest, from
Yokohama (Japan) for New York Captured him, and anchored in the open sea
in fourteen fathoms of water, and took from the prize such supplies as
we wanted. All our people having returned on board about nightfall, it
was discovered soon after that the prize was dragging her anchor, which
she did so fast in the freshened breeze that a boat which was sent to
board and fire her sculled until the officer nearly lost sight of us,
and fearing that if he continued he might lose sight of us altogether in
a rain squall, returned. Got up steam immediately and weighed anchor,
and ran down to the prize, sent a boat crew on board of her and burned
her.
* * * * *
CASE OF THE CONTEST.
Ship under United States colours and register, and no claim for cargo;
ship and cargo condemned.
* * * * *
Concluding, that on receiving intelligence of the Alabama's arrival, the
Wyoming, if, in truth, she was near the Strait, would run at once for
Gaspar Passage in search of her, Captain Semmes now determined to double
upon his enemy, and gave her the start of him, holding himself for a few
days in the Java Sea, a little east of the Strait. A week passed by
without any incident worthy of record. At length a change came.
_Thursday, November 19th_.--At 3.30 P.M. boarded the English ship
Avalanche (transferred) two or three days from Singapore, with
newspapers from England of the 10th of October--only forty days!
Gratified at the general good aspect of the news, and particularly at
our victory at Chicamauga. Reports several American ships laid up at
Singapore, and a general stagnation of American trade. This ship came to
anchor some two miles astern of us, and we sent off the prisoners of the
Contest by her, the Master consenting to take them for a chronometer
which I sent him. He will probably put them on shore at Angra Point. We
first hoisted the Dutch flag, and sent a German, Master's Mate we had,
on board of him; but the Master, when told that we were a Dutch ship of
war, said, "Oh! that won't do; I was on board of her in Liverpool, when
she was launched!"
_Friday, November 20th_.--Lowered and rigged the cutter, and sent her to
board a couple of barques, which reported four American ships at
Bankok; there about to lay up, lest they should fall in with us, and one
American ship at Manilla.
_Saturday, November 21st_.--At 3 P.M. got under way under sail, with the
wind from the south-west.
_Sunday, Nov. 22nd_.--At 3 A.M. lowered the propeller, and went ahead
under steam. Passed within about four miles of Direction Island at 5.15
P.M.
_Monday, Nov. 23rd_.--At 8 A.M. made Seraia.
_Thursday, Nov. 26th_.--Lat. 5.36; Long. 111.42, or within fifty miles
of dangerous ground, towards which the current is setting us. No
anchoring ground. 47 fathoms. After noon, the calm still continuing, let
go a kedge in 50 fathoms of water--mud--and veered to 150 fathoms.
_Friday, Nov. 27th_.--Noon. The struggle against the current is hopeless
in the death-like calm that prevails, and so we have come-to again with
the kedge.
_Sunday, Nov. 29th_.--After five days of dead calm, we took the monsoon
this morning at daylight, settling in lightly, and at 9 A.M. we got
under way, and stood to the northward and westward.
_Thursday, Dec, 3rd_.--At daylight we discovered a small vessel at
anchor near the head of the harbour of the Island of Condore, with
French colours, and awnings and other indications of her being a vessel
of war. Sent a boat in to examine water. Boat returned at 1 P.M. with
the commander of the vessel--a French vessel of war--and I was quite
surprised to learn that we had arrived in civilized waters, and that the
Island of Condore was in the possession of the French. There was a small
garrison of 50 or 60 at the village on the east side. There had been a
recent revolt of the natives, the French officers said; and for this
reason there were few vegetables or fruits to be had, and most of the
natives had betaken themselves to the mountains. Got underway and ran
into the harbour, the Frenchman politely showing me the way, and
anchored in nine fathoms. Got a spring out, so as to present our port
broadside to any enemy that might be disposed to violate neutrality,
and, to save coal, permitted all the fires to go out. A couple of ships,
running before the wind, passed in sight during the day--the ships
prudently running a little out of the track to sight the island in this
uncertain sea.
_Friday, December 4th._--The harbour is picturesque, with mountains
rising abruptly from the water to the height of 1800 feet, clothed with
dense verdure from water's edge to top, many of the trees being of large
size. The soil is very rich, but there is little cultivated land, the
mountain-sides being too steep. The French have constructed two or three
huts on the northern shore, and a couple of rude jetties, or landing
places of loose stone. Landed on one of these to get sight for the
chronometers. Found a Frenchman overseeing three or four Chinese seamen
chopping wood and thatching a hut. The French make slaves, both here and
on the mainland, of prisoners of war. The island is under the government
of an _Enseign de Vaisseau._
The Commander of the Junk is a Midshipman, so that we have gotten among
high dignitaries. Landed at noon, at an inviting little sand-beach on
the south shore, to get latitude--8° 39' 10". Found the ruined hut of a
Frenchman, with his grave close by, and his name carved on the bark of a
tree on the beach. A picturesque burial spot, amid eternal shades, with
the lullaby of the ocean.
_Saturday, December 5th._--Amused this morning, watching some sedate old
baboons sitting on the sand-beach opposite, and apparently observing the
ship very attentively. Large numbers of these caricatures of humanity
inhabit these islands; yesterday, when a boat landed, great numbers of
young ones were seen gamboling about; but one of the old ones having
called out to them, they soon all disappeared in the thick wood.
Returned the visit of the Frenchman. He is on board a miserable country
craft, of about 40 tons burthen. Sent a boat to the village on the east
side to call on the Governor, and see if we could get some fruit and
vegetables. Boat returned at nightfall. The village is a mere military
port, the native inhabitants, except a few prisoners or slaves, having
fled to the mountains, and no supplies were to be had. The Governor's
residence is a _thatched_ hut, as are all the other houses, with no
industry or taste displayed in their structure. A few patches of
cultivation were visible--rice, fruit, and cotton--the latter looking
rather unpromising. The destroyers of their rice were the monkeys. There
are several varieties of fine large pigeons here, and in abundance. They
are beautiful in feather and fat. A common variety has a green back and
golden tail. This must be a paradise for monkeys, so abundant is their
food in the forests, almost every tree bearing a fruit or nut of some
sort. These French officers had heard and believed that we sunk or
burned every ship we took, _with all on board_, and received the
Paymaster rather coolly at first, but became quite cordial when they
observed we were _Christians_, and did not commit this wholesale murder.
_Sunday, December 6th_.--Another lonely Sabbath-day--lonely, though in
the midst of one hundred and fifty people. Away, away from home, by half
the circumference of the globe! One of the most frequent and unpleasant
of my experiences since I entered the China Sea, is an _oppressive_
sense of _great_ distance from home, and the utter strangeness of
everything around me, almost as though I had entered another planet.
_Monday, December 7th_.--The commander of the island, M. Bizot, visited
me to-day. He is an agreeable and intelligent young man of twenty-four
or five years of age, and appeared very friendly and expressed sympathy
for our cause. His position is a flattering one for a man of his age and
rank, and he seems to have entered upon his duties with pride and zeal.
He brought me a chart of the island, surveyed last year. The French have
been in possession two years and a half. He spoke of my having hoisted
the English flag upon first anchoring, and seemed surprised that we had
not heard of the possession of the island by the French, which, he said,
had been notified to all the Powers. I pleasantly told him that I had
had some notion of taking possession of it myself, but that I had found
the French ahead of me. He brought down for me the welcome present of a
_pig_ and some little fruit, and told me he had a _potato patch_ on
shore, which he would share with me. Fresh provisions of all kinds are
so scarce here that I fear my generous friend has been robbing himself.
He told me that he had one hundred and forty _forçats_--slave-prisoners
--at the village, whom he meant to put to good use in constructing store
and dwelling-houses, &c. The hunters brought on board to-day an East India
bat, or vampire, measuring two feet ten inches from tip to tip of wing. Its
head resembled that of a dog or wolf more than any other animal, its teeth
being very sharp and strong. Among the curiosities of the island is a locust,
that has a whistle almost as loud as that of a railroad.
_Tuesday, Dec. 8th_.--The Commander of the Junk came on board, and
brought me a couple of fowls. The apes here are very large, and quite
fierce. They will not run from you, but come around you, and grin and
chatter at you. An officer shot one, and he died like a human being,
throwing his hands over his wound and uttering piercing cries! This
monkey was afterwards buried in the sand by his comrades, though the
interment was not quite complete when the operators were interrupted.
This is the reason why nobody ever sees a dead monkey, any more, as the
Singhalese proverb says, than a white crow or a straight cocoa-nut tree.
A curious vegetable product was brought on board to-day, it being to all
appearance a finely-made Havana cigar. The fibre is woody, covered with
a smooth bark, and the colour of dark tobacco. It comes from the tree
perfect in shape, and is not a seed-pod or fruit. One is at a loss to
conceive its use or functions. The illusion caused by its appearance is
perfect. We had no success with the sieve, the fish here being all
jumpers, and jumping out of the net.
_Wednesday, Dec. 9th_.--The excessive heat and moisture of the climate
here is very enervating. We begin to feel its effects already. It weighs
upon us like a vapour-bath, and we feel indisposed to take the least
exercise; a walk on shore of half a mile or so quite overcomes us.
_Thursday, Dec. 10th_.--At about 2.30 P.M. a French steamer passed the
Gap, going to the southward. Afterwards informed by the Commander that
it was the mail steamer from Saigon, for Singapore. The Saigon people
are expecting us there.
_Friday, Dec. 11th_.--In the afternoon the Commander and Surgeon came on
board, bringing us a _bullock_! and some vegetables.
_Sunday, Dec. 13th_.--The crew dined off the Commander's bullock to-day,
being the first meal of fresh meat since leaving Simon's Town, nearly
three months ago; and yet we have _no one_ on the sick list!
Causes--good water, temperance, strict government, and, as a
consequence, a reasonable degree of contentment, and moderate and
constant employment. The crew has had several runs on shore, too,
without the possibility of getting drunk. A present of cocoa-nuts this
morning from the Commander. This young Frenchman is very attentive to
us.
_Monday, Dec. 14th_.--To-day we applied the principle of the coffer-dam
to the replacement of the copper around our delivery or blow-pipe, some
three feet below water. The operation proved quite simple and easy of
accomplishment. Getting ready for sea. The news of our "whereabouts"
probably reached Singapore on the evening of Saturday, and it is only
two days from Singapore here, for a fast steamer; and so, whilst the
enemy, should there be one at Singapore, is coming hitherward, we must
be going thitherward to seek coal and provisions.
_Tuesday, Dec. 15th_.--At daylight got under way, under sail, and stood
out of the harbour--lighting and banking the fires. On account of our
proximity to the shore, and the very light breeze, we had barely room to
pass the point--not more than a ship's length to spare, in case we had
been obliged to let go our anchor. I felt quite nervous for a few
minutes, but held on, and we caught a light breeze that soon sent us
ahead out of danger.
Well, we are on the sea once more, with our head turned _westward_, or
_homeward_. Shall we ever reach that dear home which we left three years
ago, and which we have yearned after so frequently since? Will it be
battle, or shipwreck, or both, or neither? And when we reach the North
Atlantic, will it still be war, or peace? When will the demon-like
passions of the North be stilled? These are solemn and interesting
questions for us, and an all-wise Providence has kindly hidden the
answers behind the curtain of Fate. A lengthened cruise would not be
politic in these warm seas. The homeward trade of the enemy is now quite
small--reduced probably to twenty or thirty ships per year; and these
may easily evade us by taking the different passages to the Indian
Ocean, of which there are so many, and so widely separated. The foreign
coasting trade (as between one port in China and another, and the trade
to and from Calcutta and to and from Australia), besides facilities for
escape, are almost beyond our reach--at least we could only ransom the
ship, the cargoes being all neutral--that is to say, _such of them as
get cargoes, now not many_. And then there is no cruising or chasing to
be done here successfully, or with safety to oneself, without plenty of
coal; and we can only rely upon coaling once in three months at some
English port. At the other ports there would probably be combinations
made against us, through the influence of the Yankee Consuls. So I will
try my luck around the Cape of Good Hope once more; then to the coast of
Borneo; and thence perhaps to Barbadoes, for coal; and thence---? If the
war be not ended, my ship will need to go into dock, to have much of her
copper replaced, now nearly destroyed by such constant cruising, and to
have her boilers overhauled and repaired; and this can only be properly
done in Europe. Our young officers, who had had so agreeable a change
from the cramped ship to the shores and forests of Condore, with their
guns and their books, had become so attached to the island that they
left it with some regret.