_Again ready--Gloomy weather--A Norther--The Arcas--The
second Christmas at sea--The war--Plymouth rock leaven--On
the lonely island--"Splicing the main-brace"--Searching for shells--Tired
of hard service--In irons--Well disciplined--A phenomenon--The
new year--In memoriam--To sea again_.
The exciting episode of the Ariel was followed by a period altogether
devoid of incident, though by no means destitute either
of interest or anxiety for those on board the Alabama. From
daybreak to dusk the click of the hammer, and the shrill screaming
of the file, arose incessantly from the engine room, as the
engineer and his staff laboured without a pause to repair the
damage to the machinery. The task proved even longer than
had been anticipated, and it was not until the afternoon of the
third day that the mischief had been finally remedied, and the
Alabama was pronounced in a condition to resume with safety her
destructive career.
Meanwhile, a brighter look-out than ever was kept from her mastheads.
There was still a possibility--though but a slight one--of
falling in with the homeward-bound Californian, for which they
had been waiting so long and so anxiously; whilst it was more
than ever necessary to care against surprise from any of the
enemy's cruisers, who might fairly be expected to be in considerable
force somewhere in the neighbourhood.
The northern shores of Jamaica, however, off which the Alabama
was now lying, standing along the coast, under easy sail
during the day, and at night laying her maintopsail to the mast,
appeared to be but little frequented by vessels of any kind, and
the cruiser was permitted to carry on her repairs without a single
interruption in the way of either a chase, or a call to quarters.
And it was perhaps as well that such an interval of rest should
have been afforded after the severe strain of the previous few
days. For Captain Semmes, at all events, it was a great boon,
for on that officer's never very robust constitution, the continued
anxiety and constant night-calls on deck, in wind and rain, had
had a very serious effect, and he was fairly laid up with cold and
fever.
The evening of Friday, December the 12th, saw the repairs of
the machinery of the vessel completed, the Alabama being at,
nightfall about opposite to the little town of St. Anne's. That
evening the crew were exercised at quarters; and the next day,
after a thorough cleaning of the decks, &c., the vessel ran away
to the westward of the Island of Jamaica, _en route_ for another
point of rendezvous, at which to take in fresh coal, and other
needful supplies.
* * * * *
_Saturday, December 13th._--... Nothing in sight, and
I intend to see nothing--unless it be a homeward-bound Californian
steamer--at present, as it is important I should make the
run I contemplate without being traced. I should have much
liked to touch at the Caymans for fruit and vegetables for the
crew, but forbear on this account.
* * * * *
_Monday, December 15th.--_Fresh trade, ship rolling along under
topsails. This running down, down, the ever-constant trade
wind--to run _up_ against it, by and by, under steam--is not very
pleasant. Still, God willing, I hope to strike a blow of some importance,
and make my way safely out of the Gulf.
_Wednesday, December 17th._--The wind blew quite fresh during
the night from about N.E. by N. To-day it is blowing a moderate
gale from about N.N.E. This is probably a _norther_ from the
American coast, modified by its contact with the N.E. trade wind.
The clouds look hard and wintry. Close-reefed at nightfall....
The gale has continued all day, with a rough sea, in
which the ship is rolling and tumbling about. Weather cloudy
and gloomy-looking, and the wind moaning and whistling through
the rigging--enough to give one the blues. These are some of
the comforts of sea-going, and we have had our share of them in
the Alabama.
_Thursday, December 18th._--The gale continues, with dense
clouds in every direction obscuring the heavens so that we get no
meridian altitude. I got a glimpse of the sun at about nine minutes
past noon. When one's ship is in a doubtful position, how
eagerly and nervously one watches the shifting clouds near noon,
and how remorsely they sometimes close up their dense masses
just at the critical moment, shutting out from us the narrowly-watched
face of the sun! One is foolish enough sometimes almost
to feel a momentary resentment against inanimate nature--weak
mortals that we are!
The gale has drifted us so far to leeward that the wind from its
present quarter will no longer permit us to "lay through" the
Yucatan passage, so at 2 P.M. we tacked to the southward and
eastward. Weather still thick in the afternoon, with light rain at
intervals. We had a very ugly sea lashing us this morning--the
ship rolling so heavily as to awaken me frequently, though I sleep
in a swinging cot; and the water swashing over the decks, and
rushing by bucketsful down the companion-way, which we are
obliged to keep open to avoid being smothered.
_Friday, December 19th._--The gale continues with the tenacity
of a norther, this being the third day. This is but a foretaste of
the weather we may expect in the Gulf of Mexico. Being now in
the Gulf of Honduras, there is but a small strip of land between us
and it.
_Saturday, December 20th._--As ugly a day as one often sees,
with a great variety of wind and weather. In the morning the
wind was fresh from the N.E., with flying clouds, and a bright
sun, now and then obscured. At about 9 A.M. a cloud bank in
the north began to rise, and by 11.30 we had a densely overcast
sky, with heavy rain-squalls. I was running for Cape Catoche,
and was greatly disappointed at not getting a meridian altitude,
especially after the promise of the morning. At about 11.30
made the land--two islands, as described by the man at the masthead.
At 4 P.M. sounded in twenty-eight fathoms. Weather threatening a gale.
At six, double-reefed the topsails, and sounded in twenty-five fathoms.
I shall endeavour to feel my way around the Cape, and gradually bear up
for the westward. The bank is apparently clean and safe, but still
groping one's way in the dark in strange waters is a somewhat nervous operation.
_Sunday, December 21st_.--We doubled Cape Catoche very successfully
last night, hauling around it gradually in from twenty-five
to thirty fathoms, and ran along in the latter depth all night,
course W. and W. by S., sounding every hour. The wind blew
half a gale, and the weather looked threatening. This morning
the wind hauled more to the eastward, and moderated somewhat.
The sky still looks wintry, and the sun sheds a lurid light through
a semi-transparent stratum of dull grey clouds. At 11 A.M. mustered
the crews and at meridian passed a large steamer (hull down)
steering to the eastward, probably a French ship of war from Vera
Cruz.
_Monday, December 22nd._--Ran on during the night in a very
regular line of soundings of twenty fathoms, on a W.S.W. course.
At 9 P.M., having run within about twenty miles of the Areas,
anchored for the night in twenty fathoms.
_Tuesday, December 23rd._--At 9 A.M. called all hands up anchor;
and at ten we were under way, steering W.S.W.; at meridian
observed six miles to the northward of the Areas, and altered
course to S.W. At 1.30 P.M. made the Areas half a point on the
starboard-bow, distant about twelve miles; and at sunset came
to anchor in eleven fathoms of water, with the south Area bearing
N.W. by N. In the course of the afternoon our coal-ship,
which I had ordered to rendezvous here, hove in sight, and joined
us at the anchorage a few minutes after we came to.
_Wednesday, December 24th._--In the forenoon went out of the
harbour, and examined the entrances and anchorage. The dangers
are all visible, and it is only necessary to give a berth to the
reefs that make off from the points. There is an inner reef making
off to the westward from the northern island; but it, like the
other, is visible, and there is no danger whatever in approaching
it. The Areas are three low keys, lying in a triangle; the northern
key being the largest. We found a hut on this latter key, a
boat hauled up on the island, a net inside the hut, a boiler or two
for trying out oil, and other evidences of the inhabitancy of fishermen
or turtlers; but this not being the season for these pursuits,
everything had apparently been abandoned for some time.
Numerous birds of the gull species were the only living things
found in the island, and of these there were varieties of old birds
and their fledglings, and some of the former were still laying and
sitting. They seemed to have no fear of our men, and suffered
themselves to be caught by the hand, and knocked on the head
with sticks. The vegetation found was on the larger island, and
on that it consisted of a dense carpeting of sea-kale--not a shrub
of any kind. In the transparent waters on the inner reef, a great
variety of the living coral was found in all its beauty, imitating
the growth of the forest on a small scale. At P.M. we got
under way, and stood in and anchored under the south side of the
larger island in nine fathoms, and moored ship with an open
hawse to the north.
We entered by the S.E. passage between the south and the
north islands. The barque followed us, coming in by the S.W.
passage between the south and the west islands, and anchored a
little to the S.E. of us. Our anchorage is open to the S.E., but at
this season it does not blow from that quarter, and probably
would not bring in much sea if it did. We feel very comfortable
to-night in snug berth.
_Thursday, December 25th_.--Christmas-day!--the second Christmas
since we left our homes in the Sumter. Last year we were
buffeting the storms of the North Atlantic, near the Azores; now
we are snugly anchored, in the Arcas: and how many eventful
periods have passed in the interval! Our poor people have been
terribly pressed in this wicked and ruthless war, and they have
borne privations and sufferings which nothing but an intense patriotism
could have sustained. They will live in history as a people
worthy to be free; and future generations will be astonished at
the folly and fanaticism, wickedness and want of principle, developed
by this war among the Puritan population of the North. And in this class
may nine-tenths of the native population of the Northern States be placed,
to such an extent has the "Plymouth Rock" leaven "leavened the whole lump."
A people so devoid of Christian charity, and wanting in so many of the
essentials of honesty, cannot but be abandoned to their own folly by a just and
benevolent God.
Our crew is keeping Christmas by a run on shore, which they
all seem to enjoy exceedingly. It is, indeed, very grateful to the
senses to ramble about over even so confined a space as the Arcas,
after tossing about at sea in a continued state of excitement for
months. Yesterday was the first time I touched the shore since I
left Liverpool on the 18th August last, and I was only one week
in Liverpool after a voyage of three weeks from the Bahamas; so
that I have in fact been but one week on shore in five months.
My thoughts naturally turn on this quiet Christmas-day, in this
lonely island, to my dear family. I can only hope, and trust them
to the protection of a merciful Providence. The only sign of a
holiday on board to-night is the usual "splicing of the
main-brace"--_Anglicè_, giving Jack an extra allowance of grog.
_Friday, December 26th._--* * * Weather fine, but the barometer
has gone down the tenth of an inch to day, and is now (7 P.M.)
29.96. I shall begin to look for a norther in about twenty-four
hours. We commenced caulking our leaky decks to-day, and
despatched the launch to assist in ballasting the barque. I strolled
on the islands to-day, and amused myself searching for shells along
the beach. There are some very pretty diminutive shells to be
found, similar to those on the Florida coast; but none of a larger
size than the common "conch," of which there are a few. We
have made free with the turtle nets of the fishermen found in the
huts, and have set them. As yet, we have only caught two or three
small turtle. I landed on the south island to-day, where they are
getting off ballast. This islet is occupied exclusively by the black
man-of-war bird; whilst the north islet seems to be divided between
the white gannet (with the lower edges of its wings black)
and the black warrior; the colonies being quite distinct. The
birds are still laying and incubating.
_Saturday, December 27th_.--The barometer has risen again, and
the weather still continues fine. Ballasting the barque, and overhauling
and setting up our topmast and lower rigging, and caulking
decks. Took a stroll in the north island towards sunset. It is
dull recreation after the novelty has worn off, with the somewhat
tough walking through the sand, and the smell and filth of the
clouds of gannet.
_Sunday, December 28th_.--Weather cloudy, with the wind from
the N.E. At 8.30 descried a schooner from aloft in the N.W., the
first sail we have seen, and quite an unexpected sight at this season
of the year. After we had armed and manned the cutter, to
board the sail when it should heave in sight from the deck, it was
ascertained that the look out had been deceived, and that the supposed
sail was probably a cloud in the horizon, it having suddenly
disappeared.
At 11 A.M. mustered the crew and inspected the ship. A quiet
Sabbath. Strolled on the island towards sunset, with the gannets
for companions, the surf for music, and the heavy sand for a promenade.
The weather cleared at nightfall, with the breeze fresh
from the N.N.E. Some of the men are getting tired of their hard
service; the chief boatswain's-mate having applied to return to
England in the barque. Refused him permission, of course. Constant
cruising, vigilance against being surprised by the enemy,
salt provisions, and a deprivation of the pleasures of port, so
dear to the heart of a seaman, are probably what most of them
did not expect. A tight rein and plenty of work will cure the
evil.
_Monday, December 29th_.--Weather clear and fine. At daylight
hauled the barque alongside, and commenced coaling. Another
seaman got drunk to-day, and seized his bag to go on board
the barque to return to England. Confined him in double irons.
Many of my fellows no doubt thought they were shipping in a
sort of privateer, where they would have a jolly good time and
plenty of license. They have been wofully disappointed, for I
have jerked them down with a strong hand, and now have a well-disciplined
ship of war, punishment _invariably_ follows immediately
on the heels of the offence. It has taken me three or four months
to accomplish this, but when it is considered that my little kingdom
consisted of one hundred and ten of the most reckless from
the groggeries of Liverpool, this is not much.
_Tuesday, December 30th_.--The weather still continues remarkably
fine, with a moderate breeze from the E.S.E. We finished coaling to-day,
and hauled the barque off in the afternoon. Getting ready generally for
our dash at the enemy's coasts; or rather, at the enemy on our own coasts,
of which he is in possession. A brig hove in sight to-day to the S. and E.,
approaching the islands on the starboard tack, until she became
visible from the bridge, and then tacking--probably a Frenchman,
making way from Vera Cruz to the eastward on the banks.
Took my usual afternoon stroll on shore. About nightfall, the
sky assumes a peculiarly lurid aspect, becoming dark overhead,
whilst the western horizon is lighted up with the rays of the setting
sun, although there is not a cloud visible. One witnessing
such a scene elsewhere would fancy himself on the eve of a storm;
I attribute it to the reflection from the green waters of the bank.
We have cleared away all the old eggs from the gannets' nests,
and these prolific layers are now supplying us with fresh. Of fish
we can catch none, except by trolling. We have no better success
with our turtle nets.
_Wednesday, December 31st_.--The weather has been good all
day, though we have had a heavy surf on all the reefs, indicating
that there is a gale somewhere in our vicinity--probably a norther,
along the Mexican coast to the west of us. The wind is at N.N.E.
and moderate, and the barometer has been rising all day, though
it has not been a tenth below 30.21; it is now (4 P.M.) 30.15, so
we shall probably not feel the gale here.
_Thursday, January 1st_.--The first day of the new year.
What will it bring forth? The Almighty for a wise purpose hides
future events from the eyes of mortals, and all we can do is to perform
well our parts, and trust the rest to His guidance. Success,
as a general rule, attends him who is vigilant and active. It is
useful to look back on the first day of the new year and see how
we have spent the past; what errors we have committed, and of
what faults we have been guilty, that we may in the future avoid
the one and reform the other.
Although the wind blew pretty fresh during the past night, we
did not feel the gale in any force; and to-day it has moderated,
and the weather become fine again. Still caulking and painting.
The former seems to be an interminable job with our small gang
of caulkers. In the afternoon a brig approached the island, near
enough to be seen, hull up, from the deck. She was beating up
the bank to the eastward probably from Vera Cruz.
_Friday, January 2nd_.--The wind has been fresh all day from
the eastward, bringing in some sea, and as we have been riding
across the tide, the ship has had some motion. Caulking and
painting, tarring down and squaring ratlines, &c. Commenced
condensing water to supply the barque for her return voyage to
England. I must get to sea on Tuesday, though I fear we shall
not have finished caulking; but Banks' expedition must be assembling
off Galveston, and time is of importance to us if we would
strike a blow at it before it is all landed. My men will rebel a little
yet. I was obliged to-day to trice one of them up for a little insolent
behaviour.
_Saturday, January 3d_.--A gale opened after all from the S.E.,
which I had hoped to escape, so rare is it to have blows from this
quarter at this season of the year. We have veered to forty-five
fathoms on each chain, and are in six fathoms water astern (there
being nine where the anchors are), and are tailing directly on the
surf, with a few hundred feet only between us and it, which of
course makes me feel a little solicitude. We are open to the S.E.
winds, though these blow over the bank from landwards. Still
the water is deep and the land distant, and a considerable sea comes
in. I have ordered the fires to be lighted under another boiler to
guard against accidents. The Arcas are a dirty little anchorage
for large ships, being but an open roadstead, affording good shelter
only from the north. There is a very small basin between the two
reefs, running off from the northern island, fit for very small vessels,
where they could be made secure against northerly and southerly
winds; but everywhere they would be exposed more or less
to wind from the westward.
_Sunday, January 4th_.--Weather clear, with the wind fresh
from the S.E., dying away in the afternoon. Having determined
to get to sea this evening, we commenced getting our coal-bags on
board from the barque, omitting the usual Sunday muster. Busy
with the seamen, as usual on such occasions, sending home their
allotments, &c. The weather begins to portend a norther, so I
have directed the engineer to hold on with his steam for the present.
_Monday, January 5th_.--It did not blow last night as I expected.
This morning the wind has gone round again. I cannot wait
longer for the norther,[10] so I must get under way. At 11 A.M.
got under way, and stood out from the anchorage under steam.
Let the steam go down, hoisted the propeller, and put the ship
under sail.
[Footnote 10: One of the officers of the Alabama enters in his journal
that on this day, in anticipation of news being received of Lincoln's
proclamation, a tombstone, consisting of a board about four feet in
length and two in breadth, was sent on shore and placed in the most
prominent position the largest island afforded. Inscribed on the tombstone,
in black letters on a white ground, was the following:--"In memory of
Abraham Lincoln, President of the late United States, who died of nigger
on the brain, 1st January, 1863."--"No. 290." Upon a piece of paper,
protected from the weather, was written in Spanish--"Will the finder
kindly favour me by forwarding this tablet to the United States Consul,
at the first point he touches at?" This affair originated with, and was
executed by, the steerage officers.]