THE WHITE-FISH FISHERIES.
Difficulty of obtaining Statistics of our White-Fish
Fisheries—Ignorance of the Natural History of the White Fish—“Finnan
Haddies”—The Gadidæ Family: the Cod, Whiting, etc.—The Turbot and
other Flat Fish—When Fish are in Season—How the White-Fish Fisheries
are carried on—The Cod and Haddock Fishery—Line-Fishing—The Scottish
Fishing Boats—Loss of Boats on the Scottish Coasts—Storms in
Scotland—Trawl-Net Fishing—Description of a Trawler—Evidence on the
Trawl Question.
It is among the white fish, as they are called, that we find the chief
food-fishes of this kingdom—as the haddock, cod, whiting, ling, sole,
flounder, turbot, and skate,—all of which, and about a dozen others
(not including the mackerel), equally good for food, belong to two
well-known fish families—Gadidæ and Pleuronectidæ—and give employment
in their capture to the two best-known instruments of destruction, the
line and the trawl.
It is exceedingly difficult to procure reliable statistics of the
total quantity of fish taken in the British seas. These can only be
obtained in a crude way from the fishermen, there being no tally kept
by the salesman, except of a rough kind. I made some inquiries into
the London fish supply at Billingsgate, but they were unsatisfactory,
as there is no register kept there of the quantity sold. Each of the
wholesale men can give an idea of the total number or quantity of fish
consigned to him; but even if the whole body of salesmen were to give
such statistics, it would only, after all, represent a portion of
the London supply, because much of the fish required for the London
commissariat is sent direct by railway to private dealers. But London,
although it requires a very large total of fish, seldom obtains all
that its citizens could eat, nor does it by any means get all that are
captured, or that are imported. Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool,
and other large towns in England; and Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dundee, and
Aberdeen, in Scotland, require likewise to be supplied. And besides
this home demand, we send considerable quantities of our white fish to
the Continent, especially in a dried or prepared state. The fishermen
of the Shetland Isles, for instance, cure largely for the Spanish and
other Continental markets. Finnan haddocks and pickled cod can be so
prepared as to bear shipment to a long distance, and kippered salmon
are found on sale everywhere, as are also pickled and smoked herrings.
The natural history of our white fish, as I have already said, is but
imperfectly known. As an instance of the very limited knowledge we
possess of the natural history of even our most favourite fishes, I
may state that at a meeting of the British Association a few years
ago, a member who read an interesting paper _On the Sea Fisheries
of Ireland_, introduced specimens of a substance which the Irish
fishermen considered to be spawn of the turbot; stating that wherever
this substance was found trawling was forbidden; the supposed spawn
being in reality a kind of sponge, with no other relation to fish
except as being indicative of beds of mollusca, the abundance of which
marks that fish are plentiful. It follows that the stoppage of the
trawl on the grounds where this kind of squid is found is the result
of sheer ignorance, and causes the loss in all likelihood of great
quantities of the best white fish. It is not easy to say when the
Gadidæ are in proper season. Some of the members of that family are
used for table purposes all the year round; and as different salmon
rivers have their different close-times, so undoubtedly will the white
fish of different seas or firths have different spawning seasons. In
reference, for instance, to so important a fish as the turbot, we are
very vaguely told by Yarrell that it spawns in the spring-time, but
have no indication of the particular month during which that important
operation takes place, or how long the young fish take to grow. Even a
naturalist so well informed as the late Mr. Wilson was of opinion that
the turbot was a travelling fish, which migrated from place to place.
The combined ignorance of naturalists and fishermen has much to do with
the scarcity of white fish which is now beginning to be experienced;
and unless some plan be hit upon to prevent overfishing, we may some
fine morning experience the same astonishment as a country gentleman’s
cook, who had given directions to the gamekeeper to supply the kitchen
regularly with a certain quantity of grouse. For a number of years she
found no lack, but in the end the purveyor threw down the prescribed
number, and told her she need look for no more from him, for on
that day the last grouse had been shot. “There they are,” said the
gamekeeper, “and it has taken six of us with a gun apiece to get them,
and after all we have only achieved the labour which was gone through
by one man some years ago.” The cook had unfortunately never considered
the relation between guns and grouse.
The Gadidæ family is numerous, and its members are valuable for
table purposes; three of the fishes of that genus are particularly
in request—viz. whiting, cod, and haddock. These are the three most
frequently eaten in a fresh state; there are others of the family
which are extensively captured for the purpose of being dried and
salted, among which are the ling, the tusk, etc. The haddock (_Morrhua
aylefinus_) has ever been a favourite fish, and the quantities of it
which are annually consumed are really wonderful. Vast numbers used to
be taken in the Firth of Forth, but from recent inquiries at Newhaven
I am led to believe that the supply has considerably decreased of late
years, and that the local fishermen have to proceed to considerable
distances in order to procure any quantity.
In reference to the question, “Where are the haddocks?” which is asked
on another page, it is right to say that this prime fish has more than
once become scarce. I have been reminded of a time, in 1790, when
three of these fish were sold for 7s. 6d. in the Edinburgh market; but
although there have been from time to time sudden disappearances of
the haddock from particular fishing-grounds, as indeed there have been
of all fish, that is a different, a totally different matter from what
the fisher folk and the public have now to complain of—viz. a yearly
decreasing supply. Mr. Grieve, of the Café Royal, Edinburgh, tells me
that this season (August 1865), he is paying ninepence each for these
fish, and is very glad to get them even at that price. I took part in
a newspaper controversy about the scarcity of the haddock, and I found
plenty of opponents ready to maintain that there was no scarcity, but
that any quantity could be captured. In some degree that is the truth,
but what is the hook-power required now to capture, “any quantity,”
and how long does it take to obtain a given number, as compared with
former times, when that fish was supposed to be more plentiful? Why do
we require, for instance, to send to Norway and other distant places
for haddocks and other white fish? the only answer I can imagine is
that we cannot get enough at home. As to the general scarcity of
white fish, the late Mr. Methuen, the fish-curer, wrote a year or two
ago:—“This morning I am told that an Edinburgh fishmonger has bought
all the cod brought into Newhaven at 5s. to 7s. each. I recollect
when I cured thousands of cod at 3d. and 4d. each; they were caught
between Burntisland and Kincardine, on which ground not a cod is now to
be got; and at the great cod emporium of Cellardyke, the cod-fishing,
instead of three score for a boat’s fishing, has dwindled down to about
half-a-dozen cod.”
[Illustration: THE GADIDÆ FAMILY.]
The old belief in the migratory habits of fish comes again into notice
in connection with the haddock. Pennant having taught us that the
haddock appeared periodically in great quantities about mid-winter,
that theory is still believed, although the appearance of this fish
in shoals may be easily explained, from the local habits of most of
the denizens of the great deep. It is said that “in stormy weather,
the haddock refuses every kind of bait, and seeks refuge among marine
plants in the deepest parts of the ocean, where it remains until the
violence of the elements is somewhat subsided.” This fish does not grow
to any great size; it usually averages about five pounds. I prefer it
as a table fish to the cod; the very best haddocks are taken on the
coast of Ireland. The scarcity of fresh haddocks may in some degree
be accounted for by the immense quantities which are converted into
“Finnan haddies”—a well-known breakfast luxury no longer confined to
Scotland. It is difficult to procure genuine Finnans, smoked in the
original way by means of peat-reek; like everything else for which
there is a great demand, Finnan haddocks are now “manufactured” in
quantity; and, to make the trade a profitable one, they are cured by
the hundred in smoking-houses built for the purpose, and are smoked by
burning wood or sawdust, which, however, does not give them the proper
_goût_. In fact the wood-smoked Finnans, except that they are fish,
have no more the right flavour than Scotch marmalade would have were it
manufactured from turnips instead of bitter oranges. Fifty years ago
it was different; then the haddocks were smoked in small quantities
in the fishing villages between Aberdeen and Stonehaven, and entirely
over a peat fire. The peat-reek imparted to them that peculiar flavour
which gained them a reputation. The fisher-wives along the north-east
coast used to pack small quantities of these delicately-cured fish
into a basket, and give them to the guard of the “Defiance” coach,
which ran between Aberdeen and Edinburgh, and the guard brought them
to town, confiding them for sale to a brother who dealt in provisions;
and it is known that out of the various transactions which thus arose,
individually small though they must have been, the two made, in the
course of time, a handsome profit. The fame of the smoked fish rapidly
spread, so that cargoes used to be brought by steamboat, and Finnans
are now carried by railway to all parts of the country with great
celerity, the demand being so great as to induce men to foist on the
public any kind of cure they can manage to accomplish; indeed smoked
codlings are extensively sold for Finnan haddocks. Good smoked haddocks
of the Moray Firth or Aberdeen cure can seldom now be had, even in
Edinburgh, under the price of sixpence per pound weight.
The common cod (_Morrhua vulgaris_) is, as the name implies, one of our
best-known fishes, and it was at one time very plentiful and cheap. It
is found in the deep waters of all our northern seas, but has never
been known in the Mediterranean. It has been largely captured on the
coasts of Scotland, and, as is elsewhere mentioned, it occurs in
profusion on the shores of Newfoundland, where its plentifulness led to
a great fishery being established. The cod is extremely voracious, and
eats up most greedily the smaller inhabitants of the seas; it grows to
a large size, and is very prolific in the perpetuation of its kind. A
cod-roe has more than once been found to be half the gross weight of
the fish, and specimens of the female have been caught with upwards
of eight millions of eggs; but of course it cannot be expected that
in the great waste of waters all the ova will be fertilised, or that
any but a small percentage of the fish will ever arrive at maturity.
This fish spawns in mid-winter, but there are no very reliable data
to show when it becomes reproductive. My own opinion has already been
expressed that the cod is an animal of slow growth, and I would venture
to say that it is at least three years old before it is endowed with
any breeding power. I may call attention here to one of the causes that
must tend to render the fish scarce. As if the natural enemies of the
young fish were not sufficient to aid in its extirpation, and the loss
of the ova from causes over which man has no control not enough in
the way of destruction, there is a commerce in cod-roe, and enormous
quantities of it, as I have mentioned in the preceding chapter, are
used in France as ground-bait for the sardine fishery! The roe of this
fish is also frequently made use of at table; a cod-roe of from two to
four pounds in weight can unfortunately be bought for a mere trifle,
but it ought to cost a good few pounds instead of a few pence. I have
elsewhere stated that the quantity of eggs yielded by a female cod is
more than three millions: supposing only a third of them to come to
life—that is one million—and that a tenth part of that number, viz. one
hundred thousand, becomes in some shape—that is, either as codling or
cod—fit for table uses, what should be the value of the cod-roe that
is carelessly consumed at table? If each fish be taken as of the value
of sixpence, the amount would be £2500. But supposing that only twenty
full-grown codfish resulted from the three millions of eggs; these, at
two and sixpence each, would represent the sum of fifty shillings as
the possible produce of one dish, which, in the shape of cod-roe, cost
only about as many farthings!
Cuvier tells us that “almost all the parts of the cod are adapted for
the nourishment of man and animals, or for some other purposes of
domestic economy. The tongue, for instance, whether fresh or salted,
is a great delicacy; the gills are carefully preserved, to be employed
as baits in fishing; the liver, which is large and good for eating,
also furnishes an enormous quantity of oil, which is an excellent
substitute for that of the whale, and applicable to all the same
purposes; the swimming-bladder furnishes an isinglass not inferior to
that yielded by the sturgeon; the head, in the places where the cod
is taken, supplies the fishermen and their families with food. The
Norwegians give it with marine plants to their cows, for the purpose
of producing a greater proportion of milk. The vertebræ, the ribs, and
the bones in general, are given to their cattle by the Icelanders,
and by the Kamtschatkadales to their dogs. These same parts, properly
dried, are also employed as fuel in the desolate steppes of the shores
of the Icy Sea. Even their intestines and their eggs contribute to the
luxury of the table.” I may just mention another most useful product
of the codfish. Cod-liver oil is now well known in _materia medica_
under the name of _oleum jecoris aselli_. The best is made without
boiling, by applying to the livers a slight degree of heat, straining
through thin flannel or similar texture. When carefully prepared, it
is quite pure, nearly inodorous, and of a crystalline transparency.
The specific gravity at temperature 64° is about ·920°. It seems to
have been first used medicinally by Dr. Percival in 1782 for the cure
of chronic rheumatism; afterwards by Dr. Bardsly in 1807. It has now
become a popular remedy in all the slow-wasting diseases, particularly
in scrofulous affections of the joints and bones, and in consumption
of the lungs. The result of an extended trial of this medicine in the
hospital at London for the treatment of consumptive patients shows that
about 70 per cent gain strength and weight, and improve in health,
while taking the cod-liver oil; and this good effect with a great many
is permanent. Skate-liver oil is also coming into use for medicinal
purposes, and I have no doubt that the oil obtained from some of our
other fishes will also be found useful in a medicinal point of view.
The codfish is best when eaten fresh, but vast quantities are sent to
market in a dried or cured state: the great seat of the cod-fishery for
curing purposes is at Newfoundland. But considerable numbers of cod and
ling are likewise cured on the coasts of Scotland. The mode of cure
is quite simple. The fish must be cured as soon as possible after it
has been caught. A few having been brought on shore, they are at once
split up from head to tail, and by copious washings thoroughly cleansed
from all particles of blood. A piece of the backbone being cut away,
they are then drained, and afterwards laid down in long vats, covered
with salt, heavy weights being placed upon them to keep them thoroughly
under the action of the pickle. By and by the fish are taken out of the
vat, and are once more drained, being at the same time carefully washed
and brushed to prevent the collection of any kind of impurity. Next
the fish are _pined_ by exposure to the sun and air; in other words,
they are bleached by being spread out individually on the sandy beach,
or upon such rocks or stones as may be convenient. After this process
has been gone through the fish are then collected into little heaps,
which are technically called _steeples_. When the _bloom_, or whitish
appearance which after a time they assume, comes out on the dried fish
the process is finished, and they are then quite ready for market. The
consumption of dried cod or ling is very large, and extends over the
whole globe; vast quantities are prepared for the religious communities
of Continental Europe, who make use of it on the fast-days instituted
by the Roman Catholic Church.
Besides the common cod, there are the dorse (_M. callarias_), and the
poor or power cod (_M. minuta_), also the bib or pout (_M. lusca_).
The whiting (_Merlangus vulgaris_) is another of our delicious
table-fishes, which is found in comparative plenty on the British
coasts. This fish is by some thought to be superior to all the other
Gadidæ. Very little is known of its natural history. It deposits its
spawn in March, and the eggs are not long in hatching—about forty days,
I think, varying, however, with the temperature of the season. Before
and after shedding its milt or roe the whiting is out of condition,
and should not be taken for a couple of months. The whiting prefers a
sandy bottom, and is usually found a few miles from the shore, its food
being much the same as that of other fishes of the family to which it
belongs. It is a smallish fish, usually about twelve inches long, and
on the average two pounds in weight.
I need scarcely refer to the other members of the Gadidæ: they are
numerous and useful, but, generally speaking, their characteristics are
common and have been sufficiently detailed.[11] I will now, therefore,
say a few words about the Pleuronectidæ. There are upwards of a dozen
kinds of flat fish that are popular for table purposes. One of these is
a very large fish known as the holibut (_Hippoglopus vulgaris_), which
has been found in the northern seas to attain occasionally a weight
of from three to four hundred pounds. One of this species of fish of
extraordinary size was brought to the Edinburgh market in April 1828;
it was seven feet and a half long, and upwards of three feet broad, and
it weighed three hundred and twenty pounds! The flavour of the holibut
is not very delicate, although it has been frequently mistaken for
turbot by those not conversant with fish history.
The true turbot (_Rhombus maximus_) is the especial delight of
aldermanic epicures, and fabulous sums are said to have been given
at different times by rich persons in order to secure a turbot for
their dinner-table. This fine fish is, or rather used to be, largely
taken on our own coasts; but now we have to rely upon more distant
fishing-grounds for a large portion of our supply. The old complaint
of our ignorance of fish habits must be again reiterated here, for it
is not long since it was supposed that the turbot was a migratory fish
that might be caught at one place to-day and at another to-morrow.
The late Mr. Wilson, who ought to have known better, said, in writing
about this fish:—“The English markets are largely supplied from the
various sandbanks which lie between our eastern coasts and Holland. The
Dutch turbot-fishery begins about the end of March, a few leagues to
the south of Scheveling. The fish _proceed_ northwards as the season
advances, and in April and May are found in great shoals upon the
banks called the Broad Forties. Early in June they surround the island
of Heligoland, where the fishery continues to the middle of August,
and then terminates for the year. At the beginning of the season the
trawl-net is chiefly used; but on the occurrence of warm weather the
fish retire to deeper water, and to banks of rougher ground, where the
long line is indispensable.”
[Illustration: THE PLEURONECTIDÆ FAMILY.
1. Flounder. 2. Turbot. 3. Plaice. 4. Sole. 5. Dab.]
The turbot was well known in ancient gastronomy: the luxurious Italians
used it extensively, and christened it the sea-pheasant from its fine
flavour. In the gastronomic days of ancient Rome the wealthy patricians
were very extravagant in the use of all kinds of fish; so much so that
it was said by a satirist that
“Great turbots and the soup-dish led
To shame at last and want of bread.”
The turbot is very common on the English and Scottish coasts, and
is known also on the shores of Greece and Italy. This fish is taken
chiefly by means of the trawl-net, but in some places it is fished
for by well-baited lines. We derive large quantities of our turbot
from Holland, so much as £100,000 having been paid to the Dutch in
one year for the quantity of these fish which were brought to London,
and on which, at one time, a duty of £6 per boat was exigible. This
fish spawns during the autumn, and is in fine condition for table use
during the spring and early summer. Yarrell says the turbot spawns in
the spring; but, with due respect, I think he is wrong; I would not,
however, be positive about this, for there will no doubt be individuals
of the turbot kind, as there are of all other kinds, that will spawn
all the year round. The turbot is a great flat fish. In Scotland, from
its shape, it is called “the bannock-fluke.” It is about twenty inches
long, and broad in proportion; and a prime fish of this species will
weigh from four to eight pounds.
The best-known fish of the Pleuronectidæ is the sole (_Solea
vulgaris_), which is largely distributed in all our seas, and used in
immense quantities in London and elsewhere. The sole is too well known
to require any description at my hands. It is caught by means of the
trawl-net, and is in good season for a great number of months. Soles
of a moderate weight are best for the table. I prefer such as weigh
from three to five pounds per pair. I have been told, by those who
ought to know best, that the deeper the water from which it is taken
the better the sole. It is quite a ground fish, and inhabits the sandy
places round the coast, feeding on the minor crustacea, and on the
spawn and young of various kinds of fish. Good supplies of this popular
fish are taken on the west coast of England, and they are said to be
very plentiful in the Irish seas; indeed all kinds of fish are said
to inhabit the waters that surround the Emerald Isle. There can be no
doubt of this, at any rate, that the fishing on the Irish coasts has
never been so vigorously prosecuted as on the coasts of Scotland and
England—so that there has been a greater chance for the best kinds of
white fish to thrive and multiply. Seaside visitors would do well to go
on board some of the trawlers and observe the mode of capture. There is
no more interesting way of passing a seaside holiday than to watch or
take a slight share in the industry of the neighbourhood where one may
be located.
The smaller varieties of the flat fish—such as Muller’s top-knot, the
flounder, whiff, dab, plaice, etc.—I need not particularly notice,
except to say that immense quantities of them are annually consumed in
London and other cities. Mr. Mayhew, in some of his investigations,
found out that upwards of 33,000,000 of plaice were annually required
to aid the London commissariat! But that is nothing. Three times that
quantity of soles are needed—one would fancy this to be a statistic
of shoe-leather—the exact figure given by Mr. Mayhew is 97,520,000!
This is not in the least exaggerated. I discussed these figures with a
Billingsgate salesman a few months ago, and he thinks them quite within
the mark.
I have already alluded to the natural history of the mackerel, and
shall now say a word or two about the fishery, which is keenly
prosecuted. The great point in mackerel-fishing is to get the fish
into the market in its freshest state; and to achieve this several
boats will join in the fishery, and one of their number will come into
harbour as speedily as possible with the united take. The mackerel
is caught in England chiefly by means of the seine-net, and much in
the same way as the pilchard. A great number of this fish are however
captured by means of well-baited lines, and in some places a drift-net
is used. Any kind of bait almost will do for the mackerel-hooks—a
bit of red cloth, a slice of one of its own kind, or any clear shiny
substance. Mackerel are not quite so plentiful as they used to be.
As to when the Gadidæ and other white fish are in their proper season
it is difficult to say. Their times of sickness are not so marked as
to prevent many of the varieties from being used all the year round.
Different countries must have different seasons. We know, for instance,
that it is proper to have the close-time of one salmon river at a
different date from that of some other stream that may be farther south
or farther north; and I may state here, that during a visit which I
made to the Tay in December last, beautiful clean salmon were then
running. There are also exceptional spawning seasons in the case of
individual fish, so that we are quite safe in affirming that the sole
and turbot are in season all the year round. The following tabular view
of the dates when our principal fishes are in season does not refer to
any particular locality, but has been compiled to show that fish are to
be obtained nearly all the year round from some part of the coast:—
FISH TABLE.
S denotes that the fish is in season; F in finest season; and O out of
season.
┌─────────────┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┐
│ │Ja.│Fe.│Me.│Ap.│Ma.│Ju.│Ju.│Au.│Se.│Oc.│No.│De.│
├─────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┤
│Brill │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Carp │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Cockles │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Cod │ F │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ F │ F │
│Crabs │ O │ O │ O │ S │ F │ F │ F │ F │ F │ S │ S │ S │
│Dabs │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │
│Dace │ F │ F │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ F │ F │ F │ S │
│Eels │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ F │ F │ F │ S │
│Flounders │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Gurnets │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │
│Haddocks │ F │ S │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ F │ F │ F │
│Holibut │ S │ F │ F │ S │ S │ F │ F │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Herrings │ S │ S │ O │ O │ S │ S │ F │ F │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Ling │ S │ S │ F │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │
│Lobsters │ O │ O │ O │ S │ F │ F │ F │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Mackerel │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │
│Mullet │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │
│Mussels[12] │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Oysters │ S │ S │ F │ F │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Plaice │ S │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Prawns │ O │ O │ S │ F │ F │ F │ F │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │
│Salmon │ O │ S │ S │ F │ F │ F │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │
│Shrimps │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Skate │ F │ F │ F │ F │ F │ F │ S │ S │ O │ O │ S │ S │
│Smelts │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │
│Soles │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Sprats │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │
│Thornback │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ O │
│Trout │ O │ S │ F │ F │ F │ F │ S │ S │ O │ O │ O │ O │
│Turbot │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │ S │
│Whitings │ F │ F │ O │ O │ O │ S │ S │ S │ S │ F │ F │ F │
└─────────────┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┘
There is no organisation in Scotland for carrying on the white
fisheries, as there is in the case of the oyster or herring fisheries.
So far as our most plentiful table fish are concerned, the supply seems
utterly dependent on chance or the will of individuals. A man (or
company) owning a boat goes to sea just when he pleases. In Scotland,
where a great quantity of the best white fish are caught, this is
particularly the case, and the consequence is that at the season of
the year when the principal white and flat fish are in their primest
condition, they are not to be procured; the general answer to all
inquiries as to the scarcity being, “The men are away at the herring.”
This is true; the best boats and the strongest and most intelligent
fishermen have removed for a time to distant fishing-towns to engage in
the capture of the herring, which forms, during the summer months, a
noted industrial feature on the coasts of Scotland, and allures to the
scene all the best fishermen, in the hope that they may gain a prize in
the great herring-lottery, prizes in which are not uncommon, as some
boats will take fish to the extent of two hundred barrels in the course
of a week or two. Only a few decrepit old men are left to try their
luck with the cod and haddock lines; the result being, as I have stated
above, a scarcity of white and flat fish, which is beginning to be felt
in greatly enhanced prices. An intelligent Newhaven fishwife recently
informed me that the price of white fish in Edinburgh—a city close to
the sea—has been more than quadrupled within the last thirty years. She
remembers when the primest haddocks were sold at about one penny per
pound weight, and in her time herrings have been so plentiful that no
person would purchase them. We shall not soon look again on such times.
The cod and haddock fishery is a laborious occupation. At Buckie,
a quaint fishing-town on the Moray Firth, which I will by and by
describe, it is one of the staple occupations of the people. At that,
little port there are generally about thirty or forty large boats
engaged in the fishery, as well as a number of smaller craft used to
fish inshore. These boats, which measure from thirty to forty feet,
are, with the necessary hooks and lines, of the value of about £100.
Each boat is generally the property of a joint-stock company, and has a
crew of eight or nine individuals, who all claim an equal share in the
fish captured. The Buckie men often go a long distance, forty or fifty
miles, to a populous fishing-place, and are absent from home for a
period of fifteen or twenty hours. At many of the fishing villages from
which herring or cod boats depart, there is no proper harbour, and at
such places the sight of the departing fleet is a most animated one, as
all hands, women included, have to lend their aid in order to expedite
the launching of the little fleet, as the men who are to fish must be
kept dry and comfortable. Even at places where there is a harbour, it
is often not used, many of the boats being drawn up for convenience on
what is called the boat-shore. At Cockenzie, near Edinburgh, several of
the boats are still drawn up in this rude way, and the women not only
assist in launching and drawing up the boats, but they sell the produce
taken by each crew by auction to the highest bidder—the purchasers
usually being buyers on speculation, who send off the fish by train to
Edinburgh, Manchester, or London.
From the little ports of the Moray Firth, the men, as I have said,
have to go long distances to fish for cod and ling. As they have none
but open boats, it will easily be understood that they live hard
upon such occasions. They are sometimes absent from home for about
a week at a stretch, and as the weather is often very inclement the
men suffer severely. The fish are not so easily procured as in former
years, so that the remuneration for the labour undergone is totally
inadequate. A large traffic in living codfish used to be carried on
from Scotland; quick vessels furnished with wells took the cod alive
as far as Gravesend, whence they were sent on to London as required.
Although the railways have put an end to a good deal of this style of
transport, some cargoes of cod have been carried alive all the way
from the Rockall fishery to Gravesend. But the percentage of waste is
necessarily enormous: however, it _pays_ to do this, and one result of
the Rockall discovery has been the starting of a joint-stock company to
work one of the large North Sea fisheries. The cod-bank at the Faroe
Islands is now about exhausted; but the gigantic cod-fishery which has
been carried on for two centuries on the banks of Newfoundland still
continues to be prosecuted with great enterprise, although, according
to reliable information, not with the success which characterised the
fishery some years ago. In a few years more it will be quite possible
to make a decided impression even on the cod-banks of Newfoundland. The
Great Dogger Bank fishery has now become affected by overfishing, and
the Rockall Bank fails to yield anything like the large “takes” with
which it rewarded those who first despoiled it of its finny treasures.
A gentleman who dabbles a little in fishing speculations writes
me—“In 1862, I sent a fine smack to Rockall, and fish were in great
plenty—some very large; but the weather is usually so bad, and the bank
so exposed to the heavy seas of the North Atlantic, that the best and
largest vessels fail to fish with profit in consequence of the wear and
tear and delay. This will account in some degree for the cessation of
enterprise as regards the Rockall fishery.” A writer in the _Quarterly
Review_, a few years ago, said of the Dogger Bank:—“No better proof
that its stores are failing could be given than the fact that, although
the ground, counting the Long Bank and the north-west flat in its
vicinity, covers 11,800 square miles, and that in fine weather it
is fished by the London companies with from fifteen to twenty dozen
of long lines, extending ten or twelve miles, and containing from
9000 to 12,000 hooks, it is not yet at all common to take even as
many as fourscore of fish of a night—a poverty which can be better
appreciated when we learn that 600 fish for 800 hooks is the catch for
deep-sea fishing about Kinsale.” I cannot say much about the white-fish
fisheries of Ireland from personal knowledge, but I have been informed
on good authority that the coast fisheries of that country are not half
worked, and consequently are not in such an exhausted state as those
of Scotland and England. The west coast of Ireland, from Galway Bay to
Erris Head north, and north-west to Donegal Bay, is said to contain
all the best kinds of table fish in great quantities—mackerel being
plentiful in their season, as are cod, hake, ling, and others of the
Gadidæ. As for turbot, they can be had everywhere, and have been so
plentiful as to be used for bait on the long lines set for haddock,
etc. Lobsters and other shell-fish can likewise be procured in any
quantity. If the accounts given of the abundance of white fish on the
Irish coasts are to be relied upon, there must be a rare field there
for the opening up of new fishing enterprises.
Prolific as our coast fisheries have been, and still are, comparatively
speaking, the North Sea is at present the grand reservoir from which we
obtain our white fish. Indeed, it has been the great fish-preserve of
the surrounding peoples since ever there was a demand for this kind of
food. All the best-known fishing banks are to be found in the German
Ocean—Faroe, Loffoden, Shetland, and others nearer home—and its waters,
filling up an area of 140,000 square miles, teem with the best kinds
of fish, and give employment to thousands of people, as well in their
capture and cure as in the building of the ships, and the development
of the commerce which is incidental to all large enterprises.
It will doubtless be interesting to my readers to know something about
the general machinery of fish-capture, so far as regards the British
sea-fisheries. The modern cod-smack, clipper-built for speed, with
large wells for carrying her live fish, costs £1500. She usually
carries from nine to eleven men and boys, including the captain. Her
average expense per week is £20 during the long-line season in the
North Sea; but it exceeds this much if unfortunate in losing lines.
Fishing has of late been a most uncertain venture. The line is chiefly
used for the purpose of taking cod and haddock. The number of lines
taken to sea in an open boat depends upon the number of men belonging
to the particular vessel. Each man has a line of 50 fathoms (300 feet)
in length; and attached to each of these lines are 100 “snoods,” with
hooks already baited with mussels, pieces of herring or whiting. Each
line is laid “clear” in a shallow basket or “scull”—that is, it is so
arranged as to run freely as the boat shoots ahead. The 50-fathom line,
with 100 hooks, is in Scotland termed a “taes.” If there are eight men
in a boat the length of line will be 400 fathoms (2400 feet), with 800
hooks (the lines being tied to each other before setting). On arriving
at the fishing-ground the fishermen heave overboard a cork buoy, with
a flagstaff fixed to it about six feet in height. The buoy is kept
stationary by a line, called the “pow-end,” reaching to the bottom of
the water, and having a stone or small anchor fastened to the lower
end. To the pow-end is also fastened the fishing-line, which is then
“paid” out as fast as the boat sails, which may be from four to five
knots an hour. Should the wind be unfavourable for the direction in
which the crew wish to set the line they use the oars. When the line or
taes is all out the end is dropped, and the boat returns to the buoy.
The pow-end is hauled up with the anchor and fishing-line attached to
it. The fishermen then haul in the line with whatever fish may be on
it. Eight hundred fish might be taken (and often have been) by eight
men in a few hours by this operation; but many fishermen now say that
they consider themselves very fortunate when they get a fish on every
five hooks on an eight-taes line. Many a time too the fish are all
eaten off the line by “dogs” and other enemies, so that only a few
fragments and a skeleton or two remain to show that fish have been
caught. The fishermen of deck-welled cod-bangers use both hand-lines
and long-lines such as have been described. The cod-bangers’ tackling
is of course stronger than that used in open boats. The long-lines
are called “grut-lines,” or great-lines. Every deck-welled cod-banger
carries a small boat on deck for working the great-lines in moderate
weather. This boat is also provided with a well, in which the fish are
kept alive till they arrive at the banger, when they are transferred
from the small boat’s well to that of the larger vessel.
Hungry codfish will seize any kind of bait, and great-lines are usually
baited with bits of whiting, herring, haddock, or almost any kind of
fish. For hand-lines the fishermen prefer mussels or white whelks.
White whelks are caught by a line on which is fastened a number of
pieces of carrion or cod-heads. This line is laid along the bottom
where whelks are known to abound. The whelks attach themselves to
the cod-heads, and are pulled up, put into net bags, something like
onion-nets, and placed in the well of the vessel, where they are
kept alive till required for use. Another kind of bait used by the
boat fishermen for hand-lines is that of the lugworm. The “lug” is a
sand-worm, from four to five inches long, and about the thickness of
a man’s finger. The head part of the worm is of a dark brown fleshy
substance, and is the part used as bait, the rest of the worm being
nothing but sand. The “lug” is dug from the sand with a small spade or
three-pronged fork.
The principal fishing-grounds in the North Sea where cod-bangers
are employed are the Dogger Bank, Well Bank, and Dutch Bank. The
fishing-ground of the open-boat fishermen is on the coasts of Fife,
Midlothian, and Berwickshire; for haddocks, cod, ling, etc., it is
around the island of May and the Bell Rock, Marrbank, Murray Bank, and
Montrose Pits, etc.
The Scottish fishing-boats, with a few exceptions, are all open; but
whilst the open boats are a subject of dispute, they are an undoubted
convenience to the men. The boats, as a general rule, seldom go far
from home except to the seat of some particular fishery, and being low
in the build the nets are easily paid out and hauled in when they are
so fortunate as to obtain a good haul of fish. The Scottish fishery is
mostly what may be called a local or shore fishery, as the boats go out
and come home, with a few exceptions, once in the twenty-four hours. A
few boats with a half deck have been introduced of late years, and in
these the fishermen can make a much longer voyage; but, as a rule, the
Scottish fishermen have not, like their English brethren, a comfortable
decked lugger in which to prosecute their labours. In the event of a
storm the open Scottish boats are poorly off, as some of their harbours
are at such times totally inaccessible, and the boats being unable,
from their frail construction, to run out to sea, are frequently driven
upon the rocky coasts and wrecked, the men being drowned or killed
among the rocks. It is gratifying to think that a good number of
harbours of refuge have lately been constructed, and that in particular
an extensive one is being at present erected at Wick, the seat of
the great herring fishery. I have more than once, while conducting
inquiries into the fishing industries of the United Kingdom, seen the
storm break upon the herring-fleet while it was engaged in the fishery.
Such scenes are terribly sublime, as boat after boat is engulphed by
the ravening waters, or is dashed against the rocky pillars of the
shore, and the men sucked into the deep by the powerful waves. The sea
is free to all, without tax and without rent, but the price paid in
human life is a terrible equivalent:—“It is only they who go down to
the sea in ships who see the works of the Lord and His wonders in the
deep.”
There has been a large amount of exaggeration as to the injury done to
the white-fish fishery by the trawls. Fishermen who have neither the
capital nor the enterprise to engage in trawling themselves are sure to
abuse those who do; but the trawl is so formidable as to have induced
various French writers to advocate its prohibition. They describe this
instrument of the fishery as terrible in its effects, leaving, when it
is used, deep furrows in the bottom of the sea, and crushing alike the
fry and the spawn; but there is a very evident exaggeration in this
charge, because as a general rule the beam-trawl cannot be worked with
safety except on a sandy or muddy bottom, and, so far as we know, fish
prefer to spawn on ground that is slightly rocky or weedy, so that the
spawn may have something to adhere to, which it evidently requires in
order to escape destruction; and when a quantity of spawn is discerned
on a bit of seaweed or rock, we always find that, from some viscid
property of which it is possessed, it adheres to its resting-place with
great tenacity. The trawl-net, however destructive its agency, cannot,
I fear, be dispensed with; and, used at proper seasons and at proper
places, is the best engine of capture we can have for the kinds of
fish which it is employed to secure. The trawl is very largely used by
English fishermen, but it is only of late years that the trawlers have
come so far north as Sunderland and Berwick, and it is the fishermen of
these places who have got up the cry about that net being so injurious
to the fisheries. In Scotland there are no resident trawlers, the
fisheries being chiefly of the nature of a coasting industry, where
the men, as a general rule, only go out to sea for a few hours and
then return with their capture. Having been frequently on board of the
trawling ships, I may perhaps be allowed to set down a few figures
indicative of the power of the great beam-net.
A trawler, then, is a vessel of about 35 tons burden, and usually
carries 7 persons—viz. 5 men and 2 apprentices—as a crew to work
her.[13] The trawl-rope is 120 fathoms in length and 6 inches in
circumference, and to this rope are attached the different parts
of the trawling apparatus—viz. the beam, the trawl-heads, bag-net,
ground-rope, and span or bridle.
The trawler is furnished with a capstan for hauling in this heavy
machine. The beam, a spar of heavy elm wood, is 38 feet in length, and
2 feet in circumference at the middle, and is made to taper to the
ends. Two trawl-heads (oval rings, 4 feet by 2½ feet) are fixed to
the beam, one at each end. The upper part of the bag-net, which is
about 100 feet long, is fastened to the beam, while the lower part is
attached to the ground-rope. The ends of the ground-rope are fastened
to the trawl-beds, and being quite slack, the mouth of the bag-net
forms a semicircle when dragged over the ground. The whole apparatus
is fastened to the trawl-rope by means of the span or bridle, which
is a rope double the length of the beam, and of a thickness equal to
the trawl-rope. Each end of the span is fastened to the beam, and
to the loop thus formed the trawl-rope is attached. The ground-rope
is usually an old rope, much weaker than the trawl-rope, so that,
in the event of the net coming in contact with any obstruction in
the water, the ground-rope may break and allow the rest of the gear
to be saved. Were the warp to break instead of the ground-rope, the
whole apparatus, which is of considerable value, would be left at
the bottom. The trawler, as I noted while the net was in the water,
usually sails at the rate of 2 or 2½ knots an hour. The best depth
of water for trawling is from 20 to 30 fathoms, with a bottom of mud
or sand. At times, however, the nets are sunk much deeper than this,
but that is about the depth of water over the great Silver Pits, 90
miles off the Humber, where a large number of the Hull trawlers go to
fish. When they are caught, the fish (chiefly soles and other flat
fish) are then packed in baskets called pads, and are preserved in
ice until brought to market. To take twelve or fourteen pads a day
is considered excellent fishing. Besides these ground-fish the trawl
often encloses haddocks, cod, and other round fish, when such happen
to be feeding on the bottom. It sometimes happens that the beam falls
to the ground, and, the ground-rope lying on the top of the bag-net,
no fish can get in. This accident, which, however, seldom occurs, is
called a back fall. Mr. Vivian of Hull, in a letter to the editor of
a Manchester newspaper, gave two years ago a very graphic account of
the trawl-fishing, and stated that 99 out of every 100 turbot and
brills, nine-tenths of all the haddocks, and a large proportion of all
the skate, which are daily sold in the wholesale fishmarkets of this
country are caught by the system of trawling. Trawling is without
doubt the most efficient mode of getting the white fish at the bottom
of the ocean; and were it made penal, London and the large towns would
at times be entirely without fish. As a matter of course, trawling must
exhaust the shoals at particular places. A fleet of upwards of 100
smacks, each with a beam nearly 40 feet long, trawling night and day,
disturbs, frightens, or captures whatever fish are to be found in that
locality, entrapping, besides, shell-fish, anchors, stores that have
been sunken with ships ages ago; even a wedge of gold has been brought
up by this insatiable instrument. The only remedy is to widen the field
of action.
It is best, however, in a case of dispute, as in this trawl question,
to allow those interested to speak for themselves. I have gone over an
immense mass of the evidence taken by a recent commission appointed by
Parliament to make inquiry on the subject, and will set some parts of
it before my readers, so that, if a little trouble be taken in weighing
the pros and cons of the matter, they may be able to form their own
judgment on this vexed question. A Cullercoats fisherman is very strong
against the beam-trawl. He is certain that thirty years ago we could
get double the quantity of fish, during the fishing season, that we
obtain now, and that the supply has fallen away little by little; and
he says that even ten years ago it was almost as good as it was thirty
years ago. Some years hence England will cry out for want of fish if
trawling be allowed to go on. The price of fish has doubled, he says,
of late years. “When I was a young man, there were nine in family of
us, and my wife could purchase haddock for twopence which would serve
for our dinners. Now she could not obtain the same quantity for less
than ninepence or tenpence. Of recent years the number of fishermen
and fishing-boats has greatly increased. I do not think the fishermen
of the present day are better off than those when I was a young
man.” The fishermen at Cullercoats, when they trawl, use the small
trawl, and fish in shallow water. Under these circumstances they do no
injury. The trawlers, with the large trawl, says a Mr. Nicholson who
was examined, not only sweep away the lines of the fishermen, but also
destroy the fish. At Cullercoats a man engaged in the line-fishing gets
all the fish on his own lines, and his wife goes to town and disposes
of them. The beam-trawling commenced about six years ago. The number
of boats and the fishing population still go on steadily increasing.
Beam-trawling does two kinds of harm: in the first place, it sweeps
away the fishermen’s lines; and next, it destroys the spawn. “There
may be a remedy for a fisherman losing his lines, but I never heard of
it. I am aware that they could recover damages, but the difficulty is
to get hold of the offending parties. The only remedy I can suggest
is to do away with the trawl-fishing altogether.” This witness stated
that ten years ago he used to take sixty or seventy codfish per day,
and that now he cannot get one. The trawlers, being able to fish in all
weathers, beat the local fishermen out of the field.
Templeman, a South Shields fisherman, says that when engaged in
trawling he has drawn up three and a half tons of fish-spawn! He also
says in his evidence that in trawling one-half of the fish are dead
and so hashed as to be unfit for market. Has seen a ton and a half of
herring-spawn offered for sale as manure. The take of fish upon the
Dogger Bank has decreased very much. The fishermen cannot catch one
quarter part there now that they used to do. The number of trawl-boats
on the Dogger Bank has increased about 10 per cent within the last
year, and yet they are getting about a quarter less fish. Some of them
can scarcely make a living now at all. They have impoverished all
other places, and now they have come here, and in a short time there
will not be a fish left. It is the same with the other fish-banks, and
that accounts for the trawlers now coming to this neighbourhood. They
have destroyed the Hartlepool and Sunderland ground, and now they have
come to a small patch off here, and they will sweep it clean too. A
trawl-boat will sometimes catch five tons a day; but on the average a
ton and a half; but as a great deal of that has to be thrown overboard,
they only bring about ten cwt. to market. The boats belonging to
Cullercoats, carrying the same number of hands as the trawlers, only
catch upon the average about five stones. The fish caught in the trawl
are not fit for the market, as the insides are broke and the galls
burst and running through them. “If I had my way, I would pass an Act
of Parliament to do away with trawling, and oblige every man to fish
with hooks and lines. I think that would increase the quantity of fish
for the country, because the young fish would not take the hooks. I am
not aware that if the small boats get five stones a day it would at
all diminish the supply of fish for the market; but if the trawling is
allowed to continue that very soon will.”
Thomas Bolam, on being examined, said: “I have followed the
herring-fishing for twenty-one years, and the white-fishing six years.
In the course of those six years I have found that the supply of white
fish has gradually diminished both in the number and size of the fish.
In twenty years’ experience in the herring-fishing I find a fearful
diminution in the total quantity caught. The shoals of herring are now
only about one-third the size they were when I first commenced the
fishing. At that time we used to get 14,000 or 15,000; now the length
of 4000 or 5000 is thought a good take. I attribute the falling-off to
the existence of the trawling system.”
Many other fishermen gave similar evidence. A fisherman named Bulmer,
residing at Hartlepool, said that the white fish were not only scarcer,
but that they were deteriorating in size as well. The falling off
in quantity has decidedly been accompanied by a smaller size, more
particularly in haddocks. Haddocks, twenty years ago, were caught from
five pounds to six pounds in weight; now they hardly average three
pounds. There is scarcely a single cod to be caught now, and formerly
our boats got them scores together, and had to trail them out in rows,
and could only sell them for about 10s. a score; now they realise at
Christmas 5s. and 6s. each. “Of turbot-fishing I am sorry to speak. It
pains me to think of the injuries we have sustained in this particular
fishing by trawlers. At present we dare not cast our nets, as they are
sure to be lost. I lost two ‘fleets’ of turbot-nets worth £25. About
twenty-six years ago I have caught two hundred turbot in one day: now
there are none to be got.” Another resident gave similar evidence, and
thought that if trawling was persisted in their noble bay would soon
be fallow ground. John Purvis of Whitburn also says that haddocks have
decreased in size as well as in quantity—thinks they are at least a
third smaller now as compared with former years. Considers that the
trawling system has caused the diminution of fish which has taken place
during the last four years. David Archibald of Croster had bought
trawled fish not for food, as they were only fit to be used as bait.
Having given a fair sample of the evidence against the trawling system,
it will be but just that we now hear the other side of the case. It is
unfortunate, of course, that we cannot obtain really impartial evidence
on this vexed question, as the party complaining is the party said to
have had their fishery prospects ruined by the use of the beam-trawl,
whilst the trawlers, of course, won’t hear a bad word said of the
engine by which they gain their living. A Torbay fisherman, accustomed
to trawling for the last twenty-six years, flatly contradicts much that
has been said against the trawl-net. He asserts that he never took or
saw any spawn taken, and that only about half a hundredweight in each
two tons of the fish taken is unfit for the market. He does not think
the fish are decreasing either in quantity or size.
John Clements, a trawl-net fisherman from Hull, was one of the men
examined at Sunderland; his evidence was as follows:—“I have followed
trawling for twenty-six years. I have fished down here for ten years.
There was no diminution of fish at Hull; but we land it easier here,
and in a better condition for the market. I never noticed any spawn in
the nets, but I have got a basket or two of small fish, which, when
not fit for food, we throw away. In the ten years which I have come
down here I have found an increase in the quantity and take. I think
trawling increases the fish, as the trawl-net turns up the food of
the fish, worms and slugs, and the fish follow the net like a swarm
of crows after a harrow. I do not think that we disturb the spawn in
that way. This morning there were two or three haddocks broken out of
sixteen or seventeen baskets, each basket containing seven or eight
stones. The trawl-net fish do not fetch such a good price as the line
fish, but it is from the quantity and not the quality. We have added to
the enjoyment of the people of this town by the good supply of fish we
have given them. Twenty years ago a month’s catch was about £50, and
now it is from £80 to £120; and this is not from the better price, but
the greater quantity which we are enabled to get by going farther out
to sea with the larger boats. In the winter time I fish on Dogger Bank,
and in summer inshore. I never came across any of the long-line nets.
I have found herring-spawn in haddocks; but I have never found any in
the net. We catch a good deal of sand here. It comes in as soon as we
stop; but it falls through before we get the net to the surface of the
water. The farther off we go the more haddocks we get; and the nearer
we come to the shore the more soles we get. I have caught a good deal
of cod. In one instance I caught one hundred and eight cods in a haul.
That was forty miles off Flambro’ Head. My nets have been examined
officially only once in twelve years. The shorter the haul the better
the fish; but I have had the fish in splendid condition with a large
haul. I have never had any fish damaged by having the gall-bladder
burst. A gall-bladder may be burst, but we would not see it unless we
opened the fish.”
A Hull trawler spoke to the following effect:—“I never saw any spawn in
the net. It is impossible for spawn to be caught in the net. There is
often unmarketable fish, but it is only when there is a strong breeze
and a difficulty in getting the gear on board. We generally get seven
or eight hampers in a haul, and one basket would perhaps be unfit for
the market. The hooked fish is a more saleable fish, as it has got
the scales and slime on it, and the trawl fish has not got the slime
on it, and the scales are sometimes rubbed off.” Some haddocks were
here produced which the witness said were a fair specimen. The scales
were on them, and on one being opened the inside was found to be in a
unbroken state.
The following is a summary of the evidence given by William Dawson, a
very intelligent fisherman of Newbiggin, who spoke from fifty years’
experience:—“He had fished cod, ling, turbot, and several kinds of
shell-fish, but not oysters. He was still engaged as a fisherman. He
fished with a line for soles. The number of fishermen and boats had
increased. In 1808 there were eight boats, and there are now about
thirty boats. Fifty years ago the boats were about one-third the size.
The boats carried just about the same lines as now. The boats now carry
about three times as much net as they did. The number of white fish
is falling off a great deal. In 1812 every boat brought in more white
fish than they could carry. We do not go much more frequently to sea
now. In the size of the fish now there is not much difference—a little
smaller. The haddock and herring fisheries had decreased. He had not
noticed much difference in the size, only in the quantity. There was a
greater number of boats engaged now in the herring-fishing—the number
of herring having decreased within the last ten or twelve years.
Little mackerel was caught there. Large quantities of mackerel were
off this coast at times, but they had no nets to take them. Although a
good many sprats were seen, they did not try to catch them. The cause
of the falling off in the quantity of fish he considered was their
being destroyed farther south. No trawling vessels came here till last
summer. They went about twelve miles from land, and trawled in the
fishing-ground. The lines of the fishing-boats were parallel, and about
a quarter of a mile apart. When there was a south-east storm they got
plenty of fish, but it was not so now. With a north-east storm they
had plenty of fish. In his recollection, fifty years back, there was
plenty of fish with a south-east storm. There had been no interference
with their nets, and no one had regulated the times of fishing. There
might be some advantage if the government made a law to prevent either
the English or French fishing from Saturday morning to Monday night.
That would give time for the fish to draw together. That alluded to
herring. They should not allow the trawl-boats to fish on the coasts.
The French boats often came within three miles of the land. Herring are
caught within three miles of the shore. The French boats shifted with
the herring along the coast, and have caught a great quantity. There
should be a rule that herring-nets should not be shot before sunset.
When the Queen’s cutters came the French boats made off to more than
three miles from the land. Lobsters had diminished, but not the crabs.
He believed they had caught too many lobsters. The boat’s crew is not
so well off now as thirty years ago. Lodgings were better. They do
not earn so much money now. In the course of a year (about 1825) he
made £126, and a few years back he made only £78. The average for the
last five years at the white fishing was about £50. Other £50 might be
made at the herring-fishing. The buoys of the lines were large enough
for the trawlers to see them, and they could see where the nets were.
They destroyed both the fish and the lines. A line boat with fittings
costs about £40, and a herring-boat with nets not less than £100. The
men bought the boats with money saved. Little fish was destroyed on
their lines, except what was eaten by the dogfish. There were herring
there in January and February, but were not caught. Their boats fished
between Tynemouth and Dunstanborough castles. He could remember when
there were no French boats on the coast; they first came about 1824.
The French boats fish on the Sundays. Their boats did not. A young man
ought to earn £100 a year. It would cost a full third to keep his boat
and tackling up. The boats lasted about fourteen years.”
I need not go on repeating similar evidence, but the witnesses were
nearly all agreed that the beam-trawl did not do the injury to the
fisheries that was charged against it, especially as regards injury
to spawn. I may perhaps, by way of conclusion to this contradictory
evidence, be allowed to quote from the _Times_ a portion of a letter
on trawling, written by a “Billingsgate Salesman:”—“Seven years’
experience in Billingsgate, and my lifetime previous spent among the
fishermen in a seaport-town, may enable me to offer a few remarks,
which through your able abilities may be sifted, and perhaps leave a
portion of matter which you may consider of some value and turn to
some account. My personal interest is not only in trawl-fishing, but
hook and line, seined-net, drift-net, and other kinds; for, being
a commission agent, it is all fish that comes to my net. I cannot
speak of the qualities of trawl-net fishing, either for or against,
not having been connected with that branch of the trade, but after a
remark or two on the information received by Mr. Fenwick, and which is
conveyed in your columns from certain gentlemen professing to have a
knowledge of the trade, I will give you my information as briefly as
possible. The fact is this—it never will be possible to catch what we
consider trawl-fish in sufficient quantities to meet the demand but by
the trawl, the principal kinds being turbot, brill, soles, and plaice.
A small quantity may be taken by other means, but more by accident
than otherwise. As for trawl-fish being mutilated and putrid before
landing, how does it happen that so many spotless and pure fish, out of
the above kinds, are not only sold in London but all over the country,
and exhibited on the tables both of rich and poor? Yourself and every
nobleman can speak on this point; and when informed that they are all
caught by the trawl (a fact undeniable), you will consider it wrong
on the part of any one to mislead the public on a matter of so much
importance. Advise him to fathom the secrets of the ocean, and discover
a better mode to obtain them.”
A great deal of obloquy has been thrown on the trawl, because it
_hashes_ the fish; but the destruction of young fish—that is, fish
unfit for human food because of their being young—is not peculiar to
the trawl. When the lines are thrown out for cod the fishermen cannot
command that only full-grown fish are to seize upon the bait: the
tender codling, the unfledged haddock, the greedy mackerel _will_
bite—the consequence being that thousands of sea-fish are annually
killed that are unfit for food, and that have never had an opportunity
of adding to their kind. But this mischance is incidental to all our
fisheries, no matter what the engine of capture may be, whether net
or line. Look how we slaughter our grilses, without giving them the
opportunity of breeding! The herring-fishing is a notable example of
this mode of doing business: the very time that these animals come
together to perpetuate their species is the time chosen by man to kill
them. Of course if they are to be used as food, they must be killed
at some time, and the proper time to capture them forms one of those
fishing mysteries which we have not as yet been able to solve. We
protect the salmon with many laws at the most interesting time of its
life, and why we should not be able to devise a close-time for the cod,
turbot, haddock, and sole of particular coasts—for each portion of the
coast has its particular season—is what I cannot understand, and can
only account for the anomaly on the ground of salmon being private
property.
The labour of the Scottish fishermen is greatly augmented by the want
of good harbours for their boats. Time and opportunity serving, the men
of the fisher class are really industrious, and this want of proper
harbourage is a hardship to them. It is curious to notice the little
quarry-holes that on some parts of the Moray Firth serve as a refuge
for the boats. There is the harbour of Whitehills, for instance: it
could not be of any possible use in the event of a stiff gale arising,
for in my opinion the boats would never get into it, but would be
dashed to pieces on the neighbouring rocks. I have witnessed one or
two storms on the north-east coast of Scotland, and shall never forget
the scenes of misery these tumults of the great deep occasioned. Even
lately (October 1864) there was a storm raging along these coasts that
left most impressive death-marks at nearly all the fishing places on
the Moray Firth. I was not an eye-witness of this last gale, but I have
gathered from various sources, oral and written, one or two passages
descriptive of its violence and the loss of life it occasioned.
At Portessie, one of the Moray Firth villages, a boat called the
Shamrock, containing a crew of nine men, was numbered among the
lost. It had sailed on a Wednesday morning in October 1864, for the
fishing-ground known as “the Bank,” about twenty miles off. John
Smith, the principal owner of the boat, an old man, was not at the
time able to go to sea; but he had seven sons, and five of these, with
four near relatives, sailed in the ill-fated Shamrock from Portessie
harbour on that fatal morning. The Shamrock was accompanied by some
other boats belonging to the same place, and the little fleet left as
early as three A.M., keeping together more or less until they reached
the fishing-ground. On arriving at the Bank the Shamrock, it appears,
had separated from the others, the crew preferring to go some distance
in order to cast their lines; and she had not been seen by the other
boats after parting from them. About seven o’clock on the following
morning, some of the people of Whitehills, on going round to the spot
known as Craigenroan, a quarter of a mile to the westward, were alarmed
at seeing a boat lying high and dry among the rocks, as if it had been
tossed up at high tide and left perched there on the receding of the
waters. The mast, some oars, and other articles, were seen lying here
and there beside her, strewn among the rocks, and there were holes seen
in her sides—evidence only too conclusive that the boat was a wreck.
A closer inspection discovered her mark and number—“B.F., 743,” and
then was also seen the name and unmistakable designation, “Shamrock,
Pt. Essie—J, Smith.” On examination it was conjectured, from the way
in which the mast had been wrenched off, that the boat had foundered,
either some distance at sea, or among inshore breakers, righting again
as she was beaten up on the rocks, where, as we have said, she was
found sitting high and dry on her keel. It was at once felt that all
the crew had perished, and the bodies of the men were eagerly sought
for by their friends and relatives. On Friday, the lifeless body of
John Smith, “Bodie,” was found washed up on the beach. On the same day
the corpse of his son, a young man who was to have been married in a
week—and whose house, like that of a friend and namesake, was being
furnished at home—was cast ashore at Whitehills, and one of the first
to recognise the body was the father of the betrothed. Another body was
got at the mouth of the little burn at the further end of the Boyndie
Links. This also was on Friday: it was found to be the remains of
one of the five brothers—namely John, aged twenty-five, the namesake
alluded to, who was to have been married on the morrow. The body of
another of the five brothers—namely William—was found floating in the
bay, off Banff Harbour, lashed to a buoy, to which the poor fellow had
attached himself, probably in the boat, for safety. At one time the
body was seen in this position at Whitehills, suspended from the buoy,
and so close to the shore that had a grappling-iron been at hand it
might have been secured. It would have been of no avail, however, as
the vital spark had long since fled; but the passage of the body, drawn
back with the tide and carried round to Banff, served to reconcile
certain apparently conflicting evidences as to the history of the
wreck, or rather as to the spot where it occurred.
On the occasion of this storm there was deep wailing at Buckie, for
in that town there was more than one woman who was widowed by the
tempest. Of necessity a fisherman’s wife is extremely masculine in
character. Her occupation makes her so, because she requires a strength
of body which no other female attains, and of which the majority of
men cannot boast. The long distances she has frequently to travel in
all weathers with her burden, weighing many stones, make it essential
for her to possess a sturdy frame, and be capable of great physical
endurance. Accordingly, most of the fishwives who carry on the sale
of their husbands’ fish possess a strength with which no prudent man
would venture to come into conflict. Then the nature of their calling
makes them bold in manners, and in speech rough and ready. Having to
encounter daily all sorts of people, and drive hard bargains, their
wits, though not refined, are sharpened to a keen edge, and they are
more than a match for any “chaff” directed towards them either by
purchaser or passer-by. So long, however, as they are civilly and
properly treated, they are civil and fair-spoken in return, and can,
when occasion serves, both flatter and please in a manner by no means
offensive. Altogether, the Scottish fishwife is an honest, out-spoken,
good-hearted creature, rough as the occupation she follows, but
generally good-natured and what the Scotch call “canty.” She does not
even want feeling, though, it may be, her avocation gives her little
opportunity to show it. But who is so often called upon to endure the
strongest emotions of fear, suspense, and sorrow, as the fisherman’s
wife? Every time the wind blows, and the sea rises, when the boats of
her husband or kinsfolk are “out,” she knows no peace till they are in
safety; and not seldom has she been doomed to stand on the shore and
look at the white foaming sea in which the little boat, containing all
she held dear, was battling with the billows, with the problem of its
destruction or salvation all unsolved.
To return to the history of the storm. No less than twenty-seven boats
belonging to Buckie had left for the fishing, some of them as early as
two o’clock in the morning. Some hours previous to the boats leaving,
there were indications of the coming storm. A heavy surf was rolling on
the coast, but almost unaccompanied by wind, only slight airs now and
again coming from the north, but the barometer had fallen considerably
during the night. With these indications of bad weather, the men on
duty at the Coast Guard station hailed the Portessie men when on their
way to join their boats at Buckie harbour, and warned them of the
likelihood of a storm overtaking them. Little heed, however, appears to
have been given to this warning, and the boats left the harbour with
more than usual difficulty, the sea at the entrance being so rough. The
boats pursued a north-east course, but from the absence of a breeze the
oars had to be resorted to, and nearly twelve hours elapsed before they
got to the fishing rendezvous. In ordinary circumstances, with a good
wind, the boats would have reached the fishing-ground in about three
hours, and would have returned by the next tide—about mid-day. About
six P.M. the storm broke upon the fishermen with great violence. The
majority of the boats kept close together, and as the first of the gale
was succeeded by comparative calm, the crews, imagining that they had
seen the worst of the storm, began to finish their fishing. This would
have occupied about an hour, but, before it was half accomplished,
the wind, veering rather more to the north, blew a perfect hurricane,
and the sea became so disturbed that it was hardly possible to manage
the boats. The sails, which had been hoisted when the wind first
sprang up, were reduced, some of them by as many as six reefs, but the
experience and energy of the hardy fishermen seemed scarce sufficient
to battle successfully for existence among the warring elements. Some
of the crews in this strait made for the Banff coast; others made up
their minds to endeavour to ride out the storm, and a good number ran
for Cromarty, or the ports on the opposite side of the Firth. The
attainment of either of these three alternatives was a work of peril,
for there is no harbour of refuge on either side of the Firth to which
boats may with safety run from a storm; and the broken water is about
as plentiful and dangerous in the centre of the Firth as it is along
the shore. While the brave fishermen were encountering the severest
perils attending their calling, the anxiety and suspense of their
relations were heartrending. The storm in its intensity, though its
coming had been foreshadowed, was not felt on shore till about nine
P.M. on Wednesday evening. From that hour, however, the wind, now from
the east, and again from the north, came in terrific gusts, and the
whole bay at Buckie boiled and moaned as it had been seldom known to do
before.
Long before the storm was at its height, the wives and sweethearts
of those at sea had become alarmed for their safety; they could well
remember the desolation that a similar tempest, which occurred on the
16th August 1848, caused in their households. They left their homes to
wander along the sea-beach, and peer through the storm for any sign
of the approach of the boats containing their relatives. A huge fire
was kindled on the top of the braes in the hope that its glare might
attract those at sea, and beacon them to a safe shore. During the
early part of the night the suspense and fear of the whole inhabitants
of Buckie were extreme, and while this anxiety was being endured the
boats that had first left the fishing-ground were nearing the land.
Some of the boats for a considerable time were allowed to run before
the wind, the crews not knowing whither they went, as they were not
within sight of lights. When at length they got within sight of the
lights very great caution had to be exercised, and a little confusion
was occasioned by the unusual number of fires exhibited. Shortly after
eleven o’clock a boat was seen approaching Buckie harbour, and getting
a favourable opportunity of crossing the bar, it entered the harbour in
safety. Two other boats followed, but these had much greater difficulty
in gaining the port. The tide was at its height about two o’clock
A.M., when a fourth boat approached. At the entrance to the harbour
she shipped a sea, and it was thought by all on the shore that she had
been upset. The same wave, however, carried the boat a considerable
distance into the harbour, and as she continued in an upright position
she was soon pulled to the beach, and her crew landed in safety. When
the tide was fully in, it stood about twenty feet above its ordinary
point, the waves breaking almost on the foundations of the Coast Guard
watch-house. On the pier the water fell so heavily that it was often
some feet deep, and the spray from the waves mounted to a height of
about forty feet above the lighthouse. The people kept watching on the
shore till daybreak, but no sign of any of the other boats was visible,
and as no known casualty had occurred to the boats that made for Buckie
and Portgordon, keen hopes were entertained that the remainder of the
boats had found shelter on the opposite side of the Firth, or would
be able to ride out the storm. The anxiety in Buckie continued during
Thursday, and was rather intensified towards the afternoon when the
wind, veering round to W.N.W., again heightened almost to the pitch
it had reached during the previous night. Several people from the
villages on both sides of Buckie came into that town in the afternoon
to ascertain whether the post should bring tidings from their missing
friends. With great consideration the captain of one of the boats that
got into Cromarty wrote by first post to say that no casualty had
occurred within his knowledge, and that a number of boats (some eight
or nine) had entered Cromarty in safety, and others were approaching
the harbour.
I was a witness to some of the effects of the previous great storms
that had raged in the Moray Firth about the close of the year 1857.
A number of fishing-boats and their crews were lost at that time,
Buckie again coming in for a large share of the desolation. I have
preserved a few scraps descriptive of the storm, cut, I think, from
the _Banffshire Journal_; and these, supplemented by what I gathered
personally from the descriptions of those engaged in the contest, will
give my readers a good idea of the scene at Buckie. Premising that
before the storm attained its culminating point one or two of the boats
had got safely into the harbour, I may state that as the sea increased
in anger and the waves lashed the shore in ever-augmenting fury, the
excitement of those on land became terrible. People seemed disposed
to run everywhere, and no one knew where to run. It was nearly an
hour—sixty minutes of terrible suspense—after the two first boats came
into the harbour ere any others came in sight. By and by, however,
they began to appear, most of them evidently making for the sands
opposite and east of the new town of Buckie, some for Craigenroan, a
place of shelter east of Portessie. The attention of the Buckie people
was chiefly centred in the arrivals at their own shore, as other boats
were scarcely seen; and while their own boats were every now and then,
from two to three o’clock, dropping in at home, there was the chance
that those running for Craigenroan belonged to other towns. At two
o’clock the storm had about culminated, and as the boats came each in
sight (they were only seen a short way off land) there was a shriek
from those assembled on the shore, while the utmost anxiety prevailed
till they were each ashore and the men landed, every one providing
themselves with ropes and whatever could be supposed likely to be
useful in putting forth efforts to save life. The crowd ran from one
point to another along the coast to whatever place it was likely the
boats would strike, and most enthusiastic were the exertions made by
one and all to get the imperilled men out of jeopardy, so soon as ever
they came within reach. The boats, as they arrived, were secured with
mooring-ropes, and a hand or two left to take care of each, while the
spare men spread themselves along the beach to assist in saving the
lives and property of their fellows in distress. Four boats got safely
in. Alas for the fifth! About half-past two o’clock this fifth boat,
like the others, without a stitch of canvas, came in sight pretty far
west, and was expected to land in “The Neuk,” opposite New Buckie.
Tossed mountain high at one moment, and the next down between the
gigantic waves, she came along in much the same circumstances as
the others. Hundreds soon gathered at the point she was expected to
reach. The boats had come so near the shore that the men on board were
perfectly well recognised by their friends, among whom there were wives
in the greatest anxiety to rescue their husbands from the angry deep,
fathers to rescue their sons, brother to welcome brother, etc. But how
sad was the scene beggars all description, for within a hundred yards
of the shore a tremendous sea struck the boat on her broadside, and
turned her right over, as quick as a man would turn his hand, the crew
of course being all cast into the water. The crowd on shore held up
their hands appalled, and cried and shrieked, many of them in perfect
distraction. The scene was heartrending in the extreme; but the first
manifestations of grief and alarm by and by toned down to mournful
wailings, although, as was to be expected, the excitement and confusion
were very great. Three of the men were never seen, having at once sunk
to rise no more. Two seemed to get on the bottom of the boat, but one
of them very shortly disappeared. The other one, however, stood up on
his feet, and put his hands to his waistcoat near the buttons, from
which act it was supposed he was preparing to strip and be in readiness
to swim. The situation was heightened by the interest of those on shore
in seeing him in this perilous position, and the grief of his friends
was intensely unspeakable when they saw the first heavy sea wash him
away from the footing he had gained, and, in its rolling fury, hide him
perhaps for ever from human eyes. The remaining three of the eight who
were on board (the crew numbered eleven, but three had not gone to sea
that day) also disappeared for a little, but in a short time they were
seen floating about on spars and pieces of the masts; and hope still
existed that rescue might be extended to them. They were driven from
one point to another with fearful velocity, and indeed were only now
and again visible. Anxiety was felt in every breast still more acutely
than ever, as these three were wafted nearer and nearer the shore; and
so sorely did they struggle, that, even against every probability, hope
whispered that their safety was possible. For full twenty minutes they
floated about in this situation, latterly coming within about twenty
yards of where the people were standing—so near that, had the sea been
ordinarily calm, hundreds were there who would have considered it no
difficult task to rush into the water and give them their hand. One man
cried to his brother to put his hair away from his eyes, when, by the
motion the latter made, it was evident he heard quite distinctly. Two
or three different times he obeyed, putting up his hand, and rubbing
his hair over his forehead. An anxious wife actually rushed into the
tide nearly to the neck, in an endeavour to rescue her husband, but her
heroic effort was completely unavailing. The tide was ebbing at the
time, but the waves, in terrible force, rushed far up on the beach,
and swept back again with fearful power. No one could keep his footing
in the water. Attempts were made to join hands and thus extend help to
the unfortunate men, but, besides the weight of the water itself, the
backwash of the waves hurled the gravel beach from below their feet, so
that to stand on it was impossible; and even while these vain efforts
were being made at rescue, the men, worn out in the raging surf, sank,
one after another, amid the cries and shrieks of their despairing
relatives.
The number of men drowned on the north-east coast—_i.e._ at Wick,
Helmsdale, and Peterhead—during the great storm of 1848, was one
hundred, and the value of the boats and the nets that were lost upon
that remarkable occasion was at least £7000. The gale broke upon the
coast on the 19th of August, just as the fishing was being busily
prosecuted. Most of the boats ran for shelter to the nearest haven,
and it is melancholy to know that many of them foundered at the very
entrance to their harbour. The whole of the mischief was done in the
brief period of three hours. In that period many a poor woman was made
miserable, and many a hearth rendered cheerless. It is gratifying to
think that since the date of the great storm considerable improvement
has been made in the Scottish fishery harbours, and that at Wick a
great harbour of refuge is now in progress. The weather prophecies
now published by the Board of Trade, and telegraphed to all important
seaports, are also of great use to the fisher-folk, as are the large
barometers which have been erected in nearly every fishing village.
These are the elements of science which will ultimately chase away
superstition from our sea-coast villages, if indeed we can honestly
call the poetic fancies of these fisher-folks superstitions. We cannot
wonder that, as the dark remembrance of some great bereavement escapes
from the chambers of their memory, they see forms in the flying clouds,
or hear voices in the air, that cannot be seen or heard by landsmen
unaccustomed to the treacherous waters of the great deep.
Large quantities of fish offal are used by the farmers as manure. The
intestines of the herring are regularly sold for the purpose of being
thrown upon the land, and I have heard of as many as three hundred
barrels of haddock offal being sold from one curing-yard. It is thought
by some economists that the commoner kinds of fish might be largely
captured and converted into fish guano. I have not studied that part
of the fishing question very deeply, but I am disposed to doubt the
propriety of employing fishing vessels to capture coarse fish for
manure, as I do not think it will pay to do so. In former years fish
were extensively used as manure, but that was during seasons when the
capture was so large as to produce a glut. I reprint, in the shape of
an appendix to this volume, an account of the fish-guano manufactory
at Concarneau in Finisterre, as well as some information about the
fish-manure of Norway.