CHAPTER XVII

GALAPAGOS ARCHIPELAGO

The whole Group Volcanic--Numbers of Craters--Leafless Bushes Colony at

Charles Island--James Island--Salt-lake in Crater--Natural History of

the Group--Ornithology, curious Finches--Reptiles--Great Tortoises,

habits of--Marine Lizard, feeds on Sea-weed--Terrestrial Lizard,

burrowing habits, herbivorous--Importance of Reptiles in the

Archipelago--Fish, Shells, Insects--Botany--American Type of

Organization--Differences in the Species or Races on different

Islands--Tameness of the Birds--Fear of Man, an acquired Instinct.

SEPTEMBER 15th.--This archipelago consists of ten principal islands, of

which five exceed the others in size. They are situated under the

Equator, and between five and six hundred miles westward of the coast

of America. They are all formed of volcanic rocks; a few fragments of

granite curiously glazed and altered by the heat, can hardly be

considered as an exception. Some of the craters, surmounting the

larger islands, are of immense size, and they rise to a height of

between three and four thousand feet. Their flanks are studded by

innumerable smaller orifices. I scarcely hesitate to affirm, that

there must be in the whole archipelago at least two thousand craters.

These consist either of lava or scoriae, or of finely-stratified,

sandstone-like tuff. Most of the latter are beautifully symmetrical;

they owe their origin to eruptions of volcanic mud without any lava: it

is a remarkable circumstance that every one of the twenty-eight

tuff-craters which were examined, had their southern sides either much

lower than the other sides, or quite broken down and removed. As all

these craters apparently have been formed when standing in the sea, and

as the waves from the trade wind and the swell from the open Pacific

here unite their forces on the southern coasts of all the islands, this

singular uniformity in the broken state of the craters, composed of the

soft and yielding tuff, is easily explained.

Considering that these islands are placed directly under the equator,

the climate is far from being excessively hot; this seems chiefly

caused by the singularly low temperature of the surrounding water,

brought here by the great southern

[map]

Polar current. Excepting during one short season, very little rain

falls, and even then it is irregular; but the clouds generally hang

low. Hence, whilst the lower parts of the islands are very sterile,

the upper parts, at a height of a thousand feet and upwards, possess a

damp climate and a tolerably luxuriant vegetation. This is especially

the case on the windward sides of the islands, which first receive and

condense the moisture from the atmosphere.

In the morning (17th) we landed on Chatham Island, which, like the

others, rises with a tame and rounded outline, broken here and there by

scattered hillocks, the remains of former craters. Nothing could be

less inviting than the first appearance. A broken field of black

basaltic lava, thrown into the most rugged waves, and crossed by great

fissures, is everywhere covered by stunted, sun-burnt brushwood, which

shows little signs of life. The dry and parched surface, being heated

by the noon-day sun, gave to the air a close and sultry feeling, like

that from a stove: we fancied even that the bushes smelt unpleasantly.

Although I diligently tried to collect as many plants as possible, I

succeeded in getting very few; and such wretched-looking little weeds

would have better become an arctic than an equatorial Flora. The

brushwood appears, from a short distance, as leafless as our trees

during winter; and it was some time before I discovered that not only

almost every plant was now in full leaf, but that the greater number

were in flower. The commonest bush is one of the Euphorbiaceae: an

acacia and a great odd-looking cactus are the only trees which afford

any shade. After the season of heavy rains, the islands are said to

appear for a short time partially green. The volcanic island of

Fernando Noronha, placed in many respects under nearly similar

conditions, is the only other country where I have seen a vegetation at

all like this of the Galapagos Islands.

The Beagle sailed round Chatham Island, and anchored in several bays.

One night I slept on shore on a part of the island, where black

truncated cones were extraordinarily numerous: from one small eminence

I counted sixty of them, all surmounted by craters more or less

perfect. The greater number consisted merely of a ring of red scoriae

or slags, cemented together: and their height above the plain of lava

was not more than from fifty to a hundred feet; none had been very

lately active. The entire surface of this part of the island seems to

have been permeated, like a sieve, by the subterranean vapours: here

and there the lava, whilst soft, has been blown into great bubbles; and

in other parts, the tops of caverns similarly formed have fallen in,

leaving circular pits with steep sides. From the regular form of the

many craters, they gave to the country an artificial appearance, which

vividly reminded me of those parts of Staffordshire, where the great

iron-foundries are most numerous. The day was glowing hot, and the

scrambling over the rough surface and through the intricate thickets,

was very fatiguing; but I was well repaid by the strange Cyclopean

scene. As I was walking along I met two large tortoises, each of which

must have weighed at least two hundred pounds: one was eating a piece

of cactus, and as I approached, it stared at me and slowly walked away;

the other gave a deep hiss, and drew in its head. These huge reptiles,

surrounded by the black lava, the leafless shrubs, and large cacti,

seemed to my fancy like some antediluvian animals. The few

dull-coloured birds cared no more for me than they did for the great

tortoises.

23rd.--The Beagle proceeded to Charles Island. This archipelago has

long been frequented, first by the bucaniers, and latterly by whalers,

but it is only within the last six years, that a small colony has been

established here. The inhabitants are between two and three hundred in

number; they are nearly all people of colour, who have been banished

for political crimes from the Republic of the Equator, of which Quito

is the capital. The settlement is placed about four and a half miles

inland, and at a height probably of a thousand feet. In the first part

of the road we passed through leafless thickets, as in Chatham Island.

Higher up, the woods gradually became greener; and as soon as we

crossed the ridge of the island, we were cooled by a fine southerly

breeze, and our sight refreshed by a green and thriving vegetation. In

this upper region coarse grasses and ferns abound; but there are no

tree-ferns: I saw nowhere any member of the palm family, which is the

more singular, as 360 miles northward, Cocos Island takes its name from

the number of cocoa-nuts. The houses are irregularly scattered over a

flat space of ground, which is cultivated with sweet potatoes and

bananas. It will not easily be imagined how pleasant the sight of

black mud was to us, after having been so long, accustomed to the

parched soil of Peru and northern Chile. The inhabitants, although

complaining of poverty, obtain, without much trouble, the means of

subsistence. In the woods there are many wild pigs and goats; but the

staple article of animal food is supplied by the tortoises. Their

numbers have of course been greatly reduced in this island, but the

people yet count on two days' hunting giving them food for the rest of

the week. It is said that formerly single vessels have taken away as

many as seven hundred, and that the ship's company of a frigate some

years since brought down in one day two hundred tortoises to the beach.

September 29th.--We doubled the south-west extremity of Albemarle

Island, and the next day were nearly becalmed between it and Narborough

Island. Both are covered with immense deluges of black naked lava,

which have flowed either over the rims of the great caldrons, like

pitch over the rim of a pot in which it has been boiled, or have burst

forth from smaller orifices on the flanks; in their descent they have

spread over miles of the sea-coast. On both of these islands,

eruptions are known to have taken place; and in Albemarle, we saw a

small jet of smoke curling from the summit of one of the great craters.

In the evening we anchored in Bank's Cove, in Albemarle Island. The

next morning I went out walking. To the south of the broken

tuff-crater, in which the Beagle was anchored, there was another

beautifully symmetrical one of an elliptic form; its longer axis was a

little less than a mile, and its depth about 500 feet. At its bottom

there was a shallow lake, in the middle of which a tiny crater formed

an islet. The day was overpoweringly hot, and the lake looked clear

and blue: I hurried down the cindery slope, and, choked with dust,

eagerly tasted the water--but, to my sorrow, I found it salt as brine.

The rocks on the coast abounded with great black lizards, between three

and four feet long; and on the hills, an ugly yellowish-brown species

was equally common. We saw many of this latter kind, some clumsily

running out of the way, and others shuffling into their burrows. I

shall presently describe in more detail the habits of both these

reptiles. The whole of this northern part of Albemarle Island is

miserably sterile.

October 8th.--We arrived at James Island: this island, as well as

Charles Island, were long since thus named after our kings of the

Stuart line. Mr. Bynoe, myself, and our servants were left here for a

week, with provisions and a tent, whilst the Beagle went for water. We

found here a party of Spaniards, who had been sent from Charles Island

to dry fish, and to salt tortoise-meat. About six miles inland, and at

the height of nearly 2000 feet, a hovel had been built in which two men

lived, who were employed in catching tortoises, whilst the others were

fishing on the coast. I paid this party two visits, and slept there

one night. As in the other islands, the lower region was covered by

nearly leafless bushes, but the trees were here of a larger growth than

elsewhere, several being two feet and some even two feet nine inches in

diameter. The upper region being kept damp by the clouds, supports a

green and flourishing vegetation. So damp was the ground, that there

were large beds of a coarse cyperus, in which great numbers of a very

small water-rail lived and bred. While staying in this upper region,

we lived entirely upon tortoise-meat: the breast-plate roasted (as the

Gauchos do _carne con cuero_), with the flesh on it, is very good; and

the young tortoises make excellent soup; but otherwise the meat to my

taste is indifferent.

One day we accompanied a party of the Spaniards in their whale-boat to

a salina, or lake from which salt is procured. After landing, we had a

very rough walk over a rugged field of recent lava, which has almost

surrounded a tuff-crater, at the bottom of which the salt-lake lies.

The water is only three or four inches deep, and rests on a layer of

beautifully crystallized, white salt. The lake is quite circular, and

is fringed with a border of bright green succulent plants; the almost

precipitous walls of the crater are clothed with wood, so that the

scene was altogether both picturesque and curious. A few years since,

the sailors belonging to a sealing-vessel murdered their captain in

this quiet spot; and we saw his skull lying among the bushes.

During the greater part of our stay of a week, the sky was cloudless,

and if the trade-wind failed for an hour, the heat became very

oppressive. On two days, the thermometer within the tent stood for

some hours at 93 degs.; but in the open air, in the wind and sun, at

only 85 degs. The sand was extremely hot; the thermometer placed in

some of a brown colour immediately rose to 137 degs., and how much

above that it would have risen, I do not know, for it was not graduated

any higher. The black sand felt much hotter, so that even in thick

boots it was quite disagreeable to walk over it.

The natural history of these islands is eminently curious, and well

deserves attention. Most of the organic productions are aboriginal

creations, found nowhere else; there is even a difference between the

inhabitants of the different islands; yet all show a marked

relationship with those of America, though separated from that

continent by an open space of ocean, between 500 and 600 miles in

width. The archipelago is a little world within itself, or rather a

satellite attached to America, whence it has derived a few stray

colonists, and has received the general character of its indigenous

productions. Considering the small size of the islands, we feel the

more astonished at the number of their aboriginal beings, and at their

confined range. Seeing every height crowned with its crater, and the

boundaries of most of the lava-streams still distinct, we are led to

believe that within a period geologically recent the unbroken ocean was

here spread out. Hence, both in space and time, we seem to be brought

somewhat near to that great fact--that mystery of mysteries--the first

appearance of new beings on this earth.

Of terrestrial mammals, there is only one which must be considered as

indigenous, namely, a mouse (Mus Galapagoensis), and this is confined,

as far as I could ascertain, to Chatham Island, the most easterly

island of the group. It belongs, as I am informed by Mr. Waterhouse,

to a division of the family of mice characteristic of America. At

James Island, there is a rat sufficiently distinct from the common kind

to have been named and described by Mr. Waterhouse; but as it belongs

to the old-world division of the family, and as this island has been

frequented by ships for the last hundred and fifty years, I can hardly

doubt that this rat is merely a variety produced by the new and

peculiar climate, food, and soil, to which it has been subjected.

Although no one has a right to speculate without distinct facts, yet

even with respect to the Chatham Island mouse, it should be borne in

mind, that it may possibly be an American species imported here; for I

have seen, in a most unfrequented part of the Pampas, a native mouse

living in the roof of a newly built hovel, and therefore its

transportation in a vessel is not improbable: analogous facts have been

observed by Dr. Richardson in North America.

Of land-birds I obtained twenty-six kinds, all peculiar to the group

and found nowhere else, with the exception of one lark-like finch from

North America (Dolichonyx oryzivorus), which ranges on that continent

as far north as 54 degs., and generally frequents marshes. The other

twenty-five birds consist, firstly, of a hawk, curiously intermediate

in structure between a buzzard and the American group of

carrion-feeding Polybori; and with these latter birds it agrees most

closely in every habit and even tone of voice. Secondly, there are two

owls, representing the short-eared and white barn-owls of Europe.

Thirdly, a wren, three tyrant-flycatchers (two of them species of

Pyrocephalus, one or both of which would be ranked by some

ornithologists as only varieties), and a dove--all analogous to, but

distinct from, American species. Fourthly, a swallow, which though

differing from the Progne purpurea of both Americas, only in being

rather duller colored, smaller, and slenderer, is considered by Mr.

Gould as specifically distinct. Fifthly, there are three species of

mocking thrush--a form highly characteristic of America. The remaining

land-birds form a most singular group of finches, related to each other

in the structure of their beaks, short tails, form of body and plumage:

there are thirteen species, which Mr. Gould has divided into four

sub-groups. All these species are peculiar to this archipelago; and so

is the whole group, with the exception of one species of the sub-group

Cactornis, lately brought from Bow Island, in the Low Archipelago. Of

Cactornis, the two species may be often seen climbing about the flowers

of the great cactus-trees; but all the other species of this group of

finches, mingled together in flocks, feed on the dry and sterile ground

of the lower districts. The males of all, or certainly of the greater

number, are jet black; and the females (with perhaps one or two

exceptions) are brown. The most curious fact is the perfect gradation

in the size of the beaks in the different species of Geospiza, from one

as large as that of a hawfinch to that of a chaffinch, and (if Mr.

Gould is right in including his sub-group, Certhidea, in the main

group) even to that of a warbler. The largest beak in the genus

Geospiza is shown in Fig. 1, and the smallest in Fig. 3; but instead of

there being only one intermediate species, with a beak of the size

shown in Fig. 2, there are no less than six species with insensibly

graduated beaks. The beak of the sub-group Certhidea, is shown in Fig.

4. The beak of Cactornis is

[picture]

1. Geospiza magnirostris. 2. Geospiza fortis. 3. Geospiza parvula.

4. Certhidea olivasea.

somewhat like that of a starling, and that of the fourth sub-group,

Camarhynchus, is slightly parrot-shaped. Seeing this gradation and

diversity of structure in one small, intimately related group of birds,

one might really fancy that from an original paucity of birds in this

archipelago, one species had been taken and modified for different

ends. In a like manner it might be fancied that a bird originally a

buzzard, had been induced here to undertake the office of the

carrion-feeding Polybori of the American continent.

Of waders and water-birds I was able to get only eleven kinds, and of

these only three (including a rail confined to the damp summits of the

islands) are new species. Considering the wandering habits of the

gulls, I was surprised to find that the species inhabiting these

islands is peculiar, but allied to one from the southern parts of South

America. The far greater peculiarity of the land-birds, namely,

twenty-five out of twenty-six, being new species, or at least new

races, compared with the waders and web-footed birds, is in accordance

with the greater range which these latter orders have in all parts of

the world. We shall hereafter see this law of aquatic forms, whether

marine or fresh-water, being less peculiar at any given point of the

earth's surface than the terrestrial forms of the same classes,

strikingly illustrated in the shells, and in a lesser degree in the

insects of this archipelago.

Two of the waders are rather smaller than the same species brought from

other places: the swallow is also smaller, though it is doubtful

whether or not it is distinct from its analogue. The two owls, the two

tyrant-catchers (Pyrocephalus) and the dove, are also smaller than the

analogous but distinct species, to which they are most nearly related;

on the other hand, the gull is rather larger. The two owls, the

swallow, all three species of mocking-thrush, the dove in its separate

colours though not in its whole plumage, the Totanus, and the gull, are

likewise duskier coloured than their analogous species; and in the case

of the mocking-thrush and Totanus, than any other species of the two

genera. With the exception of a wren with a fine yellow breast, and of

a tyrant-flycatcher with a scarlet tuft and breast, none of the birds

are brilliantly coloured, as might have been expected in an equatorial

district. Hence it would appear probable, that the same causes which

here make the immigrants of some peculiar species smaller, make most of

the peculiar Galapageian species also smaller, as well as very

generally more dusky coloured. All the plants have a wretched, weedy

appearance, and I did not see one beautiful flower. The insects,

again, are small-sized and dull-coloured, and, as Mr. Waterhouse

informs me, there is nothing in their general appearance which would

have led him to imagine that they had come from under the equator. [1]

The birds, plants, and insects have a desert character, and are not

more brilliantly coloured than those from southern Patagonia; we may,

therefore, conclude that the usual gaudy colouring of the intertropical

productions, is not related either to the heat or light of those zones,

but to some other cause, perhaps to the conditions of existence being

generally favourable to life.

We will now turn to the order of reptiles, which gives the most

striking character to the zoology of these islands. The species are not

numerous, but the numbers of individuals of each species are

extraordinarily great. There is one small lizard belonging to a South

American genus, and two species (and probably more) of the

Amblyrhynchus--a genus confined to the Galapagos Islands. There is one

snake which is numerous; it is identical, as I am informed by M.

Bibron, with the Psammophis Temminckii from Chile. [2] Of sea-turtle I

believe there are more than one species, and of tortoises there are, as

we shall presently show, two or three species or races. Of toads and

frogs there are none: I was surprised at this, considering how well

suited for them the temperate and damp upper woods appeared to be. It

recalled to my mind the remark made by Bory St. Vincent, [3] namely,

that none of this family are found on any of the volcanic islands in

the great oceans. As far as I can ascertain from various works, this

seems to hold good throughout the Pacific, and even in the large

islands of the Sandwich archipelago. Mauritius offers an apparent

exception, where I saw the Rana Mascariensis in abundance: this frog is

said now to inhabit the Seychelles, Madagascar, and Bourbon; but on the

other hand, Du Bois, in his voyage in 1669, states that there were no

reptiles in Bourbon except tortoises; and the Officier du Roi asserts

that before 1768 it had been attempted, without success, to introduce

frogs into Mauritius--I presume for the purpose of eating: hence it may

be well doubted whether this frog is an aboriginal of these islands.

The absence of the frog family in the oceanic islands is the more

remarkable, when contrasted with the case of lizards, which swarm on

most of the smallest islands. May this difference not be caused, by

the greater facility with which the eggs of lizards, protected by

calcareous shells might be transported through salt-water, than could

the slimy spawn of frogs?

I will first describe the habits of the tortoise (Testudo nigra,

formerly called Indica), which has been so frequently alluded to. These

animals are found, I believe, on all the islands of the archipelago;

certainly on the greater number. They frequent in preference the high

damp parts, but they likewise live in the lower and arid districts. I

have already shown, from the numbers which have been caught in a single

day, how very numerous they must be. Some grow to an immense size: Mr.

Lawson, an Englishman, and vice-governor of the colony, told us that he

had seen several so large, that it required six or eight men to lift

them from the ground; and that some had afforded as much as two hundred

pounds of meat. The old males are the largest, the females rarely

growing to so great a size: the male can readily be distinguished from

the female by the greater length of its tail. The tortoises which live

on those islands where there is no water, or in the lower and arid

parts of the others, feed chiefly on the succulent cactus. Those which

frequent the higher and damp regions, eat the leaves of various trees,

a kind of berry (called guayavita) which is acid and austere, and

likewise a pale green filamentous lichen (Usnera plicata), that hangs

from the boughs of the trees.

The tortoise is very fond of water, drinking large quantities, and

wallowing in the mud. The larger islands alone possess springs, and

these are always situated towards the central parts, and at a

considerable height. The tortoises, therefore, which frequent the

lower districts, when thirsty, are obliged to travel from a long

distance. Hence broad and well-beaten paths branch off in every

direction from the wells down to the sea-coast; and the Spaniards by

following them up, first discovered the watering-places. When I landed

at Chatham Island, I could not imagine what animal travelled so

methodically along well-chosen tracks. Near the springs it was a

curious spectacle to behold many of these huge creatures, one set

eagerly travelling onwards with outstretched necks, and another set

returning, after having drunk their fill. When the tortoise arrives at

the spring, quite regardless of any spectator, he buries his head in

the water above his eyes, and greedily swallows great mouthfuls, at the

rate of about ten in a minute. The inhabitants say each animal stays

three or four days in the neighbourhood of the water, and then returns

to the lower country; but they differed respecting the frequency of

these visits. The animal probably regulates them according to the

nature of the food on which it has lived. It is, however, certain,

that tortoises can subsist even on these islands where there is no

other water than what falls during a few rainy days in the year.

I believe it is well ascertained, that the bladder of the frog acts as

a reservoir for the moisture necessary to its existence: such seems to

be the case with the tortoise. For some time after a visit to the

springs, their urinary bladders are distended with fluid, which is said

gradually to decrease in volume, and to become less pure. The

inhabitants, when walking in the lower district, and overcome with

thirst, often take advantage of this circumstance, and drink the

contents of the bladder if full: in one I saw killed, the fluid was

quite limpid, and had only a very slightly bitter taste. The

inhabitants, however, always first drink the water in the pericardium,

which is described as being best.

The tortoises, when purposely moving towards any point, travel by night

and day, and arrive at their journey's end much sooner than would be

expected. The inhabitants, from observing marked individuals, consider

that they travel a distance of about eight miles in two or three days.

One large tortoise, which I watched, walked at the rate of sixty yards

in ten minutes, that is 360 yards in the hour, or four miles a

day,--allowing a little time for it to eat on the road. During the

breeding season, when the male and female are together, the male utters

a hoarse roar or bellowing, which, it is said, can be heard at the

distance of more than a hundred yards. The female never uses her voice,

and the male only at these times; so that when the people hear this

noise, they know that the two are together. They were at this time

(October) laying their eggs. The female, where the soil is sandy,

deposits them together, and covers them up with sand; but where the

ground is rocky she drops them indiscriminately in any hole: Mr. Bynoe

found seven placed in a fissure. The egg is white and spherical; one

which I measured was seven inches and three-eighths in circumference,

and therefore larger than a hen's egg. The young tortoises, as soon as

they are hatched, fall a prey in great numbers to the carrion-feeding

buzzard. The old ones seem generally to die from accidents, as from

falling down precipices: at least, several of the inhabitants told me,

that they never found one dead without some evident cause.

The inhabitants believe that these animals are absolutely deaf;

certainly they do not overhear a person walking close behind them. I

was always amused when overtaking one of these great monsters, as it

was quietly pacing along, to see how suddenly, the instant I passed, it

would draw in its head and legs, and uttering a deep hiss fall to the

ground with a heavy sound, as if struck dead. I frequently got on

their backs, and then giving a few raps on the hinder part of their

shells, they would rise up and walk away;--but I found it very

difficult to keep my balance. The flesh of this animal is largely

employed, both fresh and salted; and a beautifully clear oil is

prepared from the fat. When a tortoise is caught, the man makes a slit

in the skin near its tail, so as to see inside its body, whether the

fat under the dorsal plate is thick. If it is not, the animal is

liberated and it is said to recover soon from this strange operation.

In order to secure the tortoise, it is not sufficient to turn them like

turtle, for they are often able to get on their legs again.

There can be little doubt that this tortoise is an aboriginal

inhabitant of the Galapagos; for it is found on all, or nearly all, the

islands, even on some of the smaller ones where there is no water; had

it been an imported species, this would hardly have been the case in a

group which has been so little frequented. Moreover, the old Bucaniers

found this tortoise in greater numbers even than at present: Wood and

Rogers also, in 1708, say that it is the opinion of the Spaniards, that

it is found nowhere else in this quarter of the world. It is now

widely distributed; but it may be questioned whether it is in any other

place an aboriginal. The bones of a tortoise at Mauritius, associated

with those of the extinct Dodo, have generally been considered as

belonging to this tortoise; if this had been so, undoubtedly it must

have been there indigenous; but M. Bibron informs me that he believes

that it was distinct, as the species now living there certainly is.

The Amblyrhynchus, a remarkable genus of lizards, is confined to this

archipelago; there are two species, resembling

[picture]

each other in general form, one being terrestrial and the other

aquatic. This latter species (A. cristatus) was first characterized by

Mr. Bell, who well foresaw, from its short, broad head, and strong

claws of equal length, that its habits of life would turn out very

peculiar, and different from those of its nearest ally, the Iguana. It

is extremely common on all the islands throughout the group, and lives

exclusively on the rocky sea-beaches, being never found, at least I

never saw one, even ten yards in-shore. It is a hideous-looking

creature, of a dirty black colour, stupid, and sluggish in its

movements. The usual length of a full-grown one is about a yard, but

there are some even four feet long; a large one weighed twenty pounds:

on the island of Albemarle they seem to grow to a greater size than

elsewhere. Their tails are flattened sideways, and all four feet

partially webbed. They are occasionally seen some hundred yards from

the shore, swimming about; and Captain Collnett, in his Voyage says,

"They go to sea in herds a-fishing, and sun themselves on the rocks;

and may be called alligators in miniature." It must not, however, be

supposed that they live on fish. When in the water this lizard swims

with perfect ease and quickness, by a serpentine movement of its body

and flattened tail--the legs being motionless and closely collapsed on

its sides. A seaman on board sank one, with a heavy weight attached to

it, thinking thus to kill it directly; but when, an hour afterwards, he

drew up the line, it was quite active. Their limbs and strong claws

are admirably adapted for crawling over the rugged and fissured masses

of lava, which everywhere form the coast. In such situations, a group

of six or seven of these hideous reptiles may oftentimes be seen on the

black rocks, a few feet above the surf, basking in the sun with

outstretched legs.

I opened the stomachs of several, and found them largely distended with

minced sea-weed (Ulvae), which grows in thin foliaceous expansions of a

bright green or a dull red colour. I do not recollect having observed

this sea-weed in any quantity on the tidal rocks; and I have reason to

believe it grows at the bottom of the sea, at some little distance from

the coast. If such be the case, the object of these animals

occasionally going out to sea is explained. The stomach contained

nothing but the sea-weed. Mr. Baynoe, however, found a piece of crab

in one; but this might have got in accidentally, in the same manner as

I have seen a caterpillar, in the midst of some lichen, in the paunch

of a tortoise. The intestines were large, as in other herbivorous

animals. The nature of this lizard's food, as well as the structure of

its tail and feet, and the fact of its having been seen voluntarily

swimming out at sea, absolutely prove its aquatic habits; yet there is

in this respect one strange anomaly, namely, that when frightened it

will not enter the water. Hence it is easy to drive these lizards down

to any little point overhanging the sea, where they will sooner allow a

person to catch hold of their tails than jump into the water. They do

not seem to have any notion of biting; but when much frightened they

squirt a drop of fluid from each nostril. I threw one several times as

far as I could, into a deep pool left by the retiring tide; but it

invariably returned in a direct line to the spot where I stood. It

swam near the bottom, with a very graceful and rapid movement, and

occasionally aided itself over the uneven ground with its feet. As

soon as it arrived near the edge, but still being under water, it tried

to conceal itself in the tufts of sea-weed, or it entered some crevice.

As soon as it thought the danger was past, it crawled out on the dry

rocks, and shuffled away as quickly as it could. I several times

caught this same lizard, by driving it down to a point, and though

possessed of such perfect powers of diving and swimming, nothing would

induce it to enter the water; and as often as I threw it in, it

returned in the manner above described. Perhaps this singular piece of

apparent stupidity may be accounted for by the circumstance, that this

reptile has no enemy whatever on shore, whereas at sea it must often

fall a prey to the numerous sharks. Hence, probably, urged by a fixed

and hereditary instinct that the shore is its place of safety, whatever

the emergency may be, it there takes refuge.

During our visit (in October), I saw extremely few small individuals of

this species, and none I should think under a year old. From this

circumstance it seems probable that the breeding season had not then

commenced. I asked several of the inhabitants if they knew where it

laid its eggs: they said that they knew nothing of its propagation,

although well acquainted with the eggs of the land kind--a fact,

considering how very common this lizard is, not a little extraordinary.

We will now turn to the terrestrial species (A. Demarlii), with a round

tail, and toes without webs. This lizard, instead of being found like

the other on all the islands, is confined to the central part of the

archipelago, namely to Albemarle, James, Barrington, and Indefatigable

islands. To the southward, in Charles, Hood, and Chatham islands, and

to the northward, in Towers, Bindloes, and Abingdon, I neither saw nor

heard of any. It would appear as if it had been created in the centre

of the archipelago, and thence had been dispersed only to a certain

distance. Some of these lizards inhabit the high and damp parts of the

islands, but they are much more numerous in the lower and sterile

districts near the coast. I cannot give a more forcible proof of their

numbers, than by stating that when we were left at James Island, we

could not for some time find a spot free from their burrows on which to

pitch our single tent. Like their brothers the sea-kind, they are ugly

animals, of a yellowish orange beneath, and of a brownish red colour

above: from their low facial angle they have a singularly stupid

appearance. They are, perhaps, of a rather less size than the marine

species; but several of them weighed between ten and fifteen pounds. In

their movements they are lazy and half torpid. When not frightened,

they slowly crawl along with their tails and bellies dragging on the

ground. They often stop, and doze for a minute or two, with closed

eyes and hind legs spread out on the parched soil.

They inhabit burrows, which they sometimes make between fragments of

lava, but more generally on level patches of the soft sandstone-like

tuff. The holes do not appear to be very deep, and they enter the

ground at a small angle; so that when walking over these

lizard-warrens, the soil is constantly giving way, much to the

annoyance of the tired walker. This animal, when making its burrow,

works alternately the opposite sides of its body. One front leg for a

short time scratches up the soil, and throws it towards the hind foot,

which is well placed so as to heave it beyond the mouth of the hole.

That side of the body being tired, the other takes up the task, and so

on alternately. I watched one for a long time, till half its body was

buried; I then walked up and pulled it by the tail, at this it was

greatly astonished, and soon shuffled up to see what was the matter;

and then stared me in the face, as much as to say, "What made you pull

my tail?"

They feed by day, and do not wander far from their burrows; if

frightened, they rush to them with a most awkward gait. Except when

running down hill, they cannot move very fast, apparently from the

lateral position of their legs. They are not at all timorous: when

attentively watching any one, they curl their tails, and, raising

themselves on their front legs, nod their heads vertically, with a

quick movement, and try to look very fierce; but in reality they are

not at all so: if one just stamps on the ground, down go their tails,

and off they shuffle as quickly as they can. I have frequently

observed small fly-eating lizards, when watching anything, nod their

heads in precisely the same manner; but I do not at all know for what

purpose. If this Amblyrhynchus is held and plagued with a stick, it

will bite it very severely; but I caught many by the tail, and they

never tried to bite me. If two are placed on the ground and held

together, they will fight, and bite each other till blood is drawn.

The individuals, and they are the greater number, which inhabit the

lower country, can scarcely taste a drop of water throughout the year;

but they consume much of the succulent cactus, the branches of which

are occasionally broken off by the wind. I several times threw a piece

to two or three of them when together; and it was amusing enough to see

them trying to seize and carry it away in their mouths, like so many

hungry dogs with a bone. They eat very deliberately, but do not chew

their food. The little birds are aware how harmless these creatures

are: I have seen one of the thick-billed finches picking at one end of

a piece of cactus (which is much relished by all the animals of the

lower region), whilst a lizard was eating at the other end; and

afterwards the little bird with the utmost indifference hopped on the

back of the reptile.

I opened the stomachs of several, and found them full of vegetable

fibres and leaves of different trees, especially of an acacia. In the

upper region they live chiefly on the acid and astringent berries of

the guayavita, under which trees I have seen these lizards and the huge

tortoises feeding together. To obtain the acacia-leaves they crawl up

the low stunted trees; and it is not uncommon to see a pair quietly

browsing, whilst seated on a branch several feet above the ground.

These lizards, when cooked, yield a white meat, which is liked by those

whose stomachs soar above all prejudices.

Humboldt has remarked that in intertropical South America, all lizards

which inhabit dry regions are esteemed delicacies for the table. The

inhabitants state that those which inhabit the upper damp parts drink

water, but that the others do not, like the tortoises, travel up for it

from the lower sterile country. At the time of our visit, the females

had within their bodies numerous, large, elongated eggs, which they lay

in their burrows: the inhabitants seek them for food.

These two species of Amblyrhynchus agree, as I have already stated, in

their general structure, and in many of their habits. Neither have

that rapid movement, so characteristic of the genera Lacerta and

Iguana. They are both herbivorous, although the kind of vegetation on

which they feed is so very different. Mr. Bell has given the name to

the genus from the shortness of the snout: indeed, the form of the

mouth may almost be compared to that of the tortoise: one is led to

suppose that this is an adaptation to their herbivorous appetites. It

is very interesting thus to find a well-characterized genus, having its

marine and terrestrial species, belonging to so confined a portion of

the world. The aquatic species is by far the most remarkable, because

it is the only existing lizard which lives on marine vegetable

productions. As I at first observed, these islands are not so

remarkable for the number of the species of reptiles, as for that of

the individuals, when we remember the well-beaten paths made by the

thousands of huge tortoises--the many turtles--the great warrens of the

terrestrial Amblyrhynchus--and the groups of the marine species basking

on the coast-rocks of every island--we must admit that there is no

other quarter of the world where this Order replaces the herbivorous

mammalia in so extraordinary a manner. The geologist on hearing this

will probably refer back in his mind to the Secondary epochs, when

lizards, some herbivorous, some carnivorous, and of dimensions

comparable only with our existing whales, swarmed on the land and in

the sea. It is, therefore, worthy of his observation, that this

archipelago, instead of possessing a humid climate and rank vegetation,

cannot be considered otherwise than extremely arid, and, for an

equatorial region, remarkably temperate.

To finish with the zoology: the fifteen kinds of sea-fish which I

procured here are all new species; they belong to twelve genera, all

widely distributed, with the exception of Prionotus, of which the four

previously known species live on the eastern side of America. Of

land-shells I collected sixteen kinds (and two marked varieties), of

which, with the exception of one Helix found at Tahiti, all are

peculiar to this archipelago: a single fresh-water shell (Paludina) is

common to Tahiti and Van Diemen's Land. Mr. Cuming, before our voyage

procured here ninety species of sea-shells, and this does not include

several species not yet specifically examined, of Trochus, Turbo,

Monodonta, and Nassa. He has been kind enough to give me the following

interesting results: Of the ninety shells, no less than forty-seven are

unknown elsewhere--a wonderful fact, considering how widely distributed

sea-shells generally are. Of the forty-three shells found in other

parts of the world, twenty-five inhabit the western coast of America,

and of these eight are distinguishable as varieties; the remaining

eighteen (including one variety) were found by Mr. Cuming in the Low

Archipelago, and some of them also at the Philippines. This fact of

shells from islands in the central parts of the Pacific occurring here,

deserves notice, for not one single sea-shell is known to be common to

the islands of that ocean and to the west coast of America. The space

of open sea running north and south off the west coast, separates two

quite distinct conchological provinces; but at the Galapagos

Archipelago we have a halting-place, where many new forms have been

created, and whither these two great conchological provinces have each

sent up several colonists. The American province has also sent here

representative species; for there is a Galapageian species of

Monoceros, a genus only found on the west coast of America; and there

are Galapageian species of Fissurella and Cancellaria, genera common on

the west coast, but not found (as I am informed by Mr. Cuming) in the

central islands of the Pacific. On the other hand, there are

Galapageian species of Oniscia and Stylifer, genera common to the West

Indies and to the Chinese and Indian seas, but not found either on the

west coast of America or in the central Pacific. I may here add, that

after the comparison by Messrs. Cuming and Hinds of about 2000 shells

from the eastern and western coasts of America, only one single shell

was found in common, namely, the Purpura patula, which inhabits the

West Indies, the coast of Panama, and the Galapagos. We have,

therefore, in this quarter of the world, three great conchological

sea-provinces, quite distinct, though surprisingly near each other,

being separated by long north and south spaces either of land or of

open sea.

I took great pains in collecting the insects, but excepting Tierra del

Fuego, I never saw in this respect so poor a country. Even in the upper

and damp region I procured very few, excepting some minute Diptera and

Hymenoptera, mostly of common mundane forms. As before remarked, the

insects, for a tropical region, are of very small size and dull

colours. Of beetles I collected twenty-five species (excluding a

Dermestes and Corynetes imported, wherever a ship touches); of these,

two belong to the Harpalidae, two to the Hydrophilidae, nine to three

families of the Heteromera, and the remaining twelve to as many

different families. This circumstance of insects (and I may add

plants), where few in number, belonging to many different families, is,

I believe, very general. Mr. Waterhouse, who has published [4] an

account of the insects of this archipelago, and to whom I am indebted

for the above details, informs me that there are several new genera:

and that of the genera not new, one or two are American, and the rest

of mundane distribution. With the exception of a wood-feeding Apate,

and of one or probably two water-beetles from the American continent,

all the species appear to be new.

The botany of this group is fully as interesting as the zoology. Dr.

J. Hooker will soon publish in the "Linnean Transactions" a full

account of the Flora, and I am much indebted to him for the following

details. Of flowering plants there are, as far as at present is known,

185 species, and 40 cryptogamic species, making altogether 225; of this

number I was fortunate enough to bring home 193. Of the flowering

plants, 100 are new species, and are probably confined to this

archipelago. Dr. Hooker conceives that, of the plants not so confined,

at least 10 species found near the cultivated ground at Charles Island,

have been imported. It is, I think, surprising that more American

species have not been introduced naturally, considering that the

distance is only between 500 and 600 miles from the continent, and that

(according to Collnet, p. 58) drift-wood, bamboos, canes, and the nuts

of a palm, are often washed on the south-eastern shores. The

proportion of 100 flowering plants out of 183 (or 175 excluding the

imported weeds) being new, is sufficient, I conceive, to make the

Galapagos Archipelago a distinct botanical province; but this Flora is

not nearly so peculiar as that of St. Helena, nor, as I am informed by

Dr. Hooker, of Juan Fernandez. The peculiarity of the Galapageian

Flora is best shown in certain families;--thus there are 21 species of

Compositae, of which 20 are peculiar to this archipelago; these belong

to twelve genera, and of these genera no less than ten are confined to

the archipelago! Dr. Hooker informs me that the Flora has an

undoubtedly Western American character; nor can he detect in it any

affinity with that of the Pacific. If, therefore, we except the

eighteen marine, the one fresh-water, and one land-shell, which have

apparently come here as colonists from the central islands of the

Pacific, and likewise the one distinct Pacific species of the

Galapageian group of finches, we see that this archipelago, though

standing in the Pacific Ocean, is zoologically part of America.

If this character were owing merely to immigrants from America, there

would be little remarkable in it; but we see that a vast majority of

all the land animals, and that more than half of the flowering plants,

are aboriginal productions. It was most striking to be surrounded by new

birds, new reptiles, new shells, new insects, new plants, and yet by

innumerable trifling details of structure, and even by the tones of

voice and plumage of the birds, to have the temperate plains of

Patagonia, or rather the hot dry deserts of Northern Chile, vividly

brought before my eyes. Why, on these small points of land, which

within a late geological period must have been covered by the ocean,

which are formed by basaltic lava, and therefore differ in geological

character from the American continent, and which are placed under a

peculiar climate,--why were their aboriginal inhabitants, associated, I

may add, in different proportions both in kind and number from those on

the continent, and therefore acting on each other in a different

manner--why were they created on American types of organization? It is

probable that the islands of the Cape de Verd group resemble, in all

their physical conditions, far more closely the Galapagos Islands, than

these latter physically resemble the coast of America, yet the

aboriginal inhabitants of the two groups are totally unlike; those of

the Cape de Verd Islands bearing the impress of Africa, as the

inhabitants of the Galapagos Archipelago are stamped with that of

America.

I have not as yet noticed by far the most remarkable feature in the

natural history of this archipelago; it is, that the different islands

to a considerable extent are inhabited by a different set of beings. My

attention was first called to this fact by the Vice-Governor, Mr.

Lawson, declaring that the tortoises differed from the different

islands, and that he could with certainty tell from which island any

one was brought. I did not for some time pay sufficient attention to

this statement, and I had already partially mingled together the

collections from two of the islands. I never dreamed that islands,

about 50 or 60 miles apart, and most of them in sight of each other,

formed of precisely the same rocks, placed under a quite similar

climate, rising to a nearly equal height, would have been differently

tenanted; but we shall soon see that this is the case. It is the fate

of most voyagers, no sooner to discover what is most interesting in any

locality, than they are hurried from it; but I ought, perhaps, to be

thankful that I obtained sufficient materials to establish this most

remarkable fact in the distribution of organic beings.

The inhabitants, as I have said, state that they can distinguish the

tortoises from the different islands; and that they differ not only in

size, but in other characters. Captain Porter has described [5] those

from Charles and from the nearest island to it, namely, Hood Island, as

having their shells in front thick and turned up like a Spanish saddle,

whilst the tortoises from James Island are rounder, blacker, and have a

better taste when cooked. M. Bibron, moreover, informs me that he has

seen what he considers two distinct species of tortoise from the

Galapagos, but he does not know from which islands. The specimens that

I brought from three islands were young ones: and probably owing to

this cause neither Mr. Gray nor myself could find in them any specific

differences. I have remarked that the marine Amblyrhynchus was larger

at Albemarle Island than elsewhere; and M. Bibron informs me that he

has seen two distinct aquatic species of this genus; so that the

different islands probably have their representative species or races

of the Amblyrhynchus, as well as of the tortoise. My attention was

first thoroughly aroused, by comparing together the numerous specimens,

shot by myself and several other parties on board, of the

mocking-thrushes, when, to my astonishment, I discovered that all those

from Charles Island belonged to one species (Mimus trifasciatus) all

from Albemarle Island to M. parvulus; and all from James and Chatham

Islands (between which two other islands are situated, as connecting

links) belonged to M. melanotis. These two latter species are closely

allied, and would by some ornithologists be considered as only

well-marked races or varieties; but the Mimus trifasciatus is very

distinct. Unfortunately most of the specimens of the finch tribe were

mingled together; but I have strong reasons to suspect that some of the

species of the sub-group Geospiza are confined to separate islands. If

the different islands have their representatives of Geospiza, it may

help to explain the singularly large number of the species of this

sub-group in this one small archipelago, and as a probable consequence

of their numbers, the perfectly graduated series in the size of their

beaks. Two species of the sub-group Cactornis, and two of the

Camarhynchus, were procured in the archipelago; and of the numerous

specimens of these two sub-groups shot by four collectors at James

Island, all were found to belong to one species of each; whereas the

numerous specimens shot either on Chatham or Charles Island (for the

two sets were mingled together) all belonged to the two other species:

hence we may feel almost sure that these islands possess their

respective species of these two sub-groups. In land-shells this law of

distribution does not appear to hold good. In my very small collection

of insects, Mr. Waterhouse remarks, that of those which were ticketed

with their locality, not one was common to any two of the islands.

If we now turn to the Flora, we shall find the aboriginal plants of the

different islands wonderfully different. I give all the following

results on the high authority of my friend Dr. J. Hooker. I may

premise that I indiscriminately collected everything in flower on the

different islands, and fortunately kept my collections separate. Too

much confidence, however, must not be placed in the proportional

results, as the small collections brought home by some other

naturalists though in some respects confirming the results, plainly

show that much remains to be done in the botany of this group: the

Leguminosae, moreover, has as yet been only approximately worked out:--

----------------------------------------------------------------

Number of

Species

confined

to the

Number of Number of Galapagos

species species Number Archipelago

Total found in confined confined but found

Name Number other to the to the on more

of of parts of Galapagos one than the

Island Species the world Archipelago island one island

----------------------------------------------------------------

James 71 33 38 30 8

Albemarle 46 18 26 22 4

Chatham 32 16 16 12 4

Charles 68 39 29 21 8

(or 29, if

the probably

imported

plants be

subtracted.)

----------------------------------------------------------------

Hence we have the truly wonderful fact, that in James Island, of the

thirty-eight Galapageian plants, or those found in no other part of the

world, thirty are exclusively confined to this one island; and in

Albemarle Island, of the twenty-six aboriginal Galapageian plants,

twenty-two are confined to this one island, that is, only four are at

present known to grow in the other islands of the archipelago; and so

on, as shown in the above table, with the plants from Chatham and

Charles Islands. This fact will, perhaps, be rendered even more

striking, by giving a few illustrations:--thus, Scalesia, a remarkable

arborescent genus of the Compositae, is confined to the archipelago: it

has six species: one from Chatham, one from Albemarle, one from Charles

Island, two from James Island, and the sixth from one of the three

latter islands, but it is not known from which: not one of these six

species grows on any two islands. Again, Euphorbia, a mundane or

widely distributed genus, has here eight species, of which seven are

confined to the archipelago, and not one found on any two islands:

Acalypha and Borreria, both mundane genera, have respectively six and

seven species, none of which have the same species on two islands, with

the exception of one Borreria, which does occur on two islands. The

species of the Compositae are particularly local; and Dr. Hooker has

furnished me with several other most striking illustrations of the

difference of the species on the different islands. He remarks that

this law of distribution holds good both with those genera confined to

the archipelago, and those distributed in other quarters of the world:

in like manner we have seen that the different islands have their

proper species of the mundane genus of tortoise, and of the widely

distributed American genus of the mocking-thrush, as well as of two of

the Galapageian sub-groups of finches, and almost certainly of the

Galapageian genus Amblyrhynchus.

The distribution of the tenants of this archipelago would not be nearly

so wonderful, if, for instance, one island had a mocking-thrush, and a

second island some other quite distinct genus,--if one island had its

genus of lizard, and a second island another distinct genus, or none

whatever;--or if the different islands were inhabited, not by

representative species of the same genera of plants, but by totally

different genera, as does to a certain extent hold good: for, to give

one instance, a large berry-bearing tree at James Island has no

representative species in Charles Island. But it is the circumstance,

that several of the islands possess their own species of the tortoise,

mocking-thrush, finches, and numerous plants, these species having the

same general habits, occupying analogous situations, and obviously

filling the same place in the natural economy of this archipelago, that

strikes me with wonder. It may be suspected that some of these

representative species, at least in the case of the tortoise and of

some of the birds, may hereafter prove to be only well-marked races;

but this would be of equally great interest to the philosophical

naturalist. I have said that most of the islands are in sight of each

other: I may specify that Charles Island is fifty miles from the

nearest part of Chatham Island, and thirty-three miles from the nearest

part of Albemarle Island. Chatham Island is sixty miles from the

nearest part of James Island, but there are two intermediate islands

between them which were not visited by me. James Island is only ten

miles from the nearest part of Albemarle Island, but the two points

where the collections were made are thirty-two miles apart. I must

repeat, that neither the nature of the soil, nor height of the land,

nor the climate, nor the general character of the associated beings,

and therefore their action one on another, can differ much in the

different islands. If there be any sensible difference in their

climates, it must be between the Windward group (namely, Charles and

Chatham Islands), and that to leeward; but there seems to be no

corresponding difference in the productions of these two halves of the

archipelago.

The only light which I can throw on this remarkable difference in the

inhabitants of the different islands, is, that very strong currents of

the sea running in a westerly and W.N.W. direction must separate, as

far as transportal by the sea is concerned, the southern islands from

the northern ones; and between these northern islands a strong N.W.

current was observed, which must effectually separate James and

Albemarle Islands. As the archipelago is free to a most remarkable

degree from gales of wind, neither the birds, insects, nor lighter

seeds, would be blown from island to island. And lastly, the profound

depth of the ocean between the islands, and their apparently recent (in

a geological sense) volcanic origin, render it highly unlikely that

they were ever united; and this, probably, is a far more important

consideration than any other, with respect to the geographical

distribution of their inhabitants. Reviewing the facts here given, one

is astonished at the amount of creative force, if such an expression

may be used, displayed on these small, barren, and rocky islands; and

still more so, at its diverse yet analogous action on points so near

each other. I have said that the Galapagos Archipelago might be called

a satellite attached to America, but it should rather be called a group

of satellites, physically similar, organically distinct, yet intimately

related to each other, and all related in a marked, though much lesser

degree, to the great American continent.

I will conclude my description of the natural history of these islands,

by giving an account of the extreme tameness of the birds.

This disposition is common to all the terrestrial species; namely, to

the mocking-thrushes, the finches, wrens, tyrant-flycatchers, the dove,

and carrion-buzzard. All of them are often approached sufficiently

near to be killed with a switch, and sometimes, as I myself tried, with

a cap or hat. A gun is here almost superfluous; for with the muzzle I

pushed a hawk off the branch of a tree. One day, whilst lying down, a

mocking-thrush alighted on the edge of a pitcher, made of the shell of

a tortoise, which I held in my hand, and began very quietly to sip the

water; it allowed me to lift it from the ground whilst seated on the

vessel: I often tried, and very nearly succeeded, in catching these

birds by their legs. Formerly the birds appear to have been even tamer

than at present. Cowley (in the year 1684) says that the "Turtledoves

were so tame, that they would often alight on our hats and arms, so as

that we could take them alive, they not fearing man, until such time as

some of our company did fire at them, whereby they were rendered more

shy." Dampier also, in the same year, says that a man in a morning's

walk might kill six or seven dozen of these doves. At present,

although certainly very tame, they do not alight on people's arms, nor

do they suffer themselves to be killed in such large numbers. It is

surprising that they have not become wilder; for these islands during

the last hundred and fifty years have been frequently visited by

bucaniers and whalers; and the sailors, wandering through the wood in

search of tortoises, always take cruel delight in knocking down the

little birds. These birds, although now still more persecuted, do not

readily become wild. In Charles Island, which had then been colonized

about six years, I saw a boy sitting by a well with a switch in his

hand, with which he killed the doves and finches as they came to drink.

He had already procured a little heap of them for his dinner, and he

said that he had constantly been in the habit of waiting by this well

for the same purpose. It would appear that the birds of this

archipelago, not having as yet learnt that man is a more dangerous

animal than the tortoise or the Amblyrhynchus, disregard him, in the

same manner as in England shy birds, such as magpies, disregard the

cows and horses grazing in our fields.

The Falkland Islands offer a second instance of birds with a similar

disposition. The extraordinary tameness of the little Opetiorhynchus

has been remarked by Pernety, Lesson, and other voyagers. It is not,

however, peculiar to that bird: the Polyborus, snipe, upland and

lowland goose, thrush, bunting, and even some true hawks, are all more

or less tame. As the birds are so tame there, where foxes, hawks, and

owls occur, we may infer that the absence of all rapacious animals at

the Galapagos, is not the cause of their tameness here. The upland

geese at the Falklands show, by the precaution they take in building on

the islets, that they are aware of their danger from the foxes; but

they are not by this rendered wild towards man. This tameness of the

birds, especially of the water-fowl, is strongly contrasted with the

habits of the same species in Tierra del Fuego, where for ages past

they have been persecuted by the wild inhabitants. In the Falklands,

the sportsman may sometimes kill more of the upland geese in one day

than he can carry home; whereas in Tierra del Fuego it is nearly as

difficult to kill one, as it is in England to shoot the common wild

goose.

In the time of Pernety (1763), all the birds there appear to have been

much tamer than at present; he states that the Opetiorhynchus would

almost perch on his finger; and that with a wand he killed ten in half

an hour. At that period the birds must have been about as tame as they

now are at the Galapagos. They appear to have learnt caution more

slowly at these latter islands than at the Falklands, where they have

had proportionate means of experience; for besides frequent visits from

vessels, those islands have been at intervals colonized during the

entire period. Even formerly, when all the birds were so tame, it was

impossible by Pernety's account to kill the black-necked swan--a bird

of passage, which probably brought with it the wisdom learnt in foreign

countries.

I may add that, according to Du Bois, all the birds at Bourbon in

1571-72, with the exception of the flamingoes and geese, were so

extremely tame, that they could be caught by the hand, or killed in any

number with a stick. Again, at Tristan d'Acunha in the Atlantic,

Carmichael [6] states that the only two land-birds, a thrush and a

bunting, were "so tame as to suffer themselves to be caught with a

hand-net." From these several facts we may, I think, conclude, first,

that the wildness of birds with regard to man, is a particular instinct

directed against _him_, and not dependent upon any general degree of

caution arising from other sources of danger; secondly, that it is not

acquired by individual birds in a short time, even when much

persecuted; but that in the course of successive generations it becomes

hereditary. With domesticated animals we are accustomed to see new

mental habits or instincts acquired or rendered hereditary; but with

animals in a state of nature, it must always be most difficult to

discover instances of acquired hereditary knowledge. In regard to the

wildness of birds towards man, there is no way of accounting for it,

except as an inherited habit: comparatively few young birds, in any one

year, have been injured by man in England, yet almost all, even

nestlings, are afraid of him; many individuals, on the other hand, both

at the Galapagos and at the Falklands, have been pursued and injured by

man, yet have not learned a salutary dread of him. We may infer from

these facts, what havoc the introduction of any new beast of prey must

cause in a country, before the instincts of the indigenous inhabitants

have become adapted to the stranger's craft or power.

[1] The progress of research has shown that some of these birds, which

were then thought to be confined to the islands, occur on the American

continent. The eminent ornithologist, Mr. Sclater, informs me that

this is the case with the Strix punctatissima and Pyrocephalus nanus;

and probably with the Otus Galapagoensis and Zenaida Galapagoensis: so

that the number of endemic birds is reduced to twenty-three, or

probably to twenty-one. Mr. Sclater thinks that one or two of these

endemic forms should be ranked rather as varieties than species, which

always seemed to me probable.

[2] This is stated by Dr. Gunther (Zoolog. Soc. Jan 24th, 1859) to be a

peculiar species, not known to inhabit any other country.

[3] Voyage aux Quatre Iles d'Afrique. With respect to the Sandwich

Islands, see Tyerman and Bennett's Journal, vol. i. p. 434. For

Mauritius, see Voyage par un Officier, etc., part i. p. 170. There are

no frogs in the Canary Islands (Webb et Berthelot, Hist. Nat. des Iles

Canaries). I saw none at St. Jago in the Cape de Verds. There are

none at St. Helena.

[4] Ann. and Mag. of Nat. Hist., vol. xvi. p. 19.

[5] Voyage in the U. S. ship Essex, vol. i. p. 215.

[6] Linn. Trans., vol. xii. p. 496. The most anomalous fact on this

subject which I have met with is the wildness of the small birds in the

Arctic parts of North America (as described by Richardson, Fauna Bor.,

vol. ii. p. 332), where they are said never to be persecuted. This

case is the more strange, because it is asserted that some of the same

species in their winter-quarters in the United States are tame. There

is much, as Dr. Richardson well remarks, utterly inexplicable connected

with the different degrees of shyness and care with which birds conceal

their nests. How strange it is that the English wood-pigeon, generally

so wild a bird, should very frequently rear its young in shrubberies

close to houses!

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