Death of our engineer--Scarcity of game--The cold unusually
trying--Jolly, under adverse circumstances--Petersen's
information--Return of the sun of 1859--Early spring
sledge-parties--Unusual severity of the winter--Severe hardships of
early sledging--The western shores of Boothia--Meet the
Esquimaux--Intelligence of Franklin's ships--Return to the
'Fox'--Allen Young returns.
{DEATH OF OUR ENGINEER.}
_Nov. 7th._--_Sunday evening._--Brief as is the interval since my last
entry, yet how awful, and, to one of our small company, how fatal it has
been! Yesterday Mr. Brand was out shooting as usual, and in robust
health; in the evening Hobson sat with him for a little time. Mr. Brand
turned the conversation upon our position and employments last year; he
called to remembrance poor Robert Scott, then in sound health, and the
fact of his having carried our "Guy Fawkes" round the ship on the
preceding day twelvemonth, and added mournfully, "Poor fellow! no one
knows whose turn it may be to go next." He finished his evening pipe,
and shut his cabin door shortly after nine o'clock. This morning, at
seven o'clock, his servant found him lying upon the deck, a corpse,
having been several hours dead. Apoplexy appears to have been the cause.
He was a steady, serious man, under forty years of age, and leaves a
widow and three or four children; what their circumstances are I am not
aware.
{THE FUNERAL.}
_10th._--This morning the remains of Mr. Brand, inclosed in a neat
coffin, were buried in a grave on shore. A suitable headboard and
inscription will be placed over it. From all that I have gathered, it
appears that his mind had been somewhat gloomy for the last few days,
dwelling much upon poor Scott's sudden death. Whether he really saw
three reindeer on Saturday, watched their movements, and fired his Minié
rifle at them when 700 yards distant, or whether it was the creation of
a disordered brain, none can tell. On his first return on board he said
he had seen deer _tracks_ only.
We are now without either engineer or engine-driver: we have only two
stokers, and they know nothing about the machinery. Our numbers are
reduced to twenty-four, including our interpreter and two Greenland
Esquimaux.
_15th._--We have enjoyed ten days of moderate winds and calms, but the
temperature has fallen as low as -31°. This causes frost-cracks in the
ice _across_ the harbor; they will freeze over, and others will form,
and gape, and freeze at intervals, so that by next spring we shall
probably be moved several inches, perhaps feet, off shore.
Mists have obscured the sun of late, and now it does not rise at all. We
are indifferent; its departure has become to us a matter of course. The
usual winter covering of snow has been spread upon deck rather more than
a foot thick. Its utility in preventing the escape of heat became at
once strikingly apparent. Nothing has been seen but a few ptarmigan and
one reindeer, which trotted off towards the ship. Our bullets missed
him, and the dogs unfortunately caught sight and chased him away. I do
not think any dogs could overtake a reindeer in this rough country; the
rocks would speedily lame them, and the snow, in many places, is quite
deep enough to fatigue them greatly, whereas it offers but slight
impediment to the deer, furnished as he is with long legs and spreading
hoofs.
{SCARCITY OF GAME.}
_29th._--Animals have become very scarce. A few ptarmigan and
willow-grouse have been seen, and three shot. Two days ago I saw two
reindeer. The eastern sea is frozen over, and our old acquaintance the
iceberg in Prince Regent's Inlet is still visible on a clear day. We
brew sugar-beer, and we set nets for seals, but catch none. The nets
have been made and set in favorable positions under the ice by the
Greenlanders, so we suppose the seals also have migrated elsewhere; if
so, the Esquimaux could not winter here. We have no regular school this
winter, but five of the men study navigation every evening under the
guidance of Young. Hobson and I are doing all we can to make the ship
dry, warm, and comfortable: our large snow porches over the hatchways
are a great improvement.
{DEC., 1858.}
_5th Dec._--Cold, windy weather, with chilling mists from the open water
in Bellot Strait. We can seldom leave the shelter of the ship for a walk
on shore, and, when we do, rarely see even a ptarmigan.
{SEVERE WEATHER.}
_12th._--Very cold weather: thermometer down to -41°, and the breeze
comes to us loaded with mist from the open water, causing the air to
feel colder than it otherwise would. Bellot Strait has become a
nuisance, not only from this cause, but from the strong winds--purely
local--which seldom cease to blow through it.
The seal nets have produced nothing; and as there are no seals, we no
longer wonder at not seeing bears. Three foxes have been trapped and a
hare seen. Our canine force numbers twenty-four serviceable dogs and six
puppies; but these, I fear, will not be strong enough for sledging by
March. The monotony of our lives is vastly increased by want of
occupation, and confinement, by severe gales, to the ship for five days
out of every seven. The general health is good, but there is a natural
craving for fresh meat and fresh vegetables--in great measure, perhaps,
because they cannot be obtained; but a well-filled letter-bag would be
more welcome than anything I know of.
{COLD UNUSUALLY TRYING.}
_26th._--Upon four days only during the last fourteen has the weather
permitted us to walk. I allude to the wind as the obstacle to our
exercise; for temperature, when the air is still, is no bar to any
reasonable amount of it. Three or four coveys of ptarmigan have been
seen, and of these I shot one brace. The cold increases: thermometer has
fallen to -47-1/2°, although blowing a moderate gale at the time, and
the atmosphere dense with mist.
Our Christmas has been spent with a degree of loyalty to the good old
English custom at once spirited and refreshing. All the good things
which could possibly be collected together appeared upon the snow-white
deal tables of the men, as the officers and myself walked (by
invitation) round the lower deck. Venison, beer, and a fresh stock of
clay pipes, appeared to be the most prized luxuries; but the variety and
abundance of the eatables, tastefully laid out, was such as might well
support the delusion which all seemed desirous of imposing upon
themselves--that they were in a land of plenty--in fact, _all but_ at
home! We contributed a large cheese and some preserves, and candles
superseded the ordinary smoky lamps. With so many comforts, and the
existence of so much genuine good feeling, their evening was a joyous
one, enlivened also by songs and music.
Whilst all was order and merriment within the ship, the scene without
was widely different. A fierce north-wester howled loudly through the
rigging, the snow-drift rustled swiftly past, no star appeared through
the oppressive gloom, and the thermometer varied between 76° and 80°
_below the freezing point_. At one time it was impossible to visit the
magnetic observatory, although only 210 yards distant, and with a rope
stretched along, breast high, upon poles the whole way. The officers
discharged this duty for the quarter-masters of the watches during the
day and night.
{JAN., 1859.}
{NEW YEAR'S DAY.}
_1st Jan., 1859._--This being _Saturday night_ as well as _New Year's
Day_, "Sweethearts and Wives" were remembered with even more than the
ordinary feeling. New year's eve was celebrated with all the joyfulness
which ardent hope can inspire: and we _have_ reasonable ground for
_strong hope_. At midnight the expiration of the old year and
commencement of the new one was announced to me by _the band_--flutes,
accordion, and gong--striking up at my door. Some songs were sung, and
the performance concluded with "God save the Queen;" the few who could
find space in our mess-room sang the chorus; but this by no means
satisfied all the others who were without and unable to show themselves
to the officers, so they echoed the chorus, and the effect was very
pleasing. Our new year's day has been commemorated with all the
substantials of Christmas fare, but without so much display,--less
tailoring in pastry, not quite so much clipping of dough into roses,
and anchors, and nondescript animals, &c., &c. The past week has been
cold and stormy; it now blows strong, and the temperature is -44°.
On the 29th a few fresh tracks of animals and a ptarmigan were seen:
yesterday I saw three ptarmigan. December proved to be an unusually cold
month, its mean temperature being -33°; and it was rendered more than
ordinarily dark and gloomy by continual mists from Bellot Strait. This
open water adds seriously to the drawbacks of a spot already
sufficiently cheerless, gameless, and "wind-loved."
{INTENSE COLD.}
_9th._--Another week of uniform temperature of -40°, and confinement to
the ship by strong winds; the atmosphere is loaded with enveloping mists
which impart a raw and surprisingly keen edge to the chilling blasts,
blasts that no human nose can endure without blanching, be its
proportions what they may. It is wonderful how the dogs stand it, and
without apparent inconvenience, unless their fur happen to be thin. They
lie upon the snow under the lee of the ship, with no other protection
from the weather.
To-day, the winds being light and temperature _up to_-30°, we enjoyed
walks on shore, although the mist continued so dense as to limit our
view to a couple of hundred yards.
{PETERSEN'S INFORMATION.}
I learn from Petersen that the natives of Smith's Sound are well
acquainted with the continuation of its shores considerably beyond the
farthest point reached by Kane's exploring parties, but unfortunately no
one thought of getting them to delineate their local knowledge upon
paper. They spoke much of a large island near the west coast called
"Umingmak" (musk ox) Island, where there was much open water, abounding
with walrus, and where some of their people formerly lived.[19]
Esquimaux exist upon the east coast of Greenland as far north as lat.
76°; how much farther north is not known. They are separated from the
South Greenlanders by hundreds of miles of ice-bound coasts and
impassable glaciers.
Many centuries ago a milder climate _may_ and probably _did_ exist, and
a corresponding modification of glacier and a sea less ice-encumbered
might have rendered the migration of these poor people from the south to
their present isolated abodes practicable; but to me it appears much
more easy to suppose that they migrated eastward from the northern
outlet of Smith's Sound.
_21st._--More pleasant weather since my last entry; and although last
night the temperature fell to -47°, yet it has generally been mild; once
it rose to -14°, but amply made amends by falling to -38° within twelve
hours. We have enjoyed much of the moon's presence for the last ten
days, but now she is waning and hastening away to the south. Daylight
increases in strength and duration, consequently we walk more, and see
more, and the winter's gloom gives place to activity and cheerfulness.
Several ptarmigan, three or four hares, a snowy owl, and a bear-track,
have at various times been seen. Young has shot four ptarmigan, and I
have shot a couple more and a hare, and the men have trapped two foxes.
On board the ship the preparations for travelling take precedence of all
other occupations.
{RETURN OF THE SUN, 1859.}
_26th._--Part of the sun's disc loomed above the horizon to-day,
somewhat swollen and disfigured by the misty atmosphere, but looking
benevolent withal. I happened to be diligently traversing the rocky
hill-sides in the hope of finding some solitary hare dozing in fancied
security, when the sun thus appeared in view, and halted to feast my
eyes upon the glorious sight, and scan the features of our returning
friend. Hope and promise mingled in his bright beams. Again I moved
upward, and with more elastic step; for now the sun of 1859 was shining
upon all nature around me.
{FEB., 1859.}
_2nd February._--A lovely, calm, bright day, and beautifully clear,
except over the water-space in Bellot Strait, where rests a densely
black mist, very strongly resembling the West Indian rain-squall as it
looms upon the distant horizon. The increasing sunlight is cheering,
but void of heat, and the mercury is often frozen. A few more ptarmigan
have been shot.
{EARLY SPRING SLEDGE-PARTIES.}
Our remaining serviceable dogs, twenty-two in number, have been divided
with great care into three teams of seven each; the odd dog is added to
my team, as my journey is expected to be the longest. The different
sledge-parties will now feed up their dogs without limit, so that the
utmost degree of work may be got out of them hereafter.
January has been slightly colder than December, mean temperature being
-33-1/2°, but there has been rather less wind.
_8th._--All will be ready for the departure of Young and myself upon our
respective journeys upon the morning of the 14th.
Mr. Petersen and Alexander Thompson accompany me, with two dog-sledges,
and fifteen dogs, dragging twenty-four days' provisions. My object is to
communicate with the Boothians in the vicinity of the magnetic pole.
Young takes his party of four men and his dog-sledge; he will carry
forward provisions for his spring exploration of the shores of Prince of
Wales' Land, between the extreme points reached by Lieutenants Osborn
and Brown in 1851.
On the 3d I walked for seven and a half hours, and saw two reindeer, but
could not approach within shot. Young examined the water-space in the
strait, and finds it washes both shores, but extends east and west only
about one mile. The Doctor has seen a seal and a dovekie sporting in it.
For the last four days strong winds and intense cold have prevented us
from rambling over the hills, besides which the minor preparations for
travelling have given us more occupation on board.
{ATTACK OF SCURVY.}
James Pitcher has got a slight touch of scurvy; his gums are inflamed;
and now it comes out that he dislikes preserved meats, and has not eaten
any since he has been in the ship! He has lived upon salt meat and
preserved vegetables, except for the very short periods in summer when
birds could be obtained. He is rather a "used-up" old fellow, too much
so for our severe sledge-work, therefore is one of the few who will
remain to take care of the ship. That he should have retained his health
for seventeen months, under the circumstances, speaks well for the
wholesomeness and quality of our provisions, and the ventilation and
cleanliness of the ship.
_10th._--Extremely cold, with dense mists from the open water. Yesterday
eight ptarmigan and a sooty fox were seen. We have consumed the last of
our venison; it supplied us for three days. We are drinking out a cask
of sugar-beer, which is a very mild but agreeable beverage; we make it
on board.
_Sunday night, 13th._--To-morrow morning, if fine, Young and I set off
upon our travels. He has advanced a portion of his sledge-load to the
west side of the water in Bellot Strait, having been obliged to carry it
overland for about a mile in order to get there. I have explored the
route to the long lake, and find we can reach it without crossing
elevated or uncovered land. I saw two reindeer, and Young saw about
twenty ptarmigan.
{UNUSUALLY SEVERE WEATHER.}
The mean temperature of February up to this date is -33·2°, being an
exact continuation of January. I confess to some anxiety upon this
point, as hitherto the winter has been unusually severe, and the
journeys to be performed will occupy more than twenty days. Besides, we
shall be earlier in motion than any of the previous travellers, unless
we are to make an exception in favor of Mr. Kennedy's trip of 30 miles
from Batty Bay to Fury Beach, between the 5th and 10th January, during
which time the lowest temperature registered was only -25°. Should
either Young or myself remain absent beyond the period for which we
carry provisions, Hobson is to send a party in search of us. A sooty fox
has been captured lately.
_15th._--A strong N.W. wind, with a temperature of -40°, confines us on
board. One cannot face these winds, therefore it is fortunate that we
did not start, the ship being much more comfortable than a snow-hut.
* * * * *
{MAR., 1859.}
{JOURNEY TO CAPE VICTORIA.}
_20th March._--Already I have been a week on board, and so difficult is
it to settle down to anything like sedentary occupation, after a period
of continued vigorous action, that even now I can scarcely sit still to
scribble a brief outline of my trip to Cape Victoria.
On the morning of the 17th February the weather moderated sufficiently
for us to set out; the temperature throughout the day varied between
-31° and -42-1/2°. Leaving Young's party to pass on through the strait,
I proceeded by way of the Long Lake, which I found to be 10-1/2
geographical miles in length, with an average width of half a mile.
We built our snow-hut upon the west coast, near Pemmican Rock, after a
march of 19 or 20 geographical miles. We always speak of _geographical_
miles with reference to our marches; six geographical are equal to seven
English miles.
On the following day the old N.W. wind sprang up with renewed vigor, and
the thermometer fell to -48°; the cold was therefore intense.
On the third day our dogs went lame in consequence of sore feet; the
intense cold seems to be the principal, if not the only cause, having
hardened the surface-snow beyond what their feet can endure. I was
obliged to throw off a part of the provisions; still we could not make
more than 12 or 18 miles daily. We of course walked, so that the dogs
had only the remaining provisions and clothing to drag, yet several of
them repeatedly fell down in fits.
{TRAVELLING ROUTINE.}
For several days this severe weather continued, the mercury of my
artificial horizon remaining frozen (its freezing-point is -39°); and
our rum, at first thick like treacle, required thawing latterly, when
the more fluid and stronger part had been used. We travelled each day
until dusk, and then were occupied for a couple of hours in building our
snow-hut. The four walls were run up until 5-1/2 feet high, inclining
inwards as much as possible; over these our tent was laid to form a
roof; we could not afford the time necessary to construct a dome of
snow.
Our equipment consisted of a very small brown-holland tent, macintosh
floor-cloth, and felt robes; besides this, each man had a bag of double
blanketing, and a pair of fur boots, to sleep in. We wore mocassins over
the pieces of blanket in which our feet were wrapped up, and, with the
exception of a change of this foot-gear, carried no spare clothes. The
daily routine was as follows:--I led the way; Petersen and Thompson
followed, conducting their sledges; and in this manner we trudged on for
eight or ten hours without halting, except when necessary to disentangle
the dog-harness. When we halted for the night, Thompson and I usually
sawed out the blocks of compact snow and carried them to Petersen, who
acted as the master-mason in building the snow-hut: the hour and a half
or two hours usually employed in erecting the edifice was the most
disagreeable of the day's labor, for, in addition to being already well
tired and desiring repose, we became thoroughly chilled whilst standing
about. When the hut was finished, the dogs were fed, and here the great
difficulty was to insure the weaker ones their full share in the
scramble for supper; then commenced the operation of unpacking the
sledge, and carrying into our hut everything necessary for ourselves,
such as provision and sleeping gear, as well as all boots, fur mittens,
and even the sledge dog-harness, to prevent the dogs from eating them
during our sleeping hours. The door was now blocked up with snow, the
cooking-lamp lighted, foot-gear changed, diary written up, watches
wound, sleeping bags wriggled into, pipes lighted, and the merits of the
various dogs discussed, until supper was ready; the supper swallowed,
the upper robe or coverlet was pulled over, and then to sleep.
Next morning came breakfast, a struggle to get into frozen mocassins,
after which the sledges were packed, and another day's march commenced.
In these little huts we usually slept warm enough, although latterly,
when our blankets and clothes became loaded with ice, we felt the cold
severely. When our low doorway was carefully blocked up with snow, and
the cooking-lamp alight the temperature quickly rose so that the walls
became glazed, and our bedding thawed; but the cooking over, or the
doorway partially opened, it as quickly fell again, so that it was
impossible to sleep, or even to hold one's pannikin of tea, without
putting our mitts on, so intense was the cold!
On the 21st I visited our main depôt laid out last October; it was safe,
but unfortunately had been carried far into Wrottesley Inlet, and only
40 miles south of Bellot Strait.
On the 22d an easterly gale prevented our marching, but we had the good
fortune to shoot a bear, so consoled ourselves with fresh steaks, and
the dogs with an ample feed of _unfrozen_ flesh--a treat they had not
enjoyed for many months.
{WESTERN SHORES OF BOOTHIA.}
We coasted along a granitic land, deeply indented and fringed with
islands, and found it to be the general characteristic of the Boothian
shore from Bellot Strait, until we had accomplished half the distance to
the magnetic pole; limestone then appeared, and the remainder of our
journey was performed along a low, straight shore, which afforded us
much greater facility for sledging.
Throughout the whole distance we found a mixture of heavy old ice and
light ice of last autumn, in many places squeezed up into pack; but as
we advanced southward aged floes were less frequently seen.
On the first of March we halted to encamp at about the position of the
magnetic pole--for no cairn remains to mark the spot. I had almost
concluded that my journey would prove to be a work of labor in vain,
because hitherto no traces of Esquimaux had been met with, and, in
consequence of the reduced state of our provisions and the wretched
condition of the poor dogs--six out of the fifteen being quite
useless--I could only advance one more march.
{WAGES OF NATIVE BUILDERS.}
But we had done nothing more than look _ahead_; when we halted, and
turned round, great indeed was my surprise and joy to see four men
walking after us. Petersen and I immediately buckled on our revolvers
and advanced to meet them. The natives halted, made fast their dogs,
laid down their spears, and received us without any evidence of
surprise. They told us they had been out upon a seal hunt on the ice,
and were returning home: we proposed to join them, and all were soon in
motion again; but another hour brought sunset, and we learned that their
snow village of eight huts was still a long way off, so we hired them,
at the rate of a needle for each Esquimaux, to build us a hut, which
they completed in an hour; it was 8 feet in diameter, 5-1/2 feet high,
and in it we all passed the night. Perhaps the records of architecture
do not furnish another instance of a dwelling-house so cheaply
constructed!
{INFORMATION FROM ESQUIMAUX.}
We gave them to understand that we were anxious to barter with them, and
very cautiously approached the real object of our visit. A naval button
upon one of their dresses afforded the opportunity; it came, they said,
from some white people who were starved upon an island where there are
salmon (that is, in a river); and that the iron of which their knives
were made came from the same place. One of these men said he had been to
the island to obtain wood and iron, but none of them had seen the white
men. Another man had been to "Ei-wil-lik" (Repulse Bay), and counted on
his fingers seven individuals of Rae's party whom he remembered having
seen.
{BARTER WITH NATIVES.}
These Esquimaux had nothing to eat, and no other clothing than their
ordinary double dresses of fur; they would not eat our biscuit or salt
pork, but took a small quantity of bear's blubber and some water. They
slept in a sitting posture, with their heads leaning forward on their
breasts. Next morning we travelled about 10 miles further, by which time
we were close to Cape Victoria; beyond this I would not go, much as they
wished to lead us on; we therefore landed, and they built us a
commodious snow-hut in half an hour; this done, we displayed to them our
articles for barter--knives, files, needles, scissors, beads,
etc.--expressed our desire to trade with them, and promised to purchase
everything which belonged to the starved white men, if they would come
to us on the morrow. Notwithstanding that the weather was now stormy and
bitterly cold, two of the natives stripped off their outer coats of
reindeer skin and bartered them for a knife each.
Despite the gale which howled outside, we spent a comfortable night in
our roomy hut.
Next morning the entire village population arrived, amounting to about
forty-five souls, from aged people to infants in arms, and bartering
commenced very briskly. First of all we purchased all the relics of the
lost expedition, consisting of six silver spoons and forks, a silver
medal, the property of Mr. A. M'Donald, assistant surgeon, part of a
gold chain, several buttons, and knives made of the iron and wood of the
wreck, also bows and arrows constructed of materials obtained from the
same source. Having secured these, we purchased a few frozen salmon,
some seals' blubber and venison, but could not prevail upon them to part
with more than one of their fine dogs. One of their sledges was made of
two stout pieces of wood, which might have been a boat's keel.
{INTELLIGENCE OF FRANKLIN'S SHIPS.}
All the old people recollected the visit of the 'Victory.' An old man
told me his name was "Ooblooria:" I recollected that Sir James Ross had
employed a man of that name as a guide, and reminded him of it; he was,
in fact, the same individual, and he inquired after Sir James by his
Esquimaux name of "Agglugga."
I inquired after the man who was furnished with a wooden leg by the
carpenter of the 'Victory:' no direct answer was given, but his daughter
was pointed out to me. Petersen explained to me that they do not like
alluding in any way to the dead, and that, as my question was not
answered, it was certain the man was no longer amongst the living.
None of these people had seen the whites; one man said he had seen their
bones upon the island where they died, but some were buried. Petersen
also understood him to say that the boat was crushed by the ice. Almost
all of them had part of the plunder; they say they will be here when we
return, and will trade more with us; also that we shall find natives
upon Montreal Island at the time of our arriving there.
Next morning, 4th March, several natives came to us again. I bought a
spear 6-1/2 feet long from a man who told Petersen distinctly that a
ship having three masts had been crushed by the ice out in the sea to
the west of King William's Island, but that all the people landed
safely; he was not one of those who were eye-witnesses of it; the ship
sunk, so nothing was obtained by the natives from her; all that they
have got, he said, came from the island in the river. The spear staff
appears to have been part of the gunwale of a light boat. One old man,
"Oo-na-lee," made a rough sketch of the coast-line with his spear upon
the snow, and said it was eight journeys to where the ship sank,
pointing in the direction of Cape Felix. I can make nothing out of his
rude chart.
{RAE'S STATEMENTS CONFIRMED.}
The information we obtained bears out the principal statements of Dr.
Rae, and also accounts for the disappearance of one of the ships; but it
gives no clue to the whereabouts of the other, nor the direction whence
the ships come. One thing is tolerably certain--the crews did not at any
time land upon the Boothian shore.
These Esquimaux were all well clothed in reindeer dresses, and looked
clean; they appeared to have abundance of provisions, but scarcely a
scrap of wood was seen amongst them which had not come from the lost
expedition. Their sledges, with the exception of the one already spoken
of, were wretched little affairs, consisting of two frozen rolls of
seal-skins coated with ice, and attached to each other by bones, which
served as the cross-bars. The men were stout, hearty fellows, and the
women arrant thieves, but all were good-humored and friendly. The women
were decidedly plain; in fact, this term would have been flattering to
most of them; yet there was a degree of vivacity and gentleness in the
manners of some that soon reconciled us to these Arctic specimens of the
fair sex. They had fine eyes and teeth, as well as very small hands, and
the young girls had a fresh rosy hue not often seen in combination with
olive complexions.
Esquimaux mothers carry their infants on their backs within their large
fur dresses, and where the babes can only be got at by pulling them out
over the shoulder. Whilst intent upon my bargaining for silver spoons
and forks belonging to Franklin's expedition, at the rate of a few
needles or a knife for each relic, one pertinacious old dame, after
having obtained all she was likely to get from me for herself, pulled
out her infant by the arm, and quietly held the poor little creature
(for it was perfectly naked) before me in the breeze, the temperature at
the time being 60° below freezing point! Petersen informed me that she
was begging for a needle for her child. I need not say I gave it one as
expeditiously as possible; yet sufficient time elapsed before the infant
was again put out of sight to alarm me considerably for its safety in
such a temperature. The natives, however, seemed to think nothing of
what looked to me like cruel exposure of a naked baby.
{RETURN TO THE 'FOX.'}
We now returned to the ship with all the speed we could command; but
stormy weather occasioned two days' delay, so that we did not arrive on
board until the 14th March. Though considerably reduced in flesh, I and
my companions were in excellent health, and blessed with insatiable
appetites. On washing our faces, which had become perfectly black from
the soot of our blubber lamp, sundry scars, relics of frost-bites,
appeared; and the tips of our fingers, from constant frost-bites, had
become as callous as if seared with hot iron.
In this journey of twenty-five days we travelled 360 geographical miles
(420 English), and completed the discovery of the coast-line of
continental America, thereby adding about 120 miles to our charts. The
mean temperature throughout the journey was 30° below zero of
Fahrenheit, or 62° below the freezing point of water.
On reaching the ship, I at once assembled my small crew, and told them
of the information we had obtained, pointing out that there still
remained one of the ships unaccounted for, and therefore it was
necessary to carry out all our projected lines of search.
{ARCTIC FARE.}
During this journey I acquired the Arctic accomplishment of eating
frozen blubber, in delicate little slices, and vastly preferred it to
frozen pork. At the present moment I do not think I could even taste it,
but the same privation and hunger which induced me to eat of such food
would doubtless enable me again to partake of it _very kindly_.
I shot a couple of foxes which came playing about the dogs; conscious of
their superior speed, they were very impudent, snapping at the dogs'
tails, and passing almost under their noses. I shot these foxes,
intending to eat them; but the dogs anticipated me with respect to one;
the other we feasted off at our mess-table, and thought it by no means
bad; it was insipid, but decidedly better to our tastes than preserved
meat.
{CAPTAIN YOUNG'S JOURNEY.}
Captain Allen Young and his party had returned on board on the 3rd of
March, having placed their depôt upon the shore of Prince of Wales'
Land, about 70 miles S.W. of the ship. Young found the ice in Bellot
Strait so rough as to be impassable, and was obliged to adopt the lake
route. Prince of Wales' Land was found to be composed of limestone; the
shore was low, and fringed for a distance of ten miles to seaward with
an ancient land-floe. The remaining width of the strait between this
land (North Somerset) and Prince of Wales' Land was about 15 miles, and
this space was composed of ice formed since September last; this was the
water we looked at so anxiously last autumn from Cape Bird and Pemmican
Rock. His party lived in their tent, protected from the wind by snow
walls, and, like ourselves, escaped with a few trivial frost-bites. So
far all was very satisfactory, the general health good, and the
eagerness of my crew to commence travelling quite charming.
{SUGAR MISSING.}
Young proposed carrying out another depôt to the north-west, in order to
explore well up Peel Strait, and would have started on the 17th, but
the weather was too severe. The day was spent in a fruitless search for
three casks of sugar--a serious and unaccountable deficiency--but, as it
was important to replace them with as little delay as possible, Young
set off on the 18th, although it blew a N.W. gale at the time, with two
men and eighteen dogs, for Fury Beach; failing to find the requisite
quantity there, he will go on to Port Leopold.
FOOTNOTES:
[19] Petersen conversed with two men who had themselves been up to
Umingmak Island.