Leave Pond's Bay--A gale in Lancaster Sound--The Beechey Island
Depôt--An Arctic monument--Reflections at Beechey Island--Proceed up
Barrow's Strait--Peel Sound--Port Leopold--Prince Regent's
Inlet--Bellot Strait--Flood-tide from the west--Unsuccessful
efforts--Fox's Hole--No water to the west--Precautionary
measures--Fourth attempt to pass through.
{LEAVE POND'S BAY.}
_6th Aug._--Continued calms have delayed us. This evening we steamed
from Pond's Bay northward, although our coals have been sadly reduced by
the almost constant necessity for steam-power since leaving the Waigat.
The three steam-whalers have gone southward; none others have arrived.
They appear to us to be leaving the whales behind them; we saw many
whilst up the strait, and at the edge of the remaining ice. The natives
said they would remain as long as the ice remained, but when it all
broke up they would return into Baffin's Bay and go southward; and that
these animals arrive in early spring, and do not pass through the strait
into any other sea beyond.
{GALE IN LANCASTER SOUND.}
_Monday evening, 9th._--On the night of the 6th a pleasant, fair breeze
sprang up, and enabled us to dispense with the engine. An immense bear
was shot; he measured 8 feet 7 inches in length, and is destined for
the museum of the Royal Dublin Society. On the 7th the wind gradually
freshened and frustrated my intention of examining the wreck spoken of
near Cape Hay; at night it increased to a very heavy gale. Although past
Navy Board Inlet, very little ice had yet been met with. The weather,
and fear of ice to leeward, obliged us to heave the vessel to, under
main trysail and fore staysail. The squalls were extremely violent and
seas unusually high.
All Sunday, the 8th, the gale continued, although not with such extreme
force; the deep rolling of the ship, and moaning of the half-drowned
dogs amidst the pelting sleet and rain, was anything but agreeable.
Notwithstanding that I had been up all the previous night, I felt too
anxious to sleep; the wind blew directly up Barrow Strait, drifting us
about two miles an hour. Occasionally she drifted to leeward of masses
of ice, reminding us that if any of the dense pack which covered this
sea only three weeks ago remained to leeward of us, we must be rapidly
setting down upon its weather edge. The only expedient in such a case is
to endeavor to run into it--once well within its outer margin a ship is
comparatively safe--the danger lies in the attempt to penetrate; to
escape out of the pack afterwards is also a doubtful matter.
In the evening we were glad to see the land, and find ourselves off the
north shore near Cape Bullen, for the violent motion of the ship and
very weak horizontal magnetic force had rendered our compasses useless.
This morning, the 9th, the gale broke, and the sea began to subside
rapidly; by noon it was almost calm, but a thick gloom prevailed,
ominous, it might be, of more mischief. All along the land there is ice,
but, broken up into harmless atoms. We have carried away a main gaff and
a jibstay, but have come remarkably well through such a gale with such
trifling damage.
{BEECHEY ISLAND DEPÔT.}
_11th._--Before noon to-day we anchored inside Cape Riley, and
immediately commenced preparations for embarking coals. I visited
Beechey Island house, and found the door open; it must have been blown
in by an easterly gale long ago, for much ice had accumulated
immediately inside it. Most of the biscuit in bags was damaged, but
every thing else was in perfect order. Upon the north and west sides of
the house, where a wall had been constructed, there was a vast
accumulation of ice, in which the lower tier of casks between the two
were embedded, and its surface thawed into pools. Neither casks nor
walls should have been allowed to stand near the house. The southern and
eastern sides were clear and perfectly dry. The 'Mary' decked boat, and
two 30-feet lifeboats, were in excellent order, and their paint appeared
fresh, but oars and bare wood were bleached white.
The gutta-percha boat was useless when left here, and remains in the
same state. Two small sledge travelling boats were damaged; one of them
had been blown over and over along the beach until finally arrested by
the other. The bears and foxes do not appear to have touched any thing.
I have taken on board all letters left here for Franklin's or
Collinson's expeditions and also a 20-feet sledge-boat for our own
travelling purposes.
Last night we steamed very close round Cape Hurd in a dense fog, and
crept along the land as our only guide: we were thus led into Rigby Bay,
and discovered a shoal off its entrance by grounding upon it. After a
quarter of an hour we floated off unhurt.
In lowering a boat to pursue a bear, Robert Hampton fell overboard;
fortunately he could swim, and was very soon picked up, but the intense
cold of the water had almost paralyzed his limbs. The bear was shot and
taken on board.
_Sunday, 15th, 9 P.M._--Our coaling was completed yesterday, and the
ship brought over and anchored off the house in Erebus and Terror Bay. A
small proportion of provisions and winter clothing has been embarked to
complete our deficiencies; the ice has been scraped out of the house and
its roof thoroughly repaired, a record deposited, and door securely
closed.
{AN ARCTIC MONUMENT.}
I found lying at Godhavn a marble tablet which had been sent out by
Lady Franklin, in the American expedition of 1855 under Captain
Hartstein, for the purpose of being erected at Beechey Island.
Circumstances prevented the Americans executing this kindly service, and
it fell to my lot to convey it to the site originally intended. The
tablet was constructed in New York, under the direction of Mr. Grinnell,
at the request of Lady Franklin, in order that the only opportunity
which then offered of sending it to the Arctic regions might not be
lost. I placed the monument upon the raised flagged square in the centre
of which stands the cenotaph recording the names of those who perished
in the Government expedition under Sir Edward Belcher. Here also is
placed a small tablet to the memory of Lieutenant Bellot. I could not
have selected for Lady Franklin's memorial a more appropriate or
conspicuous site. The inscription runs as follows:--
{THE INSCRIPTION.}
TO THE MEMORY OF
FRANKLIN,
CROZIER, FITZJAMES,
AND ALL THEIR
GALLANT BROTHER OFFICERS AND FAITHFUL
COMPANIONS WHO HAVE SUFFERED AND PERISHED
IN THE CAUSE OF SCIENCE AND
THE SERVICE OF THEIR COUNTRY.
THIS TABLET
IS ERECTED NEAR THE SPOT WHERE
THEY PASSED THEIR FIRST ARCTIC
WINTER, AND WHENCE THEY ISSUED
FORTH TO CONQUER DIFFICULTIES OR
TO DIE.
IT COMMEMORATES THE GRIEF OF THEIR
ADMIRING COUNTRYMEN AND FRIENDS,
AND THE ANGUISH, SUBDUED BY FAITH,
OF HER WHO HAS LOST, IN THE HEROIC
LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION, THE MOST
DEVOTED AND AFFECTIONATE OF
HUSBANDS.
"AND SO HE BRINGETH THEM UNTO THE
HAVEN WHERE THEY WOULD BE."
1855.
* * * * *
This stone has been entrusted to be affixed in its place by the Officers
and Crew on the American Expedition, commanded by Lt. H. J. Hartstein,
in search of Dr. Kane and his Companions.
This Tablet having been left at Disco by the
American Expedition, which was unable to
reach Beechey Island, in 1855, was put on
board the Discovery Yacht Fox, and is now
set up here by Captain M'Clintock, R.N.,
commanding the final expedition of search
for ascertaining the fate of Sir John Franklin
and his companions, 1858.
We are now ready to proceed upon our voyage from Beechey Island, and
there is no ice in sight; but having worked almost unceasingly since our
arrival up to the present hour, the men require a night's rest. Nearly
forty tons of fuel have been embarked.
{REFLECTIONS AT BEECHEY ISLAND.}
The total absence of ice in Barrow Strait is astonishing. No less so are
the changes and chances of this singular navigation. Twelve days later
than this in 1850, when I belonged to Her Majesty's ship 'Assistance,'
with considerable difficulty we came within sight of Beechey Island; a
cairn on its summit attracted notice; Captain Ommanney managed to land,
and discovered the _first traces_ of the missing expedition. Next day
the United States schooner 'Rescue' arrived; the day after, Captain
Penny joined us, and subsequently Captain Austin, Sir John Ross, and
Captain Forsyth,--in all, ten vessels were assembled here. _This day_
six years, when in command of the 'Intrepid,' we sailed from here for
Melville Island in company with the 'Resolute.' Again I was here at this
time in 1854,--still frozen up,--in the 'North Star,' and doubts were
entertained of the possibility of _escape_.
To come down to a later period, it was this day fortnight only that I
set out for the native village in Pond's Inlet, under the guidance of an
old woman; the trip was interesting, but we failed to obtain the
slightest clue to the "whereabouts" of the missing ships; moreover, our
own little vessel had a most providential escape from being crushed
against the cliffs; and this day week was spent in contending with a
furious gale, during which the ship had nearly been driven to leeward
and dashed to pieces by the sea-beaten pack. Yet these are only
preliminaries,--we are only _now_ about to commence the interesting part
of our voyage. It is to be hoped the poor 'Fox' has many more lives to
spare.
{CAPE HOTHAM.}
_Monday night, 16th Aug._--Sailed from Beechey Island this morning, and
in the evening landed at Cape Hotham. A small depôt of provisions and
three boats were left there by former expeditions. Of the depôt all has
been destroyed with the exception of two casks landed in 1850. The boats
were sound, but several of their oars, which had been secured upright,
were found broken down by bears--those inquisitive animals having a
decided antipathy to anything stuck up--stuck up things in general
being, in this country, unnatural. Fragments of the depôt and the broken
oars were tossed about in every direction. Numerous records were found;
to the most recent a few lines were added, stating that we had removed
the two whale-boats--one to be left at Port Leopold, the other to
replace our own crushed by the ice.
{PROCEED DOWN PEEL STRAIT.}
_17th._--Last night battling against a strong foul wind with _sea_, in
rain and fog. To-day much loose ice is seen southward of Griffith's
Island. The weather improved this afternoon, and we shot gallantly past
Limestone Island, and are now steering down Peel Strait; all of us in a
wild state of excitement--a mingling of anxious hopes and fears!
_18th._--For 25 miles last evening we ran unobstructedly down Peel
Strait, but then came in sight of unbroken ice extending across it from
shore to shore! It was much decayed, and of one year's growth only; yet
as the strait continues to contract for 60 miles further, and it
appeared to me to afford so little hope of becoming navigable in the
short remainder of the season, I immediately turned about for Bellot
Strait, as affording a better prospect of a passage into the western sea
discovered by Sir James Ross from Four River Point in 1849. Our
disappointment at the interruption of our progress was as sudden as it
was severe. We did not linger in hope of a change, but steered out again
into the broad waters of Barrow Strait. However, should Bellot Strait
prove hopeless, I intend to return hither to make one more effort before
the close of the season.
We are now approaching Port Leopold, where it is necessary to stop for a
few hours to examine the state of the steam launch, provisions and
stores, left there in 1849, as adverse circumstances may oblige me to
fall back upon it as a point of support.
{PORT LEOPOLD.}
_19th._--At anchor in Port Leopold; it is perfectly clear of ice; we
arrived here in the night. How astonishingly bare the land looks; it is
more barren than Beechey Island, whilst the rock contains far fewer
fossils! On this day nine years ago the harbor and sea continued covered
with ice, and the ships ('Enterprise' and 'Investigator') were unable to
escape. At some period since then the ice has been pressed in upon the
low shingle point; it has forced the launch up before it, and left her
broadside on to the beach, with both bows stove in, and in want of
considerable repairs, but the means are all at hand for executing them.
We tried to haul her further up, but she was firmly imbedded and frozen
into the ground. Many things appear to have been covered with the loose
shingle, bags of coal and coke just appearing through it scarcely above
high-water mark. Amongst the missing articles is the steam-engine.
Although the flag-staff upon the summit of North East Cape is still
standing, the one erected upon this point and almost the whole of the
framing of the house lies prostrate. The provisions appeared to be
sound, but were not generally examined. The whale-boat we removed from
Cape Hotham was landed here, and a record of our proceedings added to
the many which have accumulated here during the last ten years. Some
coke and a few things useful to us and merely decaying here were taken
on board, and by evening we were again speeding onward with augmented
resources, and the confidence inspired by a secure depôt in our rear;
buoyed up moreover by the joyful anticipation of soon reaching the goal
of our long-deferred hopes.
{OFF FURY POINT.}
_20th._--Noon. Exactly off Fury Point. There is one large iceberg far
off in the S.E.; no other ice in sight! I would have landed at Fury
Beach to examine the remaining supplies there, but a snow shower
prevented our distinguishing anything, and a strong tide carried us past
before we were aware of it.
We _feel_ that the crisis of our voyage is near at hand. Does Bellot
Strait really exist? if so, is it free from ice?
A depôt of provisions is being got ready to be landed, should it be
practicable for us to push through and proceed to the southward.
{DEPÔT BAY.}
_21st._--On approaching Brentford Bay last evening packed ice was seen
streaming out of it, also much ice in the S.E. The northern point of
entrance was landed upon by Sir John Ross in 1829, and named Possession
Point; we rounded it closely, and could distinguish a few stones piled
up upon a large rock near its highest part--this is his cairn. As we
passed westward between the point and Browne's Island, through a channel
a mile in width, a close pack was discovered a few miles ahead; and it
being past ten o'clock, and almost dark, the ship was anchored in a
convenient bay three or four miles within Possession Point. Here our
depôt is to be landed, therefore we shall name this for the present
_Depôt Bay_; a very narrow isthmus between its head and Hazard Inlet
unites the low limestone peninsula, of which Possession Point is the
extreme, to the mainland.
To-day an unsparing use of steam and canvas forced the ship eight miles
further west; we were then about half-way through Bellot Strait! Its
western capes are lofty bluffs, such as may be distinguished fifty miles
distant in clear weather; between them there was a clear broad channel,
but five or six miles of close heavy pack intervened--the sole obstacle
to our progress. Of course this pack will speedily disperse;--it is no
wonder that we should feel elated at such a glorious prospect, and
content to bide our time in the security of Depôt Bay. A feeling of
tranquillity--of earnest, hearty satisfaction--has come over us. There
is no appearance amongst us of anything boastful; we have all
experienced too keenly the vicissitudes of Arctic voyaging to admit of
such a feeling.
At the turn of tide we perceived that we were being carried, together
with the pack, back to the eastward; every moment our velocity was
increased, and presently we were dismayed at seeing grounded ice near
us, but were very quickly swept past it at the rate of nearly six miles
an hour, though within 200 yards of the rocks, and of instant
destruction! As soon as we possibly could we got clear of the packed
ice, and left it to be wildly hurled about by various whirlpools and
rushes of the tide, until finally carried out into Brentford Bay. The
ice-masses were large, and dashed violently against each other, and the
rocks lay at some distance off the southern shore; we had a fortunate
escape from such dangerous company. After anchoring again in Depôt Bay,
a large stock of provisions and a record of our proceedings were landed,
as there seems every probability of advancing into the western sea in a
very few days.
{BELLOT STRAIT.}
The appearance of Bellot Strait is precisely that of a Greenland fiord;
it is about 20 miles long and scarcely a mile wide in the narrowest
part, and there, within a quarter of a mile of the north shore the depth
was ascertained to be 400 feet. Its granitic shores are bold and lofty,
with a very respectable sprinkling of vegetation for lat. 72°. Some of
the hill-ranges rise to about 1500 or 1600 feet above the sea.
The low land eastward of Depôt Bay is composed of limestone, destitute
alike of fossils and vegetation. The granite commences upon the west
shore of Depôt Bay, and is at once bold and rugged. Many seals have been
seen; a young bear was shot, and Walker took a photograph of him as he
lay upon our deck, the dogs creeping near to lick up the blood.
{FLOOD TIDE FROM THE WEST.}
The great rapidity of the tides in Bellot Strait fully accounts for the
spaces of open water seen by Mr. Kennedy[15] when he travelled through,
early in April. The strait runs very nearly east and west, but its
eastern entrance is well masked by Long Island; when half-way through
both seas are visible. As in Greenland, the night tides are much higher
than the day tides; last night it was high water at about half-past
eleven; as nearly as we can estimate, the tide runs through to the west,
from two hours before high water until four hours after it; that is, the
flood-tide comes from the west! Such is also the case in Hecla and Fury
Strait; in both places the tide from the west is much the strongest. I
am not sufficiently informed to discuss this subject, but infer the
existence of a channel between Victoria and Prince of Wales' Land. The
rise and fall is much less upon the western side of the Isthmus of
Boothia than upon the east, and it likewise decreases, we know, in
Barrow Strait, as we advance westward.
_23rd._--Yesterday Bellot Strait was again examined, but the five miles
of close pack occupied precisely the same position as if heaped together
by contending tides; considerable augmentations were moreover seen
drifting in from the western sea. Finding nothing could be effected in
Bellot Strait, we sought in vain for the more southern channel which
should exist to form Levesque Island: we did, however, find a beautiful
harbor, and are now securely anchored in its north-west arm; I have
named it after the gentleman whose former island I have thus reluctantly
converted into the northern extreme of the Boothian Peninsula, and
consequently of the American continent. The south-western angle of
Brentford Bay is still covered with unbroken ice.
This evening we all landed to explore our new ground. Young and Petersen
shot some brent geese; Walker saw two deer, but he was botanizing, and
had no gun; others were seen by some of the men, and followed, but
without success.
{RAMBLE INLAND.}
I enjoyed a delightfully refreshing ramble, a mile or two inland,
through a gently ascending valley, then two miles along the narrow
margin of a pretty little lake between mountains, beyond which lay a
much larger one, four or five miles in diameter; this farther lake was
only partially divested of its winter ice. Here the scenery was not only
grand, but beautiful; there was enough of vegetation to tint the craggy
hill-sides and to make the sheltered hollows absolutely green;
deer-tracks and the foot-prints of wildfowl were everywhere numerous
along the water-side. I saw two decayed skulls of musk oxen, and circles
of stones by the little lake, doubtless at some remote period the summer
residence of wandering Esquimaux; hence I infer that fish abound in the
lake, and that this valley is a favorite deer-pass.
But the contemplation of these objects, although agreeable, was not the
object of my solitary ramble; I came on shore to cogitate undisturbed in
a leisurely and philosophic manner. We hoped very soon to enter an
unknown sea; discoveries were to be made, contingencies provided for,
and plans prepared to meet them.
Yesterday Petersen shot an immense bearded seal; it sank, but floated up
an hour afterwards. This animal measured 8 feet long, and weighed about
500 lbs. We prefer its flesh to that of the small seals, and its blubber
will afford a valuable addition to our stock of lamp oil for the coming
winter.
_25th._--In Depôt Bay. We remained but twenty-four hours in Levesque
Harbor; a change of wind led us to hope for a removal of the ice in
Bellot Strait, therefore I determined to make another attempt.
{FOX'S HOLE.}
When off the table-land, where the depth is not more than from 6 to 10
fathoms, and the tides run strongest, the ship hardly moved over the
ground, although going 6-1/2 knots through the water! Thus delayed,
darkness overtook us, and we anchored at midnight in a small indentation
of the north shore, christened by the men _Fox's Hole_, rather more than
half-way through.
For several hours we had been coquetting with huge rampant ice-masses
that wildly surged about in the tideway, or we dashed through boiling
eddies, and sometimes almost grazed the tall cliffs; we were therefore
naturally glad of a couple or three hours' rest, even in such a very
unsafe position. At early dawn we again proceeded west, but for three
miles only; the pack again stopped us, and we could perceive that the
western sea was covered with ice: the east wind, which could alone
remove it, now gave place to a hard-hearted westerly one.
All the strait to the eastward of us, and the eastern sea, as far as
could be seen from the hill-tops, is perfectly free from ice, whereas in
the direction we wish to proceed there is nothing but packed-ice, or
water which cannot be reached. Bitterly disappointed we are, of course;
yet there is reasonable ground for hope; grim winter will not ratify the
obstinate proceedings of the western ice for nearly four weeks.
{PERILOUS AMUSEMENT.}
Last evening's _amusement_ was most exciting, nor was it without its
peculiar perils. With cunning and activity worthy of her name, our
little craft warily avoided a tilting-match with the stout blue masses
which whirled about, as if with wilful impetuosity, through the narrow
channel; some of them were so large as to ground even in 6 or 7 fathoms
water. Many were drawn into the eddies, and, acquiring considerable
velocity in a contrary direction, suddenly broke bounds, charging out
into the stream and entering into mighty conflict with their fellows.
After such a frolic the masses would revolve peaceably or unite with the
pack, and await quietly their certain dissolution; may the day of that
wished-for dissolution be near at hand! Nothing but strong hope of
success induced me to encounter such dangerous opposition. I not only
hoped, but almost felt, that we deserved to succeed.
{PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES.}
Two plans were now occupying my thoughts, both of them resulting from
the conviction that we should probably be compelled to winter to the
eastward of Bellot Strait: the most important of these plans is that of
finding some series of valleys, chain of lakes, or continuous low land,
practicable as an overland sledge-route to the western coast, along
which we may transport depôts of provisions this autumn; for it is
certain that the strong tides will prevent Bellot Strait being frozen
over till winter is far advanced, and its surface will afford us no
means of passing westward with our sledges.
The other plan, and that which we are now about to execute, is to land a
small depôt of provisions 60 or 70 miles to the southward, and down
Prince Regent's Inlet, in order to facilitate communication with the
Esquimaux either this autumn or in early spring.
This precautionary step became so necessary in the event of the west
coast presenting unusual difficulties, that I determined to carry it at
once into execution. Quitting the "Fox's Hole," and resting for one
night in Depôt Bay, we sailed thence on the 26th; a fine breeze carried
us rapidly southward along the coast of Regent Inlet; there was but
little obstruction; occasionally it was necessary to pass through a
stream of loose ice; but we saw little of any kind, compared to the
experiences of Sir John Ross in 1829.
{STILLWELL BAY.}
About dusk (nine o'clock) much loose ice to the southward prevented our
making any attempt at further progress; we therefore anchored off the
coast--in Stillwell Bay, I think--about 45 miles from the Depôt Bay.
Here the depôt, consisting of 120 rations, was landed. I observe that it
has only been on penetrating into Brentford Bay that we have found the
primary rocks washed by the sea; the coast-line both north and south, as
far as, and beyond our present position, is a low shore of pale
limestone, destitute of fossils; we can, however, see granitic
hill-ranges far in the interior.
On the 27th we commenced beating back to the northward, tacking between
the land and the ice which lay about 15 miles off shore. Towards night
the wind greatly increased, and the ship, under reefed sail plunged
violently into the short, swift, high seas; we also felt quite as uneasy
and restless as the ship, in our great anxiety to get back and ascertain
what changes were likely to be effected by the gale.
_28th._--To-night the weather is more pleasant; the keen and contrary
wind has given place to a gentle, fair breeze, the swell has almost
subsided, no ice has been seen to-day, and the night is dark and
unusually mild. I can hardly fancy that the sea which gently rocks us is
not the ocean, and the soft air the breath of our own temperate region!
The delusion is charming.
{ROSS' CAIRN.}
_30th._--Yesterday after anchoring in Depôt Bay I walked over to
Possession Point, to visit Ross' cairn. I found a few stones piled up on
two large boulders, and under each a halfpenny, one of which I pocketed.
Upon the ground lay the fragments of a bottle which once contained the
record, and near it a staff about 4 feet long. Having calculated upon
finding the bottle sound, I was obliged to make an impromptu record-case
of its long neck, into which I thrust my brief document, and consigned
it to the safe custody of a small heap of stones, the staff being
erected over it.
{MT. WALKER.}
It was dark before I got on board again. The strait had been
reconnoitred from the hills, and was reported to be perfectly clear of
ice! This morning we made a fourth attempt to pass through; but Bellot
Strait was by no means clear; the same obstruction existed which
defeated our last attempt, and in precisely the same place. Returning
eastward, we entered a narrow arm of the sea, nearly a couple of miles
to the west of Depôt Bay, and anchored in a small creek perfectly
sheltered and land-locked, at the foot of a sugarloaf hill.[16] The
temperature is falling; last night it stood at 24°.
FOOTNOTES:
[15] Mr. Kennedy discovered this important passage when in command of
the 'Prince Albert' in 1851.
[16] Subsequently named Mount Walker.