PORTUGUESE TOWNS AND HEROES.
The fog had delayed them some hours, but when the girls awoke, late the
next morning, there was not a vestige of it left, save an extra
brilliance in the clear air, while the engines were pounding away in a
brave effort to bring them into Lisbon by the schedule. As noon
approached, and the pale tan of the coast line grew upon them, all was
animation on board, for any landing when voyaging by sea, is an event,
and especially so when the stay is to be of several hours duration.
Our twins dragged out their flat steamer trunks from under their beds,
and pulled out their prettiest street costumes, glad to discard the
useful ulster for a light jacket and hat. They were told the weather
would be mild on shore, though it was November, and they were delighted
to feel themselves really "dressed up" again, as Hope remarked.
"Do you know," put in her sister ruminantly, "there's ever so much
difference between being dressed up and well dressed. Now there's Mrs.
Vanderhoff; she never is really dressed up, but I have not yet seen her
when she was not well dressed for the occasion."
"Faith, if you get to moralizing I shall go distracted! Where _did_ we
put our jeweled hat pins? I've looked and looked, and--oh, there they
are right under my nose. Goodness! is that a rap?--Ah, is it you, Miss
Bess? Come right in. How fine you look in your shore clothes!"
"Shore clothes? That's good! Country people talk about store clothes
at home, but I never heard of shore clothes, before."
"Well, it's my invention--an inspiration of the moment. I'll make you
a present of it. Do you know, Faith, we'll have to buy some new
handkerchiefs, or have ours laundered in some way. I never used so
many in my life."
"You might do as the Carrollton girls, from Chicago, did when they were
abroad, last year," remarked Bess with a laugh. "There were so many of
them that the laundry bills were dreadful, so they concluded to wash
out their own handkerchiefs. Of course they had no way of ironing
them, so, while they were still very wet, they would plaster them up
against the window-panes in the sun, to dry. They said the embroidered
ones would come out beautifully, just as if nicely pressed on the wrong
side. It got so they would look at the window panes the first thing,
when they reached a hotel, or pension, to see if they were large enough
for drying-boards. And when they visited the Tuileries, as they all
stood in silence, gazing at the great fountain, the lovely flowers, and
the lawn of velvet, Minnie suddenly broke out, 'What a beautiful place
to dry our handkerchiefs, girls!'"
"How ridiculous!" cried Faith. "I hope no such practical thought will
mar the romance of our visit to Lisbon, to-day."
"Oh, nothing could take your romance away," said Hope. "A little more
practicality wouldn't hurt you. But come, I'm ready. Let's go up and
see the blessed land, even if it is only Portuguese soil."
Thus talking and laughing they hastened deckwards, and many eyes turned
upon them with pleasure as they appeared, so bright and rosy, and
unconscious of anything but the enjoyment in hand. Even Lady Moreham's
face relaxed, and her eyes followed them with a wistful expression, as
she remarked, _sotto voce_, "How sweetly they look!"
"Sweet, you mean," hinted Mrs. Poinsett at her elbow, with a
deferential air, yet decided tone.
The other turned with a quick, impatient sigh, and half-resentful
manner, but in a moment moved closer and said humbly,
"Thank you for the correction! Do not let my smallest errors escape
you."
Mrs. Poinsett bent her dignified head.
"I obey you, my lady, though it is hard for both of us."
"Yes, everything is hard, but no matter."
And now all eyes were gazing shorewards, for Lisbon presents a
beautiful appearance when approached from the water, rising, as she
does, in terraces which overlook the noble Tagus, and are in turn
overlooked by the Sierras, ending in the Peak of Lisbon, at its mouth.
Arriving thus, one does not see the filth and squalor, the tumble-down
buildings, unpaved streets, or many poor mean houses tucked in among
the grander ones. Lisbon has sometimes been called "The Sultana of the
West," and the comparison is apt enough, for like many a sultana her
first appearance is conspicuously beautiful, but she will not bear too
close inspection. Her jewels are often mere colored glass, her
embroideries tawdry, and her garments not over clean.
But in the brilliant sunshine of this glowing noon Portugal's capital
sat throned in majesty, and the passengers were enthusiastic in their
praises.
"Come!" cried Dwight, appearing like a bombshell in their midst. "Are
you ready, girls? We're going ashore together, and while the captain
runs about on his affairs, uncle and mother are going to trot us around
wherever we want to go. Then, by and by, we're to meet him in the
Place of Commerce, and go for dinner at the Braganza. He and uncle
have fixed it all up. Hip, hooray! Won't it be jolly to be on land
again?"
But it proved slow work making their way in, for the river's mouth,
which broadens into a noble harbor, was choked with the shipping of
many lands, which had doubtless been detained by the fog of last night.
As the young people leaned over the guard rail, it was great fun to
watch the crowd of clumsy little native boats, laden with fruit and
wine, which were hovering about the steamer, and getting in the way of
everybody, while crying their wares. Many of these boatmen seemed as
dark in complexion as any East Indian on board, and nearly all wore
ear-rings, generally of silver, in the dingy lobes of their ears. They
seemed noisy and quarrelsome, and often shrieked what seemed like
terrible imprecations at each other, shaking their fists and scowling
darkly, only to be laughing carelessly the next minute, as if nothing
mattered. Dwight was about motioning one man to fling him up a bunch
of figs, in exchange for the silver coin in his fingers, when his uncle
called them to the other side of the deck, which was just as well, for
it would have had to be a splendid toss and catch had he secured them.
Mr. Lawrence wanted to point out the difference between a clumsy coast
lugger just putting out to sea, and a clean little clipper-built
English yacht coming in. He said,
"It is a difference that you will see in almost everything here. The
Portuguese do not know the meaning of the word thrift, as we understand
it, and if cleanliness is not next to godliness with them, it certainly
is next to royalty, for it never descends to the common people."
When, at last, they went on shore and left the wharves behind, most of
the bustle died away, and they could see that Mr. Lawrence had only
told the truth, in the easy way in which all business seemed to be
managed.
But they found much to admire and enjoy in the odd costumes and people
they were constantly meeting; more, as Hope rather contemptuously
remarked, than in the buildings, which were "just like houses anywhere."
She was right enough, for this is largely true on the seaward side of
Lisbon. Her quaintness, and squalor also, lie further inland, where
the old quarters are to be found.
"So you don't think Lisbon has many novelties, Miss Hosmer?" laughed
Mr. Lawrence, who thought there was more fun in the young people than
in scenes that were not new to him. "Just wait a bit! We are coming
to something now."
He led the way into a pleasant enclosure, or placa, as they call it
there, saying carelessly, "Let's cross to the other side."
They started briskly enough, but in a minute Hope flung out a hand as
if for support.
"Oh, I can't stand up another minute!" she cried. "It makes me
seasick."
But Dwight caught her arm and laughingly urged her on, stumbling and
protesting, for this is known as Rolling Motion Square, and is paved in
gray-blue stone to represent billows in motion. So complete is the
effect that those who are still giddy from ocean travel find it a trial
to walk across it.
"Dwight," called his mother admonishingly, "you will weary the patience
of these young ladies. Come and help your mother a minute, can't you?"
"Of course I can, mommy, provided Miss Hope will release me, but she is
clinging awfully tight just now!"
Amid the laughter his uncle sent him forward with a push, and offered
his own arm.
"Get out, you rascal! We're nearly across, Miss Hosmer, and I'm very
glad of an opportunity to monopolize you for a little. I see you are
not greatly impressed with Portugal; you don't like it so well
as--well, Lynn, for instance?"
"Now you are laughing at me, but indeed I do not! Do you know, Mr.
Lawrence, I have always wished we girls were Americans in real
earnest--to live there, you understand. I love England, too, but while
I was with Uncle Albert at Lynn, he used to talk to me a great deal
about that grand United States and it seems to me a wonderful land.
Faith was not so strong as I, and used to stay in more--you see, uncle
was not really in the busy part, but well out where it was more like
the country--and she did not go about with him as I did. Once he took
me to Plymouth, and when he showed me that rock with the railing around
it, and told me about those Pilgrim fathers braving the sea and
savages, just to worship God as they thought was right, it seemed to me
as if my whole soul bowed down in reverence! From that minute I was an
American girl--a New England girl--and I have kept true to my father's
country ever since."
"I think," said Mr. Lawrence, thoughtfully, "that there is something in
the foundation of our New England which gives it an interest beyond
that of almost any region known, and it certainly appeals to any nature
which has an enthusiasm for the heroic and noble. Many countries have
been acquired through bloodshed, by conquest and because of greed and
glory, but a country whose foundations were laid in the rights of
conscience only, whose progenitors took God alone for their Leader, and
his rules and service for their code--who came in peace and poverty,
demanding nothing but the right to live and die true men--ah! no wonder
New England is proud of her forefathers."
"What Portuguese hero are you lecturing about now, uncle?" called back
Dwight, saucily, but was at once suppressed by his mother. Hope
answered lightly,
"We have found better heroes than those old Portuguese fighters, we
think; haven't we, Mr. Lawrence?"
"Yes. Still, there is one man whom I greatly admire, of this nation,
and I think we will visit his statue next. What do you know about Luiz
de Camoes, or, as we write it, Camoens, Dwight?"
"Gracious! Nothing at all; never heard of him. Was he a fighter?"
"Hardly. At any rate he did his fighting in a noble way--rather like
heaping coals of fire I should say. He was a writer."
"Oh, tell us about him, uncle."
"What! A lecture? But that is not admissible in polite society."
"Now, don't tease. You know we are all dying to hear about him.
Proceed!"
"Dying?" put in Mrs. Vanderhoff. "How extravagantly you talk, my son."
"Well, crazy, then."
She laughed hopelessly.
"Go on, pray," she said to her brother. "He simply leaps from the
frying-pan into the fire."
"De Camoens," he said, "was by no means without faults, but he was
gifted, generous, forgiving, and brave. He was foolish enough to love
a lady too near the throne, and on that account was banished, and
endured many hardships for years. Yet he did not let this dampen his
love of country, and his loyalty to the government. Though an exile,
he wrote a romantic epic extolling the deeds of his countrymen in all
ages, which has become a great classic, and has made both them and
himself immortal. I call that a generous deed! He died poor and
unnoticed, but now his people make an idol of him, and his statue is
one of the sights of Lisbon."
"Did he live here?" asked Faith. "That is, when he was not in exile?"
"Yes, this was his home."
"And his poem was the Lusiad," added Mrs. Vanderhoff.
"Why, I've heard of that!" cried Dwight. "We had something about it in
our Rhetoric."
"And here," said Mr. Lawrence, pointing down a street into which they
had turned, "you catch your first glimpse of his statue. Poor fellow!
I wonder if he knows of the tardy recognition, wherever he is now?"
They stood some time before this monument to an unfortunate genius,
then started on a lively exploration of the streets and shops, which
was perhaps more interesting to the ladies than to their escort. At
any rate it was with something like a sigh of relief that he at length
glanced at his watch, and declared it was time to meet the captain in
the Place of Commerce, close by.
This is a conspicuous square in Lisbon, and they had already visited
some of its arcaded shops, but without taking special note of its
attractions. Now they had leisure to stroll about and admire the fine
public buildings, and the exquisite flowers and foliage. Quite
suddenly they came upon the captain who was, to the great astonishment
of his daughters, walking leisurely about in company with Lady Moreham
and Mrs. Poinsett. They all stopped to exchange greetings, and finally
wandered over to the open side of the square, where is a fine view of
the Tagus, with its varied shipping and busy shores. As they were
turning to make their way to the hotel for dinner, Faith found herself
beside the English lady, who said in a gentle voice, which seemed oddly
out of place with her reserved, almost haughty, manner,
"Have you enjoyed the afternoon, my child?"
"Very much, thank you," said Faith. "There are so many queer-looking
people, and it is diverting to visit all these open booths, and try to
understand their jargon and make them understand ours. I feel in a
dream sometimes."
"Then you have not traveled largely?"
"Very little, my lady."
"I heard you and your sister speak of being in the United States some
time, did I not?"
"Oh yes, a year. Our father was born there."
"And you were in Boston?"
"Yes, many times."
"Did you ever go to any of the suburbs--Brookline, for instance?"
"I was there twice. We had friends living there. Isn't it a charming
place? It made me think of some of our prettiest English towns."
"Oh, it is better--that is, I have heard it spoken of as a little
paradise. Did you go about considerable?"
Faith glanced at her, surprised by several things. First, there was a
wistful note in her voice which seemed singular when speaking of a town
never visited; second, with all her precise use of language, once in a
while this woman of the highest aristocracy made an odd slip in a
grammatical way. She was a somewhat puzzling compound. Faith answered,
"A little. We rode up on Corey's Hill, of course, and around by the
reservoir, and out towards Jamaica Pond--but you do not know, perhaps--"
"Go on, pray! I like to hear it." The woman's manner was almost
breathless with eagerness, and Faith, wondering still more, continued.
"I enjoyed as much as anything just wandering around alone, and looking
at the lovely homes. I never was quite sure when I was in a real
street, or in a private way, till I saw the signs up, and I used to
wonder why these beautiful little lanes were labeled, 'Dangerous,' till
uncle told me it was because they were private property, and the town
would not be responsible for accidents that might happen there. My
friend lived in a park, with several houses set down at random, and
pretty drives through it, and another little girl I visited lived well
up the hill, and when she wanted to come down town in winter she just
tucked herself up on a little sled, and coasted all the way. I thought
that must be great fun!"
Lady Moreham's eyes were all alight.
"I love to hear you tell about it!" she said. "Some other time we will
talk some more. Your father is beckoning you to hurry, now, and there
is my friend waiting for me impatiently. But did you ever hear of
Hale's story, The Man Without a Country? Hale is an American writer."
"I have heard of him, but have not read that story," returned the girl.
"It is a sad one--a very sad one! Good-by. Thank you for a pleasant
stroll. I will see you again."
She passed swiftly ahead, to join Mrs. Poinsett, and Faith turned aside
to her own party, but when they joked her on making a conquest of the
titled lady she only smiled dreamily, and saw an eager face, filled
with almost girlish life, begging for childish particulars about a
modest place in far-away New England.
It was after sunset when, their excellent dinner over, they returned on
board the dear old steamer, which seemed really like home as Joey
smiled a welcome, Mr. Malcolm called a greeting down from the guards,
and two or three of the babies ran from their ayahs' sides, along the
deck, to meet them. Even the Bengali boy grinned, as he cleared away
some paper bags and fruit skins, and a little Mohammedan, who had been
making a perch to which Texas could be chained when on deck, came with
deep salaams to beg that they would step and see if it were
satisfactory. They expressed themselves much pleased, but Faith
pointed to the long chain attached, and said.
"I don't like that! It makes me think of dungeons and criminals."
"But we'd lose him without it," urged Hope.
"I suppose so. I'm glad, though, my pet is a cat, and does not need
chains or cages, I'm going to tell the babies a story in the little
saloon, Hope, if you want me. They like it before they have to go to
bed."
An hour or so later the girls were resting idly in their own stateroom,
when Faith asked, suddenly. "What do you think of my lady? Do you
like her any better?"
"You mean Lady Moreham? Yes, I think I do. What was she saying to
you, anyhow, in the placa?"
"Not much. Simply asking questions. I did the talking."
"I thought at first she was horrid--proud and cross, you
know,"--continued Hope, who was lolling indolently on the
dimity-covered seat, in a loose gown, "but I'm not so certain of it,
now. There's something about her--I wonder if father ever knew her
before? He seems friendly with her, don't you think?"
"Oh, he's friendly with everybody; it's his business to be. And, of
course, she is an important personage. But she kept me talking about
Brookline, to-day--you remember the pretty place just out from Boston
don't you?--and it seemed odd she should care about it. And did you
notice, yesterday, whenever we spoke of--"
"Yes, I did. You can't mention America but she wakes up. Other times
she doesn't even seem to hear. Perhaps she has been there, after all."
"Possibly. I wonder what she is going out to India for?"
"Oh, to join her husband, probably. That's what all the ladies go for,
isn't it?"
A tap at the door and their father's voice.
"Asleep, girlies?"
"Oh no, papa," cried Hope, throwing the door open. "We are up yet, and
as wide awake as hawks."
"All right! Get into your ulsters, and come up to the pilot-house.
There's a fresh breeze springing up from N.N.E. that will send us
spinning on our way, when we can catch it. As soon as we get a good
offing, you'll see as pretty a sight as you need ever expect to--the
old 'International' under full canvas making her eighteen knots an hour
for Gibraltar--lively now!"
In a moment they were beside him, hastening to the elevated turret,
with its outlook in every direction, and presently the girls were
enchanted to watch the lively rattling of ropes and shrouds, the rapid
unfurling of the great sails, that snapped to place as if clapping
giant hands in joy. When these caught the breeze and braced themselves
to duty, there was a sort of thrill along the good ship, as if she had
responded with one quick heart-beat. Then, fair, still, magnificent,
she glided away, leaving the twinkling lights of city and harbor to
fade out in distance--first those low on the water, then the street
lights on the terraces, and lastly one lone gleam in a distant tower
that, like a friendly eye, still gazed after them when, far out in the
open, they sailed smoothly on, the fires banked, and Steam gracefully
yielding place to his older brother, Wind.