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_A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY._
_BY THE SAME AUTHOR._
Price 2s. 6d.
THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY FROM A FRENCH POINT OF VIEW.
_With some Economical Practices peculiar to the Nation._
"An excellent practical treatise, well expressed, full of sound
information lucidly conveyed by a writer who really knows her subject
well, and combines fine taste with a real regard for economy."--_The
Times._
A HANDBOOK
OF
FISH COOKERY
_HOW TO BUY, DRESS, COOK, AND
EAT FISH_
BY
LUCY H. YATES
_Author of "The Profession of Cookery from a French
Point of View."_
LONDON
WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED
WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C.
NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE
1897
CONTENTS.
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PAGE
INTRODUCTION 1
PART I.
CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH 7
PART II.
THE COOKING OF FISH 17
PART III.
TESTED RECIPES 23
PART IV.
FISH SAUCES 81
_INTRODUCTION._
In spite of a considerable amount of trade grumbling, the best part of
the market is still held by English fish, as a glance at any time over
the names on the crates will show. The foreign importations, though
large, are not nearly so extensive as might be supposed.
As a rule the north British ports furnish the largest supply; the
southern ports suffer the most from foreign competition. Continental
freightage also is light, and as the foreigner rarely keeps very
closely to the laws of "fence months," he gets fish into the market
when no home-caught of the same kind is to be had.
If all people, both rich and poor, could be persuaded to eat fish more
freely, they would be benefited both in health and pocket.
If the _demand_ were greater the _supply_ would be more liberal, more
varied, and also much cheaper.
At present, although there is much complaining about catches falling
off, many grounds yielding but a poor harvest, yet tons of fish are
annually sent away from the markets for manure.
The trade is both risky and variable, consequently prices have to be
kept up that the dealer may realise some profit, and for this state of
things _the modern housewife is largely accountable_.
It is not wholly a question of price, although there is still much to
desire on this point.
Ignorance, especially with the working-man's wife, will generally be
found to be the cause of the aversion which many housewives have to
the cooking of fish; even in middle and upper class households much
ignorance as to the kinds of fish and the best means of making use of
them prevails.
The poorer classes still regard fish as "nothing to make a meal of,"
and, sad to say, a great many of the poor of our cities will not eat
fish, however cheaply they may get it. They have many advantages of
getting it which those who live in superior neighbourhoods have not.
Often before the Central Market closes, first-rate cod is to be had
for twopence the pound--a seven-pound cod for a shilling. Plentiful
and wholesome as cod is, it is seldom much thought of by poor people.
Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought beneath notice, although large
quantities are consumed on the continent, and some very dainty dishes
made therefrom. Plaice, too, generally to be had at fourpence the
pound, is but lightly esteemed.
Humble Londoners care most for smoked fish, "something that has a
grip with it," they say. To meet this demand many adulterations are
practised by the cockney curer. "Haddocks" are often but indifferent
codling. The "Finnan Haddie" was caught in the Scheldt, and Stavanger
herrings are passed off as Yarmouth bloaters.
Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, and whelks, are preferred to
good substantial fish, and, as before stated, ignorance of the proper
methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this.
Where late dinners, with people of small incomes, are coming more into
favour, it is found an economy, as it is also considered the "correct
thing," to have a course of fish. Indeed, as an economical article of
diet, fish has few rivals.
Many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so
by its being invariably badly cooked, or presented always in the same
monotonous dress.
Phosphorus being essential for brain food, and as analysis has proved
fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet,
it is the more valuable still on this account.
The fish which afford the most nourishment are the kinds which most
resemble meat, as salmon, mackerel, &c.; turbot and halibut, though
strictly belonging to the "lighter" order, are very nourishing on
account of the amount of meat which they bear in proportion to bone.
The whiter kinds of fish are the most easily digestible, as soles or
cod, whiting, &c., and some kinds of river fish, notably perch.
With the exception of trout--and perhaps pike--fresh-water fish are
less esteemed than they deserve to be.
Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, though genuinely it is not so,
as, although born in the river, the sea is its home and natural sphere.
In Parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish
caught in the Seine; and in country places where sea-water fish is
often difficult to obtain, the ponds and rivers will often furnish
excellent substitutes.
All fresh-water fish--with the exception of trout--is at its best in
winter-time.
Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in themselves as they may be, exemplify
the saying that "what is one man's meat is another man's poison;"
accordingly, where they are found to disagree they should be strictly
avoided.
Oysters, the most highly esteemed of shell-fish, are frequently ordered
by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with
easy digestion, the amount of gluten they contain giving them this
valuable quality.
Lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to
oysters, and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious.
Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should properly rank as "relishes";
they are extremely useful in savoury dishes, either with or without
other fish.
Cockles are deservedly esteemed by the rich, and they have often staved
off the pressure of starvation from the poor of our coasts.
The limpet is a great favourite with the Irish, while the periwinkle is
the poor man's luxury, and the clam enjoys high favour in the United
States.
PART I.
_CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH._
Before coming to this important part of our subject, we would like to
offer a suggestion (in all courtesy, be it understood) to our friends
the fishmongers.
Why do they, we would ask, invariably establish themselves on the sunny
side of the road? Surely if any branch of trade requires coolness and
shade it is the fish trade, yet how rare an exception to find one so
situated. Then we would respectfully draw their attention to their way
of handling the fish. Often it receives most unmerciful treatment,
being knocked about on the marble slab with a force quite unnecessary.
All fish suffer more or less, but delicate fish, such as soles, suffer
in this way just as a ripe peach or pear does if subjected to the same
treatment. The same difference can be detected in the bruised part of
fish as in a bruised peach.
Also a too liberal pouring-on of water is injurious. No doubt the
bright and well-washed fish, surrounded with lumps of ice, look far
more tempting than the boat-load all smeared with blood, yet the fish
would be much better if they did not see fresh water until they are
to be dressed at home. In this matter, however, the fishmonger is to
a large extent ruled by popular opinion, and if the latter forbids
the purchase of fish in their more natural condition, he is perhaps
justified in endeavouring to suit the fancy of his customers.
In choosing fish care should be taken not to judge too much by first
appearances, although, fortunately, fish, if not fresh, soon tells its
tale.
If the eyes are dull, or the skin and the scales rub off easily, _avoid
that fish_. If the skin is bright, the flesh firm to the touch when
pressed between the thumb and finger, you may rely upon its being
fresh; stale fish, or that which has been kept long in ice, is always
flabby.
One safe general direction for choosing fish may be given in few
words, viz., _choose the plump ones_.
A short fish, thick about the shoulders, is much to be preferred to a
long thin one. Thick soles, or thick turbots, are far preferable to
thin ones. The same with codfish.
Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by weight, and those of medium size
are best in flavour.
There are one or two kinds of fish which are positively improved by
being kept a day or two, notably skate and red mullet.
Mackerel, on the contrary, is a fish than which none spoils more
rapidly.
The sole holds a first position among flat fish, and is deservedly
esteemed, as its flesh is firm and delicate and very easily digested,
hence its great popularity with the sick. It has also the advantage of
being obtainable all the year round in good condition. The skin of the
back is sometimes dark, sometimes white, varying with the nature of the
ground on which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size from quite little
slips, called "tongues," to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds
per pair. Those in roe are rather insipid in flavour, and are best for
filleting. They vary in price, but are never a _cheap_ fish.
Halibut is an excellent substitute for turbot, which it rather
resembles in flavour, and is a comparatively cheap fish. It is abundant
in spring and summertime, and always a favourite with Jewish people.
Being a very large fish, it is rarely sold entire. The choice bits are
the flackers over the fins and the pickings about the head.
A fillet or "steak" is the most profitable portion for general eating.
Cod is at its best about Christmas time. From the end of January to
March it is less good and not abundant; in May again it is generally
very fine. The best are those which are plump and round at the tail,
the sides having a slightly ribbed appearance, with yellow spots on a
clear skin.
Large cod are not generally cooked whole, being so much thicker at the
head than at the tail. The head and shoulders, usually sold apart, form
a handsome dish.
It is a very nourishing fish, valuable in many ways, and if its
"adaptabilities" were more understood it would be more generally
appreciated.
The salmon has been called the "king of fresh-water fish," yet, as
before remarked, it does not belong to this category.
The river is its birthplace, it is true, but the sea is its pasture
ground, where it returns periodically to renew its strength. It
inhabits fresh and salt water alternately, spending its summer in the
river and its winter in the sea. Just as the swallow returns again to
the same roof which sheltered it, so the salmon returns again to the
same river. This fact has been taken advantage of to naturalise salmon
in rivers where formerly there were no signs of them. No stranger
salmon cruising along the coast will mistake another river's mouth for
the mouth of its own river.
The flesh is rich and delicious in flavour, and to be eaten in
perfection it should be dressed as soon as caught; there will then be
found between the flakes a creamy-white substance called "curd," which
is highly esteemed by the epicure. Nevertheless, it is then highly
indigestible; to be perfectly wholesome eating the salmon should be
kept twenty-four hours, then the curd solidifies, and though perhaps
less delicate in flavour, it is richer and far less likely to disagree.
In season from February to August; it is at its cheapest in July and
August.
Salmon trout, though resembling salmon in flavour and appearance, are
really not at all the same species. They rarely exceed two to three
pounds in weight--generally they are but three-quarters of a pound.
They are justly regarded as a great delicacy, and are at their best in
spring and early summer. The flesh is sometimes white, sometimes red;
the latter is the most prized.
When choosing salmon trout examine the inside of the throat through the
gills. If this is very red the flesh will prove to be red, though not
so red as salmon.
There are two or three kinds of trout: common, sea, and white trout.
Sea trout reaches a good size, white trout never does. River trout are
most delicious and highly esteemed; the most delicate in flavour are
those which weigh from three-quarters to one pound.
Trout, which is in season from May to September, is in perfection in
June.
Carp and tench are pond rather than river fish, and both have a great
fondness for burying themselves in mud, and owing to this the flesh
has often a slight muddy taste; for this reason the fish should lie in
strong salt and water for a few hours, then be well cleansed in clear
spring water.
Both are at their best in the winter months. The tench, though a
smaller fish, is richer and more delicate than the carp. They are
useful fish to families residing in the country.
Although the pike attains to a considerable size in England, it is
small in comparison with its brethren found in Russian and Lapland
waters. Indeed it more truly deserves to be called a Russian fish, so
much more abundant and popular is it there. In colour the skin is a
pale olive-grey, with several yellowish spots on the sides, and the
mouth is furnished with a prodigious number of teeth, which has earned
for it the name of "fresh-water shark."
It was at one time a very popular article of food, and is still
considered a good fish for the table. In some countries the fish is
salted and dried, and the roe made into caviare.
The perch, which is one of the commonest of our fresh-water fish, is
also one of the best. It is met with in almost all lakes and rivers in
temperate regions. When full-grown it is a large fish, although one
weighing a pound is thought a good size, and one of three pounds very
large. The flesh is white, firm, of a good flavour, and easily digested.
Perch are so tenacious of life, they may be carried fifty miles and yet
survive the journey.
Best used as soon as caught, they are also better for being crimped as
soon as they leave the water. Their season is from June to February.
Perhaps the most commonly used fish is the herring. Shoals of herring
visit the British Islands from the end of May till October, and even
occasionally during the winter months. In the beginning of the season
the fish is rather oily, and often found to be indigestible on that
account, but after the first few weeks this disappears, and then it
becomes both digestible and nourishing.
In choosing herrings take care that they feel firm, and have bright
eyes and scales.
Sprats closely resemble herrings in appearance and flavour, only they
are but a third of the size of the latter. They are very abundant on
the North British coasts, and in Edinburgh and Glasgow are sold by
measure. Their best season is the winter time, and their freshness may
be judged by their silvery appearance--or otherwise.
The highly esteemed smelt is a most delicate fish. When fresh it
possesses an odour like a freshly-cut cucumber, but this perfume passes
away twelve hours after it has been caught.
The Dutch fisheries furnish very fine smelts, and the baskets full
of bright silvery little bodies look very tempting in the wholesale
market. These are never what may be called cheap fish. In season from
November to May. Smelts which have been split and dried are called
sparlings.
Another fish which is cheap and plentiful in the winter months is the
haddock. They seldom weigh more than from three to four pounds, and
the largest are considered the best. They should be gutted as soon as
possible, and hung up to dry with salt inside them. Scotch haddock have
the highest reputation.
Among lesser known fish are the gurnet, dory, and ling. All of them
are excellent eating. The dory resembles the turbot in flavour, and the
gurnet has firm white flesh, of agreeable taste. In the early spring
months ling is captured in large quantities off the Orkney and Shetland
Isles.
Skate and plaice are both less thought of in England than they deserve
to be; in France they are better appreciated. Skate improves by being
hung up for a day before using. Young skate are called "maids," and
their flesh is tender and delicate.
Plaice is in good condition when the body is thick and firm, the eyes
bright, and the pale side tinged with pink.
Hake, or "white salmon," is a west-country fish, common in Devonshire.
In season in the autumn months.
Eels and lampreys, very rich, and not over wholesome, are mostly food
for the epicure. They are useful in cookery where a succulent dish is
required. The lamprey is but little met with in the present day.