CHAPTER XIII THE POETIC SPIRIT

_The naturalist's mind and men's complex nature--An eminent

ethnologist--The use of fools--The simple animal mind--Herring gull and

rock-pipit--Man and animals compared--The imaginative faculty--Cornish

poets--Hawker of Morwenstow--Prose writers--Thomas Carew--Purity of race

in Cornwall--Dearth of imaginative work--A prosaic people--Cornwall

and Ireland contrasted--Reason of difference--Cornish legends--Mystery

plays--Wesley's mission and greatness--Ugliness of Methodism--Effect on

the child's mind._

|THE naturalist's mental habit of always trying to get at the reason and

hidden significance of things is apt to become a worry when he begins to

look closely at his fellow-creatures with the object of finding out what

they really are, or what the character of this particular human family

or herd is compared with that of some other herd which he has studied

and thinks he knows. Or perhaps it would be nearer the mark to say that

his anxiety to classify everything is the source of his trouble, when

with a Réaumur's skill his curious mind would distinguish men according

to their racial and temperamental characters. It vexes his little busy

brain, which loves neatness and symmetry, that men are so various,

so complex, that they have so many hidden meanings and motives and

instincts--so many invisible threads in the woven texture of their

natures, which occasionally shine out, yellow and purple and scarlet

among the threads of sober grey, yet when looked at closely, or examined

with a magnifying-glass, become invisible again. Either he must give up

the quest and the task in despair or else go doggedly on with a sort of

stupid courage, trying not to think that he is blundering all the time.

It is consoling in a difficulty of this kind to recall the case of an

eminent ethnologist, who was exceedingly industrious and prolific and

was very great a short generation ago, about which time his learned

contemporaries, vexed at his facile method of overcoming all

difficulties, rose up against and overthrew him, smashing and

pulverising his beautiful theories. After which, with a very engaging,

proud humility, he boasted that he had been the fool to rush in where

the angels (his opponents) had feared to tread, and that to attack and

overthrow they had had to follow him into new and wider fields where

they otherwise would never have ventured. We must all be fools in

the same way, if we have a little of that courage which I have called

stupid, each in his own small sphere, and we certainly do a useful thing

if, in exposing our thick skulls to knocks (which don't matter), we

succeed in giving courage to better men.

If I had not been a fool, or had not troubled myself with this serious

question, it would have been much pleasanter for me in my rambles at

this end of all the land, seeing that the inferior animals are so very

much simpler and more easy to read than men. Those donkeys, for example,

which I meet on the moor, and their scarcely less intelligent friends

the jackdaws, I know them a hundred times better than I can know any

man--even my own self. And the house-dog too, who is supposed to be

mentally more like his masters than any other beast--this dog who

watches my comings and goings out of the corners of his eyes and who

thinks himself wonderfully clever when, knowing that I don't want him,

he steals secretly off an hour before I go out and meets me (by chance)

among the furze bushes a mile from home--do I not know every thought in

his curly black head, if his little mental trick of putting two and two

together can be called thought? And the gulls on the cliff--do I not

know just how they will comport themselves; how each bird will eye me

suspiciously, sideways, with one brilliant eye at a time; how they will

rise and float and dwell on the air, or sit on a rock with beaks to

the wind--do I not know every word they will say in their herring-gull

language?

It is true they will now and then do a thing which will come as a

surprise. Here is an example--an incident I have just witnessed. All day

the wind had been blowing half a gale from the sea when I went down to

the rocks to get a good mouthful of air before it was dark. There

were the gulls at the usual spot; and no sooner had I climbed into a

sheltered nook among the rocks than they were all up floating overhead,

swooping and rising, and pouring out their insistent loud anxious angry

cries. For they were just beginning to nest on the ledges of the cliff

beneath me and were troubled at my presence. In spite of the very cold

wind and the growing obscurity, when the sun had gone down, I kept

my place for upwards of an hour, and for the whole of the time they

continued soaring and screaming above me: now with extended motionless

wings seeming not to move yet mounting all the time, higher and higher,

until they would be four or five hundred yards above me and would begin

to look very small; then down and down again in the same imperceptible

way, but sometimes descending with an angry rush until they were no more

than thirty or forty yards high and one bird among them would make a

violent swoop to intimidate me, coming to within a couple of yards of my

head with loud swish of wings and sudden savage scream. I noticed

that the swoops were all made by one bird, that this same bird acted

throughout as fugleman and leader, that whenever the others began to

drift away, further and further apart, and their cries grew fainter and

less persistent, he or she reanimated them and brought them back with

a fresh outburst of fury, emitting louder screams and dashing down in

a more violent manner. The longer I watched them the more wonderful

appeared the difference in disposition between this one bird, this white

flying image of wrath, and the others.

Now at intervals of about three or four minutes my attention would

wander from the gull to see and listen to a rock-pipit that had its home

at that spot and was also nesting in a chink quite close to the gullery.

Every day and all day long, in all weathers, the little singer could be

seen and heard at that exposed spot, soaring up at intervals to a height

of a couple of hundred yards; then slowly falling back to the rocks,

head down, tail spread and wings pressed to its sides with the quills

standing out--a shuttlecock or miniature parachute in figure; and while

descending he emitted the series of airy tinkling sounds that make his

melody. And now, in spite of the lateness of the hour and increasing

gloom on the sea and clouded sky and of the cold wind, the little

creature would not desist from its flight and song. Its little big

passion was as strong and inexhaustible as that of the enraged gull.

Then occurred the incident I set out to tell: the gulls with their

prolonged monotonous wailing cries were balanced in the air at a height

of ninety or a hundred yards, their trumpeter and inspirer keeping in

the centre of the scattered company directly above my head. The

pipit shot up from the pile of rocks in which I was lying, and rising

obliquely from the land side reached the highest point of its flight

well over the sea, and then just as it set its feathers to begin its

descent a furious gust of wind caught and whirled it landwards, still

emitting its tinkling sound, into the very midst of the company of

hovering gulls. No sooner was it among them than the angry, alert

leading bird, half closing its wings, swooped down on the little

tinkler, and instantly a frantic chase began, with lightning-quick

doublings, now over the sea, now the land, the gull with its open beak

almost touching the terrified little fugitive. "Save yourself, pipit!" I

exclaimed, for another inch and the small spotted singer would have been

in the big hungry yellow beak and flight and tinkling song ended for

ever. And in another moment the tension was ended, for the little thing

had gained the rocks and was safe: but it sang no more that evening.

Now, strange as all this may seem--that the pipit should live and breed

just by or among the herring gulls, ready at all times to seize and

devour any living creature that comes by chance in their way, and that

it should go on ascending and descending, singing and singing, every

day and all day long, just where the gulls are perpetually floating

and flying hither and thither, always on the look-out for something to

devour--it is but acting in accordance with its known character. The

small bird is without fear of its big rapacious neighbours: it has its

own quickness and adroitness to save it from all natural dangers of

winds and waves and killing birds; it was only the rare chance of that

gust of wind striking it just when it paused in mid-air before dropping,

and carrying it away sideways into the midst of the herring gulls, which

so nearly cost it its life. On the following morning the gulls would

be there, flying about hungry as ever, and the pipit would go on with

flight and song in the same old way, free as ever from apprehension.

And as with the pipits so it is with all creatures that are preyed upon:

sudden violent death as the result of any failure, or mistake, or slight

accident, is a condition of wild life, else its vigour would not be so

perfect and its faculties so bright.

Every day, in fact, when I am observing the actions of birds, or of

animals generally, from a dog or a donkey to a fly, I may witness

something unexpected, an action which will come as a surprise; but this

will be only because of its rarity, or because it comes about through

a rare concurrence of circumstances, but not because the creature has

acted in any way contrary to its nature.

It is sadly different (sadly, I mean, for the naturalist) with regard to

human beings. You cannot generalise from the actions of an individual

as you may safely do in the case of a titlark or a gull or a donkey. You

study a dozen or a hundred, and then begin to think that you have not

had a sufficient number owing to the variety you have noticed, and you

study a hundred more and after all you are still in doubt. It may appear

that, in the last chapter, I have not shown much doubt as to the want of

a sense of humour (as we understand it) in the Cornish. J have not; but

when it comes to another and a greater faculty--imagination, to wit--I

am not very sure.

If it could be taken for granted that a people who have never produced

any artistic or literary work worth preserving are without imagination,

to use the word in its higher sense, as the creative faculty, the

question would be a very simple one, seeing that Cornwall has given

us nothing or next to nothing. Compare it in that respect with the

adjoining county, divided from it by a little river, but distinct

racially: what lustre Devon has shed on the whole kingdom! how many of

her sons are so great in arms and arts, above all in literature, that we

regard them as among the immortals; and what a multitude of lesser men

who have made us richer in many ways! Now as one with a very superficial

knowledge on this subject I have put the following question to the three

men of my acquaintance who have the widest knowledge of English poetic

literature: "Has Cornwall ever produced a poet?" and in each case came

the quick reply, "Y es, Hawker of Morwenstow." Now Hawker is a great man

to us on account of his strong and original character, but he was a very

small poet; I should say that during the last half-century England has

always had twenty or thirty living minor poets who rank high above him.

Finally, he was not a Cornish but a Devon man, and it therefore struck

me as exceedingly curious that I should have had that same answer from

the last of the three friends interrogated, seeing that he is himself

a highly accomplished poet, a Devonian whose birthplace is just on the

borders of the duchy. The reply--"Yes, Hawker of Morwenstow" may then be

taken to mean "No, not one."

Nevertheless, it cannot be said that Cornwall has contributed absolutely

nothing to literature. I have already sung the praises of Richard

Carew's work; but he was a prose writer--he failed pitifully when he

attempted verse; he therefore stands on a lower level, with perhaps two

or three more who have written good prose--William Scawen and Borlase,

the antiquary, may be mentioned. But there is Thomas Carew, the lyrist,

and friend of Donne, Suckling and Ben Jonson--if he may be called a

Cornishman. His name is not included in Boase and Courtney's monumental

_Bibliotheca Cornubiensis_, in the preface of which work they

courageously say, "The writers of Cornwall bear no inconsiderable place

in the literature of their country." But if we take it that this Carew

was a Cornishman, though born out of the county, we must admit that

Cornwall has produced one good poet. He does not count for very much,

however--this one poet who lived three centuries ago and wrote half a

dozen little things that sparkle like diamonds--seeing that he was of

that class which is never native, of the soil. Even in those old days

men of birth did not spend their lives at home; they attended the court

and went forth wide in the world wonders for to see, and intermarried

with families outside of their own class, so that, like the Jews among

us, they were and always are, racially as well as socially, a distinct

people among the people. Norman and Saxon and Dane are we, says the poet

truly enough, and he might have added Celt, but the mixing process has

been infinitely greater in the upper ranks. The Cornish people, I take

it, are Celts with less alien blood in their veins than any other branch

of their race in the British Islands.

One day in a village street I met a fine athletic-looking oldish man

with a very marked characteristic Cornish face, but painted by alien

suns to deepest brown, and that colour of the tropics contrasted oddly

with the bright blue-grey eyes and reddish-grey beard. He laughed when

I said that I supposed he was a stranger there. Yes, a stranger in a

sense, he said, since he had been away over forty years, working in the

mines, in America, Africa and Australia. But his forty years' labour had

not hurt him much; he felt young still and was going back to Queensland

after a little look round. For one thing he had never touched alcohol in

his life and he would like to pit his strength against that of any man

of thirty in that village where he was born sixty-seven years ago. Yes,

it was his own native place which he had come back after forty years to

have a look at. His people were there still, and had been there to their

certain knowledge over six hundred years. And I dare say, he added, if

we knew all we could say a thousand.

Five or ten thousand would perhaps have been nearer the truth. And so

it is with the common people generally. They have become great roamers

nowadays; they go forth in hundreds every year into all parts of the

world, but they appear to cherish the old Cornish feeling against

marrying among strangers; they return after few or many years to find

wives, and that, I conjectured, was the old miner's motive in coming

back to his village "just to have a look round." One of the saddest

things in this perpetual going and coming is that a great many men,

young and in the prime of life, return after contracting miner's

disease, usually in Africa; and though it is known to every one that

they are doomed men, they marry and live just long enough to leave a

child or two before they are gathered to their fathers.

To return to the main point. Is this surprising dearth of the creative

faculty, or of genius, in art and literature a good criterion--does it

justify us in saying that the people are devoid of imagination?

For an answer one can only go to the people themselves--not to those of

good birth who are in a sense foreigners, or different racially as

we have seen, but to the true natives who remain from generation to

generation on the land. We are told so often and so insistently by

persons who speak with authority that the Celts are an imaginative

people that we come to regard it as an established fact, beyond

controversy, as true, for instance, as that the blood of a dark-haired

person is heavier than the blood of a blonde. It consequently came to

me as a great surprise to find that a people so markedly Celtic as the

Cornish were the most prosaic I had ever known. At first I could not

quite believe that it was so: it was only that I was a stranger among

them and had not yet found the way to the hidden romantic vein and

poetic spirit in them. Gradually it was borne in on me that the vein was

not there, that it had no existence--that my wish and no secret living

spring or hidden treasure in the earth had caused the hazel twig to

dance and dip in my hand. Or, if they had it, then, like their sense of

humour, it was of that lower or undeveloped root kind discoverable in

children and in primitive people.

Undoubtedly this is contrary to the conclusion any person would most

probably form on a first and superficial acquaintance with the people,

on account of their manner and disposition, in which they differ so

greatly from the more stolid, slower-moving, thinking and speaking

English peasant. Nevertheless in the English peasant in the north, south

and Midlands, in spite of that seemingly mental and physical heaviness

and absorption in the purely material things which concern him in his

struggle for existence, I have found that hidden vein of romance and

that poetic feeling which I have failed to find in West Cornwall.

On this subject I do not venture to speak of the Cornish people

generally. There may be important differences. I have been told that in

the more easterly parts, particularly in mining districts, the people

are not of so lively, friendly and communicative a disposition as in

West Cornwall; but I assume that here, in Bolerium, we get the least

mixed, the truer, Cornishman. Here it seemed to me that not only with

regard to the æsthetic faculties, but in various other ways too, in

mind and disposition, they are like children of a larger growth. On this

point however, one may very easily go wrong, since the same thought

will sometimes strike us with regard to other Celtic families. Yet in

Cornwall I could not get away from the idea that the child-like traits

in the character of the people were not merely a matter of disposition,

of the buoyant child surviving in the man, but that it marked a lower

stage in mental development.

[Illustration: 0217]

This may be wrong: but after all what one wants is a working theory, and

it does not very much matter whether it be true or false so long as it

enables us to get over the ground.

When we live with savages, or uncivilised people, it is very much like

living with children; we get to know them as we never know the civilised

beings we spend our lives with although they are our own people.

For however unexpected their changes of temper and actions may be,

especially where these place us in sudden peril, we yet know that they

are only feeling, thinking and acting in accordance with their true

natures. They are not quite so simple and easy to read as the lower

animals; nevertheless the difference between the uncivilised and

civilised man is so immense that we can say of the first that it is as

easy to understand him as it is to understand a dog or a donkey or a

child.

It may also be observed that there is a vast difference in this respect

between the members of separate classes in the same community, in spite

of their racial relationship--between peasant and gentleman; and it may

perhaps be taken as a truth that complex conditions of life make complex

characters. The Cornish peasant appeared to me easier to understand than

the English, and, as I imagined, because he was nearer, mentally, to

the child. It may even be that the greater sympathy with children of the

Cornish people, men and women, is due to this fact that man and child

are nearer in mind than is the case with the English people. They are

moved emotionally in the same way as children and are liable to gusts

of passion, and, like children, are apt to be cruel in their anger.

They are candid, pliant and delighted to serve you when pleased, but

are subject to petulant and stubborn fits, and will brood in sullen

resentment for days, meditating revenge, for some trivial imaginary

slight. And they are intensely fond of things which please

children--gifts, shows, gay colours, noise and excitement. Here is a

little characteristic incident in which we see the bad stubborn boy

surviving in the adult. The late Royal Academician, Hook, was on the

sands at Whitesand Bay working at a sea-piece when two natives came up

and planted themselves just behind him. There was nothing the artist

hated more than to be watched by strangers over his shoulders in this

way, and pretty soon he wheeled round on them and angrily asked them how

long they were going to stand there. His manner served to arouse their

spirit and they replied brusquely that they were going to stay as long

as they thought proper. He insisted on knowing just how long they were

going to stay there to his annoyance, and by and by, after some more

loud and angry discussion one of them incautiously declared that he

intended standing at that spot for an hour. "Do you mean that?" shouted

Hook, pulling out his watch. Yes, they returned, they would not stir one

inch from that spot for an hour. "Very well!" he said, and pulled up his

easel, then marching off to a distance of thirty yards, set it up again

and resumed his painting. And there within thirty yards of his back the

two men stood for one hour and a quarter, for as they did not have a

watch they were afraid of going away before the hour had expired. Then

they marched off muttering curses.

In all this, and still more in their occasional emotional outbreaks,

which when produced by religious excitement are so painful to witness,

the Cornish are no doubt very much like other Celts in Britain; but in

some things, with one of which alone I am concerned here--to wit, the

imaginative faculty--these separate branches of the race have diverged

very widely indeed. The old literatures of Ireland and Wales live to

show it, and in Ireland, at all events, this fountain of inspiration has

never ceased to flow. It is flowing copiously as ever now, and making

us richer every day. What is the secret of this great difference--the

reason of this creative faculty which has given Ireland, in spite of

her misery, so splendid a place in our literature, which appears like

a touch of rainbow colour in the humblest peasant's mind, and does not

exist and never has been in Cornwall? Doubtless from that mixture of

blood which came to pass in Ireland during those restless centuries of

tremendous changes, when ancient nations were cast into another mould,

of emigration and conquest and colonisation; and of the fusion of races

by intermarriage of the Irish Celts with the mentally more virile and

imaginative invaders from the north. We must assume, too, that this

fusion of blood did not go so far and hardly took place at all in

Cornwall. We see that the conquerors left but few and slight traces of

their occupancy in the peninsula, and the presumption is that they did

not take root in it, that when they had come and conquered and had their

carousal of blood they were glad to sail or march away, like William

Gilpin in search of the picturesque, from a country of so barren and

repellent an aspect, to seek for a permanent resting-place in a softer,

more fertile land. Lord Courtney, in a presidential address to the

Natural History and Antiquarian Society of Penzance, said: "While the

wave of conquest swept completely over other parts of England, it only

just reached this part and then receded. The population of Cornwall in

general has remained much more homogeneous, much more Celtic in type,

than in other parts; and of all Cornwall there is no part like this in

which we are met with probably so pure a breed of human beings."

The people were left in their rocky land, and what they had been--an

ancient crystallised race with the imaginative faculty undeveloped--they

remained and remain to this day.

It has been thought that because Cornwall is preeminently the land of

strange beliefs and of old tales and legends relating to mythical saints

and heroes, to giants and demons with a great variety of fantastic

beings--mermaids, fairies, pigsies and piskies and other little

people--the Cornish are a highly imaginative people. These things are

old survivals, and are of the imagination in its childish or primitive

stage. The belief in all these fanciful beings is pretty well dead and

gone now; at all events, I was unable to find even an old woman who

had anything to say of the old beliefs which was not disrespectful. But

these beliefs undoubtedly kept their hold on the Cornish mind very much

longer than in any other part of the country, and with these beliefs

certain pagan, or Druidical, observances were also kept up, and have

only died out within the last thirty or forty years. Similar beliefs and

observances were as common all over England as in Cornwall; there was

not a hill or down, or lake or stream, or singular tree or rock, which

did not have its own special demon or genius. All this passed away

with the fusion of the British Celts with a people in a more advanced

psychological stage. But although these childish things have been put

away so long, you will still find faint traces of them everywhere,

even in the most Saxon districts in England. They inspire little or no

belief, but are kept in memory, like old ballads, and passed on from

generation to generation. In Cornwall belief in them continued to within

very recent times, and they are remembered still. It was said not very

long ago by a well-known Penzance writer that folklorists, when they

come to Cornwall, especially the west, complain that the materials are

so abundant they do not know how to manage them. Merely to enumerate

and classify legends and beliefs in giants, little men, and fairies of

a dozen denominations, ghosts, souls, semi-devils and phantoms of divers

sorts, goblins, monsters and mermaids, is more than they can do. A very

large number of these legends, enough, one would imagine, to satisfy the

greatest enthusiast, have been collected by Robert Hunt in his Popular

Romances of the West of England, and by William Bottrell in Stories and

P'olflore of West Cornwall, in three series. There we have it, or as

much of it as we want, a huge crude mass, the rough material out of

which an early literature might have come had there ever been a mind

capable of assimilating and giving it literary form.

When the old language was in a moribund state during the seventeenth

and early eighteenth centuries, there appeared to be but one man in the

county to lament its passing--William Scawen, who loved the old things,

old usages and traditions, and who rebuked his fellow-Cornishmen for

their indifference with a bitter eloquence. But he did not grieve over

the dying language on account of any noble or beautiful or otherwise

valuable work enshrined in it. The few mystery or miracle plays and

other native productions which existed (and exist still) were not worth

preserving. What troubled him was the thought that the old ways and

spirit were to a great extent dependent on the old tongue. The plays

were valueless as literature and were of the same quality as a thousand

more which were once performed in most parts of England, the loss of

which nobody regrets, but their performance drew people together from

all parts to the vast open-air theatre, the _plan-au-Guare_, and in

this way whatever little romance and poetry existed in the minds of the

people was kept alive.

A mightier change was to come later, when Wesley made his descent on

the county about the middle of the eighteenth century and converted the

people wholesale to Methodism. This was in many ways the very worst form

of religion for a people of the temper and character of the Cornish, but

it suited them exactly at the time it came to them--a dull and stagnant

period in their history when the Church was indifferent. They were a

highly emotional race and were in a starved condition, hungry for some

great excitement, some outlet for their repressed natures, some excuse

for a mad outburst, and this gave it them--these wonderful gatherings of

miners, fishermen and labourers on the land, in the old disused theatres

under the wide open sky, listening to that mysterious supernatural man

who had it in his power to call down God to them. That same God who had

been growing further removed from their lives and dimmer in their minds

for years and for generations, until He was little more than one of

the Cornish giants or supernatural monsters believed in by the "old

people"--now once more an awful stupendous reality, a gigantic kite

hovering on broad black wings over their congregated thousands, his

burning, rapacious eyes fixed on them, while from time to time he made

his little tentative swoops to set them fluttering and screaming.

For they were like terrified fowls and chickens in a farm-yard, each

expecting and dreading to be made a victim--each knowing that his

miserable soul might not be saved until the winged terror fell upon him

to grip and bury its crooked lacerating talons in his flesh. And when

the stoop and grip came he rolled on the ground bellowing and shrieking

to the accompaniment of groans and sobs and piercing cries of those

around him. Dreadful as this was, and horrible and loathsome to witness

by any person of a decent or reverent mind, it was yet a joy to them and

gave them what they wanted--a glorious emotional feast. From the days

of Wesley to the present time these unseemly spectacles have been common

throughout the length and breadth of the peninsula, as they have been in

Wales, and one may be thankful that the Irish kept the old faith,

which does not permit such things, since it saved them from a like

degradation.

I rejoice, and all who have any respect and love for humanity will

rejoice, that in Cornwall at all events these exhibitions are declining.

Last year one day a Truro acquaintance of mine got into a railway

carriage in which were five Methodist ministers returning from a

conference they had been attending. They were discussing the decrease in

the number of converts and the decline of revivals during the last few

years. One of them, a stout, elderly person, said he did not take so

pessimistic a view of the position as the others appeared to do. He

thought the falling off, if there were any, was perhaps attributable to

the ministers themselves, and then added, "All I have got to do is to

preach my Judgment-Day sermon to set them howling." The others were

silent for a little, and then one said, "Do you think it wise to say

much about everlasting punishment at the present juncture?" No one

replied to the question, and after an uncomfortable interval they

changed the subject.

One would hardly suppose that the "present juncture" would be causing

much anxiety in far Bolerium; yet even here in this ancient rocky

fastness of Dissent the trumpets of the New Theology are beginning to

sound in some of the chapels. Methodism, on account of its wealth and

the perfection of its machine, will be the last of the sects to feel the

impending changes; but this is a subject which does not concern us here,

and enough has perhaps been said to show that Methodism with its

revival campaigns and notion as to the necessity of sudden conversion,

accompanied with the outward visible signs of the inner struggle and

change--sobbings, howlings, contortions and Glory Hallelujahs--is not a

healthy one for so extremely emotional a people.

Wesley's fame does not however suffer from these sad incidental results

of his great propaganda. He remains a very great man, the greatest of

all the sons of the Anglican Church, one who went about his work among

Celts and Saxons indifferently in a white heat which set men's hearts on

fire. He had no pleasure in seeing people carried so completely away by

their feelings and behaving like lunatics or frenzied wild beasts in a

cage; on the contrary, he abhorred the sight of such things even as

he abhorred Dissent and that "odious familiarity with the Deity" which

grieved and disgusted his reverent mind in his preachers. Nor did he

consider, nor was it possible for him to know, in his long strenuous

life, which was but a battle and a march, as the poet has said of

another leader of men, while like the wind, homeless, without resting,

he stormed across a world convulsed by a tremendous religious awakening

and excitement--he did not know that he was inflicting a deadly injury

on the Church which he loved above all things and clung to all his life

long, and, finally, that in the end it would all make for ugliness.

This is indeed the chief cause of the repulsion with which Methodism

and Nonconformity in general is regarded by those who have the sense of

beauty, whose hearts echo the poet's cry

Beauty is truth, truth beauty: that is all

Ye know on earth, and all ye need to know.

There is one God; but the gods which men worship are innumerable as

the stars in heaven and as the sands on the seashore, and they vary in

character even as their worshippers do. To go back to the dark days of

the seventeenth century, we see that beauty and whatever was of good

report, which became associated in the Puritan mind with the life and

forms of worship of their enemies, was a thing accurst. And, the human

mind being what it is, it was but natural that the particular god of

their worship came to be the very god of ugliness, a despiser of beauty

who looked with jealousy on those who were won by it even as he did on

those who kissed their hands to the rising moon. He was not the God to

whose glory the great fanes of England were raised. And from that

far time "of Oliver's usurpation when all monumental things became

despicable" this same temper of mind and dismal delusion has come

down to us in a hundred denominations with their temples of ugliness

sprinkled over all the land.

Any house is good enough to worship God in, is a treasured saying, and

it has been remarked that no place of worship has ever been raised by

Nonconformity in England which any person would turn aside from the

road to look at. This would be too little to say of the chapels in West

Cornwall, where the principle of any-house-good-enough has been carried

to an extreme. The principle may or may not be insulting to a personal

Deity, mindful of man and anxious that man should do Him honour--we

cannot know _His_ mind on such a question; but these square naked

granite boxes set up in every hamlet and at roadsides, hideous to look

at and a blot and disfigurement to the village and to God's earth, are

assuredly an insult to every person endowed with a sense of beauty

and fitness. You will notice that a cow-house, or a barn or any other

outbuilding at even the most squalid-looking little farm in a

Cornish hamlet strikes one as actually beautiful by contrast with the

neighbouring conventicle. And in a way it is so, being suited to its

purpose and in its lines in harmony with the surrounding buildings, with

the entire village grouped or scattered round the old church with its

dignified old stone tower, and finally with the rocky land in which it

is placed. From such a building--barn or cow-house--one turns to the

chapel with a feeling of amazement, and asks for the thousandth time,

How can men find it in them to do such things?

The interior of these chapels is on a par with their exterior

appearance. A square naked room, its four dusty walls distempered a

crude blue or red or yellow, with a loud-ticking wooden kitchen clock

nailed high up on one of them to tell how the time goes. Of the service

I can only say that after a good deal of experience of chapel services

in many parts of England I have found nothing so unutterably repellent

as the services here, often enough conducted by a "local preacher," an

illiterate native who holds forth for an hour on the Lord's dealings

with the Israelites in a loud metallic harsh Cornish voice.

I observed that as a rule but few adults attended the morning services

in the villages and small towns; the women had their housework to do and

dinner to cook; the men liked a long rest on a Sunday morning, and did

not care to wear their best suit of clothes the whole day. These all

flocked to the afternoon or evening services; but alas for the little

ones!--they were all packed off to chapel in the morning. Again and

again on taking my seat in a chapel at the early service I found myself

in a congregation chiefly composed of children. What can be the effect

on the child mind of such an interior and of such a service--the

intolerable sermon, the rude singing, the prayers of the man who with

"odious familiarity" buttonholes the Deity and repeats his "And now, O

Lord" at every second sentence--the whole squalid symbolism! One can but

say that if any imagination, any sense of beauty, any feeling of wonder

and reverence at the mystery of life and nature had survived in their

young minds it must inevitably perish in such an atmosphere.

[Illustration: 0230]

The Land's End: A Naturalist's Impressions In West Cornwall, Illustrated · 第 13 / 20 章