CHAPTER V.

CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE.

I.

Search for the lands discovered by the French--Kerguelen Islands--Stay

at Van Diemen's Land--Queen Charlotte's Strait--Palmerston Island--

Grand rejoicings in the Tonga Islands.

At this date the idea which had sent so many explorers to Greenland

was in full force. The question of the existence of a northern passage

between the Atlantic and the Pacific, by way of the Asiatic or

American coasts, was eagerly discussed: and should such a passage

exist, was it practicable for ships? The attempt had quite lately been

made, to discover this outlet in Hudson or Baffin Bays, and it was now

determined to seek it in the Pacific.

The task was an arduous one. The Lords of the Admiralty felt that it

was essential to send out a navigator who had experience of the

dangers of the Polar Seas, and one who had shown presence of mind in

the face of danger; one moreover, whose talents, experience, and

scientific knowledge might be of use in the powerful equipment then in

course of preparation.

In Captain Cook alone were all the requisite qualities to be found.

The command was offered to him, and although he might have passed the

remainder of his days in peace at his post in the Greenwich

Observatory, in the full enjoyment of the honour and glory he had

gained by his two voyages round the world, he did not hesitate for a

moment.

Two ships, the _Resolution_ and the _Discovery_, were placed under his

command. The latter was under the orders of Captain Clerke; and the

equipment of both was similar to that of the last expedition.

The instructions given to the commander of the expedition, enjoined

his reaching the Cape of Good Hope, and steering south in search of

the islands recently discovered by the French, in 48 degrees of

latitude, towards the meridian of the island of Mauritius. He was then

to touch at New Zealand, if he thought well, to take in refreshments

at the Society Islands, and to land the Tahitan Mai there; then to

proceed to New Albion, to avoid landing in any of the Spanish

possessions in America, and from thence to make his way by the Arctic

Ocean to Hudson and Baffin Bays. In other words he was to look in an

easterly direction for the north-west passage. This once effected,

after a stay at Kamschatka, he was to make another attempt to reach

England by the route he might judge most productive of good results

for geography and navigation.

The two vessels did not start together. The _Resolution_ set sail from

Plymouth on the 12th of July, 1776, and was rejoined at the Cape by

the _Discovery_ on the 10th of the following November, she having left

England only on the 1st of August.

The two ships were detained at the Cape until the 30th of November, by

the repairs needed by the _Discovery_. Much damaged by tempest, she

required calking. The captain profited by this long delay, to buy live

stock, which he intended to land at Tahiti and New Zealand, and also

to stock his vessels with the necessary stores for a two-years' voyage.

After steering southwards for twelve days, two islands were discovered

in 46 degrees 53 minutes south latitude, and 37 degrees 46 minutes

east longitude. The strait which separates them was crossed, and it

was found that their steep sterile coasts were uninhabited. They had

been discovered with four others, from nine to twelve degrees further

east, by the French Captains Marion-Dufresne and Crozet, in 1772.

On the 24th of December, Cook found the islands which M. de Kerguelen

had surveyed in his two voyages of 1772, 1773.

[Illustration: Kerguelen Islands.]

We will not here relate the observations made by Cook upon this group.

As they agree in every particular with those of M. de Kerguelen, we

can reserve them until we relate the adventures of that navigator, and

content ourselves with remarking that Cook surveyed the coasts

carefully, and left them on the 31st of December. The vessels were

enveloped in a thick fog, which accompanied them for more than 300

leagues.

Anchor was cast in Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, on the 26th of

January. It was the same spot at which Captain Furneaux had touched

four years earlier. The English were visited by a few natives, who

received the presents offered to them, without showing any

satisfaction.

The narrative says,--

"They were of ordinary height, but rather slightly built. Their skin

was black and their hair of the same colour, and as woolly as that of

the negroes of New Guinea, but they had not the thick lips or flat

noses of African negroes. There was nothing disagreeable in their

features, and their eyes struck us as beautiful, so did their teeth,

but they were very dirty. Most of them anointed their hair and beards

with a yellow ointment, and some even rubbed their faces with the same

stuff."

Concise as this account is, it is not the less valuable. The race of

Tasmanians is extinct, the last of them died a few years ago.

Cook weighed anchor on the 30th of January, and took up his station at

his usual point in Queen Charlotte's Strait. The vessels were soon

surrounded by pirogues, but not a single native ventured to go on

board, they were so fully persuaded that the English had come to

avenge their murdered comrades. Once convinced that the English had no

such intention, they banished their mistrust and reserve. The captain

soon found out by Mai's interpretation (he understanding the Zealand

tongue) the right cause of this terrible catastrophe.

It appeared that the English had been seated on the grass, taking

their evening meal when the natives committed several thefts. One of

them was caught and struck by a sailor. At his cry, his companions

rushed upon the sailors of the _Adventure_, who killed two of them,

but unfortunately succumbed to numbers. Several of the Zealanders

pointed out to Cook the chief who had directed the carnage, and urged

Cook to kill him. But to the great surprise of the natives and the

stupefaction of Mai, the captain refused.

Mai remarked, "In England they kill a man who assassinates another;

this fellow killed ten, and you take no revenge!"

Before he left, Cook landed pigs and goats, hoping that these animals

might at length become acclimatized to New Zealand.

Mai had a wish to take a New Zealander to Tahiti. Two offered to go,

and Cook agreed to receive them, warning them at the same time that

they would never see their native land again. But no sooner had the

vessels lost sight of the shores of New Zealand than they began to

weep. Sea-sickness added to their distress. But as they recovered from

it their sadness disappeared, and they soon attached themselves to

their new friends.

An island named Mangea was discovered on the 29th of March. At Mai's

representations the inhabitants decided to come on board. Small, but

vigorous and well-proportioned, they wore their hair knotted upon the

top of the head. They wore long beards, and were tatooed in all parts

of their bodies. Cook could not carry out his earnest wish to land, as

the people were too hostile.

A new island, similar to the last, was discovered four leagues further

on. The natives appeared more friendly than those of Mangea, and Cook

profited by this fact, and landed a detachment under Lieutenant Gore,

with Mai as interpreter. Anderson, the naturalist, an officer named

Barnes, and Mai landed alone and unarmed, running the risk of being

maltreated.

They were received with solemnity, and conducted through a crowd of

men, with clubs on their shoulders, to the presence of three chiefs,

whose ears were adorned with red feathers. They soon perceived a score

of women, who danced in a grave and serious fashion, paying no

attention to their arrival.

The officers were separated from each other, and observing that the

natives hastened to empty their pockets, they began to entertain fears

for their safety, when Mai reappeared. They were detained all day, and

forced several times to take their clothes off, and allow the natives

to examine the colour of their skin; but night arrived at last,

without the occurrence of any disagreeable incident. The visitors

regained their sloop, and cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other provisions

were brought to them.

The English may have owed their safety to the description Mai had

given of the power of their weapons, and the experiment he made before

them of setting fire to a cartridge.

Mai had recognized three of his fellow-countrymen in the crowd on the

beach.

These Tahitans had started in a pirogue to reach Ulitea Island, and

had been driven out of their course by contrary winds. As they

expected a short voyage, they had not provided themselves with food.

Famine and fatigue had reduced their number to four men, all of them

half dead, when the pirogue capsized. The unfortunate wretches managed

to seize the side of their boat and support themselves in the water

until they were picked up by the inhabitants of this island, Wateroo.

It was now twelve years since fate threw them upon this shore, more

than two hundred leagues from their native island. They had contracted

family ties and friendly alliances with these people, whose manners

and language were not unlike their own. They refused to return to

Tahiti.

Cook says, "We may find in this incident a better explanation of the

way in which detached portions of the globe, and particularly the

islands of the Pacific, have been peopled, than in any theories;

especially in regard to those which are far from any other continent,

and at a great distance from each other."

Wateroo Island is situated in 20 degrees 1 minute south latitude, and

201 degrees 45 minutes east longitude.

The two vessels afterwards reached a neighbouring island called Wenooa,

upon which M. Gore landed to get fodder. Although the ruins of houses

and tents were seen, it was uninhabited.

On the 5th of April, Cook arrived in sight of Harvey Island, which he

had discovered during his second voyage in 1773. At that time it

appeared to him deserted. He was, therefore, astonished to see several

pirogues leave the shore and approach the ships. But the natives could

not find courage to go on board.

Their fierce appearance and noisy offers did not promise well for

their friendly intentions.

Their language was still more like that of Tahiti, than that of the

last islands they had visited.

Lieutenant King was sent in search of good anchorage, but could not

succeed in finding a suitable harbour. The natives, armed with spears

and clubs, appeared disposed to resent any attempt at landing.

Cook, in his great need of wood and water, determined to reach the

Friendly Islands. He was sure of finding refreshments for his men and

forage for his beasts there. The season was too far advanced, and the

distance between these latitudes and the pole too great to allow of

anything being attempted in the southern hemisphere.

The wind obliged him to relinquish his idea of reaching Middlebourgh

or Eoa, as he had at first intended. He therefore, directed his course

towards Palmerston Island, where he arrived on the 14th of April, and

where he found birds in abundance, scurvy grass, and cocoa-nuts. This

island was merely a collection of nine or ten islets, very slightly

raised, appearing almost like the points of reefs, belonging to one

coral bank.

The English reached Komango Island on the 28th of April, and the

natives brought them quantities of cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other

stores.

They then proceeded to Annamooka, which is also part of the Tonga, or

Friendly archipelago.

On the 6th of May, a chief of Tonga Tabou, named Finaou, visited Cook.

He called himself king of all the Friendly Islands.

"I received," says Cook, "a present from this great personage of two

fish, which were brought to me by one of his servants. I paid him a

visit after dinner. He came to meet me as soon as he saw me land. He

appeared some thirty years of age, tall and of slender form, and I

have met no countenance in these islands so European in 'type.'"

When all the provisions of this island were exhausted, Cook visited a

group of islets called Hapaee, where his reception was friendly, owing

to the orders given by Finaou, and where he procured pigs, water,

fruits, and roots. Some of the native warriors exhibited their skill

in various singular combats, with clubs and boxing.

"What most surprised us," says the narrative, "was to see two great

women enter the lists, and attack each other with their fists, without

the least ceremony, and with as much skill as the men. Their fight

lasted about half a minute, when one of them declared herself beaten.

The victorious heroine received as much applause from the assembled

multitude as is usually accorded to a man who has overcome his rival

by his skill and address."

There was no cessation of the fetes and games. A dance was executed to

the sound of two drums, or rather of two hollow trunks, by a hundred

and five performers, supported by a vocal choir. Cook reciprocated

these demonstrations by putting his soldiers through their artillery

exercises, and letting off fireworks, which produced indescribable

astonishment in the minds of the natives.

Not wishing to be out-done in the attempt at display, the natives gave

a concert, and then a dance, executed by twenty women crowned with

China roses. This magnificent ballet was followed by another

performance by fifteen men. But we shall never end, if we attempt to

give an account of the wonders of this enthusiastic reception. It

justly gained for the Tonga archipelago the name of Friendly Islands.

On the 23rd, Finaou, who had represented himself as king of the entire

archipelago, came to inform Cook of his departure for the neighbouring

island of Vavaoo. He had excellent reasons for this, as he had just

heard of the arrival of the real sovereign, named Futtafaih or Poulaho.

Cook at first refused to recognize the new-comer in this character,

but he soon had irrefutable proof that the title of king belonged to

him.

Poulaho was extremely stout, which with his short height made him look

like a barrel. If rank is proportioned to size in these islands, he

was without exception the _greatest_ chief the English had met with.

Intelligent, grave, and dignified, he examined the vessel and

everything that was new to him in detail, put judicious questions, and

inquired into the motives of the arrival of these vessels. His

followers objected to his descending below decks, saying it was

"_tabu_" and that it was not allowed for any one to walk over his head.

Cook, however, promised through the interpreter Mai that no one should

be allowed to walk over his cabin, and so Poulaho dined with the

captain. He ate little and drank still less, and invited Cook to land

with him. The marks of respect lavished upon Poulaho by all the

natives, convinced Cook that he had been entertaining the real

sovereign of the archipelago.

On the 29th of May, Cook set sail on his return to Annamooka, thence

to Tonga Tabou, where a feast or "_keiva_," more magnificent than any

he had seen, was given in his honour.

"In the evening," he said, "we had the spectacle of a '_bomai_,' that

is to say, the dances of the night were performed in front of Finaou's

house. We saw twelve dances during the time. They were executed by

women, and in the midst of them we noticed the arrival of a number of

men, who formed a ring within that of the dancing women. Twenty-four

men, who executed a third, made a movement with the hands, which was

greatly applauded, and which we had not previously seen. The orchestra

was renewed once. Finaou appeared upon the scene at the head of fifty

dancers, most magnificently apparelled. His garment consisted of cloth

and a large piece of gauze, and round his neck small figures were

suspended."

[Illustration: Fete in Cook's honour at Tonga.]

Cook, after a stay of three months, thought it well to leave these

enchanting islands, he distributed a share of the cattle he had bought

at the Cape, and explained, through Mai, the way to feed them, and

their utility. Before leaving, he visited a cemetery or "Fiatooka,"

belonging to the king, composed of three good-sized houses, placed on

the edge of a sort of hill. The planks of these buildings, and the

artificial hills which supported them, were covered with pretty

movable pebbles, and flat stones, placed erect, surrounded the whole.

"One thing which we had not previously seen, was that the buildings

were open on one side, and within there were two wooden busts, roughly

carved, one at the entrance, and the other a little within. The

natives followed us to the door, but dared not pass the threshold. We

asked them the meaning of the busts: they assured us that they did not

represent any divinity, but were intended to recall two chiefs who

were buried in the 'Fiatooka.'"

Leaving Tonga Tabou on the 10th of July, Cook repaired to the small of

Eoa, where his old friend Tai-One received him cordially. The captain

learned from him that the property of the various islands in the

archipelago belonged to the chiefs of Tonga Tabou, which was known as

the land of the chiefs. Thus Poulaho had a hundred and fifty islands

under his rule. The most important are Vavao and Hamao. As for the

Viti Islands, which are comprised in this number, they were inhabited

by a warlike race, very superior in intelligence to those of the

Friendly Islands.

We can only refer to some of the many and interesting particulars

collected by the captain and the naturalist Anderson, which relate to

the gentleness and docility of the natives.

Cook could do nothing but praise the welcome accorded to him, each

time he stayed in the archipelago. But then he did not guess the

project entertained by Finaou, and the other chiefs, of assassinating

him during the nocturnal feast of Hapaee, and of seizing his vessels.

The navigators who succeeded him were not lavish in their praises, and

if we did not know his sincerity, we should be tempted to think that

the illustrious mariner gave the name of Friendly Islands to this

group satirically.

The inhabitants of Tonga Island always mourned the death of a relation,

by hitting themselves on their cheeks, and by tearing them with

whale's teeth, a custom which explains the many tumours and cicatrices

they have on the face. If their friends are dangerously ill, they

sacrifice one or two joints of their little finger, to propitiate the

divinity, and Cook did not meet with one native in ten who was not

mutilated.

The expression "tabu," he says, "which plays so great a part in the

language of this people, has a very wide significance. When they are

not allowed to touch anything they say it is tabu. They also told us

that if the king enters a house belonging to one of his subjects, the

house becomes 'tabu,' and the owner of it may not live in it any

longer."

Cook fancied he had made out their religion. Their principal god was

Kallafoutonga, and in his anger, he destroys plantations and scatters

illness and death. The religious ideas of all the islands are not

alike, but the immortality of the soul is unanimously admitted.

Although they do not offer fruit or other productions of the earth to

their divinity, they sacrifice human victims.

Cook lost sight of the Tonga Islands on the 17th of July, and the

expedition arrived in sight of an island called Tabouai by the

inhabitants, upon the 8th of August, after a series of tempestuous

winds which caused serious damage to the _Discovery_. All the

eloquence of the English failed to bring the natives on board. Nothing

would induce them to leave their boats, and they contented themselves

with inviting the strangers to visit them. But as time pressed, and

Cook had no need of provisions, he passed the island without stopping,

although it appeared to him fertile, and the natives assured him that

it abounded in pigs and fowls. Strong, tall, and active, the natives

had a hardy and savage appearance. They spoke the Tahitan language,

which made intercourse with them easy.

Some days later, the verdant summits of Tahiti appeared on the horizon,

and the two vessels were not slow in stopping opposite the peninsula

of Tairabon, where the welcome Mai received from his compatriots was

as indifferent as possible. His brother-in-law, chief Outi, would

scarcely consent to recognize him, but when Mai showed him the

treasures he brought back, amongst them all the famous red feathers,

which had been so successful in Cook's last voyage, Oati changed his

demeanour, treated Mai affably, and proposed to change names with him.

Mai was overcome by these demonstrations of tenderness, and, but for

Cook's interference, would have been robbed of all his treasures.

The ships were well supplied with red feathers. Therefore fruits, pigs,

and fowls appeared in great abundance during the stay in port. Cook,

however, soon proceeded to Matavai Bay, where King Otoo left his

residence at Pane, to pay his old friend a visit. Mai was disdainfully

received by his friends there also, and although he threw himself at

the king's feet, when he presented him with a tuft of red feathers,

and three pieces of gold cloth, he was scarcely noticed. But as at

Taqabou, the treatment changed suddenly upon the discovery of Mai's

fortune, but he being only happy in the company of vagabonds, who

laughed at him good-naturedly, even while they robbed him, was unable

to acquire the influence over Otoo, and the principle chiefs, which

was necessary to the development of civilization.

Cook had long heard that human sacrifices were common in Tahiti, but

he had always refused to believe it. A solemn ceremonial which he saw

at Atahour, no longer allowed him to doubt the existence of the

practice. In order to gain the favourable assistance of the Atoua or

Godon in an expedition against the island of Eimeo, a man of the

lowest social rank was killed by blows with clubs in the king's

presence. As an offering the hair and one eye of the victim was placed

before the king; last signs of the cannibalism which formerly existed

in this archipelago. At the end of this barbarous ceremony, which was

a blot in the memoirs of so peaceable a people, a king-fisher alighted

in the foliage. "It is Atoua!" cried Otoo, delighted at the happy

augury.

[Illustration: Human sacrifice at Tahiti. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

Next day the ceremony was to be continued by a holocaust of pigs. The

priests, like the Roman augurs, sought to read the history of the

expedition in the dying struggles of the victims.

Cook, who had silently assisted at the ceremony, could not conceal the

horror with which it inspired him. Mai interpreted for him, eloquently

and forcibly. Towha could scarcely contain his anger.

"If the king had killed a man in England," said Mai, "as he has done

the unhappy and innocent victim he has offered to his gods, it would

have been impossible to save him from hanging, a punishment reserved

for murderers and assassins." Mai's severe reflection was a little out

of place, Cook should have remembered that manners vary with countries.

It is absurd to attempt to apply to Tahiti, as punishment for that

which is their custom, a punishment reserved in London for what is

considered a crime. "Every man's house is his castle," says a popular

proverb, which European nations have too often forgotten. Under the

pretext of civilization, they have often shed more blood than would

have flowed if they had not interfered.

Before he left Tahiti, Cook bestowed all the animals he had had so

much difficulty in bringing from Europe upon Otoo. They were geese,

ducks, turkeys, goats, sheep, horses, and cattle. Otoo was at a loss

to express his gratitude to the "Areeke no Pretonne," (King of

Britain) especially when he found that the English could not take a

large pirogue on board which he had constructed as an offering for his

friend the King of England, it being too large.

The _Resolution_ and the _Discovery_ left Tahiti on the 30th of

September, and anchored at Eimeo.

In this place their stay was marked by a painful incident. Frequent

thefts had occurred for several days, when a goat was stolen. To make

an example, Cook burnt five or six cabins, and set fire to a large

number of pirogues, threatening the king with his anger if the animal

were not immediately produced. As soon as he had obtained satisfaction

the captain started for Huaheine with Mai who was to settle on that

island.

A sufficiently large space of land was ceded by the chiefs of the

Ouare settlement in return for such presents. Upon this Cook had a

house built, and planted a garden, where he planted European cabbages.

Mai was left with two houses, two goats, and fowls. At the same time

he was presented with a present of a coat of mail, of a complete set

of armour, powder, balls, and guns. A portable organ, an electrical

machine, fireworks, and domestic and agricultural implements completed

the collection of useful and ornamental presents intended to give the

Tahitans an idea of European civilization. Mai had a sister married at

Huaheine, but her husband occupied too humble a position for him to

attempt to despoil him. Cook then solemnly declared that the native

was his friend, and that in a short time he should return to ascertain

how he had been treated, and that he should severely punish those who

had acted badly to him.

His threats were likely to be effective, as a few days earlier, some

robbers, caught in the act by the English, had had their heads shaved

and their ears cut. A little later at Raiatea, in order to force the

natives to send back some deserters, Cook had carried off the entire

family of the chief Oreo on one rope.

The moderation exhibited by the captain in his first voyage,

constantly diminished; every day he became more severe and exacting.

This change in his conduct was fatal to him.

The two Zealanders who had asked to accompany Mai were landed with him.

The elder readily consented to live at Huaheine, but the younger

conceived such an affection for the English, that it was necessary to

use force, as it were, to land him, amid the most touching

demonstrations of affection. At the last moment as anchor was weighed

Cook bid farewell to Mai, whose expression and tears testified to his

comprehension of all he was to lose.

Although Cook left satisfied with having loaded the young Tahitan who

had trusted himself to him with benefits, he was also full of anxious

fears as to his future. He knew his light and inconstant character,

and he left him weapons with some regret, fearing that he might make a

bad use of them. The King of Huaheine gave Mai his daughter in

marriage and changed his name to Paori, by which he was afterwards

known. Mai profited by his high station to show his cruelty and

inhumanity. Always armed, he began to try his skill with pistol and

gun upon his fellow-countrymen. His memory therefore is hated in

Huaheine, and the memory of his crimes was for a long time associated

with that of the English.

Cook visited Raiatea before leaving the island. He found his friend

Oree deprived of supreme authority. Then he went to Bolabole on the

8th of December, and bought of the King Pouni an anchor, which

Bougainville had lost in the roadstead.

During his long sojourns in the different islands of the Society

archipelago, Cook completed his geographical, hydrographical, and

ethnological investigations, as well as his studies of natural history.

In this difficult task he was seconded by Anderson, and by his entire

staff, who invariably showed the greatest zeal in their efforts for

the advancement of science.

[Illustration: Tree, from beneath which Cook observed the transit of

Venus. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]

On the 24th of December Cook discovered another low island. It was

uninhabited and the crew obtained abundance of turtle there. It was

named Christmas Island, in honour of the solemn anniversary of the

morrow.

Although seventeen months had passed since he left England, Cook

considered his voyage as only begun. Indeed he had not as yet been

able to put the part of his instructions relating to the exploration

of the Southern Atlantic and the search for a north passage, into

execution.

[Illustration: Captain Cook's chart of Otaheite.]

II.

Discovery of the Sandwich Islands--Exploration of the Western shore of

America--From thence to Behring Straits--Return to the Hawain Group--

History of Rono--Death of Cook--Return of the Expedition to England.

On the 18th of January, 1778, in longitude 160 degrees and latitude 20

degrees north, the two vessels perceived the first islands of the

Sandwich or Hawain archipelago.

It did not take long to convince the navigators that they were

inhabited. A large number of pirogues left Atooi or Tavai Island and

surrounded the ships.

The English were not a little surprised at hearing these natives speak

in the Tahitan language. On this account the intercourse between them

was soon friendly, and next day numbers of the islanders agreed to go

on board. They showed their astonishment and admiration, at the sight

of so many unknown objects, by their looks, gestures, and continual

exclamations. Iron they were acquainted with, and called "hamaite."

But their covetousness was soon excited by so many curiosities and

precious things, and they tried to appropriate them both by honest and

by illicit means.

Their cleverness and their taste for thieving was as keen as is usual

with the natives of the southern seas. It was necessary to take a

thousand precautions, and they were often taken in vain, to guard

against their larceny. The English, when they approached the shore,

under charge of Lieutenant Williamson, to sound and search for

anchorage, were forced to repulse the attempts of the natives by force.

The death of one of them repressed their turbulence in a measure, and

gave them an exalted opinion of the strength of the new arrivals.

As soon, however, as the _Resolution_ and _Discovery_ had cast anchor

in Ouai Mea Bay, Cook had himself taken on shore. He had scarcely

touched land, when the natives assembled in a crowd upon the strand,

prostrated themselves at his feet, and welcomed him with signs of the

most profound respect.

[Illustration: Cook's reception by the natives.]

This extraordinary reception gave promise of a pleasant stay, for

provisions appeared to be abundant; fruits, pigs, fowls, began to

arrive from all parts. At the same time a party of natives assisted

the English sailors in filling the casks with water, and in carrying

them on board.

Anderson and the draughtsman Weller were encouraged by this friendly

conduct to advance into the interior. They were not long in coming

upon a _morai_, similar in every respect to the Tahitian _morais_.

This discovery confirmed the English in the ideas induced by the

similarity of the language with that of Tahiti. An engraving in Cook's

narrative represents the interior of this _morai_. In it two figures

may be seen, standing, the top of the heads disappearing in high

cylindrical hats, similar to those on the statues in Easter Island. In

any case, the singular resemblance gives rise to reflection.

Cook remained two days more in this anchorage and could only extol the

traffic with the natives. He then explored the neighbouring Island of

Oneeheow. In spite of his great wish to explore this interesting

archipelago, he set sail, and from a distance perceived Ouahou Island,

and the reef of Tahoora which he designated by the general appellation

of Sandwich Archipelago. This name has been superseded by the native

appellation of Hawai. Strong and vigorous, although of medium height,

the Hawaians are represented by Anderson as being of frank and loyal

character. Not so serious as the natives of the Friendly Isles, they

are less frivolous than the Tahitans.

Clever, industrious, and intelligent, their plantations showed a

knowledge of rural economy, and an extensive taste for agriculture.

They not only abstained from showing the childish and common curiosity

which the English had so often noticed, but they inquired into their

customs and evinced a certain regret for their own inferiority.

The population appeared considerable, and was estimated at 30,000 in

Tavai Island alone. In their style of dress, their choice of food,

their manner of preparing it, and their general habits, they conform

to the customs of Tahiti. This identity of two populations separated

by a large stretch of sea gave the English much food for reflection.

During his first stay Cook did not become acquainted with any chief,

but Captain Clerke, of the _Discovery_, at last received a visit from

one. He was a young and well-made man, wrapped up from head to foot.

The natives testified their respect by kneeling before him. Clerke

made him several presents, and in return received a vase decorated

with two small figures, fairly well sculptured, which served for the

"kava," a favourite drink of the Hawaians, as well as the natives of

Tonga. Their weapons comprise bows, clubs, and lances, the latter made

of a strong and durable wood, and a sort of poignard called "paphoa,"

terminating in a point at both ends. The custom of "tabu" was just as

universally practised as in the Friendly Islands, and the natives were

always careful to ask if things were "tabu" before they touched them.

On the 27th of February, Cook continued his course to the north, and

soon fell in with the sea wrack of the rocks mentioned by the narrator

of Lord Anson's voyage. On the 1st of March he steered for the east,

in order to approach the American coast, and five days later he

recognized New Albion, so named by Francis Drake.

The expedition, coasting at a distance, surveyed Cape Blanc, already

seen by Martin d'Aguilar on the 19th of January, 1603, and near which

the geographers placed a large opening, to the strait, the discovery

of which they attributed to him. Shortly afterwards the latitude of

Juan de Fuca was reached, but nothing resembling it was discovered,

although this strait really exists, and divides the continent from

Vancouver's Island.

Cook soon reconnoitred a bay in latitude 49 degrees 15 minutes, to

which he gave the name of Hope Bay. He anchored there to obtain water,

and give a little rest to his worn-out crews. This coast was inhabited,

and three boats approached the vessels.

"One of the savages," he says, "rose up, and with many gesticulations

made a long speech, which we understood as an invitation to land. In

addition, he threw feathers towards us, and many of his companions

threw us handfuls of dust or red powder. The native who usurped the

post of orator was clothed in a skin, and in each hand he held

something which he shook, and which emitted a sound like that of a

child's rattle.

"When he was tired of haranguing and exhorting, of which we did not

understand a word, he rested, but two other men took up the speech in

succession. Their speeches were not so long, and they did not declaim

so vehemently.

"Many of the natives had their faces painted in an extraordinary way,

and feathers fixed in their heads. Although they appeared friendly, it

was impossible to persuade any of them to come on board. However, as

the vessels had cast anchor, the captain had the sails furled, took in

the topmasts, and unrigged the mizzen mast of the _Resolution_, in

order to allow of repairs. Barter with the Indians soon commenced, and

the most rigorous honesty prevailed. The objects offered were bear and

wolf skins, and those of foxes, deers, and polecats, weasels, and

especially otters, which are found in the islands east of Kamschatka.

Also clothes made of a kind of hemp, bows, lances, fish-hooks,

monstrous figures, and a kind of stuff of hair or wool, bags filled

with red ochre, bits of sculptured wood, trinkets of copper and iron

shaped like horse-shoes, which they wore hung from the nose.

"Human ears and hands, not yet free from flesh, struck us most among

the things they offered us. They made us clearly understand that they

had eaten the portions that were missing, and we indeed perceived that

these hands and ears had been on the fire."

The English were not long in ascertaining that these natives were as

habitual robbers as any they had hitherto met with. They were even

more dangerous, as, possessing iron implements, they could easily cut

the cords. They combined their thefts with intelligence, and one of

them amused the sentinel at one end of the boat, whilst another

snatched the iron from the other end. They sold a quantity of very

good oil, and a great deal of fish, especially sardines.

When the numerous repairs needed by the ships were made, and the grass

required for the few goats and sheep remaining on board had been

shipped, Cook set sail on the 26th of April, 1778.

He gave the name of King George's Sound to the spot where he had

stayed, although it was called Nootka by the natives.

The vessels had scarcely gained the open sea when a violent tempest

overtook them, during which the _Resolution_ sprung a leak on the

starboard side below the water line.

Carried away by the storm, Cook passed the spot selected by

geographers as the situation of the Strait of Admiral de Fonte, though

he greatly wished to dispel all doubt on the subject.

The captain therefore continued along the American coast, surveying

and naming the principal points. During this cruise he had constant

intercourse with the Indians, and was not slow in noticing that their

canoes had been replaced by boats, of which only the framework was

wood, and over which were spread seal-skins.

[Illustration: Prince William's Sound.]

After a stay at Prince William's Sound, where the leak of the

_Resolution_ was repaired, Cook resumed his voyage, reconnoitred and

named Elizabeth and Saint Hermogene Capes, Bank's Point, Capes Douglas

and Bede, Saint Augustine's Mount, the River Cook, Kodiak Island,

Trinity Island, and the islands called Schumagin by Behring.

Afterwards he passed Bristol Bay, Round Island, Calm Point, Newenham

Cape, where Lieutenant Williamson landed, and Anderson Island, so

called in honour of the naturalist, who died there of disease of the

chest; later, King Island, and Prince of Wales's Cape, the most

western extremity of America. Cook then passed the Asiatic coast and

entered into communication with the Tchouktchis, entered Behring

Strait on the 11th of April, and next week came in contact with ice.

He tried in vain to survey in various directions. The iceberg

presented an insuperable barrier. On the 17th of April, 1778, the

expedition was in latitude 70 degrees 41 minutes. During an entire

month he coasted the iceberg, in the hope of finding an opening which

might enable him to proceed to the north, but in vain. It was remarked

that "the ice was clear and transparent except in the upper part,

which was slightly porous."

"I supposed," says Cook, "that it was frozen snow, and it appeared to

me that it must have been formed in the open sea, both because it is

improbable, or rather impossible, that such enormous masses could

float down rivers which contain too little water for a boat, and also

because we perceived no produce of the earth, which we must have done

if it was so formed."

Up to this date the passage through Behring's Strait had been the

least used to reach the northern latitudes. Cook's observation is

valuable, as it proves that beyond this aperture a vast extent of sea

without land must exist. It may possibly be (this was the view held by

the lamented Gustave Lambert) that this sea is open. No greater

distance north has ever been attained since Cook's time, except on the

Siberian coast--where Plover and Long Islands were discovered, and

where at this moment, as we write, Professor Nordenskjold is

exploring.[1]

[Footnote 1: [On the 5th September, 1879, a telegram from Stockholm

announced that the Swedish Arctic Expedition under Professor

Nordenskjold had made the North-East Passage from Europe to Japan, and

that the Swedish exploring vessel, the _Vega_, had arrived at Yokohama

by way of Behring's Straits.]--Translator.]

After most careful exploration and repeated efforts to reach higher

latitudes, Cook, seeing that the season was advanced, and encountering

more icebergs daily, had no choice but to seek winter quarters in a

more clement country, before continuing his expedition the following

summer. He therefore retraced his route as far as Ounalaska Island,

and on the 26th of October steered towards the Sandwich Islands,

hoping to complete his survey of them during his wintering there.

An island was discovered on the 26th of November. The natives sold a

quantity of fruits, roots, bread-fruits, potatoes, "taro" and "eddy"

roots, which they exchanged for nails and iron implements. It was

Mowee Island, which forms part of the Sandwich Archipelago. Shortly

afterwards Owhyhee or Hawai was sighted, the summits of which were

covered with snow.

The captain says:--

"We never met savages so liberal as these in their views. They usually

sent the different articles they wished to sell to the ships. They

then came on board themselves, and finished their 'trade' on the

quarter-deck. The Tahitans, in spite of our constant stays there, have

not the same confidence in us. I conclude from this that the

inhabitants of Owhyhee are more accurate and true in their reciprocal

trade than those of Tahiti, for the latter have no honour among

themselves, and are thus not inclined to believe in the honour of

others."

On the 17th of January Cook and Clerke cast anchor in a bay, called by

the natives Karakakooa. The sails were unbent from the yard, the yards

and the top-mast struck. The vessels were crowded with visitors and

surrounded by pirogues, and the shore was covered by a curious

multitude. Cook had never previously seen so much excitement. Among

the chiefs who came on board the _Resolution_, a young man named

Pareea was soon remarked. He said he was "Iakanee," but it was not

known that was his title of office, or if it suggested a degree of

relationship or alliance with the king. However, he evidently had

great authority over the common people. Some presents, opportunely

given, attached him to the English, and he rendered them more than one

service.

If Cook on his first visit to Hawai pronounced that the natives were

little disposed to robbery, he was not of the same opinion this time.

Their large numbers gave them many facilities for thieving trifles,

and encouraged them to think that their larceny would not be punished.

It became evident at last that they were encouraged by their chiefs,

for several stolen objects were found in the possession of the latter.

Pareea and another chief named Kaneena brought an old man on board,

whose name was Koah. He was very thin and his body was covered with

white scurf from immoderate use of "ava." He was a priest. When he was

presented to Cook, he put a sort of red mantle which he had brought

upon his shoulders, and gravely delivered a long discourse as he gave

him a little pig. It was soon proved that it was intended as a form of

adoration, for all the idols were clothed in similar stuff. The

English were immensely astonished at the whimsical ceremonies of

homage presented to Cook. They only understood them later, through the

researches of the learned missionary Ellis. We shall give a brief

account of his interesting discovery. It will make the recital of the

events that followed plainer.

[Illustration: "They gave him a little pig."]

According to tradition, a certain Rono, who lived under one of the

ancient kings of Hawai, had killed his wife, whom he tenderly loved,

in a transport of jealousy. The grief and sorrow which followed upon

his act, drove him mad; he ran about the island, quarrelling with, and

striking everybody. At last, tired out, but not satiated, with murder,

he embarked, promising to return one day, upon a floating island,

bringing cocoa-nuts, pigs, and dogs.

This legend had been embodied in a national song, and became an

article of faith with the priests, who added Rono to their list of

deities. Confident in the fulfilment of the prediction, they awaited

his coming every year, with a patience which nothing could exhaust.

Is not there a strange resemblance between this legend and that

relating to the Mexican god Quetzalcoatl, who, forced to fly from the

wrath of a more powerful god, embarked upon a skiff of serpent skin,

promising those who accompanied him to return at some later time, and

visit the country with his descendants?

As soon as the English ships appeared, the high priest Koah and his

son One-La declared that it was Rono himself, fulfilling his

prediction. From that moment Cook was a divinity for the entire

population. As he went about, the natives prostrated themselves. The

priests made him speeches or addressed prayers to him. They would have

sprinkled him with incense had that been fashionable at Hawai. The

captain felt that there was something extraordinary in these

demonstrations, but, unable to understand it, he resigned himself for

the sake of his crew and for the advancement of science to the

mysterious circumstances he was unable to unravel.

He was obliged to give himself up to all kinds of ceremonies, which

appeared, to him at least, ridiculous. Thus he was taken to a morai, a

solid construction of stone forty roods long and fourteen high. The

summit was well built and was surrounded by a wooden balustrade, upon

which were hung the ears of the captives sacrificed to the gods. At

the opening of the platform were two large wooden figures with

grinning faces, and bodies draped in red stuff, the heads surmounted

by a large piece of sculptured wood, the shape of a reversed cone.

There Koah mounted with Cook upon a sort of table, under which lay a

rotten pig and a quantity of fruit. Some men brought a living pig in a

procession, and some scarlet cloth in which it was wrapped. The

priests then sang some religious hymns, while the assistants were

devoutly prostrated at the entrance of the morai. After various

ceremonies, which it would take too long to describe, a pig, cooked in

the oven, was presented to the captain, with fruits and the roots

which were used in the preparation of "ava."

"The ava," says Cook, "was then handed round, and when we had tasted

it, Koah and Pareea divided the flesh of the pig into several pieces,

which they placed in our mouths."

"I felt no repugnance when Pareea, who is very clean, gave me

something to eat," says Lieutenant King, "but Cook, to whom Koah

offered the same attention, could not swallow a morsel, as he thought

of the putrid pig. The old man, wishing to redouble his politeness,

tried to give him pieces already chewed, and one can easily imagine

that the disgust of our captain increased."

After this ceremony Cook was conducted to his boat, by four men

carrying sticks, who repeated the same words and phrases as at the

landing, in the midst of a kneeling host of the natives. The same

ceremonies were observed every time the captain landed. One of the

priests always walked before him, announcing that Rono had landed, and

ordering the people to prostrate themselves.

If the English had reason to feel satisfied with the priests, who

loaded them with attentions and presents, it was otherwise with the

"carees," or warriors. The latter encouraged the robberies which were

perpetrated daily, and in other ways exhibited disloyalty. Still, up

to the 24th of January, 1779, no important event occurred. Upon that

day the English were surprised to see that none of the pirogues left

the river to trade with the ships. The arrival of "Terreoboo" had made

the bay "tabu," and prevented any communication with the strangers.

Upon the same day, the chief, or rather king, went without ceremony to

the ships. He had but one pirogue, in which were his wife and children.

On the 26th, Terreoboo paid a second visit, which was official.

"Cook," says the narrative, "noticing that the prince landed, followed

him and arrived about the same time. He conducted them to the tent;

they were scarcely seated when the prince rose, and in a graceful

manner threw his mantle over the captain's shoulders. He further

placed a hat of feathers upon his head, and a curious fan in Cook's

hands, at whose feet he also spread five or six very pretty mantles of

great value."

Terreoboo and the principal chiefs of his suite asked many questions

of the English as to the time of their leaving. The captain wished to

ascertain the opinion the Hawaians had formed of the English; but he

could only learn that they supposed them to be the natives of a

country where provisions were scarce, and that they had simply come

there "to fill their stomachs." This conviction arose from the

emaciated appearance of some of the sailors, and from the desire to

ship fresh victuals.

There was no fear, however, of exhausting their provisions, in spite

of the immense quantity which had been consumed since the English

arrived. It is very likely that the king wished for time to prepare

the present he intended to offer the strangers upon their leaving; and,

accordingly, the day before the one fixed upon, the king begged

Captains Cook and Clerke to accompany him to his residence. Enormous

heaps of every kind of vegetable, parcels of stuffs, yellow and red

feathers, and a herd of pigs were collected together.

All this was a gratuitous gift to the king from his subjects.

Terreoboo chose about a third of these articles, and gave the rest to

the two captains--a more valuable present than they had ever received

either at Tonga or Tahiti.

On the 4th of February the vessels left the bay, but the damage

received by the _Resolution_ forced her to put in again in a few days.

The vessels had scarcely cast anchor before the English noticed a

change in the conduct of the natives. Still all went on peaceably

until the afternoon of the 13th. Upon that day several chiefs wished

to prevent the natives from assisting the English in filling their

casks. A tumult ensued. The natives armed themselves with stones, and

became threatening.

The officer in command of the detachment was ordered by Cook to draw

upon the natives, if they persisted in throwing stones, or became

insolent. Under these circumstances, a pirogue was fired into, and it

was soon apparent that a robbery had been committed by its crew.

At the same time a still more serious dispute arose. A sloop belonging

to Pareea was seized by an officer, who took it to the _Discovery_.

The chief hastened to claim his belongings, and to protest his

innocence. The discussion grew animated, and Pareea was overthrown by

a blow from an oar.

The natives, who had hitherto been peaceable observers, armed

themselves with stones, forced the sailors to retire precipitately,

and took possession of the pinnace which had brought them. Pareea,

forgetful of his resentment at this moment, interposed, and restored

the pinnace to the English, together with several things which had

been stolen.

"I am afraid the Indians will force me to violent measures," said Cook,

upon learning what had passed. "We must not allow them to believe that

they have gained an advantage over us."

The boat of the _Discovery_ was stolen upon the 13th or 14th of

February. The captain determined to possess himself of the person of

Terreoboo, or some others of the leading persons, and to keep them as

hostages until the stolen objects were restored to him.

He therefore landed with a detachment of marines, and pursued his way

to the king's residence. He was received with the usual marks of

respect on the road, and perceiving Terreoboo and his two sons, to

whom he said a few words on the theft of the sloop, he decided to pass

the day on board the _Resolution_.

The matter took a happy turn, and the two young princes embarked upon

the pinnace, when one of Terreoboo's wives begged him with tears not

to go on board. Two other chiefs joined her, and the natives,

frightened by the hostile preparations they saw, began to crowd round

the king and captain. The latter hurried to embark, and the prince

appeared willing to follow him, but the chiefs interposed, and used

force to prevent his doing so.

Cook, seeing that his project had failed, and that he could only put

it into execution by bloodshed, gave it up, and walked quietly along

the shore to regain his boat, when a rumour spread that one of the

principal chiefs had been killed. The women and children were

therefore sent away, and all directed their attention to the English.

A native armed with a "pahooa" defied the captain, and as he would not

cease his threats, Cook discharged his pistol. The native, protected

by a thick mat, did not feel himself wounded, and so became more

audacious. Several others advanced, and the captain discharged his gun

at the nearest and killed him. This was the signal for a general

attack.

The last that was seen of Cook was his signing to the boats to cease

firing, and to approach, that his small troop might embark. In vain!

The captain was struck and fell to the earth.

"The natives," says the narrative, "uttered cries of joy when they saw

him fall. They at once dragged his body along the shore, and taking

the poniard one after the other, they all attacked him with ferocious

blows until he ceased to breathe."

Thus perished this great navigator, assuredly the most illustrious

produced by England. The boldness of his undertakings, his

perseverance in carrying them out, and the extent of his knowledge,

all made him a type of the true sailor of discovery.

[Illustration: Itinerary of the principal voyagers during the 18th

century, after Cook. _Grave par E. Morieu_. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

What immense service he has rendered to geography! In his first voyage

he reconnoitred the Society Islands, proved that New Zealand is formed

of two islands, explored the strait that separates them, and surveyed

its coast, and lastly he visited the entire eastern coast of New

Holland.

In his second voyage he proved the chimerical character of the

long-talked-of Antarctic continent, the dream of stay-at-home

geographers. He discovered New Caledonia, Southern Georgia, the

Sandwich Islands, and penetrated farther into the southern hemisphere

than any one had done before him.

In his third expedition he discovered the Hawaian archipelago, and

surveyed the eastern coast of America, to the forty-third degree, that

is to say, an extent of 3500 miles. He passed through Behring Straits,

and ventured into the Arctic Sea, which was the horror of navigators,

until the icebergs opposed an impenetrable barrier to his progress.

It is needless to praise his qualities as a seaman; his hydrographical

works remain, but above all his careful treatment of his crews

deserves to be remembered. To it was due their ability to bear the

long and trying voyages, which he made with so little loss of life.

After this fatal day the English folded their tents and returned on

board. Their offers for the recovery of the body of their unfortunate

captain were in vain. In their anger they were about to have recourse

to arms, when two priests, friends of Lieutenant King, brought a piece

of human flesh at the instance of the other chiefs, which weighed from

nine to ten pounds. It was all, they said, that remained of Rono's

body, which had been burnt according to custom. This sight of course

made the English still more anxious for reprisals, and the natives on

their side had to avenge the death of five chiefs and a score of men.

Every time the English landed at their watering place they found a

furious crowd armed with stones and sticks. In order to make an

example, Captain Clerke, who had taken the command of the expedition,

set fire to the abodes of the priests, and massacred those who opposed

them.

On the 19th of February, however, an interview was arranged, and the

remains of Cook, his hands, recognizable by a large scar, his head,

stripped of flesh, and various other debris, were made over to the

English, who three days later paid them the last honours.

After that, barter was resumed as if nothing had happened, and no

other incident occurred during the remainder of the stay in the

Sandwich Islands.

Captain Clerke had relinquished the command of the _Discovery_ to

Lieutenant Gore, and hoisted his flag upon the _Resolution_. After

completing the survey of the Hawaian Islands, he set sail for the

north, touched at Kamschatka, where the Russians made him heartily

welcome, passed through Behring Strait, and advanced as far as

latitude 69 degrees 50 minutes north, where his further progress was

barred by icebergs.

On the 22nd of April, 1779, Captain Clerke died of pulmonary phthisis,

aged thirty-eight.

Captain Gore then assumed the command in chief, put in again at

Kamschatka, again at Canton, and at the Cape of Good Hope, and

anchored in the Thames on the 1st of October, 1780, after more than

four years' absence.

The death of Captain Cook caused a general mourning throughout England.

The Royal Society of London, of which he was a member, struck a medal

in his honour, the cost of which was covered by public subscription,

to which persons of the highest rank subscribed.

The Admiralty petitioned the king to provide for the family of the

deceased captain. The king granted a pension of 200_l_. to his widow,

and 25_l_. to each of his three sons. The charts and drawings relating

to his last voyage were engraved at the expense of the government, and

the proceeds of their sale divided among Cook's family, and the heirs

of Captain Clerke and Captain King.

Although the family of the great navigator is extinct, a proof of the

esteem in which his memory is held was given in the solemn meeting of

the French Geographical Society on the 4th of February, 1879.

A large number assembled to celebrate the centenary of Cook's death.

Amongst them were many representatives of the Australian colonies,

which are now so flourishing, and of the Hawaian Archipelago, where he

met his death. A quantity of relics belonging to the great navigator,

his charts, Webber's magnificent water-colours, and the instruments

and weapons of the Oceanic islanders decorated the walls.

This touching homage, after the lapse of a hundred years, was accorded

by a people whose king had bidden them not to thwart Cook's scientific

and civilizing mission, and was well calculated to awake an echo in

England, and to draw yet closer the bonds of that good fellowship

which exists between England and France.

END OF THE FIRST PART.

PART II.

[_Frontispiece of 2nd Part._: Death of Captain Cook.]

CHAPTER I.

FRENCH NAVIGATORS.

I.

Discoveries made by Bouvet de Lozier in the Southern Seas--Surville--

The land of the Arsacides--Incident during the stay at Port Praslin--

Arrival upon the coast of New Zealand--Death of Surville--Marion's

discoveries in the Antarctic Ocean--He is murdered at New Zealand--

Kerguelen in Iceland and the Antarctic regions--The contest between

the watches--Fleurien and Verdun de la Crenne.

In the earlier half of the eighteenth century, a discovery had been

made which was destined to exercise a favourable influence upon the

progress of geographical science. Jean Baptiste Charles Bouvet de

Lozier, a captain of one of the East India Company's ships, was so

struck by the immensity of the space surrounding the Southern Pole,

known to geographers as the _Terra australis incognita_, that he

begged for the privilege of prosecuting discoveries in these unknown

regions. His importunities were long disregarded, but at length, in

1738, the Company consented, in the hope of opening new facilities for

trade.

Two small frigates, the _Aigle_ and the _Marie_, fully equipped, left

Brest upon the 19th of July, 1738, under command of Bouvet de Lozier.

After a stay of a month at St. Catherine's Island, upon the coast of

Brazil, they put to sea again upon the 13th of November, and steered

for the south-east.

On the 26th, heavy fog set in, so that the vessels could only keep in

company by constant firing, and were obliged to tack about continually,

at the risk of running foul of each other. Upon the 5th of December,

although it would have appeared impossible, the fog increased in

density to such an extent that those on board the _Aigle_ could hear

the movement of the _Marie_, though they could not see her. The sea

was covered with kelp, and sea-gulls, never found at a distance from

land, were shortly afterwards seen.

"Upon the 15th of December," says M. Favre, in his Memoir the Bouvets,

in 48 degrees 50 minutes S. lat. (Paris is in N. lat. 48 degrees 50

minutes) and in 7 degrees W. long. (the meridian of Teneriffe), an

enormous iceberg was perceived towards five or six in the morning;

shortly afterwards many others were seen, surrounded by ice-floes of

various sizes.

The _Marie_, signalling danger, tacked about, but Bouvet, annoyed by

this action, which was likely to affect the confidence of the crews,

crowded sail on the _Aigle_, and, by passing the _Marie_, showed his

determination to maintain his southern course. To reassure his men, he

asserted that it was considered a lucky omen to meet with ice, as it

was a certain indication of land at hand.

The course was continued to the south, and Bouvet's perseverance was

soon rewarded by the appearance of land, to which he gave the name of

Cape Circumcision. It was steep, covered with snow, and so shut in by

large icebergs, that it was impossible to approach to within seven or

eight leagues. It appeared to measure from four to five leagues from

north to south.

"This land was supposed," says M. Favre, judging from Pietergos'

charts, which were used by Bouvet, "to be situated in 54 degrees S.

lat. and 26 degrees and 27 degrees east of the meridian of Teneriffe,

or between 5 degrees 30 minutes and 6 degrees 3 minutes east of that

of Paris."

Bouvet would much have liked to make closer acquaintance with this

region, but the fogs and contrary winds prevented his reaching it, and

he was obliged to satisfy himself with observing it from a distance.

"Upon the 3rd of January, 1739," says Bouvet, in his report to the

Company, "we made up for what we had lost during the preceding days,

and about four in the afternoon, the fog clearing somewhat, we

distinctly saw land. The coast, broken throughout its entire length,

formed several bays. The summits of the mountains were covered with

snow; the sides appeared wooded."

After several fruitless attempts to near the coast, Bouvet was forced

to relinquish the idea. His sailors were worn out with fatigue,

discouraged, and enfeebled by scurvy. The _Marie_ was sent to the Isle

of France, and the _Aigle_ directed her course to the Cape of Good

Hope, which she reached upon the 28th of February.

"We had penetrated," says Bouvet, in the report already cited, "twelve

or fifteen hundred leagues into an unknown sea. For seventy days we

had encountered almost continuous fog. We had been for forty days in

the midst of ice, and we had had snow and hail almost every day.

Several times our decks and rigging were covered with them. Our

shrouds and sails were frozen. On the 10th of January, it was

impossible to work our fore-topsail. The cold was severe, for men

accustomed to a warm climate, and who were lightly clad. Many had

chilblains on the hands and feet. Still they were forced constantly to

tack about, bring to, get under weigh, and take soundings at least

once a day. One of the sailors belonging to the _Aigle_, having been

sent to loosen the fore-topsail, became frozen in the fore-top. He had

to be lowered by a whip, and circulation was with difficulty restored.

I have seen others with tears gushing from their eyes as they handled

the sounding-line. And all this was in the fine season, and I

ameliorated their condition by every means in my power."

We can readily understand that such small results did not tempt the

East India Company to continue their efforts in these latitudes. If

they were productive of no good, they cost heavily in the loss of men

and ships they entailed. Still Bouvet's discovery was a first blow to

the existing belief in an Antarctic continent. He gave the start, and

various navigators, amongst them two Frenchmen, followed it up.

In our short record of this expedition, which is scarcely known, we

have testified to an appreciation of our countryman, who was the

pioneer of Antarctic navigation, and who deserves the credit of

furnishing an example to the great English explorer, James Cook.

Another of the East India Company's captains, who had distinguished

himself in various battles against the English, Jean Francois Marie de

Surville, was destined to make important discoveries in Oceania some

thirty years later, and to re-discover, almost simultaneously with

Cook, the lands first seen by Tasman, and which he called Staten

Island. The following is an account of the circumstances.

Messrs. Law and Chevalier, governors in French India, determined to

send a vessel at their own risk to trade in the southern seas. They

admitted Surville to their schemes, and sent him to France to obtain

the needful authority from the Company, and to superintend the

equipment of the vessel.

The _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was made ready for sea at Nantes, and

provisioned for three years, with every requisite for a distant

expedition. Surville then reached India, where Law provided him with

twenty-four native soldiers.

Leaving Angley Bay on the 3rd of March, 1769, the _Saint-Jean

Baptiste_ put in successively at Masulipatam, Yanaon, and Pondicherry,

where her equipment was completed.

Surville left the last-named port on the 2nd of June, and steered his

course for the Philippines. On the 20th of August, he cast anchor off

the Bashees, or Baschy Islands. Dampier had so named them after an

intoxicating drink, which the natives compounded from the juice of the

sugar-cane, into which they infused a certain black seed.

Several of Dampier's crew had formerly deserted in these islands; they

had received from the natives a field, agricultural instruments, and

wives. The recollection of this fact incited three of the sailors

belonging to the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ to follow their example. But

Surville was not the man to allow his crew to melt away in such a

manner. He seized twenty-six Indians, and signified his intention of

keeping them as hostages until his men were brought back to him.

"Among the Indians thus seized," says Crozet, in his narrative of

Surville's voyage, "there were several courageous enough to throw

themselves into the sea, and, much to the surprise of the crew, they

had sufficient courage and skill to swim to one of their pirogues,

which was far enough from the vessel to be secure from danger."

Pains were taken to make the savages understand that they had been

treated in this way in order to make their comrades bring back the

three deserters. They made signs that they understood, and were then

released, with the exception of six, who had been taken on shore. The

haste with which they left the ship, and flung themselves into their

pirogues, augured badly for their return. Much surprise was therefore

felt when in a short time they were seen returning with joyful

acclamations. Doubt was no longer possible, they could only be

bringing the deserters back to the commander. They came on board, and

proceeded to deposit on deck--what?--three magnificent pigs, tied and

bound. Surville did not appreciate, and he objurgated the natives so

fiercely, that they jumped into their pirogues, and disappeared.

Twenty-four hours later the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ left the Bashees,

taking three captive Indians to replace the deserters.

[Illustration: Map of Surville's discoveries, after Fleurieu.]

Upon the 7th of October, after a lengthened route to the south-east,

land, to which the name of "Premiere Vue" was given, was sighted in 6

degrees 56 minutes S. lat., and 157 degrees 30 minutes long. east of

Paris.

The explorers coasted along it until the 13th October, upon which day

an excellent port was discovered, sheltered from every wind, and

formed by a number of small islands. M. de Surville cast anchor and

named it Port Praslin. It is situated in 7 degrees 25 minutes S. lat.

and 151 degrees 55 minutes E. long. reckoning from the Paris meridian.

Upon entering this port, the French saw several Indians, armed with

spears, and carrying a sort of shield. The _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was

very soon surrounded by pirogues, manned by a crowd of Indians, who

were profuse in menacing gestures. However, they were pacified at last.

About thirty of the boldest clambered on to the deck, and examined

everything they saw with close attention. It soon became needful to

check their advances, as there were many sick among the crew, and it

was unwise to allow too many natives on board.

[Illustration: Pirogues of the Admiralty Islands. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

In spite of the welcome they received, the natives were still doubtful,

and their looks expressed distrust. The slightest movement on board

the vessel was sufficient to make them jump into their pirogues, or

the sea. One only showed a little more confidence, and Surville gave

him several presents. The Indian acknowledged the attention, by saying

he could point out a spot where good water was to be had.

The captain gave orders to arm the boats, and entrusted the command to

his lieutenant Labbe.

"The savages appeared impatient for the departure of the boats from

the ship," says Fleurien, in his "Decouvertes des Francais," "and they

were no sooner lowered than they were followed by all the pirogues.

One of these appeared to lead the others; in it was the Indian who had

offered his services to Surville. At the back of the pirogue, a man

stood erect, holding in his hands a bunch of herbs, raising them above

his head, with a rhythmical movement. In the centre of the same

pirogue stood a young man, resting upon a spear, who gravely watched

all that went on. Red flowers were in his ears, and passed through the

cartilage of his nose, and his hair was powdered with white lime."

Certain trifling symptoms aroused the suspicions of the French, who

soon found themselves in a cul-de-sac, where the natives persisted in

declaring that fresh water was to be found. Labbe, in spite of all the

persuasions of the natives, did not wish to imperil his boats in two

or three feet of water, with a muddy bottom, and therefore allowed

only a corporal and four soldiers to disembark. They soon returned,

asserting that they had seen on all sides nothing but marsh, in which

the men would sink to the waist.

It was evident that the natives had meditated treason. Labbe took good

care not to let them suspect that he had detected their design, and

asked them to point out a spring.

The natives then led the boats some three leagues away, to a spot from

whence it was impossible to see the ship. The corporal was again sent

forward with some men, but he found only a very poor spring, barely

affording sufficient water to slake the thirst of his party. During

his absence, the natives did all in their power to induce Labbe to

land, pointing out to him the abundant cocoa-nut and other fruit trees,

and even attempting to possess themselves of the boat-hook.

"More than two hundred and fifty of these natives," says the narrative,

"armed with spears, from seven to eight feet long, with swords, or

wooden clubs, arrows and stones, and some carrying shields, were

assembled on the shore, observing the movements of the boats. When the

detachment, consisting of five men, proceeded to re-embark, the

natives fell upon them, wounding one soldier with a blow from a club,

the corporal with a spear, and many others in different ways. M. Labbe

himself was hit by two arrows in the thigh, and on the leg by a stone.

The traitors were fired upon. The first volley so astonished them that

they remained motionless. It was the more fatal, as, being fired only

three or five fathoms from the boats, every shot took effect. The

amazement of the natives gave the opportunity for a second discharge,

which completely routed them, the death of their chief greatly

hastening their flight. M. Labbe, who had recognized him, apart from

the others, with his hands raised to heaven, striking his breast, and

encouraging the assailants by his voice, aimed at him and shot him

dead. The natives carried off their wounded, leaving thirty or forty

dead upon the field of battle. It was then possible to land, and,

picking up such of the enemy's weapons as were scattered about, the

victors contented themselves with towing away one of their pirogues

and destroying the others."

[Illustration: "Picking up the enemies' weapons."]

Surville was extremely anxious to capture an Indian, who might serve

him as a guide, and who, convinced of the superiority of European

weapons, might warn his countrymen against opposing the French. With

this view, he hit upon a singular expedient. He ordered two negro

sailors to be placed on board the pirogue he had seized, had their

heads powdered, and disguised them so cleverly that the natives were

likely to be deceived.

In fact, a pirogue soon after approaching the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_,

the men who were in it, seeing what they took to be two of their own

people trafficking with the strangers, drew nearer. So soon as the

French imagined they were at a fair distance, they launched two boats

in pursuit. The natives gained ground; it was then decided to fire, in

order to stop them. One of the natives was killed at once, and, his

boat capsizing, he fell into the sea, and the other, who was only

fourteen or fifteen years of age, endeavoured to reach the shore by

swimming.

"He defended himself most courageously," says the narrative,

"sometimes making believe to bite himself, but really biting those who

held him. His hands and feet were tied, and he was taken on board. He

counterfeited death for an hour, but when he was made to sit up, and

he fell back on deck, he took good care to fall on his shoulders

instead of his head. When he was tired of playing this game he opened

his eyes, and, seeing that the crew were eating, he asked for a

biscuit, ate it with a good appetite, and made many expressive signs.

He was bound securely, so that he might not throw himself overboard."

During the night, it was necessary to resort to firing, to disperse

the pirogues, which approached with a view to surprising the ship.

Next day, the native was taken in a boat to a small islet, since

called Aiguade Island. Scarcely had he landed when it was perceived

that he had almost cut through the ropes with a sharp shell.

The young savage was taken by a different route to the shore; when he

perceived that he was to re-embark, he rolled upon the ground,

shrieking, and biting the sand in his fury.

The sailors succeeded at last in finding an abundant spring, and

plenty of wood. One of the trees they cut appeared to have dyeing

properties, for it tinged the sea with red. Some of the bark was

boiled, and pieces of cotton steeped in the decoction turned deep red.

Welcome refreshment was afforded to the crew by the palm cabbages,

good oysters, and various shell-fish which abounded. There were indeed

many sufferers from scurvy on board the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_.

Surville had looked forward to this stay to cure them, but the rain,

which fell ceaselessly for six days, aggravated their complaint to

such a degree that three of them died before they left the anchorage.

This port was named Praslin, and the large island or archipelago, to

which it belonged, Arsacides, in reference to the deceitful nature of

its inhabitants.

"Port Praslin," says Fleurien, "would be one of the finest ports in

the world, if the bottom were better. It is of circular shape,

reckoning all the islands discovered from the spot where the

_Saint-Jean Baptiste_ cast anchor. The ferocity of the people

inhabiting the islands of Port Praslin was such that it was impossible

to penetrate into the interior, and it was only possible to examine

the sea-coast. We perceived no cultivated ground, either in the trip

we made to the further end of the port, nor upon Aiguade Island, which

was explored throughout."

Such are the superficial particulars which Surville and his crew were

able to collect. Fortunately, they were supplemented by those

furnished by the captive native, whose name was Lova-Salega, and who

possessed a great faculty for learning languages.

According to his account, the island produced palms, cocoa-nut trees,

various almond trees, wild coffee, the ebony tree, the tacamahac, as

well as numerous resinous or gum trees, the banana, sugar-cane, yams,

aniseed, and lastly a plant called "Binao," which is used by the

natives as bread. Cockatoos, wood pigeons, lories, and black-birds,

somewhat larger than those of Europe, abounded in the woods. In the

marshes the curlew, sea lark, a species of snipe, and ducks were to be

found. The only quadrupeds the country produced were goats and

half-wild pigs.

"The natives of Port Praslin," says Fleurien, quoting from the

manuscripts in his possession, "are of ordinary height, but strong and

muscular. They do not appear to be all of one origin (a valuable

remark), for some are perfectly black, whilst others are

copper-coloured. The former have woolly hair, which is very soft to

the touch, their foreheads are small, their eyes slightly sunken,

whilst the lower part of their face is pointed, and adorned with a

small beard; their expression is fierce. Some of the copper-coloured

natives have smooth hair. They usually cut it round the head as high

as the ear. A few only retain a little, shaped like a cap, on the top

of the head, shaving off the remainder with a sharp stone, and leaving

only a circular fringe about an inch deep at the bottom. Their hair

and eyebrows are powdered with lime, which gives them a yellowish hue.

"Both men and women are stark naked; but it must be allowed that their

nudity is not so startling as would be that of an European without

clothes, for the faces, arms, and generally every part of their bodies

are tattooed. Sometimes the taste of these designs is really wonderful.

They pierce their ears and the cartilage of their nose, and the

nostrils often hang down, from the weight of the ornaments, to the

upper lip."

The commonest ornament worn by the natives of Port Praslin is a

necklace made of men's teeth. It was at once concluded that they were

cannibals, although the same customs had been met with among people

who were not. Lova's confused replies, and the half-broiled head of a

man, found by Bougainville in a pirogue in Choiseul Island, placed the

existence of this barbarous practice beyond the possibility of doubt.

On the 21st of October, after nine days' rest, the _Saint-Jean

Baptiste_ left Port Praslin.

On the next and ensuing days, lofty and mountainous land was

constantly in sight. Upon the 2nd of November Surville descried an

island, which received the name of Contrarietes, from the contrary

winds which for three days checked the progress of the ship.

This island presented a delightful appearance. It was well cultivated,

and, judging from the number of pirogues, which constantly surrounded

the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, it must have been well populated.

The natives could scarcely be persuaded to go on board. At last a

chief sprang on deck. His first act was to possess himself of a

sailor's clothes. He next visited the poop and took the white flag,

which he wished to appropriate. It was only after some difficulty that

he was dissuaded from the attempt. Lastly, he climbed up the mizen

mast, and from that elevated position observed all parts of the vessel.

Then, coming down, he began to jump about, and, addressing himself to

those he had left in the canoes, he invited them, by words and

gestures, to join him on deck.

About a dozen ventured. They resembled the natives of Port Praslin,

but they spoke a different language, and could not make themselves

understood by Lova-Salega. Their stay on board did not last long, for

one of them having possessed himself of a bottle and thrown it into

the sea, the captain showed some annoyance, which induced them to

return to their pirogues.

The land appeared so inviting, and the sufferers from scurvy were in

such pressing need of green provisions, that Surville determined to

send a boat to test the disposition of the natives.

It had no sooner left the vessel than it was surrounded by pirogues,

manned by a number of warriors. Hostilities were imminent, but a few

shots dispersed the assailants. During the night a flotilla advanced

towards the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, and Surville, from motives of

humanity, did not wait until the natives were close, but at once fired

several pieces charged with grape shot, which put them to flight.

It was useless to think of landing, and Surville regained the open sea.

He discovered successively the Three Sisters Island, and Gulf and

Deliverance Islands, the last of the group.

The archipelago, just explored by Surville, was no other than that of

the Solomon Islands, which, as we have mentioned, was discovered in

the first instance by Mendana. That skilful navigator had traced and

surveyed a hundred and forty leagues, besides drawing a series of

fourteen very curious views of this sea coast.

If Surville's crew were not to be decimated by death, it was necessary

at all risks to reach land, where he might disembark the sick, and

procure fresh provisions for them.

He resolved to steer for New Zealand, which had not been visited since

the time of Tasman.

On the 12th of December, 1769, Surville descried land in 35 degrees 37

minutes S. lat., and five days later he cast anchor in a bay which he

called Lauriston. At the extremity was a creek which received the name

of Chevalier. Cook had been in search of this land since the beginning

of October, and was fated to pass by Lauriston Bay a few days later

without observing the French vessel.

Whilst anchored in Chevalier Creek, Surville was overtaken by a

frightful tempest, which brought him within an ace of destruction, but

his sailors had such confidence in his nautical ability that they felt

no anxiety, and obeyed his orders with a _sang froid_ of which,

unfortunately, the Maoris were the sole spectators.

The sloop which was conveying the sick to land had no time to reach

the shore, before the storm broke in all its fury, and she was driven

into Refuge Creek. The sailors and invalids were cordially welcomed by

a chief called Naginoui, who received them into his cabin, and

bestowed upon them all the green provisions which he could procure

during their stay.

One of the boats which was towed behind the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_ was

carried away by the waves. Surville saw it stranded in Refuge Creek.

He sent in search of it, but only the rudder was found. The natives

had carried it off. The river was searched in vain; there was no trace

of the boat. Surville would not allow this theft to go unpunished. He

made signs to some Indians who were near their pirogues to approach

him. One of them ran to him at once, and was immediately seized and

carried on board. The others fled.

"He seized one pirogue," says Crozet, "and burnt the other; set fire

to the huts and returned to the ship. The Indian who was taken was

recognized by the surgeon as the chief who had so generously assisted

them during the storm. It was the unfortunate Naginoui, who, after the

services he had rendered the whites, could hardly have anticipated

such treatment at their hands, when he obeyed Surville's signal."

He died on the 24th of March, 1770, near the island of Juan Fernandez.

We will pass over the observations made by the French navigator upon

the natives, and the productions of New Zealand, as they are merely a

repetition of those of Captain Cook.

Surville, convinced that he could not obtain the provisions he needed,

put to sea a few days later, and steered between the parallels of 27

degrees and 28 degrees S. lat.; but the ravages of the scurvy, which

increased daily, decided him on steering for the coast of Peru without

delay.

He sighted it on the 5th of April, 1770, and three days later cast

anchor off the Chilica Bar at the entrance of Callao.

In his haste to reach the land, and seek help for his sick, Surville

was unwilling to allow any one else to visit the governor.

Unfortunately his boat was capsized by the waves that break over the

bar, and only one of the crew was saved. Surville and all the rest

were drowned.

Thus miserably perished this great navigator, too early for the

services he might have rendered to his country and to science. As for

the _Saint-Jean Baptiste_, she was detained "for three years" before

Lima by the interminable delays of the Spanish customs. Labbe assumed

the command, and took her back to Lorient on the 23rd of August, 1773.

As we have already related, M. de Bougainville had taken a Tahitan

named Aoutourou to Europe. When this native expressed a desire to

return to his native land, the French administration had sent him to

Mauritius, with orders to the governor of that colony to facilitate

his return to Tahiti.

A naval officer, Marion Dufresne, availed himself of this opportunity,

and offered Poivre, the Governor of Mauritius and Bourbon, to send the

young Aoutourou to Tahiti at his own expense and in a vessel belonging

to him. He only required that a vessel belonging to the state might be

assigned to him, and a small sum of money advanced to assist him in

the preparations for the expedition.

Nicholas Thomas Marion Dufresne was born at St. Malo on the 22nd of

December, 1729, and had entered the naval service very young. On the

16th of October, 1746, he was made lieutenant of a frigate, and at the

time of his offer was still only captain of a fire ship. Still he had

served everywhere with distinction, and nowhere more successfully than

in the Indian Seas.

The mission for which he offered himself was merely a pretext for a

voyage of discovery in the Southern Seas.

Poivre, an intelligent governor and a friend to progress, approved of

Dufresne's projects, and gave him detailed instructions for the

enterprise he was about to undertake in the Southern Hemisphere. At

this time Cook had not yet proved the non-existence of an Antarctic

Continent.

Poivre would dearly have liked to have discovered the northern portion

of the lands he imagined to lie near the French colonies, and where he

hoped to meet with a more temperate climate. He calculated upon

finding timber for masts, and many other necessaries there, such as

provisions, which he was now obliged to obtain at heavy cost from the

metropolis. Moreover, there might be a safe port, where vessels could

find shelter from the storms which almost periodically ravaged the

islands of Mauritius and Bourbon.

The government had just sent a ship's lieutenant, M. Kerguelen, to

make discoveries in these unknown seas. Marion's expedition, which was

to try a different route, could not fail to aid in the solution of the

problem.

On the 18th of October, 1771, the _Mascarin_, commanded by Marion, and

the _Marquis de Castries_, under the Chevalier Du Clesmeur, midshipman,

set sail. They put in first at Bourbon Island. There they took

Aoutourou on board. He was unfortunately infected with small-pox,

which he had caught in the Mauritius; and the illness soon declared

itself, so that it was necessary to leave Bourbon lest he should

communicate it to the inhabitants. The two vessels then made for Port

Dauphin, on the coast of Madagascar, in order to allow the malady to

run its course, before proceeding to the Cape, where they were to

complete provisioning. Young Aoutourou soon died of the disease.

Under these circumstances, was it necessary to return to Mauritius,

disarm the ships, and give up the expedition? Marion thought not. With

greater freedom of action, he determined to make himself famous by a

new voyage, and he inspired his companions with enthusiasm like his

own.

He soon reached the Cape of Good Hope, where he completed in a few

days the provisioning necessary for an eighteen months' voyage.

A southerly route was chosen towards the land discovered in 1739 by

Bouvet de Lozier, and which was to be looked for east of the meridian

of Madagascar.

Nothing remarkable occurred from the 28th of December, 1771, the day

upon which the vessels had left the Cape, until the 11th of January.

It was then discovered, by taking the longitude 20 degrees 43 minutes

east of the Paris meridian, that they were in the parallel (40 degrees

to 41 degrees south) of the islands named in Van Keulen's chart as

Dina and Marvezen, and not marked at all upon French maps.

Although the presence of land-birds induced Marion to suppose that he

was not far from the islands, he left these latitudes on the 9th of

January, convinced that his search for the southern continent ought to

occupy his entire attention. The 11th of January found him in 45

degrees 43 minutes S. lat., and, although it was summer in these

regions, the cold was severe, and snow fell without ceasing. Two days

later, in a dense fog, which was succeeded by rain, Marion discerned

land which extended a distance of five leagues from the W.S.W. to the

E.N.E. The soundings gave a depth of eighty fathoms with a bottom of

coarse sand mixed with coral. This land stretched away till it could

be seen behind the vessels, that is to say, over a distance of six to

seven leagues. It appeared to be very lofty and mountainous. It

received the name of Hope, marking Marion's great desire to reach the

southern continent. Four years later Cook called it Prince Edward's

Island.

To the north lay another territory.

Crozet, editor of Marion's voyage, says,--

"I noticed, in coasting along this island, that to the N.E. there

existed a creek, opposite to what appeared to be a large cavern. All

around this cavern he remarked a number of large white spots, which

looked like a flock of sheep. Had time allowed, he might have found

anchorage opposite the creek. I fancied I saw a cascade issuing from

the mountains. In rounding the island we discovered three islets

detached from it, two of them situated in the large bay formed by the

coast, and the third on its northern extremity. The island itself was

about seven or eight leagues in circumference, without verdure, and

apparently barren. The coast was healthy and safe. M. Marion named it

Cavern Island.

"These two southern territories are situated in 45 degrees 45 minutes

S. lat. by 34 degrees 31 minutes east of the Paris meridian, half a

degree east of the route pursued by Bouvet. Next day, about six

leagues of the coast of the land of Hope was made out. It looked

fertile. The mountains were lofty and covered with snow. The

navigators were about to look for anchorage, when, during the sounding

operations, the two ships ran foul of each other and were both damaged.

Three days were occupied in repairs. The weather, which had hitherto

been fine, broke up, and, the wind becoming violent, it was necessary

to continue the course following the forty-sixth parallel. New lands

were discovered on the 24th of January.

"At first," says Crozet, "they appeared formed of two islands; I took

a sketch at a distance of eight leagues, and shortly afterwards we

took them for two capes, imagining we could see in the far distance a

stretch of land between them. They are situated in 40 degrees 5

minutes S. lat. and about 42 degrees E. long. reckoning from the

meridian of Paris. M. Marion named them Les Iles Froides, or the Cold

Islands.

"Although little progress was made during the night, the islands were

invisible next morning. Upon this day the _Castries_ signalled land,

which stretched some ten or twelve leagues E.S.E.; but a dense fog,

lasting no less than twelve hours, continued rain, and cold, which was

severe and trying to lightly-clad men, made any approach nearer than

six or seven leagues impossible.

"This coast was seen again upon the 24th, as well as new land, which

received the name of the Arid Island, and is now known as Crozet

Island. Marion was at length able to lower a boat, and ordered Crozet

to take possession of the larger of the two islands in the name of the

king. It is situated in 46 degrees 30 minutes S. lat., and 43 degrees

E. long., reckoning from the Paris meridian. M. Marion called this

island La Prise de Possession (it is now known as Marion Island). This

was the sixth island discovered by us in these southern waters. From a

height I discerned snow in many of the valleys. The land appeared

barren, and covered with very small grass. I found neither tree nor

bush in the island. Exposed to the continual ravages of the stormy

west winds which prevailed the entire year in these latitudes, it

appeared uninhabitable. I found nothing there but seals, penguins,

sea-gulls, Mother Carey's chickens, and every variety of aquatic birds,

usually met with by navigators in the open sea, when passing the Cape

of Good Hope. These creatures, never having seen a man, were not wild,

and allowed us to take them in the hand. The female birds sat

tranquilly upon their eggs, others fed their young, whilst the seals

continued their gambols in our presence, without appearing in the

least alarmed."

Marion continued to steer between 46 degrees to 47 degrees lat. in the

midst of a fog so dense that it was impossible to see from one end of

the deck to the other, and without constant firing the ships must have

parted company. Upon the 2nd of February the two ships were in 47

degrees 22 minutes E. long., that is to say within 1 degree 10 minutes

of the lands discovered upon the 13th of the same month by the king's

vessels _La Fortune_ and _Le Gros Ventre_, commanded by MM. de

Kerguelen and Saint Allouarn. Doubtless, but for the accident to the

_Castries_, Marion would have fallen in with them.

Having reached 90 degrees east of the Paris meridian, Marion changed

his route, and directed his course to Van Diemen's Land. No incident

occurred during the cruise, and the two vessels cast anchor in

Frederick Henry Bay.

Boats were at once lowered, and a strong detachment made its way to

the shore, where some thirty natives were found; and the country,

judging from the fires and smoke, must have been well populated.

"The natives of the country," says Crozet, "came forward willingly.

They picked up wood and formed a sort of pile. They then presented the

new comers with pieces of dried wood which they had lighted; and

appeared to invite them to set fire to the pile. No one knew what the

ceremony might mean, and it was accordingly tried. The natives did not

appear surprised. They remained about us, without making any

demonstration either of hostility or friendship, and their wives and

children were with them. Both men and women were of ordinary height,

black in colour, with woolly hair, and all were naked. Some of the

women carried their children tied on to their backs with rushes. All

the men were armed with pointed sticks and stones, which appeared to

us to be sharp, like hatchets.

"We attempted to win them over by small presents. They disdainfully

rejected all that we offered, even iron, looking-glasses,

handkerchiefs, and pieces of cloth. Fowls and ducks which had been

brought from the ship were shown to them; as evidence that we wished

to trade. They took them, looked at them as if they had never seen

such things before, and threw them aside with an angry air."

[Illustration: "A lighted brand was also presented to them."]

An hour had been spent in the attempt to gain the good-will of the

savages, when Marion and Du Clesmeur landed. A lighted brand was also

presented to them, and fully persuaded that it was a peaceful ceremony,

they did not hesitate to light the pile which was prepared. They were

mistaken, for the natives immediately retired and flung a volley of

stones, which wounded the two captains. They retaliated by a few shots,

and the whole party re-embarked.

After another attempt at landing, which the natives opposed with great

bravery, it was necessary to repulse them by a volley which wounded

several and killed one. The crew then landed and pursued the natives,

who made no attempt to resist them.

Two detachments were sent in search of a watering place, and of trees

suitable for repairing the masts of the _Castries_. Six days passed in

fruitless search; fortunately not wholly wasted, as many curious

observations were made on behalf of science.

"From the considerable number of shells which we found at short

distances," says Crozet, "we concluded that the ordinary food of these

savages was mussels, cockles, and various shell-fish."

Is it not strange to find, among the New Zealanders, the remains of

food similar to that with which we are familiar on the Scandinavian

coasts? Is not man everywhere the same, and incited by the same needs

to the same actions?

Finding it waste of time to seek for water and wood with which to

remast the _Castries_ and repair the _Mascarin_, which leaked a good

deal, Marion started on the 10th of March for New Zealand, and reached

that island fourteen days later.

New Zealand, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and visited by Cook and

Surville in 1772, was now becoming known.

The two vessels made for land at Mount Egmont, but the shore was so

steep at this point, that Marion put back to sea and returned to

reconnoitre the land upon the 31st of March in 36 degrees 30 minutes

latitude.

He coasted along the shore, and, in spite of contrary winds, returned

northward as far as the Three Kings Islands. He found it impossible to

land there. It was therefore necessary to reach the mainland, and

anchor was cast opposite Cape Maria-Van-Diemen, the most northerly

extremity of New Zealand. The anchorage was soon perceived to be bad,

and after many attempts Marion stopped at Cook's Island Bay on the

11th of May.

Tents were erected on one of the islands, where wood and water were

found, and the sick were installed there under a strong guard. The

natives came on board, some of them even slept there, and trade,

facilitated by the use of a Tahitan vocabulary, was carried on in

grand style.

"I remarked with surprise," says Crozet, "that among the savages who

came on board were three distinct species of men. One of these

appeared to be the original native, and was of a yellowish white

colour, taller than the others, the usual height being from five foot

nine to five foot ten inches; he had smooth black hair. The more

swarthy and somewhat smaller men had slightly curling hair. And lastly,

the genuine negro, with woolly hair and of smaller stature than the

others, but usually broader chested. The first have very little beard,

whilst the negroes have a great deal."

This curious observation was afterwards verified. It is unnecessary to

linger over the customs of the New Zealanders, or over Marion's minute

description of their fortified villages, their arms, clothing and

food; these details are already known to our readers.

The French pitched three camps on land. The first for the sick, upon

Matuaro Island, the second upon the mainland, which served as a depot,

and a means of communication with the third, which was the workshop of

the carpenters, and was some two leagues away in the midst of a wood.

The crew, persuaded by the friendliness of the natives, made long

excursions into the interior, and received a hearty welcome everywhere.

Confidence was at length so fully established that, in spite of

Crozet's representations, Marion ordered the sloops' boats to be

disarmed. This was unpardonable imprudence in a country where Tasman

had given the name of Assassin Bay to the first point on which he

landed, where Cook had met with cannibals, and had been nearly

massacred.

On the 8th of June, Marion landed, and was received with even greater

demonstrations of friendship than usual. He was proclaimed head chief

of the country, and the natives placed four white feathers in his hair,

as insignia of royalty.

Four days later he again landed with two young officers, MM. de

Vaudricourt and Le Houx, a volunteer and captain of arms, and a few

sailors, seventeen persons in all. Evening approached, but no one came

back to the ship. At first no anxiety was felt, for the hospitable

customs of the natives were well-known. It was supposed that Marion

had slept on shore, to be ready to visit the workshops in the morning.

On the 13th of June the _Castries_ sent her boat for the daily supply

of wood and water. At nine o'clock a man was seen swimming towards the

ships. A boat was lowered to help him on board. It was one of the

rowers, the only one who had escaped from the massacre of his comrades.

He had received two lance thrusts in the side, and been much

ill-treated.

[Illustration: "The only one who had escaped."]

From his account, it appeared that the natives had at first shown

their usual friendliness. They had even carried the sailors, who

feared getting wet, ashore upon their shoulders. But, when the crew

dispersed to pick up their cargo of wood, the natives reappeared,

armed with spears, tomahawks, and clubs, and threw themselves in

parties of six and seven upon each of the sailors. The survivor had

been attacked by two men only, who had wounded him with two lance

thrusts, and as, fortunately, he was not far from the sea, he had

succeeded in reaching the shore, where he hid himself in some

brushwood. From thence he had witnessed the massacre of all his

companions. The savages had the bodies stripped, and commenced cutting

them up, when he stole noiselessly from his concealment, and threw

himself into the sea, hoping to reach the ship by swimming. Had all

the sixteen men who accompanied Marion, and of whom no news was

received, met a like fate? It seemed probable. In any case, it was

needful to take immediate precautions for the safety of the three

camps. Chevalier Du Clesmeur at once took the command, and, thanks to

his energy, the disaster did not assume worse proportions.

The sloop of the _Mascarin_ was armed and sent in search of Marion's

boat and sloop, with orders to warn all the camps, and carry help to

the most distant, where masts and spars were being made. On the road,

upon the shore, the two boats were discovered near the village of

Tacoury. They were surrounded by natives, who had pillaged them after

massacring the sailors.

Without waiting to regain possession of the boats, the officer put on

all speed in the hope of reaching the workshop in time. Fortunately,

it had not yet been attacked by the natives. All work was immediately

stopped, the utensils and weapons were collected, the guns were loaded,

and such objects as could not be removed were buried beneath the ruins

of the shed, which was set on fire.