CHAPTER XXXV

CUSTOMS

The characteristics of a country are always an interesting theme and it

seems that Mexico is bountifully supplied with legends and traditions

that lend to her all the charms of a poetic and romantic nation. Born

in a land of natural wealth and beauty, breathing the balmy air and

beholding the bright sunshine of this country, the Mexican must be by

nature _allègre_ and alert to all the graces of living.

The customs of the people, like those of all rapidly developing

nations, are fast changing and in a few years there will remain few

habits and fashions to distinguish this country from any other land.

At the same time, Mexico retains many charming characteristics that

she will never lose. Her warm hospitality, the frank extension of a

friendly hand, the open door of the home, the adoration and respect

paid to her women and the love and reverence bestowed upon her heroes

will always stamp the Mexican as exceedingly attractive.

In the home the life is sweet and supremely happy. Little children kiss

their parent’s hands, the old folks the hands of their elders, and the

benediction of the padre, who comes to pay a short call, is eagerly

sought by old and young. In matters pertaining to religious education

the Mexican child is reared in rigid form. He is taught to hold in

reverence all the church feasts, and the precepts of the priest in

charge of the parish are faithfully followed.

Carmen Day has been a great religious feast for six hundred years in

the Catholic calendar. Hundreds of homes are annually made happy with

visits and gifts to the Carmens, who are remembered by their friends.

Since Madame Diaz has been the first lady in the land, Carmen Day has

been more popular than ever, as it is the feast of her patron saint.

Every town in the republic has its plaza, which is always laid out with

beautiful flowers and shrubs, with walks going around the square wide

enough to permit many people passing back and forth. In the evenings

and on Sundays the Municipal Bands render popular music and the young

folks promenade for several hours. The young men take one direction and

the señoritas the opposite, so they meet face to face at every turn. In

this way the language of the eyes plays an important part. Sometimes a

tiny note is slipped, sometimes a stolen word, by a bolder aspirant.

The architecture of the Mexican house, with its barred windows and

well-guarded doors tends to incline the people to lead exclusive lives,

and yet once within these massive portals the beauty and love of the

home life are seen in many ways.

[Illustration: INDIAN MAIDEN WATER CARRIER.]

The custom of the master placing his house and everything in it at

your disposal (_esta a la disposition de usted_) is very pleasing

to note. You admire a ring, it is at your service; a horse is offered

you; letters are dated from your house (_la casa de usted_). Some,

from ignorance of the custom of these mere expressions of civility,

often place their hosts in a dilemma. A charming American lady, wife

of one of the great generals, once admired a handsome fan belonging

to one of the ladies in the official circle and on being told it was

hers accepted it with great delight, much to the consternation and

embarrassment of the señora. She carried her treasure home, but later

learned that the gracious proffer was a custom of the land and returned

the fan with a diplomatic note.

The market places are a source of great wonder and interest. Here small

tables and bits of straw matting are placed on all sides and upon these

the men and women display their wares. Vegetables, fruits, and goods of

all description are arranged in heaps, always with an eye to system and

attractiveness. The people are sheltered from the intense rays of the

sun by awnings of cloth or matting. They are all polite, and with their

bright smiles easily gain customers.

Together with the vegetables or flowers are found fat, pretty babies

with black eyes, and always sweet and charming. The flower-market is

a place of enchantment, for the love of flowers is a strong trait of

character in these people. Here are men and women arranging great

bunches of exquisite blossoms with a delicacy of taste that is

surprising.

[Illustration: TYPE OF TEHUANTEPEC WOMAN.]

One of the Easter customs is the hanging in effigy of Judas Iscariot,

which is done everywhere in the country, from the large cities to the

smallest hamlets. Mexicans attire themselves in black during Holy

Week, and on the Saturday before Easter Day these grotesque figures of

him who betrayed the Master are brought out everywhere and hanged and

burned with all the contempt due to the betrayer.

Peculiar little rattles which make a clatter representing the breaking

of the bones of Judas are sold on the streets on Good Friday.

On the twenty-first of August the Indians observe a feast in memory

of the tortures to which Cuauhtemoc and his general were subjected

by Cortés in an effort to secure information concerning the buried

treasure.

The laws of Mexico provide for the welfare of the Indians in a

liberal manner and the best means of improving their mental and moral

development is occupying the attention of the leading educators

of the country. A society has just been formed in Mexico City for

the protection of the Indians. The question as to what should be

the political responsibility of the primitive people, untrained in

independent thought and action, is not easily disposed of, and blunders

which have been committed by the most enlightened nations in this

respect prove how important is this problem.

The Indian is still a child in mental and moral growth, but he is

progressing under the benign influence of peace and security. Those who

dwell in the mountainous districts have preserved in all their purity

their ancient habits and primitive language.

In some districts, as in the region of the Sierra, they preserve their

native dances, and during certain religious ceremonies they execute

these dances in their temples before the most venerated images.

[Illustration: IN RIDING COSTUME--CHARRO SUITS.]

Many Mexican families are of noble lineage, dating back to the eight

hundred years’ war with the Moors, when their ancestors were ennobled

for gallantry of service to their kings. Some of the best families are

very poor but conserve their dignity and position always.

Newer families of social distinction are descendants of successful

soldiers who stood somewhat in the same relation to the old aristocracy

as did the marshals and generals of Napoleon I. to the old French

nobility. Descendants of presidents constitute another kind of

aristocracy, in fact, service to the State in high office gives one’s

family and descendants a claim on popular consideration and respect.

There are many descendants of the Aztec monarchs living in other

countries, but few in Mexico. One of the small number remaining is

Coronel Prospero Cahuantzi, Governor of the Aztec State, Tlaxcala. He

is a pure-blood Aztec Indian and speaks the language with a softness

that is delightful.

The ancient marriage customs of Yucatán are unusual as well as

interesting. From time immemorial the Maya women have worn a simple

form of dress which they never vary. It consists of two pieces, a very

full skirt falling to the ankles and a loose upper garment called

huipil, joined under the arms, only it hangs in graceful folds after

the manner of the Greek peplum. Cotton or linen is the material, always

plain white, though trimmed with colored embroidery. The women load

their necks and ears with beautiful hand-wrought filigree jewelry.

[Illustration: A TYPE OF THE MAYA WOMAN, YUCATÁN.]

In almost every State there are certain dances and music typical of the

people. In Yucatán there is a particular dance called the vaqueria. It

is performed at the public fiestas by the mestizos dressed in exquisite

costumes, brilliant in colored embroideries. The graceful dancers are

inspired by music from a stringed orchestra of native performers, and

their dainty feet move with a rhythm that is most fascinating.

Mexico owes much of its peculiar beauty to the religious fervor of

her inhabitants. Everywhere white crosses gleam among the trees, in

solitary paths, on mountain tops and at the openings of mines. Even the

haystacks have crosses fashioned in a rude way upon them, and buildings

in course of construction are never without the sign of the cross.

Wherever the footsteps of man pass, on rude huts, or barren rocks,

the emblem of the faith stands, and in every hamlet the temple of God

arises in comparative splendor. The symbol of the cross, strange as

it may appear, was known to the Mexican Indians before the coming of

Cortés. There was a temple dedicated to the Holy Cross by the Toltecs

in Cholula and near Tulancingo a rock stands, engraved with a cross

and other hieroglyphs or signs. Among the faithful-looking old trees

a church will be found, gray and ancient, always gleaming in the soft

light, the insignia of the Christian faith. The Indian, plodding to the

nearest village with his wares will stop for a few moments to mumble

his prayers before a cross that stands at the roadside. Wherever a

murder or an accident has occurred rude crosses are always planted;

sometimes it is only the branch of a tree fashioned in a primitive way,

but always a cross.

[Illustration: MEXICAN BASKET SELLERS.]

[Illustration: SAN BARTOLO MINE, ZACATECAS]

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