CHAPTER XXXIII

YUCATÁN

In 1517, Hernandez de Cordoba discovered the beautiful Peninsula of

Yucatán.

Bathed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico and

possessing throughout immense area lakes and beautiful scenery, it is

one of the most picturesque States in the republic. Geographically

considered, the Peninsula of Yucatán extends to the Isthmus of

Tehuantepec. The natural condition and elements have made this

territory a theme for many studies on account of the great interest

that is taken in the various resources that are presented.

Lovers of art and history and students of archæology have been drawn

toward Yucatán for over a century.

The scenery impresses one as being strangely unique. Back of the coast

stretches a broad lagoon many miles in extent and varying in depth

with the sea. Here the northern birds spend their winters. Beyond the

lagoon, the bed of coral which composes the entire peninsula rises

slightly above the sea level, presenting the appearance of a dry swamp.

On the roads, which run parallel with the railways, patient oxen plod

slowly along, their heads bowed under heavy yokes, hauling great loads

of henequen in rude carts with wooden wheels.

The great industry of this State is the cultivation of hemp, which

is a species of the cacti family known as “sisal.” The magnitude and

importance of this business can scarcely be imagined. The hemp grows

wild in great profusion and seems to thrive best on barren lots and

desert sands or in very thin soil where nothing else could find its

abode. A “henequen” plant attains its full perfection in seven years.

A stem shoots out from the centre of it, the leaves gradually detach

themselves in the form of an immense spear or “Spanish bayonet,” with

sharp thorns along the edges, terminating in a strong needle-like

point. A bale of henequen fibre represents the product of about seven

thousand leaves. In most places the process of making the fibre by hand

is discarded as unprofitable, and the stripping of the leaves is done

with great machines driven with powerful steam engines. The scraper

consists of a large wheel with strong blunt knives around its rim. The

henequen leaves are pressed against this rim and by means of a lever

worked by machinery the knives remove in an instant the pulp which

covers the fibre. The pulp having been removed, the fibre is taken from

the leaves in long strips, like very fine silk thread of a beautiful

green tint. It is made into small bundles and placed in the sun to dry.

In the packing house the dried hanks are put up into four-hundred pound

bales by a cotton-press. It is then ready for market, where its value,

like other commodities, varies.

[Illustration: SEÑOR DON ENRIQUE M. ARISTEGÚI, GOVERNOR OF

YUCATÁN.]

On account of the present low price of henequen it is difficult to

support the factories and meet the numberless expenses incurred during

the long period of seven years until it reaches maturity and becomes

commercially valuable. The farmers are now thinking about reducing the

area of future plantations. They are also considering the cultivation

of cotton, “pochote,” castor oil plant, and all the products indigenous

to their climate.

A great interest is awakening in the manufacture of ropes, twines of

all sizes and bagging of all description, to such an extent that the

factory La Industrial has been manufacturing these articles for more

than a year and selling them at such profit that the demand is greater

than the supply. Had it not been for the excessively low price of hemp

the farmers would not have awakened to the fact that the time had come

for them to look for new cultures and develop new industries, and the

fall in the price of henequen has deeply impressed the minds of the

growers, with the result that many new industries will soon become

established in this State.

[Illustration: SEÑOR DON AUGUSTO PEON.]

Next in value to henequen comes the bromelia pita, locally known as

“ixtle” the ancient Aztec name. From this the Mayas’ clothes are

made: it formed the foundation of the beautiful feathered cloaks of

Montezuma’s time. The ixtle furnishes the poorer classes with their

garments and hammock-beds in which they are born and die, and their

baskets and household utensils and paper are manufactured from the

fibre. From the roots of the plant a favorite intoxicant is brewed;

the juice of its bruised leaves is the best known remedy for wounds;

its thorns are the Indian pins and needles. A few years ago some

ixtle fibre was sent to England for experiment in the great cloth

manufactories and from it some handkerchiefs were woven which have

since figured in several expositions, to the astonishment of all

beholders.

While the Mexican people are noted for their politeness and courtesy,

the Yucatecas seem to have more than their share of delightful

_simpatia_. The women are beautiful and cultured and in no part of

the republic is the social element more remarkable than here. Merida is

called “The White City” and has been famous for its brilliant carnival

celebrations. At these times enthusiasm and animation reign supreme.

[Illustration: VIEW OF MERIDA.]

Merida was founded by Don Francisco de Montejo in 1542. The original

home of its founder is still standing. It is located on the principal

plaza and is an object of great interest. The entrance to this house is

a wonderful specimen of antique carving.

The cathedral is one of the handsomest and largest in the republic and

the many beautiful temples are most interesting to visit. Some fine old

carvings of the time of the Spanish viceroys are seen in many of these

churches.

The new Peon Contreras Theatre ranks in beauty with any building of its

kind in the world. The splendid appointments of this theatre and its

marble columns and corridors are a marvel to those who have seen it.

It was built under the supervision of Señor Don J. Rafael de Regil,

demonstrating splendid taste and judgment.

Many prominent buildings have been erected in late years which are

a great credit to the city. The General Hospital, the Penitentiary,

the Insane Asylum and all the city government buildings are modern

structures equipped with every luxurious necessity. The Episcopal

Palace is a specimen of antique architecture and is one of the largest

in the republic. Merida has many benevolent societies and the public

benefit is well guarded. Orphan asylums, correctional schools of arts

and crafts, an asylum for beggars, and a maternity house.

[Illustration: HIS GRACE, MONSEIGNOR MARTIN TRISHLER, FIRST

ARCHBISHOP OF YUCATÁN.]

Some of the finest hammocks in the world are made in Yucatán. They are

hand woven of the sacci fibre and are of unusual size. This State is as

famous for its hammocks as Switzerland is for its clocks. The finest

come from the penitentiary at Merida.

The Paseo Montejo is one of the fashionable drives. On it are handsome

residences, among which is the palatial home of General Francisco

Canton.

The prehistoric race that peopled Yucatán and the wonderful monuments

and ruins they left behind them have baffled explorers from all parts

of the world and there are many theories advanced concerning the

builders. The natives regard these decayed cities with superstitious

awe, and they remain much in obscurity because few have braved

the wilderness in order to explore them. The ancient knowledge of

architecture is proved by these marvellous structures and amazing

relics. The ruins of Chichen-Itza and Uxmal are accessible from Merida.

[Illustration: CORRIDOR OF THE CURATE HOUSE, MERIDA.]

There are two agricultural chambers in Merida, “La Camara Agricula

Nacional” and “La Camara Agricula de Yucatán,” which are doing great

work in promoting the industries of the State. One of these recently

had an exhibit demonstrating the wonderful possibilities of the

henequen, and among the numerous articles were baskets, hammocks and

cloth, three widely different articles. The fruit and vegetable display

consisted of the products of the State.

A monthly magazine devoted to the interest of farming called _El

Agricultor_, is published by the Camara Agricula.

[Illustration: MODEL SCHOOL FOR BOYS, MERIDA.]

In the Yucatán Museum there is an interesting collection of monoliths,

statues, prints and other details of the old Maya architecture,

utensils and personal ornaments of a primitive and mysterious race that

inhabited the peninsula. Another museum which merits special notice is

that of the late Bishop De Crescencio Carrillo y Ancona, who was the

first director of the State Museum. Fine parks and public gardens help

to add to its beauty: in one of these parks stands a splendid statue

of General Manuel Zepeda Peraza, the great patriot of Yucatán.

Señor Don Augusto Peon is the mayor of the city and many reforms have

been executed during his administration. New streets and avenues have

been opened and schools have been established. He is noted for his

philanthropy and the poor have found in him a good friend. His family

is one of the most distinguished in the State and he is held in great

admiration and respect.

[Illustration: THE PEON CONTRERAS THEATRE.]

Public education is given the most rigid attention. Among the most

important schools are those of San Vicente de Paul, under the direction

of Obras de la Ensenanza. These schools are conducted upon monthly

subscription by those interested in the Christian education. In the

scientific and religious instruction all the precepts of modern

pedagogy are followed. The elementary schools for boys and girls are

supported by the estate of the late Leandro Leon Ayala. These schools

are divided into five branches with an inspector appointed for the

supervision of each. The literary institute founded by General Peraza

is under the personal direction of Señor Licenciado D. Olegario Molina,

who is one of the distinguished statesmen of the republic. To this

noted gentleman the State of Yucatán owes its wonderful growth within

the last ten years. He has occupied many high official positions,

having been governor of the State before assuming the cabinet office.

He was the engineer who had charge of the construction of the first

railroad that was built in the Peninsula, which connects the capital

city with the port of Progreso.

[Illustration: FAÇADE OF THE MONTEJO HOUSE, MERIDA.]

[Illustration: INDIAN HEMP CUTTER.]

This railroad was constructed with local capital and the entire

enterprise was organized with great success. In the cultivation

and development of the henequen industry, Señor Molina has been

foremost in the enterprise. He is noted for entering into everything

with enthusiasm and in the reconstruction of his State while he was

governor, he adopted the famous system of his chief magistrate, General

Diaz, of “less politics and much administration.” With perseverance,

which is characteristic of this official, Señor Molina consecrated

his attention to the irrigation and industry of the State, which are

important factors in the national good, and during his administration

agriculture assumed splendid results and the record that remains

behind him is a monument to his greatness. The present governor is

Señor D. Enrique Muñoz Aristegúi, who is progressive and enterprising

and has followed closely the example set by his predecessors.

The United Railroads of Yucatán have eight hundred kilometres of

various lines which extend to all important points of this State and to

Campeche. This company was formed in 1902, being a merger of several

independent lines, as follows: The railroad from Merida to Progreso

with a branch to Izamal; from Merida to Valladolid with a branch to

Progreso; the Peninsula Railroad; the railroad from Merida to Peto

with a branch to Sotuta. The construction of the first railroad was

organized by Señor José Rendon Peniche.

[Illustration: JUAREZ PENITENTIARY, MERIDA.]

The principal points which these railroads touch are Valladolid, which

is known as the Sultana of the East, and was at one time a city of

much more importance than to-day; Tizimin, where the three kings,

Magos, annually met; Motul, the next largest city of the State, and

a centre of importance on account of the henequen industry; Izamal,

another important industrial centre and famous for the pilgrimages to

the Virgin de la Asuncion; Tekas and Peto, important cities of the

sugar industry; Ticul, the centre of the corn region; Halacho, another

point famous for its religious feasts. The only port in the State is

Progreso. The Ward Line steamers touch this port and this company runs

excursions from the port to Merida, giving the passengers a glimpse

of this unique part of Mexico, returning to the steamer in time to

continue their voyage.

[Illustration: STAIRWAY IN THE PEON CONTRERAS THEATRE.]

Mr. W. P. Young, of the New York and Cuba Mail and Steamship Company,

has formulated plans for excursions to Yucatán on a twenty-day tour to

see the ruins and enjoy the wonders of a semi-tropical climate during

the winter months. This is an excellent opportunity for the student or

traveller.

[Illustration: ARCH BUILT TO CELEBRATE THE CENTENNIAL,

MERIDA.]

[Illustration: PLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA, CAMPECHE.]

[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL, CAMPECHE]

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