THE WEST COAST
There is always interest in observing the progress of a people, their
gradual conquest over evil conditions and their energy in removing all
obstacles which stand in the way of advancement. The demonstration of
strength and determination which result in triumph, stimulates the
energies of men of all countries, and the gratification that is gained
through overcoming difficulties becomes a natural pride. This example
the Mexican nation has shown to the world.
SINALOA owes a great part of her progress to the people. The actual
government, comprised of sons of the State, is a body of men of
action and intelligence, and the welfare of the country is their
first consideration. All public works and improvements are jealously
protected and every class of enterprise, mineral, commercial, maritime,
industrial, educational and agricultural are prosecuted to the full
extent of possible development.
As a maritime State she possesses a wonderful future. Mazatlan has
become a great Mexican port of the Pacific and is in close competition
with the port of Vera Cruz, though neither are rivals, on account of
their geographical positions. The country is well supplied with banking
and commercial facilities and vast enterprises for land development
have taken hold here. Railroad service and quick communication with
the Pacific have given Sinaloa a wider scope, developing with greater
rapidity all this western stretch of territory which has hitherto been
confined to a small area.
The Southern Pacific Railroad connects the United States with the
port of Mazatlan and opens one of the richest undeveloped mining and
agricultural sections in the country. In a few years Sinaloa, under the
dominion of energetic and enterprising citizens, will become one of the
garden spots of America.
[Illustration: GOVERNOR DIEGO REDO, SINALOA.]
The mineral and agricultural elements have greatly advanced and
enriched the State and she is on the road to become a most powerful
industrial centre.
Sinaloa is a maritime State and compares most favorably with all coast
territories. The situation between the great Gulf of California and the
Pacific is most enviable and all active movements of communication are
practical and convenient.
The mineral zones that have been exploited are famous throughout
the world for their riches. There are many precious metals in the
picturesque mountains and judging from the prolific production of the
relatively few enterprises now at work, a rich and incalculable fortune
awaits the prospector.
In the northern part of the State is the great silver belt. El Fuerte
district has extensive gold-placer ground.
The climatic conditions are excellent. The fruit and flowers are of
superior quality and in the high and mountainous regions all the
products of a temperate climate exist in profusion and are easily
cultivated. There is plenty of good land at the disposition of foreign
colonists and the government is always eager to place every advantage
before the settler. A great number of foreigners are living in this
country and they have all the rights and obligations of the natives.
Rivers and extensive irrigating plants make the land fertile and with
many canals and plenty of water-power immense quantities of electrical
power can be supplied to all enterprises and industries that exist and
to those that may become established in the future.
[Illustration: NEW MOUNTAIN ROAD AT MAZATLAN.]
The principal sugar estates are the El Dorado, La Aurora, the
Navaolota, Los Mochis, and El Aguila.
El Dorado is one of the finest sugar plantations in the republic. It is
located on the San Lorenzo River. It is connected with the main line of
the Southern Pacific by a branch from Quila. This hacienda is equipped
with the best machinery and produces fine cube sugar.
[Illustration: THE HARBOR, MAZATLAN.]
The writer spent some days at El Dorado and was the recipient of
most charming courtesies and was initiated into the intricacies of
sugar-making.
La Aurora hacienda is in the outskirts of the city of Culiacan. This
sugar estate has been under cultivation for years and is noted for its
purity of product.
The name of Redo has been associated with the State of Sinaloa for
over half a century. Señor Joaquin Redo, the father of the governor,
founded many industries, among them sugar factories, steel plants, and
iron foundries, and it is natural that Señor Diego Redo takes such
an interest in the State his forefathers helped to build. He is one
of the most progressive men in the republic and has done so much for
the advancement of every enterprise in his State that he is loved and
respected by all, from the humblest peon to the greatest statesman.
There is no doubt that the young governor, who not forty years old, has
set the pace for energetic and modern advancement. He has taken the
initiative in promoting every form of fruit culture and agricultural
development. In the establishment of the Agricultural Mortgage Bank
now in contemplation he will accomplish an incalculable benefit to the
State. In this movement he has the co-operation of strong interests
in the United States and in the Federal District. This will be a great
acquisition and will materially aid in the construction of irrigation
works and other enterprises which are necessary to the success of the
State.
[Illustration: PLAZA DE LA REPUBLICA, MAZATLAN.]
The building of many cities is one of the plans of the governor and
by his aggressive attitude in the actual progress of his State he is
determined to make Sinaloa one of the most important in the Union. The
first thing accomplished with the aid of the State legislators was
the establishment of an engineering corps. This corps costs the State
about sixty thousand dollars a year and is composed of the finest
engineers obtainable. Surveys of the entire country are made, sites
for cities are located and the proper locations of the big valleys
and level of the streams are obtained. In this way, it was discovered
that the Sinaloa River makes a loop of about eighteen miles and then
passes itself within a distance of only one hundred and sixty metres.
The division of the river is by a single mountain ridge through which
a tunnel is to be bored. This will afford a sufficient drop to produce
more than six hundred horse-power and at the same time supply the
immediate valley with plenty of water for irrigating purposes. Through
this means of survey the sites of some of these cities has been located.
Governor Redo is noted for his policy and perception and is always a
prominent figure in ceremonials where the distinguished men of the
country are gathered, and when a new building is dedicated or a new
railroad inaugurated, this gentleman is always present.
[Illustration: STREET SCENE, CULIACAN.]
On the opening of the Tucson and West Coast of Mexico Railway an
important link was formed in an interoceanic and international line,
from the shores of the Atlantic Coast to the Pacific Ocean on the west
shores of the Republic of Mexico. Citizens of the two great republics
met and ceremonies befitting so great an occasion were held. An
intelligent and delicate tribute was paid to the meeting of General
Diaz and President Taft by Governor Redo in an appropriate address, of
which is given the following extract: “The joyous echoes of the feasts
held in El Paso and Ciudad Juarez on the occasion of the meeting of
our Presidents are still resounding in the hearts of Americans and
Mexicans. We still recall the words of President Diaz affirming in the
name of the Mexican nation the reciprocity of the cordial sentiments
which on this solemn occasion were evinced by the countrymen of the
immortal Washington;” and the words of President Taft expressing in
the name of the people of the United States the same sacred sentiments
of friendship and ‘their profound admiration and high esteem for the
great, illustrious and patriotic President Diaz.’ And our present
celebration may be considered as the confirmation of those assertions
no longer in the sphere of diplomatic formalities, but in manner
more effective, as being the direct approximation of the individual
correspondents of both nations. You have invited your Mexican friends
to a great practical and symbolic feast; practical on account of the
utility which the new railroad line will bring to both countries by
quickening traffic, reducing freight rates, linking markets close
together and offering occasion and pretext for a better mutual benefit
understanding; symbolic, because this material approachment is the
concrete and plastic representation of brotherly neighborhood of two
nations, who, putting aside all possible bitterness, take pleasure in
the solace of a cordial friendship, and overcoming differences of race
and obstacles of language, seek the ideal of a human solidarity, ever
working for the common welfare.”
[Illustration: SEÑOR DON JOAQUIN REDO]
[Illustration: CUTTING SUGAR CANE, EL DORADO.]
The capital of the State is Culiacan. It occupies the site of the old
Aztec city of Colhuacan, famed in Mexican history. It has a population
of about twenty thousand and is rapidly growing in importance. Being
one of the oldest cities in the republic, many antique buildings
still exist in a state of preservation which shows the remarkable
craft of the builders centuries ago. It is in the midst of the gold
mining district and is the centre of extensive trade. There are
cotton factories, sugar refineries and several manufactories of great
importance. The city has a fine public square and the streets are
very attractive. Among the principal buildings are the Government
Houses, new schools, banking houses and a magnificent cathedral, which
has a collection of paintings of the old masters. The press is well
represented in this State, there being several interesting “Dailies.”
[Illustration: AQUEDUCT, CULIACAN.]
The fibre industry has advanced with great rapidity, and some of the
manufactories are in a flourishing condition.
Altata is the seaport of the city of Culiacan and is the outlet for
the large agricultural and mining country. The export of ores, sugar
and brazil-wood forms the trade of this port. A short railroad line
connects this town with the capital.
Mazatlan is a most important mercantile centre, but there are other
cities that follow it in close competition. There are many important
importing and exporting establishments. It is the most progressive city
on the west coast and has taken on the appearance of a busy American
port town.
The people are well educated, cultured and refined. The educational
system has every facility for mental equipment.
[Illustration: PORTALES, CULIACAN.]
The principal newspaper is _El Diario del Pacifico_.
One is impressed with the beautiful approach to this port, the flanking
mountains and the blue Pacific waters making a contrast with the
tropical palms and ferns ashore.
Silver mines are found in this locality and the chief exports are gold
and silver, dye woods and fine pearls.
SONORA
Baron Humboldt called the West Coast the “mineral storehouse of the
world.”
Sonora is notably a mining State and covers an area of seventy-seven
thousand square miles and the mining industry dates back to the time
of the Spanish Conquerors. Some of the mines worked by them are still
producing. Deposits of gold, silver and copper occur in remarkable
abundance and with modern mining facilities have developed great
commercial importance, while hundreds of mines remain unworked since
their abandonment during the revolution against Spain from 1810 to
1821. In silver production Sonora has been surpassed by the interior
States but from the beginning it has held first place as the chief
producer of gold and copper.
Since the Yaqui disturbances have been quelled by the government and
there can be no possible chance for another outbreak, on account of
the strenuous measures taken to conquer this unruly tribe, Sonora has
begun to take on an air of great prosperity. Some of these Indians
finding themselves under the absolute control of the authorities have
settled down to farming and mining and some of them have joined the
army; in consideration of this schools and churches have been erected
for them. One of the greatest benefits occurring from the establishment
of peace has been the betterment of public education. It is the object
of the officials to improve the school system in every manner possible,
and all money formerly used as a war fund against the Yaqui is now
turned to their interest.
The Chamber of Commerce has taken steps to renew public confidence and
open up old business relations with the sections of the State that
have transferred their operations to other points on account of these
troubles; the result is, that all inactive towns have taken on new life
and public improvement has made rapid strides.
This country unites all the conditions necessary for happy, reasonable
living. The climate is temperate, water excellent and abundant and
there is plenty of timber. It is a fine country for coffee, corn, cane
and cotton and the annual shipment of bananas exceeds that of any other
State. The agricultural resources should be properly developed and
although recent improved mining conditions have made them a secondary
feature, there is no doubt that farming is to be one of the best
resources of this rapidly advancing State. The fruit culture of Sonora
is gradually gaining pace with California and the oranges from this
part have been pronounced the finest in the world. The fact that all
produce ripens a few weeks in advance of that in California is a good
reason for farmers to know the value of this section. The steady influx
of earnest people anxious to cast their lot in a country so rapidly
coming to the front leads one to believe that the history of the
pioneers of the Golden West is soon to be repeated.
Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, is one of the first and important
cities on the west coast reached after leaving American territory. It
is situated on the Sonora Railway, which is a branch of the Southern
Pacific. In a beautiful valley with majestic mountains towering in
the distance, this charming city occupies a splendid geographical
position and is destined to become the centre of great commercial and
business enterprises. Stately public buildings, grand old churches,
and beautiful parks of palms and native fruits give the city a
semi-oriental appearance and, with all its quaintness, this is one of
the most attractive cities in this part of the republic.
There are no frosts in the winter months to chill the air, and no
excessive heat in the summer. Possessed of a climate equal to that of
Southern California, it is a most delightful abiding place.
Within the past year the city has taken on a tremendous degree of
activity; improvements are being made daily, buildings reconstructed
and a company of local capitalists have laid out an addition to the
town, grading the streets, macadamizing the roadways and in every way
beautifying the city. Houses on the American plan have been built
and many beautiful residences in this new colony are adding greatly
to the appearance of the city. The energetic interest that the State
government has taken in the progress of this country has given a great
stimulus to the people and it is remarkable how many prospectors have
flocked from the United States to cast their lots in this promising
city.
[Illustration: GENERAL LUIS TORRES, GOVERNOR OF SONORA.]
Hermosillo has about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It has several
public parks that are being continuously improved. The Ramón
Corral Park is the most beautiful. It was named in honor of the
Vice-President, once the Governor of the State, and was donated by him.
The Plaza de Armas is in front of the Municipal Palace and is very
bright and pretty. It is one of the most attractive sights of the city
in the evening when lighted with its brilliant display of electricity.
A mountain in the city limits called Cerro de las Campanas has been
converted into a pleasure resort with a fine drive to its summit, with
byways laid out in a very attractive manner with rustic seats and many
features of beauty. A handsome kiosk is in course of construction where
military bands will give concerts.
A large statue of the patriot Hidalgo stands in a square facing the
Bank of Sonora, one of the most important establishments in the State.
There are many fine banking and commercial houses in this city which
give an idea of the prosperity that reigns supreme.
The Chamber of Commerce and the Chamber of Agriculture are very
active in the interests of the State and Hermosillo boasts of fine
institutions of learning, the idea of the government being to make the
schools of this State the best and most advanced in the republic.
One of the most important is the Colegio de Niñas de Leona Vicario,
named in honor of the great heroine of the Revolution. It has a
conservatory of music, a library, a gymnasium and a branch of arts and
crafts. This school has been opened lately.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT PALACE, HERMOSILLO.]
The Academy for Boys is a large and handsome building with an excellent
system of manual training in connection with other branches. The
public schools of the city are maintained at a cost of eighty thousand
dollars a year. American interests are well protected by Mr. Louis
Hostetter, who is the Consul. He is well loved by the natives and
has the respect of all the government officials. He has enlarged the
trade with the United States and his work is much appreciated. Public
improvements are steadily going on. A concession has been granted for
a dam in the Sonora River, about ten miles from the city. This will be
of great benefit to the outlying districts as well as to the capital,
for there has been a great waste of water that should irrigate at least
five hundred thousand acres of land. There will be a larger power plant
to connect with the factories and electricity is to be generously
distributed.
[Illustration: CATHEDRAL AT ALAMOS, SONORA.]
General Luis E. Torres, the Governor of the State, is the General of
the Military Zone. His duty consumes most of his time and the acting
Governor, Señor Alberto Cubillas, uses great energy and activity in
carrying out the policies of the executive. General Torres is one of
the noted figures of Mexican history. The government of this State is
wise, fearless and impartial and all the officials are directing their
earnest efforts toward advancement.
Guaymas is situated on the bay of the same name and is a very old city.
The antique houses of one story constructed on a solid basis still
hold their own with the later structures of modern architecture, and
the contrast between the two styles is very strange. It is the second
city of importance in the State. The harbor is said to be one of the
finest in the world. The works lately built, some parts are still in
construction, have been done at great expenditure on the part of the
Federal Government. Large vessels can now enter the port. The scenery
surrounding this port city is very attractive and pleasure-seekers
from the North have made it a winter resort as the climate is mild and
equable. Fishing, hunting and boating are indulged in by those living
here, and the great commercial activity grows in importance with each
year. It is the headquarters of the Sonora Railroad whose commodious
offices are very handsome. The Pacific Salt Company is one of the most
extensive in commercial importance and there is scarcely a commodity
that is not manufactured in this city. The Custom House, with the
wireless telegraph station, and the Marine Hospital are important
buildings. The public parks are well laid out and are very attractive
with tropical palms and flowers.
[Illustration: SEÑOR DON ALBERTO CUBILLAS, VICE-GOVERNOR OF
SONORA.]
Five miles from Guaymas is Empalme, a little town of Americans. It is
growing very fast. The houses are all constructed of brick and wood and
are very modern and sanitary. The terminal and machine shops of the
Sonora-Pacific Railway extension are here. Other cities, Esperanza,
Alamos and Cananea, are in close competition in mining activity. Alamos
is an old and picturesque town surrounded by beautiful scenery and its
history is full of old legends and traditions.
[Illustration: BAY AT GUAYMAS.]
Cananea is the headquarters of one of the largest mining companies in
the State. It gives employment to over three thousand Mexicans and half
as many Americans. It is a progressive little town with a variety of
enterprises, theatres, steam laundries, department stores, a newspaper
printed in English, called the _Bulletin_, and a mercantile bank
doing a thriving business.
Nogales is called the Gateway of Mexico. It is divided by an imaginary
line from the town of Nogales, Arizona. There was a great deal of
smuggling carried on at one time owing to the fact that on one side
of a street was American territory and on the other Mexican. But this
no longer exists owing to the strenuous means on the part of both
governments. The main offices of the Sonora Railway and of the Cananea
Division of the Cananea, Rio Yaqui and Pacific are located here. In
speaking of the favorable conditions which exist in Sonora the words
of General Torres are most appropriate: “So great is the area; so
varied the products and so fertile the soil of the opulent State of
Sonora that no man even after a lifetime spent within her borders can
make more than mention of her resources. This year Sonora is more than
ever prepared for the fullest development of her history, owing to
the subjugation of the Yaquis and the consequent settlement of Indian
trouble. The resources of Sonora fall naturally into three great
divisions; mining, agriculture and stock-raising.
[Illustration: BANK OF SONORA, GUAYMAS.]
“In mining it has produced millions of dollars worth of gold, silver,
copper and lead, and will produce millions more in the new wave of
progress which is sweeping over the State. Mines which have been
producing since the middle of the sixteenth century are being driven
deeper and rich new prospects are being opened up all over the State.
“Stock-raising, the original industry, suffered a severe setback during
the recent Indian troubles, but is again being raised to the place of
prominence it should occupy in the wealth-producing land of Sonora.”
[Illustration: RAMÓN CORRAL PARK, HERMOSILLO.]
South of Sinaloa along the Pacific Coast lies the Territory of TEPIC.
It originally belonged to the State of Jalisco but it was declared a
free territory during the administration of General Lerdo de Tejada.
Its agricultural products are rich and all kinds of tropical fruits
grow in great abundance.
The chief industry is salt, which is of great importance commercially.
The Tepic territory is remarkable for the number of waterfalls it
contains, and the rivers which supply water throughout the entire
territory.
[Illustration: YAQUI INDIANS.]
While the beauties of southern California are well known, the imaginary
line that separates from Baja California marks no difference in soil or
climate. It is a continuation of the same general features.
The Peninsula of Lower California was discovered by Cortés in 1536.
It is traversed by a volcanic range of mountains. The Jesuits formed
establishments there about 1690 and instructed the native Indians in
the arts of agriculture and civilization. They remained there until
1767 and the ruins of their old missions are to-day exceedingly
picturesque.
At La Paz the pearl fisheries are very extensive and some of the finest
pearls in the world are among these deposits. More than a thousand
divers are employed during the season, which lasts from May till
November.
Politically, the peninsula is a territory. The two chief cities are La
Paz, in the south, and Ensenada in the north. Ensenada is an American
town exceedingly attractive in appearance. It is beautifully situated
in a healthful location and is a natural outlet of great inland
business and mineral wealth.
Magdalena Bay is one of the beautiful places along the Pacific Coast,
and is surrounded by a green country. Orchilla is a parasitic moss
which hangs from the trees throughout this region, adding a touch of
picturesqueness to the natural beauties of the place. Large quantities
of it are gathered on the seashore and in the vicinity, pressed and
shipped to Europe, where it is used for the purpose of dyeing sealskins.
The region around Cape San Lucas is beautiful in the extreme, and not
far from there lies the picturesque little village of San José del
Cabo, which is a shipping port with a coast custom house section. The
_Orizaba_ and the _Coos Bay_, steamers of the Pacific Coast
Company, stop at all principal ports, and furnish the best possible
means of communication between San Francisco and Guaymas, Sonora.
[Illustration: MUNICIPAL PALACE, GUAYMAS.]
[Illustration: LAKE PATZCUARO, MICHOACÁN.]
[Illustration: THE PLAZA, ZAMORA.]