CHAPTER XXIII

NUEVO LEÓN, SAN LUIS POTOSÍ, AGUASCALIENTES

The kingdom of Nuevo León was once the name of the State of Nuevo León.

It is inland, bordering on Tamaulipas, Coahuila and San Luis Potosí.

Its surface is irregular, as several branches of the Sierra Madre Range

come into it and one-fourth of the State forms a part of the great

central tableland of Mexico.

Mineral productions abound in the mountains. The climate is perfect.

The atmosphere is seldom chilled with frost but sometimes it steals

in at long intervals like a thief in the night to disappear in the

darkness ere the sun has risen. Snow is unknown in the Valley of

Monterey and is seen rarely on the peaks of the mountains which

surround the city.

The Topo Chico hot springs are in the suburbs. This is a famous

health resort. The thermometer never descends to freezing point and

the condition of the atmosphere permits the weakest and most delicate

invalid to promenade in the plazas.

Monterey is fifteen hundred feet above sea level; it is one of the

oldest cities but has been made over and has now all sorts of modern

improvements. Nature is vested in gladness expressed by beauty

and wealth of color, over which flows the mellow radiance of a

semi-tropical sunshine. It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful

mountain scenery in the world. The houses are well-built and tasteful

both in architecture and interior decorations. The Casino is the

principal club.

Honorable Philip C. Hanna, the American consul general, has endeared

himself to the people of Monterey. He was appointed the special

representative of the American Red Cross and did a notable work during

the flood which came near destroying Monterey in 1909. At the Consulate

he protected hundreds of the unfortunate, giving food and clothing to

the desolate in the flooded district.

Monterey is only a few hours ride from Laredo, in Texas. It is a very

American city, with splendid churches, schools and manufacturing

establishments.

[Illustration: PLAZA ZARAGOZA.]

SAN LUIS POTOSÍ

No country is more beautiful in its picturesque vegetation and useful

products than San Luis Potosí. There the highest trees give support to

a multitude of creeping vines and to a swarm of vegetable parasites

which create an agreeable confusion and form obscure thickets where the

foot of man has never yet penetrated. The multitude of color, the green

leaves and the divers hues of the flowers, with a half-light produced

in many places by the shade of the trees, allowing an occasional vista

of purest blue sky; the silence of the bosks at certain hours of the

day; the harmonious songs of the birds at the rising and the setting of

the sun, are all poetical, and invite to meditation and the adoration

of the Author and source of so many marvels. The entire State is a gem

of varied beauty.

[Illustration: PALACE OF GOVERNOR, SAN LUIS POTOSÍ.]

In the towns to the southeast and east of the capital there are lands

well adapted for agriculture. The enterprise directed to this class of

work will find there every kind of products which temperate and torrid

climates know, not only in cereals and fibre-bearing plants, but also

in fruits and hard woods. In all portions of the State Indian corn is

cultivated as well as wheat and beans, all most useful as food for

the inhabitants; but the branches of agriculture which have been most

developed are the cultivation of coffee and tobacco. The coffee plants

number about four million, with a mean yield of forty thousand quintals.

San Luis Potosí may justly lay claim to a first rank among cities

of the Mexican Republic, whether considered from a historical,

political, or commercial point of view. Founded in the days of the

Spanish Conquest, the geographical position, some six thousand feet

above the level of the sea, secured pre-eminence from the earliest

times. The history of the city may to a great extent be read in its

outward appearance. Grand old Spanish churches, such as that of San

Francisco, dating from the sixteenth century, El Carmen with its

two-hundred-year-old carvings, and the Guadalupe, with its charming

sacred associations. The imposing French-built government palace

and the Mexican cathedral, the old Spanish Plaza with its American

tram-lines and electric lights, the old fortified mint, telling of

revolutionary times, the college hospital, the library, and the

splendid theatre, with many new and elegant buildings, speak for the

prosperity and advancement of the present day.

[Illustration: CATHEDRAL, AGUASCALIENTES.]

It has always been a very busy and flourishing place, holding the

same relation to eastern Mexico that Guadalajara holds to western

Mexico. The surrounding country is a very fertile district and San Luis

furnishes a ready market for its produce. There are many fine buildings

in the capital. The government palace is attractive in appearance;

the cathedral shows some fine stone-work on its towers. There is a

characteristic painting of high quality in the church of El Carmen. The

old church has a clock which was given by the King of Spain in return

for the largest piece of silver ore ever taken from a mine. On the

entrance to this beautiful sanctuary are these comforting and inspiring

words:

Aqui el que pide recibe,

El que busca halla,

El que toca se le abre.

(“Here he who asks receives, he who seeks finds, to him who knocks it

is opened.”)

[Illustration: THE BATHS AT AGUASCALIENTES.]

The two tall towers of this church form the most striking feature of

the city to the traveler approaching from the south.

The Theatre in San Luis Potosí, one of the handsomest in Mexico, is

a monument to the progressive spirit of the late General Carlos Diez

Gutierrez, the former governor of the State. The building is of stone,

massive and large. Immense columns of stone and iron adorn the front.

The entrance is very much like that of the Grand Opera in Paris. It is

elegant yet massive in design. There is a grand and beautiful lobby

which is approached by wide marble steps and covered by a dome of heavy

stained glass. Seen from below, this last has a magnificent appearance

with a huge balcony winding around in the interior, with a heavy iron

railing. This is entered above by beautiful glass doors, opening from

an immense hall, large enough for a ball-room, with marble-tiled

floors. The stage has all the latest improvements, and the whole

theatre is a noble example of what taste can do when backed by immense

wealth. The governor’s private box, facing the stage, is magnificently

fitted up, with the coat-of-arms of the State in silver and bronze.

[Illustration: STREET SCENE IN AGUASCALIENTES.]

The law requires that all houses shall be kept freshly painted, so

that the city is bright in every quarter. The markets are particularly

interesting, with picturesque water-carriers, many fountains and novel

scenes. The statue of Hidalgo formerly occupied the Plaza de Armas,

but has been removed to a more important place and a kiosk erected

in its place. When the evenings are warm, as most of them are in San

Luis, the Plaza presents a most attractive appearance with families

promenading to the gay music under the silvery light of the moon or the

more brilliant radiance of the electric light. This historic city has

the record that here was made the first discovery of silver in Mexico,

which went so far as to found the country’s greatness. The tradition

is that early in the sixteenth century an Indian was climbing the San

Luis hills, when his foot slipped and to save himself he clutched at a

neighboring bush, which giving way beneath his weight, was uprooted and

exposed to view the native silver beneath.

San Luis is far advanced in education. There are many magnificent

schools. In the School of Arts and Trades for Girls are taught English

and French. There are civil and military schools, and hospitals, all of

which are supported by the government.

[Illustration: THE BISHOP’S PALACE, MONTEREY.]

The governor of this State is José Maria Espinosa y Cuevas. The success

of the opening of the port at Tampico gave San Luis Potosí commercial

advantages equal if not superior to those of any other city in the

Republic of Mexico.

In the northern part of the State is the mining town of Catorce, “The

Silver City.” These mines were discovered by a group of fourteen

bandits and are the most celebrated in Mexico.

AGUASCALIENTES

Aguascalientes though one of the smallest is one of the most

interesting States in Mexico. The eastern district consists of

tablelands six thousand feet above sea-level and the western portion

includes the Sierras of Laurel and Pinal, spurs of the Sierra Madre.

The tablelands produce abundant crops of cereals. The capital is

Aguascalientes, which means hot waters. It is an attractive city, noted

for its hot springs, well-appointed bath houses and healthful climate.

One of the most celebrated and well-attended fairs of the republic,

the Feast of San Marcos, is held at Aguascalientes in April of each

year and thousands of people from all parts of the country throng the

streets and plazas of this quaint old city. There are many special

attractions notably the beautiful needle-drawn work which is made by

the Indians and excels in beauty the celebrated Fayal work which is so

much better known.

The city takes its name from the warm mineral springs in its

neighborhood. The baths are reached by long avenues of superb

cottonwood trees. They are built of soft red stone and are much

frequented. On one side through a canal flows the surplus water from

the springs, which is used for bathing by those who are unable to pay

the small charge for the baths.

There is a handsome alameda. The country around is fertile and highly

cultivated. In the tropical altitudes of Mexico and in the hot spring

sections there is a sort of Egyptian disregard of the conventionalities

in attire and the disposition to take a daily fashion hint from the

Garden of Eden, the children disregarding even the fig leaf.

The water-carrier of Cairo is much like his brother of Mexico. The

groups about the fountains all over the republic have long earthen jars

of pottery borne by the women and balanced on the shoulders of the men

and look very oriental.

The climate is healthful and is noted for its constant sunshine. Many

invalids go there from the north. It is half way between the City of

Mexico and the northern border.

[Illustration: TEMPLE OF SAN MARCOS, AGUASCALIENTES.]

[Illustration: THE FEDERAL PALACE, QUERÉTARO.]

[Illustration: CONVENT OF THE CROSS WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS

IMPRISONED.]

Mexico(#79275) · 第 23 / 37 章