CHAPTER XX

VERA CRUZ

The State of Vera Cruz is one of the important states of the republic.

The climate has a range of temperature that rises from cool and bracing

to hot and stifling. It is pre-eminently agricultural and with the

exception of rich fields of mineral oil, and cattle-raising, which is a

lucrative source of revenue, the chief products of this fertile State

are coffee, bananas, sugar, vanilla and cotton. In the northwest is

the Huasteca region, the finest cattle lands on the continent, and in

the southwest, the Sotavente district is rich in agricultural soil and

watered by the mighty Paploapam.

The southern part of the State is open to colonization and there are

many foreign enterprises engaged in the principal industry of sugar

making.

The State is very liberal and progressive and under the administration

of the present Governor, Señor Don Teodora Dehesa, port-works,

water-works and sewers, drainage, public buildings and many other

advanced ideas of reform have been inaugurated.

The Federal Quarantine Station at Vera Cruz has been declared by health

experts as the most complete and thorough in existence. It can be now

recorded that the entire absence of yellow fever is assured. Vera Cruz

now enjoys the distinction of being the cleanest city in the republic.

[Illustration: POST OFFICE, VERA CRUZ.]

The City of Vera Cruz was founded in 1519, by Hernando Cortés. It was

at one time the capital of the State, but Jalapa is now the seat of

the government. It was built in a semi-circle fronting the sea, and

was formerly enclosed by a wall six feet high and three feet thick

and defended by two redoubts on shore and by the Castle of San Juan

de Ulua which stands on an island. The streets are regular and wide

and form many squares, and little plazas or parks, beautiful in rich

tropical flowers and trees which make the city very attractive. The

houses are strongly built of coral limestone in the old Spanish style.

It is an ideal spot for the traveler who enjoys a warm climate and

beautiful sun. Old churches, public buildings bearing the marks of

centuries, old convents that have stood the test of time, and beautiful

modern buildings are found side by side in sublime contrast. The

Municipal Palace was built in 1609, and the Public Library, in which

are wonderful old volumes and archives, was founded in 1870. There are

several beautiful churches, theatres, hospitals, an artillery school,

and a new post office.

[Illustration: OLD GATEWAY, ORIZABA.]

The lately constructed port-works have converted the ancient rockbound

roadstead along the Atlantic coast line into a safe and commodious

harbor. The protected harbor covers fifty-four acres. The length of the

breakwater is three thousand three hundred and thirty metres.

The present city of Vera Cruz is not the same that was built by

Cortés in the year 1519. The Villa Rica de Vera Cruz--“the rich town

of the true cross”--is six miles distant from the present city. The

inhabitants of this busy city are renowned for their culture, their

frank and simple manners and their patriotism, of which they have given

many proofs in the various sieges which the town has sustained against

foreign foes, thus justifying the appellation of “heroic” given to it.

[Illustration: INDIAN WOMEN IN THE TROPICS.]

Nowhere in Mexico is there a more beautiful spot than the City of

Jalapa. When the atmosphere is clear, one can see the shipping in the

harbor of Vera Cruz with an ordinary spy glass and the white caps of

the waves with the naked eye. The elevation of Jalapa above the sea is

a little more than four thousand feet. It is situated on a shelf of

the mountain, the summit of which at Perote, a distance in a direct

line of about twenty miles, is four thousand five hundred feet higher

than Jalapa. The whole horizon, except in the direction of Vera Cruz,

is bounded by mountains--among them Orizaba, distant from Jalapa about

twenty-five miles, though owing to the clearness of the atmosphere and

the sun shining upon the snow with which it is covered it appears to

be much nearer. All the tropical fruits grow in the district, and are

cultivated with great care and skill. It is not an exaggeration to say

that it is impossible for one who has not been on the tableland of

Mexico to conceive of a climate so elysian.

[Illustration: NORMAL SCHOOL FOR PROFESSORS, JALAPA.]

Jalapa is indeed a rare old place. It seems to be built on edge, with

streets like stairs climbing the hills, while terraced houses cling to

the hillsides.

Orizaba lies about midway between the two extremes of the coast and the

plateau. It is one of the busiest manufacturing towns of Mexico. It is

on the line of the oldest railway in the country, within easy access of

the interior cities.

The town of Coatzacoalcos is at the mouth of the river of the same

name, and is one of the few places that look like an American town.

It is growing rapidly and has the second finest port-works on the

continent.

On the Mexican Railroad, Cordoba, nestling under the shadow of the

snow-capped peak of Orizaba is a tropical refuge for many travelers

seeking sunshine. Fruits, flowers, palms and ferns grow in abundance.

In this tropical part of Mexico one finds many beautiful pictures that

would look almost unreal if painted on canvas.

The red-brown coloring of the Indians in their costumes and the

half-naked children basking in the sun or enjoying the shade of the

verdant palms, and the perfume of the flowers that permeates the

atmosphere almost transport one with enthusiasm and enjoyment.

[Illustration: PICTURESQUE SCENE NEAR SALAZAR.]

In Cordoba grows the finest coffee in the world. The loveliest scene on

Nature’s canvas is a coffee plantation. The leaves of the plant are a

very dark green, the flowers white and freighted with a rich aromatic

incense, and the berries are deep red. This bean is cultivated with

great care. The shrub is graceful and drooping and the flower is as

sweet as the orange blossom.

The State of Vera Cruz is rapidly gaining fame for the variety, beauty

and sublimity of its scenic attractions.

[Illustration: THE HARBOR, VERA CRUZ.]

The Castle of San Juan de Ulua, which was the last foothold of the

Spaniards in Mexico, was surrendered by them to the patriots in 1825.

In 1838, Vera Cruz was bombarded and taken by the French and again in

1847, by the Americans, under General Scott. It was surrendered to the

allied British, French and Spanish squadron in December, 1861, and was

restored to Mexico in 1867.

The experience of three Mexican Revolutions makes it easier to conceive

the extent to which this unfortunate city must have suffered in the

struggle made by the Spaniards to preserve the Castle, their last

bulwark on this continent. San Juan de Ulua remains a lasting memorial

of the great works which, almost immediately after their arrival on

these shores, were undertaken by the Spanish conquerors.

[Illustration: OLD FORT OF SANTIAGO.]

[Illustration: TAMESI RIVER FRONT, TAMPICO.]

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