MEXICO
It would require many years of study to present an adequate idea of the
progress and enterprise that exist in the republic, and each state has
contributed its share toward the rapid advancement that has marked the
conditions within the past fifteen years.
The State of Mexico is one of the most important in the republic. It
is rich in mineral resources and picturesque in scenery. The people of
this state are active and ambitious.
Many extensive tracts of territory have been shorn from the empire
which was granted to Cortés as his reward for the conquest. Two other
whole states, Hidalgo and Morelos, were created out of Mexico and
Guerrero and the Federal District have also had parts of this state
added to them. Nearly ten thousand square miles are left, and upon this
territory live more than a million industrious people, many of whom
are of Indian descent. For purposes of government it is divided into
fifteen districts but Nature has divided the state by means of mountain
ranges into three almost distinct territories. The Valley of Mexico,
which extends into the Federal District is paralleled to the west
by the Valley of Toluca, in which the capital of the state, bearing
the same name, is situated. The third district comprises the slope
southwest of the main range toward the lowlands of Guerrero.
The soft named and beautiful capital of this interesting state nestles
at the foot of snow-crowned mountains, one of them the extinct volcano
from which it is named, whose peak looks silently down with the calm
of centuries upon this city of restless progress, as the still ages
might look down upon the on-rushing to-day. Her wide and well-paved
streets, her spacious plazas and shaded squares, the imposing
buildings, some gray with centuries, some new with the modern spirit
of the day, combined with the delightful situation and the grandeur of
the surrounding scenery, make the city one of surpassing interest and
beauty. Modern institutions devoted to education, progress, charity and
humanity have given Toluca the well-deserved reputation of being one of
the finest and best governed cities.
In the Valley of Mexico, which averages throughout the state the same
altitude as Mexico City, the principal pursuits are farming, cattle
raising, and manufacturing. The numerous small towns are reached by
branches of the national railroad system. Equally well provided with
transportation facilities are the towns in the Toluca Valley. The
average altitude here is above eight thousand feet, a thousand higher
than the Valley of Mexico, and the temperature is proportionally lower.
The air is wonderfully pure and the sanitary conditions exceptionally
good.
Toluca is only forty-five miles from Mexico City but, owing to the
intervening mountains, the journey occupies three hours. Here, almost
at the base of an extinct volcano, called the “White Mountain” by
the Spaniards, Cortés set up the headquarters of his seigniory. The
city to-day is one of the most pleasing in Mexico, with a large and
intelligent population and contains many buildings of interest. It is
built on both banks of the Xicualtenco River which is parallel to the
main thoroughfares. The streets are for the most part straight and are
always kept clean. The public squares and gardens are adorned with fine
monuments. There are many delightful spots and interesting places found
throughout the State of Mexico. Lofty peaks and deep barrancas, broad
meadows and narrow vales, inaccessible height and cultivated fields
succeed one another in delightful variety. The beauty of the scenery is
indescribable, now and then through the arched forest trees the snowy
volcanoes with their distant domes and the silvery lakes of the Valley
of Mexico greet the vision.
The ruins of an old Carmelite Convent standing on the slope of a
hill are surrounded by noble forests of pine and oak and cedar--long
and lofty forest-aisles, where the monks of former days wandered in
peaceful meditation. Some poor Indians live among the ruins and possess
the undisputed sovereignty of the woods. It is said that a benighted
traveler who had lost his way in these solitudes and was miraculously
saved from dying of cold, founded this rich convent of Carmelite
Monks, in gratitude for his deliverance, expressing his desire that
all travelers that passed that way should receive hospitality from the
convent. Certainly no place more fitted for devotion could have been
selected than this mountain retreat.
[Illustration: GENERAL FERNANDO GONZALEZ.]
The way to Lerma is through a massive stone gateway from which the
gates were removed long ago. The streets are broad but straggling,
the houses comfortable rather than grand or even elegant and the many
eucalyptus trees planted around the picturesque adobe and stone church
date back to the time of Maximilian. Across the way from the church
is an old grave-yard which is indisputably ancient, as the graves of
the Spanish conquerors, nine in number, are marked with limestone slabs
dated over four centuries ago. It is a custom among the Mexican Indians
to sell pebbles from these graves to tourists who are always eager to
carry away souvenirs from a spot of historical renown.
[Illustration: GOVERNOR’S PALACE.]
High in mid-air the climate of the State of Mexico leaves nothing to be
desired by those to whom pure air without clean cutting winds, bright
sun that does not scorch, and abundance of pure water melted from the
eternal glistening snows, are indispensable. It is such that brings
contentment and peace the year around, without undue lassitude at any
time. Its variety permits the production of all classes of crops;
wheat, Indian corn, and other cereals grow in abundant harvests in
the valleys of Toluca, Iztlahuaca, Tenango, and Tezcoco, while sugar
cane, coffee, and other tropical products grow in the districts of
Temascaltepec, Tenancingo and other southern districts. The forest
products are remarkable for their diversity and richness.
The raising of cattle is one of the principal resources of this state,
and is increasing rapidly each year. The annual product is exceedingly
great, but pastoral life is giving way to more modern methods of
existence. The railroads going through these vast plains around
and among these lofty mountains are doing away with the primitive
conditions that have existed.
Toluca, the capital of the State, is united to Mexico City by the
Mexican National Railway which traverses a most picturesque route
all the way to San Luis Potosí. All the railways which centre in the
metropolis cross the state giving it ready exportations for all its
products. The Mexican National route also gives communication northward
with the rest of the world.
[Illustration: MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS.]
Practically all of the towns in the two valleys are lighted by
electricity generated from hydraulic sources. In Tenancingo is the
plant of the Toluca Electric Light and Power Company, which furnishes
light and power to the home town, to Tenango, Calimaya, Tienguistenco
and Toluca. In Tenancingo a local stream runs the big cotton spinning
and weaving plant of La Guadalupe. In Sultepec water runs the smelter
of La Concepcion, lights a district, supplies power to the mines
and other reduction plants and has five hundred horse-power for the
machinery of the Toluca Brewery. Mills at Calimaya, San Ildefonso and
numerous other points making cotton cloth, woollen goods and paper all
get their power from similar sources. Besides having plenty of water
power, an abundance of labor, fertile farms and pastures, the two
valleys are also rich in mineral wealth. Some of the most beautiful
marble found in the world is quarried here and the mining industry is
very much developed. There are mines producing gold, silver, lead and
quicksilver. The best known of these are El Oro and Esperanza, whose
British and American owners are quite frank in making their gains
public.
In the Sultepec district is another great producer, “La Quimica,” owned
by Germans who are more reticent but who are known to ship a great
amount of bullion. Besides these there is a host of minor shipping
mines and the possibilities of a great range of country which has not
been thoroughly prospected, notwithstanding the fact that the mines of
this state have been worked for hundreds of years. Many of the mines
now yielding rich ores are those once worked by primitive processes and
were deserted because they were thought not to be worth the trouble.
Modern crushing machinery, smelters, and chemical reduction works find
a rich profit in these mines.
[Illustration: MUNICIPAL PALACE.]
In the mines of Temascaltepec and Zacualpam, as in those of Oro, the
profits are large; gold, silver, lead, iron, and copper being obtained
in large quantities. The supply of sulphur from the great snow-capped
mountain, Popocatepetl, is enormous. There is in this district coal of
excellent quality and zinc is found in the form of blendes, accompanied
by silver ore. The mining activity in this state is increasing every
year, the Tejupilco district is being steadily developed and the
Sultepec district, eighty kilometres southwest from Toluca is the
centre of an extensive metalliferous zone running from Angangueo to
Taxco, both famous mining camps. There are many veins in exploitation
though some of them remain to be worked. Among these are: El Cobre,
Maravillas, Laura, La Providencia, Alejo, La Soledad, San Luis and
others. In all these it is observed that the richness of the vein gives
great promise although the prospectors are very reticent concerning
their yieldings.
Besides having the mineral wealth itself, this state also is
particularly well provided with the means of uncovering its buried
riches. There is an abundance of lumber for timbering shafts, of
water power to run hoisting and crushing machinery, and of the most
docile labor, which is still cheap, though the competition of mills is
gradually raising the scale of compensation.
[Illustration: TEMPLE OF VERA CRUZ, TOLUCA.]
The third great natural section of the state drops in terraces in the
southwest from an altitude of a mile and a half almost to sea level. On
the upper ranges, as in the valleys of Toluca and Mexico, the crops are
those of the temperate zone, corn predominating, and there is also much
cattle raising. As the slopes fall, however, the natural products verge
into the tropical: sugar, coffee, cotton, rubber and the citrous fruits
abound.
The Indian population of the state is a peaceful, law abiding people
understanding and speaking Spanish and having entirely forgotten their
primitive tongues. They do not mix in political matters but manifest
a great interest in education, for which reason the governor of the
state has insisted on plenty of schools being built in the districts,
to which these Indians, in most cases, gladly contribute their personal
labor.
Toluca lies in the centre of the fertile plains west of the Sierra
Madre. It is one of the cleanest cities in the country. The citizens
are intelligent and well educated and their school system is of the
highest standard. There is a splendid Girls’ and Boys’ Normal School
of Arts and Trades, largely for the purpose of elevating the ignorant
and inferior classes. In this school are many of the Mazahuatl, Otoli,
and Aztec indigenes, whose ambition is to become teachers in their
respective villages.
[Illustration: LEGISLATIVE PALACE, TOLUCA.]
The literary institute of Toluca has been reorganized as the Scientific
and Literary Institute of the State of Mexico. Public charities are
also well organized. There is a general hospital in the city and local
hospitals in each of the cities of Sultepec, Jilotepec, Tlalnepantla,
Tezcoco, Valle de Bravo and all the small villages and mining
districts. There are asylums for boys and girls and education is
compulsory.
The penitentiary is a spacious and sanitary institution where all
the machinery is run by steam power and the establishment lighted by
electricity. The object of this institution is the reformation of the
criminal and the abolition of the death penalty. Humanitarian ideas are
evident at all stages of one’s progress through this model prison. Each
prisoner has his hour for instruction and the classes run from primary
to the higher standard according to the knowledge of the prisoner, and
by this system he is able to earn an honest livelihood by handicraft
when he is liberated.
Industrially the city is very well advanced. There are woollen mills
which produce handsome cloths. In this country industry has made such
rapid strides that it is fast becoming a manufacturing centre. Most of
the factories of the state are located near water powers, notably in
the capital is the site of one of the largest breweries in Mexico.
[Illustration: PALACE OF JUSTICE.]
Most of the public buildings are of comparatively recent construction.
The Palace of the Government, though it occupies the site of one built
by Martin Cortés, son of the Conqueror, was not erected till 1872. It
faces the Garden of the Martyrs. In its main hall is a collection of
portraits of the early Governors of the State. The public offices are
elegant and commodious and the reception room is magnificent in every
detail. Other handsome buildings are the City Hall, the Maternity
Hospital, Schools of Law, School of Arts and Crafts, and the Normal
School, all of which are modern and beautifully constructed. The Public
Library, containing many thousands of volumes, is also rich in original
manuscript archives, and is much consulted by historians of the earlier
periods of Mexico. The public market is of late construction and is one
of the finest and most sanitary in the republic. Here all classes of
goods are sold, from the products of the country, pottery and meats to
the cloth that is woven in the mills, and the most picturesque sight
that one can imagine is the Indians in their native costumes squatting
in the market square, offering their goods. It is here that one sees
the people face to face in their native dress, and receives valuable
impressions of their customs and the products of the country.
[Illustration: INDEPENDENCE AVENUE, TOLUCA.]
The Parochial Church dates back to the days of the Conquest. It
was restored and enlarged in 1585. There are a number of other old
churches, some of very large size, all noted for their beautiful
paintings, their altars, and rich tapestries, one of which has a famous
chime of bells and a very large organ. The public monuments are very
notable. There are two of Hidalgo, one of Columbus and many others. In
almost every park there are evidences of patriotic feeling, either a
fountain dedicated to some hero or a tablet inscribed to the Martyrs of
the War of Independence.
[Illustration: SCHOOL OF LAW.]
The beautiful alameda, the rendezvous for the élite of the city on
fête days and on Sundays is one of the most perfect parks in the
republic. It is the result of the strenuous efforts of all the public
officials to make the State of Mexico famous for its advancement and
improvement. In this beautiful display of verdure, drive, and lakelets,
worthy features have been added to the well-known beauty of Toluca.
Entering this lovely park by wide arched gateways one is confronted by
a masterpiece of art and industry. Swans gliding in the waters of the
lakes curve their long necks to greet the visitor; deer already tamed
by young children come forward sniffing a glad welcome, and on days of
fiesta gather lovely señoritas, clad in delicate gowns, gay parasols,
colors, everything pertaining to gladness and beauty. There one has
the opportunity of studying a phase of life among the young folks in
this vast country of beautiful customs. The women of this country are
gentle, beautiful, tender, loving mothers, gracious and gifted, devoted
to their husbands, and make their home-life all that is to be desired.
[Illustration: NORMAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS.]
[Illustration: MATERNITY HOSPITAL.]
In 1519, Cortés found the people of Toluca the most prosperous and
advanced of the subjects of Montezuma. From the deposits of precious
stones in Toluca the Spanish had a splendid revenue and the mountain
sides yielded emeralds, sapphires and garnets for the markets of
Europe. Near the city may be seen the stone foundations laid for the
structure of a home which the Conqueror began for the comfort of
his old and wounded soldiers. This plan was not carried further on
account of the changes in the fortune of this ambitious man. There is
a splendid automobile road which leads from Mexico City to Toluca and
it is very popular on account of the beautiful scenery. Many tourists
find this a pleasing trip to make. Leaving the capital, one passes
Chapultepec and all the outlying villages of the Valley of Mexico.
Old temples rise majestically before the traveler and the swift ride
up the Sierra Madre over cañons on the mountain crest looking down
hundreds of feet into the valleys one has a vision of Toluca that can
hardly be described. In going there from Mexico City, the way leads
down the beautiful Paseo de la Reforma and takes one through Tacubaya
and over a great mountain wall. The climbing begins to get very steep
especially after leaving the pine belt. The fir trees in this region
resemble the hemlock spruce but have a different arrangement of the
needles. Polypodium ferns grow in tufts on every hand and cardinal
flowers abound. Scarlet and blue tanagers fly about everywhere. There
are also sparrow hawks even more beautiful in plumage; doves unusually
brilliant in color and parrots of every hue and variety. On the crest
of the mountain that divides the country of the Tolucans from the City
of Mexico the character of the vegetation suddenly and marvelously
changes. Here in the same altitude, but facing a warmer sun and milder
winds, are forests of tropical trees. Mahogany and tangerine orange
trees are seen and the ground is green with the grazing plant known as
_alfilerea_. Half way down the mountain range is a wide plateau,
and about half a mile from it, is the historic field, Las Cruces. The
spot is marked by an obelisk, about thirty feet high made of limestone
set upon a heavy foundation of concrete. This is the scene of the
first real victory of the Mexicans over the Spaniards in the war of
1810. It was here that the great patriot Hidalgo with his band of
followers drove back the royalist troops with heavy loss. It was this
great victory that gave the Mexicans self-confidence and proved to them
that they might, under proper conditions, defeat the well-trained and
completely armed soldiers of the Spanish viceroys.
[Illustration: TEMPLE OF MERCED.]
On the same plateau is the old town of Las Cruces. The population
is very small and its livelihood is derived entirely from the sale
of toys, silver filigree work and beautifully polished woods of the
mountain forests. Leaving Las Cruces the soil becomes well-watered and
very fertile. Hundreds of farmers at their work in their fields of
alfalfa, barley and maguey, and laborers in orchards of olives, prunes
and native fruits, give life to the country. The peak of Toluca is more
than sixteen thousand feet high but is not snow covered. There is an
extensive snow field on its summit but this is hidden from view. The
wind blows fine jets from the hidden snow field and this gives the
mountain the appearance of smoking. In the early days of Montezuma the
Aztecs regarded Toluca as having a supernatural power and many stories
told of spirits hovering over the people lend attractive legends to the
folklore. On the plains, the Lerma River, which is one of the great
waters of Mexico, flows like a ribbon of silver toward Lake Chapala,
from this it runs north and taking the name of Rio Grande de Santiago
rolls onward to the Pacific Ocean, into which it flows near San Blas.
The City of Lerma is on the rocky eminence, and the bell tower and dome
of its famous church are very conspicuous, gleaming in the air. The
whole plain rises gently from the marsh land at the foot of the hills
and sweeps up to the base of the great mountain range of which the peak
of Toluca is the culmination. Far as the eye can reach the soil is
cultivated and gives evidence of lavish care. The variegated coloring
of the fields planted in different varieties of grains, gives it the
appearance of a mammoth checker-board. Everywhere are big villages or
imposing haciendas. One of these, perched upon the last slope of the
hillside, might have been taken bodily from one of the Italian cantons
of Switzerland.
In the outskirts of Toluca are two elaborate shrines where, often, one
may see a group of farmers and laborers who have stopped on their way
home to offer prayer. This is not confined to the class of Indians, for
often a rich haciendado is seen passing on his horse to oversee his
workmen, stopping there, too, to offer his prayers of thanksgiving.
[Illustration: STATE BANK.]
The little village of Otumba, about thirty miles from Mexico, was the
scene of one of Cortés’s greatest battles. Chalco is a little Indian
town, and has great historical value. The Chalcas were a determined
enemy of the Aztecs, and only after struggles, in which they were
notably brave and daring, were they defeated by the combined forces of
the armies of Mexico and Atzcapotzalco. They afterward became a part of
the Aztec confederacy. The land of Chalco is one of the most productive
parts of Mexico, as what was once a great lake is now the most fertile
land that exists in the valley.
The Governor of the State, Brigadier-general Fernando Gonzalez, is
the son of an illustrious father, Manuel Gonzalez, who is known to
history as one of the great presidents of Mexico. Governor Gonzalez
has a brilliant record of thirty-two years of splendid service to his
country, and the people of the State of Mexico, recognize in him an
able and enthusiastic ruler. He is progressive, strong and able to
handle affairs pertaining to the welfare of his State, and universal
satisfaction is felt at his continuing in office a second term. No
governor has ever had the ovation he received on the occasion of his
re-election. Under his administration the State has greatly prospered
and he maintains the strictest discipline among the rural guards,
causes the roads to be kept in repair, and has greatly advanced the
public school system in efficiency. The rural schools and those in
the mining districts are the objects of his great interest and the
reputation that this State enjoys for a splendid school system has been
the result of the indefatigable labors of this distinguished man.
During the feast of the Centennial, the State of Mexico entered into
the spirit of the celebration with great enthusiasm, entertainments
being most brilliant.
The State of Mexico has earned her laurels as a well governed
progressive State, probably as much as any State in the Union for she
is better supplied with good roads, splendid railway communications,
good service of telegraph and telephone lines, while the postal system
is said to be the best regulated in the republic.
[Illustration: GENERAL HOSPITAL.]
It is not difficult to understand why the State of Mexico is considered
the most prosperous in the republic. It is one of the fertile States
and occupies one of the most beautiful positions that can be seen in
any part of the world. Nature is seen in almost all her phases; forest,
green fields, snow-covered volcanoes, fertile lands and flowing rivers.
What more superb setting can be found for so fair a jewel!
[Illustration: MUNICIPAL PALACE.]
[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF GENERAL MUCIO MARTINEZ.]