CHAPTER I

MEXICO

A HISTORY OF ITS PROGRESS AND DEVELOPMENT

IN ONE HUNDRED YEARS

[Illustration: _Copyright 1911 by G. Barrie & Sons_

_Porfirio Diaz_

GENERAL PORFIRIO DIAZ

PRESIDENT

OF THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO]

MEXICO

A HISTORY OF ITS PROGRESS AND DEVELOPMENT IN

ONE HUNDRED YEARS

BY

MARIE ROBINSON WRIGHT

MEMBER OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AMERICA, GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY

OF BRAZIL, GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF LA PAZ, GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF

MEXICO, HISTORICAL AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTE OF SÃO PAULO

[Illustration]

PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY

GEORGE BARRIE & SONS

LONDON: C. D. CAZENOVE & SON, 26 HENRIETTA STREET,

COVENT GARDEN, W. C.

PARIS: 19 RUE SCRIBE

COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY GEORGE BARRIE & SONS

TO HIS EXCELLENCY

General Porfirio Diaz

PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO

A GREAT MAN AMONG THE EMINENT MEN OF THE WORLD, WHO ON HIS

EIGHTIETH BIRTHDAY IS STILL ACTIVE IN BODY AND SOUL; A

POWERFUL ADMINISTRATOR OF THE SPIRITUAL AND

MATERIAL GOOD OF HIS COUNTRY

Is Dedicated

THIS STORY OF A HUNDRED YEARS OF INDEPENDENCE

MARIE ROBINSON WRIGHT

CONTENTS

PAGE

DEDICATION 5

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 9

INTRODUCTION 13

CHAPTER I

THE CONQUEST 17

CHAPTER II

VICEROYALTY 49

CHAPTER III

THE BATTLE FOR INDEPENDENCE 65

CHAPTER IV

THE BIRTH OF THE REPUBLIC 83

CHAPTER V

HISTORICAL EVENTS 105

CHAPTER VI

GENERAL PORFIRIO DIAZ 127

CHAPTER VII

THE CABINET 147

CHAPTER VIII

THE FEDERAL DISTRICT 159

CHAPTER IX

THE CENTENNIAL 179

CHAPTER X

CLUBS AND SOCIAL LIFE 203

CHAPTER XI

ART AND LITERATURE 219

CHAPTER XII

CHURCHES AND CHARITIES 235

CHAPTER XIII

EDUCATION 257

CHAPTER XIV

MEXICO 269

CHAPTER XV

PUEBLA 287

CHAPTER XVI

TLAXCALA 303

CHAPTER XVII

HIDALGO 315

CHAPTER XVIII

TRANSPORTATION 325

CHAPTER XIX

OAXACA 339

CHAPTER XX

VERA CRUZ 353

CHAPTER XXI

TAMAULIPAS 359

CHAPTER XXII

COAHUILA 369

CHAPTER XXIII

NUEVA LEÓN, SAN LUIS POTOSÍ, AGUASCALIENTES 373

CHAPTER XXIV

QUERÉTARO 383

CHAPTER XXV

ZACATECAS 387

CHAPTER XXVI

DURANGO 395

CHAPTER XXVII

CHIHUAHUA 401

CHAPTER XXVIII

JALISCO 411

CHAPTER XXIX

GUANAJUATO 421

CHAPTER XXX

COLIMA 425

CHAPTER XXXI

THE WEST COAST 433

CHAPTER XXXII

MICHOACÁN, MORELOS, GUERRERO 453

CHAPTER XXXIII

YUCATÁN 467

CHAPTER XXXIV

CAMPECHE, TABASCO, CHIAPAS 479

CHAPTER XXXV

CUSTOMS 487

CHAPTER XXXVI

RESOURCES 493

CHAPTER XXXVII

RUINS 505

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

GENERAL PORFIRIO DIAZ _Fronts._

ARMS OF MEXICO _Title page_

BAS-RELIEF ON THE STATUE OF CUAUHTEMOC 17

HERNANDO CORTÉS 18

THE VISIT OF CORTÉS TO MONTEZUMA 20

CARVING OF THE TIME OF THE VICEROYALTY 22

HOUSE OF CORTÉS AT COYOACAN 25

THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE 26

THE FOUNDING OF THE CITY OF MEXICO 28

THE WOODS OF CHAPULTEPEC 30

THE AZTEC CALENDAR STONE 32

XOCHITL PRESENTING PULQUE TO TEPANCALTZIN 35

AZTEC IDOL 39

BANNER CARRIED BY CORTÉS 43

PORT MARQUEZ WHERE CORTÉS BUILT HIS FLEET 46

CARVINGS: CHURCH OF SANTA ROSA, QUERÉTARO 48

BURNING OF THE FEET OF CUAUHTEMOC 49

DOOR OF THE HOUSE OF CONDE DE SANTIAGO 51

SACRIFICIAL STONE 53

PALACE OF ITURBIDE, NOW A FAMOUS OLD HOTEL 54

STATUE OF CHARLES IV. 55

CARVINGS ON THE CHURCH OF LA SANTISIMA 56

IDOLS IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 57

FOUNTAIN IN MEXICO CITY 58

STATUE OF CUAUHTEMOC 60

OLD CARVING OF THE TIME OF CORTÉS 62

THE MILITARY SCHOOL AT CHAPULTEPEC 64

GATEWAY: MILITARY SCHOOL AT CHAPULTEPEC 65

HIDALGO 67

JOSÉ MARIA MORELOS 68

HIDALGO’S PRISON AT CHIHUAHUA 69

ITURBIDE 71

THE LIBERTY BELL: NATIONAL PALACE 73

CYPRESS TREE, CHAPULTEPEC 76

HIDALGO ON HORSEBACK 77

RESIDENCE OF HIDALGO, AT DOLORES HIDALGO 80

THE NATIONAL PALACE 82

THE TOMB OF JUAREZ 83

BENITO JUAREZ 85

SEÑOR GENERAL DON RAMÓN CORONA 88

SEÑOR GENERAL DON MARIANO ESCOBEDO 89

RURALES ON THE 16TH OF SEPTEMBER 91

SEÑOR GENERAL DON MANUEL GONZALES 94

GENERAL CARLOS PACHECO 95

PICTURESQUE SPOT IN THE ALAMEDA 97

A COUNTRY ROAD IN THE VALLEY OF MEXICO 100

GENERAL PORFIRIO DIAZ 102

NATIONAL MUSEUM, SHOWING AZTEC RELICS 104

NATIONAL GEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE 105

GENERAL DIAZ AND PRESIDENT TAFT 107

STATUE OF COLUMBUS 109

THE POST OFFICE 111

POST OFFICE, WEST CORRIDOR 113

NATIONAL LIBRARY 115

HISTORICAL CORNER IN MEXICO CITY 118

A PART OF THE OLD AQUEDUCT OF CHAPULTEPEC 120

ROAD IN PUEBLA, SHOWING POPOCATEPETL 122

PRIVATE LIBRARY OF A PROMINENT LAWYER 124

CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC 126

THE PROCESSION OF THE 16TH OF SEPTEMBER 127

SEÑORA DOÑA CARMEN ROMERO RUBIO DE DIAZ 130

ESCORTING THE PRESIDENT ON THE 5TH OF MAY 132

THE TRIBUNAL, 5TH OF MAY 133

LIEUTENANT-COLONEL PORFIRIO DIAZ 135

CORRIDOR AT CHAPULTEPEC 137

STAIRWAY TO THE CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC 138

RECEPTION AT THE PALACE 139

CORRIDOR AT CHAPULTEPEC 141

PORFIRIO DIAZ, THE THIRD 143

SOLDIERS IN PARADE, 16TH OF SEPTEMBER 144

THE CORBIAN PALACE 146

PATIO OF THE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR 147

SEÑOR DON RAMÓN CORRAL, VICE-PRESIDENT 148

SEÑOR DON ENRIQUE C. CREEL 149

SEÑOR LIC. JOSÉ LIMANTOUR 150

SEÑOR ING. LEANDRO FERNANDEZ 150

SEÑOR LIC. OLEGARIO MOLINA 151

GENERAL MANUEL GONZÁLEZ COSÍO 152

SEÑOR LIC. JUSTO SIERRA 153

SEÑOR LIC. JUSTINO FERNÁNDEZ 154

THE LATE IGNACIO MARISCAL 155

CORRIDOR: SCHOOL OF ENGINEERING 156

STREET SCENE IN MEXICO CITY 158

COLONIA JUAREZ 159

SEÑOR DON GUILLERMO DE LANDA Y ESCANDON 161

HOME OF GOVERNOR LANDA Y ESCANDON 163

THE NEW LEGISLATIVE PALACE 165

HOME OF VICE-PRESIDENT CORRAL 167

THE PALACE OF MINES 169

SAN FRANCISCO STREET 171

POLICE HEADQUARTERS 172

AMERICAN EMBASSY 173

POLICEMAN 174

MEXICAN LETTER CARRIER 175

FEDERAL PENITENTIARY 176

GREAT HISTORICAL PARADE, SEPTEMBER 15, 1910 178

EMPEROR MONTEZUMA IN HIS PALANQUIN 179

MONUMENT OF INDEPENDENCE 182

PRIESTS AND SERVANTS OF CORTÉS 184

A PART OF THE HISTORICAL PARADE 186

NOBLEMEN WITH ESCORTS 189

SITE OF THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT. PRESENTED BY THE AMERICAN

COLONY 192

MONTEZUMA’S ARMY IN MILITARY PARADE 194

UNVEILING OF THE HUMBOLDT STATUE 196

THE JUAREZ MONUMENT 198

THE ARMY OF CORTÉS IN PARADE 200

RECEPTION HALL OF THE SPANISH CASINO 202

PATIO OF THE SPANISH CASINO 203

HISTORICAL STAIRWAY OF JOCKEY CLUB 206

THE JOCKEY CLUB 208

SEÑOR DON SEBASTAIN CAMACHO 210

FOUNTAIN IN THE PATIO OF THE JOCKEY CLUB 212

SEÑOR JOSÉ SANCHEZ RAMOS 214

STAIRWAY IN THE SPANISH CASINO 216

“ANAHUAC.” BY SEÑOR JORGE ENCISO 218

“THE MENDICANTS.” BY SUAREZ 219

GALLERY IN THE MODERN SCHOOL OF PAINTING 221

“AN EPISODE OF A FIRE.” BY G. CARRASCO 222

“THE FORTUNATES.” BY SATURNINO HERRAN 224

“THE ETERNAL VICTIM.” BY F. ROMANO 226

“A PORTRAIT.” BY HERMAN GEDOVIUS 228

“CHILDREN OF MISERY.” BY SOSTENES ORTEGO 231

“THE ROUND UP.” BY JUAN URRUCHI 232

CATHEDRAL, CITY OF MEXICO 234

WALL AROUND THE SHRINE AT CHURUBUSCO 235

DR. JOSÉ MORA, ARCHBISHOP OF MEXICO 236

THE CROWN OF THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE 237

THE SHRINE OF GUADALUPE 239

SANTA MONICA, GUADALUPE 240

ORGAN IN THE CATHEDRAL, MEXICO CITY 241

CHURCH NEAR COYOACAN 243

FAÇADE OF SAN AGUSTIN 244

THE SACRED WELL AT GUADALUPE 245

LUNATIC ASYLUM 247

THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, CITY OF MEXICO 250

THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL, FEDERAL DISTRICT 252

PAVILIONS OF THE GENERAL HOSPITAL 254

STAIRWAY IN THE COLLEGE OF THE MASCARONES 256

NATIONAL SCHOOL OF MEDICINE 257

PATIO OF THE SCHOOL OF MEDICINE 258

NATIONAL SCHOOL OF ENGINEERS 259

SCHOOL OF ARTS AND CRAFTS FOR MEN 260

SCHOOL OF ARTS AND CRAFTS FOR WOMEN 261

ENTRANCE TO SCHOOL OF ENGINEERS 262

SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS 262

STAIRCASE, SCHOOL OF ENGINEERS 263

NATIONAL PREPARATORY SCHOOL 264

COMMERCIAL SCHOOL 265

SAN CARLOS ACADEMY 266

MORELOS PARK, TOLUCA 268

STREET SCENE, TOLUCA 269

GENERAL FERNANDO GONZALEZ 271

GOVERNOR’S PALACE 272

MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS 273

MUNICIPAL PALACE 274

TEMPLE OF VERA CRUZ, TOLUCA 275

LEGISLATIVE PALACE, TOLUCA 276

PALACE OF JUSTICE 277

INDEPENDENCE AVENUE, TOLUCA 278

SCHOOL OF LAW 279

NORMAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 280

MATERNITY HOSPITAL 281

TEMPLE OF MERCED 282

STATE BANK 283

GENERAL HOSPITAL 284

MUNICIPAL PALACE 286

RESIDENCE OF GENERAL MUCIO MARTINEZ 287

MONUMENT TO NICOLAS BRAVO 288

GENERAL MUCIO MARTINEZ 289

STATUE OF GENERAL ZARAGOZA 290

STATE COLLEGE 291

CATHEDRAL 292

LA MATERNIDAD, PUEBLA 293

MONUMENT OF INDEPENDENCE, PUEBLA 294

RIM OF THE CRATER OF POPOCATEPETL 295

AN OLD CHURCH DOOR 296

THE ARCADE, PUEBLA 298

THE PENITENTIARY, PUEBLA 300

PORTALES, FACING THE PARK, TLAXCALA 302

AVENUE LEADING TO SAN FRANCISCO CONVENT 303

OLD CHURCH TOWER, TLAXCALA 305

SEÑOR CORONEL PROSPERO CAHUANTZI 306

ARCHWAY ENTRANCE: SAN FRANCISCO CONVENT 307

SACRED WELL OF OCOTLAN 308

RUINS OF THE ROYAL CHURCH, TLAXCALA 309

LA PARROQUIA 311

OLDEST PULPIT AND ALTAR IN AMERICA 312

ZOCALO IN REAL DEL MONTE 314

PANORAMA OF MINERAL DEL CHICO 315

GOVERNOR SEÑOR DON PEDRO RODRIGUEZ 316

THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE 317

SAN JULIO MINE 318

STATUE OF HIDALGO 319

HACIENDA LORETO 320

XATAL MINE 321

REAL DEL MONTE MINE 321

SAN RAFAEL MINE 322

OFFICE OF THE NATIONAL RAILWAY OF MEXICO 324

DEVIL’S BACKBONE, TOMASOPO CAÑON 325

OLDEST RAILWAY STATION IN THE WORLD 327

NOCHISTONGO CUT, BUILT BY THE AZTECS TO DRAIN THE VALLEY

OF MEXICO 328

ROCK BELOW CHONEBRIDGE, NATIONAL RAILWAY 329

TEQUIXQUIAC TUNNEL 330

CAÑON WEST SALAZAR, NATIONAL RAILWAY 331

VIEW ON THE INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY 332

DRY DOCK, SALINA CRUZ 333

TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE FEDERAL DISTRICT 334

TOMASOPO CAÑON 336

THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE 338

THE CATHEDRAL 339

STATUE OF BENITO JUAREZ 341

STATUE OF GENERAL ANTONIO DE LEÓN 342

FAÇADE OF THE CASINO 343

STAIRWAY: INSTITUTE OF ARTS AND SCIENCE 344

STATUE OF BENITO JUAREZ, ON THE MOUNTAIN OVERLOOKING HIS

NATIVE CITY 345

SEÑOR EMILIO PIMENTEL, GOVERNOR OF OAXACA 346

NORMAL SCHOOL FOR WOMEN 347

CORRIDOR: INSTITUTE OF ARTS AND SCIENCE 348

THE PORFIRIO DIAZ HIGH SCHOOL 350

THE CITY OF ORIZABA 352

THE PEAK OF ORIZABA 353

POST OFFICE, VERA CRUZ 354

OLD GATEWAY, ORIZABA 355

INDIAN WOMEN IN THE TROPICS 355

NORMAL SCHOOL FOR PROFESSORS, JALAPA 356

PICTURESQUE SCENE NEAR SALAZAR 357

THE HARBOR, VERA CRUZ 357

OLD FORT OF SANTIAGO 358

TAMESI RIVER FRONT, TAMPICO 359

SEÑOR DON JUAN B. CASTILLO, GOVERNOR OF TAMAULIPAS 360

AVENIDA PRIETO, GOVERNOR’S PALACE, VICTORIA 361

PLAZA JUAREZ, VICTORIA 361

PLAZA DE ARMAS, TAMPICO 362

A FIELD OF ZAPUPE 363

A TARPON 364

PLAZA, VICTORIA 365

TAMPICO PLAZA 366

NORMAL SCHOOL FOR PROFESSORS, SALTILLO 368

JUAREZ MARKET, SALTILLO 369

SEÑOR DON JESUS DE VALLE, GOVERNOR OF COAHUILA 370

GOVERNMENT PALACE, SALTILLO 371

STATE CIVIL COLLEGE, SALTILLO 372

GOVERNOR’S PALACE, MONTEREY 373

PLAZA ZARAGOZA 374

PALACE OF GOVERNOR, SAN LUIS POTOSÍ 375

CATHEDRAL, AGUASCALIENTES 376

THE BATHS AT AGUASCALIENTES 377

STREET SCENE IN AGUASCALIENTES 378

THE BISHOP’S PALACE, MONTEREY 379

TEMPLE OF SAN MARCOS, AGUASCALIENTES 380

THE FEDERAL PALACE, QUERÉTARO 382

CONVENT OF THE CROSS WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS IMPRISONED 383

AQUEDUCT AT QUERÉTARO 385

MEMORIAL CHAPEL TO MAXIMILIAN, MARKING THE PLACE OF

HIS EXECUTION 386

A GENERAL VIEW OF ZACATECAS 387

THE CATHEDRAL, ZACATECAS 388

FAÇADE OF CATHEDRAL 389

STREET SCENE, ZACATECAS 390

THE CHURCH OF GUADALUPE, ZACATECAS 392

THE CATHEDRAL, DURANGO 394

THEATRE, DURANGO 395

SEÑOR DON ESTEBAN FERNANDEZ, GOVERNOR OF DURANGO 396

GOVERNOR’S PALACE, DURANGO 397

SEÑOR DON ALBERTO CINCUNEGUI, SECRETARY OF STATE 398

CERRO DEL MERCADO 398

ENTRANCE TO PENITENTIARY, DURANGO 399

ALAMEDA, DURANGO 400

THE PALACE, CHIHUAHUA 401

STREET SCENE IN CHIHUAHUA 402

MONUMENT TO JUAREZ, CHIHUAHUA 403

STATUE OF HIDALGO, CHIHUAHUA 404

INTERIOR OF THE PALACE, CHIHUAHUA 405

RESIDENCE OF SEÑOR DON ENRIQUE C. CREEL, CHIHUAHUA 406

THEATRE OF THE HEROES, CHIHUAHUA 407

ARCHWAY OF THE OLD AQUEDUCT, CHIHUAHUA 408

FALLS OF JUANACATLAN, JALISCO 410

STREET SCENE, GUADALAJARA 411

GOVERNMENT PALACE, GUADALAJARA 413

STREET SCENE, GUADALAJARA 414

DEGOLLADO THEATRE, GUADALAJARA 415

THE HOSPICIO, GUADALAJARA 416

PATIO: AMERICAN CONSULATE, GUADALAJARA 417

LAKE CHAPALA, JALISCO 418

THE JUAREZ THEATRE, GUANAJUATO 420

VIEW OF THE PORFIRIO DIAZ TUNNEL, GUANAJUATO 421

EL CARMEN CHURCH, CELAYA 422

STREET SCENE, GUANAJUATO 423

THE MANUEL GONZALEZ DAM, GUANAJUATO 424

PLAZA, COLIMA 425

STREET SCENE, COLIMA 426

CATHEDRAL, COLIMA 426

AT THE FOOT OF COLIMA VOLCANO 427

MAGUAY GROWING AT THE FOOT OF THE COLIMA VOLCANO 427

RESIDENCE OF COLONEL EDGAR K. SMOOT, MANZANILLO 428

COLIMA IN ERUPTION 429

SUMMIT OF COLIMA VOLCANO 429

PACK TRAIN ON THE ROAD TO COLIMA 430

IRRIGATING CANAL, CULIACAN 432

ENTRANCE TO MAZATLAN 433

GOVERNOR DIEGO REDO, SINALOA 434

NEW MOUNTAIN ROAD AT MAZATLAN 435

THE HARBOR, MAZATLAN 436

PLAZA DE LA REPUBLICA, MAZATLAN 437

STREET SCENE, CULIACAN 438

SEÑOR DON JOAQUIN REDO 439

CUTTING SUGAR CANE, EL DORADO 439

AQUEDUCT, CULIACAN 440

PORTALES, CULIACAN 441

GENERAL LUIS TORRES, GOVERNOR OF SONORA 443

GOVERNMENT PALACE, HERMOSILLO 444

CATHEDRAL AT ALAMOS, SONORA 445

SEÑOR DON ALBERTO CUBILLAS, VICE-GOVERNOR OF SONORA 446

BAY AT GUAYMAS 447

BANK OF SONORA, GUAYMAS 448

RAMÓN CORRAL PARK, HERMOSILLO 448

YAQUI INDIANS 449

MUNICIPAL PALACE, GUAYMAS 450

LAKE PATZCUARO, MICHOACÁN 452

THE PLAZA, ZAMORA 453

CHURCHYARD GATE, TZINTZUNTZAN 455

SEÑOR DON PABLO ESCANDON, GOVERNOR OF MORELOS 456

PALACE OF CORTÉS, CUERNAVACA 457

FLYING BUTTRESS, CUERNAVACA 458

LA BORDA GARDEN, CUERNAVACA 459

SEÑOR DON DAMIAN FLORES, GOVERNOR OF GUERRERO 461

THE PALACE, CHILPANCINGO 462

TAMARINDO TREES, IGUALLA 463

BALSAS RIVER, GUERRERO 464

HOME OF SEÑOR DON AUGUSTO PEON, MERIDA 466

THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE, GRAND PLAZA 467

SEÑOR DON ENRIQUE M. ARISTEGÚI, GOVERNOR OF YUCATÁN 468

SEÑOR DON AUGUSTO PEON 469

VIEW OF MERIDA 470

HIS GRACE, MONSEIGNOR MARTIN TRISHLER, FIRST ARCHBISHOP

OF YUCATÁN 471

CORRIDOR OF THE CURATE HOUSE, MERIDA 472

MODEL SCHOOL FOR BOYS, MERIDA 472

THE PEON CONTRERAS THEATRE 473

FAÇADE OF THE MONTEJO HOUSE, MERIDA 474

INDIAN HEMP CUTTER 474

JUAREZ PENITENTIARY, MERIDA 475

STAIRWAY IN THE PEON CONTRERAS THEATRE 476

ARCH TO CELEBRATE THE CENTENNIAL, MERIDA 476

PLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA, CAMPECHE 478

THE CATHEDRAL, CAMPECHE 479

PALACE OF JUSTICE, CAMPECHE 480

STATUE OF HIDALGO, CAMPECHE 481

GENERAL ABRAHAM BANDALA, GOVERNOR OF TABASCO 482

STREET SCENE, SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 483

STATUE OF JUAREZ, SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 484

PARK IN SAN JUAN BAUTISTA 485

PAROCHIAL CHURCH, CHIAPA 486

YAQUI INDIAN DANCE 487

INDIAN MAIDEN WATER CARRIER 488

TYPE OF TEHUANTEPEC WOMAN 489

IN RIDING COSTUME--CHARRO SUITS 490

A TYPE OF THE MAYA WOMAN, YUCATÁN 491

MEXICAN BASKET SELLERS 492

SAN BARTOLO MINE, ZACATECAS 493

SUGAR MILL, ATEQUIZA HACIENDA 495

PULQUE VATS 496

BOUNDARY LINE BETWEEN JALISCO AND TEPIC 497

AVENUE OF DATE PALMS, SONORA 498

A COFFEE AND BANANA PLANTATION 499

COFFEE PLANTATION NEAR CORDOBA 500

PACK TRAIN WITH SUGAR ON THE ROAD TO MARKET 502

“GOVERNMENT HOUSE,” UXMAL, YUCATÁN 504

CHAC-MOOL IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM, CITY OF MEXICO 505

RUINS AT MITLA 506

SEPULCHRE, NEAR MITLA, OAXACA 506

ARCH OF THE “GOVERNMENT HOUSE,” UXMAL, YUCATÁN 507

CHICHEN-ITZA, YUCATÁN 508

RUINS AT MITLA, OAXACA 509

PYRAMID OF THE SUN, SAN JUAN TEOTIHUACAN 509

RUINS OF PALENQUE, CHIAPAS 510

“HOUSE OF THE DOVES,” UXMAL, YUCATÁN 511

INTRODUCTION

In 1896 I travelled throughout Mexico and made a complete study of the

country, visiting every State and Territory, gathering valuable data

for my book, _Picturesque Mexico_, which was published in 1897. With

the exception of the warm welcome extended me on my return in 1910, I

scarcely knew Mexico of fourteen years ago. Everywhere is progress and

the social development was a revelation to me. This time I travelled

over highways and byways in palace cars instead of stage coaches,

litters, and muleback.

Through intimate knowledge of Mexico and her people gained during these

extended tours, and through the enjoyment of official courtesies and

private hospitality of a most gracious nation, I have been able to get

from the best sources interesting features of the national life and

history.

I realize more than ever how meagre is the information of the general

public outside Mexico, of the beauties and resources of this marvellous

country. She holds her proud place in the world as a demonstration of

what statesmanship and good government can accomplish.

Mexico has just completed her hundredth anniversary of freedom from

Spanish rule. The Sociedade de Geographia do Rio de Janeiro, of which I

am an honorary member, sent me as a delegate to this centennial, and as

a participant in these festivities gathered much accurate information

concerning this jubilee, which not only marked a great era in the

history of Mexico, but celebrated the eightieth birthday of the Grand

Old Man of the Americas, General Porfirio Diaz, who for nearly half a

century has been the honored and beloved president.

This present MEXICO tells a story of a hundred years of the republic;

of a struggle for independence and her freedom. It is historical and

descriptive, but does not in any way deal with the political affairs of

the day. I am grateful for all the courtesies which I have received in

this hospitable land.

To the President of the Republic, to the Governors of the States, and

to the distinguished officials of the National Railways of Mexico, I

wish to extend my sincere and kind appreciation. I am indebted to Mr.

C. B. Waite for permission to use some of his copyrighted views, and to

Mr. C. F. Clarke, for many photographs.

M. R. W.

_Chislehurst, New Rochelle, N. Y., December 26, 1910._

MEXICO

[Illustration: BAS-RELIEF ON THE STATUE OF CUAUHTEMOC.]

CHAPTER I

THE CONQUEST

The history of Mexico is an inspiring one, filled with tragic eras.

The earliest inhabitants known were the Toltecs, who came from Central

America in the seventh century. They were proficient in many crafts and

erected gigantic temples, traces of which have been found in all parts

of the Republic. This race was followed by the Aztecs, or Mexicans,

in the fourteenth century. These were scattered throughout the Valley

of Mexico and their warlike deeds of bravery have formed many a theme

for beautiful stories. After two centuries they became a semi-barbaric

nation, living in the glory of the natural wealth of their country. A

great chieftain, Montezuma, was their monarch, and at the head of their

vast army.

When the resources of this great land became suspected by European

powers, four hundred years ago, each nation greedily sought to grasp

her opportunity of adding to her riches this new field. Spain was more

determined and appointed willing subjects to make voyages of discovery

to the great unknown country. The first explorer to visit Mexico was

Hernandez de Cordova, in 1517, but his discoveries lay about the coast

of Yucatan and his brilliant reports caused a thirst for the conquest

of the new land.

The siren voices of gold and glory perpetually sounded in the ears of

Spanish adventurers, stirred their ambitions and nerved them to deeds

of unforgotten bravery.

Columbus had found gold in the strange lands he had discovered in the

West Indies, he had tracked it westward in 1498, as he found the Island

of Trinidad, threaded the waters of the Gulf of Paria, sighted the

great continent southward and later discovered the Isthmus of Panama,

then called Veragua. But Mexico, the land of surpassing beauty and

wealth that was to be the rarest jewel of the Spanish possessions, the

land that was to give forth inexhaustible riches to fill the dwindling

treasury of Spain, and to sustain her waning power, was yet unknown.

Spanish rule had been planted in the Islands of San Domingo, Cuba and

Porto Rico. The thirst for gold and glory grew with the enjoyment of

their possession. Settlement established, the representatives of the

Spanish Crown made seats of government new centres for extension of

Spanish dominion.

[Illustration: HERNANDO CORTÉS.]

When the news reached Spain, in 1499, of the discovery of Paria by

Columbus a year previously, Alonso de Hojeda, who had been one of the

companions of Columbus, set out with Juan de Cosa, as chief pilot, and

Americo Vespucci. They followed the route and took a course south of

his, sighting the coast of Surinam, thence to the Gulf of Paria to the

Island of Curaçao, and afterward to the Gulf of Venezuela. As a result

of this marvellous accomplishment vast and undreamed of wealth soon

poured into Spain.

The governors of the settlements established were men whose

imaginations were soon fired with the prospect of vast powers and

unlimited wealth to be seized. Even yet it was not known what continent

had been found. The barrier, narrow as it was, that stood between

the Pacific and Columbus had not been penetrated. The mystery of the

continent was still unsolved, the vast and prolific countries that

stretched north and south of the Gulf of Mexico were unknown lands.

Among the numerous Spaniards who sought to unveil the mystery of the

continent and to plant new colonies for Spain was Nuñez de Balboa,

who undertook to colonize Darien, and in 1513 crossed the Isthmus of

Panama and in defining the limit of the continent there discovered the

Pacific, which he named the South Sea, and claimed it and the islands

lying on it in the name of his sovereign.

The first navigator of the Gulf of Mexico was Hernandez de Cordova,

who, in 1517, sailed from Cuba, where he was stationed in the service

of Spain, on a slaving expedition among the Bahamas. Contrary winds

drew him to an unknown coast, where he landed and found the first

sign of that advanced culture which distinguished Mexico among

the discovered countries. This place he called Yucatan. Here the

natives were found to be dwelling in houses of stone and mortar and

wore garments of well-woven cloth. They worshipped in magnificently

carved temples adorned with idols and ornaments of gold. But to gain

possession of this prize the Spaniards had a long and bitter struggle.

At Champoton they narrowly escaped destruction by the natives, whose

military organization proved remarkable. Against such a force the valor

and arms of the invader had to yield. But Cordova had sailed around the

peninsula to Campeche, Champoton and the River Estero de los Lagartos;

thence he returned to Santiago de Cuba, laden with wonderful spoils.

Amongst his acquisitions were crowns and ducks of gold, fish and idols.

Much encouragement was found in the declaration of two native captives

of the expedition that there were gold mines and gold dust in abundance

in their country, the fame of which soon reached Spain.

[Illustration: THE VISIT OF CORTÉS TO MONTEZUMA.]

The governor, Velasquez, elated with the reports of Cordova fitted out

a large expedition the following year, of which his nephew Juan de

Grijalva was given chief command. Following the course of Cordova, Juan

de Grijalva found difficulty at first in securing the friendship of the

natives, but he was able later to obtain much gold in barter. Learning

that precious metals could be found in a country called Mexico, he

sailed northward and made many discoveries along the Mexican Coast,

among others the Island of San Juan de Ulua, in the harbor of Vera

Cruz, and the Tabasco River. It is recorded by Bernal Diaz, who was a

contemporary of Cortés, that on one occasion the explorers, believing

that the highly polished axes, with curiously carved handles, of the

people of Guascasualco, were made of an inferior gold, were to discover

when they exchanged trinkets for them, that they were simply finely

polished copper. Notwithstanding this fact, Velasquez was determined on

a thorough exploration of Mexico and he appointed Cortés to the command

of a new expedition, which set out from Cuba on the tenth of February,

1519, in twelve vessels carrying seven hundred men. It was not without

jealous misgivings that the governor saw this intrepid leader depart,

nor, as events proved, was he mistaken in his suspicion regarding

the great ambition of Cortés. The expedition reached Trinidad, where

Velasquez having determined to replace Cortés sent vessels to detain

him, but he had departed on February 18, 1519, and reached the shores

of the unknown land in March, 1519. His little force was awaiting him

at the Island of Cozumel, near the extreme point of the Peninsula of

Yucatan, whence it sailed with two hundred Indian slaves and sixteen

horses. This was the power with which the great Aztec land was to be

won and the proud ascendancy of Montezuma to be overthrown. The roll of

companions of the daring leader included many names that were to become

imperishably recorded in the history of Spanish America. Among them

were the brilliant Pedro de Alvarado, Alonso de Avila, Cristobal de

Olid, Francisco de Montejo, Diego de Ordaz, Velasquez de León, Alonso

Puertocarrero and Antón Alaminos.

The solemn directions to Cortés were that he should explore the country

discovered by Cordova; restore to freedom the Spanish held in captivity

by the Indians; convert the natives to the Christian faith and barter

with them; and, finally, to use the most scrupulous care to omit

nothing that might redound to the service of God or his sovereign.

Reaching the Tabasco River, which Grijalva had discovered a year

before, following the course of that explorer, Cortés landed and gained

the first glimpse of that civilization of which had been told such

wonderful stories. The people were of advanced culture, the houses were

substantially built and the natives wore rich and beautiful garments.

That first intercourse was also to give a foretaste of the struggle

before him. The Totonacs were the rulers of the land, they were subject

to the authority of the Aztecs, but made desperate because of the

tribute they were compelled to pay and the severe treatment accorded to

them, they were not unwilling to see in the new comers allies to them

in their struggles against Montezuma. With their natural instinct of

self-preservation they resisted the approach of the Spaniards and only

after a sanguinary battle, on the 25th of March, in which they were

defeated, would they enter into friendly relations with the invaders.

In testimony of their goodwill they presented many female slaves to the

conqueror, among whom was the celebrated Marina, whose affectionate

loyalty and intelligence later proved a great assistance to the

Spaniards. This woman, who in Aztec was called Malintzin, was born in

Coatzacoalcos, she was the daughter of a great cacique, on whose death

her mother sacrificed her in the interest of a brother and sold her to

the cacique of Tabasco.

Besides his victory in arms, Cortés won over a large number of converts

who were received into the bosom of the church with great ceremonial

pomp. Thus did he lay the foundation of his great work by fulfilling

the obligations imposed upon him by his sovereign. This auspicious

beginning elevated the hopes of the Spanish and they sailed northward

on April 18th and after delays by storms reached San Juan de Ulua. Here

the natives manifested a friendly spirit and barter was readily entered

into. Establishing himself in this place, the commander desired that

messengers should be sent to Montezuma to notify him of the wish of the

Spaniard to visit him.

[Illustration: CHURCH CARVING OF THE TIME OF THE VICEROYALTY.]

Montezuma sent his ambassador, Teuthile, with wonderful gifts, in pomp

and glory, and in this representative of the great monarch, Cortés

found a person of different attainments from those of any native

he had hitherto met. His dress was costly and he wore ornaments of

precious metals; his manners were dignified and with diplomatic skill

he made it known that he desired to learn the wishes of the stranger.

He was informed that Cortés desired to visit Montezuma to meet him on

behalf of his own monarch. After an interval the ambassador returned

accompanied by a distinguished cacique and attended by one hundred

men bearing beautiful gifts of exquisitely wrought feather work and

receptacles filled with grains of gold and other artistic articles,

all demonstrating the possession of rich materials and an advanced

knowledge of the handicrafts. Such gifts served only to stimulate the

Spaniard’s purpose to conquer this rich country. To the request that

Cortés should return to his own land, the reply was only a still more

earnestly expressed desire to interview the Mexican monarch. Failing

by diplomacy to gain an audience with the monarch, Cortés now realized

that force alone could give him possession of this wonderful land that

he conceived to be his by right of his discoveries.

While awaiting the outcome of negotiations with Montezuma, the

audacious leader had busily occupied himself in acquiring information

concerning the country and its wealth and in considering means by

which he should seize the possessions he coveted. He learned that the

Totonacs had occupied their territory for seven or eight centuries;

that they had lost their independence to the Aztecs two or three

generations before; and had suffered very great indignity and borne

many heavy burdens. He shrewdly used his opportunities to contract a

firm friendship with these people.

Cortés observing that some of his companions were mistrustful of him,

began to chafe under the burden of his obligation to Velasquez. He

decided now to throw off his duty to the governor, and strengthen

his own independence and power before his plans could be interfered

with and his great prospect should become known. Sagaciously, if not

loyally, therefore, he founded the City of Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz

and created it a Spanish municipality; then resigning his commission

from Velasquez, he caused his own appointment as commander-in-chief

of the expedition, and placed himself directly under the authority of

the Spanish crown. To advance his interests with his sovereign in this

course, he sent Montejo and Puertocarrero to Spain with instructions

to explain his situation and plans, and in order to demonstrate the

wonders of their new territory he dispatched some natives and a large

treasure with them.

So adroitly had Cortés acted toward the Totonacs whom he had thus far

met that he received an invitation from the chief of the tribe to

visit the capital at Cempoalla. He proceeded toward that city, the

fleet sailing along the coast, while the expedition penetrated the

strange country. As they progressed the dreary and arid lands changed

to a scene of luxuriant and verdant vegetation, a flora bewilderingly

beautiful to their eyes, with evidences everywhere of a civilization

they had not expected, and also of the barbarism of their native

religion in the remains of numerous victims who had been immolated to

propitiate their gods. Giant hills broke the distant view, and the

snow-covered peak of Orizaba, majestically stood above the valley. The

people wore rich mantles and robes of finely woven cloth, crudely

wrought golden chains hung on their necks, and rings adorned their

nostrils and ears. They welcomed the Spaniards with friendly acclaim

and bore before them in profusion tropical fruits and flowers.

The city entered was substantially and attractively built, and the

prospect was gladdening to the heart of Cortés. Their houses were of a

primitive brick and mortar, were surrounded by gardens of fruit trees

and shrubbery, while around the city stretched rich fields of grain,

giving the scene a picturesque appearance.

Cortés was soon convinced that the Totonacs and other tribes who

were subjects of Montezuma were hostile to their monarch. Ever alert

to forward his plans, he soon seized on an incident that gave him

an occasion to make lasting friends of the Totonacs. Some Aztec

tax-gatherers had arrived to demand a tribute of twenty young men and

women to be sacrificed to the gods in expiation of the reception the

tribe had given to the Spaniards. The chief, feeling the assurance of

Spanish protection, cast the tax-gatherers into prison. Thereupon,

conceiving an adroit plan to gain the favor of both Aztecs and

Totonacs, Cortés rescued two of the five captives, whom he caused to be

safely conducted to Montezuma, and preserved from sacrifice the other

three. By this diplomatic stroke he was able to establish alliances

with several chiefs against Montezuma.

At this time, the audacious genius of the commander was manifested

in a crisis that threatened not only his dominion but all that his

imagination had conjured up. The friends of Velasquez in his army

having stirred up a conspiracy against Cortés and intending to seize

one of the vessels and return to Cuba, the leader made a desperate

hazard to compel the allegiance of his companions and cut off all

chance of defection. In August, 1519, he ordered eleven of his ships to

be sunk in the harbor, alleging as the cause that they were worm-eaten.

There was now no course open to him but to remain in the country and

conquer the people, or be destroyed.

Cortés thereupon garrisoned Vera Cruz with a hundred men, and set out

on his march to the City of Mexico, first destroying the idols in the

_teocalli_ at Cempoalla. His force now consisted of about four

hundred and fifty Spaniards, six light guns, fifteen horses, a number

of Totonacs and a numerous body of Indian carriers.

[Illustration: HOUSE OF CORTÉS AT COYOACAN.]

Continuing his progress the Spaniard approached the territory of the

Tlascalans, an independent people, who were said by the Totonac chief

to hate the Aztecs so bitterly that the Spaniards would be sure of a

friendly reception. They were doomed to a bitter disappointment. The

Tlascalan country lay on the east of the Plain of Anáhuac and was

closely encircled by high ranges and when the Spaniards reached the

boundary of the territory they found it defended by a strong stone

wall. Messengers were sent to request a free passage through the

country, but this was denied. They regarded this as a challenge and

scaled the enclosing wall, but met a most stubborn foe. Again and again

did the little Spanish force tremble for their fate as they received

the attacks of the enemy, who numbered thirty thousand brave warriors,

but their arms and skill proved too much for the Tlascalans, with their

primitive weapons, and after a great struggle they were defeated. Not

all their bravery could avail them against the desperate and determined

Spaniards. The natives had made a mistake in believing that the

Spaniards were children of the sun and that they could be defeated in

a moonlight attack. Acknowledging their defeat, they soon made peace

and Cortés and his allies entered the city on September 22, 1519. No

more faithful men could be found than these Tlascalans, whose enmity

to Montezuma the able Cortés knew well how to turn to account. Binding

firmly the bonds of friendship and alliance, the conquerors were able

to move forward, on October 13th, on their way to Cholula, the next

main city between them and Tenochtitlan.

[Illustration: THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.]

The sight of the magnificent temple with its hundred towers, with its

rich carvings and decorations of gold, dazzled the eyes and exalted

the hopes of the small Spanish force, with its intrepid leader, and

its six thousand Totonac and Tlascalan allies, as the Sacred City of

Cholula was approached. The ruler of the beautiful city was ready to

welcome Cortés, until he learned that their enemies, the Tlascalans,

were among his forces, and became suspicious and unfriendly toward the

Spaniards and refused to permit them to enter unless the Tlascalans

were left outside of the city. With his usual promptitude of action

Cortés notified the ruler that he would leave the city the following

day and requested that the caciques furnish him with two thousand

guides. Pursuing this plan, apparently, he drew up the greater part of

his troops within the court of one of the temples, and ranged the rest

without, with a full command of the avenues; then he issued orders that

at a given signal the Tlascalans should enter. The caciques arrived

at the appointed hour with the number of men requested, who not

realizing the strategy of the Spaniard came unarmed and not prepared

for any unfriendly attack. Cortés ordered an attack upon this body

of men, and for several days a horrible slaughter of the unprepared

Cholulans lasted, until at least six thousand were massacred. Their

own peril and the right of self-preservation could not justify such an

act of treachery on the part of a Christian invader. Men who practised

the sublime teachings of Christ, and were horrified at finding in

Mexico pagans and idol worshippers, still felt they could by a lawless

disregard of what was really right, slaughter human beings in their

greed for conquest. This is one among many blots on the history of

Spain. On November 1st, the ambitious conqueror resumed his determined

march to the Aztec capital. The success he had achieved over the

Cholulans proved to Montezuma that the intrepid Spaniard could not

be turned from his purpose. In vain did he send his representatives

bearing royal gifts, with the intention of becoming friendly with

Cortés, but the richness of the gifts only served to strengthen the

ambition of the Spaniard to gain all those riches for the crown. With

unwearying steps, and with still greater determination, the conquering

force moved on to Tenochtitlan. Neither the frowning barriers of the

valley, nor the dangers before them, could turn their steps aside. Even

the huge Popocatapetl was made an instrument of their will, a minister

to their necessities, for Diego de Ordaz led a party of Spaniards to

the mouth of its vast crater to test its accessibility and find out if

sulphur could be obtained for making gunpowder. Everything gave courage

to the Spaniards.

Nature unfolded vistas of most enchanting beauty; luxuriant vegetation

clothed the land with a verdure so intense in color and dense in its

exuberance as to insure an inexhaustible source of wealth; and the

capital product gold was in evidence everywhere, furnishing a prize to

be won that was well worth every sacrifice.

As Cortés approached, the Aztec ruler’s perplexity knew no bounds. He

appealed to his council, they were divided in opinion as to the course

he should pursue. His brother, Cuitlahua, or Cuitlahuatzin, counselled

an immediate attack, while Cacamatzin, the ruler of Texcoco, urged that

the Spaniards be received with all the courtesy due to the ambassadors

of a foreign ruler. Already had Ixtlilxochtil, Cacamatzin’s brother,

entered into friendly alliance with the Spanish leader. Distracted,

Montezuma, inspired by his religious superstitions, believed that the

gods had decreed against him. He dispatched Cacamatzin, accompanied by

many of the principal caciques and an imposing retinue of attendants,

to greet Cortés at Amaquemacan and bid him welcome to the capital. Thus

invited and well attended, the invaders passed through Iztapalapan

amid great throngs of astonished natives eager to get a look at the

wonderful beings and their strange dress and accoutrements. At last the

proud, magnificent city was before them, the goal of their enterprise.

Over the causeways on the lakes, foot and horse marched, an unwonted

spectacle. What hopes and fears tormented them as, step by step, they

moved toward the entrance to Tenochtitlan and beheld the city in all

its splendor stretched along the shores of Lake Texcoco! A handful of

Spaniards, less than five hundred, supported only by native allies

who might at any time turn against them, marching to a city whose

inhabitants they had been repeatedly told were treacherous. But the die

was cast.

[Illustration: THE FOUNDING OF THE CITY OF MEXICO. FROM A

PAINTING BY JOSÉ JARA.]

On November 8th, Montezuma proceeded to the outskirts of his capital

and personally invited Cortés and his companions into the Aztec

capital. It was no barbarian, in outward guise at least, that greeted

the Spaniard. Instead, a proud and dignified ruler attired in

sumptuous princely robes, and surrounded by a pomp and ceremony as

exacting as that of any of the Old World courts, received with marked

politeness and courtesy the unwelcome guest. All pointed to the extreme

exclusiveness and dignity of Montezuma, and when Cortés, following

the Castilian custom, sought to embrace the Aztec, he was forcefully

prevented by the attendant chiefs, who deemed the act disrespectful to

so great a personage as their ruler. The reception completed, Montezuma

appointed an escort, consisting of his brother and his nephew, to

conduct Cortés within the city and to the quarters assigned to them as

a residence.

The original Aztec capital was built on an island in one of the cluster

of lakes occupying the Valley of Anáhuac. Here on the western side grew

the settlement about the temple of rushes, till the capital spread over

the islands, the dwellings being raised on piles and filled ground as

it was required. Ruler after ruler added to its extent and endeavored

to beautify it, till at the time of the Conquest, its structures

resembled fairy castles. The great avenues constructed of hard

cement crossed the city running from north to south and east to west

crossing at the centre. That running north and south extended in both

directions, by means of causeways, to the mainland, and the other to

the mainland on the west. The causeways were carried on piles and were

broad enough to allow of ten horsemen riding abreast, and at intervals

were bridged to permit of the passage of boats. The aqueduct conveying

the water to the capital was supported on a similar causeway. The

dwellings of the people were one story high and were frequently built

on terraces. Each stood by itself and was separated from the others by

narrow lanes or little gardens and enclosing an open court. High above

these rose the many temples, on mounds, and above all, soared the great

temple of the god of war.

Cortés entered the capital with all the honors of a victor, to

the strains of music and with colors flying, and was conducted to

the palace of Axayacatl, the father of Montezuma, as his place of

residence. No resistance was offered, the ruler yielded to the gloomy

predictions of the priests, he who had always been so proud and valiant

in war, that, but a few years before, he had been elected chief in

preference to his elder brother. Yet almost abjectly, at the approach

of the Spaniards, he humbled himself and his people in awe, influenced

by the superstitions of his religion.

It is possible to form a correct idea of the person and character of

Montezuma from a description given by one of Cortés’s party. He was

about forty years old, tall, slender and thin, but well-proportioned.

His complexion, like that of the other inhabitants, was not very brown.

His hair was long only over his ears, which it covered; his beard was

black and handsome. His face was somewhat long and its expression

cheerful, and his fine eyes were full of expression. He had many

concubines, all of whom were of note and rank, besides two lawful wives

of lineage equal to his.

[Illustration: THE WOODS OF CHAPULTEPEC.]

The palace occupied by the Spaniards was situated near the temples,

a locality selected in conformity with the belief that they were of

divine character and should, therefore, be domiciled near the gods.

The apartments were very large and those appropriated to Cortés were

furnished with carpets. Each of his companions was provided with a

separate bed, and given all the comforts and luxuries suitable to his

rank.

On the day after their arrival in the city, Montezuma visited Cortés

and invited him to his palace where he made acknowledgment of Spanish

supremacy. It is impossible to suppose that Montezuma could have

regarded the presence of the Spaniards as other than inimical to his

country’s interest, especially in view of the fact that their native

allies and companions were his bitter enemies. The evidences that each

succeeding day furnished of the great strength of the Aztec nation and

of the powerful organization by which the country was governed brought

clearly to the mind of Cortés the magnitude of the undertaking to which

he was committed and the stupendous difficulty that must attend his

work of conquest. Everything he saw of the riches of the Aztecs, of the

resources of the country both pricked him on and gave him pause. Wealth

and magnificence, order and discipline were apparent on all hands.

From the top of the great temple, Cortés had viewed the surrounding

country. The great causeways; the system of defensive drawbridges;

the busy canoes laden with the produce brought regularly to the great

markets, thronged with active traders; the vision of temples towering

one above the other glistening white in the clear atmosphere; all spoke

of strength and organization; of a political system that was directed

with care and ability. Cortés had succeeded thus far through audacity

and a bravery even to madness. The conditions were such that the same

qualities must be largely relied on for further gains.

The Totonacs had by the terms of their contract with Cortés cast off

their allegiance to Montezuma and refused to continue the payment

of tribute, so when an Aztec chief sought to compel the people of

Cempoalla to do so, they refused and took up arms and Escalante, the

Spanish commander at Vera Cruz, came to their support. Though the Aztec

Cuauhpopoca was defeated in the encounter, Escalante was killed. There

had also been a real or imaginary plot against the life of Cortés. Here

was his occasion. He saw in it a means of promoting his purpose, no

matter what the rights involved might be. Promptly deciding, he called

five of his most trusted and audacious companions, Pedro de Alvarado,

Gonzalo de Sandoval, Francisco de Lujo, Velasquez de Leon and Alonso de

Avila and to them imparted his plan to seize and hold Montezuma, and

with them called on the ruler, at the same time ordering a small body

of soldiers to assemble in Montezuma’s palace while the major part was

stationed in the courtyard and the avenues leading thereto.

[Illustration: THE AZTEC CALENDAR STONE.]

Montezuma, unsuspicious of the plot, received Cortés with accustomed

courtesy, and offered him one of his daughters in marriage; but as

such an alliance was not likely to further the conqueror’s designs it

was declined. Throwing off the mask, Cortés charged Montezuma with

treachery, as being the instigator of Cuauhpopoca’s demand on the

people of Cempoalla and of the subsequent conflict, and called upon him

to summon the chief. To this Montezuma assented, but it availed him

naught, for Cortés further required that he should reside in the palace

of the Spaniards in order to establish his innocence in the matter. He

was finally seized and held to prevent any treachery on the part of his

subjects. Captivity was not to be Montezuma’s only fate; his relentless

foe humiliated him for awhile by riveting fetters on his ankles. To

strike terror into the hearts of the Mexicans, Cortés ordered the

chief, Cuauhpopoca, his son and fifteen men of rank to be burned at

the stake in view of a great multitude of Aztecs, as a punishment for

having fought against Escalante.

If Montezuma was broken, other members of his court were not.

Cacamatzin, the nephew of Montezuma, realized that the Spaniards had

come to dispossess his nation and had striven to arouse his people to

an effort to drive out the Spaniards. He, too, had been made prisoner.

But besides the military supremacy that Cortés was fastening upon the

Aztecs, there was on his part a constant activity in other directions.

Montezuma was still a captive, but Cortés used his victim to legalize

his actions. Five vessels were built, to be used on the lakes. The

coast was surveyed for about one hundred and eighty miles south of

Vera Cruz and the site chosen for a fortified post at the mouth of

the Coatzacoalco River. He obtained land in Oaxaca and established a

plantation for the crown. He brought his puppet ruler to take the oath

of allegiance to the Spanish crown and to become a feudatory prince,

his oath and those of his principal chiefs being duly attested and a

record made by the royal notary. In pursuance of this scheme, tribute

was ordered to be paid to the Spaniards and the vast treasure of

Axayacatl was bestowed upon them by Montezuma.

All the indignities heaped upon their ruler and all the spoliation

suffered by the people were unavailing to rouse them to open revolt

against their despoilers. The yoke of the Spaniards seemed to be

riveted upon them and Cortés may have been satisfied that the prize of

Mexico was safely in his grasp. His thoughts now turned to the task of

overthrowing the superstitious idolatry of the Mexicans and erecting in

its stead the worship of Christ. With this purpose in view, he entered

the temples and threw out the idols, and converted one of the buildings

into a Christian church. This act infuriated the Aztecs and Montezuma

urged Cortés to seize the opportunity to leave the country, while it

was possible to get safely away. Such advice fell on unappreciative

ears, but unwilling to disclose his real intention and desiring to keep

his captive tractable, Cortés pointed out that he lacked ships, but

would endeavor to build some.

After a brief interval, news arrived of the coming of some Spanish

ships to Vera Cruz, of which Montezuma learned and he again urged

Cortés to take his departure. On his part, the conqueror supposed

that reinforcements had arrived for him as the result of the reports

of Puertocarrero and Montejo to their sovereign. The fleet, however,

was not so friendly to Cortés; it had been dispatched from Cuba, by

Velasquez, in order to wrest from him the fruits of his enterprise.

The reports of the great progress and treasure that Cortés had made

and gained aroused anew the cupidity and ill-will of the governor

and he had determined to overthrow his former commander. The new

expedition was under the command of Pedro de Narvaez and comprised

eighteen ships with a force of nine hundred men. Arrived at Vera Cruz,

Narvaez demanded the submission of Sandoval, the commander, to himself

as the representative of Velasquez. The fearless Sandoval answered

the insolently-addressed demand by seizing Narvaez’s emissaries, and

sending them to Cortés lashed to the backs of Indian carriers, but

on their approach to the capital they were released and mounted on

horses and courteously treated, by order of Cortés. The new situation

thus presented was most grave and called for extraordinary measures.

Leaving Alvarado in command at Mexico, Cortés marched against Narvaez

with about three hundred Spanish troops and a large force of Indians

and joined by Sandoval and de Leon he surprised and overcame Narvaez at

night, capturing him and his force. The result increased the troops of

Cortés, for most of Narvaez’s men joined the conqueror and the ships

were dismantled. This fortuitous event was overshadowed, however, by

the news from the interior.

In the absence of Cortés, Alvarado, whom the Mexicans called Tonatiuh,

because of his fair complexion, had cruelly massacred hundreds of

Mexicans of the highest rank in their temple during a war festival,

on May 20th. The pretext urged by Alvarado for his cruel act was

that an attack on the Spaniards was planned to follow the feast and

that he had merely outwitted them in anticipation, as his leader had

done at Cholula. As Cortés returned to the capital from his campaign

against Narvaez, signs multiplied of the growing unpopularity of his

occupation. Among the tribes, few were friendly, except the loyal

Tlascalans. His ships on the lake had been destroyed and thus a great

difficulty, if not an insurmountable one, was opposed to his escape, in

case of the need of leaving the capital. The people of that place were

in full revolt and constantly attacking the Spaniards.

In this crisis, Cortés endeavored to pacify the natives; he released

Cuitlahuatzin, the brother of Montezuma, whom he had captured earlier

with Cacamatzin. But for once his course was faulty. Cuitlahuatzin

was welcomed by the people as the representative of Montezuma. His

character was unlike that of Montezuma, and instead of giving aid to

the Spaniards, he applied all his activity and zeal in attempting to

overthrow them. Shut within their stone palace, the great commander and

his companions were attacked by an immense host of Aztec warriors who,

scorning the destruction of thousands of their number by the artillery

of the Spaniards, pressed their siege unceasingly until night. The next

day Cortés sallied out against his assailants, driving them back with

great slaughter, but in no way breaking their force or weakening the

courage of the foe. In his extremity, he made use of his captive and,

decking him with his robes of state, he caused him to mount the central

turret of the palace and order the people to lay down their arms in

accordance with his will. His authority evoked no sympathy; his plea

that the Spaniards should be allowed to depart and his promise of a

restoration of the old state of affairs were disregarded. The people,

for an instant manifesting reverence for their ruler, soon became

enraged and insulted him. The day, June 27, 1520, was a fateful one. An

arrow pointed by his nephew, Cuauhtemoc, was the signal for a general

attack with stones and Montezuma was severely wounded. He died three

days later, it is claimed, at the hands of the Spaniards, who are also

said to have murdered his nephew, Cacamatzin, and other rulers, besides

priests and men of rank whom they took prisoners.

[Illustration: XOCHITL PRESENTING THE FIRST PULQUE TO

TEPANCALTZIN.]

Meantime, the position of the Spaniards was nearly hopeless. The enemy

had taken a stand on the pyramid of their great temple, whence they

could rain a tempest of missiles on the quarters of the Spaniards,

which must become untenable unless the pyramid was cleared. Inch by

inch, Cortés and his men fought the Mexicans up the lofty steps to the

topmost platform of the pyramid, where the most desperate struggle was

continued for three hours till all the natives, except two priests,

were either killed or had been hurled to the pavement below. Then,

casting the great idol of Huitzilopochtli to the square below, the

Spaniards set fire to the temple. The victory was vain, however, for

the fate of Cortés’s enterprise was sealed. Two courses only he saw,

escape from the city as best he could; or death for himself and his

companions. He had failed to beat off his assailants by his sorties;

they were but more infuriated.

In the palace of his father, the corpse of Montezuma lay, at midnight,

while the Spanish priest, Olmeda said the mass for the dead. All

preparations for flight had been made and hardly had the solemn service

been ended before the Spaniards filed out of their quarters to take up

their march out of the city which they had dreamed was their own, and

which with most of its treasures and the great empire they had hoped

to establish they were now relinquishing as terrified fugitives; not

however, entirely oblivious of gain, for by permission the men were to

take all the gold they could carry.

The night march was favored because the Aztecs rarely fought at night,

and because darkness would serve, in part, to cover the retreat. The

once proud and victorious soldiers moved forward, still orderly and

with discipline. Sandoval, Ordaz, and Lujo led with a part of the

infantry; Cortés, with the artillery, the treasure, the women and the

prisoners formed the centre; and with him were Olid, Morla and Avila;

in the rear were Alvarado and Leon, with the main body of the infantry

and the heavier guns. Scattered throughout the three divisions marched

the loyal Tlascalans, who in the darkest hour had never failed in

loyalty and valor.

The organization and discipline of the Aztecs find no better

illustration than in the measures they had taken and in their action

on this memorable _noche triste_. The bridges on the canals had been

destroyed, and sentinels had been carefully posted to give immediate

alarm, and the great drum of _huehuetl_ was served so as to bring the

native soldiers in arms instantly on its being sounded.

The night was very dark, a drizzling rain was falling as the heartsick

Spaniards cautiously proceeded through the silent streets of the city

and neared the causeway of Tlacopan. No foe had opposed them thus

far, but, as they were about to retreat along the causeway, sentinels

gave the alarm, the dreaded sound of the great drum was heard and

innumerable warriors attacked the Spaniards; they assailed them

from canoes, in the streets, from the flat house-roofs,--from every

direction came the assailants. Plan, purpose and bravery combined to

make the task of the retreating force almost impossible of execution.

With the foresight characteristic of Cortés his equipment included a

portable bridge, but its sufficiency fell short of the present urgency.

Fighting with the stubbornness of valor and desperation, the first

canal was crossed, but its capacity gave passage so slowly that before

it could be moved forward to the second canal the vanguard was attacked

savagely. Meantime, the weight of the artillery and the troops had

forced the bridge into the earth so that it could not be removed. The

situation was indescribable. Thronging the narrow causeway, surrounded

by a daring and capable enemy bent on exterminating the Spaniards,

trapped in fact, escape seemed impossible.

Desperate men dashed on horseback across the openings in the causeway,

swam, or passed across on a sinister bridge formed of corpses; but

far the greater number perished in that fateful hour. No one could

tell of the horrors of that passage, nor of the heroic bravery of the

Spaniards. The great leader, in defeat, was the equal of himself in

victory. He led the way and had crossed the last canal by a ford, but

wounded as he was, he returned with a few of his horsemen to aid those

in the rear. Alvarado, also, was severely wounded, and the story of

his escape is a favorite one. History has enshrined the legend: he

fixed his long lance in the bottom of the lake and then vaulted across

the breach in the causeway. The rear guard of the army returned to

their quarters in the city, where after a siege of three days they

surrendered and were sacrificed on the altars of the Aztec gods. The

motto that had inspired the conqueror when he added it to his standard,

bravely adorned with the arms of Charles V. and signed with the crimson

cross: _Amice sequam crucem et nos fidem habemus vere in hoc signa

vincemus_ (Friends, let us follow the cross and if we have faith,

we shall conquer), must have seemed a reproach or a mockery to the

Spaniards as they fled from the city over the Tlacopan causeway only to

meet, most of them, a horrible death.

On legend also must we rely for the statement that on bringing his

thinned ranks, depleted by five hundred of his brave compatriots and

four thousand equally brave and loyal Indians, to a native temple on

the mainland, Cortés rested under a large tree, since called the Tree

of La Noche Triste, and shed tears as he contemplated the forlorn

and desperate state of his soldiers. His was not a nature to succumb

to defeat. Bereft though he was of some of his bravest comrades, of

troops, of most of his horses, of all his artillery, almost without

firearms, and his treasure lost, his plan was ready; he would seek a

place of safety in Tlascala and there define his plans for recovery of

his position.

The retreat continued and Otompan, or Otumba, was reached on July 7th.

The way was there barred by an immense army led by Cihuacoatl. The

main reliance of the Spaniards was now on the pike and the sabre, with

which they defended themselves, but so valiant was the defense, and

often the attack, that after seventy-five days of consecutive fighting,

during which terrible carnage took place, against inconceivable odds,

the Aztecs were put to rout. It is believed that final success was due

to the bravery and strategy of Cortés, who had learned that with the

lowering of the banner of their chief, the Mexican soldiers would flee.

He therefore, supported by Sandoval, Alvarado, Olid, and Dominguez,

attacked the chief and hurled him to the ground and killed him.

Thereupon, the army fled, having lost one hundred thousand men, while

of the Spaniards one hundred and of the allies twenty thousand fell.

Taking up the march again toward Tlascala, not without grave misgiving

as to the possibility of a reversal of the friendly spirit and fidelity

of his allies, they reached the capital and were greeted with most

friendly welcome. Here, Cortés fell a prey to a fever that resulted

from the wound he had received on the Dismal Night; here, too, he was

to learn that the treasure of gold he had left behind him when he

went on to conquer Tenochtitlan had been taken by the Mexicans, who

destroyed the messengers bearing it to him. He had also to put down

the opposition of some of his soldiers who desired to go back to Cuba,

but having received reinforcements and made gunpowder from the sulphur

taken from the crater of the great Popocatepetl, he determined to

reopen his campaign by operations against Tepeaca and took and sacked

the capital and established the settlement of Segura de la Frontera.

It was evident to Cortés that his military task was more difficult than

at first. The new Aztec ruler, Cuitlahuatzin, was of different mould

from Montezuma. The leaders were very able and extremely courageous.

Every effort had been made by them to displace the loyalty of the

native allies, but in this they had failed, for their number was

increased. Cortés determined that every place that lay on the road to

Tenochtitlan must be friendly or conquered. Betrayed by their cacique,

Cuauhquechollan was subdued; Iztocan was taken and sacked and a hundred

temples given to the flames. Adding further to his native forces, and

releasing some of the companions of Narvaez, the conqueror completed

his plans for the recapture of the Aztec capital, including the

building of thirteen flat-bottomed boats to be used on Lake Tezcoco.

Before siege was laid to the capital, the successor of Montezuma

died, on November 26th, of smallpox, to which thousands of Aztecs had

succumbed. This scourge was of great service to the Spaniards. The new

ruler was Cuauhtemoctzin, or Guatemotzin, the nephew and son-in-law

of Montezuma. Preparatory to his final march on Tenochtitlan,

Cortés formulated a drastic code for the regulation of his army and

significantly declared that the pending war and its acquisitions would

be robbery unless its principal aim was the conversion of the heathens.

Thus, with an apparently more serious purpose than before, the army,

with its eight thousand carriers, bearing the thirteen brigantines,

moved on Tezcoco, on December 28th, and following the most difficult

route, took it without contest. Establishing a friendly ruler here,

Cortés then took Tlacopan and entered the southern border of the

Valley of Mexico. At this time he was captured in the course of a

reconnaissance, but was liberated by his soldiers before the time of

his sacrifice had arrived. He was also obliged to quell an insurrection

in Tezcoco, which aimed at his assassination.

[Illustration: AZTEC IDOL.]

Cortés was now ready for his attempt on Tenochtitlan. His brigantines

were launched on the lake on April 28th and with his army divided into

three bodies under Alvarado, Olid, and Sandoval, consisting of nine

hundred Spaniards, one hundred and twenty-five thousand native allies,

eighty-seven horses, and with three large and fifteen small guns,

chiefly disposed throughout the fleet, the march on the capital began

on May 20th. Cortés took command of the fleet of thirteen brigantines

and a great number of native canoes. The three commanders occupied,

respectively, Tlacopan, Coyoacan, and Iztapalapan, which they made

their bases of operations. In a few days, Cortés had taken several

lake positions; the capital was completely blockaded; the water supply

was also cut off and the way was opened for an attack on the city

itself. This he succeeded in entering and reached the principal square

and seized the great temple of the war god, withdrawing, however, at

nightfall.

Three days later, being largely reinforced from Tezcoco, he again

attacked the capital and entered it, setting fire to the palace in

which he had formerly resided and to Montezuma’s aviary. The resistance

of the Aztecs was so formidable and their bravery and steadfastness so

terrible that the retreat at night to camp could be accomplished by

Cortés only with great difficulty. But little real progress was being

made by this method as the enemy destroyed the military works of the

invaders as soon as the latter had retired. Such operations promised

little and yielding to the counsel of his lieutenants, Cortés decided

on making a general attack.

On June 28th, all plans being communicated to his leaders, an advance

on the market place of Tlatelolco was ordered. Through a misadventure,

the forces were separated. Alderete, who had already almost reached the

objective point, was greeted with the din of the great sacred drum and

he was immediately attacked by the Aztec hosts. He had omitted to close

the breaches in the causeway, and the other divisions could not follow.

The advance body was routed and fled back on the causeway. There with

Cortés on the other side of the opening, a terrible battle raged.

Cortés was wounded and narrowly escaped capture, but he rallied the

soldiers and led a retreat. Pedro de Alvarado and Sandoval, having also

nearly reached the market-place, retreated. The exultant Aztecs taunted

their enemies on their defeat and flung among them three dripping heads

of Spaniards, shouting as they did so “Malinche” (the name they applied

to Cortés), “Tonatiuh” (Alvarado), and “Sandoval.” To this they added

the abominable torture attending their barbarous sacrifices as they

offered the bodies of their captives on the altars of their demon-gods

and feasted at a banquet on their corpses at evening.

This defeat seemed to threaten the destruction of the Spaniards. It is

to the eternal credit of the native allies that not all the efforts

of Guatemotzin and his emissaries the priests, nor his threats could

undermine their loyalty to Cortés.

Realizing the disadvantages under which he labored by reason of

the difficulty of keeping open the approaches by the causeways, of

operating his forces and of defending them under these conditions,

Cortés developed a new plan of attack; he would fill the canals.

Accordingly, he led his fighting men and utilized the Indian

auxiliaries to destroy with hoes every building they reached. The great

_teocalli_ had been put to the torch; the objective point was at

hand. Slowly, but steadily, the invaders advanced and the enemy crowded

closer and closer within narrowing limits, pressed by a determined and

relentless foe, and ever falling under the combined blows of growing

famine, want of water, and pestilence. Guatemotzin at first scorned to

surrender when called upon to do so; then, as the sufferings of the

Aztecs grew past endurance, he promised to arrange terms, but failed

to appear, preferring death. The last shortening of the living chain

about them had been made; the eager soldiers leaped at the command

for a general attack, and pouring into the city after his fighting

men, the Indians fell upon the Aztecs sparing none on that day of

fearful revenge and continuing the carnage on August 13, 1521. The

Aztec chief was captured as he sought to escape on a _piragua_,

and was led before the conqueror, from whom he begged the boon of

death by his dagger, now that he was a prisoner after having done

all that he could in defence of his country and people. Their leader

captive, the surviving Aztec warriors submitted and were permitted to

leave the capital. Tenochtitlan and the Aztec dominion were destroyed.

The conqueror left a garrison in the city and his victorious forces

withdrew to their respective bases of operation. The cost of life to

the invaders during the almost three months’ siege was about one-tenth

of their strength.

The victors’ joy was tempered with disappointment. The treasure they

had hoped to find was not forthcoming. Guatemotzin was believed by the

Spaniards to possess a knowledge of its whereabouts and Cortés ordered

him to be tortured to extort a revelation which he had declared he

could not make. He averred that some treasure had been cast into the

lake, but like many another reputed vast hoard, it was not discovered,

in spite of a careful search of the waters of Lake Tezcoco.

Master of the prize that had been won at the cost of many thousands

of lives, vast treasure and heroic deeds, Cortés decided to reclothe

the fallen city with the dignity of chief place in the conquered

dominions. The aqueduct he soon restored and canals were filled and

additional causeways built. He was as able an administrator as he was

a commander. The Indians he had dispossessed were allowed to settle

in prescribed districts in the new city. With an immense number of

Mexicans whose labor he could utilize, the City of Mexico soon became a

solid and imposing place.

Not long after the conquest was completed, new troubles arose that

threatened the power that Cortés had acquired. Velasquez, the governor

of Cuba had so contrived that the royal government authorized both an

investigation of the conqueror’s conduct and the taking over of the

government of New Spain, but the official sent proved no match for

the conqueror and he returned to Cuba. Soon thereafter, Charles V.

conferred on Cortés the titles and powers of governor, captain-general,

and chief justice of New Spain. His acts confirmed, his companions

rewarded, and his dignities established, Cortés began to explore and

settle the new dominion. On the Pacific he threw out the settlement

of Zacatula, on the Atlantic, San Estevan, Medellin, and Antigua,

which latter he projected as the principal port. Regulations were made

to encourage the settling of the country and great inducements were

offered to those who married. In the appropriation of lands, Spaniards

only were recognized, the natives being held in a condition of slavery,

save only the Tlascalans, whose loyalty was rewarded by immunity from

tribute and the entire control of their lands, besides the enjoyment

of other privileges and the bestowal of titles of distinction on their

leaders. Later, their capital became the seat of the first bishopric,

they elected their alcalde and he became their governor. But no honors

bestowed on them could repay their services, for without their aid, no

Spaniard would have survived, no nation would have been possible.

One of the consequences of the capture of the City of Mexico was the

effort on the part of the southern provinces of Mexico bordering on

Guatemala to conciliate the great conqueror and secure his goodwill.

These sent ambassadors laden with gifts of such value that Cortés was

fired with the ambition to acquire lands on the southern sea, for

which purpose he fitted out an expedition that soon accomplished its

object. This was supplemented by an expedition sent in aid of the

people of Tehuantepec against the adjoining province of Tututepec.

This resulted in the invasion of the latter province by Alvarado, its

defeat and the settlement of Spaniards in the territory; while he

proceeded to Guatemala and discovering its wealth determined on its

conquest when the opportunity occurred. Fitting out a strong force,

chiefly of natives, Alvarado marched south and was loyally treated by

the people of Tehuantepec but resisted by those of Soconusco, whom he

defeated and thus conquered their provinces. He continued his march

through Guatemala, with which we need not here deal, except to say that

Alvarado remained loyal to Cortés, by whom he was recommended for the

governorship of Guatemala.

[Illustration: BANNER CARRIED BY CORTÉS.]

During one of his expeditions, Cortés disposed of his faithful friend

Marina, by gift to a Spanish knight, whom she married. Though she was

endowed with large grants of land from the government of Spain, her

abandonment was but a mean requital of her affection and inestimable

services to Cortés and the Spanish cause, and the romantic interest

associated with “Malinche,” and the popularity accorded to her, better

measure the appreciation of her services.

On his return from Honduras, Cortés was received in Mexico with

great rejoicing by the people, his enemies had been active in Spain

and he had been accused of aiming at an independent sovereignty. An

investigation was committed to Juan Ponce de Leon, with the power

of governor meantime. His death in a few weeks and also that of the

successor he named brought the duty to the task of Alonso de Estrada,

a bitter enemy of Cortés, who was still captain general. Under these

circumstances, Cortés determined to appeal in person to his sovereign

and accordingly sailed from Villa Rica with rich presents and specimens

characteristic of the flora and fauna of the country. With him were

Sandoval and Tapia, and two sons of the late Montezuma and Maxixca, and

several native chiefs.

Arrived in Spain, he went to the convent of La Rabida, where Sandoval,

one of his ablest companions, died. The arrival of Cortés created

intense interest and he was accorded the greatest distinction by the

sovereign, who conferred on him the title of Marquis of the Valley of

Oaxaca and bestowed on him large estates in Oaxaca, in Mexico City, and

elsewhere. His governorship of New Spain was not restored, however,

but he was appointed captain general of that dominion and empowered to

make discoveries and settlements in the southern ocean. The conqueror

now married a lady of royal blood, Doña Juana de Zuñiga and in 1530

embarked for Mexico.

In the closing days of 1527, Charles V. had appointed an _audiencia_ to

govern New Spain, at the head of which was Nuñez de Guzman, governor of

the Province of Panuco, aided by four _oidores_. This administration

was vicious in the extreme; barbaric cruelty was exercised toward the

natives, who were capriciously murdered and enslaved; charges against

Cortés were encouraged and considered with foregone determination;

the clergy was tyrannized over and abused for their efforts to obtain

justice and humane treatment of the natives; till in 1529, Zumarraga,

the first bishop of Mexico, related in a letter to Spain the tale of

the misdoings of the _audiencia_. Guzman, dreading the exposure of

his evil deeds and hoping to avert disaster to himself, set out on

December 20, 1529, on an expedition to conquer the province of Jalisco,

or Amazonas, which had been discovered by Cortés. Guzman, during his

rule of Panuco, harassed and plundered the native inhabitants with

utter disregard of even the semblance of justice and descended to acts

of the most petty despotism. He even caused the Indians to be put to

death because they had omitted to clean the streets in his path. At the

least manifestation of discontent on the part of the Huastecas, during

his absence from his province as governor of Mexico, he caused whole

towns to be subdued by force of arms as rebels, and the inhabitants to

be sold as slaves, so that this monster’s cruelty resulted in almost

the depopulation of entire districts. Now that he was entering on the

conquest of Jalisco he raised funds by seizing and exporting as slaves

the natives of his own province, those who fled in terror to the deep

forests and mountain fastnesses being pursued by slave-hunting parties

to take them.

This inhuman conqueror left a trail of desolation behind him as he

marched through Michoacan and Nueva Galicia. He tortured and burnt

those chiefs who could or would not furnish him with gold, or even

a token of his displeasure; the chief of the Tarascans of Michoacan,

who had manifested the extreme of friendliness toward him, stripping

himself and his people of all their gold and possessions, giving him

free passage through his country and furnishing him with hosts of

burden bearers, was in spite of all, put to daily torture and, when

this ceased to afford diversion, was then burned. The tyrant was

fiercely fought in the territory he invaded, but the natives were

defeated and he founded the cities of Guadalajara and Compostella.

During this campaign, Chirinos, one of Guzman’s officers, invaded the

Zacatecas, a so-called Chichimec tribe.

The depredations and maladministration of the _audiencia_ did not cease

even during the absence of Guzman, so that the Crown, forced by the

representations of the ecclesiastical authorities, resolved to govern

Mexico by a viceroy and appointed Antonio de Mendoza, but displaced the

old _audiencia_ and appointed another to govern until the arrival of

Mendoza in Mexico.

The royal commission to Cortés to make discoveries was henceforth

the sole motive of the conqueror’s activity in Mexico. He landed at

Villa Rica in July, 1530, and, being forbidden to come within ten

miles of the capital until the new _audiencia_ was installed, he

took up his abode at Tezcoco. He was never again, however, to reside

permanently in the capital, for he found himself in conflict with the

new _audiencia_ and withdrew to Cuernavaca, there to manage and

cultivate his estates.

In 1532, he dispatched an expedition to explore the Pacific coast

northward, but the fleet was lost. The next year he sent two vessels in

the same direction one of which in 1534 touched the Peninsula of Lower

California, which was supposed to be an island. Even such a succession

of disasters could not crush the spirit of Cortés, who, in 1535, led

an expedition which established a colony on the eastern shore near the

southern extremity of the Peninsula of California, but owing to the

barrenness of the land it was a failure, the few survivors making their

way back to Mexico in 1536. In 1539, he sent out another expedition

under Francisco de Ulloa who, with three ships explored the western

coast of the same peninsula to about the twentieth parallel of north

latitude, or certainly as far as Cedros Island. But his adventures were

interrupted by the viceroy, Mendoza, who had arrived in October, 1535,

and who claimed that the right of discoveries in the southern ocean was

vested in him.

Again Cortés left Mexico, in January, 1540, to seek redress at the

Court of Spain, but his efforts were without success. He enlisted to

fight against the Moors at Algiers; then returned to Spain, where,

after much discouragement and even, it is said, contempt, he finally

obtained permission from Charles V. to return to Mexico. He died,

however, near Seville, on December 2, 1547, on his return journey to

the magnificent land that he had conquered and added to the dominions

of Spain, with all its limitless resources, rich in all that country

needed to support its tottering power and for a time to restore and

even to increase its former greatness.

[Illustration: PORT MARQUEZ WHERE CORTÉS BUILT HIS FLEET FOR

A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ON THE PACIFIC.]

[Illustration: CARVINGS OF THE TIME OF THE VICEROYS. THE

CHURCH OF SANTA ROSA, QUERÉTARO.]

[Illustration: BURNING OF THE FEET OF CUAUHTEMOC AND HIS

GENERAL TO FIND THEIR HIDDEN TREASURE.]

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