While most any breed of dog under one year old will soon learn to adapt
himself to new friends and environment, and therefore no stipulated
time is imperative as to what age he should be, at the time of his
purchase, there is something about the wee youngsters of eight or ten
weeks old that appeals to all, and the general thing is to obtain your
puppy shortly after he is weaned.
It is true, there are some objections to this plan, principally because
a puppy of this tender age is still unbroken to the house and is also
more susceptible to the ordinary ills that beset the young life of
practically all canines, but on the other hand, there is something
particularly interesting in a wee puppy and he will, as a rule, soon
become the pet of the entire household. As for the ills, with ordinary
care, one can tide the youngster over these much more easily than the
novice may imagine. As a matter of fact, I would rather begin with a
twelve weeks old puppy and break him to cleanliness about the house
than I would a dog of one year old, for in a majority of cases, when
purchasing a puppy of the latter age, you will be told that he is
house-broken, when as a matter of fact he is not, consequently this
education must begin at a rather late age. Another reason why the very
young puppy is more satisfactory is because there is a greater interest
in watching him develop physically as well as mentally; therefore, all
things considered, I would advise selecting your dog when he is still a
mere baby; which means under three months of age.
As for breed, that is a matter to decide according to your own
inclinations. The young of all animals are interesting, but this is
particularly so of dogs, irrespective of the breed. Even the veriest
mongrel, as a small puppy, is a most engaging creature.
Assuming that you have purchased your puppy and taken him home and he
is one of those innocent-looking balls of fluffy hair from which a pair
of sharp eyes protrude, and short legs carry his wobbly body about.
Is it not only natural that everyone of the household will make much
over him, if they are normal human beings? It will be noted that even
though this bit of dog flesh is still less than twelve weeks old, how
readily he will make up with them. A young puppy, still unaccustomed
to the rebuffs of the world and the “slings and arrows” of canine
fortune has confidence in all whom he encounters. His perceptions are
keen, however, and he will soon learn that there are some or at least
one in the family to whom he may attach himself as his real master or
mistress, and therefore this should be the person to teach him his
early knowledge of household etiquette. It should be this person, also,
who imposes upon himself or herself the duty of feeding the puppy. Of
course this is not entirely essential, but if it is left to one person,
it may be generally taken for granted that the youngster will be fed
regularly and not too much. When the entire household looks after the
feeding, the chances are that he will be too well cared for, and too
frequent feeding is one of the banes of dog-keeping. An overabundance
of food is more dangerous than too little, although I am no advocate of
the starvation plan.
The matter of feeding will be taken up in the next chapter, so let
us pass on to the puppy’s early education. In the first place, if
a secluded nook has been decided upon where he is to sleep nights,
he should be introduced to this the very first night. To begin by
pampering him is only deferring a duty that must be done sooner or
later. Assuming that he has a basket or box in the kitchen, the last
thing before he is put to bed, it is well to feed him. At this early
stage the last feed in the evening may consist of milk and bread, or
any of the puppy meals with milk poured over. Put him in his bed, turn
out the lights and leave him. The chances are that he will not remain
in his bed, but come out and go near the door communicating with the
other apartments of the house, and whine. Go to him, chide him and put
him back in his bed, commanding him to lie down. This, of course, he
will not understand at once and it is quite likely that for the first
three or four nights he will make life hideous by his howling. However,
it is surprising how soon he will learn that he must make the best of
a new condition, for to him it is an entirely new situation in life.
Coming from his litter mates in a home where he has been accustomed to
the association of his mother, his brothers and sisters, it is quite
natural that the nostalgia, or homesickness, should oppress him. Be
firm, however, and make him “stay put” not only the first night, but
every night and he will soon be broken of the night howling.
All dogs are naturally cleanly in their habits and it will be noticed
that even very young puppies will go some distance away from their
nests to obey the call of nature, consequently when the puppy is
brought into the home, correct habits may soon be taught. The
principal care is to catch him in the act and then remove him summarily
from the house. If he persists, a very slight tap or two and a word of
reprimand as he is being banished may assist quite materially in making
him understand. Some breeds are more easily broken than others. I have
found Airedales and cocker spaniels very easy to break of uncleanly
habits. Pointers and setters require more time, but on the whole, most
of the medium-sized breeds can be broken very readily. The new owner
should not lose sight of the fact, however, that he must not be too
severe. Firmness and prompt action are the principal requisites that
must be kept in mind in breaking a puppy, but brutality never succeeds.
One of the earliest lessons that any young dog should be taught is
his name. This should be chosen as early as possible and whenever the
attention of the puppy is to be attracted, he should be called by his
name. All puppies will come to most anyone who will play with them.
On such occasions it is well to give the youngster his first lessons.
Call him to you, using the name you have selected. If he comes to
you, pet and fondle him, repeating the name meanwhile, and reward him
with a choice morsel to eat. Thus, in a very short time the dog will
learn to come promptly when called. Teaching to whistle may be done in
much the same manner, either in a large room or in a yard. Blow the
whistle when he is some distance from you and call his name immediately
after. He will be attracted, but will come at the sound of his name
and not the whistle. By frequent repetition, however, he will soon
learn to associate the blast of the whistle with the verbal command and
come to you promptly, especially if at first he is rewarded with the
ever-present choice morsel.
If your dog happens to be a spaniel or one to be used as a sporting
companion, retrieving is an accomplishment which is a very excellent
one. Any dog will run after a ball if it is thrown from him after his
attention is first attracted. If one begins when the pupil is still
quite young he may be taught to become a perfect retriever through
the “Play Method,” as described in my book, “The Working Dog and His
Education.” When the ball is thrown the command should be given to
“Fetch!” The puppy will get the ball nine times out of ten, but he is
likely to run away with it and toss it about in play. He should be
induced to bring it to you or you must go to him, bring him to where
you were standing when the ball was thrown and gently take it out of
his mouth, repeating the word “Fetch!” As in the other lessons, reward
him with a bite to eat. A little of this play every day will make him
enjoy this pastime and in the end he will become a retriever. He may
also be taught to retrieve from water in the same manner, although at
first the ball should be thrown into the water only far enough so that
the puppy need but get his feet wet in retrieving it. It may be thrown
out farther and farther as the pupil progresses and in the end he will
enjoy this as much as land retrieving, especially if he is a dog of the
spaniel varieties. Airedales are also easily taught to become perfect
retrievers.
Another lesson which all dogs should learn is to remain at heel. First
it is necessary to teach them to lead. Put a collar on the puppy and
allow it to remain a day or two before going further. When he is
accustomed to this, attach the lead and call him to you. He will likely
pull back or buck jump a few times; keep a tight line and allow him to
go as far as he likes. When he becomes passive, call him to you and
draw in the lead. He may pull back or he may be frightened, but pull
him to you and then pet him and reward him with a bit to eat. He will
soon learn to lead.
After he once leads well then take him out with you on the street or in
the park. If he pulls ahead of you draw him back and give the command
“Heel!” He may remain behind for a moment, but dart ahead again in
a moment when he thinks you off guard. Check him up and put him back
of you once more with the same command to “Heel!” If he goes along in
this manner, fairly well after a few lessons, you have accomplished
the first step. Later it may be necessary to carry a light switch
which should be used on every occasion when the dog attempts to forge
ahead. Only a light tap on the nose is necessary, but as it is given
the command to heel should also be uttered. In a short time the dog
should be taken out without the cord and kept at heel, but if he
becomes unruly and does not remain in his position the lead should be
immediately snapped into the ring of the collar and he should be given
a few more lessons of the earlier kind. Eventually he will understand
that he must remain behind his master until the command is given to
“Go!” or “Hie on!” and this latter command he will obey without much
teaching, for it is the natural inclination of all dogs to run on ahead
of their masters, and they will be prompt to take advantage of the
permission to do so.
For fuller lessons on breaking, I would suggest that the reader procure
a copy of my former book, “The Working Dog and His Education.”