PERFUMES.

At all periods perfumes seem to have been more or less adopted as a luxury

among the wealthy and fashionable. Tradition states that they were

frequently rendered instrumental to sinister purposes, as the vehicle of

poisonous substances. Historians relate that the Emperor Henri VI. and a

prince of Savoy, were destroyed with perfumed gloves. Jeanne d'Albret,

Queen of Navarre, and mother of Henri IV., died from the poisonous effect

of gloves purchased from the noted Rene, perfumer and confidential agent

of Catherine de Medicis. Lancelot, King of Naples, was destroyed by a

scented handkerchief prepared by a Florentine lady. Pope Clement VII. sunk

under the baneful effluvia of a torch that was carried before him; and

Mathioli relates, that nosegays thus impregnated have been frequently

known to prove fatal. It is certain that, without the aid of venenous

substances, various flowers have caused serious accidents. Barton tells us

that the _magnolia glauca_ occasioned a paroxysm of fever, and increased

the severity of an attack of gout. Jacquin had seen the _lobelia

longiflora_ producing a sense of suffocation; and the _nerium oleander_ in

a close chamber, has caused death. The injurious effects of bulbous

flowers in giving rise to violent headachs, giddiness, and even fainting,

are generally known. The horror roses inspire to the Roman ladies is

scarcely credible; and Cromer affirms that it was to the odour of that

ornament of our gardens that the death of one of the daughters of Nicolas

I., Count of Salm, and of a Polish bishop, was attributed. The sympathetic

effect that this flower can create is illustrated by Capellini, who saw a

lady fall into a syncope on perceiving a rose in a girl's bosom, although

it turned out to be an artificial one. The partiality or antipathy to

certain odours is equally unaccountable, for the Italian ladies, who dread

the rose, delight in the disgusting aroma of rue, which they carry about

as a salubrious plant, that, according to their notions, dispels the

_cattiva aria_, although it is not impossible that they might fancy it

possessed of those salutary qualities to which Ovid had alluded:

Utilius summas acuentes lumina rutas,

Et quidquid veneri corpora nostra negat.

Rue, according to Serenus Samonicus, was one of the ingredients of the

fabled antidote of Mithridates, which he thus describes:

Antidotus vero multis Mithridatica fertur

Consociata modis, sed magnus Scrinia regis

Cum raperit victor, vilem deprendit in illis

Synthesim, et vulgata satis medicamina risit.

Bis denum _Rutae_ folium, salis et breve granum,

Juglandesque duas, totidem cum corpore ficus;

Haec oriente die, parco conspersa Lycaeo,

Sumebat, metuens dederat quae pocula mater.

The ancients were so fond of perfumes, that they scented their persons and

garments, their vases, their domestic vessels, and their military

insignia. They not only considered aromatic emanations as acceptable to

the gods, and therefore used them in their temples, as they are at present

by the Roman Catholics, but as announcing the presence of their

divinities; and Virgil thus speaks of Venus:

--------Avertens rosea cervice refulsit,

Ambrosiaeque comae divinum vertice odorem

Spiravere.

Chaplets of roses were invariably worn in festivals and ceremonies; and

wines were also aromatised with various odoriferous substances. The Franks

and the Gauls continued the same custom; and Gregory of Tours called these

artificial-flavoured liquors, _Vina odoramentis immixta_. To this day,

the manipulation of French wines gives them a fictitious _bouquet_, with

raspberries, orris-root, and divers drugs to suit the British market.

No external sense is so intimately connected with the internal senses as

that of smell; none so powerful in exciting and removing syncope, or more

capable of receiving delicate and delicious impressions: hence Rousseau

has denominated this faculty "_the sense of imagination_." No sensations

can be remembered in so lively a manner as those which are recalled by

peculiar odours, which are frequently known to act in a most energetic

measure upon our physical and moral propensities. How many perfumes excite

a lively feeling of fond regret when reminding us of the beloved one who

was wont to select them, and whom we long to meet again! It is not

improbable that our partiality to the hair of those who are dear to us,

arises from this circumstance. Every individual emits a peculiar odour;

and, according to Plutarch, Alexander was distinguished by the sweet aroma

that he shed. Perhaps the expression, so frequently found in the lives of

the saints, "who die in odour of sanctity," may be referred to a belief

that this peculiar gift was granted to beatitude.

It has been observed, that animals who possess the most acute smell, have

the nasal organs the most extensively developed. The Ethiopians and the

American Indians are remarkable for the acuteness of this sense,

accounting for the wonderful power of tracking their enemies. But although

we may take the peculiar organization of their olfactory organs as being

partly the cause of this keen perceptibility, we must in a great measure

attribute this perfection to their mode of living. Hunting and war are

their chief pursuits, to which they are trained from their earliest

infancy: therefore this perfection may, to a certain extent, be the result

of habit; and the sight and hearing of these wanderers are as singularly

perfect as their smelling. Mr. Savage relates, that a New Zealander heard

the report of a distant gun at sea, or perceived a strange sail, when no

other man on board could discern it. Pallas, in speaking of the Calmucks,

says that many of them can distinguish by smelling at the hole of a fox

whether the animal be there or not; and on their journeys and military

expeditions they often smell out a fire or a camp, and thus seek quarters

for the night or booty. Olaus Borrich informs us, that the guides between

Smyrna, Aleppo, and Babylon, when traversing the desert, ascertain

distances by the smell of the sand. That odours float in the atmospheric

air is obvious; the distance at which they are perceived is incredible.

The spicy breezes of Ceylon are distinguished long before the island is

seen; and it is a well-known fact that vessels have been saved by the

olfactory acuteness of dogs, who, to use the common expression, were

observed to "sniff" the land that had not been descried. As a proof of the

intimate connexion between smell and respiration, when the breath is held

odorous substances are not perceived, and it is only after expiration that

they are again recognised. A proof of this may be easily obtained by

placing the open neck of a small phial containing an essential oil in the

mouth during the acts of inspiration and subsequent expiration. Willis was

the first who observed that, on placing a sapid substance in the mouth,

and at the same time closing the nostrils, the sensation of taste is

suspended; and this observation has given rise to the prevailing opinion

that smelling and tasting are intimately related. Odour which thus

accompanies taste is termed flavour; and the ingenious Dr. Prout has

admirably defined the distinction between taste and flavour, and he

considers the latter an intermediate sensation between taste and smell.

The acuteness of the sensation of smelling in animals is such, that in

many instances our observations have been deemed fabulous. The distance at

which a dog tracks his master is scarcely credible; and it is strange that

the ancients attributed a similar perfection to the goose. Aelian affirms

that the philosopher Lycadeus had one of these birds that found him out

like a dog:

Humanum longe praesentit odorem

Romulidarum acris servator, candidus anser.

Birds of prey will scent the battle-field at prodigious distances, and

they are often seen hovering instinctively over the ground where the

conflict is to supply their festival. Humboldt relates, that in Peru, at

Quito, and in the province of Popayan, when sportsmen wish to obtain that

species of vulture called _vultur gryphus_, they kill a cow or a horse,

and in a short time these sagacious birds crowd to glut their ravenous

appetites. Ancient historians assert that vultures have cleft the air one

hundred and sixty-six leagues to arrive in time to feast upon a battle;

and Pliny boldly affirms that even crows have so acute a sense of

approaching corruption, that they can scent death three days before

dissolution, and generally pay the _moribond_ a visit a day before his

time, not to be disappointed. This notion has become a vulgar prejudice,

as much so, indeed, as the howling of a dog, which is considered in most

countries as foreboding death. In various animals an offensive odour is a

protective gift. The _staphylinus olens_, for instance, sheds an effluvium

which effectually keeps away the birds who would otherwise pounce upon

him. But of all singular perfections in the sense of smelling that were

ever recorded, may be cited the monk of Prague and the blind man in the

Quinze-vingt Hospital of Paris, who possessed the faculty of ascertaining

the presence of virginity whenever a female had the luck of being

introduced to them.

Many curious instances are recorded, where the loss of one sense has added

to the acuteness of others. Dr. Moyse the well-known blind philosopher,

could distinguish a black dress on his friends by the smell. Professor

Upham of the United States, mentions a blind girl who could select her own

articles out of a basket of linen brought in by the laundress.

These anomalous senses, for such they may be called, are as wonderful as

they are inexplicable, and appear to arise from a peculiar sensibility of

the organs of smell, which renders them capable of being stimulated in a

peculiar manner, that no language can express or define. It is scent, no

doubt, that gives the migratory power to various animals; "which enables

them," to use the words of Dr. Mason Good, "to steer from climate to

climate, and from coast to coast; and which, if possessed by man, might

perhaps render superfluous the use of the magnet, and considerably

infringe upon the science of logarithms? Whence comes it that the

fieldfare and red-wing, that pass the summer in Norway, or the wild-duck

and merganser, that in like manner summer in the woods and lakes of

Lapland, are able to track the pathless void of the atmosphere with the

utmost nicety, and arrive on our own coasts uniformly in the beginning of

October."[11]

This sense is not limited to migratory animals, as instanced by

carrier-pigeons, who have been known not only to carry bags in a straight

line from city to city, but traverse the city with an undeviating flight.

Surely this faculty must be attributed to the sense of smell; it can

scarcely be referred to sight or hearing; although the wonders of the

creation are such, that we can no more account for these peculiar

attributes refused to the lords of the creation, than for the power of the

lobster, who not only can reproduce his claws when deprived of them by

accident, but cast them off to extricate himself, from the captor's grasp.

The _Tipula pectiniformis_, or the daddy long-legs of our infant amusement

and amazement, possesses the same renovating faculties. The gluttonous

gad-fly may be cut to pieces without any apparent interruption in his

meal, when fastened to one's hand: the polype does not seem to be at all

discomposed when we turn him inside out; and, when divided into various

sections, each portion is endowed with an instinctive and reformative

power of multiplying his species in countless numbers! The diversity of

our olfactory fancies is unaccountable and only illustrates the words of

Petronius,

Non omnibus unum est quod placet; hic spinas, colligit ille rosas.

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