We arrived at this city before the bustle which the coronation of
_Louis_ the 16th occasioned was quite over; I am sorry I did not see it,
because I now find it worth seeing; but I staid at _Calais_ on purpose
to avoid it; for having paid two guineas to see the coronation of George
the Third, I determined never more to be put to any extraordinary
expence on the score of _crowned heads_. However, my curiosity has been
well gratified in hearing it talked over, and over again, and in reading
_Marmontell_'s letter to a friend upon that subject; but I will not
repeat what he, or others have said upon the occasion, because you have,
no doubt, seen in the English papers a tolerably good one; only that the
Queen was so overcome with the repeated shouts and plaudits of her new
subjects, that she was obliged to retire. The fine Gothic cathedral, in
which the ceremony was performed, is indeed a church worthy of such a
solemnity; the portal is the finest I ever beheld; the windows are
painted in the very best manner; nor is there any thing within the
church but what should be there. I need not tell you that this is the
province which produces the most delicious wine in the world; but I will
assure you, that I should have drank it with more pleasure, had you been
here to have partook of it. In the cellars of one wine-merchant, I was
conducted through long passages more like streets than caves; on each
side of which, bottled _Champaigne_ was piled up some feet higher than
my head, and at least twelve deep. I bought two bottles to taste, of
that which the merchant assured me was each of the best sort he had, and
for which I paid him six livres: if he sells all he had in bottles at
that time, and at the same price, I shall not exceed the bounds of truth
if I say, I saw ten thousand pounds worth of bottled _Champaigne_ in
his cellars. Neither of the bottles, however, contained wine so good as
I often drank in England; but perhaps we are deceived, and find it more
palatable by having sugar in it; for I suspect that most of the
_Champaigne_ which is bottled for the use of English consumption, is so
prepared. That you may know however, for the future, whether Champaigne
or any other wine is so adulterated, I will give you an infallible
method to prove:--fill a small long-necked bottle with the wine you
would prove, and invert the neck of it into a tumbler of clear water; if
the wine be genuine, it will all remain in the bottle; if adulterated,
with sugar, honey, or any other sweet substance, the sweets will all
pass into the tumbler of water, and leave the genuine wine behind. The
difference between still _Champaigne_, and that which is _mousser_, is
owing to nothing more than the time of the year in which it is bottled.
I found in this town an English gentleman, from whom we received many
civilities, and who made us acquainted with a French gentleman and lady,
whose partiality to the English nation is so great, that their
neighbours call their house "THE ENGLISH HOTEL." The partiality of such
a family is a very flattering, as well as a very pleasing circumstance,
to those who are so happy to be known to them, because they are not only
the first people in the town, but the _best_; and in point of talents,
inferior to none, perhaps, in the kingdom. I must not, after saying so
much, omit to tell you, it is _Monsieur & Madame de Jardin_, of whom I
speak; they live in the GRANDE PLACE, _vis-a-vis_ the statue of the
King; and if ever you come to Rheims, be assured you will find it a GOOD
PLACE. _Madame de Jardin_ is not only one of the highest-bred women in
France, but one of the first in point of letters, and that is saying a
great deal, for France abounds more with women of that turn than
England. Mrs. Macaulay, Mrs. Carter, Miss Aikin, and Mrs. Montague, are
the only four ladies I can recollect in England who are celebrated for
their literary genius; in France, I could find you a score or two. To
give you some idea of the regard and affection _Mons. de Jardin_ has for
his wife,--for French husbands, now and then, love their wives as well
as we Englishmen do,--I send you a line I found in his study, wrote
under his lady's miniature picture:
"Chaque instant à mes yeux la rend
Plus estimable."
This town stands in a vast plain, is of great extent, and enclosed
within high walls, and a deep ditch. The public walks are of great
extent, nobly planted, and the finest in the whole kingdom. It is,
indeed, a large and opulent city, and abounds not only with the best
wine, but every thing that is good; and every thing is plenty, and
consequently cheap. The fruit market, in particular, is superior to
every thing of the kind I ever beheld; but I will not tantalize you by
saying any more upon that subject. Adieu!
_P.S._ The Antiquarian will find amusement in this town. There are some
Roman remains worthy of notice; but such as require the information of
the inhabitant to be seen.