1746, that was to have conquered all British America. Of the 40 warships
and 30 transports that left Brest, only a scattered remnant survived
storm and disaster and was able to return to the home port. Halifax,
Louisbourg and Annapolis were all to have been taken from the British by
this formidable fleet. But disaster followed in the wake of nearly every
vessel of the great squadron; for after being dispersed and scattered by
heavy storms that destroyed many vessels of the fleet, the survivors
became the prey of a violent and fatal sickness. They wintered along the
shore of the Bedford Basin, and died there by thousands. The commander,
d’Anville, died suddenly and was buried on the island now known as
George’s Island. The second in command, D’Estournel, committed suicide
on his sword, in a fit of despair. La Jonquière then assumed command of
the weakened and dispirited force. He burned one of his frigates, and
other vessels, the remains of which may still be seen in the Bedford
Basin near the Three-Mile House, and also close to Navy Island. Then
rallying his command he left to attack Annapolis, but again was the
fleet battered and dispersed by storms, and the survivors had to endure
many hardships before they reached their native France. Rust-eaten
muskets and swords have frequently been found along the Bedford shore
when clearing away the underbrush.
[Illustration]
Other good routes are those to Dutch Village and the Dingle, to the
Chain Lakes, and to the Rocking Stone on the way to St. Margaret’s Bay.
Lawrencetown, about two hours’ drive from Dartmouth, has a good beach
with surf-bathing, and may be reached by stage. Chezzetcook, an old
Acadian settlement, is also quite accessible in the same way. York
Redoubt, Falkland Village and Herring Cove all make pleasant drives.
The Musquodoboit River country to the east of Halifax had French
settlements fully half a century before the first British settler
arrived at what is now the great stronghold and capital city of Nova
Scotia.
Crossing to Dartmouth on the ferry a pleasant road leads to the
Dartmouth Lakes. This beautiful chain of lakes is part of a system of
waterways intended to be made continuous from Halifax and Dartmouth to
the Bay of Fundy, at Maitland and Cobequid Bay, by means of the
Shubenacadie River. A canal was to have connected the lakes and river,
but the project fell through. The ruins of the old locks at the
Dartmouth end are well worth seeing. Excellent views may be enjoyed from
Dartmouth and Prince Arthur Parks. Many camping parties are found on the
shores of the first and second lakes, and boating is there a favorite
recreation.
Another pleasant road is that to Cow Bay, where a fine beach and good
bathing may be enjoyed.
[Illustration: Regetta Day, Halifax]
[Illustration]
“I leave the town with its hundred noises,
Its clatter and whir of wheel and steam,
For woodland quiet and silvery voices,
With a camp of bark by a crystal stream.
Oh, peaceful and sweet are forest slumbers
On a fragrant couch with the stars above,
As the free soul marches to dulcet numbers
Through dreamland valleys of light and love.”
Enjoyable trips may be made from Halifax to the Minas Basin, Grand Pré,
and the Annapolis Valley; along the south shore to St. Margaret’s Bay,
Chester, and Mahone Bay, Liverpool, Lockeport and Shelburne, and to
Lakes Rossignol, Keejim-Koojie, Ponhook, etc.
No port of Canada offers the numerous water trips that may be made from
Halifax. Steamers leave here for St. John’s, Newfoundland; St.
Pierre-Miquelon, Magdalen Islands, Pictou and Prince Edward Island,
Gaspé peninsular points, Sydney, Ingonish, Aspy Bay, Louisbourg, Glace
Bay, Bras d’Or Lakes, Port Hood, Mabou and many other Cape Breton
points; Guysboro, Mulgrave and other ports in the Strait of Canso;
Country Harbor, Isaacs Harbor, Sherbrooke, Liscomb, Sonora, Jeddore,
Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, and many places along the east
shore; Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, Yarmouth on the south shore; St.
John, N.B.; and finally, not including transatlantic ports, there are
trips to Jamaica and Santiago: and to New York, Boston and Philadelphia.
Other particulars of Halifax and eastern shore localities will be found
in the chapter on “Where to Go.” The deep-sea fisheries of the South
Shore are very large and important, and at Halifax and elsewhere along
the coast ample opportunities are found for catching swordfish, leaping
tuna, mackerel, codfish and haddock, etc. Whaling was formerly carried
on by numerous vessels outfitting and sailing from Halifax. A settlement
of Nantucket Whalers was made in Dartmouth, but they afterwards left;
and the whaling industry gradually died out as a result of the great
slaughter of those fish in early days.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: East River, near New Glasgow]
_Nova Scotia, North and East_
[Illustration]
Between Truro and Stellarton there is a continuance of the pleasant
scenery found in the Truro Valley; but the Northumberland Straits Shore
and neighboring territory between Oxford Junction and Stellarton, and
beyond that to Mulgrave and the Strait of Canso, has features of its own
quite unlike those of the country previously described. The nearest
approach in general characteristics is found at the mouth of the
Miramichi, and in the neighborhood of Point du Chene. It is a country of
meadow lands and tranquil rivers, although as Antigonish and other
places are approached the meadows are frequently varied by the addition
of hills and occasional rolling land.
It is a land of verdure and freshness; and if bold mountain ranges are
absent, in their place will be found prolific meadows, luxurious
tree-growth, quiet streams, singing birds, and abundant floral life.
“’Twas in June’s bright and glorious prime,
The loveliest of the summer time,
The laurels were one splendid sheet
Of crowded blossoms every where;
The locust’s clustered pearl was sweet,
And the tall whitewood made the air
Delicious with the fragrance shed
From the gold flowers all o’er it spread.”
[Illustration]
Pugwash is a quiet and modest little watering place on the
Northumberland Straits, only a short run from Oxford Junction. There is
bathing on the shore, and boating in the excellent harbor. Some
bungalows have been erected in a fine situation for the water view and
the cool evening air. Like most of the places that are a little remote
from the beaten highway of travel, Pugwash is quite quaint in its
appearance and everyday life. The streets are very pleasant, there are
plenty of river views and walks, and there are many good roads. It is
one of those places where a very quiet and restful summer may be spent
at very moderate expense.
[Illustration]
The scenery by Tatamagouche River, and also by the Swiss settlement of
River John, is very enjoyable. A pleasing sheet of water is at
Tatamagouche. The land is low, but the bay winds and turns and has
little coves in it, so that it makes an attractive waterway for boating
and canoeing. Malagash Point makes out at the far western extremity of
the main bay. The Tatamagouche is a pretty little stream with
picturesque banks—the flat country here gradually taking a moderate
elevation in parts. River John is a stream of fair proportions, nicely
wooded with young trees along its gentle sloping banks of brightest
green. Going east from here the country becomes somewhat undulating, and
on approaching Lyon’s Brook and Pictou, hills of bolder height are seen.
The country through which we are passing is that of the blackbird and
the bobolink, and the rivers, water reaches and tall grasses are the
homes of wild fowl of almost every kind.
“The redwinged merle, from bending spray
On graceful pinions poising,
Pours out a liquid roundelay
In jubilant rejoicing.
The cock-grouse drums on sounding log,
The fox forsakes his cover,
The woodcock pipes from fen and bog,
From upland leas the plover.
[Illustration]
The speckled trout dart up the stream,
Beneath the rustic bridges,
While flocks of pigeons glance and gleam
O’er beach and maple ridges.
The golden robin trills his note
Among the netted shadows,
The bobolink with mellow throat
Makes musical the meadows.”
[Illustration]
Pictou is situated on a fine harbor, possibly the finest along the
shore, which has three rivers emptying into it. It is a delightful
little summer resort, where many enjoyable drives may be taken into the
surrounding country. Walks about will reveal many charming spots. There
are pretty brooks, and refreshing woodland walks. The boating is
excellent, and the nearby shore offers pleasant variety in coves and
tiny creeks. There is a clean sand beach for sheltered or harbor
bathing. Good trout fishing will also be found in the surrounding
streams. Lord Strathcona has a summer home in the neighborhood. The East
River communicates with New Glasgow, only some 9 miles distant. The
growing town of Westville is on the Middle River. West River has much
pretty scenery along its course, and it is here that most of the fishing
is done.
Pictou was once the site of a large Indian village. Later the French
tried to build up a settlement and they were followed by Pennsylvanians
from the neighborhood of Philadelphia. Finally, many hardy Highlanders
found their way here, and by them the real settlement was made. At the
mouth of Pictou harbor the last fight between the Kennebec and Micmac
Indians took place.
Stages leave here for many places of interest along the shore, and also
to some inland points. Steamships also leave for Prince Edward Island,
for Quebec and St. Lawrence Gulf ports, for Hawkesbury and the Strait of
Canso, and for West Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands.
[Illustration]
The whole neighborhood is a pleasant one, and, in addition, there is
some of the life of a busy little town that many tourists consider
essential in a summer stopping-place.
[Illustration: ANTIGONISH]
1. Pictou
2. South River, Antigonish
3. West River, Stellarton
4. Garden of Eden Lake
5. Grey’s Falls, Hopewell
6. Antigonish, Cattle on the Intervale
The country between Truro and Stellarton on the southern loop or main
line of the Intercolonial Railway has not been opened up or developed
for summer visitors. It is nevertheless a beautiful country; and walks,
drives and excursions by rail from Truro or New Glasgow along the pretty
hills, vales and streams will bring much pleasure.
Stellarton and New Glasgow are growing and prosperous coal-mining and
manufacturing centres. Stellarton is the centre of a coal district from
which immense quantities of that valuable fuel have been mined. New
Glasgow is a bright and up-to-date town with excellent stores and
commercial facilities. There are pleasant drives along the East River,
and to the south.
Proceeding east past Merigomish and other small places, the very
interesting and pretty town of Antigonish, at the head of a small harbor
on St. George’s Bay, is reached. It is a Scottish settlement that has
more individuality and charm than would be thought possible for a town
on a railroad. It is a place of pleasant shady streets, picturesque
hills, winding streams and numerous bridges. Its fine Catholic Cathedral
and modern College are conspicuous objects from all around. Antigonish
is not spoiled by the proximity of a large city, and so the life of the
surrounding country centres in the busy little place; and it is one of
those delightful places that somehow appeal to the heart from the first
moment of arrival.
The harbor is some distance off, and, being shallow, is little used.
There are very pleasant drives in every direction. For a pleasant stay
in a pretty country town, few places will please more than this; and for
those who like that pastime, some canoeing may be done in the adjacent
waters. The climate is very enjoyable, mild and temperate. The nights
are lovely.
“On summer nights the yellow stars
Shine through the watches held on high
Suspended from the countless spars
Of cloud-fleets anchored in the sky;
And wafted past upon the breeze
Slow winding down from distant heights
There comes the roll of far-off seas
On summer nights.
* * * * *
On summer nights the steadfast stars
Swing from the masts of shadow ships
That lie within the harbor bars
Where the long sea-roll curls and dips;
And still there comes in divers keys
Down drifting from those beacon lights
The spectral wash of far-off seas
On summer nights.”
Antigonish is an important centre for stage coach and other drives to
many places of great interest. The route to Lochaber, College Lake and
Sherbrooke leads past the Antigonish Mountains to the St. Mary’s River
and Atlantic Ocean on the south, and is full of variety. There are
drives to Morristown and Georgeville, and to Malignant Cove by a
delightful road through the hills. It was here that the British frigate
_Malignant_ took the shore in a heavy gale. Near here is the Scottish
settlement of Arisaig, which has a romantic situation and a little
shelter-harbor.
At Heatherton Station a stage may be taken for Guysboro at the head of
Chedabucto Bay. It is a most interesting drive. Beyond Heatherton lies
Tracadie, a quaint French district where there is a Trappist Monastery,
the Belgian Monks of which make excellent farmers. Both in Tracadie and
Harbor au Bouche a quaint old-time life is lived, and the places are
well worth a visit.
[Illustration]
Proceeding now to the most easterly railroad point in peninsular Nova
Scotia, the village of Mulgrave is reached. Mulgrave is on the Strait of
Canso, the much-travelled marine highway from the Atlantic Ocean to the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and by the use of which the long voyage around the
Island of Cape Breton is rendered unnecessary. It has been termed the
“Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence,” and without doubt is a most
picturesque waterway. Thousands of vessels pass through here every year,
and at almost any hour of the day the sight is a pleasant one and full
of variety. Bold and plentifully wooded hills flank the splendid
waterway for a considerable length of its fifteen-mile course. Here the
Intercolonial Railway ferry crosses and recrosses to Cape Breton Island
on the opposite shore of the Strait, carrying over passengers, cars,
etc., to and from Sydney and intermediate stations on the island. There
are many pleasant trips from Mulgrave by steamboat to Guysboro, Canso,
Arichat, Port Hawkesbury and Port Hastings, Bras d’Or Lake by way of St.
Peter’s, Port Hood, Margaree and Cheticamp on the West shore of Cape
Breton, and to Montague and Georgetown on Prince Edward Island.
[Illustration]
The town of Guysboro is quite an old settlement, for Nicholas St. Denys
had a fishing station at the place now known as Fort Point. The
fisheries here have always been very valuable, and Chedabucto, at the
head of which Guysboro is, has been the resort of many vessels engaged
in fishing for mackerel, herring, codfish and pollock. The settlement
itself with its long street of most generous width lying along the
water, at a little distance from it, and the grassy little streets on
the overlooking hills, is very attractive as a quiet summer resort, with
good boating and canoeing. As a centre for sailing and excursions by
water, and also for drives in every direction, it is excellent. Being
somewhat remote, it is a place where a restful summer may be spent, with
cool air and genial surroundings. Like Antigonish, it is a place with a
homelike air that takes the fancy from the very first; and here, of
course, boating and fishing are at the very door. There are pleasant
water trips nearby to Milford Haven and Boylston, and innumerable longer
excursions to places on Chedabucto Bay, to Isle Madame and other Cape
Breton points, as well as to Hawkesbury and Mulgrave on the Strait of
Canso. There are good drives, also, with fishing sport, to Salmon River
and surrounding lakes, as well as to Whitehead, Tor Bay and other places
on the outer Atlantic coast. In summer the water of Chedabucto Bay is
ordinarily quiet and smooth, and it takes just a moment to pass out into
the open bay from Guysboro’s little shelter-harbor. When a gale blows
from the east, the sea piles up in rollers and sweeps up to the harbor
entrance in fine commotion. It is a place half-country and half-shore,
with sea life predominating.
[Illustration: Guysboro]
[Illustration]
“I picked up shells with ruby lips
That spoke in whispers of the sea,
Upon a time, and watched the ships,
On white wings, sail away to sea.
The ships I saw go out that day
Live misty—dim in memory;
But still I hear, from far away,
The blue waves breaking ceaselessly.”
The coast line west of Chedabucto Bay is rich in bays and roomy inlets,
with numerous lakes and rivers in communication. The St. Mary’s River
waters a fine tract of country, and connects with the beautiful Lochaber
Lake some thirty miles inland. A stage-coach drive across the peninsula
from beautiful Antigonish to the head navigation waters of the St.
Mary’s River at Sherbrooke is an enjoyable summer outing. The scenery is
finely varied, and the whole district is full of interest.
On the middle St. Mary’s River good salmon fishing is often found at the
Crow’s Nest, a typical interior country place.
Considerable salmon fishing with nets is carried on in the lower waters
of the river between Sherbrooke and Sonora on the coast, a distance of
about nine miles.
The village of Sherbrooke has a very pleasant situation on the river,
and it is one of those quiet and remote places where a thoroughly
restful vacation may be enjoyed by those who love country life and
pleasant rambles. There is excellent boating at Sherbrooke, as well as
above and below it. Motor-boats have a fine nine-mile run to the ocean,
with numerous excursion points within easy reach of the mouth of the
river.
The canoeing waters of Sherbrooke are excellent. A delightful holiday
may be spent by making headquarters in the village to explore the upper
waters of the river. There are pleasant settlements all along the course
up to its head waters. Being remote from regular travel routes, the
district is fresh and unspoiled; and those who enjoy absolute quiet,
unconventional life and a friendly welcome will be sure to feel at home
in Sherbrooke.
Country Harbour to the east, and Sheet Harbour, Port Dufferin and
Musquodoboit to the west are all pleasant little places.
[Illustration: Antigonish]
A railroad is to be built, along the south-east shore between Halifax
and Guysboro. When it is finished, the fine harbors and the rugged and
romantic places along the shore will be brought within easy reach of the
summer visitor. In the meantime such places are fairly accessible by
stage-coach from points on the Intercolonial Railway between
Shubenacadie and Heatherton or Antigonish; and they may also be reached
by steamboat from Halifax and Guysboro or Mulgrave.
[Illustration: Baddeck—Leaving for Sydney]
_Cape Breton Island_
[Illustration]
Cape Breton Island, lying at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
has been termed the “front door” of Canada; a distinction that should
properly be shared with Newfoundland; for the naval power that holds
these Atlantic outposts could destroy or dominate the whole maritime
trade of the great river.
If the Norse voyagers discovered North America, and sailed into the Gulf
of St. Lawrence a thousand years ago, as many believe, they must have
passed by and seen Cape Breton; and, in all probability, they must have
been the first Europeans to land upon its shore.
The first name of the Island, Baccalaos, is held by some to indicate an
early visitation of the Portuguese, much earlier than Cabot’s time; for
Baccalaos is a Portuguese word meaning “cod fish,” and it is well known
that early European fishermen frequented these waters, and engaged in
the cod fishing. The Portuguese are believed to have made some attempt
to found a settlement at or near the present village of Ingonish. It is
not certain whether Cabot landed here on his voyage of discovery in the
year 1497; nor has it been established that Verazzano, the Florentine
navigator, landed at or near Cape Breton in the year 1524. It is not
even certain that Jacques Cartier landed on the island in any of his
three American voyages, although he is thought to have given the old
French name of Loreine to a cape at the northern end of the Island.
In the reign of Queen Elizabeth a British mariner is said to have
visited Cape Breton. His name was Richard Strong, and he came in his
little bark, the _Marigold_, of 70 tons. He is supposed to have landed
near where the town of Louisbourg now is. About this time fur-trading
commenced to attract European sailors, and by the close of Queen
Elizabeth’s reign fully two hundred English vessels were engaged in
bartering for furs, and fishing for cod and other fish in upper North
American waters.
Cape Breton received its present name from the Breton fishermen who
either “discovered” the Island, or, what is more likely, fished in its
waters. It is easy to understand that where they congregated to fish
might most readily be named the Bay or the Cape of the Bretons. During
the time that it was a French possession it was by them called L’Isle
Royale, but since 1758 it has been known by the name it now bears.
With the exception of some low lying and undeveloped places on the south
shore, the whole Island offers all that the summer visitor holds dear,
bold scenery and fine prospects, charming vale and river districts,
beautiful woods, romantic gorges, sparkling waterfalls, sunny skies,
delightful temperature, and invigorating air. The summers from May to
October are probably as enjoyable as those in the most favored part of
the world that may be chosen for comparison. For its northern and
eastern position there is remarkable immunity from fog. The southern end
is where fog may be seen when it prevails.
Only those that have gone over the whole ground can realize the wealth
of picturesque beauty and variety found in Eastern Quebec and the
Maritime Provinces of Canada, and this variety is again exemplified in
Cape Breton; for after passing from Quebec to New Brunswick, from New
Brunswick to Prince Edward Island, and thence to southern and eastern
Nova Scotia, and finding constant variety at almost every stage—here in
Cape Breton the contrast is still maintained. The growing popularity of
these provinces is perhaps only natural when their situation and
advantages are considered. They are rapidly becoming what nature
evidently intended they should be—international vacation grounds for the
people of the western hemisphere.
There are no fashionable resorts in Cape Breton. For the majority this
is perhaps one of its strongest recommendations. There are luxuries in a
few centres, and comforts in many more, with plain but substantial
living in most of the smaller places. The railroad mileage is not very
extensive, as yet, but it is supplemented by steamboat traffic along the
east, west and south coasts, and over the waters of the Bras d’Or Lake.
Carriages are used for reaching interior parts that are remote from rail
or steamboat routes. Because of this a systematic description following
the coast line, etc., is not advisable, and in place of it the plan is
followed of describing the accessible parts of the island from the chief
centres of railway, steamboat and carriage travel.
[Illustration]
1. Kennan Bungalow, Baddeck
2. Webber Bungalow, Baddeck
3. Boating at Wycocomagh
4. In Sydney Harbor
5. At the Wharf, Baddeck
6. Marble Mountain Quarry
In some places, such as the Sydneys, Grand Narrows, etc., excellent
accommodation is found. In other resorts, such as Baddeck, Whycocomagh,
Louisbourg, St. Peter’s, Mabou and Ingonish, quite comfortable quarters
may be found. In the Margaree, Middle River and North River districts,
also, there are here and there little inns where very pleasant and
comfortable days may be spent.
[Illustration]