enough, before long, and without the slightest warning, a quick splash
breaks the water, and the click, click, of Tom’s reel announces the
hooking of the first three-pounder. The sportsman’s heart beats high, as
with practiced eye and feeling hand he follows the wild rushes of the
speckled beauty, and finally, with doubled rod plays him into the
shallows, where he is secured. And now the sport waxes warm. The water
is beaten with foam as we fight with the struggling leviathans, and the
enthusiastic Harry rushes in to the neck, net in hand, to capture a fish
that pulls like a whale. We take our way back to camp with light hearts
and heavy baskets. The ladies apostrophize the moon and the beauty of
the night; but sentiment gives way to cake and coffee. Soon we start for
the railroad station. Various and comical are the adventures of the
shady roads, though, finally, we catch the train, and bid adieu to our
tired but happy visitors. Such were our days in camp—oases in the desert
of life.”
[Illustration: Souris, Prince Edward Island]
The town of Souris is on Colville Bay at the eastern end of the Island.
As would be expected from its remote situation, it is quiet and
peaceful, and, like most of the Island resorts, it offers attractions
only to those who enjoy living in isolated places. Such places always
have a character or individuality of their own not found in or near
crowded centres. They also offer the great advantage of inexpensive
living. Steamers leave from here for Pictou, N. S., and also for the
Magdalen Islands. These islands are populated by Acadian fishermen, and
are visited by many on account of the quaint old-world life that may be
seen there. A very large fishing industry is carried on from the
Magdalen Islands, and many American and Canadian vessels frequent those
waters. Lobstering and sealing are carried on there in the proper
seasons, and sea birds are found in remote parts in enormous number.
[Illustration]
Souris itself is an old Acadian village. It has a pleasant strip of sand
beach, and enjoyable summer days are spent by those who seek the quiet
hospitality of the cool little place.
Going east from Mount Stewart Junction on the southern loop of the
eastern division of the Prince Edward Island Railway, the Cardigan River
is reached. This empties into Cardigan Bay to the north of the
promontory on which stands Georgetown, a small seaport and summer
resort. Passing Brudenell, Georgetown, by the Junction of the Brudenell
and Montague Rivers, is reached. A very pleasing picture is presented by
the flocks of sheep and young, sportive lambs feeding in the fields just
recently harvested, together with the smiling “stooks” of grain, and the
never-failing dark green belt of trees for a background.
After Charlottetown, Summerside, and the district bounded by Bradalbane,
New London, Rustico and Hunter River, there is no doubt that the
Georgetown-Montague River district comes next in importance. Indeed, the
first two centres are named in that order chiefly because they are
populous, with some life, and on that account have superior attractions
for the average summer visitor. The quadrangle bounded by the four next
named points takes its place because the scenery is good, and the
district quite accessible. But for beauty of scene the more remote
Georgetown-Montague River district is surely second to none, and without
fear of contradiction it may be termed picturesque and charming. The
six-mile run from Montague Junction to Montague through beautiful
woodlands, with occasional prospect of hill, valley and stream, is most
enjoyable; and lovely Montague, and quaint Georgetown with its wide,
quiet, and pleasant streets and modest little shore bungalows, are both
places that should be seen by all.
Georgetown carries on a small shipping trade, and fishing is an
industry. Anyone that loves a quiet and old-fashioned place, with grassy
streets and tranquil shore, will be sure to be at home in the pleasant
little resort. Steamers leave from here for Lower Montague,
Charlottetown, Pictou and the Magdalen Islands. There are ample
opportunities for boating and canoeing on the harbor and outflowing
rivers.
[Illustration: PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND]
1. A Cool Retreat, Montague
2. Montague
3. Montague
4. Woodland Scene, Montague
5. Five Generations
6. Fishing in the Dunk River
[Illustration]
From Charlottetown another easterly division of the Prince Edward Island
Railway, the most southerly of all, runs to Murray River and Murray
Harbor. Dipping south, and in the main following the contour of the
coast a few miles in, it has its terminus at the most southerly harbor
on the east coast.
The scenery along this route is quite interesting, and there are a
number of Scottish villages of small size along the way. Murray Harbor
is another little stopping place where there is a very homelike hotel at
which to sojourn. There is boating and driving, and, of course,
sea-fishing. Like Alberton and Tignish, etc., it is one of the quietest
places that can be found anywhere; and as there is good air, very
pleasant days may be spent with its hospitable people.
Lawrence W. Watson’s description of a summer scene is well adapted to
give a glimpse of Island life for those who are nature-lovers. “Some
love the open countryside where golden-rods wave their orange plumes,
and blue and white asters bestar the field borders. Others like the wet
swamp with its tangle of grasses and sedges and succulent plants
delighting in moisture. Some love the brookside fringed with the
white-flowered spikes of the snake-head, and the light graceful sprays
of the balsam dangling its golden jewels by the water’s edge.
“Others delight in the flats near the seashore where the prickly
saltwort roots, and silverweed spreads its finely cut, pinnate leaves
with their backing of silver, and above, on the banks, where the
Kingfisher nests, the pale yellow evening primrose mingles its blossoms
with those of the oxeye daisy, and of its sister, the mayweed with its
finely dissected leaves.
“But a more delectable retreat than any of these is the cool grateful
shade of the shadowy woodland, where the sun enters but shyly to
brighten and nourish, while the verdure may languish in the open beyond.
Here are the pearly-pink bells of the pyrolas, and the one-flowered
pyrola—that exquisitely scented, firm, waxen flower. Here the Clintonia
spreads out its three smooth leaves,—handsome, spotless, myrtle-hued
beauties—and later replaces its yellow-green lily-cups with berries
challenging the blue of the heavens.
“Here, too, the ‘wake-robin’—the shy, painted trillium—opens its three
tender dark-pencilled petals, resting in strong relief against the
background of its whorl of three leaves. Nearby the tenderest flower of
the woodland—the delicate white, purple-veined, lonely flowered wood
sorrel. Here, too, are orchids, and here we find the strange
Indian-pipe.
“Above us the cool waving canopy of foliage, around us the stately
columns of tree trunks, mosses and leaves thick-strewn pave the pathway,
fair forms of flowers enriching the carpet. Thus nature patterns her
spacious cathedral with pillars and arches, groined roof and rich
carving: the soft, balmy breezes breathe exquisite music and waft
towards heaven the flowers’ devotion—a subtle, sweet incense, grateful,
refreshing.”
Those from southern climes who seek these shores for cool summer joys
will be interested in a brief account of the Ice Boat Service between
Prince Edward Island and the mainland in the depth of winter. “During
about two months in mid-winter the crossing of the ice-crushing steamers
is supplemented by a service of ice-boats. These boats have double keels
which serve for runners, and sometimes the ice-fields are packed in
solidly between the two shores, enabling the boats to cross on the ice
without putting them into the water at all. Four leathern straps are
attached to each side of a boat for pulling it over the ice; and, of
course, the boats are strong and adapted to float the ice-strewn wave
when nearly open water has to be crossed. Rough or hummocky ice renders
the crossing very laborious and difficult, but frequently lanes of open
water enable the crews to row. Should snow storms arise there is danger
of losing the bearings, and travelling far out of the course. Compasses,
provisions, fur wraps, etc., are part of the regular equipment of this
ice-boat service. For a distance of about one mile on each side of the
Strait, the ice is attached solidly to the shore and is known as the
‘board ice.’ The crossing is made between Capes Tormentine and Traverse,
where the Strait is only nine miles wide. This leaves only seven miles
for the ice-boat ferry, but owing to the tide, which runs about four
miles an hour, carrying with it the ice fields, the distance travelled
by the boats is considerably increased. Teams carry the passengers from
the edge of the board ice to the railway stations. A trip by the capes
in winter is certainly an unique experience.”
Finally, it should be stated that the people of the Island, like the
climate, are pleasant and genial; and a stay in the “Garden of the Gulf”
is sure to bring the double reward of health and pleasure.
[Illustration: Truro Park—The Wishing Well]
_Moncton to the Atlantic over the Halifax Division_
[Illustration]
Going from Moncton, and turning east at Painsec Junction, the main line
of the Intercolonial Railway to Truro and Halifax may now be followed.
The line soon dips south and crosses the peninsula that juts out into
Chignecto Bay. Dorchester and Sackville are thus reached, and then the
boundary line is passed that marks an entrance into the province of Nova
Scotia.
The first district thus traversed is that of the Memramcook Valley, with
its interesting Acadian villages. The scenery of the almost level valley
and its high wooded ridges is very pleasant. Dorchester, with its
excellent farming land, has water communication with and is almost on
the Chignecto Bay. Sackville is a growing and prosperous place at the
mouth of the Tantramar River. It is widely known for the excellent
educational advantages it provides for the acquirement of many branches
of learning, by both sexes. The University of Mount Allison College
grants degrees in Divinity and Arts, and has honor courses in Classics,
Mathematics, Science, Philosophy and English Language and Literature. In
the study of Law it has an affiliation with the Dalhousie Law School.
The Academy and Commercial College is well equipped for good work, and
the Ladies’ College has a splendid music department (Conservatory of
Music) with every facility for thorough study, including a fine
three-manual pipe organ. The Owens’ Museum of Fine Arts, in connection
with the Owens’ Art Institution, has a notable collection of over four
hundred works of art. All of these institutions have an excellent
reputation, and they enjoy a liberal patronage from all over the
provinces. The Tantramar River also empties into Chignecto Bay. The
Tantramar marshes are widely known for their enormous crops of excellent
hay. Heavy shipments are made of fine cattle that have been raised in
this district.
[Illustration]
“Tantramar! Tantramar!
I see thy cool green plains afar.
Thy dykes where grey sea-grasses are,
Mine eyes behold them yet.”
A short railway line runs from Sackville to Cape Tormentine.
In winter the Northumberland Strait is frozen in heavy ice, through
which the regular summer steamships cannot force their way. Special
ice-breaking steamers are therefore placed on the most open route
between Pictou and Charlottetown or Georgetown; but the ice is
occasionally so thick that even these powerful vessels are unable to
force their way across the frozen strait. At such times the short
crossing from Cape Tormentine to Cape Traverse is used, and the mail is
carried in ice-boats with double keels made to act as “runners.” These
are pushed by hand over the ice, and put into open water as required. An
account of a trip in this novel kind of “ferry” forms part of the
description under the heading “Prince Edward Island.”
The Missiguash River being now passed, and the province of Nova Scotia
entered, a brief description of the main features of the seaboard
province is here given.
The peninsula of Nova Scotia is so nearly surrounded by water that it is
frequently termed an island. It is connected to New Brunswick and the
mainland by a comparatively narrow isthmus at the head of Chignecto Bay.
The province of Nova Scotia is made up of this peninsula and the
adjoining island of Cape Breton to the northeast, separated only by the
Strait of Canso, which is not much more than a mile in width at its
narrowest part.
As has already been stated, the four provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick,
Prince Edward Island, and Nova Scotia offer wonderful contrasts in
scenery and natural configuration. They also offer a pleasing variety of
climate. As would be expected, it is cooler the nearer the approach to
the open Atlantic shore; and it is cooler again the farther east and
north one proceeds along the Atlantic seaboard. From this it will be
understood that on the north, or Bay of Fundy and Northumberland Strait
shore, it is warmer than on the south or open Atlantic side. On the
north the climate approximates closely to that of the Lower St. Lawrence
and southern part of New Brunswick. The south shore, then, is the
coolest part of the Maritime Provinces, and on the south shore itself an
increasingly lower temperature may be enjoyed as progress is made up the
coast in an easterly direction. It is important to remember this, for
out of the variety thus provided it is possible to choose a climate
suited to almost every need. In the chapter “Where to go—Recommended
Places,” these features are clearly explained.
[Illustration]
The peninsular part of Nova Scotia is not nearly so mountainous as the
sister provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick, although it is much more
so than Prince Edward Island; but the island part of Nova Scotia, Cape
Breton, has ample variety of mountain and vale, and has in many parts of
it all the bold features found in rugged and mountainous countries. The
peninsula is not without its own mountains and chains of hills; but its
bold and striking scenery is found chiefly on the Atlantic coast side,
the rocky bays and headlands of which receive the full force of the
fierce winter gales.
Nova Scotia has a coast line of over one thousand miles, and it is rich
in bays, inlets and fine harbors. Its rivers, though numerous, are not
large. No great system of intercommunicating waterways is found in the
province, but the peninsula is so well watered by lake, river, and
stream that fully one fifth of its area is thus occupied. In Cape
Breton, for instance, the inland sea known as the Bras d’Or Lake is
about fifty miles long. It fully answers the purposes of great
intercommunicating waterways, for this enclosed sea has an interior
reach over a very large extent of country. Peninsular Nova Scotia has
numerous lakes, mostly of moderate and small dimensions, although
Rossignol Lake and a few others are quite large.
The province is bountifully blessed with many beautiful bays. The
easterly extension of the Bay of Fundy, known as Minas Basin, reaches
inland some sixty miles; and here the equinoctial tides have been known
to show the wonderful difference in level of forty to fifty feet.
The Maritime Provinces are bound together by the strongest ties. Each
province has its own advantages peculiar to its situation and natural
resources. In many cases what one has the other has not; and climate and
beauty of scene will be found in such delightful contrast in passing
from one province to the other that few not acquainted with these facts
could believe.
It is now matter of general knowledge that the early settlement of Nova
Scotia was made by the French. De Monts and Champlain explored parts of
the south shore, entered the Annapolis Basin, made choice of a site
there for settlement, and explored the Minas Basin. Later they founded
Port Royal, in the year 1605, but abandoned it a few years after. Some
Scottish settlers endeavored to open up the country. They made little
progress, and it was the French who increased most in numbers. Then came
the Acadian Expulsion, followed by a more rapid general settlement; for
by this time Halifax had been founded, German colonists began to arrive,
and, in later years, disbanded British regiments and United Empire
Loyalists commenced to swell the population. In the meantime the
province as part of Acadia, and later as Nova Scotia, had several times
been owned in turn by the French and English; but finally after the
taking of Quebec by Wolfe, and after the close of the American
Revolutionary War, a lasting peace ensued, and Nova Scotia, as part of
Canada and the British Empire, has prospered. Other details of history
that are of sufficient importance are brought out in connection with the
descriptions of localities.
[Illustration]
Resuming the description of the country traversed by, and that tributary
to, the Intercolonial Railway, at the boundary line of the two provinces
of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, the railway, immediately after
crossing the line, reaches Amherst, not far from Cumberland Basin.
The bright and prosperous town of Amherst is a pleasant centre for a
number of other interesting places. To the north is Tidnish on the
Northumberland Straits, a little watering place where good boating and
deep-sea fishing may be enjoyed. Stages run N.E. to Head of Amherst, and
there are other places, remote from the railroad, that are quite
interesting.
The works of the Chignecto Marine Transport Railway are within easy
reach by carriage. This abandoned project was intended to lift ships of
a thousand tons, place them on huge ship-carriages by means of hydraulic
power, and then haul them by locomotives to the terminus on the
Northumberland Straits near Tidnish, where they were again to be put in
the water and so save the great distance a vessel must now go to reach
the St. Lawrence from the Bay of Fundy.
A few miles north-west of Amherst are the ruins of Fort Cumberland
beyond the Aulac River. On this site formerly stood the French fort of
Beausejour. It was from Fort St. Lawrence, also in the immediate
neighborhood, that the attack was made on the French fort that resulted
in its capture. In revolutionary times the Americans attacked Fort
Cumberland after it had passed into the possession of the British. The
attack failed, and the Colonials were compelled to give up and retire on
the St. John River. The view of Fort Cumberland is still an interesting
one, and many Acadian relics have been found in the vicinity. The view
from the bastions of the old fort is superb and far-reaching.
[Illustration]
At Maccan Station coaches may be taken to Minudie and Joggins. It will
come as a surprise to many when they learn that the “Elysian Fields” are
near here. But such is the case, for that is the name of the rich
meadows near Minudie on the Chignecto Peninsula. The Joggins Shore is
not far from Minudie. It received its odd name from the remarkable
configuration of the cliffs which “jog in” and out so wonderfully that
many have been attracted here to study the phenomenon. The cliffs are
strikingly bold, often approaching four hundred feet in height. Fine
views may also be seen by taking the long drive to Apple River. Advocate
Harbor is another quaint and distant place, well worth a visit. Good
fishing is found on the upper waters of the Apple River which reach out
to Caribou Plains.
At Springhill Junction a short railroad leads west and south to
Parrsboro on the north shore of the Minas Basin. Here will be found a
pleasant little summer resort where boating and fishing may be enjoyed,
with good hunting in season. Fine views are obtained from Partridge
Island in front of the harbor. There are also good roads and pleasant
drives to places nearby. Moose River and Five Islands to the east may be
reached in this way, as well as Advocate Harbor and Cap d’Or on the
west. Massive Cape Blomidon, the end of the North Mountain chain, is
only eight miles distant on the projection that makes out from the
opposite or southern shore of Minas, and excellent views of it may be
had from the steamboat running between Parrsboro’ and Kingsport.
At River Philip and Oxford Junction, on the Intercolonial Railway, a
very pretty country is found, and both for fishing and country rambles
the district is an excellent one.
The country between Westchester and Folleigh Lake is remarkably
beautiful, and this, the Wentworth Valley, is one of the garden spots of
Canada. Many pretty views are had from the train as it climbs the
Cobequid Mountains which here run from east to west.
[Illustration: Wallace River, Wentworth Valley]
[Illustration]
A drive or, better still, a walk through the valley will bring a hundred
pleasures to those who love nature and the beautiful. Here is the
winding Wallace River, and here, too, are fifty tiny streams, waterfalls
and brooks. Some are dashing headlong and sparkling in the sun; others,
with white foam shaded to a cream by the overhanging trees, have inner
depths that the eye cannot fathom until accustomed to the narrow limits
of light and shade.
The air is musical with falling and rippling water, so here let us take
a seat by the side of this merry cascade and listen to Nature’s
harmonies. So various are the notes, each waterfall having its own, it
is not difficult to select sounds that make melodies. But whatever the
melody, the dominant harmony is that of joy and gladness, and as the eye
views mountain, valley, woodland, river, waterfall and plashing brook,
surely no fairer scene could well be imagined.
And listen to the birds as they add their merry roundelay.
“Break out and sing, ye happy birds!
Your tender music needs no words
To tell us everything.”
But the green shade of the woodland is inviting, and following the
gayest and most dashing of little streams that ever ran from mountain
side to woodland depths, we trace a path by the wild flowers, and pass
in, deeper and deeper. Right at the threshold is the daisy.
“No shame feels she, though in lowly place,
No envy of rivals gorgeously clad,
Contentment gleams from her pure, fresh face,
And her glance can gladden a heart that’s sad
By its radiant grace.”
But deeper in we go. What splendid solitude. How quickly every fibre
responds to the thrilling call of nature. The faintly rustling leaves,
the plash of the brook, now subdued to becoming solemnity, the distant
silvery note of the bird at the edge of the forest, the shade and
restful monotone of the filtered light, the delightful air, the unbroken
calm, and above all the mysterious note of life and creation that
emanates from the very ground—all these compel thought and enjoyment of
the kind that ever leaves an ineffaceable imprint on the memory.
[Illustration]
What noble trees! Here is one that throws lofty arms far out, and covers
with a fresh green roof a space that is rich in violets and many of the
humbler flowers. And see! in sheltered spot, far in and screened from
the mellow light, this tiny orchid beneath the shelter of her giant
brother:
“Nestled at his root
Is beauty, such as blooms not in the glare
Of the broad sun.”
But now in company with our little woodland stream we pass out into the
more open valley. As we do so a sound as of a swelling echo from the
mountain range to the left falls on the ear, like unto the great forest
murmur of the bending pines when under the influence of a strong upland
breeze. It increases more and more, until suddenly it is apparent that
the sound comes from the twin-mountain chain to the right. Looking up,
and following the wave of sound with straining eyes, we search for the
cause, without perceiving it. Far up we gaze, where the trees and the
fleecy white clouds are outlined against the deep blue of the sky; and
then we realize that an Intercolonial train has passed high up in the
air, somewhere between sky and valley, but entirely concealed by the
dense forest growth—so much so that not even a trace of smoke or vapor
can be seen, so effectually have they been filtered and dissipated by
the thick woodland screen.
“Oh! tenderly deepen the woodland glooms,
And merrily sway the beeches;
Breathe delicately the willow blooms,
And the pines rehearse new speeches;
The elms toss high till they reach the sky,
Pale catkins the yellow birch launches,
But the tree I love all the greenwood above
Is the maple of sunny branches.”
[Illustration: Bungalow, Folleigh Lake]