Mr. Folsom accompanied me to call upon Mr. Ticknor, the historian of

Spanish literature. He has a fine house, at the corner of Park and

Beacon Streets, perhaps the very best position in Boston. A marble hall,

a wide and easy staircase, a respectable old man-servant evidently long

at home in the mansion, to admit us. We entered the library, Mr. Folsom

considerably in advance, as being familiar with the house; and I heard

Mr. Ticknor greet him in friendly tones, their scholar-like and

bibliographical pursuits, I suppose, bringing them into frequent

conjunction. Then I was introduced, and received with great distinction,

but yet without any ostentatious flourish of courtesy. Mr. Ticknor has a

great head, and his hair is gray or grayish. You recognize in him at

once the man who knows the world, the scholar, too, which probably is his

more distinctive character, though a little more under the surface. He

was in his slippers; a volume of his book was open on a table, and

apparently he had been engaged in revising or annotating it. His library

is a stately and beautiful room for a private dwelling, and itself looks

large and rich. The fireplace has a white marble frame about it,

sculptured with figures and reliefs. Over it hung a portrait of Sir

Walter Scott, a copy, I think, of the one that represents him in Melrose

Abbey.

Mr. Ticknor was most kind in his alacrity to solve the point on which Mr.

Folsom, in my behalf, had consulted him (as to whether there had been any

English translation of the Tales of Cervantes); and most liberal in his

offers of books from his library. Certainly, he is a fine example of a

generous-principled scholar, anxious to assist the human intellect in its

efforts and researches. Methinks he must have spent a happy life (as

happiness goes among mortals), writing his great three-volumed book for

twenty years; writing it, not for bread, nor with any uneasy desire of

fame, but only with a purpose to achieve something true and enduring. He

is, I apprehend, a man of great cultivation and refinement, and with

quite substance enough to be polished and refined, without being worn too

thin in the process,--a man of society. He related a singular story of

an attempt of his to become acquainted with me years ago, when he mistook

my kinsman Eben for me.

At half past four, I went to Mr. Thompson's, the artist who has requested

to paint my picture. This was the second sitting. The portrait looked

dimly out from the canvas, as from a cloud, with something that I could

recognize as my outline, but no strong resemblance as yet. I have had

three portraits taken before this,--an oil picture, a miniature, and a

crayon sketch,--neither of them satisfactory to those most familiar with

my physiognomy. In fact, there is no such thing as a true portrait; they

are all delusions, and I never saw any two alike, nor hardly any two that

I would recognize, merely by the portraits themselves, as being of the

same man. A bust has more reality. This artist is a man of thought, and

with no mean idea of his art; a Swedenborgian, or, as he prefers to call

it, a member of the New Church; and I have generally found something

marked in men who adopt that faith. He had painted a good picture of

Bryant. He seems to me to possess truth in himself, and to aim at it in

his artistic endeavors.

May 6th.--This morning it is an easterly rain (south-easterly, I should

say just now at twelve o'clock), and I went at nine, by appointment, to

sit for my picture. The artist painted awhile; but soon found that he

had not so much light as was desirable, and complained that his tints

were as muddy as the weather. Further sitting was therefore postponed

till to-morrow at eleven. It will be a good picture; but I see no

assurance, as yet, of the likeness. An artist's apartment is always very

interesting to me, with its pictures, finished and unfinished; its little

fancies in the pictorial way,--as here two sketches of children among

flowers and foliage, representing Spring and Summer, Winter and Autumn

being yet to come out of the artist's mild; the portraits of his wife and

children; here a clergyman, there a poet; here a woman with the stamp of

reality upon her, there a feminine conception which we feel not to have

existed. There was an infant Christ, or rather a child Christ, not

unbeautiful, but scarcely divine. I love the odor of paint in an

artist's room; his palette and all his other tools have a mysterious

charm for me. The pursuit has always interested my imagination more than

any other, and I remember before having my first portrait taken, there

was a great bewitchery in the idea, as if it were a magic process. Even

now, it is not without interest to me.

I left Mr. Thompson before ten, and took my way through the sloppy

streets to the Athenaeum, where I looked over the newspapers and

periodicals, and found two of my old stories (Peter Goldthwaite and the

Shaker Bridal) published as original in the last London Metropolitan!

The English are much more unscrupulous and dishonest pirates than

ourselves. However, if they are poor enough to perk themselves in such

false feathers as these, Heaven help them! I glanced over the stories,

and they seemed painfully cold and dull. It is the more singular that

these should be so published, inasmuch as the whole book was republished

in London, only a few months ago. Mr. Fields tells me that two

publishers in London had advertised the Scarlet Letter as in press, each

book at a shilling.

* * * * * *

Certainly life is made much more tolerable, and man respects himself far

more, when he takes his meals with a certain degree of order and state.

There should be a sacred law in these matters; and, as consecrating the

whole business, the preliminary prayer is a good and real ordinance. The

advance of man from a savage and animal state may be as well measured by

his mode and morality of dining, as by any other circumstance. At Mr.

Fields's, soon after entering the house, I heard the brisk and cheerful

notes of a canary-bird, singing with great vivacity, and making its voice

echo through the large rooms. It was very pleasant, at the close of the

rainy, east-windy day, and seemed to fling sunshine through the dwelling.

May 7th.--I did not go out yesterday afternoon, but after tea I went to

Parker's. The drinking and smoking shop is no bad place to see one kind

of life. The front apartment is for drinking. The door opens into Court

Square, and is denoted, usually, by some choice specimens of dainties

exhibited in the windows, or hanging beside the door-post; as, for

instance, a pair of canvas-back ducks, distinguishable by their

delicately mottled feathers; an admirable cut of raw beefsteak; a ham,

ready boiled, and with curious figures traced in spices on its outward

fat; a half, or perchance the whole, of a large salmon, when in season; a

bunch of partridges, etc., etc. A screen stands directly before the

door, so as to conceal the interior from an outside barbarian. At the

counter stand, at almost all hours,--certainly at all hours when I have

chanced to observe,--tipplers, either taking a solitary glass, or

treating all round, veteran topers, flashy young men, visitors from the

country, the various petty officers connected with the law, whom the

vicinity of the Court-House brings hither. Chiefly, they drink plain

liquors, gin, brandy, or whiskey, sometimes a Tom and Jerry, a gin

cocktail (which the bar-tender makes artistically, tossing it in a large

parabola from one tumbler to another, until fit for drinking), a

brandy-smash, and numerous other concoctions. All this toping goes

forward with little or no apparent exhilaration of spirits; nor does this

seem to be the object sought,--it being rather, I imagine, to create a

titillation of the coats of the stomach and a general sense of

invigoration, without affecting the brain. Very seldom does a man grow

wild and unruly.

The inner room is hung round with pictures and engravings of various

kinds,--a painting of a premium ox, a lithograph of a Turk and of a

Turkish lady, . . . . and various showily engraved tailors'

advertisements, and other shop-bills; among them all, a small painting of

a drunken toper, sleeping on a bench beside the grog-shop,--a ragged,

half-hatless, bloated, red-nosed, jolly, miserable-looking devil, very

well done, and strangely suitable to the room in which it hangs. Round

the walls are placed some half a dozen marble-topped tables, and a

centre-table in the midst; most of them strewn with theatrical and other

show-bills; and the large theatre-bills, with their type of gigantic

solidity and blackness, hung against the walls.

Last evening, when I entered, there was one guest somewhat overcome with

liquor, and slumbering with his chair tipped against one of the marble

tables. In the course of a quarter of an hour, he roused himself (a

plain, middle-aged man), and went out with rather an unsteady step, and a

hot, red face. One or two others were smoking, and looking over the

papers, or glancing at a play-bill. From the centre of the ceiling

descended a branch with two gas-burners, which sufficiently illuminated

every corner of the room. Nothing is so remarkable in these bar-rooms

and drinking-places, as the perfect order that prevails: if a man gets

drunk, it is no otherwise perceptible than by his going to sleep, or his

inability to walk.

Pacing the sidewalk in front of this grog-shop of Parker's (or sometimes,

on cold and rainy days, taking his station inside), there is generally to

be observed an elderly ragamuffin, in a dingy and battered hat, an old

surtout, and a more than shabby general aspect; a thin face and red nose,

a patch over one eye, and the other half drowned in moisture. He leans

in a slightly stooping posture on a stick, forlorn and silent, addressing

nobody, but fixing his one moist eye on you with a certain intentness.

he is a man who has been in decent circumstances at some former period of

his life, but, falling into decay (perhaps by dint of too frequent visits

at Parker's bar), he now haunts about the place, as a ghost haunts the

spot where he was murdered, "to collect his rents," as Parker says,--that

is, to catch an occasional ninepence from some charitable acquaintances,

or a glass of liquor at the bar. The word "ragamuffin," which I have

used above, does not accurately express the man, because there is a sort

of shadow or delusion of respectability about him, and a sobriety too,

and a kind of decency in his groggy and red-nosed destitution.

Underground, beneath the drinking and smoking rooms, is Parker's

eating-hall, extending all the way to Court Street. All sorts of good

eating may be had there, and a gourmand may feast at what expense he

will.

I take an interest in all the nooks and crannies and every development of

cities; so here I try to make a description of the view from the back

windows of a house in the centre of Boston, at which I now glance in the

intervals of writing. The view is bounded, at perhaps thirty yards'

distance, by a row of opposite brick dwellings, standing, I think, on

Temple Place; houses of the better order, with tokens of genteel families

visible in all the rooms betwixt the basements and the attic windows in

the roof; plate-glass in the rear drawing-rooms, flower-pots in some of

the windows of the upper stories. Occasionally, a lady's figure, either

seated or appearing with a flitting grace, or dimly manifest farther

within the obscurity of the room. A balcony, with a wrought-iron fence

running along under the row of drawing-room windows, above the basement.

In the space betwixt the opposite row of dwellings and that in which I am

situated are the low out-houses of the above-described houses, with flat

roofs; or solid brick walls, with walks on them, and high railings, for

the convenience of the washerwomen in hanging out their clothes. In the

intervals are grass-plots, already green, because so sheltered; and

fruit-trees, now beginning to put forth their leaves, and one of them, a

cherry-tree, almost in full blossom. Birds flutter and sing among these

trees. I should judge it a good site for the growth of delicate fruit;

for, quite enclosed on all sides by houses, the blighting winds cannot

molest the trees. They have sunshine on them a good part of the day,

though the shadow must come early, and I suppose there is a rich soil

about the roots. I see grapevines clambering against one wall, and also

peeping over another, where the main body of the vine is invisible to me.

In another place, a frame is erected for a grapevine, and probably it

will produce as rich clusters as the vines of Madeira, here in the heart

of the city, in this little spot of fructifying earth, while the thunder

of wheels rolls about it on every side. The trees are not all

fruit-trees. One pretty well-grown buttonwood-tree aspires upward above

the roofs of the houses. In the full verdure of summer, there will be

quite a mass or curtain of foliage between the hither and the thither row

of houses.

Afternoon.--At eleven, I went to give Mr. Thompson a sitting for my

picture. I like the painter. He seems to reverence his art and to aim

at truth in it, as I said before; a man of gentle disposition too, and

simplicity of life and character. I seated myself in the pictorial

chair, with the only light in the room descending upon me from a high

opening, almost at the ceiling, the rest of the sole window being

shuttered. He began to work, and we talked in an idle and desultory

way,--neither of us feeling very conversable,--which he attributed to the

atmosphere, it being a bright, west-windy, bracing day. We talked about

the pictures of Christ, and how inadequate and untrue they are. He said

he thought artists should attempt only to paint child-Christs, human

powers being inadequate to the task of painting such purity and holiness

in a manly development. Then he said that an idea of a picture had

occurred to him that morning, while reading a chapter in the New

Testament,--how "they parted his garments among them, and for his vesture

did cast lots." His picture was to represent the soldier to whom the

garment without a seam had fallen, after taking it home and examining it,

and becoming impressed with a sense of the former wearer's holiness. I

do not quite see how he would make such a picture tell its own story;--

but I find the idea suggestive to my own mind, and I think I could make

something of it. We talked of physiognomy and impressions of character,

--first impressions,--and how apt they are to come aright in the face of

the closest subsequent observation.

There were several visitors in the course of the sitting, one a

gentleman, a connection from the country, with whom the artist talked

about family matters and personal affairs,--observing on the poorness of

his own business, and that he had thoughts of returning to New York. I

wish he would meet with better success. Two or three ladies also looked

in. Meanwhile Mr. Thompson had been painting with more and more

eagerness, casting quick, keen glances at me, and then making hasty

touches on the picture, as if to secure with his brush what he had caught

with his eye. He observed that he was just getting interested in the

work, and I could recognize the feeling that was in him as akin to what I

have experienced myself in the glow of composition. Nevertheless, he

seemed able to talk about foreign matters, through it all. He continued

to paint in this rapid way, up to the moment of closing the sitting; when

he took the canvas from the easel, without giving me time to mark what

progress he had made, as he did the last time.

The artist is middle-sized, thin, a little stooping, with a quick,

nervous movement. He has black hair, not thick, a beard under his chin,

a small head, but well-developed forehead, black eyebrows, eyes keen, but

kindly, and a dark face, not indicating robust health, but agreeable in

its expression. His voice is gentle and sweet, and such as comes out

from amidst refined feelings. He dresses very simply and unpictorially

in a gray frock or sack, and does not seem to think of making a picture

of himself in his own person.

At dinner to-day there was a young Frenchman, whom ------ befriended a

year or so ago, when he had not another friend in America, and obtained

employment for him in a large dry-goods establishment. He is a young man

of eighteen or thereabouts, with smooth black hair, neatly dressed; his

face showing a good disposition, but with nothing of intellect or

character. It is funny to think of this poor little Frenchman, a

Parisian too, eating our most un-French victuals,--our beefsteaks, and

roasts, and various homely puddings and hams, and all things most

incongruent to his hereditary stomach; but nevertheless he eats most

cheerfully and uncomplainingly. He has not a large measure of French

vivacity, never rattles, never dances, nor breaks into ebullitions of

mirth and song; on the contrary, I have never known a youth of his age

more orderly and decorous. He is kind-hearted and grateful, and evinces

his gratitude to the mother of the family and to his benefactress by

occasional presents, not trifling when measured by his small emolument of

five dollars per week. Just at this time he is confined to his room by

indisposition, caused, it is suspected, by a spree on Sunday last. Our

gross Saxon orgies would soon be the ruin of his French constitution.

A thought to-day. Great men need to be lifted upon the shoulders of the

whole world, in order to conceive their great ideas or perform their

great deeds. That is, there must be an atmosphere of greatness round

about them. A hero cannot be a hero unless in an heroic world.

May 8th.--I went last evening to the National Theatre to see a pantomime.

It was Jack the Giant-Killer, and somewhat heavy and tedious. The

audience was more noteworthy than the play. The theatre itself is for

the middling and lower classes, and I had not taken my seat in the most

aristocratic part of the house; so that I found myself surrounded chiefly

by young sailors, Hanover Street shopmen, mechanics, and other people of

that class. It is wonderful! the difference that exists in the personal

aspect and dress, and no less in the manners, of people in this quarter

of the city, as compared with other parts of it.

One would think that Oak Hall should give a common garb and air to the

great mass of the Boston population; but it seems not to be so; and

perhaps what is most singular is, that the natural make of the men has a

conformity and suitableness to the dress. Glazed caps and Palo Alto hats

were much worn. It is a pity that this picturesque and comparatively

graceful hat should not have been generally adopted, instead of falling

to the exclusive use of a rowdy class.

In the next box to me were two young women, with an infant, but to which

of them appertaining I could not at first discover. One was a large,

plump girl, with a heavy face, a snub nose, coarse-looking, but

good-natured, and with no traits of evil,--save, indeed, that she had on

the vilest gown of dirty white cotton, so pervadingly dingy that it was

white no longer, as it seemed to me. The sleeves were short, and ragged

at the borders, and her shawl, which she took off on account of the heat,

was old and faded,--the shabbiest and dirtiest dress that I ever saw a

woman wear. Yet she was plump, and looked comfortable in body and mind.

I imagine that she must have had a better dress at home, but had come to

the theatre extemporaneously, and, not going to the dress circle,

considered her ordinary gown good enough for the occasion. The other

girl seemed as young or younger than herself. She was small, with a

particularly intelligent and pleasant face, not handsome, perhaps, but as

good or better than if it were. It was mobile with whatever sentiment

chanced to be in her mind, as quick and vivacious a face in its movements

as I have ever seen; cheerful, too, and indicative of a sunny, though I

should think it might be a hasty, temper. She was dressed in a dark gown

(chintz, I suppose the women call it), a good, homely dress, proper

enough for the fireside, but a strange one to appear in at a theatre.

Both these girls appeared to enjoy themselves very much,--the large and

heavy one in her own duller mode; the smaller manifesting her interest by

gestures, pointing at the stage, and with so vivid a talk of countenance

that it was precisely as if she had spoken. She was not a brunette, and

this made the vivacity of her expression the more agreeable. Her

companion, on the other hand, was so dark, that I rather suspected her to

have a tinge of African blood.

There were two men who seemed to have some connection with these girls,--

one an elderly, gray-headed personage, well-stricken in liquor, talking

loudly and foolishly, but good-humoredly; the other a young man, sober,

and doing his best to keep his elder friend quiet. The girls seemed to

give themselves no uneasiness about the matter.--Both the men wore Palo

Alto hats. I could not make out whether either of the men were the

father of the child, though I was inclined to set it down as a family

party.

As the play went on, the house became crowded and oppressively warm, and

the poor little baby grew dark red, or purple almost, with the

uncomfortable heat in its small body. It must have been accustomed to

discomfort, and have concluded it to be the condition of mortal life,

else it never would have remained so quiet. Perhaps it had been quieted

with a sleeping-potion. The two young women were not negligent of it;

but passed it to and fro between them, each willingly putting herself to

inconvenience for the sake of tending it. But I really feared it might

die in some kind of a fit, so hot was the theatre, so purple with heat,

yet strangely quiet, was the child. I was glad to hear it cry at last;

but it did not cry with any great rage and vigor, as it should, but in a

stupid kind of way. Hereupon the smaller of the two girls, after a

little inefficacious dandling, at once settled the question of maternity

by nursing her baby. Children must be hard to kill, however injudicious

the treatment. The two girls and their cavaliers remained till nearly

the close of the play. I should like well to know who they are,--of what

condition in life, and whether reputable as members of the class to which

they belong. My own judgment is that they are so. Throughout the

evening, drunken young sailors kept stumbling into and out of the boxes,

calling to one another from different parts of the house, shouting to the

performers, and singing the burden of songs. It was a scene of life in

the rough.

Passages from the American Notebooks, Volume 2. · 第 10 / 15 段