PLANES.
=18. Planes.=--A standard plane of the present time is shown in Fig.
44. The bottom of this plane is of iron. Fig. 45 shows a plane with the
same adjustments in which the bottom is of wood. Planes are made in
different sizes. As certain lengths are more suitable for certain kinds
of work they have been given distinguishing names such as jack-plane,
smooth-plane, fore-plane, jointer. Fig. 44 shows the jack-plane.
[Illustration: FIG. 44.]
[Illustration: FIG. 45.]
The two irons of the plane, the plane-iron or plane-bit, and the
cap-iron are fastened together by means of a stout screw. Fig. 46.
This cap-iron serves a double purpose. First: It stiffens the plane
iron; second, it serves to bend and break the shaving and thereby
prevent a splitting action in front of the cutting edge. This action
would surely occur were the grain in the least unfavorable and the
cap-iron not used. Fig. 47.
[Illustration:
1 Plane-Iron.
2 Cap-Iron.
3 Plane-Iron Screw.
4 Cap.
5 Cap-Screw.
6 Frog.
7 “Y” Adjustment.
8 Adjusting Nut.
9 Lateral Adjustment.
10 Frog Screw.
11 Handle.
12 Knob.
13 Handle “Bolt & Nut”.
14 Knob “Bolt & Nut”.
15 Handle Screw.
16 Bottom.
FIG. 46.]
[Illustration: FIG. 47.]
[Illustration: FIG. 48.]
=19. Setting the Blade.=--The cap-iron should extend to within
one-sixteenth of an inch of the cutting edge of the plane-iron in the
smooth-plane and three thirty-seconds in the jack-plane. Fig. 48.
The screw which holds the plane-iron and cap-iron together must be
fastened with a screwdriver--many carpenters use the plane-iron for
this purpose--tightly as possible, otherwise a few strokes of the plane
and the plane-iron will have been forced up so that the cutting edge
will not touch the wood. The reason for this action will be understood
when it is seen that the lever of the brass adjusting nut does not act
directly on the cap-iron but only on the plane-iron as it is carried
along by being fastened with this screw to the cap-iron.
The cap-iron and plane-iron are fastened in the throat of the plane by
a cap on one end of which is a little lever or cam.
Should this cam fail to hold the irons firmly, the screw which holds
the cap to the frog should be turned with the screwdriver. It should be
remembered, however, that this screw, once set, seldom needs adjusting.
Beginners frequently, in ignorance, place the plane-iron and cap-iron
together so that the side of the plane-iron having the bevel is next
the cap-iron. This results in a loose acting cam and they should look
to see that the irons are properly set before changing the screw.
Should it be impossible to force the cam into place without great
pressure, first look to see whether the blade rests flat upon the frog
before releasing the screw. Frequently the little lever which should
enter the small opening in the cap-iron will be found to have entered
the opening in the plane-iron only.
=20. Adjustment of the Iron.=--There are two adjustments for the blade
of the modern plane. The first consists in turning the thumb-screw or
adjusting nut, Fig. 46, that the plane iron may cut a thicker or a
thinner shaving. The direction in which it should be turned to give the
desired result must be learned by experiment, for in some planes it is
the reverse of what it is in others.
A little observation of the action of the screw upon the lever which
connects it to the plane iron will show that there is often quite a
little lost motion so that it becomes necessary to turn the screw a
little before the iron is raised or lowered any. One soon learns by
the sense of feeling when the lost motion has been taken up.
The second adjustment is by means of the lever, 9, Fig. 46. Moving this
lever to the right or the left serves to straighten the plane-iron, so
that the cutting edge shall extend evenly through the mouth and not
take a shaving thicker at one side of the iron than at the other.
[Illustration: FIG. 49.]
In adjusting a plane-iron, turn the plane upside down with the toe
towards you, hold it toward the light and sight along the bottom, Fig.
49. If the plane-iron projects, observe whether it projects evenly or
not. Usually one side will be found to project more than the other.
Move the adjusting lever until it shall project uniformly. The cutting
edge should project about the thickness of a piece of drawing paper for
average work.
[Illustration: FIG. 50.]
=21. The Jack-Plane.=--The jack-plane is about thirteen inches long.
Where a full equipment of planes is at hand, the plane-iron of the
jack-plane is ground slightly rounding as is shown in Fig. 50 A. The
purpose of this plane is to remove rough or large quantities of wood
and this shape of blade is best suited for that purpose. Of course the
surface of the wood is left in hollows and ridges, and it is necessary
to use another plane with a plane-iron ground straight and set
shallower in order to smooth the surface.
In manual-training schools where the jack-plane is made to serve the
purpose of smooth-plane also, the plane-iron is sharpened straight
across and the corners slightly rounded, B, Fig. 50.
=22. The Smooth-Plane.=--The smooth-plane is shorter than the
jack-plane. Fig. 51. It is used, as its name implies, for smoothing
surfaces. As the straightening is supposed to have been previously
done, the shorter length is no disadvantage. For fine work the cap-iron
of this plane may be set as close as one thirty-second of an inch
to the cutting edge of the plane-iron. The plane-iron should be set
correspondingly shallow.
[Illustration: FIG. 51.]
=23. The Jointer.=--This plane is used for straightening long and
uneven stock. It is most commonly used for preparing the parts for glue
joints. Fig. 52.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
Its advantage lies in its length, often two feet or more, which
prevents the blade from cutting in the hollow places until all of the
high places have been leveled. A short plane would simply follow the
irregularities, smoothing but not straightening. The plane-iron of the
jointer should be ground straight across.
Fore-planes are short jointers, next in size to the jack-planes, and
are used for such work as straightening the edges of doors, windows,
etc., when fitting them.
=24. The Block-Plane.=--The block-plane is about six inches long. Fig.
53. It is made especially for cutting across the end of the wood. In
addition to the adjusting nut, which is in a different position but
serves the same purpose as in the jack-plane, and the lateral adjusting
lever, there is a lever for adjusting the size of the opening at the
mouth of this plane.
[Illustration: FIG. 53.]
The block-plane differs from the planes just described in that it has
no cap-iron, none being needed in end-planing. The plane iron is put in
place with the bevel side up instead of down as in the other planes.
The block-plane is not a necessity where a vise can be used for
holding the piece to be planed. A smooth-plane or jack-plane may, if
the plane-iron be set very shallow, do the work just as well. The
block-plane is used mostly by carpenters in fitting together pieces
which cannot be taken to the vise. Here the smallness of the plane and
the fact that but one hand is needed to operate it are of very great
advantage.
=25. The Wooden Plane.=--The old-fashioned wooden planes are still
preferred by some woodworkers. The iron bodied planes have displaced
them because of the ease with which they can be adjusted rather than
because they produce any better results. Wooden planes are subject to
warpage and as the bottoms become uneven thru wear, it is necessary to
straighten and level them occasionally. The plane-iron and cap-iron of
the wooden plane are fastened in the throat of the plane by means of
a wooden wedge. This wedge is driven in place with the hammer. Fig.
54 shows the manner of holding the plane while setting the irons and
wedge. If the plane-iron does not project enough, the iron is lightly
tapped as indicated. If too much projects, the stock is tapped as in
Fig. 55. This figure also illustrates the manner of removing the wedge,
two or three blows being sufficient to release it so that it can be
withdrawn with the hand. In setting the plane-iron, should either
corner project more than the other, tap the side of the iron.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.]
[Illustration: FIG. 55.]
[Illustration: FIG. 56.]
Fig. 56 shows the manner of holding the smooth plane in releasing the
wedge, as well as when the cutting edge projects too much.
=26. Planing First Surface True.=--A true surface is one which is
straight as to its length and width and which has its surface at the
four corners in the same plane. Select for this first surface, which
we shall call the face side, the better of the two broad surfaces.
Knots, sap, wind, shakes, etc., should there be any, must be taken into
account when passing judgment. Often the two sides are so nearly alike
that there is little reason for choice.
Where several parts are to be fitted together, the faces are turned
in; in this case, the best surfaces should not be selected for faces.
Chapter VII, section 75.
[Illustration: FIG. 57.]
[Illustration: FIG. 58.]
Before beginning to plane hold the piece toward the light, close one
eye and sight as in Fig. 57. If the surface is not warped or in wind,
the back arris ab will appear directly behind the front arris cd. Also
sight the arrises for straightness, Fig. 58, being careful to hold so
as to get the full benefit of the light. Again, test from arris to
arris, Fig. 59. The try-square may be used either side up, but the beam
must not be held against either edge. It is not for squareness but for
straightness that this test is made.
[Illustration: FIG. 59.]
Notice the direction of the grain and place the piece so as not to
plane against it. In Fig. 60 plane from A toward B or the surface
will be roughened instead of smoothed. When the stock is rough, the
direction of the grain cannot be told readily. A few strokes of the
plane will give the desired information. As most stock is to be planed
to size, it is well to test with the rule before beginning to plane,
so as to know just how much margin has been allowed. If you find
you cannot true this first surface without getting the piece within
one-sixteenth of an inch of the thickness required, ask your instructor
to show you where the trouble lies.
[Illustration: FIG. 60.]
These tests ought to give the worker a pretty fair idea of what and how
much he dare plane, so that when he begins he may work intelligently.
As few shavings as possible, and those thin ones, with the proper
result attained, show forethought and care. Nowhere can good, common
sense be used to better advantage than in learning to plane.
When planes are not in use they should be laid on their sides, or
otherwise placed so that the cutting edge shall not touch anything.
For roughing off and straightening broad surfaces, the jack-plane
should be used, and this followed by the smooth-plane.
When using the plane, stand with the right side to the bench; avoid a
stooping position. Fig. 61. The plane should rest flat upon the wood
from start to finish. Press heavily upon the knob in starting and upon
the handle in finishing the stroke. Unless care is taken to hold the
plane level in starting and stopping, the result will be as indicated
in Fig. 62 A.
[Illustration: FIG. 61.]
[Illustration: FIG. 62.]
Take as long a shaving as the nature of the work will permit. In
planing long boards or where it is desired to lower one particular
place only, it becomes necessary to stop the stroke before the end of
the board is reached. That no mark shall show at the place where the
plane-iron is lifted, it is necessary to feather the shaving. This is
done by holding the toe of the plane upon the board and raising the
heel as the stroke proceeds, beginning just before the stopping point
is reached. If the cut is to commence other than at the end of the
piece, lower the heel after having started the forward stroke with the
toe upon the board.
It is customary to raise the heel of the plane slightly on the backward
stroke that the edge may not be dulled.
When the surface has been planed so that it fulfills the tests by
sighting described above, an additional test may be given it. Should
the board be of any considerable width--three or more inches--the
following test will prove sufficient: Place a straight-edge lengthwise,
then crosswise the surface planed and along each of its two diagonals.
If no light can be seen between the piece and the straight-edge in any
of these four tests, the surface may be considered level or true. Fig.
63.
[Illustration: FIG. 63.]
[Illustration: FIG. 64.]
A second test, one which will answer for narrow as well as broad
surfaces, differs from the above only in the manner of determining
whether the surface is in wind or not. Two sticks, called winding
sticks, are prepared by planing their two opposite edges straight and
parallel to each other. These sticks are placed across the surface to
be tested, close to the ends, and a sight taken over their top edges.
If the surface is in wind the edges cannot be made to sight so that
one edge will appear directly back of the other, Fig. 64; one end of
the back stick will appear high, at the same time the other one will
appear low with reference to the edge of the fore stick. The back
corner is high only as compared with the fore corner. The wind may be
taken out of the surface just as well by planing the fore corner which
is diagonally opposite. Usually, equal amounts should be planed from
the surface at each of these corners. If, however, the board is thicker
at one corner than the other, it is best to take the whole amount at
the thicker corner.
=27. Face Side, Face Edge.=--The first surface and the first edge
planed serve a special purpose and are given special names. The first
surface is called the face side, and the first edge, the face edge;
both may be referred to as the faces. These faces are sometimes known
by other names such as working face and joint edge, marked face and
marked edge, etc., but their meaning is the same.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.]
That these faces may be known, they are marked with pencil with what
are called face marks. There are various ways of making face marks.
Unless otherwise instructed, the marks may be made as in Fig. 65; for
the face side, a light slanting line about one inch long extending to
the edge which is to become the face edge; for the face edge, two light
lines across the edge. The marks on both face side and face edge should
be placed about the middle of the piece and close together.
These two surfaces are the only ones marked. From one or the other
of these, measurements and tests are made. In squaring up stock,
for illustration (which means to reduce a piece of rough lumber to
definite length, width and thickness so that it shall have smooth,
flat sides at right angles to each other) the gage block is held
against one or the other of these faces only, and the beam of the
try-square when testing for squareness is placed against one or the
other of these faces only.
=28. Planing First Edge Square with Face Side.=--Make a preliminary
test with the eye before beginning to plane. Sight the arrises of
the edge to see where it needs straightening. Examine the end to see
which arris is high. Also look to see which way the grain runs. Avoid
imperfections in the wood as far as possible in choosing this edge.
It is the part of wisdom to examine the plane-iron to see that the
surface planing has not caused the cutting edge to project unevenly.
A plane, set out of true, is likely to cause hours of extra work; it
defeats every effort that may be made to hold the plane properly.
Strive to get shavings the full length of the piece, especially on the
last few strokes.
The smooth-plane is little if ever used for edge planing on account of
its short length. In using the jack-plane in which the edge is slightly
rounded, thus making a shaving thicker in the middle than at the edges,
avoid tilting the plane to make it cut on one side rather than the
other. Move the whole plane over to the high side so that the middle of
the cutting edge shall be directly over the high place. Keep the sides
of the plane parallel with the edge so as to get the full benefit of
the length of the plane.
The two tests which this first edge must fulfill are: First, that it
shall be straight; second, that it shall be square with the face side.
Fig. 6, Chapter I, shows the method of testing for squareness. As in
planing the face side, try to accomplish the desired result with as few
shavings as possible.
The caution about planing the first surface, where a definite size is
to be attained, applies equally to planing the first edge.
When the edge has been properly trued, put on the face marks suitable
for the face edge.
=29. Finishing the Second Edge.=--A line gaged from the face edge
indicates the proper stopping place in planing the second edge. This
line, if lightly made, should be half planed off.
As the line is parallel with the face edge, no straight edge test is
necessary. The try-square test for squareness, the beam being held
against the face side, must be frequently applied when approaching the
gage line.
Where the amount of waste stock to be planed is about an eighth of an
inch, the plane-iron may be set a little deeper than average. When near
the line, however, it must be set quite shallow. If the waste stock
measures more than three sixteenths of an inch, the rip-saw should be
used, sawing parallel to the gage line and about one-eighth of an inch
away from it.
=30. Finishing the Second Side.=--Lines gaged from the face side on the
two edges show the amount to be planed.
The test for this side is made by placing the straight-edge across the
piece from arris to arris as the planing proceeds, to see that the
middle shall be neither high nor low when the gage lines have been
reached. No other test is necessary; a little thought will show the
reason.
Never attempt to work without lines. If by mistake you plane out your
line, take the piece to your instructor at once, unless you have been
otherwise directed, that he may tell you what to do.
=31. Planing the First End Square.=--See that the cutting edge is very
sharp and that the plane-iron is set perfectly true and very shallow.
Examine one of the ends of the piece by placing the beam of the
try-square against the face side then against face edge to locate the
high places. Fig. 6.
[Illustration: FIG. 66.]
In free end planing, the cutting edge must not be allowed to reach the
farther corner or the corner will be broken off. Plane only part way
across the end, stopping the cutting edge half an inch or more from the
far edge. Fig. 66. After a few strokes in this direction, reverse the
position and plane in the opposite direction, stopping the cutting edge
half an inch or more of the first edge.
Keep testing the end as the planing proceeds that you may know what you
are doing. Remove no more material than is necessary to square the end,
and lay on the rule occasionally that you may not endanger the correct
length in your efforts to square this end.
=32. Finishing the Second End.=--Knife lines squared entirely around
the piece, at a given distance from the end first squared, limit the
amount of the planing that can be done on this end. If the waste stock
is over one-eighth of an inch the saw should be used to remove all but
a thirty-second of an inch before beginning to plane. Watch the lines.
If you are uncertain as to their accuracy, test this end as you did the
first one.
=33. End Planing with the Shooting Board.=--Fig. 67 illustrates a way
in which the ends of narrow pieces may be easily squared. The plane is
pressed to the shooting board with the right hand. The left hand holds
the piece against the stop and to the plane.
[Illustration: FIG. 67.]
The face edge of the piece should be held against the stop; the wood
must not be allowed to project beyond the stop. If it does, the
corners, being unsupported, will be broken away as in free planing when
the cutting edge is accidentally shoved entirely across the piece.
[Illustration: FIG. 68.]
The bench hook makes an admirable shooting board. Fig. 68.
=34. Rules for Planing to Dimensions.=
1. True and smooth a broad surface; put on a face mark. This becomes
the face side.
2. Joint (straighten and square) one edge from the face side; put on a
face mark. This becomes the face edge.
3. Gage to required width from the face edge, and joint to the gage
line.
4. Gage to required thickness on both edges from the face side; plane
to the gage lines.
5. Square one end from the face side and face edge.
6. Lay off with knife and square the required length from the squared
end; saw to the knife line.
[Illustration: FIG. 69.]
[Illustration: FIG. 70.]
[Illustration: FIG. 71.]
=35. Planing a Chamfer.=--Fig. 69 illustrates a good way to lay out a
chamfer. A notch in the back end of the gage-stick holds the pencil
in position. Holding pencil in this way draw lines on face and edge
indicating width of the chamfer. Fig. 70 illustrates the manner of
block planing a chamfer, the piece being held on the benchhook. Where
the piece can be placed in the vise, Fig. 71 illustrates the method
of planing a chamfer with one of the larger planes. First, plane
the chamfers which are parallel to the grain; then the ends. If the
plane-iron is sharp and set shallow, it can be run entirely across
without danger of splitting the corners.
[Illustration: FIG. 72.]
Hold the plane parallel to the edge in planing with the grain. Swing it
to an angle of about forty-five degrees in end chamfering, but move it
parallel with the edge, and not with the length of the plane.
The eye will detect inaccuracies in planing. If further test is
desired, Fig. 72 illustrates one.