_Mode_.--Beat the eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar and warmed

butter; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the grated rind

and strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish with

puff-paste; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 40

minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted sugar,

and serve.

_Time_.--40 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

II.

1296. INGREDIENTS.--10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of

butter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of

brandy.

_Mode_.--Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, and

pour these hot over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and very

finely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, and stir these in with the

brandy to the other ingredients; put a paste round the dish, and bake

for 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: LEMON.]

LEMON.--The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice of this

fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing

beverages--lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cooling,

and soon quenches the thirst. It may he freely partaken by

bilious and sanguine temperaments; but persons with irritable

stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid qualities. The

fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and, when dried and

grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culinary

preparations. Lemons appear in company with the orange in most

orange-growing countries. They were only known to the Romans at

a very late period, and, at first, were used only to keep the

moths from their garments: their acidity was unpleasant to them.

In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than

as an excellent counter-poison.

III.

(_Very rich_.)

1297. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. of

loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds,

1/2 lb. of butter, melted.

_Mode_.--Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks of eggs

and the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound the

almonds, and put these, with the grated rind and strained juice of the

lemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well together; line a dish

with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED LEMON PUDDING.

1298. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2

small lemons, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk.

_Mode_.--Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together,

adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and the

juice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed,

moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the

consistency of thick batter; put it into a well-buttered mould, and boil

for 3-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve with

wine sauce, or not, at pleasure.

_Time_.--3-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good. It

will take about 2 hours.

PLAIN LEMON PUDDING.

1299. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or dripping, the

juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar.

_Mode_.--Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth

paste, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Squeeze the

lemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as much

moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste; spread this

mixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the pudding

in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours.

_Time_.--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold).

1300. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip of

lemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, jam, 3

tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milk

for 1/2 hour; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and boil it for 2

or 3 minutes; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, the butter,

sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together; cover a

pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer of any

kind of jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and bake the

pudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkled

over.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

SWEET MACARONI PUDDING.

1301. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of

1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of

brandy.

_Mode_.--Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan with

the lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender;

then put it into a pie-dish without the peel; mix the other pint of milk

with the eggs; stir these well together, adding the sugar and brandy,

and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg over the

top, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. To make this pudding look

nice, a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish, and, for

variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni:

in this case omit the brandy.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to simmer the macaroni; 1/2 hour to bake the pudding.

_Average cost_, 11d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

MACARONI is composed of wheaten flour, flavoured with other

articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, by a

peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, in order that

it may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter

than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill) is

called _vermicelli_; and when smaller still, _fidelini_. The

finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea

wheat. Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts

of Italy, particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured,

and from whence, also, it is exported in considerable

quantities. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are

frequently used in soups.

[Illustration: MACARONI.]

MANNA KROUP PUDDING.

1302. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds,

1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with the

manna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steep

for about 1/4 hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beaten

eggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, and

bake for 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA, are three names given to a

flour made from ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white

when it is made only of these materials; the yellow colour which

it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of

eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful

for thickening either meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is

light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily digested. The best

preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from

Italy.

MANSFIELD PUDDING.

1303. INGREDIENTS.--The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar to

taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2

tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated

nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.--Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling

milk; let it remain covered close for 1/4 hour, then beat it up with a

fork, and sweeten with moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, flour,

currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten with

the eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put it

into a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4

hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.

1304. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered lump sugar, 4

eggs, puff-paste, a layer of any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar, whisk

the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these are well

mixed, line a dish with puff-paste, spread over a layer of any kind of

jam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding for

rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1305. INGREDIENTS.--1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls of

marmalade, 1/4 lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk.

_Mode_.--Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain

covered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins,

sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into a

buttered mould, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with custard sauce.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_. 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c.

(_German Recipe_.)

1306. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2

penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced

parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk the

eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well

stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in

boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remaining

ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much

disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these

into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or 1/2

hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as in

Germany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in this

country. They are very good.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BAKED OB BOILED MARROW PUDDING.

1307. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz.

of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each;

sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.--Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs, and

let these remain covered for about 1/2 hour; shred the marrow, beat up

the eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs; add the remaining

ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a buttered

mould and boil it for 2-1/2 hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged with

puff-paste, and bake for rather more than 3/4 hour. Before sending it to

table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of the

mould or basin.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil, 3/4 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MILITARY PUDDINGS.

1308. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of

moist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar,

and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir these into the other

ingredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups, and

bake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn them out on the dish, and serve

with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients may be made into small balls,

and boiled for about 1/2 hour; they should then be served with the same

sauce as when baked.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. _Seasonable_ at any

time.

MINCEMEAT.

1309. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, 1-1/2 lb. of

lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of citron,

2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 small

nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, 1/2

pint of brandy.

_Mode_.--Stone and _cut_ the raisins once or twice across, but do not

chop them; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and grit,

and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is chopped very

fine; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and pare,

core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon-peel, strain the juice, and

when all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together,

adding the brandy when the other things are well blended; press the

whole into a jar, carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat will be

ready for use in a fortnight.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 8s.

_Seasonable_.--Make this about the beginning of December.

EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT.

1310. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of stoned

raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 1 oz.

of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange-peel, and the

same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of

orange marmalade.

_Mode_.--Grate the rinds of the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strain

it, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp or

chop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which should be

baked, and their skins and cores removed; put in the remaining

ingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix everything very

thoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone jar with a

closely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use.

_Seasonable_.--This should be made the first or second week in December.

MINCE PIES.

1311. INGREDIENTS.--Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309.

[Illustration: MINCE PIES.]

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to

the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and line some good-sized pattypans with

it; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the paste, and cut it off all

round close to the edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven, to

draw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer, should the pies

be very large; brush them over with the white of an egg, beaten with the

blade of a knife to a stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, and put

them into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies on

a white d'oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely sprinkled with

pounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that mode is preferred. To

re-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans, and let them remain in the

oven for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, and they will be almost as good as if

freshly made.

_Time_.--25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them.

_Average cost_, 4d. each.

_Sufficient_--1/2 lb. of paste for 4 pies. _Seasonable_ at Christmas

time.

MONDAY'S PUDDING.

1312. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy, custard

made with 5 eggs to every pint of milk.

_Mode_.--Cut the remains of a _good_ cold plum-pudding into

finger-pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barred

in a mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milk

and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind; fill up the mould

with it; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour.

Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been added

a tablespoonful of brandy.

_Time_.--1 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the pudding, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

NESSELRODE PUDDING. (_A fashionable iced pudding--Carême's Recipe_.)

1313. INGREDIENTS.--40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, flavouring of vanilla,

1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino, 1 oz. of

candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, 1/2 pint of

whipped cream, 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, and

pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few spoonfuls of

syrup. Then rub them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin with

a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and flavoured with

vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture

over a slow fire, stirring it _without ceasing_, and just as it begins

to boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy. When it is cold, put

it into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and make the mixture set;

then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these two

latter should be soaked the day previously in Maraschino and sugar

pounded with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of whipped

cream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little

syrup. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into a

pineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, place it again in the

freezing-pan, covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and let it

remain until required for table; then turn the pudding out, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING.

1314. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias, 6

oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pour

upon them the milk, which should be boiling. Rub the rinds of 2 of the

oranges on sugar, and add this, with the juice of the remainder, to the

other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, and

put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste. Bake

for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted

sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ from November to May.

[Illustration: ORANGE.]

ORANGE (_Citrus Aurantium_).--The principal varieties are the

sweet, or China orange, and the bitter, or Seville orange; the

Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red blood-like pulp.

The orange is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, and

in Devonshire, on walls with a south aspect, it bears an

abundance of fruit. So great is the increase in the demand for

the orange, and so ample the supply, that it promises to rival

the apple in its popularity. The orange-tree is considered young

at the age of a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists

of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and

refreshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen for

the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an essential oil

is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of

roses. Of all marmalades, that made from the Seville orange is

the best. The peel and juice of the orange are much used in

culinary preparations. From oranges are made preserves,

comfitures, jellies, glacés, sherbet, liqueurs, and syrups. The

juice of the orange in a glass _d'eau sucrée_ makes a refreshing

and wholesome drink. From the clarified pulp of the orange the

French make a delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots,

and call _crême_. The rasped peel of the orange is used in

several sweet _entremets_, to which it communicates its perfume.

The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all

parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent

tonics and stomachics. Persons with delicate stomachs should

abstain from oranges at dessert, because their acidity is likely

to derange the digestive organs.

SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS, SUPPER-DISHES, &c.

FANCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS.

1315. INGREDIENTS.--For the custard, 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of

butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouring

to taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Well beat the eggs; stir to them the milk, the butter, which

should be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix these ingredients

well together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring them to

the simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour with essence

of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any flavouring

ingredient that may be preferred. Line some round tartlet-pans with good

puff-paste; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for

about 20 minutes; then take them out of the pans; let them cool, and in

the mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir into

this the pounded sugar, and spread smoothly over the tartlets a little

of this mixture. Put them in the oven again to set the icing, but be

particular that they do not scorch: when the icing looks crisp, they are

done. Arrange them, piled high in the centre, on a white napkin, and

garnish the dish, and in between the tartlets, with strips of bright

jelly, or very firmly-made preserve.

_Time_.--20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 10 or 12 tartlets.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and a

spoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard

instead: this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish.

ALMOND FLOWERS.

1316. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205; to every 1/2 lb. of paste allow

3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg.

_Mode_.--Roll the paste out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with a

round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required. Work

the paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp out

some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces over with

the white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch

and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into the

paste closely round the rings; and when they are all completed, sift

over some pounded sugar, and bake for about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes.

Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in the

centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam; pile them high on

the dish, and serve.

_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes.

_Sufficient_.--18 or 20 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

FLUTED ROLLS.

1317. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar, jelly

or preserve.

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings answer

very well for little dishes of this sort); roll it out to the thickness

of 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many

round pieces as may be required; brush over the upper side with the

white of an egg; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly together

where it joins; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake for about

1/4 hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them over with the

white of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven; and

when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour, they are done. Place

a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish them high on a

napkin, and serve cold.

_Time_.--1/4 hour before being iced; 5 to 10 minutes after.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste for 2 dishes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PASTRY SANDWICHES.

1318. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg,

sifted sugar.

_Mode_.--Roll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet or

tin, and spread equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that

may be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste; press the

edges together all round; and mark the paste in lines with a knife on

the surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20 minutes to

1/2 hour; and, a short time before being done, take the pastry out of

the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift over pounded

sugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When cold, cut it into

strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. These strips, cut

about 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a plateful of flavoured

whipped cream poured in the middle, make a very pretty dish.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1 hour. _Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste,

1s.

_Sufficient_.--1/2 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PETITES BOUCHEES.

1319. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar,

the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine; rub the sugar on the

lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and the

white of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape that may

be preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c., and spread the above

mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchées in an oven, not too hot, and

serve cold.

_Time_.--1/4 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1/2 lb. of puff-paste. _Seasonable_ at any time.

POLISH TARTLETS.

1320. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 2-1/2-inch

squares; brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold down

the corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste;

slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg,

sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about 1/4 hour. When

they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and fill

it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high

in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve

the tartlets are filled with.

_Time_.--1/4 hour or 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of puff-paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small

pastry, such as the preceding, trimmings of puff-pasty, left from larger

tarts, answer as well as making the paste expressly.

PUITS d'AMOUR, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS.

1321. INGREDIENTS.--Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg, sifted

loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to

the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter,

stamp out as many pieces as may be required; then work the paste up

again, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter,

stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones. Again

stamp out the centre of these smaller rings; brush over the others with

the white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every large

circular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to 20

minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour them; then

fill the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish them high on a

napkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry may be made by

stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, when

baked, with jelly or preserve, that our space will not allow us to give

a separate recipe for each of them; but, as they are all made from one

paste, and only the shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it is not

necessary, and by exercising a little ingenuity, variety may always be

obtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc.,

are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 2 dishes of pastry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PARADISE PUDDING.

1322. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz. of

sugar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of

1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mix

them with the other dry ingredients; beat up the eggs, moisten the

mixture with these, and beat it well; stir in the brandy, and put the

pudding into a buttered mould; tie it down with a cloth, boil for 1-1/2

hour, and serve with sweet sauce.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

PEASE PUDDING.

1323. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,

pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float off

any that are wormeaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a clean

cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boil

in cold rain-water, allowing 2-1/2 hours after the water has simmered

up. When the peas are tender, take them up and drain; rub them through a

colander with a wooden spoon; add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt;

beat all well together for a few minutes, until the ingredients are well

incorporated; then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; boil the pudding

for another hour, turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot. This

pudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork, and is

an exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef.

_Time_.--2-1/2 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour

for the pudding.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING.

1324. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of

raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied

peel.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, currants, stoned

raisins, and candied peel; moisten with the well-beaten eggs, and add

sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thick

batter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good oven from 2-1/4

to 2-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For a

very plain pudding, use only half the quantity of fruit, omit the eggs,

and substitute milk or water for them. The above ingredients make a

large family pudding; for a small one, half the quantity would be found

ample; but it must be baked quite 1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.--Large pudding, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; half the size, 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE.]

RAISIN GRAPE.--All the kinds of raisins have much the same

virtues; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are very

subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and hence, when

eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics. There are many

varieties of grape used for raisins; the fruit of Valencia is

that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst most of the

table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Muscatels. The

finest of all table raisins come from Provence or Italy; the

most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire; they are very

large and very sweet. This sort is rarely eaten by any but the

most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel raisins, which come

to this country packed in small boxes, and nicely preserved in

bunches, are variable in their quality, but mostly of a rich

flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep purple hue.

AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs.

1325. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of

currants, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of

mashed carrot, 1/4 lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1

oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together; have

ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which stir into

the other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon-peel; but put no liquid

in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or, if

put in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding should have room to

swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy-sauce. This pudding is

better for being mixed over-night.

_Time_.--4 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING.

1326. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of muscatel raisins, 1-3/4 lb. of

currants, 1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist sugar, 2

lbs. of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of

mixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz.

of ground cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of pounded bitter almonds, 1/4 pint of

brandy.

_Mode_.--Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash and

dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the

dry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs, which should

be well beaten and strained, to the pudding; stir in the brandy, and,

when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new

pudding-cloth; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly and closely,

boil from 6 to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A few sweet

almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornament

it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds.

For small families this is the most desirable way, as the above will be

found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions.

_Time_.--6 to 8 hours. _Average cost_, 7s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ in winter. _Sufficient_ for 12 or 14 persons.

_Note_.--The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose

(not in bunches): they are then scarcely higher in price than the

ordinary raisins, and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding.

[Illustration: SULTANA GRAPE.]

SULTANA GRAPE.--We have elsewhere stated that the small black

grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when dried, the

common currant of the grocers' shops; the white or yellow grape,

grown in the same places, is somewhat larger than the black

variety, and is that which produces the Sultana raisin. It has

been called Sultana from its delicate qualities and unique

growth: the finest are those of Smyrna. They have not sufficient

flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and

cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing, that is to

say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts of

Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings, or cakes, too, where

the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin should be

used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the _cuisine_ is

that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half Muscatels

and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes.

A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN.

1327. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of

stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk,

2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, 1/2

saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and the

currants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other dry

ingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs to the

pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it mix

properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water,

and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in the

middle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it.

_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 children. _Seasonable_ at Christmas.

RAISINS.--Raisins are grapes, prepared by suffering them to

remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe, and then

drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven. The sun-dried

grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common

way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches

of them together, whilst yet on the vine, and dip them into a

hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of

olives: this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which

they are left on the vine three or four days, separated, on

sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dried in the sun at

leisure, after being cut from the tree.

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING.

(_Very Good_.)

1328. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb.

of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of suet, 8 eggs, 1

wineglassful of brandy.

[Illustration: CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING IN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop them;

wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely; cut the

candied peel into thin slices, and grate down the bread into fine

crumbs. When all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them well

together; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which should be well

beaten, and the brandy; stir well, that everything may be very

thoroughly blended, and _press_ the pudding into a buttered mould; tie

it down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It may

be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same time

allowed for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few days

before they are required for table, when the pudding is taken out of the

pot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath to

catch the water that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten,

plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours;

then turn it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. On

Christmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the

pudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, at

the moment of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to table

encircled in flame.

_Time_.--5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours the day it is

to be served.

_Average cost_, 4s.

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasions

till March.

_Note_.--Five or six of these puddings should be made at one time, as

they will keep good for many weeks, and in cases where unexpected guests

arrive, will be found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warming

through, a quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size are

manufactured for these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J.

Slack, 336, Strand.

BRANDY is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated

from the aqueous part, the colouring matter, &c., by

distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its German

form, _brantuein_, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has

undergone the action of fire; brandies, so called, however, have

been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other

vegetable substances; but they are all inferior to true brandy.

Brandy is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is

the most esteemed. It is procured not only by distilling the

wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the _marc_,

or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured

indifferently from red or white wine, and different wines yield

very different proportions of it, the strongest, of course,

giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a

more acrid taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of

Cognac, a town in the department of Charente, and that brought

from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from being made from

white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when

recently distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably,

to some change in the soluble matter contained in it, it

acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping in

casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of

burnt sugar or other colouring matter. What is called _British

brandy_ is not, in fact, brandy, which is the name, as we have

said, of a spirit distilled from _wine;_ but is a spirit made

chiefly from malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and

various flavouring ingredients, the exact composition being kept

secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country;

real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England

are chiefly from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac.

A POUND PLUM-PUDDING.

1329. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of stoned

raisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1

teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of flour,

1/2 pint of milk.

[Illustration: BAKED PUDDING OR CAKE-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; mix with it the dry ingredients; stir

these well together, and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten

with. Beat up the mixture well, and should the above proportion of milk

not be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency, a little

more should be added. Press the pudding into a mould, tie it in a

floured cloth, and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer, and serve with

brandy-sauce.

_Time_.--5 hours, or longer. _Average cost_, 3s.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.

_Note_.--The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled; it should be

put into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 hours; a smaller

one would take about 1-1/4 hour.

CITRON.--The fruit of the citron-tree (_Citrus medica_) is

acidulous, antiseptic, and antiscorbutic: it excites the

appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been

greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed

with cordials, it is used as an antidote to the _machineel

poison_. The candied peel is prepared in the same manner as

orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in

water until quite soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup

(in the cold), after which it is either dried in a current of

warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120°

Fahrenheit. The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by

reboiling it once or twice during the process. It may be dusted

with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is supposed

to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It

is described by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its

shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose

beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour

gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but

the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries.

PLUM-PUDDING OF FRESH FRUIT.

1330. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1-1/2 pint of Orleans or

any other kind of plum, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the

thickness of about 1/2 inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the

sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch them

together, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put

the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it

out of the basin, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August

to the beginning of October.

[Illustration: PLUM.]

PLUMS.--Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are

agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if

indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause

diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better

abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums are

as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections raised

against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit, which even

the invalid may eat in moderation.

PLUM TART.

1331. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pint of

plums, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

[Illustration: PLUM TART.]

_Mode_.--Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe

No. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upside

down, in the midst of them. Put in the sugar, cover the pie with crust,

ornament the edges, and bake in a good oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. When

puff-crust is preferred to short crust, use that made by recipe No.

1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an egg

beaten to a stiff froth with a knife; sprinkle over a little sifted

sugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August

to the beginning of October.

POTATO PASTY.

1332. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepper

and salt to taste, 1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter,

mashed potatoes.

[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN.]

_Mode_.--Place the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the pan;

season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken,

into small pieces. Put on the perforated plate, with its valve-pipe

screwed on, and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube with

nicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, and finish the surface

of them in any ornamental manner. If carefully baked, the potatoes will

be covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury steam

rising from the meat. Send it to table as it comes from the oven, with a

napkin folded round it.

_Time_.--40 to 60 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

POTATO PUDDING.

1333. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,

1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt,

the juice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Boil sufficient potatoes to make 1/2 lb. when mashed; add to

these the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince the

lemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together. Put

the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2

hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase the quantity

of eggs and butter.

_Time_.--1/2 hour, or rather longer. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TO ICE OR GLAZE PASTRY.

1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat or

raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beat

the former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, take

it out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg, and put

it back in the oven to set the glaze.

1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts

and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with

the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly

baked, brush it over with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it

back into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few minutes, it will be

done. Great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burn

in the oven, which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on.

_Sufficient_--Allow 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.

[Illustration: SUGAR CANES.]

SUGAR has been happily called "the honey of reeds." The

sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies.

The Chinese have cultivated it for 2,000 years. The Egyptians,

Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it. The Greek

physicians are the first who speak of it. It was not till the

year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of purifying

brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense fortune

by this discovery. Our supplies are now obtained from Barbadoes,

Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally,

and the United States; but the largest supplies come from Cuba.

Sugar is divided into the following classes:--Refined sugar,

white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The

sugarcane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even sometimes

twenty feet. It is propagated from cuttings, requires much

hoeing and weeding, giving employment to thousands upon

thousands of slaves in the slave countries, and attains maturity

in twelve or thirteen months. When ripe, it is cut down close to

the stole, the stems are divided into lengths of about three

feet, which are made up into bundles, and carried to the mill,

to be crushed between rollers. In the process of crushing, the

juice runs down into a reservoir, from which, after a while, it

is drawn through a siphon; that is to say, the clear fluid is

taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes several processes of

drying and refining; the methods varying in different

manufactories. There are some large establishments engaged in

sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of Blackwall and Bethnal

Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German

workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pure

sugar is highly nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the

body; but it is not easy of digestion.

BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.

(_Plain and Economical_.)

1336. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. of

suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in halves;

mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and

moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of

thick batter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for

1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew sifted

sugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable where

there is a family of children. It, of course, can be much improved by

the addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger proportion

of suet: a few eggs would also make the pudding richer.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.

INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR.--Sugar was first known as a drug, and

used by the apothecaries, and with them was a most important

article. At its first appearance, some said it was heating;

others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed

persons to apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these

fancies, and the use of sugar has increased every day, and there

is no household in the civilized world which can do without it.

BOILED RAISIN PUDDING.

(_Plain and Economical_.)

1337. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb.

of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk.

_Mode_.--After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely,

mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredients

are thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to make

it into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into

boiling water, and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted sugar. This

pudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolled

jam-pudding, and will then not require so long boiling;--2-1/2 hours

would then be quite sufficient.

_Time_.--Made round, 4 hours; in a long shape, 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ in winter.

BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING.

1338. INGREDIENTS.--4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist

sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215.

_Mode_.--Make a suet-crust with 3/4 lb. of flour, by recipe No. 1215,

and line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, if

old, string it--that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it into

inch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover with

crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a floured

cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn

it out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar.

_Time_.--2 to 2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ in spring.

RHUBARB TART.

1339. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks of

large rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.

_Mode_.--Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deep

pie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about

1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to say, pare

off the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinks

very much in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover with crust, ornament

the edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour.

If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a

stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it in the

oven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearly

baked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the peel minced,

are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarb

tart.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in spring.

[Illustration: RHUBARB.]

RHUBARB.--This is one of the most useful of all garden

productions that are put into pies and puddings. It was

comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty

years, but it is now cultivated in almost every British garden.

The part used is the footstalks of the leaves, which, peeled and

cut into small pieces, are put into tarts, either mixed with

apples or alone. When quite young, they are much better not

peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out. The

common rhubarb is a native of Asia; the scarlet variety has the

finest flavour. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal drug,

is the root of a very elegant plant (_Rheum palmatum_), coming

to greatest perfection in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all

kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched.

RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME.

1340. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2

pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt (these are

for the crust); 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a

few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspice,

pepper and salt, gravy.

[Illustration: RAISED PIE.]

_Mode_.--Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter,

flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly; butter a

raised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste.

Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird is

intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season

the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then

spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned veal, and

then one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and roll the fowl

over, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, put

in the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal and

ham and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch the

edges together with the paste-pincers, and decorate it with leaves;

brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for 4

hours. In the mean time, make a good strong gravy from the bones, pour

it through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with a

small leaf, and the pie, when cold, will be ready for use. Let it be

remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it is

poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a firm jelly, and not

be the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is suitable for all

kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the size

of the pie intended to be made; but the birds must always be boned.

Truffles, mushrooms, &c., added to this pie, make it much nicer; and, to

enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips

of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mould is generally

called a _timbale_, and has the advantage of being more easily made than

one where the paste is raised by the hands; the crust, besides, being

eatable. (_See_ coloured plate N 1.) _Time_.--Large pie, 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 6s. 6d.

_Seasonable_, with poultry, all the year; with game, from September to

March.

RAISED PIE OF VEAL AND HAM.

1341. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon

or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No.

415, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy.

_Mode_.--To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficult

task, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks. The

process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty of

practice given to the making of raised pies, as by that means only will

success be insured. Make a hot-water paste by recipe No. 1217, and from

the mass raise the pie with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished,

cut out pieces for the top and bottom, and a long piece for the sides;

fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg, and pinch the

edges well together; then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No.

415, put in a layer of veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper,

nutmeg, and allspice, as, let it be remembered, these pies taste very

insipid unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer of

sliced bacon or cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, veal

seasoning, and bacon, and so on until the meat rises to about an inch

above the paste; taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, to

fill all the cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly and

compactly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on the

cover, press the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make a

hole in the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, which

should be stuck on with the white of an egg; then brush it all over with

the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake the pie in an oven with a soaking

heat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run a

sharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the

middle of the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently

baked. Have ready about 1/2 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through a

funnel into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf of

baked paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should it

acquire too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as the

crust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles, and

many other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of these

pies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These pies

are more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent dishes for

cold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is sometimes carefully

removed, leaving the perfect edges, and the top decorated with square

pieces of very bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly pretty

effect.

_Time_.--About 4 hours. _Average cost_, 6s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a very large pie. _Seasonable_ from March to October.

BAKED RICE PUDDING.

I.

1342. INGREDIENTS.--1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2

oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. of currants, 2

tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of sugar, the rind of 1/2

lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it infuse

till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; in the mean time, boil

the rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity of salt, and,

when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, stir to them the

milk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, and

remaining ingredients; add the rice, and mix all well together. Line the

edges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake for

about 3/4 hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel may be added at

pleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are not

obtainable.

RICE, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very

valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food, and, in

years of scarcity, has been found eminently useful in lessening

the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed

that the grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as

dry as possible. The water in which it is dressed should only

simmer, and not boil hard. Very little water should be used, as

the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much;

and if they take up too much at first, it is difficult to get

rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing

it.

II.

(_Plain and Economical; a nice Pudding for Children_.)

1343. INGREDIENTS.--1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist

sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls of

chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour in

the milk, and stir these ingredients well together; then add the butter

cut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above proportion

of finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake the

pudding, in a moderate oven, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. As the rice is not

previously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very slowly

baked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it to be

very thoroughly done.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 2 hours. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.

1344. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for the

rice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; boil it gently

for 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely,

take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter,

or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any of

which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice.

_Time_.--2 hours after the water boils. _Average cost_, 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED RICE PUDDING.

I.

1345. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of new milk, 2 oz. of

butter, 4 eggs, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls of

moist sugar, flavouring to taste.

_Mode_.--Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk,

and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin; stir in the butter, and

let it stand to cool; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice with the

sugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such as nutmeg,

powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter almonds, or

vanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a buttered

basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil

for 1-1/4 hour.

_Time_.--1-1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

VARIETIES OF RICE.--Of the varieties of rice brought to our

market, that from Bengal is chiefly of the species denominated

_cargo_ rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast, but

peculiarly sweet and large-grained; it does not readily separate

from the husk, but it is preferred by the natives to all the

others. _Patua_ rice is more esteemed in Europe, and is of very

superior qualify; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and

is remarkably white. The _Carolina_ rice is considered as the

best, and is likewise the dearest in London.

II.

(_With Dried or Fresh fruit; a nice dish for the Nursery_.)

1346. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruit

that may be preferred, or 1/2 lb. of raisins or currants.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it to

swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil for an

hour, then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up

again tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder of

the time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweet

sauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and a

little cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit.

_Time_.--1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer,

afterwards.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 children. _Seasonable_ at any time.

Note.--This pudding is very good made with apples: they should be pared

cored, and cut into thin slices.

BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.

1347. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of rice, water, salt.

_Mode_.--Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water; then

have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and keep

it boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but not

soft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the fire to dry:

do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a little with two

forks, that it may all be equally dried, and strew over a little salt.

It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself,

or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in the

centre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and then

brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to colour;

but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is

by far the more preferable mode of dressing it. During the process of

boiling, the rice should be attentively watched, that it be not

overdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a mashed and soft

appearance.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice.

_Average cost_, 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a large dish of curry.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RICE, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is called

_paddy_, both in India and America, and it will keep better, and

for a much longer time, in this state, than after the husk has

been removed; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become

dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship, and in the

warehouses. It is sometimes brought to England in the shape of

paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays less duty than

shelled rice.

TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.

(_Soyer's Recipe_.)

1348. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water,

1-1/2 oz. of butter, a little salt.

_Mode_.--Wash the rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts of water

boiling, and throw the rice into it; boil it until three-parts done,

then drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, put

in the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of the

fire until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan to

prevent its sticking. Prepared thus, every grain should be separate and

white. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as a

border.

_Time_.--15 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized curries.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BUTTERED RICE.

1349. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of

butter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan with

the milk; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the milk;

stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when the butter

is thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve. After the milk

is poured off, be particular that the rice does not burn: to prevent

this, do not cease stirring it.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RICE was held in great esteem by the ancients: they considered it as a

very beneficial food for the chest; therefore it was recommended in

cases of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood.

SAVOURY CASSEROLE OF RICE.

Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree).

1350. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth, 2

slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: CASSEROLE OF RICE.]

_Mode_.--A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such a

difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant

and inexpensive entrée, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl may

be served as ragoûts, fricassees, &c., inclosed in the casserole. It

requires great nicety in its preparation, the principal thing to attend

to being the boiling of the rice, as, if this is not sufficiently

cooked, the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, which

would entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or three

waters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham,

and salt; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over a

slow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it is

quite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the back of

a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste. Then

well grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for rice borders), and

turn it upside down for a minute or two, to drain away the fat, should

there be too much; put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it;

place a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice; press

it in equally with the spoon, and let it cool. Then dip the mould into

hot water, turn the casserole carefully on to a dish, mark where the lid

is to be formed on the top, by making an incision with the point of a

knife about an inch from the edge all round, and put it into a _very

hot_ oven. Brush it over with a little clarified butter, and bake about

1/2 hour, or rather longer; then carefully remove the lid, which will be

formed by the incision having been made all round, and remove the bread,

in small pieces, with the point of a penknife, being careful not to

injure the casserole. Fill the centre with the ragoût or fricassee,

which should be made thick; put on the cover, glaze it, place it in the

oven to set the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. The casserole

should not be emptied too much, as it is liable to crack from the weight

of whatever is put in; and in baking it, let the oven be very hot, or

the casserole will probably break.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.

_Sufficient_ for 2 moderate-sized casseroles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets).

1351. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste,

flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs.

_Mode_.--This is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury

casserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt.

Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almonds

to flavour it well; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked,

and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire.

When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs; butter

a mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as in

recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compôte of

any fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and serve.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice, 1/2 to 3/4 hour to bake

the casserole.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte or jam, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 casseroles.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ.

1352. INGREDIENTS.--To every 1/4 lb. of rice allow 1 quart of milk, the

rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of

butter, 6 eggs, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let it

infuse for 1/2 hour, or until the former is well flavoured; then take

out the peel; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained; put it

into the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire. Stir in

the butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add the yolks

of the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be well beaten,

and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould, strew in some fine

bread crumbs, and let them be spread equally over it; then carefully

pour in the rice, and bake the pudding in a _slow_ oven for 1 hour. Turn

it out of the mould, and garnish the dish with preserved cherries, or

any bright-coloured jelly or jam. This pudding would be exceedingly

nice, flavoured with essence of vanilla.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour in a

slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BAKED OR BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING.

1353. INGREDIENTS.--2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground rice,

sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter almonds

or bay-leaf.

_Mode_.--Put 1-1/2 pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of the

above flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with the

other 1/2 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter; strain

the boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture is

tolerably thick; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and when

nearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, which

should be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the pudding

into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into

boiling water, and boil for 1-1/2 hour. For a baked pudding, proceed in

precisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion of

ground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients: an

hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, or

preserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or baked

pudding, and will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ICED RICE PUDDING.

1354. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. of sugar,

the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and let

these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to

break up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much, a

little more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent its

burning, then beat it to a smooth mixture; add the yolks of the eggs,

which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouring

not be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it); put

this rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed in

recipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of the

mould, and pour over the top, and round it, a _compôte_ of oranges, or

any other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the flavouring

in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.; exclusive of the _compôte_, 1s. 4d.

_Seasonable_.--Served all the year round.

MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS.

1355. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh

butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter

almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel.

_Mode_.--Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire,

putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; stir to it the butter and the

other 1/2 pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add the

well-beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of

vanilla, whichever may be preferred; butter well some small cups or

moulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin,

fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn them out

of the cups on to a white d'oyley, and serve with sweet sauce. The

flavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit or

preserve served instead, with these puddings.

_Time_.--40 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1356. INGREDIENTS.--2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4

dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4

teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.--Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into a

stewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir

these ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is ready

for use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very much

improve the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread,

rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

(_German Recipe_.)

1357. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz.

of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little

grated lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice,

sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to a

smooth paste; put the butter and flour into a saucepan; stir them over

the fire until of a pale brown; then add the cherries, the pounded

kernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for 1/4 hour, or

until the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair

sieve; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5

minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled

batter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured over

the pudding.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

LEMON SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

1358. INGREDIENTS.--The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of

flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful

of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; squeeze

out the juice, and strain it; put the butter and flour into a saucepan,

stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the wine, water,

and strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on

the lemon; stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet. When

these ingredients are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, put in the

beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens, when

serve. Do not, on any account, allow it to boil, or it will curdle, and

be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING.

1359. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powdered

sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small

wineglassfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the

former into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, and

stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do _not_ allow it to

_boil_. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire,

to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen

separately, or pour it over the pudding.

_Time_.--Altogether, 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1360. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk,

4 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring; of grated

lemon-rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting the

salt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or

powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter,

the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half a

dozen of them in it for about 1/2 hour; the milk should then be strained

before it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may be

served for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings.

1361. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 10 drops

of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; stir these ingredients well

together, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating the

proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence, the

size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this jug

in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce _one way_ until it

thickens; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle.

Serve in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind of

dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted

for the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring of

the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served.

_Time_.--To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1362. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz.

of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2

pint of sherry or Madeira.

_Mode_.--Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them over

the fire until the former thickens; then add the sugar, salt, and wine,

and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks from the

whites of 4 eggs; beat up the former, and stir them briskly to the

sauce; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of

simmering; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle.

This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings; but should

be served separately, and not poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes to

stir the sauce over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1363. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped

teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; 1 _large_ wineglassful of port or sherry,

or 3/4 of a _small_ glassful of brandy.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting the

salt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion,

and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat or tureen

separately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding. To

convert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a small

wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon.

Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curaçoa substituted for the brandy, make

excellent sauces.

_Time_.--Altogether, 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1364. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of

6 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, a

few pieces of candied citron cut thin.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, and

put them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is best);

add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and keep

stirring until the sauce begins to thicken; then take it off and serve.

If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediately

curdle.

_Time_.--To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must not

boil.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for a large pudding; allow half this quantity for a

moderate-sized one.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE.

[Illustration: OPEN TART.]

[Illustration: OPEN-TART MOULD.]

1365. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving, roll out

the paste to the thickness of 1/2 an inch, and line the pan with it;

prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in a

brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fill

it with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have been

previously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready for

table. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of the

jam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked in the

oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_.--1 tart for 3 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

STRAWBERRY.--The name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from

an ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to

ripen, which is very useful to keep it moist and clean. The strawberry

belongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of these

latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all

comparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely

diffused, being found in most parts of the world, particularly in Europe

and America.

QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS.

1366. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb.

of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind.

_Mode_.--Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it cool before

the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour,

and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of 2;

flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well.

Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from 20

minutes to 1/2 hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve

with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be poured over

them.

_Time_.--20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SAGO PUDDING.

1367. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, the

rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, grated

nutmeg, puff-paste.

_Mode_.--Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by the

side of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured

with the lemon; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, and

simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, and

stir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Line

the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate a

little nutmeg over the top, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked; but then

allow 2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a buttered

basin from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.

SAGO.--Sago is the pith of a species of palm (_Cycas

circinalis_). Its form is that of a small round grain. There are

two sorts of sago,--the white and the yellow; but their

properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is

cooked, becomes transparent and soft, and retains its original

shape. Its alimentary properties are the same as those of

tapioca and arrowroot.

SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

1368. INGREDIENTS.--1 tablespoonful of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pint

of port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste;

when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon.

_Mode_.--Wash the sago in two or three waters; then put it into a

saucepan, with the water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently by the

side of the fire for 10 minutes; then take out the lemon-peel, add the

remaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular to strain

the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial, will be

found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such as

those made of bread, raisins, rice, &c.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING.

1369. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. of

sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them in

it by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour; then strain it, and mix

with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the

fire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in the

eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edges

with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from

40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of

which may be poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SEMOLINA.--After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful

ingredient that can be used for thickening soups, meat or

vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening,

light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant,

the aged, and the invalid. That of a clear yellow colour, well

dried and newly made, is the fittest for use.

TAPIOCA PUDDING.

1370. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. of butter,

1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind, or

bitter almonds.

_Mode_.--Wash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by the

side of the fire for 1/4 hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it

cool a little; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be

well beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, putting

in about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever is

preferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put in

the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding is

boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered basin 1-1/2

hour.

_Time_.--1 hour to bake, 1-1/2 hour to boil.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TAPIOCA.--Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being

easy of digestion. It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed

with milk or water, and butter. It is excellent food for either

the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly

digested without fatigue to the stomach.

TARTLETS.

1371. INGREDIENTS.--Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marmalade that

may be preferred.

[Illustration: DISH OF TARTLETS.]

_Mode_.--Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; butter

some small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off the

superfluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece of

bread into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape), and bake in a

brisk oven for about 10 minutes, or rather longer. When they are done,

and are of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out carefully, and

replace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Dish them high on a

white d'oyley, piled high in the centre, and serve.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, 1d. each. _Sufficient_.--1

lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING.

1372. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. of treacle, 1/2

teaspoonful of grated ginger.

_Mode_.--Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215;

roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and spread the treacle equally

over it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins; close the ends

securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling

water, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, being

economical, and a favourite one with children; it is, of course, only

suitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lard

instead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would be

sufficiently done in from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Time_.--Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MEAT OR SAUSAGE ROLLS.

1373. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat No. 837,

the yolk of 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Make 1 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the

thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10,

or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place

some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the

paste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, and

trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of an

egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about 1/2 hour, or longer

should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, minced

and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls.

_Time_.--1/2 hour, or longer if the rolls are large.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_.--1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls.

_Seasonable_, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April.

SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDINGS.

1374. INGREDIENTS.--3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar and

butter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence of

vanilla.

_Mode_.--Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on one side

of the scales the eggs, and on the other the flour; then the sugar, and

then the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands beat it to a cream;

gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar, and keep stirring and

beating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth. Then

add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and either of the above

flavourings that may be preferred; butter some small cups, rather more

than half-fill them, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/2 hour. Turn

them out, dish them on a napkin, and serve custard or wine-sauce with

them. A pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold, by

cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, and

putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve,

such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste for

these puddings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is

beaten, the better will the puddings be. When served cold, they are

usually called _gâteaux à la Madeleine_.

_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 puddings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat.

1375. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 1/2

saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk or

water.

_Mode_.--Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and mix

it well with the flour; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingredient

may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole into a

smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie the pudding

in a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 2-1/2

to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of the milk

or water, and increase the proportion of suet.

_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours. _Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may be

boiled in a long shape, and then cut into slices a few minutes before

dinner is served: these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a

minute or two, and then browned before the fire. Most children like this

accompaniment to roast meat. Where there is a large family of children,

and the means of keeping them are limited, it is a most economical plan

to serve up the pudding before the meat: as, in this case, the

consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwise

would be.

SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS.

1376. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful

of salt.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste, previously

adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round dumplings;

drop them into boiling water, and boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They may be

served with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case they may be cooked

with the meat, but should be dropped into the water when it is quite

boiling.

_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour.

_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 dumplings. _Seasonable_ at any time.

VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1377. INGREDIENTS.--4 oz. of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of

cream, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stir

in the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable.

Flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds,

or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the edges with puff-paste, put in

the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 3/4 hour.

_Time_.--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d. without cream.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

VERMICELLI.--The finest vermicelli comes from Marseilles, Nimes, and

Montpellier. It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiar

thread-like form. Vermicelli means, little worms.

VICARAGE PUDDING.

1378. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb.

of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 1/2

teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stoned

the raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants; mix well with a

clean knife; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, and

put in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, plunge in

the pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on the dish, and serve

with sifted sugar.

_Time_.--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a winter pudding.

VOL-AU-VENT (an Entree).

1379. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, fricasseed

chickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked and

warmed in thick white sauce.

[Illustration: VOL-AU-VENT.]

_Mode_.--Make from 3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste, by recipe No. 1208,

taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure its

rising properly; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into a

good hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the _vol-au-vent_ will

look very badly. Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1-1/2

inch, and, with a fluted cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape,

either round or oval, and, with the point of a small knife, make a

slight incision in the paste all round the top, about an inch from the

edge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the _vol-au-vent_ into a

good brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it is

put in. Particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven,

for the paste _cannot_ rise without a tolerable degree of heat When of a

nice colour, without being scorched, withdraw it from the oven,

instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the soft

crumb from the centre: in doing this, be careful not to break the edges

of the _vol-au-vent_; but should they look thin in places, stop them

with small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the white of an

egg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragoût

from bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of the dish. Fill

the _vol-au-vent_ with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragoût, or the

remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, and do not

make them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the crust: replace

the lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the crust, brush it

over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly.--See coloured

plate O1.

_Time_.--3/4 hour to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, exclusive of interior, 1s. 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.]

_Note_.--Small _vol-au-vents_ may be made like those shown in the

engraving, and filled with minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be made

of the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped out with a small

fluted cutter.

SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OF PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY OTHER FRESH FRUIT.

1380. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, about 1 pint of

fruit compôte.

_Mode_.--Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1208, taking care to

bake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it look

light. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must be

boiled down until very thick; fill the _vol-au-vent_ with this, and pile

it high in the centre; powder a little sugar over it, and put it back in

the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose: the

_vol-au-vent_ is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruit

that is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants,

cherries, apples, &c.; but care must be taken not to have the syrup too

thin, for fear of its breaking through the crust.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the compôte, 1s. 1d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.

VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM.

1381. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, 1 pint of

freshly-gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped

cream.

_Mode_.--Make a _vol-au-vent_ case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite so

large nor so high as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush the

paste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some pounded

sugar, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove the

interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with the

strawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficient

sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on

the top, and serve.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the _vol-au-vent_.

_Average cost_, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 _vol-au-vent_.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.

STRAWBERRY.--Among the Greeks, the name of the strawberry

indicated its tenuity, this fruit forming hardly a mouthful.

With the Latins, the name reminded one of the delicious perfume

of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied

the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in

the same rank with flowers; and Ovid gives it a tender epithet,

which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither does this

luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears

beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented air

reveals.

WEST-INDIAN PUDDING.

1382. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. of loaf-sugar, 1/2 lb. of

Savoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger.

_Mode_.--Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour over

them the cream, which should be previously sweetened and brought to the

boiling-point; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and when the cream

is soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange the ginger round it,

pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; steam or

boil it slowly for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with the syrup from the ginger,

which should be warmed, and poured over the pudding.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 8d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

YEAST DUMPLINGS.

1383. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 quartern of dough, boiling water.

Mode.--Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk,

instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them into

boiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the instant they are

taken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and becoming heavy; and in

eating them do not touch them with a knife, but tear them apart with two

forks. They may be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter and sugar, and

if not convenient to make the dough at home, a little from the baker's

answers as well, only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire,

in a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise again before it is made

into dumplings.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

YEAST consists principally of a substance very similar in

composition, and in many of its sensible properties, to gluten;

and, when new or fresh, it is inflated and rendered frothy by a

large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this

substance acts upon the saccharine matter; the temperature

rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the result is _ale_,

which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or

spirit. The quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being

small, the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed:

hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and

gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is

remarkable. The fermenting property of yeast is weakened by

boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing

the boiling. Alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert;

on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed

during fermentation.

YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef.

1384. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 _large_ tablespoonfuls of

flour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: YORKSHIRE PUDDING.]

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually to

this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectly

smooth, and all the lumps are well rubbed down, add the remainder of the

milk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat the mixture for a

few minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previously

well rubbed with beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bake

it for an hour; then, for another 1/2 hour, place it under the meat, to

catch a little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into

small square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is

baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former on

a small three-cornered stand.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]