ROAST BLACK-COCK.
1019. INGREDIENTS.--Black-cock, butter, toast.
[Illustration: ROAST BLACK-COCK.]
_Mode_.--Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough and
tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insides
and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut off
the heads, and truss them, the same as a roast fowl, cutting off the
toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Trussing them with the head on,
as shown in the engraving, is still practised by many cooks, but the
former method is now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire,
well baste them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, and
a good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the
breast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. They
should be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments as
with the plainly-roasted birds.
_Time_.--45 to 50 minutes.
_Average cost_, from 5s. to 6s. the brace; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 or 3 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of August to the end of December.
[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK.]
THE BLACK-COCK, HEATH-COCK, MOOR-FOWL, OR HEATH-POULT.--This
bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds, and the hen about
two. It is at present confined to the more northern parts of
Britain, culture and extending population having united in
driving it into more desolate regions, except, perhaps, in a few
of the more wild and less-frequented portions of England. It may
still be found in the New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and
Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among the hills of Somersetshire,
contiguous to the latter. It may also be found in Staffordshire,
in North Wales, and again in the north of England; but nowhere
so plentiful as in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The
males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are
about half-grown, when the black feathers begin to appear, first
about the sides and breast. Their food consists of the tops of
birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at
which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the
bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of
these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in
point of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into
London, where they are vended in the shops; but the flavour of
their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird.
HASHED WILD DUCK.
1020. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good
brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt,
cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or Seville
orange-juice.
_Mode_.--Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them into a
stewpan, with all the above ingredients; let them get gradually hot by
the side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents; when on the
point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted
bread.
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK.
1021. INGREDIENTS.--2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1
glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2
lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day
will answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs,
wings, and breasts until wanted; put the trimmings into a stewpan with
the shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about 1/2 hour, and
strain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in
a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; give it one
boil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay
in the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm through, but do
not allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The gravy should not be
too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville
orange is a great improvement to this dish.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to make the gravy; 1/4 hour for the duck
gradually to warm through.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
ROAST WILD DUCK.
1022. INGREDIENTS.--Wild duck, flour, butter.
[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.]
_Mode_.--Carefully pluck and draw them; Cut off the heads close to the
necks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut off the
feet; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each
side of the breast; others truss them as shown in our Illustration.
Roast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put down,
let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep the gravy
in); afterwards baste plentifully with butter, and a few minutes before
serving dredge them lightly with flour; baste well, and send them to
table nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds will
lose their flavour. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange
gravy, No. 488; and send to table with them a cut lemon. To take off the
fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes
with hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt; then
take away the pan, and baste with butter.--See coloured plate, G1.
_Time_.--When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes; well done, 25 to 35
minutes.
_Average cost_, 4s. to 5s. the couple.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK.]
THE WILD DUCK.--The male of the wild dock is called a mallard;
and the young ones are called flappers. The time to try to find
a brood of these is about the month of July, among the rushes of
the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream,
where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be taken as a certainty
that its brood is not far off. When once found, flappers are
easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their
wings are fledged. Consequently, the sport is more like hunting
water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing,
they assume the name of wild ducks, and about the month of
August repair to the corn-fields, where they remain until they
are disturbed by the harvest-people. They then frequent the
rivers pretty early in the evening, and give excellent sport to
those who have patience to wait for them. In order to know a
wild duck, it is necessary only to look at the claws, which
should be black.
HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery).
1023. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3
cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock.
_Mode_.--Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the best
pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the
onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these for
about an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour;
add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, and
let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow it
to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering,
serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
_Note_.--Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the
flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c.;
but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of game
should really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c.,
are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the
dish should possess.
GROUSE PIE.
1024. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of
rump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste.
_Mode_.--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat
pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, if
small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt,
cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puff
paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4
to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings
will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, a
bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after the
pie is baked.
_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s.
9d.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
ROAST GROUSE.
[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.]
1025. INGREDIENTS.--Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.
_Mode_.--Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them;
wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the
head, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to truss
them with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered the
most approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep them
well basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on a
buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter
poured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy.--See coloured plate,
L1.
_Time_.--1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2s. to 2s. 6d. the brace; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
[Illustration: RED GROUSE.]
GROUSE.--These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse,
red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further
distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as
large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length,
and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is
considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her
feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species
is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very
rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia,
Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In
these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and
the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of
the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or
the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs
only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than
the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of
colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high
situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other
northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of
Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and
fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer,
frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The
red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces,
and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the
northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and
the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to
Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France,
and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse,
white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red
grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports
itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of
the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland.
In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is
also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of
Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and
are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are
easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of
the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but
not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured,
and somewhat flavoured like the hare.
GROUSE SALAD.
(_Soyer's Recipe_.)
1026. INGREDIENTS.--8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar,
the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4
tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill of
cream.
_Mode_.--Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cut
a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in
the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat
border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is
to be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the
yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre a
fresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted the
grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare
the sauce as follows:--Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, the
yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil and
vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice or
in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, which
lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the
salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and
the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve.
The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on
the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed
between, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round.
Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains of
cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner,
and will make a very delicate dish.
_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.]
THE CAPERCALZIE.--This bird was to be met with formerly both in
Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives
separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its
manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except
that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the
tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in
the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found
abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the
Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of
Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it
into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we
should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its
sustenance.
GROUSE.--Under this general term are included several species of
game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The
black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so
common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red,
however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the
mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It
feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst
them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The
woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird
tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller
than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but
it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though
it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the
Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is
extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a
plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands,
and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by
Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being
esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation,
being considered as little different from common grouse.
ROAST HARE.
1027. INGREDIENTS.--Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a young hare; which may be known by its
smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much
spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if
properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to
hang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe
the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger,
to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and
which also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, and
soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it lie
in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in several
waters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill the
belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the
body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between
the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the
ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it
above the back.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
_Mode_.--The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is
first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the
inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards
with butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as
to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost
roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely
frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a little
gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must also
not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast
hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk
and butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated,
must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybe
parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be
used unless quite fresh.--See coloured plate, E1.
_Time_.--A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2
hours.
_Average cost_, from 4s. to 6s.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
THE HARE.--This little animal is found generally distributed over
Europe, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme
timidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as a
means of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and is
supplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear with
great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed so
prominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. It
lives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry,
notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that of
the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Its
general time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if not
disturbed, it adheres closely to its _form_.
[Illustration: THE HARE.]
POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).
1028. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of
savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2
onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.
_Mode_.--Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and put
it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add the
remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender,
and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough,
take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, _with the bacon_, in a
mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not be
sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but
be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Press
the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in a
dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved for
hashes, soups, &c. &c.
_Time_.--About 21/2 hours to stew the hare.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).
1029. INGREDIENTS.--The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and
salt to taste, a little butter.
_Mode_.--Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highly
with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5
minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter,
and send to table very quickly.
_Time_.--5 minutes.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
HASHED HARE.
1030. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of pounded
mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter and
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones,
and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace,
allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and
strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and
ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be
left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when it
has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with
sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
JUGGED HARE.
(_Very Good_.)
1031. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. of butter,
1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pint
of port wine.
_Mode_.--Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge
them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint of
gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a
little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an
onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good
seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, put
it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew until
the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. When
nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made by
recipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few
minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly.
_Time_,--3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours.
_Average cost_, 7s.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
II.
(_A Quicker and more Economical Way_.)
1032. INGREDIENTS.--1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck
with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, a
strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine.
_Mode._--Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large),
and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them into
a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and
lemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove
all the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in
about 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the
pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup
and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a
sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be
added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may be
stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for
table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it.
_Time_.--Altogether 2 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to the end of February.
_Note_.--Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the
hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of
boiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste.
ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.
1033. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.
[Illustration: LANDRAILS.]
_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp
cloths, and truss them in the following manner:--Bring the head round
under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through
them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clear
fire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a
tureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table
with them.
_Time_.--12 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_,--Seldom bought.
_Sufficient_.--Allow--1 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from August 12th to the middle of September.
[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.]
THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.--This bird is migratory in its
habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long
aërial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward
out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely
heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down.
When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it
runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the
swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes
its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that
is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same
places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes
long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until
the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it
constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage,
and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every
direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this
island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in
search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large
numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and,
whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in
the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is
so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before
its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight
ounces, and is then most delicious eating.
TO DRESS A LEVERET.
1034. INGREDIENTS.--2 leverets, butter, flour.
_Mode_.--Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but
they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keep
them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes before
serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Serve
with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly with
them.
_Time_.--1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, in full season, 4s. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from May to August, but cheapest in July and August.
BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish).
1035. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small
piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
_Mode_.--Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the
inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne,
broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a
small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown
gravy or mushroom sauce.
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
PARTRIDGE PIE.
1036. INGREDIENTS.--3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1
teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4
lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste.
_Mode_.--Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice of
ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe the
partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them inside
with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place
them in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dish
with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of an
egg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour.
_Time_.--3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
Note.--Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; they
will then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms
should always be added.
POTTED PARTRIDGE.
1037. INGREDIENTS.--Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice
white pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste.
_Mode_.--Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a damp
cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mix
together, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birds
as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them,
and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, then
cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a large
potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a
cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer for
basting, or for paste for meat pies.--See coloured plate, D1.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.
1038. INGREDIENTS.--3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham,
1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole
peppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump
of sugar.
_Mode_.--After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather
underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cut
them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts;
put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is
ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the
carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into
a stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, add
the bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour.
Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; put
it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and
a small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of the
fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with
croûtons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in
this way, although not so good as when the birds are in the first
instance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for
pheasants, moor-game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the
joints.
_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.
_Sufficient_.--2 or 3 partridges for an entrée.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
ROAST PARTRIDGE.
1039. INGREDIENTS.--Partridge; butter.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose young birds, with dark-coloured bills
and yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be no
flavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should be
kept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended,
as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to others
disgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or without the head,
the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable. Pluck, draw,
and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut off the head,
leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back; bring the legs close
to the breast, between it and the side-bones, and pass a skewer through
the pinions and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on,
it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer.
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE.]
_Mode_.--When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before a
nice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving,
flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce,
and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should be
poured over the bird.--See coloured plate, D1.
_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, is 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
[Illustration: PARTRIDGES.]
THE PARTRIDGE.--This bird is to be found in nearly all the
temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the
Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate,
whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and
is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this
bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the
preservation of its young. "I have seen it often," says a very
celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once
in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's
solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young
pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the
old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before
the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable
distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but
not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the
place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the
old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled
just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling
about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved
her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been
hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up
at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might
to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if
old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by
their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills.
PHEASANT CUTLETS.
1040. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne and
salt to taste, brown gravy.
_Mode_.--Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few days;
pluck, draw, and wipe them inside; cut them into joints; remove the
bones from the best of these; and the backbones, trimmings, &c., put
into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, &c.,
to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape, egg and
bread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire, pile them high in the
dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be
strained, flavoured, and thickened. One of the small bones should be
stuck on the point of each cutlet.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each.
_Sufficient_ for 2 entrées.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
ROAST PHEASANT.
1041. INGREDIENTS.--Pheasant, flour, butter.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Old pheasants may be known by the length and
sharpness of their spurs; in young ones they are short and blunt. The
cock bird is generally reckoned the best, except when the hen is with
egg. They should hang some time before they are dressed, as, if they are
cooked fresh, the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. After the
bird is plucked and drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and truss
it in the same manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as
shown in the engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on to
the point of the skewer.
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
_Mode_.--Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flour
and froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should be
poured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of the
pheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an
ornament; but the fashion is not much to be commended.--See coloured
plate, F1.
_Time_.--1/2 to 1 hour, according to the size.
_Average cost_, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each. _Sufficient_,--1 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
[Illustration: THE PHEASANT.]
THE PHEASANT.--This beautiful bird is said to have been
discovered by the Argonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near
Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is common,
however, in almost all the southern parts of the European
continent, and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most
woody counties of England. It is very common in France; indeed,
so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers. Although
it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor
is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state. Mr.
Ude says--"It is not often that pheasants are met with
possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long
keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept
as long as they are in other countries. The hens, in general,
are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs.
They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from
the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have
been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour,
if you keep it long enough; if not, it is not much different
from that of a common fowl or hen."
BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance.
1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked (_see_ No.
1041), it should be plucked, and not before. The bird should then be
stuffed in the following manner:--Take two snipes, and draw them,
putting the bodies on one plate, and the livers, &c., on another. Take
off the flesh, and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few
truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully
with this. Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably than the bird, and
cover it with the liver, &c., and a few truffles: an anchovy and a
little fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the bread, &c.,
into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on the
preparation, and surround it with Florida oranges.
Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner; for a pheasant served
in this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is a
very good bird; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the
truffle and snipe, it becomes thrice better.
BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).
1043. INGREDIENTS.--1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread crumbs,
salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut the legs off at the first joint, and the remainder of the
bird into neat pieces; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard, and
when browned on both sides, and about half done, take them out and drain
them; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs
with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil
them over a moderate fire for about 10 minutes, or rather longer, and
serve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which a
few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed.
_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.--Things edible have
their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus,
asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young.
Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity:
let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must
except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals
whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until
decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention
particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be
eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then
has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished,
and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper
length of time,--and this can be ascertained by a slight smell
and change of colour,--then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish,
occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and
venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a
pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of
gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when
a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook
knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a
turn or two more.
TO DRESS PLOVERS.
1044. INGREDIENTS.--3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as
that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,--the grey, green, and
bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if
very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for
anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into
a ragoût, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.
_Mode_.--Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a
damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing,
put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the
dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge them
lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be
nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the _trail_ should
be equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and send
some to table in a tureen.
_Time_.--10 minutes to 1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. the brace, if plentiful.
_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In perfection from the beginning of September to the end
of January.
THE PLOVER.--There are two species of this bird, the grey and
the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat
less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those
birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to
seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the
loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be
seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the
winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is
sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very
cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game
flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it
is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey,
but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed
as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They
arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and
summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by
getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire
to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country
abounds.
[Illustration: THE PLOVER.]
TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN.
1045. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender, are
exceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible, to be
good. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as grouse, No.
1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth them nicely,
and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce,
when liked, may be sent to table with them, and fried bread crumbs
substituted for the toasted bread.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from the beginning of February to the end of April.
THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE.--This bird is nearly the same
size as red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, where it
braves the severest weather, and is found in most parts of
Europe, as well as in Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear in
such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently
taken at once in a net. As they are as tame as chickens, this is
done without difficulty. Buffon says that the Ptarmigan avoids
the solar heat, and prefers the frosts of the summits of the
mountains; for, as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains,
it ascends till it gains the top, where it makes a hole, and
burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on
the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a
bitter, but not altogether an unpalatable taste. It is
dark-coloured, and has something of the flavour of the hare, and
is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen.
[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN.]
TO DRESS QUAILS.
1046. INGREDIENTS.--Quails, butter, toast.
_Mode_.--These birds keep good several days, and should be roasted
without drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks, No. 1062;
roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve on
toast.
_Time_.--About 20 minutes. _Average cost_.--Seldom bought.
_Sufficient_ 2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from October to December.
[Illustration: THE QUAIL.]
THE QUAIL.--Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe,
Asia, and Africa. Being birds of passage, they are seen in
immense flocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to
Africa, in the autumn, and returning again in the spring,
frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of
the Archipelago, which, with their vast numbers, they almost
completely cover. On the western coasts of the kingdom of
Naples, they have appeared in such prodigious numbers, that,
within the compass of four or five miles, as many as a hundred
thousand have been taken in a day. "From these circumstances,"
says a writer on natural history, "it appears highly probable
that the quails which supplied the Israelites with food during
their journey through the wilderness, were sent thither, on
their passage to the north, by a wind from the south-west,
sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red
Sea." In England they are not very numerous, although they breed
in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year,
changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country
for the seacoast.
TO DRESS SNIPES.
1047. INGREDIENTS.--Snipes, butter, flour, toast.
_Mode_.--These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn.
Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the head under the
wing, having previously skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at the
first joint, press the feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through
these and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack or
spit, and roast before a clear fire for about 1/4 hour. Put some pieces
of buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour and
froth the birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on
them, and pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. They
should be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be
worth eating.--See coloured plate M1.
[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.]
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. to 2s. the brace.
_Sufficient_,--4 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
_Note_.--Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner.
[Illustration: THE SNIPE.]
THE SNIPE.--This is a migratory bird, and is generally
distributed over Europe. It is found in most parts of England,
in the high as well as the low lands, depending much on the
weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to the hills, but at
other times frequents marshes, where it can penetrate the earth
with its bill, hunting for worms, which form its principal food.
In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and they
are fattest in frosty weather. In the breeding season the snipe
changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter.
The male will keep on wing for an hour together, mounting like a
lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating
sound, not unlike that made by an old goat, it will descend with
great velocity, especially if the female be sitting in her nest,
from which it will not wander far.
ROAST TEAL.
1048. INGREDIENTS.--Teal, butter, a little flour.
_Mode_.--Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they are
generally better flavoured; truss them in the same manner as wild duck,
No. 1022; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well basted.
Serve with brown or orange gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. The
remains of teal make excellent hash.
_Time_.--From 9 to 15 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.
1049. INGREDIENTS.--Venison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a little
flour.
_Mode_.--Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the
cleft of the hoof smooth and close; the greater quantity of fat there
is, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object to
venison when it has too much _haut goût_, ascertain how long it has been
kept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone; when
this is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care and
attention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is very
mild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the
least damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as a
preventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in warm
water, and _dry_ it _well_ with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper,
put it over the fat, lay a coarse paste, about 1/2 inch in thickness,
over this, and then a sheet or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmly
on to the haunch with twine, and put the joint down to a strong close
fire; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and string
from burning, and continue this operation, without intermission, the
whole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is done,
carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour, and
baste well with _butter_ until it is nicely frothed, and of a nice
pale-brown colour; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper,
and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, and
currant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve that
also in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is to
preserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expense
is not objected to; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensed
with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead: it will not
require so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hot
plates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes: to be thoroughly
enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck
and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner.
[Illustration: ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
_Time_.--A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours;
haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without the
paste.
_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 18 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Buck venison in greatest perfection from June to
Michaelmas; doe venison from November to the end of January.
THE DEER.--This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild
and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other
and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use
their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet.
Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst
the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the
kinds, under the name of "venison," is considered very
delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms
by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus
the stag is called, the first year, a _calf_, or _hind-calf_;
the second, a _knobber_; the third, a _brock_; the fourth, a
_staggard_; the fifth, a _stag_; and the sixth, a _hart_. The
female is, the first year, called a _calf_; the second, a
_hearse_; and the third, a _hind_. In Britain, the stag has
become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of
Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen,
ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the
stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal
chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns,
assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer
into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their
chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means
for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of
concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such
assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a
deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described.
VENISON.--This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of
deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of
deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in
several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case
with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large
proportion of his wealth. There--
"The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play,
And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray,
Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,
And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky."
In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the
goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its
skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from
its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes
food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty,
and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is
supposed to have been originally introduced into this country
from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in
some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in
the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks
of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the
not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's
larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later
period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the
"ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common
player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived.
HASHED VENISON.
1050. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of roast venison, its own or mutton
gravy, thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is
sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is
preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and
trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them
stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour and
butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add the
strained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, when
a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by the
side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do not
allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly to
table with it.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from
November to the end of January.
_Note_.--A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may
be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used
very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.
[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE).]
THE FALLOW-DEER.--This is the domestic or park deer; and no two
animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag
and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each
other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or
intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an
intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been
transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where
stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many
things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the
stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one
fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble
the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference
between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is
said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the
fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller
than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner
completed.
STEWED VENISON.
1051. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2
glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak
stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of
whole allspice.
_Mode_.--Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the
meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat,
which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine;
sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up,
and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and
the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black
pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very
gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and
dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with
red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best
mode of cooking it.
_Time_.--3-1/2 to 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 10 or 12 persons.
_Seasonable_.--Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from
November to the end of January.
[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.]
THE ROEBUCK.--This is the _Certuscapreolus_, or common roe, and
is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as
well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and
stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of
about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to
eight inches.
[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.]
THE STAG.--The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and
the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer,
and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead
of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the
first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is
short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next
year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they
have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the
sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for
sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year,
the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they
may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is
then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the
thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their
variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every
year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes
place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new
ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of
the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or
skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short
time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of
tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth
the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion
as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed.
The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until
the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually
shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the
latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are
between five and six years old shed them about the middle or
latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April;
and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of
May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to
variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the
horns.--The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being
hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young,
and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become
a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of
the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon,
are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the
stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has
young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is
transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most
resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before
the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose
life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own.
[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).]
THE NEW VENISON.--The deer population of our splendid English
parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the
fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an
acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came
to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park
in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of
deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and
rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole
world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant,
valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their
availability to gastronomic purposes.
During the last four or live years a few spirited English
noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in
their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it
may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a
course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a
new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of
the choicest character.
A practical solution of this interesting question was made by
Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On
that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the
species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was
killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:--"He
weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with
bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his
paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap,
and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode
majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and
their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of
the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the
picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their
home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with
roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture
of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more
than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen
say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his
flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an
enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true
short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely
superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and
delicate. It was tried in every fashion,--braised brisket,
roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sauté, boiled aitchbone,
&c.,--and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of
surpassing value had been added to the products of the English
park.
When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is
pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian
wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small
Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in
breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first
acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the
years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in
1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of
elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the
animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from
the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly
reproduced, without the loss of a single calf.
ROAST WIDGEON.
1052. INGREDIENTS.--Widgeons, a little flour, butter.
_Mode_.--These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022,
but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a
brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when
browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve
with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon.
_Time_.--1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. each; but seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK.]
ROAST WOODCOCK.
1053. INGREDIENTS.--Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.
_Mode_.--Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures,
considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss
them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the
thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing.
Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails,
allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from
15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them
nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them,
and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen.
These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be
kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit
for table.--See coloured plate, I 1.
_Time_.---When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done,
allow an extra 5 minutes.
_Average cost_.--Seldom bought.
_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.
_Seasonable_ from November to February.
[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.]
THE WOODCOCK.--This bird being migratory in its habits, has,
consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as
the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It
breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its
appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with
that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the
coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been
accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its
appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it
appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most
gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave
of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern
and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy
in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few
weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with
such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found
as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season,
in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the
partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far
south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they
can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other
side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the
countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains
of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of
the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is
eagerly sought after by the sportsman.
GAME CARVING.
BLACKCOCK.
[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.]
1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the
guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of
such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears
to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes,
than larger and more robust _pièces de résistance_. As described at
recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head
on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the
head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve
it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and
deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted
line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and
the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and
following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000,
reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most
honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird.
WILD DUCK.
[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]
1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a
dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes
are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of
each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of
wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and
slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from
1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the
knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described
for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.
ROAST HARE.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary
dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and
grace had an opportunity of display. _Diners à la Russe_ may possibly,
erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which
was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the
youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see
the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for
all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not
the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare,
having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first
served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the
direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed
of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line
indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by
passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be
divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2,
taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the
back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any
bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs
and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where
men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare,
especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving
is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered
in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should
accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry,
will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also
served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the
brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.
PARTRIDGES.
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]
1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird.
The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the
top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus
dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same
manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into
three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from
the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making
2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most
elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and
then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to
2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce
should be served to each guest.
GROUSE.
[Illustration]
1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving
partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and
this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured.
PHEASANT.
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it
in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces.
If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then
let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in
carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the
neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the
same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those
which are most considered in a fowl.
SNIPE.
[Illustration: SNIPE.]
1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a
gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite
through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and
like portions, and put only one half on the plate.
HAUNCH OF VENISON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise
his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is
but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made
completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the
gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick,
should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that
end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that
he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some
epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to
others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut
above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest
with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best
carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses
much of its charm.
WOODCOCK.
[Illustration: WOODCOCK.]
1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly
into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in
carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of
a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This
bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection
with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings
whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany
each plate.
LANDRAIL.
1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its
being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.--See No. 1060.
PTARMIGAN.
1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same
manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in
Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.
QUAILS.
1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly
carved.--See No. 1062.
PLOVERS.
1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and
served in the same way as those birds.--See No. 1055.
TEAL.
1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be
treated, in carving, in the same style.
WIDGEON.
1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to
Wild Duck, at No. 1055.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]