BLACK SPANISH.--The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its
uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its
peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and
wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a
very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently,
their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be
hatched. "In purchasing Spanish," says an authority, "blue legs,
the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage,
and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which
should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should
be insisted on." The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from
the smallness of its body when compared with that of the
Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table.
Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their
handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb,
face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept
fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any
other variety.
FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish).
963. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of
stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1/4
oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of
cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2
hard-boiled eggs.
_Mode_.--Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a
frying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the
rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a
stewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly
in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the
fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice,
which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions into
slices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a
nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled,
and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a
dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and
the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Before
taking the rice out, remove the spices.
_Time_.--1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it.
_Average cost_, 4s. 3d. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: SULTANS.]
THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.--This fowl is the size
of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to
England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized,
compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing
tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot.
Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their
wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In
January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople;
and they take their name from _sarai_, the Turkish word for
sultan's palace, and _ta-ook_, the Turkish for fowl. They are
thus called the "fowls of the sultan," a name which has the
twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by
which they have been known in their own country, and of
designating the country whence they come. Their habits are
described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not
so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers;
but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large
and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run
long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon
satisfy themselves and walk away.
POULET AUX CRESSONS.
964. INGREDIENTS.--A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy.
_Mode_.--Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that it
is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick them
nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over a
little salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these the
fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in a
tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted.
_Time_.--From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.
_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ROAST FOWL, Stuffed.
965. INGREDIENTS.--A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour.
_Mode_.--Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, made
by recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl,
dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it for
nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers,
and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce.
_Time_.--Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour.
_Average cost_, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but scarce in early spring.
_Note_.--Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this is
now a very general mode of serving fowl.
[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.]
PENCILLED HAMBURG.--This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two
colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The
hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with
several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be
perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the
pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver
birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes
graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely
well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day
layers. They are also known in different parts of the country,
as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and,
in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls.
They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred
in this country are greatly superior in size.
GIBLET PIE.
966. INGREDIENTS.--A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak,
1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savoury
herbs, plain crust.
_Mode_.--Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, whole
pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint of
water, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let them
cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few
pieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of
steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which should
be strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust,
and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a piece
of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
THE BRENT GOOSE.--This is the smallest and most numerous species
of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its
appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts
and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby
states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to
the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the
mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which
are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast
appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time
immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware
geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine
vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable.
HASHED GOOSE.
967. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferior
joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice and
fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to the
trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew these
gently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it with
flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion;
add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; let
these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, and
serve with sippets of toasted bread.
_Time_.--Altogether, rather more than 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
THE WILD GOOSE.--This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag"
and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to
Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young,
and familiarize. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is known to
Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia
Minor." It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance,
and by the Romans was cherished accordingly.
ROAST GOOSE.
968. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of
bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump
breast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old.
Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, the
flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully
wash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the
skin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, and
separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat with
a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, and
having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each,
and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into the
small of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through,
and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and
make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump,
in order to keep in the seasoning.
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
_Mode_.--Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by
recipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly
at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, and
the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this means
the seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it well
basted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Remove
the skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-made
apple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the
onions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, the
mild seasoning is far superior. A ragoût, or pie, should be made of the
giblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve
the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled by
coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint to
carve, a _large_ quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose,
but sent in a tureen.
_Time_.--A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2
hour.
_Seasonable_ from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmas
to Christmas.
_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.
_Note_.--A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few
grains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured
into the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many
persons, considered an improvement.
[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.]
THE GOOSE.--This bird is pretty generally distributed over the
face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland,
Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in
England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a
native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of
Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks
are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They
thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large
herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by
the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr.
Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the
minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it
is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose
is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its
full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is
insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between
both; from the second week in June to the first in September."
It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen
Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her
majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English
baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the
Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded
the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas.
We here give an engraving of the Emden goose.
TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE.
969. INGREDIENTS.--Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Geese are called green till they are about four months old, and
should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same as
in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and
salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for
about 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy,
and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished with
water-cresses.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.
[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE.]
THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.--Especial attention has been directed to
this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the
ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern
travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese
stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk
of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed.
Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is
represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the
resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also said to
have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by
Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of
half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain,
but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the
southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa.
The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a
well-known bird.
ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded.
970. INGREDIENTS.--A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.
_Mode_.--When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a
pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and
trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted,
and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let
it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of
the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce.
_Time_.--Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Note_.--The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper,
and removed about 10 minutes before serving.
[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.]
THE GUINEA-FOWL.--The bird takes its name from Guinea, in
Africa, where it is found--wild, and in great abundance. It is
gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three
hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching
upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as
that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though
domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to
wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In
their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl,
but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it
frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both
savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out
of season.
LARK PIE (an Entree).
971. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9
larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful
of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stock
or water, puff-paste.
_Mode_.--Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley,
and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; roll
the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a
few slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and season
with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the above
proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake for
an hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it
2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. a dozen.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.
ROAST LARKS.
972. INGREDIENTS.--Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter.
_Mode_.--These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, and
may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when they
are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with
bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continually
with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the
birds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified
butter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are
also very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and would
take about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour.
_Time_.--1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil.
_Seasonable_.--In full season in November.
_Note_.--Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them with
egg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs.
BROILED PIGEONS.
973. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefully
pluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over with
butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderate
fire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either
mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, and
served with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled
fowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil.
_Time_.--To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one,
the same time.
_Average cost_, from 6d. to 9d. each.
_Seasonable_ from April to September, but in the greatest perfection
from midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE POUTER PIGEON.--This is a very favourite pigeon, and,
without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail
strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated
crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized
turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a
ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white
trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat;
his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy
protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little
"swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The
most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an
intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a
prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate,
if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than
any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if
you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its
home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to
induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves
comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse
than intrust them with the care of their own eggs.
ROAST PIGEONS.
974. INGREDIENTS.--Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Trussing_.--Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a
little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as
killed. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and
cut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they should
be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing.
[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON.]
_Mode_.--Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and
salt, and put about 3/4 oz. of butter into the body of each: this makes
them moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well the
whole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20
to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of
parsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl,
are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce.
_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each.
_Seasonable_ from April to September; but in the greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE PIGEON--The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the
passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over
the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic
regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at
intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like
quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence
all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the
wild state it is still found in many parts of this island,
making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees,
or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The
blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the
table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in
great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they
are most preferable for the table, and are called _squabs_;
under six months they are denominated _squeakers_, and at six
months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury,
delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are
considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are
esteemed to have the more delicate flesh.
THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.--The first thing to be done
towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for
their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons
themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will
necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which
must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of
pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is
indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but
the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the
destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is
the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables,
brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep
pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor.
The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but
in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin
getting at the pigeons.
ASPECT OF THE PIGEON-HOUSE.--The front of the pigeon-house
should have a southwest aspect, and, if a room be selected for
the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the
building for the passage of the pigeons, but which can be closed
at convenience. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for
the pigeons to perch upon, with some kind of defence against
strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot.
Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they
are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice,
which will not only suck the eggs, but destroy the birds. The
platform should be painted white, and renewed as the paint wears
off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most
conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house. The
boxes ought also to be similarly painted, and renewed when
necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very well.
THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.--As cleanliness in human
habitations is of the first importance, so is it in the
pigeon-house. There the want of it will soon render the place a
nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and
old, will be so covered with vermin and filth, that they will
neither enjoy health nor comforts, whilst early mortality
amongst them will be almost certain. In some cases, the
pigeon-house is cleaned daily; but it should always be done, at
any rate, once a week, and the floor covered with sifted gravel,
frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of water, and
having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon
the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and
then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the
refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore,
they should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed.
This serves them for a bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists
them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.
BREEDING PIGEONS.--In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match
a cock and hen, and shut them up together, or place them near to
each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little
doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the
purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen
pigeon; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is
generally so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The
pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself
to one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the
fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial. At the age of
six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then begin
to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the
well-known tone of voice in the cock, just then acquired and
commencing, are indications of their approaching union.
Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed squabs, and
are, at that age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house
pigeon is said to breed monthly, when well supplied with food.
At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost any
healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine
times in the year; whence it may readily be conceived how vast
are the numbers that may be raised.
[Illustration: CARRIER PIGEONS.]
THE CARRIER PIGEON.--Without doubt the carrier is entitled to
rank first in the pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps, of
the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl can be traced to so
remote an antiquity. When Greece was in its glory, carrier
pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the
victors at the Olympian games. During the holy war, when Acre
was besieged by King Richard, Saladin habitually corresponded
with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons. A shaft from an
English crossbow, however, happened to bring one of those
feathered messengers to the ground, and the stratagem was
discovered, the design of the Saracens revealed, and so turned
against the designers, that Acre was in the hands of the
Christians before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing.
PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Recipe).
975. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of
ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust.
_Mode_.--Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with it
line the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and salt.
Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and put
into the body of each rather more than 1/2 oz. of butter; lay them on
the steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs,
and half fill the dish with stock; place a border of puff paste round
the edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament it in any way that
may be preferred. Clean three of the feet, and place them in a hole made
in the crust at the top: this shows what kind of pie it is. Glaze the
crust,--that is to say, brush it over with the yolk of an egg,--and bake
it in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/4 hour. When liked, a seasoning
of pounded mace may be added.
_Time_.--1-1/4 hour, or rather less. _Average cost_, 5s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS.]
TUMBLER PIGEONS.--The smaller the size of this variety, the
greater its value. The head should be round and smooth, the neck
thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit. Highly-bred
birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight
beyond that of any other pigeons; and it is in seeing these
little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the
fanciers take such delight. For four or five hours tumblers have
been known to keep on the wing; and it is when they are almost
lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those
pantomimic feats which give them their name, and which are
marked by a tumbling over-and-over process, which suggests the
idea of their having suddenly become giddy, been deprived of
their self-control, or overtaken by some calamity. This
acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some
to the absence of a proper power in the tail; but is nothing
more than a natural habit, for which no adequate reason can be
assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most
beautiful; and the greater the variation of the colour in the
flight and tail, the greater their value.
[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS.]
THE RUNT PIGEON.--This is generally esteemed among the largest
of the pigeon varieties, and being possessed of proportionate
strength, with a strong propensity to exercise it, they keep the
dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering
over the weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well, however, and
are valuable for the table. There is both the Leghorn and the
Spanish Runt, variously plumaged; but when red, white, or black
mottled, are most highly esteemed. One of the great advantages
connected with the Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away
from home. Being heavy birds, they find it difficult, when well
fed, to mount even to a low housetop. Again, they require no
loft, or special dwelling-place, but, if properly tended, will
be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well, in a rabbit-hutch as
any where. Their flavour is very good; and it is not an uncommon
thing for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in
weight.
[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS.]
THE NUN PIGEON.--The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this
variety, which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising
from the back of the head, and which, on the whole, is an
extremely pretty little bird. According to the colour of the
head, it is called the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a
perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; and the
larger the tuft at the back of his head, the handsomer the bird
is esteemed, and proportionately valuable in the eyes of
pigeon-fanciers.
[Illustration: TRUMPETER PIGEONS.]
THE TRUMPETER PIGEON.--From the circumstance of this bird
imitating the sound of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other
pigeons, it has received its designation. It is of the middle
size, having its legs and feet covered with feathers, and its
plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white. It has a tuft
springing from the root of its beak, and the larger this topknot
is, the higher the estimation in which the breed is held. In
their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others; and
whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of
themselves, we cannot say; but they are rather select in the
choice of their company. If two of them are put in a
pigeon-house with other doves, it will be found that they
confine their association almost entirely to each other. As much
as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of
this kind.
[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON.]
THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON.--Buffon enumerates upwards of thirty
varieties of the pigeon, which he derives from one root,--viz.
the stockdove, or common wild pigeon. All the varieties of
colour and form which we witness, he attributes to human
contrivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there exist essentially
specific differences in these birds, which would appear to be
attributable rather to the nature of the region, soil, and
climate to which they are indigenous, than to the art and
ingenuity of man. The stockdove, in its wild state, is still
found in some parts of Britain, forming its nest in the holes of
rocks, old towers, and in the hollows of trees; it never,
however, like the ringdove, nestles in the branches. Multitudes
of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, coming
from their more northerly retreats, making their appearance
about November, and retiring again in the spring. When forests
of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country,
these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a
mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to
feed.
STEWED PIGEONS.
976. INGREDIENTS.--6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover the
pigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.
_Mode_.--Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers, add
to these the parsley and butter, and put it into the insides of the
birds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan,
with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them; add the stock,
and stew gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish the pigeons, strain
the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port
wine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. to 9d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from April to September.
[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS.]
THE FANTAIL PIGEON.--This curious variety is inferior in point
of size to most of the other varieties, and is characterized by
having a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked legs and
feet. It has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a
turkey-cock; during which action, especially when paying court
to it's mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock when
moving about with his train expanded and in full display. This
power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the
male bird alone: the female possesses the same power to an equal
extent, and otherwise resembles the male in every respect. It is
not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or
pigeon-house as most of the other kinds.
[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS.]
THE JACOBIN PIGEON.--This variety, having the power to transmit
to posterity a form precisely similar, with all its peculiar
characters undiminished, is, among pigeon-fanciers, designated
as of a pure or permanent race. It is distinguished by a
remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing
behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast, forms a
kind of hood, not unlike that worn by a monk. From this
circumstance, it has obtained its Gallic name of _nonnain
capuchin_. In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic
pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It is a very
productive species, and, having its flight considerably impeded
by the size and form of its hooded frill, keeps much at home,
and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where
pigeons are confined.
[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS.]
THE TURBIT PIGEON.--This variety bears a strong resemblance to
the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of its
neck, occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and
standing straight out. The species is classed in accordance with
the colour of the shoulders, similarly as the Nuns are by the
colour of their heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a
full frill, short bill, and small round head. In Germany it is
called the ruffle pigeon, in allusion to the feathers on its
breast; and it has rarely any feathers on its feet. There is a
peculiarity connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers it
in the estimation of fanciers: it seldom rears more than one at
a time, which, therefore, marks it as a bird rather for
amusement than profit.
[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS.]
THE BARB PIGEON.--The name of this variety is a contraction of
Barbary, from which country it originally comes. It is both
prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind most
esteemed is that of one uniform colour, that of blue-black being
preferable to any other. Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed
the most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike the Carrier
pigeon, and, at a small distance, might easily be mistaken for
the latter. It has a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy,
pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic, however,
and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years
old. This peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young
birds.
[Illustration: BLUE ROCK-PIGEON.]
THE ROCK PIGEON.--This variety, in its wild state, is found upon
the rocky parts of the west of Scotland, and the bold shores of
the Western Isles, more abundant than in any other parts of the
British islands. As the shores of the mainland are exposed to
the muds of the Atlantic, and the comparatively small islands
are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds exposed to the
west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time, and
thus the birds easily find a supply of food. The numbers which
there congregate are often very great, and the din of their
united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming. The love of
home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in
the rock-pigeon or _biset_, as it is called by the French.
Flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the
feeding-grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes
round, each one keeps to its own party.
[Illustration: OWL PIGEONS.]
THE OWL PIGEON.--This pigeon does not seem to be so well known
as it formerly was, if we may judge from the fact that few
modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a
remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast, it having been
compared by some to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a
full-blown white rose. In size, it is not quite so large a
pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be preferred in France,
above other varieties, as a bird to rear and kill for the table.
In England it is very far from being common; indeed, we have
applied to several keepers of pigeons, who have fancied
themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird, and
they have been able to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir,
our artist, however, has made his portrait from the life.
BOILED RABBIT.
[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]
977. INGREDIENTS.--Rabbit; water.
_Mode_.--For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, as
that denotes they are young: should these be blunt and rugged, the ears
dry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and skinning it, wash
it well in cold water, and let it soak for about 1/4 hour in warm water,
to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it
there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit
into sufficient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently until
tender, which will be in from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to its size and
age. Dish it, and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liver
sauce, or parsley-and-butter; the former is, however, generally
preferred to any of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce is
preferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very
finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce.
_Time_.--A very young rabbit, 1/2 hour; a large one, 3/4 hour; an old
one, 1 hour or longer.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
THE RABBIT.--Though this animal is an inhabitant of most
temperate climates, it does not reach so far north as the hare.
The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in
large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and
Cambridgeshire. Its flesh is, by some, considered to have a
higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit, although it is
neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes
larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state; but it is
not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made.
CURRIED RABBIT.
978. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stock
No. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1
teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of rice.
_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatly
into joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions,
and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow them to
blacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling; mix the curry
powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock, with
the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather more than 1/2 hour;
squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a dish, with an
edging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is studied, water may be
substituted for the stock; in this case, the meat and onions must be
very nicely browned. A little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewed
with the curry will be found a great improvement.
_Time_.--Altogether 3/4 hour.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
[Illustration: WILD RABBITS.]
THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT.--Warrens, or inclosures, are
frequently made in favourable localities, and some of them are
so large as to comprise 2,000 acres. The common wild rabbit is
of a grey colour, and is esteemed the best for the purposes of
food. Its skin is valuable as an article of commerce, being used
for the making of hats. Another variety of the rabbit, however,
called the "silver-grey," has been lately introduced to this
country, and is still more valuable. Its colour is a black
ground, thickly interspersed with grey hairs; and its powers as
a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be
enormous, especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity
of a rabbit-warren.
FRIED RABBIT.
979. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, flour, dripping, 1 oz. of butter, 1
teaspoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well; make the
dripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice
brown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, and
ketchup; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as quickly
as possible.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
_Note_.--The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled with
bread crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make a
gravy in the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, the
pieces of rabbit.
VARIETIES IN RABBITS.--Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a
furry animal, that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground;
that it has its varieties as well as other animals, and that it
is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its
varieties, the short-legged, with width and substance of loin,
is the most hardy, and fattens the most expeditiously. It has,
besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject to
defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is
a very large species of the hare-colour, having much bone,
length and depth of carcase, large and long ears, with full
eyes, resembling those of the hare: it might readily be taken
for a hybrid or mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its
flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and more savoury than that
of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a good
dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter
and more delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival
the turkey. Rabbits are divided into four kinds, distinguished
as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener,
as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community,
and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell _upon_ the
earth and have "the world at their will," and his fur is the
most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite
resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground, where he usually breeds
in great numbers, and from which he frequently drives away the
hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit, that, tinker
like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat
on his back if he was more settled in his habits, and remained
more at home. The sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so
sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to some extent in
the important branch of hat-making.
RABBIT A LA MINUTE.
980. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls of
minced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint of
water.
_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it into
joints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; add
salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts done;
then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10 minutes: it
will then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed in the same
manner.
_Time_.--Altogether, 35 minutes. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d.
each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
RABBIT PIE.
981. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepper
to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a
few forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff crust.
_Mode_.--Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove the
breastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, forcemeat
balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer with
pepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in about 1/2 pint of
water, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2
hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a piece of paper
over it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at the top, by means
of the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good gravy, which may
be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and 2 or 3
shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
Note.--The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the
forcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked.
FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.--The fruitfulness of this animal has
been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven
times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young
ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a
period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a
single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit,
however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase
in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind;
for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is,
by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly
sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the
Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an
extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the
assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate
them.
RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE.
982. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2
oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2
slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour
and butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts,
till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a
little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream.
Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into
neat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf,
and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give one
boil, and serve.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5
persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
THE RABBIT-HOUSE.--Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a
few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost
every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the
metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to
report, kept from 1,600 to 2,000 breeding does. These large
establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London
receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from
the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house
should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated.
Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to
rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing
from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are
indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither
prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough
draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely
necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold
or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or
windows.
ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT.
983. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper,
sausage-meat.
[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]
_Mode_.--Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, line
the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, and
to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside,
skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints of
the shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure them
by means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it down
to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it
is done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice
brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy and
red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner as
above; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting.
_Time_.--A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
THE HUTCH.--Hutches are generally placed one above another to
the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of
the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room,
the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval
between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual
way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches
upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience
of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for
breeding should have two rooms,--a feeding and a bed-room. Those
are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks,
which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed
smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short
handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for
cleaning these houses.
STEWED RABBIT.
984. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small
teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add
the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient
water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a
few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped.
Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one
boil, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT.]
FANCY RABBITS.--The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing
that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the
animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and,
lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine
rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from
tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they
exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a
fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The
dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is
only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full
growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly
to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and
between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond
the chin.
The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back,
independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common
observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five
and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a
first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good
family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for
a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping
down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is
scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth
more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear
lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind
possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful
the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as
finer ones.
The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the
half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over
the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in
other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and
often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this
kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the
ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the
wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A
great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of
the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a
rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly
horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to
all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be
met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered
as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities.
"The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek,
slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part
of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards
instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy
position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of
the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be
turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them
should remain in front: they should match exactly in their
descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible."
The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a
breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect
does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year,
he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all.
As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder
says:--
"The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour,
and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is,
tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what
colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those
colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming
imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects.
Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by
distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly
smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy
rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or
lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some
resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be
termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black
and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar
manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut.'
"But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without
which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There
should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle;
the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout;
while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark
stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to
meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the
part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is
termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or
collar hanging round the neck."
"Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred
will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on
the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a
rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be
its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty
and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good
deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is
said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched,
rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be
held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to
reach almost to the ground."
STEWED RABBIT, Larded.
985. INGREDIENTS.--1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1
pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper
to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry.
_Mode_.--Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with
Blips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with the
broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently until
the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and
flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and
serve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.]
THE HARE-RABBIT.--There has been lately introduced to French
tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit," partaking of the
nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and
the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and
flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to
perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual
will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a
really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes;
although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its
proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game," as
by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in
England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our
rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope
successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in
introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen.
[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT.]
THE ANGORA RABBIT.--This is one of the handsomest of all
rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a
city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat
and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness
of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long,
waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly
esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the
inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into
England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would
materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character
of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous
district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to
apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their
houses in the rocks."
[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.]
THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.--Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains,
whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here
portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow,
which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet,
perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world.
It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will,
doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few
years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal,
Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification,
mining, and covered roads.
BOILED TURKEY.
986. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, on
account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate size
should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of
cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4
days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluck
the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, wash
it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off the
head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off the
legs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breast
with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing and
the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the opposite
side; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and as
compact as possible.
[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.]
_Mode_.--Put the turkey into sufficient _hot_ water to cover it; let it
come to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attended
to, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but it
should be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for
about 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve with
either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter,
a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon,
tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and when
oyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster
forcemeat.
_Time_.--A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but more expensive at
Christmas, on account of the great demand.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from December to February.
THE TURKEY.--The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to
America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by
the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird
was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the
wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been
controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the
French name of the bird, _dindon_, proves its origin; that the
form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in
America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from
the information which has been gained at considerable trouble,
that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th
century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who
had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France
it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in
France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America,
where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs
which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods:
they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The
turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent
and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10
out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out
of the same number arrive at maturity.
CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).
987. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. of meat
allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassée or hash,
answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or bacon
in the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, well
seasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with the
butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2
pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the butter
must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince.)
When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool,
and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg and
bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces of
parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin.
_Time_.--8 minutes to fry the croquettes.
_Seasonable_ from December to February.
THE WILD TURKEY.--In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious,
going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five
hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they
roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the
dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the
boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain
the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops,
apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they
are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but
run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become
so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four
hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a
horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are
seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the
distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great
numbers.
FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).
988. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a strip
of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg.
_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and put
the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs,
onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy,
and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream and
the yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, take
out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish
the fricassée with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cut
into small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must be
boiled first.
_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from December to February.
THE TURKEY.--This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the
principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks,
Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground,
scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and
grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their
crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one
male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the
seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison
them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in
the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England. According
to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it began
about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas
feasts:--
"Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest;
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer."
The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its
flesh is much esteemed.
THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.--Among themselves, turkeys are
extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually
both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them
keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a
united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight
than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is
in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading
forth her young to collect their food, though so large and
apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight
protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may
appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than
offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her
young.
HASHED TURKEY.
989. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and
salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1
blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve for
the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an
onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and
water in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain the
gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and port
wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is any
stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour of
the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of
toasted bread.
_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.
_Seasonable_ from December to February.
HUNTING TURKEYS.--Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one
of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When
they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally
near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was
plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of
the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they
would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they
would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in
their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time,
continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek
shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue,
till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock
them down one after the other.
ROAST TURKEY.
990. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs and
black legs, in which case they are young; if the spurs are long, and the
legs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long killed, the
eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, the contrary
will be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many persons
considered superior to those of an immense growth, as they are,
generally speaking, much more tender. They should never be dressed the
same day they are killed; but, in cold weather, should hang at least 8
days; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found sufficient.
Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe it
thoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve the liver and gizzard, and be
particular not to break the gall-bag, as no washing will remove the
bitter taste it imparts where it once touches. Wash it _inside_ well,
and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth; the _outside_ merely requires
nicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut off the neck close to the
back, but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over; break the leg-bone
close below the knee, draw out the strings from the thighs, and flatten
the breastbone to make it look plump. Have ready a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417; fill the breast with this, and, if a trussing-needle is
used, sew the neck over to the back; if a needle is not at hand, a
skewer will answer the purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion and
thigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side, and press
the legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones, and
put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Pass a
string across the back of the bird, catch it over the points of the
skewer, tie it in the centre of the back, and be particular that the
turkey is very firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished with
a needle and twine than with skewers.
[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]
_Mode_.--Fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird,
put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance _at first_
(afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of the
time it is cooking. About 1/4 hour before serving, remove the paper,
dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into the
basting-ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When of a
nice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown gravy and
one of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a favourite addition to roast
turkey; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very much to the
flavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat balls should be
placed round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be stuffed with
sausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is, by many
persons, much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish.--See
coloured plate, A1.
_Time_.--Small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs., 2
hours; large turkey, 2-1/2 hours, or longer.
_Average cost_, from 10s. to 12s., but expensive at Christmas, on
account of the great demand.
_Sufficient_.--A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from December to February.
ENGLISH TURKEYS.--These are reared in great numbers in Suffolk,
Norfolk, and several other counties, whence they were wont to be
driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the
improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable
them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them
with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the
end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have
to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge.
There are three varieties of the turkey in this country,--the
black, the white, and the speckled, or copper-coloured. The
black approaches nearest to the original stock, and is esteemed
the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing,
and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age,
however, and is then good for little but stewing.
ROAST TURKEY POULTS.
991. INGREDIENTS.--Turkey poult; butter.
_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose a plump bird, and truss it in the
following manner:--After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, and
singed, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing; turn the legs
at the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as a
woodcock should be trussed, _and do not stuff it_.
_Mode_.--Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at first
place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too much
colour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly with flour,
and baste well; when nicely frothed, send it to table immediately, with
a little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at hand, a few
water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish, or it may be
larded.
_Time_.--About 1 hour. _Average cost_, 7s. to 8s. each.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from June to October.
THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY.--Human ingenuity subjects almost every
material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of
turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one. The
American Indians convert then into an elegant clothing, and, by
twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp
or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, work it like matting.
This fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine
as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of the
tail; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly
constructed into a parasol by the French.
TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT.
(_Miss Acton's Recipe_.)
992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out
with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through
the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the
fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the
lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of the
breastbone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the socket of the
thigh; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take the
end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it
down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife
carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut
round the next bone, keeping; the edge of the knife close to it, until
the whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in the
same manner; then detach the flesh from the back--and breast-bone
sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings;
proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to
pierce the skin of the second joint: it is usual to leave the pinions
unboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when
it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut
away, the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided, and the
breastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the work
progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl, until it
is completely inside out). After the one remaining bone is removed, draw
the wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl right
side outwards.
993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it requires a
very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the logs and
wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of
this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled,
or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned and
forced; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst.
ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL. (_Miss Acton's Recipe_.)
994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the
flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until
the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice
has been gained, it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints before
proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole
of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire:
only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. The
bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by
filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the livers
of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue
freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin
slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which will
give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then be
sewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn inside
the body, and the bird being first flattened on a table, may be covered
with sausage-meat, and the various other ingredients we have named, so
placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightly
rolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a
thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and dressed as
follows:--Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan,
bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size; add
all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two
bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and
any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand; cover the
whole with good veal broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it very
softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool in
the liquor in which it was stewed; and after it is lifted out, boil down
the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off the
fat, and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the
fowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of
being rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent
to table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be
preferred; or it may be left until the following day, and served
garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear and
well-flavoured: the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down,
added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence.
TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES.
995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones,
beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold
this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the recipe
above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any
instructions.
TO DRESS WHEATEARS.
996. INGREDIENTS.--Wheatears; fresh butter.
_Mode_.--After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them
like larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well with
fresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish them on
fried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon.
_Time_.--20 minutes.
_Seasonable_ from July to October.
THE WHEATEAR.--The wheatear is an annual visitor of England: it
arrives about the middle of March and leaves in September. The
females come about a fortnight before the males, and continue to
arrive till the middle of May. They are in season from July to
October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in
the neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of
Sussex. They are taken by means of snares and nets, and numbers
of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants. The larger
ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as
much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant
assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about
Eastbourne, the existence of a species of fly which forms their
favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the
adjacent hills.
[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG.]
997. THE GUINEA-PIG.--This common hutch-companion of the rabbit,
although originally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in
England and other European countries. Were it not that they
suffer cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that
it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring,
their numbers would soon become overwhelming. Rats, however, it
is said, carefully avoid them; and for this reason they are
frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for
their young stock against those troublesome vermin. The lower
tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the
guinea-pig: here, as he runs loose, he will devour the waste
food of his more admired companion. Home naturalists assert that
the guinea-pig will breed at two months old, the litter varying
from four to twelve at a time. It is varied in colour,--white,
fawn, and black, and a mixture of the three colours, forming a
tortoiseshell, which is the more generally admired hue.
Occasionally, the white ones have red eyes, like those of the
ferret and the white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is
decidedly unfit for food; they have been tasted, however, we
presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of
science, or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new
pleasure for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats
from intruding within the rabbit-hutch, they are as useless as
they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind
quarters is denied them; and were it not for this fact, and also
for their difference in colour, the Shaksperean locution, "a rat
without a tail," would designate them very properly.
[Illustration: THE CYGNET.]
998. THE CYGNET.--The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly
much esteemed; but it has "fallen from its high estate," and is
now rarely seen upon the table. We are not sure that it is not
still fattened in Norwich for the corporation of that place.
Persons who have property on the river there, take the young
birds, and send them to some one who is employed by the
corporation, to be fed; and for this trouble he is paid, or was
wont to be paid, about half a guinea a bird. It is as the future
bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly
admired; when it has become old enough to grace the waters, then
it is that all admire her, when she with
"Archèd neck,
Between her white wings mantling,
proudly rows
Her state with oary feet."
POULTRY CARVING.
ROAST DUCK.
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
999. No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as
do game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the
anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly
the proper point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a
carver's powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour of
those in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dish
may eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the
right or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assist
those who are unacquainted with the "gentle art of carving," and also
those who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing the
rules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked Illustrations of
each dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of the
uninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like a
fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side, as
described at No. 1000; but in cases where the duckling is very small, it
will be as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they will not
then form too large a portion for a single serving. After the legs and
wings are disposed of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved in
the same manner as a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced,
as ducklings are tender, and the joints are easily broken by a little
gentle forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is a
large bird, the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose,
that is, by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by
the lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close to
the wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone. If
more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the
breast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as is
described in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked,
that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of a
fowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, the
thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than
in a chicken: this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carver
should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; and
in order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shown
by the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the "apron," and the spoon
inserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, when a
couple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other without
stuffing.) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that "the
wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are severally the best
portions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, in
trussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone
are here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be
when cut off.
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.]
BOILED FOWL.
[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL.]
1000. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry
family to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard occupant,
useless for egg-laying purposes, has, by some unlucky mischance, been
introduced info the kitchen as a "fine young chicken." Skill, however,
and the application of a small amount of strength, combined with a fine
keeping of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. Fixing the
fork firmly in the breast, let the knife be sharply passed along the
line shown from 1 to 2; then cut downwards from that line to fig. 3; and
the wing, it will be found, can be easily withdrawn. The shape of the
wing should be like the accompanying engraving. Let the fork be placed
inside the leg, which should be gently forced away from the body of the
fowl; and the joint, being thus discovered, the carver can readily cut
through it, and the leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, it
should be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut. The
legs and wings on either side having been taken off, the carver should
draw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line 4 to 5: by
this means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought, which,
being lifted up and pressed backward, will immediately come off. The
collar--or neck-bones are the next to consider: these lie on each side
of the merrythought, close under the upper part of the wings; and, in
order to free these from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knife
at their broad end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone,
until the shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off.
There will now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast can
be, without difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the
latter, which will offer little impediment. The side-bones are now to be
taken off; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turned
from the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the top
of the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the end of
the back completely through the bone. If the knife is now turned in the
opposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from the
vertebra. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should be pressed
firmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should be employed
in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork, and thus
the back will be dislocated about its middle. The wings, breast, and
merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl, and are usually
served to the ladies of the company, to whom legs, except as a matter of
paramount necessity, should not be given. Byron gave it as one reason
why he did not like dining with ladies, that they always had the wings
of the fowls, which he himself preferred. We heard a gentleman who, when
he might have had a wing, declare his partiality for a leg, saying that
he had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time, that he had at last
come to like them better than the other more prized parts. If the fowl
is, capon-like, very large, slices maybe carved from its breast in the
same manner as from a turkey's.
ROAST FOWL.
[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.]
1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut up a
fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless, indeed, a
large family party is assembled, and there are a number of "little
mouths" to be filled, or some other such circumstances prevail. A roast
fowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000; viz., by
cutting along the line from. 1 to 2, and then round the leg between it
and the wing. The markings and detached pieces, as shown in the
engravings under the heading of "Boiled Fowl," supersede the necessity
of our lengthily again describing the operation. It may be added, that
the liver, being considered a delicacy, should be divided, and one half
served with each wing. In the case of a fowl being shifted, it will be
proper to give each guest a portion, unless it be not agreeable to some
one of the party.
ROAST GOOSE.
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE.]
1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal of
happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a large
party to serve, and the slices off the breast should not suffice to
satisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites, produced,
may be, by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas and Christmas. The
beginning of the task, however, is not in any way difficult. Evenly-cut
slices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast in
the direction of the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice has been
cut, a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron,
passing it round the line, as indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: here the
stuffing is located, and some of this should be served on each plate,
unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of some
one guest. If the carver manages cleverly, he will be able to cut a very
large number of fine slices off the breast, and the more so if he
commences close down by the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridge
of the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken from the breast being
carved, the wings should be cut off; and the same process as described
in carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this instance, only more
dexterity and greater force will most probably be required: the shape of
the leg, when disengaged from the body of the goose, should be like that
shown in the accompanying engraving. It will be necessary, perhaps, in
taking off the leg, to turn the goose on its side, and then, pressing
down the small end of the leg, the knife should be passed under it from
the top quite down to the joint; the leg being now turned back by the
fork, the knife must cut through the joint, loosening the thigh-bone
from its socket. The merrythought, which in a goose is not so large as
might be expected, is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl--by
passing the knife under it, and pressing it backwards towards the neck.
The neck-bones, of which we give a cut, are freed by the same process as
are those of a fowl; and the same may be said of all the other parts of
this bird. The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed; all parts,
however, are good, and full of juicy flavour.
PIGEON.
[Illustration: PIGEON.]
1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon: the
knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from 1 to
2, entirely through the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal and
similar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a small
wing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving two
guests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on the
breast to send to the third guest.
RABBITS.
[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]
1004. In carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each side of
the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by the dotted
line 3 to 4: thus the rabbit will be in three parts. Now let the back be
divided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from 1 to 2;
then let the leg be taken off, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the
shoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our opinion, is the best
plan to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes which are
preferred by some.
[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]
A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to
be boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, as will be seen by the
cut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, and
the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as
those of the boiled animal.
ROAST TURKEY.
[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]
1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner,
with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmas
dinner without its turkey; and we can hardly imagine an object of
greater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familias
carving, at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity, his own
fat turkey, and carving it well. The only art consists, as in the
carving of a goose, in getting from the breast as many fine slices as
possible; and all must have remarked the very great difference in the
large number of people whom a good carver will find slices for, and the
comparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we have
stated in both the carving of a duck and goose, the carver should
commence cutting slices close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceed
upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone: this is not the usual plan,
but, in practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only part
which is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut
off and eaten at table: they are usually removed to the kitchen, where
they are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seems
to have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table,--we mean
devilled: served in this way, they are especially liked and relished.
A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.
[Illustration]