CHAPTER XIV.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.

678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, without

exception, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary to

his health and comfort; for it not only supplies him with the lightest

and most nutritious of meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udder

yields him milk, cream, and a sound though inferior cheese; while from

its fat he obtains light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere,

blankets, gloves, and hose. Its bones when burnt make an animal

charcoal--ivory black--to polish his boots, and when powdered, a manure

for the cultivation of his wheat; the skin, either split or whole, is

made into a mat for his carriage, a housing for his horse, or a lining

for his hat, and many other useful purposes besides, being extensively

employed in the manufacture of parchment; and finally, when oppressed by

care and sorrow, the harmonious strains that carry such soothing

contentment to the heart, are elicited from the musical strings,

prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep.

679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to maintain an

average stock of 32,000,000, belongs to the class already indicated

under the ox,--the _Mammalia_; to the order of _Rumenantia_, or

cud-chewing animal; to the tribe of _Capridae_, or horned quadrupeds;

and the genus _Ovis_, or the "sheep." The sheep may be either with or

without horns; when present, however, they have always this peculiarity,

that they spring from a triangular base, are spiral in form, and

lateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The fleece of the sheep

is of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly; the wool

always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, and

amount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The generic

peculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the

horns, always larger in the male when present, but absent in the most

cultivated species; having sinuses at the base of all the toes of the

four feet, with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinal

teats to the udder, with a short tail in the wild breed, but of varying

length in the domesticated; have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw, but

in their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum, on

which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds; in the

lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side of

both jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two coats, one

to keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water without

wetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of which

depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock;

the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is in

excess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention

with which the animal is treated.

680. THE GREAT OBJECT OF THE GRAZIER is to procure an animal that will

yield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time; or, in other

words, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine

fleece. All sheep will not do this alike; some, like men, are so

restless and irritable, that no system of feeding, however good, will

develop their frames or make them fat. The system adopted by the breeder

to obtain a valuable animal for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacity

and functions of the digestive organs, and reduce those of the head and

chest, or the mental and respiratory organs. In the first place, the

mind should be tranquillized, and those spaces that can never produce

animal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as in the abdomen,

for those that can. And as nothing militates against the fattening

process so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is to

find a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself,

leaping his wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambols

of his silly companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, and

then seeking a shady nook, indolently and luxuriously chows his cud with

closed eyes and blissful satisfaction, only rising when his delicious

repast is ended, to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat the

pleasing process of laying in more provender, and then returning to his

dreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination. Such animals

are said to have a _lymphatic_ temperament, and are of so kindly a

nature, that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily. The

Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented

animal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits, of the

restless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland counties

would take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while one

day's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would

probably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded

Leicester.

681. THE MORE REMOVED FROM THE NATURE of the animal is the food on which

it lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and the

more complex the chain of digestive organs; for it must be evident to

all, that the same apparatus that converts _flesh_ into _flesh_, is

hardly calculated to transmute _grass_ into flesh. As the process of

digestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple, these organs are

found to be remarkably short, seldom exceeding the length of the

animal's body; while, where digestion is more difficult, from the

unassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant order, the

alimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is _twenty-seven times

the length of the body._ The digestive organ in all ruminant animals

consists of _four stomachs_, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided by

doorways and valves into four compartments, called, in their order of

position, the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When

the sheep nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, he

is, in fact, only preparing the raw material of his meal, in reality

only mowing the pasture, which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly,

passing into the first receptacle, the _paunch_, where it is surrounded

by a quantity of warm saliva, in which the herbage undergoes a process

of maceration or softening, till the animal having filled this

compartment, the contents pass through a valve into the second or

smaller bag,--the _reticulum_, where, having again filled the paunch

with a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular process

of chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he has

collected. By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a small

quantity of this softened food from the _reticulum_, or second bag, is

passed into the mouth, which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep to

grind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp, the operation being

further assisted by a flow of saliva, answering the double purpose of

increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of the

mass. Having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful, it is

swallowed a second time; but instead of returning to the paunch or

reticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity,--the

_omasum_, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, it

glides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch,--the _abomasum_,

an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of

animals, and where the process of digestion, begun and carried on in the

previous three, is here consummated, and the nutrient principle, by

means of the bile, eliminated from the digested aliment. Such is the

process of digestion in sheep and oxen.

682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkable

a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the

Leicestershire sheep; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds in

quality, are, in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal's

nature, not equal to it in that respect, though in both the brain and

chest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs of

digestion. Besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces,

the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in those

parts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called in the

trade "prime joints;" and so far has this been effected, that the

comparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test

of quality in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopence

a pound more for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are the

hind quarters of mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-end

butchers never deal in any other part of the sheep.

683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH in various breeds is a

well-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness; and

that the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the

flavour of the meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation in

which those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of

Bamstead in Sussex. It is also a well-established truth, that the

_larger_ the frame of the animal, the _coarser_ is the meat, and that

_small bones_ are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and the

delicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in determining the

quality of the meat; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre, deeper

in colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than in

the female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion;

but probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they are

reared, has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality and

tenderness of the meat.

684. THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES of sheep inhabiting the different regions of

the earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four,

species: the _Ovis Amman_, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock of

all the rest; the _Ovis Tragelaphus_, the bearded sheep of Africa; the

_Ovis Musmon_, the Musmon of Southern Europe; and the _Ovis Montana_,

the Mouflon of America; though it is believed by many naturalists that

this last is so nearly identical with the Indian Argali as to be

undeserving a separate place. It is still a controversy to which of

these three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication;

the Argali, however, by general belief, has been considered as the most

_probable_ progenitor of the present varieties.

685. THE EFFECTS PRODUCED BY CHANGE OF CLIMATE, accident, and other

causes, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical

alteration as the primitive Argali must have undergone before the

Musmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the _immediate_ progenitor of all our

European breeds, assumed his present appearance. The Argali is about a

fifth larger in size than the ordinary English sheep, and being a native

of a tropical clime, his fleece is of hair instead of wool, and of a

warm reddish brown, approaching to yellow; a thick mane of darker hair,

about seven inches long, commences from two long tufts at the angle of

the jaws, and, running _under_ the throat and neck, descends down the

chest, dividing, at the fore fork, into two parts, one running down the

front of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the character

of the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping inwards,

terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends in a

tuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, the

French have given the species the name of _Mouflon à manchettes_. From

the primitive stock _eleven_ varieties have been reared in this country,

of the domesticated sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possess

some one or more special qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetland

or Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, or

Devonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned, of Norfolk the Ryeland; South-Down;

the Merino; the Old Leicester, and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, have

of late years been epitomized; and, for all useful and practical

purposes, reduced to the following four orders:--

686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT.

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM.]

[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN EWE.]

687. SOUTH-DOWNS.--It appears, as far as our investigation can trace the

fact, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in

England, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the

south-west and south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as the

South-Downs, has been famous for a superior race of sheep; and we find

the Romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester,

where they may be said to terminate, which rose to such estimation, from

the fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth, that the produce was

kept as only worthy to clothe emperors. From this, it may be inferred

that sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract. Though

boasting so remote a reputation, it is comparatively within late years

that the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed has

been effected, the South-Down new ranking, for symmetry of shape,

constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in the kingdom. The

South-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from two to three

inches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour. It

is, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. A

marked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher

than the fore, the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds.

[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.]

[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.]

688. THE LEICESTER.--It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Robert

Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of

sheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock

which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester

is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, very

productive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, covered

with short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye,

long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. The

meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of the

South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weight

of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs.

[Illustration: HEATH RAM.]

[Illustration: HEATH EWE.]

689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.--This is the most hardy of all

our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and

legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top

of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than

on the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what

shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and

well open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The

wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16

lbs.

690. THE CHEVIOT.--From the earliest traditions, these hills in the

North, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of

large-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical

advantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and

capability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns,

face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throat

and neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated.

The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to the

hough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in the

chest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs.

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM.]

[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE.]

691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowland

moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex,

has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of

sheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous

for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially

for size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called

thickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminence

over every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish men

with the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted any

crossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and from

the Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in an

eminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed was

actually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock did

not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were ready

for the market a _year_ sooner; that the fat formed more on the exterior

of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather

than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal;

and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour,

finer, and possessed of superior felting properties.

692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact,

with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple

quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the

chest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendency

to fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Romney

Marsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of

perfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and

generally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep.

693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders,

according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after

weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or

teg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, a

shearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three,

or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The

female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes,

according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg;

after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future a

two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.

694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditious

a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animal

being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while

pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of

the jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck;

thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being

very rapid from such a hemorrhage.

[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or,

as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very

simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back,

doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell,

tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep,

they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (which

operation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and the

head removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numerals

indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut.

After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to

the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in

the sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the intervening

lines and figures. _Hind quarter_: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin--the two,

when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. _Fore quarter_: No. 3,

the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, the

scrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower and

better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often served

at public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg and

so much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on the

upper part of the carcase by a dotted line.

696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defenceless

condition, must very early have attached it to man for motives less

selfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been proved

beyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptible

of a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many parts

of Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, it

is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its

name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland,

when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known to

form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line,

keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatched

him with their horns.

697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adam

in his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for his

body, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abel

intrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tells

us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were

domesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exact

period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, is

equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though some

authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that

when Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a

sacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly

likely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam

and his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the

fact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as they

are reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and the

coverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of the

animals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations

only, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary

purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten till

after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. From

Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the

sheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious

portion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite

morsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especially

fit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer

that the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, and

known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs,

though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; a

supposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that the

ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was a

horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so far

proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailed

sheep appertaining to the same family.

LAMBS.

698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences in

March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the

appetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however,

the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would

endanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it

is customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter of

stables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow's

milk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary to

give the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in the

open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about

152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poor

lands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not till

the close of the fourth--sometimes longer.

699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in the

tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more

prone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the

flesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton.

Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the

South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which

have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are

considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the

milk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed

lamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the

others.

[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB.]

700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in

London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs

to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided

into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting

of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the

loin,--as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the

juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable

weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture

that may form on it.

701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by

which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion

whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints

possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat.

The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and

dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can

always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or

vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm,

compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner

for the integrity of the hind-quarter.

702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.--1, 1. Ribs; 2.

Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.

RECIPES.

The Book of Household Management · 第 17 / 52 章