CHAPTER XI

BAFFIN BAY

Sir Humphrey Gilbert—Sir Martin Frobisher—His first voyage—The

fateful stone—First meeting with the Eskimos—The Cathay

Company—Second voyage—Third voyage—Frobisher builds a fort—The

ships among the floes—Captain Hall finds the Frobisher

relics—Adrian Gilbert—John Davis—His voyages and dealings with the

Eskimos—Reaches and names Sanderson's Hope—The Traverse

Book—William Baffin—His first voyage to Greenland—His fourth and

fifth voyages—Discovers Baffin Land—Discovers Baffin Bay—Smith

Sound—Jones Sound—Lancaster Sound—Baffin's farthest north—John

Ross and Parry verify his discoveries.

In 1566 Humphrey Gilbert—who was as near to heaven by sea as by

land—petitioned Queen Elizabeth for privileges in regard to discoveries

"by the North-west to Cataia" as an alternative to a petition he, in

conjunction with Anthony Jenkinson, had presented the previous year for

a voyage by the north-east. He received no answer; but ten years

afterwards, in support of this unanswered petition, he published his

_Discourse of a Discovery for a New Passage to Cataia_. This met with

approval, and led, with little delay, to the expedition under the Martin

Frobisher who, among other noteworthy services, commanded the _Triumph_

in the Armada fight to such good purpose that he was one of the five

distinguished men knighted by Howard in mid-channel after the battle off

the Isle of Wight.

Frobisher was a good seaman—but no mineralogist. Mainly at the expense

of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and under the business management of

that old seafarer, Michael Lock, of the Muscovy Company, he left

Blackwall on the 7th of June, 1576, in the _Gabriel_ of twenty-five

tons, accompanied by the _Michael_ of twenty tons—which deserted and

returned as soon as difficulties arose—and a ten-ton pinnace, which

ended by foundering off Greenland. All told, the expedition numbered

thirty-five, of whom the _Gabriel_ carried eighteen; and with these the

voyage through the Arctic Ocean was to be made to China.

Leaving the Shetlands at her top speed of a league and a half an

hour—which her master, good Christopher Hall, proudly recorded—the

_Gabriel_ sighted Cape Farewell on the 11th of July. Two days afterwards

she was thrown on her beam-ends in a storm, and was rapidly filling with

water flowing in at her waist when she was relieved by the loss of her

fore-yard and the cutting away of her mizen-mast. Rounding the cape,

steering westward when he could among the floating ice, Frobisher

reached a high headland at the south-east end of what is now Frobisher

Bay, which he named Queen Elizabeth Foreland. A few days afterwards

Hall, out in a boat seeking a way through the ice for the ship, landed

on what they called Hall's Island, and, noticing a fog coming on, left

hurriedly, snatching up, as specimens of the plants, a few grasses and

flowers, and, as a rock specimen, a heavy black stone picked up

haphazard on the beach. The grass faded, the flowers perished, and the

fateful stone remained.

[Illustration: SIR MARTIN FROBISHER]

For fifty leagues Frobisher sailed north-westward into the bay, thinking

it to be a strait with Asia on the right hand and America on the left.

He landed at what he called Butcher's Island, saw "mightie deere which

ranne at him and hardly he escaped with his life in a narrow way where

he was faine to use defence and policie," and from a hill-top "perceived

a number of small things fleeting in the sea afarre off whyche hee

supposed to be porposes or seales or some kind of strange fishe but

coming nearer he discovered them to be men in small boates made of

leather," who only just failed in capturing his boat before he reached

it. Subsequent conferences with the Eskimos ended in his losing the boat

with five men who had gone ashore to trade; and finally, having lifted

single-handed one of the interesting natives, kayak and all, into the

_Gabriel_, he made sail for home.

When Lock went aboard on the ship's arrival there were no riches from

Cathay, nothing worth mentioning beyond the Eskimo—who soon died—the

kayak and paddle, and "the fyrste thynge found in the new land," the

black stone. He carried away the stone, after chipping off a few

fragments for the friends around, and after a week or two's

consideration sent some of it to the Mint to be assayed. The report was

not as he expected; the "saymaster" was of opinion that it was

marcasite, that is, iron pyrites. Not satisfied, Lock sent some to

another expert, who also said it was pyrites. Then he tried a third man,

who could find no gold in it. And then he tried a fourth—this time an

Italian—who gave him the answer he wanted: "A very little powder of gold

came thereout."

Lock sent him some more, telling him frankly that three other assayers

"could find no such thing therein," but again the Italian was equal to

the occasion. "The xviii day of January," writes Lock, "he sent me by

his mayde this little scrap of paper written, No. 1, hereinclosed; and

thereinclosed the grayne of gold, which afterward I delivered to your

majesty." For the Queen had become interested in the wonderful stone

which was the talk of the town, its value increasing at every recital

until many believed, as Sir Philip Sidney seems to have done, that it

was "the purest gold unalloyed with any other metals."

Lock was not the man to let such excellent advertisement be lost, and

forthwith he projected the Cathay Company for which the charter was

obtained from the Crown on St. Patrick's Day, 1577. Lock was named as

Governor for six years with remuneration "for ever" of one per cent on

all goods imported; Frobisher was named as Captain by sea and Admiral of

the ships and navy of the Company for life with a yearly stipend and one

per cent, like Lock, on all goods the Company brought in. Queen

Elizabeth—notwithstanding the report from the Mint—headed the list of

shareholders with £1000; and Burghley, Howard, Leicester, Walsingham,

Hunsdon, Sidney, even Gresham, subscribed for shares in this remarkable

company.

To bring home more of the "golden ore," a new expedition was entered

upon at once, and on the 26th of May, Whit-Sunday as it happened,

Frobisher started on his second voyage. He had three vessels, the _Aid_

of two hundred tons, lent him from the Royal Navy, and the _Gabriel_ and

_Michael_ as before, and one hundred and twenty officers and men, of

whom thirty were miners and other landsmen, and, in addition, six

condemned criminals whom he was to land in Greenland as colonists but

put ashore at Harwich instead.

To the new land—named by the Queen Meta Incognita, "the unknown limit of

the outward course"—he made his way without much adventure. Landing on

Hall's Island, he sought for more stone but could find not so much as a

piece as big as a walnut; for Hall, who was again with him as master,

had apparently lighted, in the one sample, on the whole of its mineral

wealth. This disappointment, however, was forgotten in the finding of

occasional patches of pyrites on the mainland and other islands which in

due course were visited. Thirty leagues up the bay a landing was made on

what was called Countess of Warwick's Island, where more ore was found

and a fort called Best's Bulwark was built. That was Frobisher's

farthest on this voyage, and thence he sailed on the 24th of August,

bringing with him two hundred tons of pyrites, and, as a present for the

Queen, a horn two yards long, wreathed and straight, which he had found

in the nose of a dead narwhal.

The ore was received with rejoicings. Some of it was deposited in

Bristol Castle, some in the Tower of London under four locks, but there

was not enough of it; and as there were then, as now, no furnaces in

England capable of getting gold out of marcasite, a new expedition was

despatched while the furnaces were being prepared. This time the

enterprise was to be on a very different scale. Frobisher was given a

fleet of fifteen vessels, Drake's old ship, the _Judith_, amongst them,

the _Aid_, as before, being the flagship. He was to bring home two

thousand tons of mineral and find other mines, if he could, besides

taking out a colony of a hundred persons to settle in Meta Incognita,

for whom the materials of a wooden house were among the miscellaneous

cargo.

The fleet left Harwich on the 31st of May, 1578. A landing was made in

the south of Greenland, which Frobisher named West England and took

possession of, his point of departure from there being called by him,

"from a certain similitude," Charing Cross! Soon he was among the ice

floes. One of the ships was driven on to a floe and sank with some of

the materials for the wooden house. Then followed a storm in which most

of the ships had a terrible experience. "Some," says Captain Best of the

_Ann Frances_, the chronicler of the voyage, "were so fast shut up and

compassed in amongst an infinite number of great countreys and ilands of

ise, that they were fayne to submit themselves and their ships to the

mercie of the unmercifull ise, and strengthened the sides of their ships

with junckes of cables, beds, masts, planckes, and such like, which

being hanged overboord, on the sides of their shippes, mighte the better

defend them from the outrageous sway and strokes of the said ise. But as

in greatest distresse, men of best value are best to be discerned, so it

is greatly worthy commendation and noting with what invincible mind

every captayne encouraged his company, and with what incredible labour

the paynefull mariners and poore miners (unacquainted with such

extremities) to the everlasting renoune of our nation, dyd overcome the

brunt of these so great and extreame daungers; for some, even without

boorde uppon the ise, and some within boorde, uppon the sides of their

shippes, having poles, pikes, peeces of timber and ores in their hands,

stood almost day and night, without any reste, bearing off the force,

and breaking the sway of the ise, with suche incredible payne and perill

that it was wonderfull to behold, which otherwise no doubt had striken

quite through and through the sides of their shippes, notwithstanding

our former provision; for planckes of timber, of more than three ynches

thick, and other things of greater force and bignesse, by the surging of

the sea and billow, with the ise were shevered and cutte in sunder at

the sides of oure ships, that it will seeme more than credible to be

reported of. And yet (that which is more) it is faythfully and playnely

to be proved, and that by many substantiall witnesses, that our shippes,

even those of greatest burdens, with the meeting of contrary waves of

the sea, were heaved up betweene islandes of ise a foote welneere out of

the sea above their watermarke, having their knees and timbers within

boorde both bowed and broken therewith."

To add to the difficulties of the voyage Frobisher lost his way, and

entered what he called the Mistaken Streight—now designated Hudson

Strait—through which he might have found his way to Cathay, had he been

so minded; but recognising that he was on the wrong road he returned and

reached his mining district at the end of July. While the ore was being

gathered in, Best ventured into the upper part of Frobisher Bay as far

as the Gabriel Islands—the only exploring work that was done—and early

in September the fleet departed on the homeward voyage.

Frobisher had left one unmistakable indication of his visit behind him.

On Countess of Warwick Island he had built a house of lime and stone,

and "the better," says Best, "to allure those brutish and uncivill

people to courtesie, againste other times of our comming, we left

therein dyvers of our countrye toyes, as bells and knives, wherein they

specially delight, one for the necessarie use, and the other for the

great pleasure thereof. Also pictures of men and women in lead, men a

horsebacke, lookinglasses, whistles and pipes. Also in the house was

made an oven, and breade left baked therein, for them to see and taste.

We buried the timber of our pretended forte, with manye barrels of

meale, pease, griste, and sundrie other good things, which was of the

provision of those whyche should inhabite, if occasion served. And

insteade therof we fraight oure ships full of ore, whiche we holde of

farre greater price."

Here we part from the Cathay Company. The inevitable trouble came with

the discovery that, practically, the only gold the ore would yield was

that put in as an "additament" by the Italian. A very thick cloud rolled

over Frobisher, who, like Lock, seems to have believed in the

genuineness of the affair all through; but soon his country had need of

him and he came to the front again in so worthy a manner that little

more was heard of his connection with this company that failed.

[Illustration: ESKIMO AWAITING A SEAL]

To complete the story. In 1861 (say three hundred years afterwards)

Captain Hall—hearing among the Eskimos how numerous white men had

arrived first in two, then three, then a great many ships, how they had

killed several natives and taken away two, how five of the white men had

been captured, and how these had built a large boat and put a mast in

her and sailed away to death when the water was open—went to Kod-lun-arn

(White Man's Island) and there found the house of lime and stone as

described, and traces of the diggings, and many relics among which he

made the collection presented by him to the British Government.

In the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert, whose _Discourse_ gave so

great a stimulus to Arctic discovery, founded St. John's,

Newfoundland—the first English colony in America—a patent was granted by

Queen Elizabeth to his brother Adrian "of Sandridge in the county of

Devon," as one of the colleagues of the Fellowship for the Discovery of

the North-West Passage. At this Sandridge—on the east of the Dart,

bounded on three sides by the river, some two miles above Dartmouth—was

the home of the three Gilberts (John, Humphrey, and Adrian), whose

mother by a second marriage became the mother of Carew and Walter

Raleigh; and here, about 1550, of a family also owning property in the

small peninsula, was born John Davis, as we know him, or John Davys, as

he signed himself, who was probably a playmate, and certainly a

life-long friend, of these five.

Davis was an accomplished seaman, the best of the Elizabethan

navigators, and a man of accurate observation, always on the alert,

whose reputation does not rest only on the work he did in the northern

and other seas, for he was the author of _The Seaman's Secrets_, the

most popular practical navigation treatise of its time. Very early,

perhaps from the first, he was one of the moving spirits in this new

north-west enterprise, for on the 23rd of January, 1583, we find Dr.

Dee-who had helped to send Frobisher on his first voyage—making an entry

in his journal that Mr. Secretary Walsingham had come to his house,

where by good luck he found Mr. Adrian Gilbert, and so talk began on

"the north-west straits discovery"; and, next day, "I, Mr. Awdrian

Gilbert and John Davis, went by appointment to Mr. Beale, his howse,

where only we four were secret, and we made Mr. Secretary privie of the

N.W. Passage, and all charts and rutters were agreed upon in

generall"—"rutter" being the French "routier," originating in _Le

Routier de la Mer_, signifying a book of sea routes. Another important

friend of Davis was William Sanderson, the representative of the

merchants by whom the expenses of the voyage were borne, he being the

chief subscriber. One of the ships, the _Moonshine_, seems to have

belonged to him, and it was largely owing to his influence among the

shareholders that Davis was appointed captain and chief pilot of the

"exployt," in which he was to practically rediscover Greenland.

There were two vessels, the _Sunshine_ of London, fifty-nine tons, with

twenty-three persons on board, and the _Moonshine_ of Dartmouth,

thirty-five tons, with nineteen. They left Dartmouth on the 7th of June,

1585, but had to put in at Falmouth and then at the Scillies, where

Davis occupied the twelve days he spent there in surveying and charting

the islands. On the 20th of July they were sailing down the east coast

of Greenland, and were so little attracted by it that Davis called it

the Land of Desolation. Nine days afterwards he found a group of many

pleasant green islands bordering on the shore, while the mountains of

the mainland were still covered with snow, and here he landed on the

west coast at Gilbert Sound, as he named it, near where Godthaab now is,

and entered into communication with the natives.

[Illustration: A GREENLANDER IN HIS KAYAK]

For such occasions, apparently, he had among the _Sunshine_ people four

described as musicians, whom, on sighting the Eskimos, he sent for. As

soon as they arrived from the ship he ordered them to strike up a

dancing tune, and to their merry music Davis and his men began to caper

as if they were enjoying themselves immensely, while the lookers-on

gradually increased in number. "At length," he says, "one of them

poynting up to the sunne with his hande would presently strike his brest

so hard that we might hear the blowe. This he did many times, before he

would any way trust us. Then John Ellis the master of the _Mooneshine_,

was appointed to use his best policie to gaine their friendshippe: who

strooke his breast and poynted to the sunne after their order: which

when he had diverse times done, they began to trust him, and one of them

came on shoare, to whom we threwe our caps, stockings and gloves, and

such other things as then we had about us, playing with our musicke, and

making signes of joy, and dancing. So the night comming we bade them

farewell, and went aboord our barks."

The next morning, being the 30th of July, thirty-seven canoes came up to

the ships, their occupants calling to the English to come on shore. "Wee

not making any great haste unto them, one of them went up to the top of

the rocke, and lept and daunced as they had done the day before, shewing

us a seales skinne, and another thing made like a timbrel, which he did

beate upon with a sticke, making a noyse like a small drumme." Whereupon

Davis manned his boats and went to the waterside where they were in

their canoes, "and after we had sworne by the sunne after their fashion,

they did trust us. So I shooke hands with one of them, and hee kissed my

hand, and we were very familier with them. We bought five canoas of

them, we bought their clothes from their backs, which were all made of

seales skins and birdes skinnes: their buskins, their hose, their

gloves, all being commonly sewed and well dressed: so that we were fully

persuaded that they have divers artificers among them. Wee had a paire

of buskins of them full of fine wooll like bever. Their apparell for

heate, was made of bird skinnes with their feathers on them. We sawe

among them leather dressed like glovers leather, and thicke thongs like

white leather of a good length. Wee had of their darts and oares, and

found in them that they would by no meanes displease us, but would give

us whatsoever we asked of them and would be satisfied with whatsoever we

gave them. They took great care one of an other: for when we had bought

their boates, then two other woulde come and carie him away betweene

them that had soulde us his." He describes them as "a very tractable

people, voyde of craft or double dealing, and easie to be brought to

civiltie or good order," the men of good stature, unbearded, small-eyed,

"by whom, as signes would permit, we understood that towards the north

and west there was a great sea."

During his stay among these islands he found considerable quantities of

wood—fir, spruce, and juniper—which whether it came floating any great

distance or grew in some island near he did not discover; but he thought

it grew further inland because the people had so many darts and paddles

which they held of little value and gave away for insignificant trifles.

He also found "great abundance of seales" in shoals as if they were

small fish; but saw no fresh water, only snow water in large pools, and

he notes that the "cliffes were all of such oare as M. Frobisher brought

from Meta Incognita."

Leaving the sound on the 1st of August he crossed the strait now named

after him and reached land in 66° 40´. In water "altogether voyd from ye

pester of ice" he anchored, "in a very fair rode, under a very brave

mount, the cliffs whereof were as orient as gold." This mount he named

Mount Raleigh, the roadstead he called Totnes Rode, the sound round the

mount he named Exeter Sound, the foreland to the north he called Dyer's

Cape, the southern foreland being named Cape Walsingham—all of which

names remain. Here white bears were killed "of monstrous bignesse," a

raven was descried upon Mount Raleigh, withies were found growing low

like shrubs, and there were flowers like primroses, though there was no

grass.

For three days Davis went coasting downwards, and rounding the

southern point of the peninsula, which he named the Cape of God's

Mercy, he entered what he afterwards called Cumberland Strait, now

Cumberland Gulf, supposing it to be his way to the westward. It was

clear of ice; sixty leagues up islands were found, among which a stay

was made during five days of very foggy foul weather. On the 15th of

August "we heard dogs houle on the shoare, which we thought had bene

Wolves, and therefore we went on shoare to kil them; when we came on

lande, the dogs came presently to our boate very gently, yet we

thought they came to pray upon us, and therefore we shot at them and

killed two: and about the necke of one of them we found a letheren

coller, whereupon we thought them to be tame dogs. Then wee went

farther and founde two sleads made like ours in Englande. The one was

made of firre, spruse and oken boards, sawen like inch boards; the

other was made all of whale bone, and there hung on the toppes of the

sleds three heads of beasts, which they had killed. We saw here

larkes, ravens, and partriges"—probably rock ptarmigan.

Searching about, it was agreed that the place was all islands, with

sounds passing between them; that the water remained of the same colour

as the main ocean, whereas in every bay they had been into it became

blackish; that a shoal of whales they saw must have come from the west,

because to the eastward no whale had been seen; that "there came a

violent counter checke of a tide from the south-west against the flood

which we came with, not knowing from whence it was maintayned"; that the

further they ran westward the deeper was the water, "so that hard abord

the shoare among these yles we could not have ground in 330 fathoms";

and that, lastly, there was a tide range of six or seven fathoms, "the

flood comming from diverse parts, so as we could not perceive the chiefe

maintenance thereof." For which six reasons it was determined to

continue the voyage to the westward if the weather changed—which it did

to worse with the wind unfavourable, so that the ships had to run for

shelter and then sail for home, crossing the Atlantic from Greenland in

a fortnight. On arrival Davis reported to Walsingham that the North-West

Passage was a matter nothing doubtful, but at any time almost to be

passed, the sea navigable, void of ice, the air tolerable, and the

waters very deep; and a voyage for next year was decided on, for which

the merchants of Exeter, Totnes, London, Cullompton, Chard, and

Tiverton, and five private subscribers, "did adventure their money"—to

the amount of £1175—"with Mr. Adrian Gilbert and Mr. John Davis in a

voyage for the discovery of China, the seventh daie of April in the

xxviij yeare of the rayne of or. soverayne Ladie Elizabeth."

The fleet, consisting of the _Mermaid_ of one hundred and twenty tons,

the _Sunshine_ and _Moonshine_, and a ten-ton pinnace named the _North

Star_, left Dartmouth on the 7th of May, 1586. On reaching Greenland the

_Sunshine_ and _North Star_ were sent up the east coast of Greenland,

while the _Mermaid_ and _Moonshine_ made for Gilbert Sound.

Here the Eskimos received them cordially "after they had espied in the

boate, some of our companie that were the yeere before heere with us,

they presently rowed to the boate, and tooke holde on the oare, and hung

about the boate with such comfortable joy as woulde require a long

discourse to be uttered: they came with the boates to our shippes,

making signes that they knewe all those that the yere before had bene

with them. After I perceived their joy, and smal feare of us, my selfe

with the merchaunts, and others of the company went a shoare, bearing

with me twentie knives: I had no sooner landed, but they lept out of

their Canoas, and came running to mee and the rest, and imbraced us with

many signes of hartie welcome: at this present there were eighteene of

them, and to each of them I gave a knife: they offered skinnes to mee

for rewarde, but I made signes that it was not solde, but given them of

curtesie: and so dismissed them for that time, with signes that they

shoulde returne againe after certaine houres." But soon there were

passing troubles owing to iron having so great an attraction for them

that they could not resist stealing it. While amongst them, exploring

the country, Davis compiled the first Eskimo vocabulary known, a list of

some forty words written down phonetically, most of them remarkably good

approaches considering that both parties were ignorant of each other's

language, none of them, however, except that for "sea" being likely to

be of any use in putting him on the road to China.

On leaving Gilbert Sound, Davis when in latitude 63° 8´ "fel upon a most

mighty and strange quantity of ice, in one intyre masse, so bigge as

that we knew not the limits thereof, and being withall so very high, in

forme of a land, with bayes and capes, and like high cliffe land, as

that we supposed it to be land, and therefore sent our pinnesse off to

discover it: but at her returne we were certainely informed that it was

onely ice, which bred great admiration to us all, considering the huge

quantity thereof, incredible to be reported in truth as it was, and

therefore I omit to speake any further thereof. This onely, I thinke

that the like before was never seene, and in this place we had very

stickle and strong currants. We coasted this mighty masse of ice untill

the 30 of July, finding it a mighty bar to our purpose: the ayre in this

time was so contagious, and the sea so pestered with ice, as that all

hope was banished of proceeding: for the 24 of July all our shrowds,

ropes, and sailes were so frozen, and compassed with ice, onely by a

grosse fogge, as seemed to me more then strange, sith the last yeere I

found this sea free and navigable, without impediments."

Crossing the straits he repaired and revictualled the _Moonshine_ in an

excellent harbour among islands where they found it very hot and were

"very much troubled with a flie which is called Musketa, for they did

sting grievously." Forsaken by the _Mermaid_, he abandoned the search in

Cumberland Sound as he "found small hope to pass any farther that way,"

and worked south, it being too late to go northwards, crossing Frobisher

Bay, which he described as "another great inlet neere forty leagues

broad where the water entered with violent swiftnesse, this we also

thought might be a passage, for no doubt the north parts of America are

all islands." Off the coast of Labrador he found a vast shoal of

codfish, of which he caught over forty with a long spike nail made into

a hook. These he salted, and some of them, on his return, he gave, at

Walsingham's request, to Burghley, who, at an interview, encouraged him

to make a further attempt.

Next year he was off again, this time "to the Isles of the Molucca or

the coast of China." He seems to have been on board the _Ellen_, a small

craft of some twenty tons, his two other vessels being the _Sunshine_ as

before, and the _Elizabeth_. These he left to fish for cod in the

straits while he went northward from Gilbert Sound in his little

"clinker," which he had probably chosen as being handy for ice

navigation. Running along the land, to which he gave the name of London

Coast, he reached 72° 12´—the highest north up to then attained—where he

named the loftiest of the headlands Sanderson's Hope, whose lofty crest

piercing through the driving clouds near Upernivik has become perhaps

the best-known landmark in the northern seas. Here the wind suddenly

shifting to the northward made further progress impossible, and he had

to shape his course westerly, and then, owing to ice, which he in vain

endeavoured to get round to the north, he had to turn southwards. Amid

much fog, and with the ice always present, he came down the coast of

Baffin Land, giving a name here and there on the way, until on the 31st

of July he passed "a very great gulfe, the water whirling and roring, as

it were the meetings of tides," which was probably the entrance to

Hudson Strait. Next day he was off the Labrador coast and named Cape

Chidley after his friend who died in the Straits of Magellan, and on the

15th of August he laid his course for England.

[Illustration: BAFFIN BAY IN 1819]

Of this voyage Hakluyt prints the Traverse Book, one of the earliest

known. In it the full detail is given for every day, arranged in nine

columns, one each for the month, the day, the hour, the courses, the

leagues, the elevation of the pole in degrees and minutes, the wind, and

a remarks column headed "The Discourse"—for Davis was an exact and

systematic man remarkable for his latitudes never being wrong, though

like all those old navigators before the invention of the chronometer,

he was frequently out in his longitude. He was going off again bound for

the sea north of Sanderson's Hope, but the coming of the Armada and the

death of Walsingham caused the postponement of the project he did not

abandon, for it seems that the _Desire_, in which he discovered the

Falkland Islands at the other end of America, was to be his reward for

accompanying Cavendish round the world, and that in her he intended to

make his next Polar voyage.

The work he had set himself to do was done by William Baffin, who first

appears in the Arctic record as pilot of the _Patience_ in James Hall's

Greenland voyage in 1612, which ended in Hall being killed in revenge

for the kidnapping proceedings on the two previous voyages under the

Danish flag. Baffin then made two voyages, as we have seen, to

Spitsbergen in the service of the Muscovy Company, and, in that of the

Company for the Discovery of the North-West Passage, he made his fourth,

in 1615. In Hudson's old ship the _Discovery_, also her fourth trip to

the north, he passed up Hudson Strait to the end of Southampton Island,

where he abandoned the attempt to get through owing to ice and shallow

water, and returned after discovering the land that Parry named after

him.

In his fifth voyage, again in the _Discovery_, with Robert Bylot again

as master, he left Gravesend on the 16th of March, 1616, and reached

Sanderson's Hope on the 30th of May, discovering the great bay to the

north which bears his name. Passing the Women Islands and the Baffin

Islands off Cape Shackleton, he took the middle passage across Melville

Bay, coasting along by Cape York, by the cape named after one of his

directors, Sir Dudley Digges, and the sound named after another of his

directors, Sir John Wolstenholme; along Prudhoe Land, entering the North

Water of the whalers, reaching Cape Alexander in 77° 45´, his farthest

north; opening up and naming Smith Sound, after Sir Thomas Smith,

another of his directors, and Jones Sound, after Alderman Sir Francis

Jones, another of the board, and Lancaster Sound, after Sir James

Lancaster of the East India Company. Thus, coasting Ellesmere Land,

North Devon, Bylot Island, and Baffin Land, he continued his voyage from

the north on his way home. A good piece of work: the discoveries so many

and unexpected that people ceased to believe in them, geographers going

so far as to erase his bay from their maps until, two hundred years

afterwards, Ross and Parry sailed over the land of the unbelievers and

confirmed Baffin's work in every detail—and Ross, in his best

mountain-finding manner, reported no thoroughfare at Smith Sound.

[Illustration: DR. E. K. KANE]

Round About the North Pole · 第 11 / 13 章