contain a veritable tissue in which, tho the threads are combined in
such a way as to produce more or less open effects, the opaque parts
are woven regularly, that is as linen is woven. The pattern of the mesh
of each of these laces is different.
Valenciennes (sketch q.).
Binche (sketch r and s.).
Malines (sketch t.).
Point de Paris (sketch u.).
Point de Lille (sketch v.).
Further, Malines, Chantilly, Point de Lille, and Point de Paris are
characterized by the presence of the _bourdon_, or heavy thread,
slightly twisted, outlining all the details of the design.
Grammont, or Chantilly lace, is usually made of black silk thread.
The mesh is the same as that of Point de Lille. In it the toile is
replaced by the grillé, which adds greatly to the lightness of the
effect.
[Illustration: _r._ Binche mesh]
N. B.—To be understood technically, all these laces made with
continuous thread should be considered from the point of view of
the place they occupy on the cushion of the worker: They are held
vertically with the selvage at the left.
[Illustration: _s._ Mesh of “snow-ball” pattern, used in Binche]
It is necessary to mention with these laces, Torchon, the most common
of all, which has little artistic value, and has entered more and more
into the domain of the machine. Torchon base (sketch w.).
[Illustration: _t._ Malines mesh]
[Illustration: _u._ Point de Paris mesh]
[Illustration: _v._ Point de Lille mesh]
[Illustration: _w._ Torchon base]
[Illustration: _x._ Picot]
[Illustration: _y._ Cluny pattern]
Group _A._—Cluny laces demand great ingenuity in execution. The most
simple are made entirely by braiding in such a way as to produce an
effect of interlacing (sketch y.). The braids are formed of four
threads; when the interlacing is more important they become more
complicated. At times the braids group themselves to form the flat
surface or toile which later will resolve again into braids. They
unite and part, sometimes dividing into strands (brides) of two
threads according to the lines of the design. This design should be
absolutely precise. And since in it the future employment of each
thread must be constantly foreseen, it is quite impossible to compose
a Cluny lace pattern without a knowledge of the technique of that lace
(sketch y).
[Illustration: _z._ Interpreted Torchon pattern]
[Illustration: Completed lace]
Sometimes the general name guipure is given to Cluny, as well as to all
laces made with continuous thread which have not a mesh base.
INDEX
Aerseele, 110
Albert King, 194
Alcantara, Comtesse d’, 252
Alençon (town), 31
Alençon lace, 38, 132
Allard, Mme. Josse, 169, 172, 209
Alost, Lace region of, 149, 169ff, 224
Spinneries of, 82
America, Aid from, 17, 235, 236
Lace buyer of, 252
Laces displayed in, 40
Americans in Ghent, 248
Amies de la Dentelle, Convent subsidized by, 218
Lace quality conservation by, 100, 272
Prices under, 103
School reforms under, 15
War committee, see Brussels Lace Committee
Antik lace, see Flanders, Old
Antwerp, Old Flanders in, 115
Port of, 30, 166
Province of, 146
Application lace, 226, 241
Areas producing, 277
Bobbins for, 289
Lacets for, 171
Method of making, 221ff, 292
Restoration of, 256
Tulle base for, 41, 259
Ardois, 109
Argentin lace, 38
Arras, 31
Asper, 252
Bachte, 252
Baelegem, 251
Bailleul, 34
Devastation of, 36
Bayeux, 131
Beernem, 123
Béguinage of Bruges, 154ff
of Ghent, 155
Berraly’s convent, Abbé, 53ff
Beth, Thread firm of, 81
Bethune, Baron de, 85
Beughem, Vicomtesse de, 17, 127, 169
Binche lace, 115, 150, 152, 166
Areas producing, 277
Mesh designs, 297, 298
Method of making, 40, 296
Bixio, M., 27
Blonde lace, 40
Method of making, 134
Bobbin lace, 37
Areas producing, 97ff, 144ff
Method of making, 39, 287ff
Teaching, 161
Varieties of, 39, 40, 292, 296
Bousies, Comtesse de, 249
Brabant, Lace area of, 215ff
Province of, 146
Bruges (town), 30, 51, 87, 91, 124, 247
Lace region of, 143ff
Lace Normal School of, 76, 100
Bruges lace, 241, 249, 257
Areas producing, 143ff, 277
Collars and cuffs, 113
Duchesse, 40, 149, 150, 152
Method of making, 292
Old, 109
Point de, 104
Rosaline and, 226ff
Bruggen, Mme. Van der, 123
Brussels (town), 19, 21, 85, 204, 210, 216, 217, 232, 241, 253
German “Lace Control” in, 122
Museum, 26, 42, 86
Point d’Angleterre in, 223
School of Design, 76, 165, 279
Brussels lace,
Duchesse, 40, 237, 241
Point, 39, 179, 182, 283, 286
Method of making Brussels Point, 286
Brussels Lace Committee, 127, 148, 151, 195
Agency, purchasing and sales, 108, 116, 174, 182, 206,
210, 225, 237, 241
Designs of, 58, 193, 242
Educational aims of, 56, 75, 115
German interference with, 123, 238
Improvements through, 36, 53, 121
Map of lace areas, 276
Origin and purpose of, 15ff
Personnel of, 17
Prices paid by, 103, 112, 123, 124, 254
Representatives of, 105, 118, 149, 236, 252
Thread supply for, 82, 88
Burano lace, 39
Bysance, 26
Calais, 35, 172
Celine, 250
Chantilly lace, 40, 205
Areas producing, 127ff, 277
Method of making, 296
Cinquantenaire Museum, 26, 42, 86
Claterna, Ancient bobbins of, 27
Cluny lace, 28, 44, 89, 94, 98, 111, 118, 123, 149,
150, 152, 162, 225, 237, 251
Areas producing, 277
Designs, 302
Duty on, 90
Guipures of, 99, 103, 104, 113, 149
Method of making, 39, 296, 302, 304
Coates, Thread firm of, 82
Cock, Gillemont de, 148, 166
Colbert, 31
Colette, 179
Collart, M., 17
Comité National, Cooperation of, 16, 17, 19
Relief work of, 216, 235
Commission for Relief in Belgium, 120, 236
Cooperation of, 16, 19, 135
Compagnie des Indes, 17
Convents, Lace-making
Bruges, 149
Cruyshautem, 202
Eecke, 252
Erembodeghem, 189ff
Heckelgem, 215ff
Kerxken, 173
Liedekerke, 218ff
Opbrakel, 201ff
Ruysselede, 252, 255
Scheldewinkle, 252
Thielt, 105, 110
Turnhout, 53ff
Coppens, Mme., 256ff, 265
Courtrai lace region, 79ff
Cox, Thread firm of, 81
Cruyshautem convent, 202
Cuseners, Mme., 129
Designs of various laces, 278ff
Destelbergen, 224, 251, 256
Deynze district, 252, 253
Dixmude, 87, 143
Duchesse lace, 98, 123, 163, 249, 251, 252, 255
Areas producing, 277
Bobbins for, 289
Bruges, 40, 149, 150, 152
Brussels, 40, 237, 241
Guipures, 99
Method of making, 292
Eecke convent, 252
Egypt, 26
Elizabeth, Queen, 17
Laces for, 38, 193ff, 270ff
Patronage of, 15
England, 30
Thread from, 19, 82
Tulle from, 35
Erembodeghem, 185, 210
Lace region of, 189ff
Flanders (district), Lace industry in 30, 43ff, 146
Flanders lace, 41, 99, 163, 237, 241, 251
Details of, 224, 114ff
Guipures of, 113
Method of making, 292
Old, 40, 111, 114ff, 150, 152, 166, 225
France, History of lace in, 30ff
Franciscaine Sisters, 173ff, 189ff, 201ff
Friends of Lace, see Amies de la Dentelle
Furnes, 87, 271
Gand, Canton de, 248
German depredations, 51, 59, 80, 82ff, 88, 231
facteurs, 88, 119
interference with lace workers, 18, 105, 110, 119,
120ff, 157ff, 174, 190, 219, 237ff
“Lace Control,” 20, 120ff
Ghent, 30, 87, 143, 147
Béguinage of, 155
Lace Committee, 249ff
Lace region of, 247ff
Spinneries of, 82
Graeht, Baron van der, 105, 108, 114
Mlle. van der, 105
Grammont, Chantilly lace region, 127ff, 206, 296
Greeks, 26
Grenadine d’Alays, 139
Groothuis museum, 151
Gulleghem, 92
Gysenzeele, 251
Hainaut, Province of, 146
Haltaert, 170
Hansbeek, 255
Hebrews, 26
Heckelgem convent, 215ff
Henry, Mrs. Bayard, 92
Herzele lace region, 231ff
Holland, 30
Lace for Queen of, 207
Hoover, Herbert C., 18
Mrs. Herbert C., 193
Hours of lace workers, 65ff 111ff 217, 228, 255, 268
Imitations, 17, 41, 171, 183
of Chantilly, 132, 138
of Point d’Angleterre, 221
Import duty on lace, 90
Ireland, Thread from, 82
Iseghem, 98
Italy, 15, 36
Ancient bobbins in, 27
History of lace in, 29
Kefer-Mali, Mme., 17, 42, 215, 221
Kerxken lace region, 169ff, 224
Knesselars, 251
Lace areas, List and Map of, 276ff
History of, 25ff
Methods of making, 279ff
Schools, 146, 147, 242ff
Amies de la Dentelle and, 15ff, 76
Chantilly, 129, 131
Convent, 53ff 105, 149ff, 177, 190ff, 205ff, 215, 218ff, 252
Coppens’, 256
Normal, 100, 110ff, 152, 156ff, 273
Trade Union, 265ff
Varieties of, see Bobbin lace and Needle lace
Landsanter, 251
Liedekerke lace region, 215ff
Liedt’s collection, Baron, 151
Lille, 30, 34
Lootenhulle, 252, 255
Louis XIII, 32
Louis XIV, 31, 32, 33
Louis Philippe, 35
Lys River valley flax, 30, 79ff
Machelin, 252
Maertens, Professor, 148, 156
Maldeghem, 149
Malines (town) 30, 86, 248
Malines lace, 40, 100
Areas producing, 277
Bobbins for, 288, 289
Mesh design, 299
Method of making, 73ff, 296
Old laces, 86
Point de Lille and, 71, 72
Map of lace areas, 276
Margharita of Italy, Queen, 15
Maria Loop, 110
Marie Antoinette, 33
Marie-Henriette, Duchess of Brabant, 249
Marie-Thérèse, Empress, 248
Menin, 87
Mercier, Cardinal, 239
Malines lace of, 75
Milan lace, 104
Guipure of, 114
Mullie, Mlle., 87, 89, 90
Museum, Brussels, 26, 42, 86
Courtrai, 85
Groothuis, 151
Needle lace, 37ff, 201, 206, 208ff, 273
Method of making, 279ff
Varieties of, 38ff, 286
Needle Point lace, 44, 99, 162, 169, 189, 202, 223,
248, 249, 251, 252, 269, 270
Areas producing, 277
Method of making, 178ff, 286
New York, 90
Nieuport, 87, 143, 271
Ninove, 128
Spinneries of, 82
Northcliffe’s posters, Lord, 240
Oedelem, 123
Oostcamp, 123, 149
Oosterzele, 251
Opbrakel convent, 189, 201ff
Oultremont, Comtesse Elizabeth d’, 17
Paisley spinneries, 82
Parc, Comte du, 231ff
Mme. du, 231ff
Paris lace market, 69, 90, 196, 223
Paulis, Mme. Lucie, 165, 279
Peat, Thread firm of, 93, 134
Persia, 26
Pittham, 109
Point d’ Alençon, 132
d’Angleterre, 181, 221, 241, 260
Method of making, 40, 223ff
de Bruges, 104
de Flanders, 224ff
de Gaze, 179, 283
d’Hollande, 72
Areas producing, 277
de Lille, 40
Areas producing, 277
Mesh design, 300
Method of making, 71, 296
de Milan, 104
de Paris, 40, 134
Areas producing, 277
Bobbins for, 289
Mesh design, 299
Method of making, 62, 296
Various uses of, 69, 71
de Venise, see Venetian Point
Pompadour, Marquise de, 33
Poperinghe, 87, 271
Prices paid for lace, 88, 103, 117, 183, 196, 217, 254
Prices paid for supplies, 88, 93
Priestess of Hathor, 27
Puy, Thread firm of, 93
Reims, 31
Reticella, 286
Retreats, 154ff
Rippenhausen, Freiherr von, 121
Robertine, Sœur, 174ff, 197
Rond mesh, 91
Roose, Mme., 151
Rosalie, 217
Rosaline lace, 40, 152, 221, 223, 237, 241, 249, 255
Areas producing, 277
Method of making, 226ff, 292
Rose point lace, 39, 195, 292
Method of making, 286
Rubbens, Dr. Armand, 162, 267ff
Rudder, M. de, 193
Rulant, Adele, 172
Russian lace, 163
Ruysselede, 110, 252, 255
Ryeland, Mme., 149
St. Andre, 149
St. Croix, 149
St. Michel, 149, 153
St. Pierre des Calais, 132
Scheldewinkle convent, 252
Schools, see Lace schools
Sedan, 31
Sharlaecken, Mme., 17
Sicily, 30
Sidonie, 178
Sister A., 190ff
Sister M., 220ff
Sister S., 195
Slock, Mlle., 118
Spain, Blonde lace for, 40, 134
Stéphanie, 257ff, 265ff
Stoop, M. de, 79, 84
Syria, 26
Syssele, 149
Thielt lace region, 97ff
Thourout lace region, 97ff
Torchon lace, 40, 94, 99, 150, 152, 298
Areas producing, 277
Bobbins for, 289
Designs of, 301, 303
Teaching of, 162
Turnhout, 43, 135, 143, 144, 165
Lace region of, 49ff
Union Patriotique des Femmes Belges, 17
Valenciennes (town), 30, 34, 147
Valenciennes lace, 31, 40, 85, 89, 94, 99, 102, 105,
123, 149, 150, 151, 152, 155, 156, 163, 166, 248, 249
Areas producing, 79ff, 87, 277
Bobbins for, 288
Duty on, 90
Mesh, 27, 41, 71, 90
Mesh design, 295
Method of making, 296
Prices paid for, 254ff
School for, 110, 252
Values of lace, 31, 88, 90, 225, 269
See also Prices
Van Hoeimessen, Curé, 176
Venetian Point lace, 206
Medallions, 192, 210
Varieties of, 39
See also Venise
Venice, 29, 30, 144, 206
Venise lace, 39, 169, 182, 189, 216, 237, 251, 252
Areas producing, 277
Method of making, 178, 192, 285, 286
“Queen’s Cloth” of, 193ff
Vynck, 252, 254
Wages paid lace workers, 44, 65, 73, 89, 92, 110, 112ff,
124, 172, 218, 228, 250, 258, 268
Wevelghem, 92
Whitlock, Mrs. Brand, 16
Wynghene lace region, 97ff
Burgomaster of, 118
Ypres, 36, 87, 90, 143, 271
Zele, Lace school at, 76, 162, 265ff
WOMEN _of_ BELGIUM
TURNING TRAGEDY TO TRIUMPH
_A Book of Gripping Human Interest_
By CHARLOTTE KELLOGG
An absorbingly interesting narrative of personal experience by the only
woman member of the Relief Commission, who tells in moving language the
story of the unbreakable spirit sustaining the Belgians and the noble
service the Belgian women have rendered and inspired in a land made
desolate by war.
Introduction by HERBERT C. HOOVER,
_Chairman, Commission for Relief in Belgium_
To quote from Mr. Hoover’s own foreword: “The soul of Belgium received
a grievous wound, but the women of Belgium are staunching the flow,
sustaining and leading this stricken nation to greater strength and
greater life. We of the Relief have been proud of the privilege to
place the tools in the hands of these women and have watched their
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Mrs. Kellogg has done more than record in simple terms passing
impressions of the varied facts of the work of these women, for she
spent months in loving sympathy with them. We offer her little book
as our, and Mrs. Kellogg’s tribute in admiration of them and the
inspiration which they have contributed to this whole organization.”
_12mo, cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.12._
_What Leading Periodicals Say of_
WOMEN _of_ BELGIUM
By CHARLOTTE KELLOGG
“So impressed was Mrs. Kellogg by the greatness and value of what the
Belgian women are doing to help save the Belgian people that she has
written this book, in which each chapter describes some phase or tells
some incident of what she saw. The simplicity with which she writes
makes the wonderful story of the devotion, the unstinted service,
the utter self-abnegation with which many thousands of Belgian women
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grandly.”—_Times_, New York.
“Among the thousands of books that have been written on the
war, in this country and abroad, the pen of a woman has given
us the truest portrayal of the real heart of a heart-broken
people.”—_Constitution_, Atlanta, Ga.
“The pages brim with information and with profoundest pathos.
As you read some of them you will feel a lump in your
throat.”—_Knickerbocker Press_, Albany, N. Y.
“It is a book of tears, heart-throbs, and of devotion.... We do not
think that anyone who reads it will regret sending a son to redress
the wrongs of humanity.”—_Inquirer_, Philadelphia, Pa.
“The farther you read the more you will wish to read, so great is the
charm, so intense the interest.”—_Eastern Argus_, Portland, Me.
“It is full of the kind of stuff that makes us proud of the part
played by Americans in the work of saving Belgium from famine during
the long, sad months that Germany had its iron heel on this stricken
land.”—_Evening Star_, Poughkeepsie, N. Y.
“The only American woman member of that Commission wrote the
book—Mrs. Charlotte Kellogg—after spending eight months on Belgian
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the literary charm of its pages. Learning how these women have
labored, in their mothering of smitten millions, we get from this book
side-lights upon the effects of the war.”—_Richmond Times Despatch._
_12mo, cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.12._
FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY, Publishers
354–360 Fourth Avenue, New York