3¾ m. more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the
Ubaye with the Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The
road, to avoid the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to
a considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La
Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley of
the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the
other goes to the Pass of La Maddalena. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or
14¼ m. from Barcelonnette, is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes;
Italie; 5570 ft., the last French village. 5 m. beyond, or
19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating point of the Pass of
the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the sea, between Mt. Mourre
and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The mule-path on the S.E. side now
descends 850 ft. by the Lago della Maddalena, the source of the Stura,
to the hamlets of Maddalena and Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and
Italian custom-house.
Bersezio.
A little distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24
from Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine
wild scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The
Baths are up a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at
the hamlet of Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio.
8 m. from Vinadio is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with
the stream di Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo,
8422 ft., leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about
25 m. W. from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo,
and 57 from Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to
Cuneo. (For Cuneo, see pp. 182 and 279.)
Gap to Grenoble by
Laye, Corps, and La Mure, 62 m. Diligence to Vizille, the
remaining 8 m. by rail.
From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble,
by Laye, 6½ m. N., where
the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On the summit is a house of
refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques, _Inn:_
H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières,
in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p. 333).
La Mure. Chorges.
23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is La Mure, pop. 3800, and 2860 ft. above the
sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs between La
Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche. There is a large
trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m. distant are the
anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is
Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m.
W. by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is
Laffrey (see p. 333).
26¾ m. from Veynes junction is Chorges, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la
Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to Diana.
In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In and around
the town are fragments of Roman
343
buildings. The chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of
Chorges, is visited by pilgrims.
Savines. Embrun.
34¼ m. from Veynes is Savines, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la
Poste, on the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest
and valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all
the way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is
Embrun, 3014 ft. above the
sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste; 8¾ m. S.E. from
Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of the Romans and
one of their important military stations, is situated on an eminence in
the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S. side of Mont St.
Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous situation stands
the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded in the time of
Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed deep-set windows
with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are supported by flat
buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west end consists of a
flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from the N. side. Above
the portal is a rose window with valuable old painted glass. The N.
portal is within a portico on four columns. The two outer rest on lions;
the two inner, each a cluster of four slender columns, rest on the
shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse with its two apsidal
chapels and part of the adjoining wall are probably the only parts of
the church which date from the time of Charlemagne. The interior is
about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each side of the nave are four wide
spanned early pointed arches resting on massive rectangular piers. Above
each arch is a small roundheaded deeply-recessed window within a
corniced arch resting on colonnettes. Below in the aisles are their
exact counterparts, only about double the size. The roof of the nave is
quadripartite, and that of the aisle semicircular. The high altar and
angels are of white marble. The organ and most of the ornaments date
from the time of Louis XI., who frequently visited this church to pray
to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that white marble image of the Virgin and Child
over the altar fronting the northern entrance. On the inside of the
northern doorway (left hand) are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same
size. It is said that Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to
ride into the church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse
reared, and the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the
animal could proceed no farther.
Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the
centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.
After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun,
with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement,
3¾ m. farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a
bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.
Mont Dauphin. Guillestre. Queyras.
51 m. N.E. from Veynes is Mont Dauphin, an isolated rock of coarse
reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with
344
the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above
the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to
the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on
the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village,
which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From
the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including
Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of
the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.
2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the
village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and
church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil,
passing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to
800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a
cascade. 3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile,
are the fort and village of Queyras, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m.
N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras
Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val d’Arvieux,
reached by a road branching off on the left about 1½ m. below
Château Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets,
St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at
Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is
performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a
week in each parish” (see p. 304, and
_Murray_, p. 216).
Aiguilles.
Abriés.
A little higher up the left or S. bank of the Guil is the
Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18 m. from
Mont Dauphin is Aiguilles, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right
bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½ hrs. walk from
the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and Romanesque church,
the highest village in the valley of the Guil. Although Abriés is a
convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as
headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from Abriés on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house,
where France is left.
For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see
p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont
Dauphin, p. 306; Saluzzo
to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map
p. 304.
Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont
Viso, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a good road extends
21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the valley of the Guil,
5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abriés a mule-path leads
over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte
Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from the Col. 8 m.
beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the
valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on the road to
Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S., to
Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley of the Vraita.
Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m. N.E. from
Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304).
Mont Pelvoux.
45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is La Bessée, 3420 ft. above the
sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. Here passengers alight
for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
345
Val Louise, about 6½ m.
W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see p. 333). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is Briançon (see p. 333). “Nearly opposite La Bessée
to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers
and peaks of the Mont
Pelvoux, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is
visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into
two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des
Arcines, is a mass of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult
pass, called Col de Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise
was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people
having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their
children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its
inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the
officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the
valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing
out their hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire
to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain
in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
valley. The cavern
has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_. The present
inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race.”
—_Murray_, p. 218.
MARSEILLES
GRENOBLE
126
64
ASPRES, pop. 2000, 2493 ft.
above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side
of Rhône (see p. 46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col
de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see
p. 47).
154½
35½
CLELLES, 2400 ft., pop.
1000. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of
Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane,
about 7 m. distant towards Die.
163
27
MONESTIER DE CLERMONT, pop. 1000.
_Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the
kidneys and stomach.
Vif. Vizille.
MARSEILLES
GRENOBLE
177
13
VIF, pop. 3000. At the foot of a
calcareous ridge, which connects Mt. Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt.
Moucherolle, 7509 ft.
181
9
VIZILLE, pop. 4000.
_Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans,
is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche,
with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored and used as a
manufactory (see p. 333).
185
5
PONT DE CLAIX,
pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see
p. 328).
190
GRENOBLE. (See p. 324.)
346
Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.
See fly-leaf, and Map of the
Rhône and Savoy, p. 27.
LYONS
349
PARIS. For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint
Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358.
PARIS
220
129
ST.
GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES. All the trains halt here.
231
118
LA PALISSE, pop.
3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the
town was built in the 14th century.
235½
113½
ARFEUILLES, pop.
3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th
cent.
PARIS
LYONS
262
87
ROANNE, pop. 20,000.
_Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built,
manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin, possessing
many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy
are—the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins
of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit
Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen,
and the annual value of the produce is £1,120,000. After Roanne, the
line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes through a picturesque country
among the Cevennes and their offshoots.
PARIS
LYONS
282
67
FEURS, pop. 4000, on the
Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains
several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the
neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre.
Many Roman remains.
PARIS
LYONS
297½
51½
SAINT GALMIER, pop.
3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of mineral water of
great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and
not utilised on the spot (see p. 348).
St. Etienne.
PARIS
LYONS
312
37
SAINT ETIENNE, 1770
ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; France; both
first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and
frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences
start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East
from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice,
a large handsome building.
This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
summer, was founded by the Romans b.c.
56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the
manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It
is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive
coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne,
Paris, Foy, St. Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing
the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal
squares or “Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is
intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading
northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the
west end, the Post
347
and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street
called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the
Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an artificial grotto.
Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers
of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the
summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a
gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill,
passes the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing
some beautiful glass, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St.
Etienne.
St. Etienne: Museums.
A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS DES
ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The
Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections
of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks,
triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The centre room
upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern. The most
striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.” On one
side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the
other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of
plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the
centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls,
under glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most
remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as simply
very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture
representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by
Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the
lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics
from the looms of St. Etienne.
St. Etienne:
Manufactures.
The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000,
employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which
165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended
for crapes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in
all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields
occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an
average annually £1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long
street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the
Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large
establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high
rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private
gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many
as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade
of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes,
and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street,
the Rue de la Badouillière.
348
Rochetaillée.
_Excursions._—Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with
large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called
the Gouffre d’Enfer. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the
village of Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to
ascend Mont Pilat. A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat,
10 m. from St. Etienne. Thence a path leads to the farm of the
Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where pass the night. Mont Pilat has two
peaks—the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705
ft.
14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft. above the sea (see
p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers
for the town, 1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station.
It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the
foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for
bottling the water. The springs are at a considerable distance below the
surface, reached by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with
masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases.
From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an
omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and
bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.
Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux,
a coach awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the
station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is
supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and
iron.
St. Germains is the station for Vichy
(p. 358).
Paris to Lyons by Tarare.
Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.
LYONS
318
PARIS. This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne.
For time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes
picturesque after Roanne.
Roanne. Tarare.
PARIS
LYONS
262
56
ROANNE. (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is
L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop.
7000, at the foot of a hill 1525 ft. above the sea-level, producing
considerable quantities of muslin, calico, cotton, and linen cloth.
3 m. from Amplepuis commences the tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces
the ridge that separates the basin of the Loire from the Rhône. The
temperature of the Rhône basin in winter is rawer and colder than that
of the Loire.
PARIS
LYONS
288
30
TARARE, pop. 15,000.
_Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and unattractive manufacturing
town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep mountains, among which is Mont
Chevrier, one of the highest summits of the Beaujolais range. At the low
end of the town is the
349
railway station, and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the
valley of the Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95
ft., the others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs
are employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,”
a thin gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.
PARIS
LYONS
318
LYONS (see p.
29).
Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand,
121 m. W. by Givors-Canal, St. Etienne,
Montbrison, and Thiers.
Montbrison.
At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône
change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St. Etienne (p. 346) a long halt is
generally made. A little way up from the station will be found the
steam tram, which, after traversing the best part of the town, returns
to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons and 64½ m. E. from
Clermont is Montbrison on the Vizezy, pop. 6700. _Inn:_
H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings occupy
religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793. Of these
the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent and church
of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”
Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded
in 1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is 206
ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E. end
of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo IV.,”
who founded the church in mccxxiii.
Opposite is the monument to the jurist Vernato, d. mccclviii.
Montbrison: Salle des Etats.
Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des
Etats (house of Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300
by Jean I., Comte de Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de
Persigny from plans by Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed
into the Salle de la Diana (decana), from having been converted into the
chapter-house of the church. It now contains the library of the Diana
society, who also hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft.
wide, and 26¼ ft. high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted
representations of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every
family that has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows
are modern
350
additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
original one.
Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from
Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway is
the station of St. Paul (p. 30).
Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by the
gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the train
traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle by a
viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W.
from Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from
Lyons is
Thiers. Vertaizon. Billom.
Thiers, pop. 16,500, at
first a small hamlet beside a fortress (Tigernum castrum) and a chapel
dedicated to St. Symphorien (see p. 367).
Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues, Vertolaye,
Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p. 89).
Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
Clermont-Ferrand.
1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is
Courty. Junction with line
to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W., passing Vichy, 21½ m.
N.
13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is Vertaizon, pop. 2200, situated 1¼ m. S.
from the station. Junction with branch line to Billom, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_
Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily situated town among hills crowned
with ruins of castles from 12th to 16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th
to 13th cents.
The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach Clermont-Ferrand (see p. 369).
351
Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.
This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire; and
to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See Maps,
pp. 1 and 27.)
MARSEILLES
530
PARIS. Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à
Lyon, and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first
stations passed are Brunoy (p. 2), Melun (p. 2), and Fontainebleau (p. 3). At Moret,
42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes
separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see p. 10.)
PARIS
MARSEILLES
73
457
MONTARGIS, pop.
10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_ Poste; France.
The principal street leads directly from the station to the Hôtel de la
Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about the old castle
are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This castle, rebuilt by
Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants de France,”
became private property in 1809. A house has been built within the
circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway still
stands.
The parish church is of different epochs—the nave and the
aisles belong to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps
higher, to the 16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from
which the groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.
The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
Paris and the south of France.
10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny
was born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst
of the hereditary domain of the family.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
96
434
GIEN, pop. 7600. _Inns:_
Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and an important railway
junction. On the hill rising from the town is the church of St. Pierre,
flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding an admirable view.
Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in 1494 by Anne
de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the Préfecture.
Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent. 38 m.
N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s
_Normandy_).
352
Briare. Cosne.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
102½
427½
BRIARE, pop. 5200.
_Inn:_ H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the Loire,
where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther S.
by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois;
omnibus awaits passengers.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
121
409
COSNE, pop. 7000. _Inns_:
Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town, with ironworks of
considerable importance, and still retaining parts of its old
fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its junction with
the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of which the portal
and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern. 6½ m. farther
S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_ Pointe du
Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the sea. In the
neighbourhood are important quarries.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
138
392
POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE, pop. 3500. _Inn:_
Écu. The surrounding vineyards produce a famous white wine, with a
peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in the second year, and deteriorates
after the 15th.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
141
389
LA CHARITÉ, built on
a hill sloping down from the railway to the Loire, crossed by both a
stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et G. Monarque;
Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of its
fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast
narthex, the choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This
church belonged to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to
the town its name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the
Visitandines (Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of
St. François de Sales.
Pougues les Eaux. Fourchambault.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
150
380
POUGUES LES
EAUX, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du
Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement,
and opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a
quiet place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
carbonic acid gas are employed.
353
PARIS
MARSEILLES
154
376
FOURCHAMBAULT,
pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town,
H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks,
employing above 5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du
Carrousel were cast here. Omnibus at station.
Nevers.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
158
372
NEVERS, pop. 20,400.
_Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du Chemin de
Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short distance
N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is the
nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous, to
which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews with
the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a lingering
illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present pope had
not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio IX.
entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s _South France_, West
Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:— “Ici
repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à
Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En
religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des
Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de
son age et la 12me de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le
lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.”
Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat
at Gergovia (p. 372) the inhabitants
plundered his camp and massacred the soldiers. Of the old fortifications
there remain the tower of the Loire, of which the lower part is of the
11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi, 16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th
cent.; and the Porte du Croux, a square tower of the 12th cent.,
but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an antiquarian museum. At the
entrance into the town by the Paris road is a triumphal arch, erected in
1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy, 12th May 1745, when the
French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch forces under the Duke of
Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a hill rising from the Loire
in the midst of a flat country abounding with iron, giving employment to
important ironworks. In the most elevated part is the Grande Place, with
the Palais de Justice, formerly the Palais Ducal, a stately
edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, but altered
and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his successors, belonging to the
families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in the form of a parallelogram,
flanked with four towers, each containing
354
a staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,”
ornamented with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history
of the house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old
Palais de Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the
Palais de Justice is a fountain by Lequesne.
Nevers: Faïence.
In the Hôtel de Ville are the Library, the Picture Gallery, and an
interesting collection of faïence, which has been manufactured at Nevers
for eight centuries. Faïence is the French term for all descriptions of
glazed earthenware, and corresponds nearly to the English word
“crockery.” The manufacture of majolica or enamelled pottery was
introduced into France by Catherine de Médicis and her kinsman Louis
Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta of Clèves in 1565, became Duke
of Nevers. There are still important pottery works in the town.
Nevers: Cassini.
Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
astronomer Cassini
while engaged in the triangulation of France.
The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père
was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.
32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers
for the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is
hot, and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p. 1.)
Varzy. Clamecy.
Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line
between Paris and Turin (see p. 14). On this branch line, 8¾ m.
N. from Nevers, is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the
important ironworks called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards
of 1300 men. 24¼ m. farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la
Poste; with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents.,
surmounted by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant
triforium and a beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of
St. Eugenie. 44 m. S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers
is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p. 15);
_Inns:_ Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne
with the Beuvron. On
355
the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of Jean Rouvet,
the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from the forests is
floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of St. Martin, 12th
to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by Simart, a handsome
organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos on the high altar.
Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of the Dukes of
Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the prison occupy
one large building.
22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction.
Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p. 24). Branch
to Le Creusot and Autun
(see p. 24).
Saincaize. Moulins.
PARIS
154
SAINCAIZE, 600 ft.
above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W. (See Black’s
_South France_, West Half.)
MARSEILLES
195
335
MOULINS, pop. 22,000.
_Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer; in. the town,
Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along
the banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13
arches, and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral
of Notre Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The
façade, over which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with
colonnettes of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned
with statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration
of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a
prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is
also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the
Palais de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier,
Renaudan and Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of
Henri IV., and one of the bravest marshals of France. He had the
misfortune to draw upon himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the
displeasure of Louis XIII., which
356
led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the 30th October
1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria Orsini,
caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to the
convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the finest
Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture and the
duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the public
library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th cent,
called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving statues, is
mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.
Duke of Berwick. Sterne’s Maria.
Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed
some time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the
Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died
on the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James,
Duke of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James
Duke of York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister
of the great Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of
August 1670, and died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the
works of Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in
Marshal Berwick I have seen what they are.” By the side of the Paris road,
under a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria,
with her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
melancholy. (See Sterne’s _Sentimental Journey_, “Maria.”)
Souvigny.
9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is Souvigny, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix d’Or. At
the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of
Louis II., Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is
that of Duc Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels
are enclosed in a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the
left of the principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of
the Zodiac sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of
the street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of
humble rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to
Bourbon l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de
l’Écu). It stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow
the traveller to cast a rapid glance over this
357
pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and Auvergne architecture of the 11th
cent. (See map,
p. 1.)
Bourbon-l’Archambault Baths.
Bourbon-l’Archambault, pop. 4500.
_Hotels:_ Close to the bathing establishment, the Hôtel Montespan,
on the site of the house which used to be occupied by Madame de
Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds. distant the Hôtel de France. On
a hill at the northern side of this ancient town are the ruins of the
once strong feudal castle of Bourbon, commenced by Louis I. in
1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc Pierre II. Four massive
towers, built of stone, with projecting points, still remain of the
twenty-four which it had originally.
On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In the
centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which, besides
supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for drinking and
domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous, easily digested,
slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr. One-sixth of its volume is
free carbonic acid gas, besides the same acid in combination with lime,
magnesia, and soda; and some salts of bromine, iodine, and iron. It is
eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and tonic, and excellent for
rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula. Between the bathing
establishment and the church is the cold water spring called the “Source
de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, chlorides of
soda and magnesia, silicates of lime, alumina, and soda, the carbonate
of iron and the oxide of manganese. The water is tonic and slightly
laxative.
St. Pardoux Spring.
9½ m. S. from Bourbon is St. Pardoux, in a wooded and hilly
country, forming one of the best drives from Bourbon. There is here a
spring of remarkably sparkling water, ⅚ths of its volume being free
carbonic acid gas. It contains the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and
soda, silicates of lime and alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is
delightful to the taste, very pungent, and, owing to the presence of so
much carbonic acid gas, slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly
diuretic, and stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre
bottles at Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the
height of her power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her
health, and here she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast
off and deserted by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is
Commentry (see map,
p. 1).
From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station
for Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin;
and 41½ m. E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and
map, p. 1).
Dompierre-sur-Bebre, pop. 2230.
_Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal and iron found in this
neighbourhood. The country is undulating and well cultivated. Near the
next station, Diou on the Loire, is the Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds,
founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th cent., and now an agricultural
school.
358
Gilly.
Gilly, station for Bourbon-Lancy, pop.
3300, 8¾ m. N. by the Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station,
fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H. Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for
drives can be had. The village, situated on an eminence, is full of old
houses, of which the best are near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the
valley at the foot of the eminence is the suburb of St. Leger, with an excellent small Bathing
Establishment, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132°
Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime and
magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the water is
the most important, but here it is the external application by baths and
other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of nervous and
cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every form of
rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and furnished
with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of the water
to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by itself, is a
swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled with the
mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is still
carried off by the underground channels constructed by the Romans. At
intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk down to the
bed of the outlet.
On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M. and
Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their
memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the
establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes,
pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½
frs.; for a lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge
for the baths and Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M.
Le Regisseur des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of
considerable interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several
important cities are within a few hours by rail.
A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_
H. de Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal
mines. 6 m. farther is Digoin, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in
the town; at the station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth
cent. Suspension bridge across the Loire.
St. Germain-des-Fossés.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
220
310
ST.
GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G.
H. du Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of
the station is the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix.
7 m. S. from St. Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is
359
VICHY
on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris.
_Hotels:_ The largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the
most elegantly furnished are:—The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.;
the H. Parc, 12 to 20 frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun,
12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.
opp. 359
plan of Vichy
Vichy: Hotels and their Charges.
The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
furniture is not so costly.
The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the
Princes, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the
G. H. Velay et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel,
Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.; and H. de la Restauration. Almost
adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H. Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs.,
a smaller house. In all the above hotels, excepting in the first
three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs. per day. The above
prices include everything except the charge of 1 fr. for candles at
the end of the stay.
Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande Grille,
is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the Etablissement,
the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to 10½ frs.;
and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more
handsome house.
In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National,
*H. d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally
full.
In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally
by the family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise
the Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.
In the Place Rosalie are the Source de l’Hôpital and the Banque
de Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.
In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row of
houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the
church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½
to 10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.;
H. Fénélon; H. du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan
same price.
In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open
all the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse;
H. Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½
frs.; Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the
year—all between the railway station and the Etablissement.
At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel
Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de
Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.
In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near
360
the entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to
9 frs. and the H. Palais-Royal.
There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are
let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service.
Lodgers can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread,
and eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame
resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.
Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before
deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue de
Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently comfortable
without being expensive.
Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information regarding
the different doctors can be had.
Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September, forms
a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels presided
over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to 25 frs. per
day, which includes wine, service, and everything else. The best
situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern end
of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise, 13th
and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous coins have
been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief Vercingetorix, as
well as many Roman objects belonging to all the epochs of the empire. In
1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded Vichy with a moat and
fortified walls, within which he erected his castle; but of it all that
remains is the great clock-tower or belfry.
Vichy: Mineral Water Establishment.
At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
Mineral Water
Establishment, composed of two large buildings—1st, The
“Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths;
a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100
cabinets with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on
the western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the
ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each bath
costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter is
allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs. In
front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring Chomel, is
the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers’ names and for the
sale of the bath tickets.
2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60 c.
each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the quality
of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels supplied. The
baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from the same springs.
The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
361
shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
in a single day. They commence at 3.30 a.m. and continue till 5 p.m., but at one part of the season till even later.
But it must always be remembered that the external application of the
water is not nearly so important as the internal. Patients may visit
Vichy, at any time; but the season suited to follow with success the
course of treatment is from the 15th May till the beginning of October.
The month of May is sometimes rainy. August and September are generally
the driest months, and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from
3 to 4 weeks. The waters are taken in the morning and during the day,
and baths daily or every second day. For elderly people with sanguine
and irritable temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of
the bath should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.
Vichy: Casino. The Vichy Springs.
At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the Casino, a handsome
comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the
building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats for
800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the reading,
billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One entrance
ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every morning,
a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is
attached to the Casino.
The Vichy
Springs.—The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees best
with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain peculiarities
which may assist him to discover the most suitable spring. The maximum
quantity which can be taken daily with advantage is from 24 to 28 oz.
The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz., taken at different times
throughout the day, and not necessarily from the same spring. The water
may with advantage be mixed with the wine taken at dinner. Carafes are
filled at the springs without any charge. In the shops are sold
graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided into three equal parts.
30 grammes equal 1 oz.
The Springs and their peculiarities.—Under the vestibule of
the principal establishment are three important springs—the Grande
Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan).
Vichy: Grande-Grille, Chomel, Mesdames.
The
Grande-Grille, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
362
with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of the
viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
gravel.
The Puits-Chomel, 113° Fahr. The water of this
spring possesses marked anodyne properties, which render it very
valuable whenever the weakened state of the constitution or its
irritability requires to be moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters
it contains the least carbonic acid without being more difficult of
digestion, and as, on the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can
in many cases profitably replace the other springs.
Mesdames, 61° Fahr.,
highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and
in debility following loss of blood. In cases where the constitution has
been weakened without any evident derangement it stimulates the energy
of the digestive functions so as to enable the patient to recover his
usual strength.
The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113°
Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
supplying the baths.
Vichy: Prunelle, Parc, Hôpital, Celestins.
About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
opposite the military hospital, is the Source Prunelle, a cold spring,
recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
A little farther E. is the Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.,
principally employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the Source du Parc, 71° Fahr., recommended for
sluggish action of the digestive organs, atonic derangement of the
intestines, and affections of the bronchial tube caused by chronic
irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the Casino, in front of the town
hospital, is the Source de l’Hôpital or Rosalie, 89° Fahr.,
resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less exciting. It is
recommended to those affected with diseases of the digestive organs,
dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and dysentery; and is
particularly useful to literary men whose digestive functions are
deranged from mental labour. It renders important service in ovarian
tumours and other diseases of females.
A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
important springs, the Sources des Celestins, 54° and 58° Fahr.,
of which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of the
urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able to
digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with either
the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the water of
the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with caution. Just
beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and near the Parc des
Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment. The water, 77°
Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a stimulating
363
action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily eliminated, and
is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids. “Stomach disorder,
attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many cases capable of being
cured or materially relieved by the use of one or other of the Vichy
waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia) and diminished power of
the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases, the Lardy and Mesdames in
others, would be most likely to have a beneficial effect: in other
cases, where a more energetic action is required, the Grande Grille
would be preferable.” —_Dr. E. Lee._
Source Hauterive. Influence of Vichy Water.
3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the Source Hauterive,
57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In therapeutical qualities
it resembles the Celestins.
The
principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty degeneration
or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are so often
connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally serviceable in
enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of hypochondriasis.
Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure of some of the
chronic diseases of women connected with disordered menstruation, and
for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often set in at the period
of life when this function ceases. “The complaint for which nine-tenths
of the English visitors drink these springs is gout; but it should be
distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a specific for gout; it
can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving the tone of the
digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and correcting the
abnormally acid condition of the blood.” —_Madden’s Health
Resorts._ “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have, however,
a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in cases of
either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or internal, acute
or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in the interval of
attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack. If too near the
last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there is almost as
much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its action in a crisis.”
—_Dr. Daumas._ “We may then sum up the effects of a Vichy
course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the digestive and
assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general health. The tone
of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes easier and more
rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The bile flows more
freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if previously present,
ceases. The consequence of these changes is better assimilation, and
therefore flesh is often gained. With the improvement in nutrition the
colour returns to the cheeks and energy to the mind.” —_Dr.
P. James._
364
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS of the Principal Springs.
GG = Grande Grille.
Ch = Chomel.
Md = Mesdames.
L = Lucas.
P = Park.
H = Hopital.
Ce = Célestins.
Hr = Hauterive.
Acids and Bases contained in each litre.
NAMES OF THE SPRINGS.
GG Ch Md L P H Ce Hr
Carbonic Acid 4.418 4.429 5.029 5.348 5.071 4.719 4.705 5.640
Sulphuric „ .164 .164 .141 .164 .177 .164 .164 .164
Phosphoric „ .070 .038 traces .038 .076 .025 .050 .625
Arsenic „ .001 .001 .002 .001 .001 .001 .001 .001
Hydrochloric Acid .332 .334 .222 .324 .344 .324 .234 .334
Silica .070 .070 .032 .050 .055 .050 .060 .071
Protoxide of Iron .002 .002 .012 .002 .002 .002 .002 .008
Lime .169 .169 .235 .212 .239 .222 .180 .168
Strontia .002 .002 .002 .008 .003 .003 .003 .002
Magnesia .097 .108 .134 .088 .068 .064 .105 .160
Potash .182 .192 .098 .146 .151 .228 .163 .098
Soda 2.488 2.536 1.957 2.501 2.500 2.500 2.560 2.368
Totals 7.997 8.043 7.866 8.877 8.687 8.302 8.327 9.039
Saline ingredients
in each litre.
Free Carbonic Acid .908 .768 1.908 1.751 1.555 1.067 1.049 2.183
Bicarb. of Soda 4.883 5.091 4.016 5.004 4.857 5.029 5.103 4.687
„ Potash .352 .371 .185 .282 .292 .440 .315 .189
„
Magnesia .303 .338 .429 .275 .213 .200 .328 .501
„
Strontia .303 .003 .003 .005 .005 .005 .005 .003
„ Lime .434 .427 .604 .545 .614 .570 .462 .432
„ Protox. of
Iron
.004 .004 .026 .004 .004 .004 .004 .017
Sulphate of Soda .291 .291 .250 .291 .314 .291 .291 .291
Phosphate .130 .070 traces .070 .140 .046 .091 .046
Arseniate .002 .002 .003 .002 .002 .002 .002 .002
Chloride of Sodium
.534 .534 .355 .518 .550 .518 .534 .534
Silica .070 .070 .032 .050 .055 .050 .060 .071
Totals 7.914 7.959 7.811 8.797 8.601 8.222 8.244 8.956
The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
slightly from the Célestins.
In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.
Vichy: Drives.
Excursions.
CAB FARES.—The
course within the town from 6 a.m. to
12 p.m. with 1 horse, 1½ fr.; 2
horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first hour, 3 frs.,
and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.; the
day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the
following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day,
25 frs.
Art. 17—The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is
always fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the
entire hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.
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Art. 18.—The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.
For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse,
7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and
back, from Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux,
and Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse,
8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.;
2 horses, 20 frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16
frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2
horses, 20 frs. To Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse,
18 frs.; 2 horses, 24 frs.
Cusset.
Cusset, pop. 6200, on the
Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du Centre, in the
Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At the entrance into
the town is the Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie, a neat
building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked with
turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth, both cold.
The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the afternoon only
1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as those of
Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.
From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take
the road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross,
but walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the
extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into a
miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the prettiest
part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment rooms.
Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually widens and
flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and on the
Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a castle
said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission, 1 fr.
each.
Montagne-Verte. Grivats.
2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a good
view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk in the
neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the cemetery.
Vichy to
Busset by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return
by St. Yorre, where the rail may be taken.
The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of the
Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous for the manufacture of the Toiles
de Vichy, called also Grivats, a variegated cotton stuff used for
gowns and petticoats. The best quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½
fr. the mètre (1 ⅛ yard); the inferior qualities, made chiefly at
Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr. the mètre. At Grivats they are all
made by handlooms in the houses of the weavers. Among the best shops in
Vichy for this article is that of Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de
l’Hôpital.
366
From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country, reaches
the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S. from
Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned slate
quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The
favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the Cascade
du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy rains, are
very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers on the top of
Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive view.
Busset. Randan.
The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this
road. Busset is a poor
village at the foot of a hill, on which is the Château Bourbon-Busset,
built in 1319, but restored since. Admission readily granted. Splendid
view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset, on the E. side of the
Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail may be taken to Vichy,
5 m. N.
Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and the
village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the ruins
of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent, the
Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time required
from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.
Vichy to
Randan.—Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
a.m.; arrives at Randan at 1 p.m.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back to Vichy by
5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is open on
Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by Maulmont
costs 3½ frs.
Vesse-Intermittent-Spring.
The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
hand a small house with the sign Source
Intermittente. In the garden is the very interesting
intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every 6 or 7½ hours, when it
rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of 16 ft. above the surface.
During the irruption, which lasts 30 minutes, the water has a milky hue,
from the quantity of air it contains. Admission, 25 c.
From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of the
stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois
Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame
Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little
chapel, and a large kitchen (see p. 368).
From Randan the road leads due E. through the woods to the hunting-seat
of Maulmont, constructed by Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the
site of an old commandery of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier
is crossed by the suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey
may be made by rail or by the high road along the E. side of the
river.
St. Yorre. Ris. Chateldon.
Vichy to
Thiers by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from
Vichy are the village of St.
Yorre and the Larbaud mineral
367
water establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The
water, which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.
The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon,
5 m. from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the
station the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The
broad road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E. It is a
large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the principal street.
The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles and nave and
semicircular apse.
For Chateldon, 3¼ m.
S.E. from station, take the road that follows the rail southward to
second road left. This village, more interesting than Ris, is situated
in the little valley of the stream Vauziron, surrounded by hills covered
with vineyards. In the “Place” is the principal inn, the H. Camin,
pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach starts for the station, but
not for every train. The house with the mineral water springs is up at
the other end of the village, by the side of the Vauziron.
Maringues is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy
de Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.
Thiers.
23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
Thiers, pop. 16,230.
_Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near each other, and on
almost the same level as the station. Also approached by rail from
Clermont, passing through a mountainous country.
Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.”
At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The manufacture
of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the inhabitants.
The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in the houses of
the workmen, each individual of the family taking the part in the
manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the foot of Mt.
Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers, of the 11th
cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th. From the chancel
a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle to the Margeride.
The church in the high part of the town to the left is St. Jean, 14th
cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St. Jean is St. Genest,
built in about 1020. It has been recently restored. Over the second
altar, left or north of the high altar, is a fresco, 16th cent.,
representing Mary among angels entering heaven. The painted glass is
modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of Escoutoux, where a
pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de la Dore. Excellent
butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest are flat and thin, but
the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the Stilton in shape and colour.
The best of the thin moist cheeses are those of
368
Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From Thiers the
country becomes most picturesque all the way to St. Etienne, the line
winding its way around the steep sides of lofty mountains with roaring
torrents in the deep ravines below. After leaving Thiers it follows the
course of the Durolle to its source. 3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is
the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see below).
Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.
The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to Antoine
Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous Scotch
financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his creditors. The
castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now partially
restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont, is
Aigueperse, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs
between Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy
and the railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of
Charmeil on the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant
afternoon drive.
2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of the
Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and most
imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old houses.
17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on the
Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th
cent.) on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346).
PARIS
224
SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT, 867 ft. above the
sea.
Gannat. Aigueperse.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
235½
294½
GANNAT, pop. 6000.
_Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on the
Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of St.
Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s _Normandy, Brittany, and
Touraine_.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
242
288
AIGUEPERSE, pop.
2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest building is the
Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in a convent of
the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station goes to
Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful castle
of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in
369
1822 by Mme. Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest
of Randan, is another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the
Middle Ages. See under excursions from Vichy.
Riom.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
253
277
RIOM, 1105 ft. above the sea,
pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H. Paris; Poste; Puy-de-Dome. Diligences
to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.; and to
Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is St.
Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each pier
having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is the
same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near St.
Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few 15th
and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge, is
the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.
20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 a.m., are the mineral baths of Châteauneuf, pop. 1000.
_Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier. Water saline. Temperature of the
fourteen springs from 60° to 102° Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of
the liver, neuralgia, nervous affections of the heart, cutaneous
diseases, glandular swellings. Bath, 1 fr.
5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of Châtelguyon,
most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_ Bains;
Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment with every
accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the bowels,
gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp. 100°
Fahr.
3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava. Visit the church,
the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the lava brought from
the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see p. 377).
Clermont-Ferrand.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
260½
269½
CLERMONT-FERRAND, 1335 ft. above the sea,
pop. 43,000, on an eminence crowned by the cathedral, of which the
principal façade, the west entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude,
while the chancel or eastern end is towards the railway station.
_Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are the *Univers; *Poste, for
commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de Jaude are the Paix; France.
All the above are large houses. Near the Académie and the Botanic
Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good house. Among
the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
Voyageurs.
370
Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St. Amand, and
Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a
large cabstand and offices where carriages may be hired for
excursions.
Clermont-Ferrand: Post Office. Cathedral.
The general post
office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side of the
cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there is a
charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem is a
bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue
is the Temple Protestant, service 1 p.m. The first narrow street beyond the post office
leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.
Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the
moist and crystalline (glacé) state.
The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral,
founded in the 9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt
and Volvic lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round
belfry on the N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are
twenty-eight, or, including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled
piers, which rise nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and
immediately above, the triforium, having over each arch a treble window
resting on four fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir
contracts towards the apsidal termination the piers become less massive
and the arches ⅓ narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows
of the nave dates from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete,
having been injured by a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the
apse and in the N. transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the
rose of the S. transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock,
with its three men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th
cent. Ten chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is
a miracle-working image of Mary and Child.
The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
born.
Clermont-Ferrand: Notre Dame Du Port.
The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains.
371
The large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du
Port, built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored
in 866, according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept.
The exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental
friezes, while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns
in mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal
tower.
In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round
the nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their
capitals sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.
Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
Mary.
It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II.
and Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake
the first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an
immediate inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of
God!” which words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits
of the Crusaders.
The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide
Rue Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.
Clermont-Ferrand: Botanic Gardens.
Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable
part is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit
trees and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a
small aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu.
372
Tolerable wine is made at Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and
flat, and does not sit easily on the stomach.
Romagnat.
3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of
M. Rognon, 1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft.,
the site of the principal city of the Averni, which was successfully
defended by Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar,
whom he compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
Les Laumes,
p. 19.)
Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;
or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
Baraque, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.
The Puy-de-Dome
is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater, and is covered
with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough spongy rock
cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of which the
variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named domite. It is
grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often friable, and with
flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed trachyte, in which
the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The most perfect
craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the Nid de la
Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory, connected with
the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are also the ruins
of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a Gallo-Roman
temple to Mercury.
For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by
Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see p. 376. Junction at Clermont
with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty (where change for Thiers),
Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal (see p. 349).
From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the
Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are
very picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le
Cendre, 1145 ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.;
272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164 ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station
is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the town is on the top of an adjoining
hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux, 13th cent.
Issoire.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
282½
247½
ISSOIRE, pop. 6400, and
1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste; Pezissat; opposite
each other in the principal street. It is a clean little town. The
principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a highly interesting
specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
373
exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of
differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
altar.
Le Breuil. Ardes.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
287¾
242¼
LE BREUIL, 1287 ft.,
pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H. Beranger. Coaches await
passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town, 2 m. W.,
and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a hilly
and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain,
a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
2½ m. farther is Ardes;
_Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence rising from the Couze.
In the low part of the village is the church, 11th cent., but restored
and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone cross (1519) with Mary and
Child against it, resting on a demure-looking figure holding an open
book. The valley of the Couze, between high wooded mountains and great
basaltic cliffs, offers an excellent field for geological and botanical
rambles, while the river itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot
of the mountains, through little meadows by the side of the road,
contains excellent trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below
are apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed
among small vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic
formation is between the first bridge and the village of Rentière,
perched on a basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way
beyond, on the right or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff
resembling a statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About
4½ m. up the valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed
by lightning in 1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest
and most imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About
5 m. up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of
St. Pesade.
2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral
waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft.
above the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
clay.
Arvant. Brioude.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
298
232
ARVANT, 1400 ft., a dirty
hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of the Allier. The best of the
inns is the H. Voyageurs.
374
Junction here with the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing
the whole of the interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See
Black’s _South France_, West Half.)
From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences
the loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from
Neussargues, 7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from
Marvejols, is the highest bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit,
which crosses the ravine of the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The
span of the great arch is 541½ ft., and the length of the viaduct
1851 ft.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
304
226
BRIOUDE, 1430 ft. above
the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce. A dirty town on a
tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church St. Julien
(restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade, of red
sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three portals.
The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain buttresses, over
which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the church is another
portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large semicircular
arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns bearing
large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance, but
plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in the
two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
stones.
The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.
Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the
Hôtel de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the
plain.
St. Georges-d’Aurac. Langeac.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
318½
211½
ST.
GEORGES-D’AURAC, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin,
near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for
St. Etienne 54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.)
375
PARIS
MARSEILLES
323
207
LANGEAC, pop. 4800.
_Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the
train passes through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst
vast masses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or
grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark
ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance
while being hurried past in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is
Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The
fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the
rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S.
from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then
follow the stations of Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91);
Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft.
Langogne.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
364½
165½
LANGOGNE, 2940 ft. above
the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly
situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m.
farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La
Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles
to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères,
6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now
passes by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
390
140
VILLEFORT, 1820 ft.,
pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a deep valley at the
foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for Mende, passing
through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.
Bagnols les
Bains, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in
rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
plenty of game on the mountains.
From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous
country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At La Grande Combe, with the two stations
of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines
commence which extend to Alais.
Alais.
PARIS
MARSEILLES
419
111
ALAIS, pop. 22,000, on the
Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like
Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields,
iron-works, and manufactories.
376
This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of
Lozère, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other.
Some very capital wine is made at Alais.
Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to
Teil (see p. 96,
and map p. 56);
also to Laudun,
35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map p. 56).
PARIS
MARSEILLES
450
80
NÎMES (see p. 101, and map p. 66).
467
63
TARASCON (see
p. 66, and map p. 66).
470
60
ARLES (see p.
68, and map p.
66).
499½
30½
ST. CHAMAS (see p. 76, and map p. 66).
512½
17½
ROGNAC (see p.
77, and map
p. 66).
518
12
PAS-DES-LANCIERS.
PARIS
530
MARSEILLES (see p. 111, and map p. 123).
Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard,
122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic
12½ m., Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m.,
Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m.,
Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m., Meymac
73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m.
N.E. from Brive.
Royat.
From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends
the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons.
Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church,
founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was
heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept
is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second.
Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a
crypt supported on six colonnettes.
In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on
consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads
377
down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth
sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are
allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others
are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains.
St. Mart.
The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart.
In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of
the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of
which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the
establishment; temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the
chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and
magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The
charge is from 1½ fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.
Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the
establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains;
Bristol, all large first-class houses. On the road up the left bank of
the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre;
Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m. from Clermont by omnibus, passing
through Chamalières. A great variety of excursions in the
neighbourhood.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
5
117
DURTOL, situated among high
wooded mountains.
Volvic. Pont-Gibaud. Laqueuille.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
12½
109½
VOLVIC. In the neighbourhood
of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct
crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft. Through the gap in the hill in front
of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic
by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le
Puy de la Bannière. The parish church dates from the 13th cent.
Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the principal industries
(see p. 369).
The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St.
Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300,
24 m. distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their
omnibuses await passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are
situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava
from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses
of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.
CLERMONT
MARSEILLES
40½
81½
LAQUEUILLE, 3624 ft.
above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and
for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore
passes through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above
the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule
passes through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.
opp. 378
Environs of
MONT DORE
and LA BOURBOULE
see caption
378
MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS
is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne,
3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._—Considering the style of
their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du
Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered
second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge
as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat;
H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade;
H. Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.
The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the
usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises in
an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source
César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand
end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used at table
mixed with the wine.
Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in
and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are
of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the
more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements
for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.
The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then
2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the
sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
tickets bought at the office of the baths.
379
Mont-Dore: Analysis of the Water.
Contents of the Springs of Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
MdS = Madeleine Spring.
PvS = Pavillon Spring.
RiS = Rigny Spring.
CsS = Caesar Spring.
RaS = Ramond Spring.
BPC = Bourboule, Perrière and Choussy Springs.
MdS PvS RiS CsS RaS BPCS
Free carbonic acid gas 0.3552 0.3810 0.3644 0.5967 0.4997 0.0518
Bicarbonate of soda 0.5362 0.5452 0.5375 0.5361 0.5362 2.8920
„ of
potash 0.0309 0.0309 0.0232 0.0212 0.0212 ....
„ of
lime 0.3423 0.3142 0.3092 0.3209 0.2720 0.1905
„ of
magnesia 0.1757 0.1676 0.1628 0.1676 0.1647 ....
„ of
protoxide of iron
0.0207 0.0235 0.025 0.0258 0.0317 0.0021
Chloride of Sodium 0.3685 0.3630 0.3599 0.3587 0.3578 2.8406
Sulphate of soda 0.0761 0.0761 0.0761 0.0756 0.0737 0.2084
Arseniate of soda 0.00096 0.00096 0.00096 0.0009 0.00095 0.02847
Silicic acid 0.1654 0.1686 0.1653 0.1552 0.1550 0.1200
Alumina 0.0112 0.0094 0.0101 0.0083 0.0065 Traces.
Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters
is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more
abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore. The
temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or 27°
above the hottest of Mont-Dore.
These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases.—Madden’s _Health
Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken
daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite,
and is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this
is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which
frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a
disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication
that the saturation point has been obtained.—Lee’s
_Baths_.
As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm
clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses
costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.
Mont-Dore: Excursions. Queureuilh.
_Excursions._—There are many
pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic
hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at
intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the
dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the
ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these
confused masses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush
and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the
district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance
as well as the way to the different places.
380
One of the first excursions undertaken is to the Cascade du Queureuilh, about
2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls
and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region,
is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guéry (see below),
5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls. The stream, after
rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard
basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists
often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet,
a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile
below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage.
On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.
Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup
1¾ m., and to the Pré du Barbier.
Lake Guéry. Orcival.
The excursion to Lake
Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in
the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road,
just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view
of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le
Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the
Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy. Lake Guéry, one of the
shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W. from the main road,
in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake,
at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the
left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other
clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge
basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant’s Causeway.
4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of Orcival, with an inn and a church of the 9th
and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the
earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante,
a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the
Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.
N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an
extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.
9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
menhirs.
The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m.
E. from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.
From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by Lake
Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a
bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see p. 381).
To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the
cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385).
Pic de Sancy.
The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de
381
Sancy, 6188 ft. above
the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S.
from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary. Good
bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From
the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on
the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft.
To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated
from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte. Shortly after,
the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft. above the sea.
A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne,
descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite
are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to
an old alum mine.
The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of
the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the
infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy
meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here—25 c. charged for
taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20
minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in
circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
the Puy Ferrand,
6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des
Crètes.
Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.
3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor
hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing
a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières,
and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two
places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate
the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m.
from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the
crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft.
long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting
at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are
let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises
the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the
Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of
which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_
Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one
having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the
town is
382
the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted
into shops and dwellings.
Murols.
From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway
between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful
views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor,
and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_ Nierat, pop.
700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have
escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt,
3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important
castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of
Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful
and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the
Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais,
and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the
left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the
sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little
farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop.
1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.
The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is
11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and
Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.
A very pleasant promenade is to the Salon du Capucin, recommended as well as the
Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If
on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee
cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which
enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone
to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du
Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At
last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where
several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to
the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is
quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to
the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about
2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its
name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille
du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.
To go to the Vallée
d’Enfer return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which
leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top
of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where
those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have
to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge
between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the
valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore,
4¾ m. N.
383
Bourboule. Hotels.
BOURBOULE.
8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the
excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
especial virtue—the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at
Mont-Dore.
_Hotels._—Around the principal
establishment, called the Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand
Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de
¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris; ¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne,
by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc;
Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.
At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste;
Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.
Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to
let.
The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with first-class
prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the
room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge
is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with
wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra. Service, ½ to
1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th
of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of
September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in
mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.
The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon
beforehand it will be much the same.
Bourboule: Baths. Charges.
The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses,
of which the most important is the Etablissement des Thermes,
a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of
the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage.
Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement Chaussy
and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of
the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.
In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st
to the 30th September, 2½ frs.
In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the
Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.
The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.
The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour,
384
including the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that
time pays double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.
Bourboule: Springs.
The Springs.
Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and
Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru bathhouse.
They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap the granite,
and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92 ft. The water
pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground, a temperature of 140°
F.
These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are the
springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central, 104°,
mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two springs
Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64° F.), and as
they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others, are drunk with
wine at dinner.
Their Constituents and Effects.
Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of a
gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly one
half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride of
sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
arseniate of soda (see p. 379).
Besides the special uses of these waters arising from the arsenic, their
composition, resembling that of the serum of the blood, makes them
applicable to cases of arrested development, defective nutrition, cases
of slow convalescence, and other forms of general debility. In all
scrofulous affections, such as enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges
from mucous membranes, diseases of the bones, etc., these waters produce
great benefit. But it is more especially in the chronic forms of skin
disease that La Bourboule claims to effect the most remarkable cures,
and chiefly when they arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous
constitution, or as the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form
of pulmonary consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and
chronic bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule
waters.
Bourboule: Excursions.
Bourboule Excursions.
On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that it
is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the
Cascade du Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m.
from Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh,
4½ m. from the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit
of the Puy Gros, 2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from
the village of St. Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of
these places are between Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
385
The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially to
Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid specimens of
basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right or east
bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix path
joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses the
forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of junction,
in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont Bozat. About
1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the Clergue, where
a path descends northwards by the stream passing the Cascade
Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout way,
but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin.
A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
2¼ m. from Bourboule.
On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule
and 4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the
summit of the Puy Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.
Saint-Nectaire.
Mont-Dore to Issoire,
31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m.
Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m.
E. The Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the
Saut-du-Loup and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of
Murols, and traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge,
arrives at Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas, with a large bathing
establishment. _Hotels:_ Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.
N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a
large bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters.
_Hotels:_ Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline,
ferruginous, and stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and
are recommended for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa,
and gout. The specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic
acid gas. In Mont Cornadore are large caves.
The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen of
Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a dolmen,
of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m. distant
the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be ascended;
whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by the stair in
the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with caves,
3 m. from Issoire (p. 372).
386
Continuation of Route—Clermont to Brive.
14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and
68 m. N.E. from Brive, is Eyguirande, pop. 1150. Junction here with
loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m.
S., passing Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West
Half).
31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is Meymac, pop. 3200, on the Lozege. Romanesque church,
tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications. Junction here with
loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to Limoges. (See
_South France_, West Half.)
Tulle. Brive-la-Gaillarde.
16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is Tulle, pop. 15,500, on the Corrèze.
_Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms and coarse woollens
are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called tulle.
122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from
Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is Brive-la-Gaillarde, pop. 12,000, on the
Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _South
France_, West Half).
387
INDEX.
When an Index entry is mentioned on more than one page, the primary
reference is listed first. As in the rest of the text, links are
visually coded; since everything in the Index is a hyperlink, color has
been omitted. Visual details may be overridden by your browser settings,
but the links will still work.
Most Index entries have direct anchors; the rest are linked to the
top of the page. Page numbers in _b_ and _c_ indicate columns
in the printed book; the location of the page number—left or right
margin—depends on columns in the e-text.
A–Ap
Ar–Av
B–Be
Bi–Br
C–Ce
Ch–Cl
Co–Cr
D
E
F–Flavigny
Florence A-N
Florence O-V
Fo–Fr
G–Ge
Gi–Gu
H
I
J
La
Le–Lu
Lyons
Ma
Me–Mons
Mont–Mu
N–Ne
Nice
Nicholas–Ny
O
P–Pi
Po–Pu
Q
R
S–St. N
St. P–San
Saou-Su
T–Turbie
Turin
U
V–Ve
Vi–Vo
W
A–Ap
Abries
344
Acqui 184
Agay 147
Aiguebelle 289
Aigueperse 368
Aigues-Mortes
73
Aiguilles 344
Aime 321
Aix-en-Provence 78, 338
olive oil 79
Aix-les-Bains 283
—— to Geneva by Annecy 286
Alacoque, M. M.
27
Alais 375
Alan 49
Alassio
208
Albenga
208
Albertville 320
—— to
Annecy 320
Albissóla
210
Alesia 19
Alessandria
280
Alise-St. Reine
19
Allègre 89
Allevard-les-Bains 336
Allos 339
Alvernia
279
Alzon 105
Amberieux 281
Ambert 91
Amplepuis 348
Ampuis 81
wine 81
Amyot, Jacques 3
Ancy-le-Franc
18
Annecy 286
Annonay 81
Antibes 169,
154
Antraigues
94
Apricale
201
Aps 97
Apt 66
preserves 66
Ar–Av
Aramon 99
Arenzano
211
Ardèche sketch of
45
—— coaches to 45
—— map of 46
387b
Ardes 373
Arezzo 279
Arfeuilles 346
Arlanc 90
Arles 68, 376
to
Fontvieille 71
to Port Bouc
72
to Port
St. Louis 72
to St. Gilles
72
Arma 207
Arsac 86
Artemart 282
Arvant 373
Aspres 48, 345
Astet 89
Asti 280
Aubagne
122
Aubenas 93
Aups 145,
167
Auribeau
156
Autun 24
Auxerre 14
Avallon 16
Avenza 222