PART I.—PARIS TO MARSEILLES._The South of France—East Half

The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in

the text, though not in the introductory section:

“Those with the figure 1 are first-class houses, with

2 second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are

especially good of their class.”

A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the

text with mouse-hover

popups. Missing “from” or “to” mileage numbers have not been

individually noted.

map of France

SOUTH OF FRANCE

EAST HALF

GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.

SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with

Maps and Plan of Bath. 1s.

TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY, ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with

6 Maps and Plan of the Town of Saint

Helier. Second edition. 1s.

CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.

BELGIUM, including Rotterdam, Flushing,

Middelburg, Schiedam and Luxembourg. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps.

2s. 6d.

NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the Mineral Waters of Contrexéville, Vittel, Martigny,

Plombières, Luxeuil, Aix-la-chapelle, etc. Illustrated with 5

Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d.

TOURAINE, NORMANDY AND BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15

Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.

The above two contain the North Half of

France; or France from the Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of

Biscay to the Rhine.

THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from Marseilles to Leghorn, including Lucca,

Pisa and Florence. Illustrated

with 8 Maps and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.

FRANCE—South-East

Half—including the whole of the Valley of the Rhône in France, with the adjacent

Departments; the Valley of the Upper

Loire, with the adjacent Departments; the Riviera; the Passes

between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of Turin, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Leghorn

and Pisa. Illustrated with numerous

Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.

From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.

“_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that

character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally

acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in which

only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent

observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’

the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity

of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common

mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest

apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._”

THE

SOUTH OF FRANCE

EAST HALF

INCLUDING THE VALLEYS OF

THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE

the BATHS of

VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE

THE WHOLE OF THE

RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN

WITH THE INLAND TOWNS OF

TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA

AND

THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

Illustrated with Maps and Plans

FOURTH EDITION

C. B. BLACK

EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK

1885

_Printed by R. & R. Clark,

Edinburgh._

PREFACE.

This Guide-book consists of

_Routes_ which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt

these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the

Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which

the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from

the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is

printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns

on the main lines.

Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found.

By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact

situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those

given.

The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken

either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the

commencement. The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does

equally well for Marseilles to Paris.

The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the

terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side

of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route

from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either

side from each other.

In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been

taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all

that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession.

Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against

omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be

visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all

the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 p.m. All the

Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays.

When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment

of a franc.

In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For

the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the

Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the

Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly

understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it

safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after

sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even

with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial

influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it

prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within

doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the

sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,

walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with

which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such

exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.

Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;

indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the

railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would

strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his

health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,

to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable

situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in

mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of

climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode

of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in

his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances

requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended

to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others

will demand

vii

even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to

all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution can be

enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate,

a disease of long standing.

“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so

strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have

witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to

deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of

surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in

which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they

left their own country—the recovery of their health. This appeared

to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.

“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of

living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,

exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called

‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping

late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate

promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was

counteracted by the operation of these causes.” —_Sir James

Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate._

SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND

MAP ON FLY-LEAF.

Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay

at some of the baths, such as Vichy

(p. 359), Vals (p. 93),

Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the

eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from

Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch

line extends to Torre-Pèllice

(p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian

valleys.

If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,

a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on

account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp

and bracing.

viii

From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the

baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map,

p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such

as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western

branch by Montbrison (p. 349)

for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern

by Ambérieux (p. 281) and

Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon,

Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble (p. 324), interesting and

picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte,

Ardechè (p. 45) is entered. From

Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres

(pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the roads and railways

diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the

mountain passes between France and Italy.

None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are

travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.

They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great

use.

The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English

cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,

including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of

the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat

breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.;

“café au lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the

hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most

cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he

expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of

bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to

2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage

he expects a gratuity.

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a

stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage

should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others

2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary

Information.”

C. B. B.

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE

OF THE CHANNEL.

The six principal ports on the

French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris

are:—

Dieppe—distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100

m.; Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.;

and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins

de Fer de l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares—1st class,

25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.

London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240

miles):—tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and

London Bridge Station. Fare—1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl.

16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey,

16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest,

Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent,

M. Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie,

20 Boulevard Saint Denis.

From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,

Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105

miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares—1st

class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare

station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.

From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,

Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40

minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at

the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains

by this line.

BOULOGNE—distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;

Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and

Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du

Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares—1st

class, 31 frs. 25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.

London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255

miles):—tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London

Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and

second class. Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40

minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne—1st class, 56s.;

2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in

Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.

CALAIS—185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil,

134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont,

41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of

the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½

hours. Fares—1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.

London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance

283 miles);—departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London

Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second

class, express. Fares—60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to

Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and

examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply

at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.

CALAIS—204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.;

Hazebrouck, 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.;

Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.

18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares—1st class, 36

frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c.

DUNKERQUE—190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,

165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.;

Amiens, 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives

at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares—1st

class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c.

England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk

(screw):—tidal; three times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from

Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.

LE HAVRE—142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.;

Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot,

111 m.; Rouen, 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction,

36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe

and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124

Rue St. Lazare. Fares—1st class, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5

c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly

3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.

London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le

Havre:—Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 p.m. from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton

11.45 p.m. Sea journey, 80 m.;

time, 8 hours.

CHERBOURG—231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167

m.; Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux,

119 m.; Serquigny Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes

Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Time by

express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours.

FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.

On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England, but

the time is more accurately kept.

To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of

luggage free.

Railway Time-Tables.

Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only

official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie,

and sold at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications

there are various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the

“Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the French

railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is furnished with

a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The “Livret-Chaix

Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price 2 frs.

Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at

every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the

time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway

map.

The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the

“Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à

la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the “Chemins

de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at all their

stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.

For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous

les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.

Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of

Belgium.

For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate

d’Italia.” Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours.

Price 1 fr.

In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the

stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres, of

which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means

“arrival”; _Salida_, “departure.”

In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,

Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,

price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.

In the Railway Station.

Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the

index of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain

the fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with

refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each

on its way.

On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people

before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are sold.

Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket, proceed to

the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and deliver your

ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also

“bulletins.”

After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a

luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage office,

where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2 sous.

Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the column

headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your articles

has been given. The French have a strange way of making the figures

3, 5,

xii

and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this office; but remember,

when two or more are travelling together, to present the tickets of the

whole party at the luggage department, otherwise the luggage will be

treated as belonging to one person, and thus it will probably be

overweight. Another advantage of having the entire number of the party

on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case of one or other losing their

carriage tickets, this will prove the accident to the stationmaster

(chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If, after having purchased a ticket, the

train is missed, that ticket, to be available for the next train, must

be presented again to the ticket office, to be re-stamped (être

visé).

The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find

it more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,

having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell the

porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his luggage

ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage again.

On the Railway.

In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway

map, and note the junctions; for at many of these—such as Amiens,

Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.—the passengers are frequently

discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await

other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the

names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,

otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our

railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the direction

required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out, “Voyageurs du

Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon, we may, with

confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the map, we see we

must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway map will be found

very useful, and ought always to be kept in readiness for reference.

_Buffet_ means “refreshment-room”; and _Salle d’Attente_,

“waiting-room.”

There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for

ladies.

Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.

Railway Omnibuses.

At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of

omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished by

the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the Private

Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of the town

for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should the omnibus

be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put down at his

destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to the hotel or

hotels whose name or names it bears.

xiii

CONTENTS.

RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the

SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the MOUNTAIN

PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.

For the whole of the south-east of

France use the time-tables of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à

la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use

the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1 fr. or 1 lira, which gives, besides

the time-tables of the railway trains, those also of the steam-trams,

which traverse the country in all directions.

In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern

Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and

Dover Railway, 3d.

page

PARIS to MENTON by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon, Lyons,

Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles, Toulon, Hyères, Cannes,

Nice and Monaco (see map on fly-leaf)

For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide this long journey

into two parts—Paris to Marseilles (p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122).

PARIS to MARSEILLES1

The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most

interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which

the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good

resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles

should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify

from this great central railway are

La Roche to Les Laumes by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,

Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach awaits passengers for Vezelay,

containing a grand and vast church.

xiv

From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its famous wines, passing

through Pontigny (p. 16), where

Thomas à Becket resided.

Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to

alight at, to visit the source of the Seine.

From Dijon (p. 20) southwards

to Chagny (p. 24)

are the famous Burgundy vineyards.

Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities

in France. At Creusot (p. 25) are

very large ironworks.

Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial (p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said

to have had several interviews with J. C.

Lyons (p. 29), though a

splendid city, ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an

important railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is

Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles

S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station for the

Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From

the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne (p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along the E.

side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See map, p. 27.

Valence to Grenoble, 62 miles N.E.

Valence to Ardèche

Crest to Montelimart

Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and Bourdeaux

Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux is separated

from Dieulefit by a high mountain.

Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E. by Die. This route traverses the

whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map, p. 27)

Montelimart to Grignan, where Madame

Sévigné died

La Croisière to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons is mild and

well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From Nyons another

coach goes on to Serres, 41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles

and Grenoble (map, p. 27).

Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east

Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a great variety of

places in the neighbourhood, among others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).

Avignon to Nîmes by the famous Roman aqueduct called the

Pont-du-Gard

Avignon to the Fontaine of Vaucluse,

where Petrarch lived for some time

Avignon to Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27)

Avignon to Miramas by Cavaillon

Tarascon to St. Remy and Les Baux

Arles to Fontvieille by Mont-Majour.

Arles has magnificent Roman remains

Arles to Port St. Louis at the mouth

of the Rhône

Arles to Port-Bouc, across the

Camargue, by the canal steamboat

76 and 72

Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St. Gilles

and Lunel

Lunel to Montpellier

Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour, which brings water to

Marseilles from the Durance

Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication

by rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns

LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône (map, p. 27)

Peyraud by rail to Annonay, and

thence by coach to St. Etienne

La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the

department of Ardèche (map, p. 46)

The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85)

Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage (map, p. 85)

Le Béage to Le Puy by Le Monastier

(map, p. 46)

Le Puy to Langogne by Pradelles (map, p. 46)

Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges (map, p. 46)

xvi

Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p. 46)

Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and

Ambert (map, p. 27)

Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues.

Coach from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46)

Le Pouzin to Privas (map, p. 27)

Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27)

This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the

interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.

Prades to Langogne by Mayres and

Pradelles (map, p. 27)

Prades to Montpezat. From Montpezat

the source of the Loire (p. 84)

is visited

Montpezat to Le Puy

Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural

bridge called the Pont d’Arc (map,

p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98)

Pont d’Avignon, station on W. bank

of the Rhône, for Avignon

Remoulins to the Pont-du-Gard

Nîmes To Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27)

105

THE RIVIERA.

The Riviera. Hotels, productions, climate

107

Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, excursions

111

MARSEILLES to MENTON. The French Riviera

122

Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the

most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and

diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant

towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp.

124 and 129).

Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place

Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place

d’Italie (p. 128), to Le

Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128).

Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as

Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and

Pierrefeu (p. 130).

xvii

Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or

(pp. 124, 131).

The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant

131

Toulon to Hyères

132

Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,

productions, climate

133

Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana

(p. 141); to Bormes and

Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to

St. Tropez (p. 134); whence

steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144).

La Pauline. Diligence and train to Hyères

142

Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles

and Ste. Maximin

142

Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure

mountains

144

Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences

start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at

these towns with other diligences

145

Cannes to Auribeau, (p.

156), to Cannet, (p. 154),

to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to

Castelaras (p. 156), to

Croisette (p. 154), to Croix

des Gardes (p. 155), to

Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse

(p. 160), to the Iles de

Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins

(p. 156), to Napoule and

Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas

(p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the

Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152).

Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier

and Castellane (p. 165), Digne

to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166).

Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by coach, and thence to Cuneo by

the Col di Finestra

180

Nice to Puget-Theniers and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St.

Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St.

Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165).

182

Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda

182

Savona to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and

Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N.

183

Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a pleasant

walk

185

xviii

Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road

189

Monaco to La Turbie and the Tête de Chien

191

MENTON to GENOA—the western part of the Italian Riviera,

called also the Riviera di Ponente

200

Bordighera, up the valley of the

Nervia, to Pigna

201

San Remo to Monte Bignone

205

GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera,

or the Riviera di Levante

219

Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very easy and interesting

excursion

222

Pisa to Florence by Pontedera and

Empoli (map, p. 199)

227

Pisa to Florence by Lucca, Pistoja

and Prato

227

Lucca to the Baths of Lucca

230

Florence to Vallombrosa

277

Genoa to Turin by

Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey

279

END OF THE RIVIERA.

PARIS to TURIN

281

PARIS to MODANE

281

Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy

286

Modane to Turin

291

Bussoleno to Susa

291

Turin to Torre-Pellice by Pinerolo

305

Torre-Pellice to Mont-Dauphin by the

Col de la Croix

306

Perosa to Mont-Dauphin by the Col

d’Abriés

307

Perosa to Cesanne by the Col de

Sestrières

307

Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin by the Col

de la Traversette

308

Cuneo to Barcelonnette (_see_

Barcelonnette to Cuneo)

341

TURIN to FLORENCE by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna

309

xix

St. Pierre d’Albigny to Courmayeur

by the Little Saint Bernard

320

PARIS to MODANE by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is the

route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the picturesque valleys

about the formidable group of the Ecrin mountains

322

Grenoble to Sassenage

327

Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de

Lautaret. A grand mountain road

328

Bourg d’Oisans to La Berarde, at the

base of the Ecrin group, by Vosc and St. Christophe

329

Briançon to Mt. Pelvoux by La Bessée

and the Val Louise

333,

345

Briançon to Oulx by Mt. Genèvre and

Cesanne

333

Grenoble to Corps by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps another diligence

proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From

Corps the pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette

333

Goncelin to Allevard-les-Bains

336

MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban, Sisteron,

Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map, p. 27)

338

St. Auban to Digne

339

Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie

and Seyne (map, p. 304)

339

Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix,

Colmars and Allos

339

VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE station, 51 miles N.E. by

rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of several of the

important passes between France and Italy

340

Gap to Barcelonnette

341

Barcelonnette to Cuneo (map, p. 27)

341

Gap to Grenoble by Corps (map, p. 304)

342

Mont-Dauphin to Saluzzo (map, p. 304)

344

Paris to Lyons by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27)

346

Paris to Lyons by Tarare (map, p. 27)

348

Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by

Montbrison (map, p. 27)

349

Paris to Marseilles by

Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map on

fly-leaf)

351

Moulins to the Baths of

Bourbon-l’Archambault by Souvigny and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1)

356

Moulins to the Baths of

Bourbon-Lancy by Dompierre and Gilly. Beyond Gilly is

Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1)

357

St. Germain-des-Fossés to Vichy

359

Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by

Laqueuille

376

Laqueuille to the Baths of Mont-Dore and

Bourboule

377

Mont-Dore to Issoire by the Baths of

St. Nectaire

385

A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude railway station.

xxi

MAPS AND PLANS.

Some full-page maps have been moved to avoid breaking up paragraphs. All

links, both here and in the body text, lead to the map itself.

Map references in the text are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy”

map was printed twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of

Maps it is given as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as

“page 27” and “page 26”. “Map. p. 199” and “p. 200” both refer

to the Italian Riviera map, also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map

of Hyères (p. 129) is twice cited as “p. 177”.

page

Ardèche, general map of, including the northern part of the

department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire

This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the

Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,

Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.

Arles, a town of great interest

Avignon, Plan of

Bologna, Plan of

316

Cannes, Environs of

155

Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.

Cannes, Plan of

149

Corniche Road

185

Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as

well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice

and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the

railway.

This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and

Menton.

Dijon, Plan of

Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes

146

Florence, Plan of

234

The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza

Michelangiolo.

Galleria degli Uffizi

237

The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both

sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi

straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace

by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.

Genoa, Plan of

214

Hyères, Environs of

129

As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the

environs of both towns are given on the same map.

Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn

199

Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The

French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts

on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to

Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”

Leghorn, Plan of

226

Lyons, General plan of

xxii

Lyons, Partial plan of

Marseilles, Plan of

113

Marseilles to Cannes

123

This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and

in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which,

from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side

are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which

the largest is Porquerolles.

Mont Cenis railway, Plan of

291

This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to Turin by Modane

and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to Albertville; whence coach-road to

Courmayeur by Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.

Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake Annecy.

Mont-Dore and Bourboule, Map of environs

378

Nice, Plan of

171

Nîmes, interesting Roman ruins

101

Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the

S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,

Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to

the N.

Pisa, Plan of

224

The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided

to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo

or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the

cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain

over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.

Railway Map

_Fly-leaf_

This map shows all the railway routes in France and their correspondence

with the railways in Belgium, Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and

Spain. Also the railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the

Rhône.

Rhône and Savoy

107

This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the

railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes

between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.

Savona to Rapallo

211

Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano,

Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.

The Durance to the Var and San Remo

163

This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior,

approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice.

From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.

xxiii

The French and Italian Waldensian valleys, with the

mountain-passes between them

304

The high volcanic peaks in the department of Ardèche; among

which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire

The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the

railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence

200

The Mouths of the Rhône

Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this

neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,

Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from

the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see

pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is

the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66).

The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance, in which

are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,

Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest

Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale

107

Toulon, Environs of

129

This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small

steamers sailing from the port.

Troyes, Plan of

Turin, Plan of

293

Vichy, Plan of

359

CARTE DU JOUR.

The following List contains the

explanation of the technical terms of some of the most useful dishes

mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the restaurants. Fancy names cannot

be translated.

The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may

require added salt.

SOUPS.

_Consommé_, beef-tea.

_Bouillon_, broth.

_Potage_, soup.

_Julienne_, vegetable soups.

_Purée_, pease-soup.

_Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,” as—

_Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes.

„ „_marron_, mashed

chestnuts.

BEEF.

_Bœuf au naturel_, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.

_Naturel_ in cookery means “plain.”

_Bœuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots.

Nearly the same as the next.

_Bœuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables.

_Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef.

_Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables.

_Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices.

_Sauté_ in cookery means “sliced.”

_Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes.

In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to

_pommes_.

_Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak.

„ _aux pommes_, with

potatoes.

„ _aux pommes sautées_, with

sliced potatoes.

„ _aux haricots_, with kidney

beans.

„ _bien cuit_, well done.

„ _saignant_, under done.

_Palais de Bœuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate.

_Au gratin_ in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied to

potatoes it means “browned.”

xxiv

MUTTON.

_Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops.

„

„ „ _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs.

„ „ „ _aux

pointes d’asperge_, mutton chops with asparagus tops.

„ „ „ _à la purée

de pommes_, mutton chops with mashed potatoes.

_Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton.

_Pieds de mouton_, sheep’s trotters.

_Gigot d’agneau_, a leg of lamb.

_Blanquette d’agneau_, hashed stewed lamb.

_Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys.

„ _sautés_, sliced

kidneys.

_Etuvé_, stewed.

VEAL.

_Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet.

_Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf’s head with oil and

vinegar.

_Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf’s ear.

_Ris de veau_, sweetbread.

_Foie de veau_, calf’s liver.

_Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal.

_Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy.

_Jus_, gravy.

VEGETABLES.

_Pommes de terre_, potatoes.

_Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits.

_Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce.

_Chou_, cabbage.

_Champignons_, mushrooms.

_Epinards_, spinage.

_Fêves de marais_, garden beans.

_Haricots verts_, green kidney beans.

_Oseille_, sorrel.

_Petits pois_, green peas.

_Jardinière_ means “dressed with vegetables.”

POULTRY AND GAME.

_Poularde_, fowl.

_Poulet_, chicken.

_Chapon_, capon.

_Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken.

_Des œufs à la coque_, boiled eggs.

_Dindonneau_, young turkey.

_Canard_, duck.

_Perdreau_, partridge.

_Mauviettes_, field-larks.

_Alouettes_, larks.

_Grives_, thrushes.

_Becasse_, woodcock.

_Becassine_, snipe.

_Chevreuil_, venison.

_Caille_, quail.

FISH.

_Anguille_, eel.

_Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.

_Homard_, lobster.

_Huitres_, oysters.

_Merlans_, whitings.

_Morue_, cod.

_Raie_, skate.

_Saumon_, salmon.

_Sole_, sole.

_Turbot_, turbot.

_Frit_, fried.

_Grillé_, done on the gridiron.

DESSERT.

_Compote_, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”

„ _de pommes_, stewed

apples.

„ _de pruneaux_, stewed

prunes.

_Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters.

„ „

„ _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters.

_Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds.

DRINK.

_Vin de Bordeaux_, claret.

A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines

ought always to be drunk with it, or with common water.

At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying a

little extra.

_Frappé_, applied to liquids, means “iced.”

_Caraffe frappé_, iced water.

_Vin frappé_, iced wine.

The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a

_choppe_.

The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_,

a word often used in the cheap restaurants.

Paris to Marseilles: Itineraries

Paris to Marseilles: Maps

Paris to Marseilles: Text

General Index

ITINERARY

(pages 1–106)

page

PARIS to MARSEILLES

The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the most

interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood of Paris, of which

the most important is Fontainebleau. Dijon and Macon are good

resting-places. Lyons is the largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles

should, if possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify

from this great central railway are

La Roche to Les Laumes

by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a

coach awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and vast

church.

From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis

(p. 14), with its famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where Thomas à Becket

resided.

Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at,

to visit the source of the Seine.

From Dijon (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are the famous Burgundy vineyards.

Chagny to Nevers by Autun, Montchanin and

Creusot. Autun (p. 24) is one of the most

ancient cities in France. At Creusot

(p. 25) are very large ironworks.

Macon to Paray-le-Monial by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial

(p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had several

interviews with J. C.

Lyons (p. 29), though a splendid city,

ought to be avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important railway

junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles

S.E. by Rives, Voiron and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station

for the Grande Chartreuse

(p. 323). From the station of St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½

miles S.W. by St. Etienne

(p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail

from Lyons along the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and Arles

(p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes

(p. 101). See map, p. 27.

Valence to

Grenoble, 62 miles N.E.

Valence to

Ardèche

Crest to

Montelimart

Crest to Dieulefit by Saou and

Bourdeaux

Saou is an ancient village curiously situated.

Bourdeaux is separated from Dieulefit by a high

mountain.

Crest to Aspres, 57 miles E.

by Die. This route traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme

(map, p. 27)

Montelimart to

Grignan, where Madame Sévigné died

La Croisière to Nyons, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate of Nyons

is mild and well suited for those who leave the Riviera early. From

Nyons another coach goes on to Serres,

41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble

(map, p. 27).

Sorgues to Carpentras, 10½ m. east

Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for

visiting a great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among others

Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).

Avignon to Nîmes by the

famous Roman aqueduct called the Pont-du-Gard

Avignon to

the Fontaine of Vaucluse, where Petrarch lived for some time

Avignon to

Manosque by Apt (map, p. 27)

Avignon

to Miramas by Cavaillon

Tarascon to

St. Remy and Les

Baux

Arles to

Fontvieille by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent Roman

remains

Arles

to Port St. Louis at the mouth of the Rhône

Arles to

Port-Bouc, across the Camargue, by the canal steamboat

76 and 72

Arles to Aigues-Mortes by St.

Gilles and Lunel

Lunel to Montpellier

Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour,

which brings water to Marseilles from the Durance

Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence. Aix has communication by

rail and by coach with very many of the neighbouring towns

LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of

the Rhône (map, p. 27)

Peyraud by

rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to

St. Etienne [pg. 354]

La Voulte to Le Cheilard, the chief diligence centre in the

department of Ardèche (map, p. 46)

The road to the source of the

Loire (map, p. 85)

Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Béage (map, p. 85)

Le Béage to

Le Puy by Le Monastier (map,

p. 46)

Le Puy to

Langogne by Pradelles (map,

p. 46)

Le Puy to

Langeac by St. Georges (map,

p. 46)

Darsac to Chaise-Dieu (map, p.

46)

Chaise-Dieu to Thiers by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27)

Langeac to Monistrol and to Saugues. Coach

from Monistrol station to Le Puy (map, p. 46)

Le Pouzin to

Privas (map, p. 27)

Teil to Alais, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27)

This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals and the

interesting volcanic mountains in the neighbourhood.

Prades to

Langogne by Mayres and Pradelles (map,

p. 27)

Prades to

Montpezat. From Montpezat the source of the Loire (p. 84) is visited

Montpezat

to Le Puy

Ruoms to Vallon and the fine natural bridge

called the Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98)

Pont

d’Avignon, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for Avignon

Remoulins to the

Pont-du-Gard

Nîmes To

Millau by Vigan (map, p. 27)

105

MAPS AND PLANS

(pages 1–106)

page

Ardèche, general map of, including the northern part of the

department of Drôme and the southern of the Haute-Loire

This map contains a large part of the valleys of the Rhône and the

Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage, Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon,

Valence, La Voulte, etc., the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.

Arles, a town of great interest

Avignon, Plan of

Dijon, Plan of

Lyons, General plan of

Lyons, Partial plan of

Nîmes, interesting Roman ruins

101

Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg and Geneva, situated towards the

S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg, Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen,

Lucerne and Interlaken to the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to

the N.

Rhône and Savoy

107

This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France, with the

railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon. The Railroads and Passes

between France and Savoy. The French Riviera.

Map appears on page 27 in this section.

The high volcanic peaks in the department of Ardèche; among

which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the source of the Loire

The Mouths of the Rhône

Showing the position of the canals and of the great lakes in this

neighbourhood. The principal towns are Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence,

Arles, Avignon, Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from

the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from Marseilles (see

pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther down the Durance is

the commencement of the Craponne canal (p. 66).

The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance, in which

are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St. Esprit, Orange,

Carpentras, Vaison and other places of interest

Troyes, Plan of

PARIS to VICHY, MACON, BOURG, GENEVA &c.

see caption

THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.

Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice, Monaco and Menton, 692

miles.

PART I.—PARIS TO MARSEILLES.

By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon,

537 miles.

Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London

to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of

the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their

London office.

MARSEILLES

537

PARIS. Start from the station

of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where

purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely

trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of

the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the

H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules

César.

_Maps._—For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as

Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the

journey, map page 26. The fare, third class, from

London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast

Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons

Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the

Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 a.m.,

and arriving next day at 5.33 a.m.

From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 a.m. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 a.m. From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32

a.m., and arrives at 10.13 a.m. The third-class carriages between Paris and

Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with

warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the

winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey,

but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every

break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the

most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night.

By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in

18¼ hours for £4:13:6.

The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the

Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne,

which here joins the Seine. Charenton, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a

large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. St. Maurice, pop. 4300, has

in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for

animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library,

museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of

grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the Maisons-Alfort, pop.

8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some

time.

Villeneuve St. George. Melun.

9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St.

George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères,

a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther

is Montgeron on the

Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor

of Henri IV.

On the other side of the river is the village of Crosne; where on

the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas

Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the

first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his

contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English

literature.

13¾ m. from Paris is Brunoy,

pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of

France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy.

The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches

104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of

MELUN, pop. 12,000.

_Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near

St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante.

Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine,

and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which

here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names

of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.

Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway

station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the

left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the

church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower

over each transept, 10th cent. The large building

behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the

Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the

main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St.

Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed

gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed

square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short

spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8

windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is

the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in

the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514,

“Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me

siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of

ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome

fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry

St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,

the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the

north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent

pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the

Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard.

From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,

where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.

Fontainebleau.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

500

FONTAINEBLEAU

pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station;

but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour

du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front

the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon;

Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande,

is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des

Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie.

In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are

the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels

facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13

frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan

is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the

end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded

with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and

photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good

confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had

either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the

train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the

restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the

Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.

Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.

_Coach Tariff._—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the

Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the

forest in the shop opposite.

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the

day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10

frs. for the day.

Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following

prices:—

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for

the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.

A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour

3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.

A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an

hour.

Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.

Fontainebleau deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but

to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which

cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads

and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by

congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each

bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.

The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of

the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval

Blanc,” which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is

expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not

obligatory.

To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite,

procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The

“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes a

smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the household,

but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in showing the

Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give will be found in

the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.

The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by

Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former

edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists. Henri

IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the buildings and

gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of Diana and the

gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon it, and Louis

XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large sums.

Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapelle de la Trinité.

The principal entrance is at the west

end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courts,

measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is also called the Cour des Adieux, because

here Napoleon I., forsaken by nearly all his generals, took leave,

on the 20th of April 1814, of the ever-faithful soldiers of his Old

Guard, from whom he tore himself away amidst sobs and tears, and threw

himself into his carriage. On the 19th of March 1815 he was back again

in this palace from the island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine

joy through the splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and

his wretchedness.

As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the

following abridged list should be read before entering.

The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which has

46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars in

the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place

entered is the Chapelle de la Trinité, built by

Francis I. in 1529, and largely

decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish ambassador having

remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if the Almighty were

as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was married in this chapel.

The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was pronounced in it; and

here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The paintings are by

Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and Marie de Médicis and

Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the reign of Louis XIII. by

Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues on each side of the

altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The

magnificent angels, which support the escutcheons of France and Navarre,

are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze angels are by G. Pilon.

Fontainebleau: Apartments of Napoleon.

Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first

room is the Antichambre des Huissiers (ushers), painting by

Brenet, 1785. Cabinet des Secretaires, paintings by Vanloo,

Doyen, and Hallé. Pass now through a small passage, painted with flowers

by Spraendonck, to the most charming Salle des Bains. The walls

are of plate glass, on which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely

colours, cupids, birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the

Abdication Room, containing the famous mahogany table, about a

yard in diameter, on which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April

1814. Walls hung with rich embroidered satin from Lyons. Cabinet de

Travail (study) of the Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob.

Painting on ceiling represents law and justice. Bedroom of

Napoleon I. and III. Bed restored under Louis Philippe, and hung

with silk velvet from Lyons. Round the wall grisaille paintings of

cupids, admirable imitations of relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from

Pio VII. to Napoleon. Salon de Famille or Salle du Conseil; dates

from François I. and Henri IV., and made by Louis XV. his

study. In centre of room mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, one

piece. The 20 red and blue symbolical paintings round wall are by the

two Vanloos. On ceiling arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered

with Beauvais tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV.

Throne-room. Built by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV.,

to which Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of

France used to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently

gilt and painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of

Louis XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.

Fontainebleau: Apartments of Marie Antoinette.

APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and

of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of

the panels on green ground. On console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases

presented to Napoleon I by the Emp. of Austria. This room was

fitted up for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who forged, but did not

finish, the window bolts (espagnolettes). The Bedroom. Occupied

successively by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette,

Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The

gorgeous drapery and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie

Antoinette by the city of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage.

Wall hung with the richest satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by

Riésener. Clock of Louis XVI. Salon de Musique. Ceiling, Minerva

and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Over door the Muses painted in

grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon,

from which a door opens into the

GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling,

divided into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing

mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the

sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated on

the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second

daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the room

immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in

parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then fell on

his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by Christina,

and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the murderers

thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut off the crown

of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made him fall to the

ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour. Throughout all

this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud with all his

might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he was buried,

near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the

chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s

chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her secrets. The

Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore the Queen to

spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and beseeched her, in

the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the unhappy man, she

replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that many had been

condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as this

coward.”

At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with

indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the

goddess Diana.

We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes by

C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes,

1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not

shown (see page 8). The other leads into

Fontainebleau: Salons de Francois I., Louis XIII., St. Louis. Salon Des

Gardes.

LES

GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in

gilt compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des

Tapisseries hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves

of Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress

Eugenie. Salon de François I. Napoleon I. and Charles

X. used it as their dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling.

The Flemish tapestry represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of

chimney-piece fresco by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets

are of the 15 and 16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable

Beauvais tapestry. Salon de Louis XIII. The small Venetian

looking-glass, one of the earliest manufactured, and the first that came

to France, indicates the place where the bed of Marie de

Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was born. The paintings on the ceiling

and on the walls represent the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which

had been translated from the Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to

Francis I. Beautiful marble chimney-piece. Salle de Saint

Louis. Over chimney-piece equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV.

by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of

Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777. Salle des Gardes, principally

by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above

the five real and mock doors are portraits of Francis I., with the

allegorical figures of Might and the Fine Arts; Henri II., with

figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of Henri

IV.), with

figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., with figures of Peace and

Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful

chimney-piece by Jacquet, 1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust

of Henri IV., and at each side statues of Might and Peace by

Francarville. A very pretty little room, with floor of inlaid wood,

corresponding in design with the ceiling, leads to the

ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis

XV., was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes,

representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo

dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.

GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent

hall in the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted

on one side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other

by the same number looking to the gardens. It was built by

François I., and decorated by Henri II. for his favourite

Diane de Poitiers. The walls are covered with frescoes between gilt

coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by

Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut, is divided into 27 compartments,

elaborately ornamented with scrolls, mouldings, and friezes, all richly

gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of Henri II. and of Diana. The

chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered with fleurs-de-lis, is by

Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances into the

chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed (see page 8). We return

now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the

GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon,

210 ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a

communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.

Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect. The

frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso, but a

few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I.

From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the

APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were

inhabited by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis

XIV.), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also

by Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of

Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by

Napoleon III. for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were

expected to have visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest

quality from the Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel,

Mignard, and other French masters. Antechamber. Portrait of Diana

de Poitiers as the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best

works. Cabinet (Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed

leather. Furniture covered with Cordova leather. Salles des

Officers. Hung with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of

Esther. Salon. Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins.

Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into

compartments bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII.

The Old Bedroom (see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis

XIII. Table in mosaic given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very

beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. Study of Pio

VII.—portrait of him by David. Dressing-room—wardrobe of

inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV.

by Lemoyne, 1751. New Bedroom—bedstead of time of Louis

XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. Salon de

Reception—Gobelins tapestry—furniture of time of Louis

XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. Waiting-room or Salle d’Attente.

Gobelins dating from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.

Antechamber. 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.

Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.

GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this

gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise

Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and

some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the

walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and

incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading

to the

SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and

seated for 400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of

Charles VIII., adorned with a statue of him in stucco.

Fontainebleau: Chapelle de St. Saturnin.

LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.

Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin,

built by Louis VII. after his return from Palestine, and consecrated by

Thomas à Becket in 1169. The painted glass of the windows was

manufactured at Sevres from designs by the Princess Marie, 1836,

daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar is the same at which Pope Pius

VII. performed mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814.

The lower chapel was reconstructed in 1545 by Francis I., upon

which he built the Upper Chapel. It was ornamented with charming

frescoes, in the reign of Henri IV., about the year 1608.

Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.

Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à

Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same

dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the

right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.

Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the Galerie de

Diane, ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently

executed. It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6).

Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round

with pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by

J. B. Oudry.

Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,

saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than

that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the

revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such cruelties.

The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble pupils of St.

Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see p. 7).

The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection

of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial permission.

THE

COURTS.

From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe

staircase, leads through to the Cour de la Fontaine. In the side

facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through

the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have before

us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left

the Porte Dorée, one of the gates that opens into the Cour

Ovale. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes

on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects

are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539. And

by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau, driven

from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left we pass

the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses,

faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is

the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal entrance

to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.

At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected

with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri

IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the artillery

college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The gateway is

grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing particular.

Fontainebleau: Drives in the Forest.

Excursions into the forest. Those

wishing to walk should provide themselves with a pocket compass and a

copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the

posts painted red indicate the way back to the town; the black posts

lead in the other direction. The coachmen are acquainted with all the

roads. The artistic part of the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The

following are the three principal drives, each requiring 6

hours:—

1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie—Point de vue du camp de

Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle

Vue—Barbison par le Bas Bréau—Gorges d’Apremont et

Franchard.

2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle—Mont Ussy—Caverne

d’Augas—Vue sur le champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet—Gorges

et Rochers de la Solle—Rocher St. Germain—Bocages des

Ecouettes—Fort l’Empereur—Calvaire—Roche Eponge et

Point de vue de Nemorosa.

3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups

et Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix

du Gd. Maitre.

The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole

forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from

Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second

contains the best places for obtaining good general views of the forest,

such as from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but

especially from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The

Gorge aux Loups in the 3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very

picturesque part called the Long Rocher. If only one drive can be taken,

take the first, 3¼ m. by rail from Fontainebleau.

After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous

grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls and

trellis-work.

Moret. Jean Sans Peur.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

495

MORET, pop. 2000. _Inn_:

Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of

fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates Paris and

Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is principally

of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th. 7½ m.

farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of the

Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.

Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a

mile from the town. _Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops,

near the post office. Those who may require to wait for a train at this

junction, should, if time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town

and visit the parish church, with its handsome columns gracefully

ramifying into the groining of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the

right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone

bridge, or rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne,

which here unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian

statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble

slab indicates the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On

the steep hill overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of

Surville. Montereau has important potteries.

Sens. Thomas À Becket.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

466

SENS on the Yonne, pop. 12,400.

_Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street, the Rue Royale, extends from

north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and going southwards

up the street, we have first the statue of the chemist Thénard, and then

the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch erected in honour of

the Duchess of Angoulême, when she visited this city in 1828. Behind are

spacious boulevards, which, together with the promenade, form agreeable

walks.

The Cathedral of St. Etienne was commenced in 972, but nearly

rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without beauty,

is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a belfry

attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating with

massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed

arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered

colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured

canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a beautiful

relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien, first bishop

of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining chapel is the

mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by G. Coustou, and

statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next or 3d chapel,

Becket used to officiate.

The picture on the wall by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination.

He stayed, 1166, in the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the

cathedral. It is now occupied by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The

transepts are lighted by superb glass; but the best window is the second

to the right on entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean

Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble,

stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old

house adjoining the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient

evidence to prove that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory

crucifix by Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th

century, and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is

valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St. Vincent

de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon. Adjoining

the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored by Violet le

Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the church, and

to the left of the high road. The only portion of the present buildings

that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel to the Abbey Church.

When in France, he lived chiefly in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny,

7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16,

and 13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14.

Becket was assassinated at the foot of the altar of St. Benedict

in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and canonised two years afterwards.

Down to the Reformation pilgrimages were made to his shrine by devotees

from every corner of Christendom. Every 50th year a jubilee was

celebrated in his honour.

Troyes.

plan of Troyes

41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop. 39,000. _Hotels_: At the

station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal street, the Rue Notre Dame,

the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel

des Couriers.

Troyes: Cathedral.

Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,

canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the

machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen, which

produce an annual average value of about two million pounds sterling.

Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches, of which the

most important is the Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul,

situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station being on

the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most beautiful

in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished till the

end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of these

intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th

century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th. Three

hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower rising

above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and the

transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the nave,

separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the front row

being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty clerestory,

both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The height of the

roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The glass of the

windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and over the

western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The marble

statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of choir, are of

the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in wood, of the 17th

cent.

Troyes: Henry V.

Salle Simard.

Before the high altar in this church Henry V. of England was affianced to the

Princess Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. of France, on the 20th

May 1420. Next day the famous treaty was signed, which secured the crown

of France to Henry by the exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the

poor mad Charles VI. should cease to live. Behind the high altar in

the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the

oldest glass in the church. A stair to the right of the high altar

leads to the treasury, of no great interest. It contains croziers of the

13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of

the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In

the reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,

St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few

yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the

_Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS.,

in a large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled

panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St.

Paul’s Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the

Museum, or picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel,

Mignard, etc.; and the _Salle

Simard_, containing a valuable collection of the Models made

by Simard for his statues and works in relief. Also some statuary by

Girardon, and other French sculptors. The museum is open to the public

on Sundays and feast-days from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is

expected. A short distance eastward from the cathedral is the

Hospice, and a little beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the

window of the sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the

16th century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic

architecture, the church of St. Urbain, built by that Pope

towards the end of the 13th century. The high altar occupies the place

where his father used to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was

that of a cobbler. A short way N. is St. Remi, 14th century,

with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St.

Urbain, by the Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_,

built according to the plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished

1670. Beyond is St. Jean, 14th century. The high altar was

sculptured by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord,

forming the reredos of the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel

“O Sacrum Convivium,” are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean,

pass up northwards by the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the

first division is the Post Office; and at the end of the next division

is La Madeleine, commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable

for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in

1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period.

The nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic

architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West from

St. Jean is St. Nicolas, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To

the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary

containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue

of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the dead.

Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on

entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are

beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel

of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups. The

glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on consoles

give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.

South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its

continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.

Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of

the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village and

church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west portal,

constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and ornamented by

Gentil.

Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we

have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for

two, 2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.

Troy Weight.

The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the time of

the crusades, and first adopted in this city. Troyes was the

headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in 1814.

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

458

VILLENEUVE-sur-yonne, pop. 5100. _Hotel_:

Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer”

spent some days while on his way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to

its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or

84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_:

Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but

possessing a fine church, of which the greater part of the choir, as

well as the S. and N. porches, belong to the 13th cent., and the

remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th cents. Overlooking the town,

and distinctly seen from the station, is a ruined chapel belonging to

the 13th cent.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

446

JOIGNY, pop. 7000. A good

resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between the station and the

bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne,

which is the principal promenade. The most important part of the town

occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which are situated St.

André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.; and St.

Thibault, 15th cent.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

441

LA ROCHE, on the Canal

de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon and the Yonne. Large

refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les Laumes, 79½ m.

southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon,

and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)

Auxerre.

LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.

12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the hill

rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the most

prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain, to the

left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or Clock

Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, St. Etienne, was

rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over the

western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are

crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and

of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and the

vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet high.

The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.

transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.

Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in the

13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St.

Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in the

17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated tower,

173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the 16th and

finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.

Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the 12th

cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the

capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around

the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk is

a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and

Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)

13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on the Serein.

The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the well-known white

wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur, Vauxdésir,

Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality of the

vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty

flavour.

Cravant, pop. 1000,

_Inn_: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly a mile from the

station, owing its importance to its position at

the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les Laumes, 56

miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and 116 miles

from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)

Sermizelles. Vezelay.

37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les

Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles

distant), for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the

station there is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a

private vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont

Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then

back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.

Vezelay, pop. 1300.

_Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed town on the top of

a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in France,

the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex

belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the

choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of the building is

404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior is unadorned, and

supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of

the western entrance are enclosed by a wide expanding circular arch with

four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large window with boldly sculptured

mullions. Within the doorway is a spacious narthex, of which the

triforium is filled with antiquities connected with the monastery which

adjoined the church. To appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity,

and harmony of this vast edifice it is necessary to have the door

between this narthex and the nave opened. The nave and aisles are

lighted by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on

forty semicircular arches springing from massive piers, with attached

columns ornamented with the peculiar capitals of their period.

A triforium runs round the transept and choir. Eleven circular

columns, of one stone each, support the arches which enclose the

sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door opens into what was

formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th cent. The cloister

is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also constructed the altar in

the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church is St.

Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne, now used as a storehouse. The

Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as parts of the fortifications,

still remain.

Becket.

Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166;

when also, with the awful forms provided by the Roman ritual, he

pronounced sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and

others, and would have included Henri II. himself, had he not been

informed that the King at that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in

1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under

Philippe-Auguste to set out on the third crusade. Vezelay is the

birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the pillars of the

Reformed Church. In his arms Calvin expired.

1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of

the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from

St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.

9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is Avallon, pop. 6000, on the Cousin. _Hotels:_

Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St. Lazare, 12th cent., is a

beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of Burgundian architecture.

Coach awaits passengers at the station for Saulieu, 17 miles distant,

pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An interesting town with a church, St.

Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards of Avallon produce good wine. The best

keeps well in bottle from fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from

Avallon is the Forêt de Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent

down the Yonne and Seine in rafts.

Semur.

After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and

then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop. 4150. _Hotels:_ Côte

d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the Armançon, about a mile

from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by

Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th cent., and

repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a sculptured porch. The

windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass; the subjects are

portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In this part is a

beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet high. At each

transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant walks around and

about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the ramparts still remain.

12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and

map page 1.)

Saint Florentin.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

107½

429½

SAINT FLORENTIN,

pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In town,

H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach

starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of

Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road

separates from the Chablis road.

Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station.

The parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The

windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.

The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes

standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful

rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a

relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection

of Jesus Christ.

At Pontigny there is

a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but pilgrims to the

shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the abbey buildings. From

Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre, 13 m. S.W.,

stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the church of

Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with narthex and

round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand and

imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft.

wide, and 72 high, and is upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty

massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave.

A row of small round-headed windows extends round the church below

the arches, and another, exactly similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th

cent., behind the high altar are the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of

Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a village in the neighbourhood. The

original shrine, a plain wooden coffin, is upstairs in the

cloister. The view of the interior of the building is spoilt by an ugly

screen, rendered necessary to shut off the sanctuary from the rest of

the church to make it more comfortable for the villagers, whose parish

church it has now become. The abbey buildings, of which parts still

remain in good condition, were inhabited by Becket. In the treasury is

the black strip of a stole he used to wear, sewed on to another stole.

Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious deeds connected with him and

others, who had retired to this, then an austere Cistercian monastery.

The walls of the cloister are hung with engravings representing scenes

in the life of St. Edmund.

Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and

remained till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from

Vezelay to Sens.

Tonnerre.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

123

414

TONNERRE, pop. 6000, on

the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Courriers—both near each

other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past

the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the cemetery, and to the

church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right above the town. At the

foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular

basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; but it is in a

dirty part of the town, and used by the washerwomen. A straight

street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, built

in 1834, the original part of which, built by Marguerite de Bourgogne in

1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her remains repose under a

beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308).

To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The

arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.

Tanlay.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

127½

409½

TANLAY, pop. 1000, on the

Armançon. A small village with a handsome castle in an extensive

park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci, in 1520,

but by far the largest portion by a brother of Admiral Coligny, in 1559.

The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The principal court is 79 feet

by 36. In a

room in the second story of the Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the

Protestant party used to meet under the presidency of Admiral Coligny.

A fresco on the ceiling represents, under the disguise of the gods

of Olympus, the persons who took the most prominent part in the

political and religious events of that period. Catherine de Médicis is

portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the Condé as Mars. Round

the room are a series of curiously-constructed recesses, communicating

with each other in the walls. The largest of the splendid chimney-pieces

is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds are the ruins of the

abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier, both of the 13th cent.

At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel, pop. 1000, time 1 hour

45 minutes, among forests, and famous for truffles.

Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

136

401

ANCY-LE-FRANC,

pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545, and built

according to the plans of Primaticcio.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

142

395

NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES, pop. 700.

Important junction with the Paris and Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles north-east to

Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits. In the

environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of Rochefort,

17th and 18th cents.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

151

386

MONTBARD, pop. 3000, on

the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born

in this small village on the 7th of September 1707. His château,

a plain large house, is entered from the extremity of the main

street farthest from the station. The grounds are extensive, and laid

out in terraces. On the western front of the terrace is the small square

house, with three windows and one door, into which he retired at five in

the morning to pursue his studies. In another building he kept his

manuscripts. In the grounds of the château, on the walk below the

dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small

column erected to his memory by his son, who fell a victim to the

tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days before the downfall of that

monster. Situated on a terrace at the entrance of the grounds is the

parish church, containing the tomb of Buffon. A black stone slab

over the door bears the following inscription:—

Buffon

A été inhumé dans le

Caveau de cette chapelle

Le 20 Avril 1788.

There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is

the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

160

377

LES LAUMES.

_Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois,

1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from the

station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900.

_Inn:_ H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, b.c. 50, defeated the Gauls under Vercingetorix,

whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands just above

the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has some curious

sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of September. Four miles

from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a beautiful park of 84

acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of

Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable collection of

portraits of historical personages by eminent artists. (See

page 14.)

PARIS

MARSEILLES

165

372

DARCEY, pop. 850, 2 miles

from its station, at the foot of steep mountains 1315 ft. high.

_Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are curious caves, and a

subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus at station for

Flavigny, 1½ mile distant,

pop. 1300, on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old

walls. Church 13th cent., with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th,

14th, and 15th cents. Convent of the Ursulines, with splendid view.

Source of the Seine.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

171¼

365¾

VERREY, pop. 900.

_Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the Source of

the Seine, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the woods,

but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the village

of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards Bligny-le-Sec,

pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the farmhouse

Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left and follow

the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) stone,

where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first the farmhouse

Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above

the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a little garden

enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house beyond. The tiny

infant stream issues forth under the protection of a recumbent statue of

the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or guide 5 frs.

It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please can go back by

the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop.

1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.

A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St.

Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

179

358

BLAIZY-BAS, situated

at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces through the basin of the

Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long, and 1330 feet above

the sea.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

190

347

VELARS, pop. 1400. After the

preceding station of Malain, and before reaching the next station,

Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold railway engineering. The

viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers of arches and is 492 feet

long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long. From Velars commences the

branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see

page 24.)

Dijon

DIJON

opp. 20

see caption

The principal street is the Rue

Guillaume. To the left is the Castle built by Louis XI., now the

Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the Place and Statue of St. Bernard.

No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large building at the foot of the Rue

Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy,

containing the Hôtel de Ville, the Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3

is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6 St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre.

Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is the Palais de Justice. The church near

the station (No. 8) is St. Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty

needle spire. Close to it is St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

196

341

DIJON, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station.

_Hotels:_ La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the

station. Near the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the

Bourgogne and the Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous

for mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.

Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding

hour. Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.

Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce,

82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent

road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See

page 19.)

Dijon: Salle des Gardes. Museums.

The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which

was inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le

Temeraire; but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de

Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the

ground-floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by

323 steps, and commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest

is modern, and is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the

École des Beaux Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum

is on the right side of the great court, and is open to the public on

Sundays. Other days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the Salle des Gardes are the

magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son

Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the

two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white

marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty

statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the

articles which belonged to them in this room are three

beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;

and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and

the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died

1098.

The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two statues

of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each, but in

reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few choice

paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered

one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the

kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys. Fronting

the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses arranged in a

kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue des Forges.

Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence of the

British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral

staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches

in height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or

serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,

like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the

roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine

Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54

of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double

arch seen in the Hotel de Ville.

Dijon: Notre Dame.

St. Benigne.

Close to the Rue des Forges is Notre Dame, consecrated in 1331,

a very beautiful and interesting specimen of Burgundian

architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance

style, and farther east, in the Rue Chaudronnière, the Maison des

Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hotel de Ville

is the Palais de Justice, formerly the palace of the Parliament of

Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is of massive carved

chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At

the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty little chapel which

belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne,

founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the 18th, but now the

corn-market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St.

Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious frescoes. Standing

at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue Guillaume, we have, towards

the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in 1478, or rather what remains

of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and a little to the N.E. by a

wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091)

at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau beside the curious little church,

2 miles N.W. by the road of that name. Towards the right is St. Benigne, easily

recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet

high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805. The crypt and the

porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the 13th. In the south

aisle is the

slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjoining the beautiful

mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the N. aisle, in the baptistery

chapel, are deposited the remains of Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is

St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a narthex and a beautiful crocketed

spire. It is now used as an artillery store.

Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet.

Asile des Aliénés.

From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,

founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in

1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery

of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without

merit.

Bossuet was baptised

in this church, and born in No. 10 of this “Place,” 27th September 1627.

Among the writings of this eloquent and illustrious prelate the finest

is the funeral oration on the death of Henrietta Anne, the daughter of

our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of Orleans. Southwards is St.

Anne, 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into

the Asile des

Aliénés, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi

in 1379. Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are

the kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied

by Sts. Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the

beautiful glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next

taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter,

consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one

of the prophets, by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the

ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the

least successful, and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house

contains on an average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers,

but an admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and

Jura are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its

charges are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number

of pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau

d’eau, and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens.

Towards the extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old.

The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue

Chabot Charny, the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards

long), to the public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel

to the slopes of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or,

extending from N.E. to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet.

Behind them rises another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and

sheltering the lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and

Meursault grow the first-class Burgundy wines; while south from

Meursault follow the

Macon wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten

years in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.

Gevrey-Chambertin.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

203

334

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 1¼ mile from station,

pop. 2000. Famous for their first-class growths, of which the best are

the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in

the commune of Gevrey, produce also first-class Burgundies.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

206¼

330¾

VOUGEOT, on the Vouge,

pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier. Here there are

above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class Burgundies. Among the

most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti,

Richebourg, and La Tache.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

209½

327½

NUITS, pop. 4000. _Inn:_

Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The best vineyard here is the

St. George, which produces a wine of an exquisite flavour and a delicate

and delicious bouquet. The church, St. Symphorien, belongs to the 13th

cent., and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey

of Citeaux, now used as a house of detention for youthful criminals, who

are trained here to be agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by

Robert de Molesme in 1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of

the Cistercian order, and from it went forth four of its abbots, to

assume the keys of St. Peter. The greater part of the buildings was

rebuilt in 1798.

Beaune.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

219

318

BEAUNE, pop. 12,000.

_Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream Buzoise. This town is

the headquarters of the merchants who deal in Burgundy wines, as

Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it are the first-class

vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of these the Volnay

vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most valuable wine,

under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the Pommard under

that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The principal church,

Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains semicircular and

equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian capitals.

In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to

Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in

1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic

School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the

15th cent.—a curious and interesting building. The Salle de

Conseil upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a

painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden.

Near Beaune is Savigny, with a château built in 1672; in the

neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St.

Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.

Meursault.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

223½

313½

MEURSAULT, pop. 3000,

1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits passengers for the Inn. The most

distinguished wines produced here are the Goutte d’Or,

a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white wine of

a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny, where the

delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

228

309

CHAGNY, pop. 4200.

_Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers 102 m. W.,

passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m.

W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page

25, and map page 1). From Chagny

southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around

Chagny produce a first-class quality.

Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards

in this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles

distant is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a

deep fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of

the castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a

remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal

mines.

Autun.

26 m. W. from Chagny is Autun,

pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche. This modernised little town,

the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves the honour of having been built

before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter in this city with two

Roman legions; and at a later period, when the Emperor Augustus went to

Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters, and erected so many magnificent

public buildings that the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum,

modernised into Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,”

considers, however, that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount

Beauvray, 14 miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements,

fragments of pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been

discovered. The walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and

8 feet thick, and were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with

four large gates, of which two—the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high,

and the Porte St. André, lately restored—still remain. The Porte

d’Arroux and the temple of Janus (a plain square tower) are behind

the railway station. But the Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient

church, is on the town side of the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The

Cathedral, which commands the entire city, was completed in 1178.

The architecture of the modern portions is Gothic, but the more ancient

is Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and adorned with Gothic

spires. The interior contains several windows of painted glass. The

entrance is by a handsome open portico with sculptured arches and

columns. From the Porte St.

Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads to the

Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great

antiquity.

In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the

Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789

Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.

Montchanin. Le Creusot.

73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny,

is Montchanin, pop.

2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits passengers. The

town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly of the houses of

the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits, foundries, and large

artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town is the Étang Berthaud,

the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which connects the Saône with the

Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.

78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from

Chagny, is Le

Creusot, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in the

ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the

principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers. Le

Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which

enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the

coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them

from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling

suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general feature

is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and

cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few priests,

policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two hotels, is

a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the

workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is

imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all manner

of powerful machinery, there is no noise.

West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is Etang, with an ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from

Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue,

close to station. Coach 12 m. to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, with

alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m. E. from Nevers is

Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy by the rail,

skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix, close to

station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_

Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in the

Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais, which

commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church

has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the 10th cent.,

containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle works, and

coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.

Chalon-sur-Saône.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

235

302

CHALON-sur-saône, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_

at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois

Faissans. Steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on

an extensive plain on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre,

both lined with good quays. The chief structures are—St. Vincent,

a Gothic edifice of the latter part of the 13th cent., occupying

the site of a church founded in 532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty

steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two

stations—one in the town, and another at St. Come, where the

express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where

Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but the monastery has

disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop. 3200, with

first-class vineyards. Rail to

PARIS

MARSEILLES

243

294

VARENNES. South from

this station the train passes before the abbey of St. Ambreuil.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

254

283

TOURNUS, on the Saône,

pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An untidy town on the

Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de

Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the citizens in 1868.

Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among the finest paintings

of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725.

The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic monument, of

which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and the latest to the 16th

cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was

founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de

Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines.

opp. 27

the RHONE & SAVOY

with the passes from

FRANCE INTO ITALY

see caption

Macon.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

274

263

MACON, pop. 20,000. At

station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with line to Bourg,

41 m. E. _Hotels._—Near the station, H. Étrangers. In

town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the

steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons,

Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs

Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an

inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays

which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12

arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of

the river. The oldest edifice is the Cathedral of St. Vincent,

built in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque,

and the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the

Episcopal palace. In this neighbourhood,

at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a

black marble slab over the door are the words:—Ici est né

Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790.

In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station,

the beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque

style, and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.

From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to

Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line

extends to Geneva 74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and

Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See Black’s _France_, North Half, and

map page 1.)

Cluny. Paray-le-Monial.

Cluny, pop. 5000. In the

valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne; Pavilions—both

near each other. This is the place where Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in

the 10th cent, the famous abbey of Cluny. The abbey buildings are now

used as a school. Of the abbey church an insignificant portion alone

remains, and of it the most interesting part is the spire. In the

Chapelle des Bourbons (15th cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty

niches. About 300 yards distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent.,

with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors.

At the entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the

first church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;

entrance, ½-franc each.

41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial,

pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across

the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the

Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the

Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de

Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice built

in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to it,

occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.

A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish

church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th cent.

Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal roofs,

llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an octagonal

tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated spire. From

the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and short attached

columns.

Marguerite.

From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up

to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and

established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the

monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their

chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in 1854.

To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in this

building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her interviews with

J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are

painted light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so

hung with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of

them is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3

angels before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair

and dressed in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red

and outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds

her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of her.

To the left of entrance the pictures are—1st, a Vision; 2d,

Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of

Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The

picture over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when

J. C. is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and

sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for

ever.” On the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied

by numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders

of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the

special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship

there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of

J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing

one of the above incidents.

The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in the

habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a

coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with

rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft. long.

On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail; at

other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made of

one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born 22d

July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the convent

of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the vows on

the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had been

chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was seized with

a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her life. She met at

first with great opposition in her endeavours to institute the worship

of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as a visionary till 1675,

when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of the Jesuit

establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last illness she

said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my Saviour

commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was canonised by

Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution of N. D. de

Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray

there are 3 nunneries and a vast building belonging to the Jesuits.

From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône,

whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page 26.

Romaneche. Belleville.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

283

254

ROMANECHE, pop. 3000.

_Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine, with a pleasant

flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should be drunk in the

second year from the vintage.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

288½

248½

BELLEVILLE, pop.

4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the next Belleville,

1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn, the

H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small

round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in

those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small

circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the

Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to

Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious

houses. (Map, page 26.)

PARIS

MARSEILLES

297

240

VILLEFRANCHE-sur-saône, pop. 12,600, on

the river Morgan, near the Saône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe.

Containing important linen manufactories, and vineyards producing a good

white wine. The parish church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in

the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the

town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the Saône. _Inns:_ Terrasse;

France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in this town the _Journal de

Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de Trévoux_ in 1704.

PARIS

MARSEILLES

306

231

ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or, junction with

line from Paris to Lyons, by Roanne and Tarare.

Lyons.

[West]

plan of Lyons

[East]

PARIS

MARSEILLES

318

219

LYONS, pop. 343,000. The

Perrache railway station is 218 m. from Paris, 219 m. from

Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from Bourg,

104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,

100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin.

_Hotels

(first-class)._—H. de l’Europe, admirably situated,

with one side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the

Place Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de

la République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon.

H. Bellecour in the Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the

R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also well situated. In the Place Perrache, below

the station, are the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du

Parc.

_Less expensive Hotels._—The H. du Globe; and the

Havre et du Luxemburg—both near the Place Bellecour. Near the

Place des Terreaux in the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du

Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des Négociants, a large house

frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the Négociants, at No. 47 Rue

de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers, Place de

la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg, 8 frs., in the

Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National, opposite the

theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General Hospital, the

H. Bourne. A great

many diligences start from this neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4

Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine, close to the Place des Terreaux, one of

the cheapest. Among the best cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the

Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la

République; Café du Rhône, Place Bellecour. They have English

newspapers. In Lyons the term Comptoir is applied to bars where wines,

cordials, and brandies are sold.

_Post

Office._—Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at

the south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade

of the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.

_Telegraph._—Head office, No. 53 Place de la République.

Branch offices—Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38

Cours Morand.

Lyons: Railway Stations. Cab Fares.

_Railway

Stations._—The great and central station is the Gare de

Perrache, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and

the Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on

the railway to Bourg. The Bourg or Satonay railway station is at

the top of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner

of the Place des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the

hill by a rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per

100, and the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de

la Croix Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway

carriages. The rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a

convenient way of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The

Dombes or St. Paul’s railway station is for Montbrison,

40 m. S.W. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the

Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the

Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best of the trams.

CAB

FARES

KIND OF CAB.

DE 7 H. DU MATIN

a minuit.

DE MINUIT

a 7 H. du mat.

LA course. LA 1re heure. LES H. suiv. LA course. l’heure.

A 2 places (coupés) 1 25 1 50 1 25 1 65 2 50

A 4 places (berlines) 1 50 2 1 50 2 3

Voitures découvertes à 2 places

à 4 places 1 75

2 2

2 50 1 75

2 2 15

2 50 3

3 50

The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs

with 2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations

the omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.

Lyons: Tramways. Theatres. Steamers.

_Tramways._—The fares are moderate, and

most of the cars comfortable. The best to take to see the principal

parts of the town is the large roomy car running between the Perrache

railway station and the Brotteaux railway station, passing through the

P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and

P. de la République between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre,

across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the

Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus the road by the

side of the fort “des Charpennes” leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40), which having

visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10 minutes, or by

the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité. The outside of

the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4. The two most

important places to visit on the return journey are the Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38). Tram

between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare

outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out

at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons,

pop. 4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.

_Theatres._—The Grand Théâtre,

between the Hôtel de Ville and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls,

6 frs. The Théâtre des Célestins, between the Rue St.

Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, 4 frs.

Théâtre Bellecour, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new

theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for

3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls

cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the

Théâtre des Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St.

Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.

_Steamers on the

Saône_ (Les Guèpes).—Sail between the Quai St. Antoine (to

the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In

summer 5 departures daily.

Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place

Perrache, by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on

the Quai de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the

Pont du Port another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling

likewise at numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire,

and between them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.

The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St.

Claire on the Rhône and Aix-les-Bains on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and

Saturdays. Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon,

calling at the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing

and shipping of cargo.

Lyons: Sights.

_Sights._—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see

below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place

Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, page

31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40.

The galleries in the Palais des Arts,

page 35. The museum of silk

manufacture, page 38.

Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest

rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach

each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part

of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,

the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the

R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful

squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place

Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In

the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke,

which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the

municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour

(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with

trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,

which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in

1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two

squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,

during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,

on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings

pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see

page 37).

The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of

substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24

miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux

Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind

the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short

sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient,

page 31.

opp. 33

larger map of Lyons

Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway.

The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, standing on the

site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere;

whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be

visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything

else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained

from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of

Tilsitt across the Saône, at the upper side of

the “Place,” is the rope railway, which ascends through tunnels the

hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the

way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by

the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a

large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to

the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has

accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman

palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this

hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière,

lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the

pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,

medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and

hotels.

On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône,

is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from

which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high.

This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb

view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are

immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont

Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church

below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.

The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,

which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.

It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object

in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an

octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the

four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three

large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top

of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff

sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the

neighbourhood are convents.

Lyons: Observatoire Gay.

St. Paul.

A little eastward is the “Observatoire Gay,” from which a steep path,

the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city,

reaching it by the side of the station of the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this

station is the church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful

N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches,

a few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the

original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the

early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the

stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St.

Vincent.

Lyons: St. Irénée.

The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42

Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short

distance of the church of St. Irénée, on the summit of a hill in the

suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a

Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by

the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance

into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,

which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the

first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St.

Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St.

Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre

St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y

furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in

1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of

animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée,

restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the

saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first

flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the

original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were

thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,

a.d. 202. To visit the calvary and

crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing

particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of

the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It

was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day.

At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.

Lyons: Cathedral of St. Jean.

Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the

Tilsit bridge, is the Cathedral of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th

cent., repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and

reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates

from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the

13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely

decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from

W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th

cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown

flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right

hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother

Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,

and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of

the arches and the vault of the roof are richly

decorated. In the N. transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas

Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St.

Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek, who preached in this city a.d. 177, and sealed his doctrines with his blood.

Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent., formerly the

bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.

A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)

occupied in the 13th cent. by the Knight Templars. Above the

cathedral is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of

the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade

of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the

court rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up—the Pont

de Nemours—leads directly to the church of Saint Nizier,

with the façade towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de

l’Hôtel de Ville. The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by

Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent.

The rest of the building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a

broad triforium with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the

church. The vaulting shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In

the chapel of the south transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the

foot of the pier in this transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th

cent. At the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre,

a modern edifice, with a beautiful portal of the 11th cent., all

that remains of the original church.

Lyons: Palais des Beaux-Arts. Musée Lapidaire.

On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the Palais des

Beaux-Arts, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames

Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the

museums. Open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from

11 to 4, and to strangers daily.

Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are

the ancient marbles or Musée Lapidaire, one of the best in Europe.

The sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs,

in many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these

records of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the

Augustan age upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of

that day were already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner

of the court on entering is the stair which leads up to the

Archæological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both on the first floor.

Up on the second floor is the collection of paintings by the “peintres

lyonnais.”

Lyons: Musée Archéologique.

The Musée Archéologique is well arranged

and carefully labelled. The only object we would indicate, as it is apt

to be overlooked, is the bronze table, a.d. 48, in the second room left hand, with

inscribed portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor,

imploring the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a

Roman colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This

table was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien.

Germanicus, and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla,

were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time

prefect of Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs

in hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,

armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,

rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on

the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic

collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at

Lyons from 43 b.c. to 1857. Adjoining

and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, contained in six small

rooms, of which the first three contain the Flemish and Dutch schools,

the next two the Italian and Spanish schools, and the sixth the French

school. They are all carefully labelled. Among the pictures which

represent the Flemish school are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers,

Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael.

The Italian and Spanish schools are represented by Canaletto, Sasso

Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor

of the fourth room is a remarkably perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by

3, representing chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the

church of Ainay.

Lyons: Galerie Chenavard.

In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie Chenavard on the

first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him illustrative of the

scenes which accompanied the introduction of Christianity into France.

They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris, but, the age of reason

supervening, they were not sent. On the floors are three beautiful

mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above are the best

pictures—J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,

P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci,

1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David,

1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674;

Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo,

1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension

of Christ, considered the gem of the collection.

This picture, originally in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was

presented by Pope Pio VII. “in attestato del suo affetto é della grata

sua rimembranza per la citta di Lione.” The lower part of the picture is

by far the best, the figures in the air are too massive, and the posture

of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud,

1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto,

1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur,

1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.

* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743.

The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the

Mineralogical

Collection, in which are represented the characteristic rocks

and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores from the

mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000

engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the

arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every

evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.

Lyons: Place Terreaux. Hôtel de Ville.

On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville,

built in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by

domed square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is

1150 ft. long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture.

From the centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over

the entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within

the vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the

brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood

originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.

In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu,

in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting

in the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it

became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the

executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish

this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.

Lyons: Condition des Soies. Library. Bourse. Silk Museum.

Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7,

is the establishment of the Condition des Soies, where the bales of silk

brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron

grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from

64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.

The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first

story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St.

Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite

end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.

In the Rue de la République is the Bourse, a profusely ornamented edifice

inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built in the

14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée with

the public library,

containing the great terrestrial globe made at Lyons in 1701, indicating

the great African lakes, the rediscovery of which has been one of the

events of the present century. There are 160,000 volumes and 2500

manuscripts,—about 600 of the printed works being incunabula, and

25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian period.

In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the Art and

Manufacture of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays

between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,

specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to

centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far

the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first

and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly

artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely

designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the

hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting

posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also

the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms

from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains

part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom

made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to

produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely

changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same

loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was

B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are

improved copies.

The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of

silk—displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori,

as well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every

condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and

hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.

Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.

Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for

these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to

hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals,

have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure

is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion,

which makes a silk dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly,

with an occasional alteration, it was worn for years.

In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large

covered markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive

in tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway

travelling provision. (See page 42.)

Lyons: City Hospital and Workhouse.

Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and

the other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the

Hôtel Dieu, or

general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by Childebert

and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally the work

of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, about

1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per day. The

rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards are

arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under the

small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from

their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,

containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are

tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the

Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at

Oullins for incurables.

In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.

Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at

Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a

built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it

is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.

Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly

decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,

of Sainte Valentine.

Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531,

on the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes

who have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be

mothers. The church was built in 1617.

Lyons: St. Martin d’Ainay.