ORANGE PERFUMES.

The orange tree is produced from the pip, which is sown in a sheltered

uncovered bed. When the young plant is about 4 feet high, it is

transplanted and allowed a year to gain strength in its new

surroundings. It is then grafted with shoots from the Portugal or

Bigaradier. It requires much care in the first few years, must be well

manured, and during the summer well watered, and if at all exposed

must have its stem covered up with straw in winter. It is not expected

to yield a crop of flowers before the fourth year after

transplantation. The flowering begins toward the end of April and

lasts through May to the middle of June. The buds are picked when on

the point of opening by women, boys, and girls, who make use of a

tripod ladder to reach them. These villagers carry the fruits (or,

rather, flowers) of their day's labor to a flower agent or

commissionnaire, who weighs them, spreads them out in a cool place

(the flowers, not the villagers), where they remain until 1 or 2 A.M.;

he then puts them into sacks, and delivers them at the factory before

the sun has risen. They are here taken in hand at once; on exceptional

days as many as 160 tons being so treated in the whole province. After

the following season, say end of June, the farmers prune their trees;

these prunings are carted to the factory, where the leaves are

separated and made use of.

During the autumn the ground round about the trees is well weeded, dug

about, and manured. The old practice of planting violets under the

orange trees is being abandoned. Later on in the year those blossoms

which escaped extermination have developed into fruits. These, when

destined for the production of the oil, are picked while green.

The orange trees produce a second crop of flowers in autumn, sometimes

of sufficient importance to allow of their being taken to the

factories, and always of sufficient importance to provide brides with

the necessary bouquets.

Nature having been thus assisted to deliver these, her wonderful

productions, the flowers, the leaves, and the fruits of the orange

tree, at the factory, man has to do the rest. He does it in the

following manner:

The flowers are spread out on the stone floor of the receiving room in

a layer some 6 to 8 inches deep; they are taken in hand by young

girls, who separate the sepals, which are discarded. Such of the

petals as are destined for the production of orange flower water and

neroli are put into a still through a large canvas chute, and are

covered with water, which is measured by the filling of reservoirs on

the same floor. The manhole of the still is then closed, and the

contents are brought to boiling point by the passage of superheated

steam through the coils of a surrounding worm. The water and oil pass

over, are condensed, and fall into a Florentine receiver, where the

oil floating on the surface remains in the flask, while the water

escapes through the tube opening below. A piece of wood or cork is

placed in the receiver to break up the steam flowing from the still;

this gives time for the small globules of oil to cohere, while it

breaks the force of the downward current, thus preventing any of the

oil being carried away.

The first portions of the water coming from the still are put into

large tinned copper vats, capable of holding some 500 gallons, and

there stored, to be drawn off as occasion may require into glass

carboys or tinned copper bottles. This water is an article of very

large consumption in France; our English cooks have no idea to what an

extent it is used by the _chefs_ in the land of the "darned mounseer."

The oil is separated by means of a pipette, filtered, and bottled off.

It forms the oil of neroli of commerce; 1,000 kilos. of the flowers

yield 1 kilo. of oil. That obtained from the flowers of the

Bigaradier, or bitter orange, is the finer and more expensive quality.

The delicate scent of orange flowers can be preserved quite unchanged

by another and more gentle process, viz., that of maceration. It was

noticed by some individual, whose name has not been handed down to us,

that bodies of the nature of fat and oil are absorbers of the

odor-imparting particles exhaled by plants. This property was seized

upon by some other genius equally unknown to fame, who utilized it to

transfer the odor of flowers to alcohol.

Where oil is used it is the very finest olive, produced by the trees

in the neighborhood. This is put into copper vats holding about 50

gallons; 1 cwt. of flowers is added. After some hours the flowers are

strained out by means of a large tin sieve. The oil is treated with

another cwt. of flowers and still another, until sufficiently

impregnated. It is then filtered through paper until it becomes quite

bright; lastly it is put into tins, and is ready for exportation or

for use in the production of extracts.

Where fat is employed as the macerating agent, the fat used is a

properly adjusted mixture of lard and suet, both of which have been

purified and refined during the winter months, and kept stored away in

well closed tins.

One cwt. of the fat is melted in a steam-jacketed pan, and poured into

a tinned copper vat capable of holding from 5 to 6 cwt. About 1 cwt.

of orange flowers being added, these are well stirred in with a wooden

spatula. After standing for a few hours, which time is not sufficient

for solidification to take place, the contents are poured into shallow

pans and heated to 60° C. The mixture thus rendered more fluid is

poured on to a tin sieve; the fat passes through, the flowers remain

behind. These naturally retain a large amount of macerating liquor. To

save this they are packed into strong canvas bags and subjected to

pressure between the plates of a powerful hydraulic press. The fat

squeezed out is accompanied by the moisture of the flowers, from which

it is separated by skimming. Being returned to the original vat, our

macerating medium receives another complement of flowers to rob of

their scent, and yet others, until the strength of the pomade desired

is reached. The fat is then remelted, decanted, and poured into tins

or glass jars.

To make the extrait, the pomade is beaten up with alcohol in a special

air tight mixing machine holding some 12 gallons, stirrers moved by

steam power agitating the pomade in opposite directions. After some

hours' agitation a creamy liquid is produced, which, after resting,

separates, the alcohol now containing the perfume. By passing the

alcohol through tubes surrounded by iced water, the greater part of

the dissolved fat is removed.

These are the processes applied to the flowers. The leaves are

distilled only for the oil of petit grain. This name was given to the

oil because it was formerly obtained from miniature orange fruits.

From 1,000 kilos. of leaves 2 kilos. of oil are obtained.

The oil obtained from the fruit of the orange, like that of the lemon,

is extracted at Grasse by rolling the orange over the pricks of an

_ecueille_, an instrument with a hollow handle, into which the oil

flows. The oil is sometimes taken up by a sponge. Where the oil is

produced in larger quantities, as at Messina, more elaborate apparatus

is employed. A less fragrant oil is obtained by distilling the

raspings of the rind.

Scientific American Supplement, No. 643, April 28, 1888 · 第 23 / 57 题