Being a little refreshed I passed on to "Mount Pisga," where I

found another flourishing settlement of the Saints, and stayed over

night. Thence I passed on to the Missouri River, finding Saints to

entertain me every night. In making the journey from St. Louis to

Missouri River, near Winter Quarters, I had probably travelled near

four hundred and fifty miles on horseback. I crossed over the ferry

at noon of a fine April day, and came suddenly upon my friends and

family. This was April 8, 1847. I found my family all alive, and

dwelling in a log cabin. They had, however, suffered much from

cold, hunger and sickness. They had oftentimes lived for several

days on a little corn meal, ground on a hand mill, with no other

food. One of the family was then lying very sick with the scurvy--a

disease which had been very prevalent in camp during the winter,

and of which many had died. I found, on inquiry, that the winter

had been very severe, the snow deep, and, consequently, that all my

horses (four in number) were lost, and I afterwards ascertained

that out of twelve cows I had but seven left, and out of some

twelve or fourteen oxen only four or five were spared.

President Young and Council, with a company of pioneers, were

then encamped on the Elk Horn River, twenty miles west, ready to

start for the mountains. Some of them, however, returned to Winter

Quarters on business, and I had an interview with them. I then gave

a relation of our European mission, and delivered to them an

account of our hundred and sixty-nine sovereigns in gold, collected

in England as tithing, which had crossed the sea in my charge, and

was then in charge of Elder Taylor on the Missouri River, and might

be expected soon. This small sum proved a very acceptable and

timely relief in aiding the Presidency to relieve some of the

distress, and to fit out as pioneers for the mountains.

The President and Council seemed well pleased with our mission

and management. They expressed an earnest wish for me to accompany

them on the pioneer trip to the mountains; but my circumstances

seemed to forbid, and they did not press the matter.

After a few days' rest I began to prepare for journeying to the

mountains with my family. My wagons were overhauled and put in

order, tires reset, chains repaired, yokes and bows arranged in

order, wagon bows made or mended, etc., etc. This occupied most of

my time till June.

Early in June I loaded my goods and family into my wagons, and,

obtaining a few more cattle, started for the Rocky Mountains; or

rather for the Elk Horn River, where we expected to form a

rendezvous, and establish a ferry and wait the arrival of others,

and the organization of companies for the purpose of mutual safety

in travelling.

Arriving at Elk Horn River with a small company, we made a ferry

of a raft of dry cotton-wood timber, and rafted over our own

company of about fifty wagons. We then organized for herding and

grazing purposes, continued to aid others in crossing and

organizing until five hundred and sixty-six wagons were finally

crossed and organized ready for a march. In the final organization

of this vast company Father Isaac Morley and Bishop Whitney

assisted, or rather took the oversight--being a committee appointed

for that purpose by the Presidency before they left. As Brother

Taylor and myself were present, we were appointed and invited to

take a general superintendency of this emigration.

The organization consisted of companies of tens, fifties and

hundreds, with a captain over each, and the whole presided over by

a president and two counselors, a marshal, etc. President John

Young was called to preside--having been nominated by the

Presidency before their departure. John Van Cott was appointed

marshal.

This organized, this large company moved on up the Platte about

the Fourth of July. There were some difficulties and jealousies

during the first few days, on account of some misunderstanding and

insubordination in the order of travel. This at length became so

far developed that it was found necessary to call a general halt on

the Platte River, and hold a council of the principal officers, in

which things were amicably adjusted and the camp moved on.

Arriving at the Loupe Fork of Platte River, we continued up it

quite a distance above the trail the pioneers had made, as we could

not ford the river in their track. We at length found a ford, and

with some difficulty on account of quicksands, forded the river and

made our way over to the Main Platte, re-entering the pioneer

trail. As we passed up the Platte on this trail the companies in

front had frequently to halt and build bridges, etc. On one

occasion Peregrine Sessions, who was captain of our company of

fifty, and myself found two horses which had probably strayed from

some former travellers, and which, after several unsuccessful

attempts by different parties, Brother Taylor succeeded in driving

into camp, he and I captured them. We were at the time ahead of the

company, following up a stream to try and find a ford. This was a

very timely providence to me, as I had lost all my horses the

previous winter, and was now pioneering for the company without any

horse, and on foot.

After journeying for several hundred miles up the Platte, we at

length met two messengers from the pioneers under President Young,

from Salt Lake Valley. These were P. Rockwell and E. T. Benson; who

had been sent out to try to find us and report our progress and

circumstances. Having visited all the camps, they returned to the

valley, or rather to where they met the President and pioneers, on

their way back to Winter Quarters on the Missouri. I accompanied

them back nearly one day's ride on the way, and then bid them God

speed, and returned to my own camp. Soon after this our fifty met

the President and company of pioneers and camped with them one day.

A council was called, in which I was highly censured and

chastened by President Young and others. This arose in part from

some defect in the organization under my superintendence at the Elk

Horn, and in part from other misunderstandings on the road. I was

charged with neglecting to observe the order of organization

entered into under the superintendence of the President before he

left the camps at Winter Quarters; and of variously interfering

with previous arrangements. In short, I was severely reproved and

chastened. I no doubt deserved this chastisement; and I humbled

myself, acknowledged my faults and errors, and asked forgiveness. I

was frankly forgiven, and, bidding each other farewell, each

company passed on their way. This school of experience made me more

humble and careful in future, and I think it was the means of

making me a wiser and better man ever after.

After bidding farewell to the President and pioneers, and to my

own brother, Orson Pratt, who was one of them, we continued our

journey; and after many toils, vexations and trials, such as

breaking wagons, losing cattle, upsetting, etc., we arrived in the

Valley of Great Salt Lake late in September, 1847. Here we found a

fort commenced and partly built by the pioneers, consisting of an

enclosure of a block of ten acres with a wall, or in part of

buildings of adobes or logs. We also found a city laid out and a

public square dedicated for a Temple of God. We found also much

ground planted in late crops, which, however, did not mature, being

planted late in July; although there were obtained for seed a few

small potatoes, from the size of a pea upward to that of half an

inch in diameter. These being sound and planted another year

produced some very fine potatoes, and, finally, contributed mainly

in seeding the territory with that almost indispensable article of

food.

After we had arrived on the ground of Great Salt Lake City we

pitched our tents by the side of a spring of water; and, after

resting a little, I devoted my time chiefly to building temporary

houses, putting in crops, and obtaining fuel from the mountains.

Having repented of our sins and renewed our covenants, President

John Taylor and myself administered the ordinances of baptism,

etc., to each other and to our families, according to the example

set by the President and pioneers who had done the same on entering

the valley.

These solemnities took place with us and most of our families,

November 28, 1847.

Some time in December, having finished sowing wheat and rye, I

started, in company with a Brother Higby and others, for Utah Lake

with a boat and fish net. We travelled some thirty miles with our

boat, etc., on an ox wagon, while some of us rode on horseback. The

distance brought us to the foot of Utah Lake, a beautiful sheet of

fresh water, some thirty-six miles long by fifteen broad. Here we

launched our boat and tried our net, being probably the first boat

and net ever used on this sheet of water in modern times.

We sailed up and down the lake shore on its western side for

many miles, but had only poor success in fishing. We, however,

caught a few samples of mountain trout and other fish.

After exploring the lake and valley for a day or two the company

returned home, and a Brother Summers and myself struck westward

from the foot of the lake on horseback, on an exploring tour. On

this tour we discovered and partly explored Cedar Valley, and there

crossed over the west mountain range and discovered a valley

beyond; passing through which we crossed a range of hills

northward, and entered Tooele Valley. Passing still northward, we

camped one night on a bold mountain stream, and the next day we

came to the southern extreme of Great Salt Lake, and passing round

between it and the west mountain we journeyed in an eastern course,

and, crossing the Jordan, arrived in Salt Lake City--having devoted

nearly one week to fishing, hunting and exploring expedition.

During all this time we had fine weather and warm days; but the

night we arrived home was a cold one, with a severe snow storm. And

thus closed the year 1847.

CHAPTER XLVI.

------------------------

Spring of 1848:--Scarcity of Provisions:--"Harvest

Feast:"--Arrival of President Young and Company:--Gold Fever:--

Explore Southern Utah.

_January 1st, 1848_.

The opening of the year found us and the community generally in

good, comfortable, temporary log or adobe cabins, which were built

in a way to enclose the square commenced by the pioneers, and a

portion of two other blocks of the city plot. Here life was as

sweet and the holidays as merry as in the Christian palaces and

mansions of those who had driven us to the mountains.

In February we again commenced to plough for spring crops, while

I had the happiness to behold the tender blade of my wheat and rye

clothing a few acres with a beautiful green, pleasingly contrasted

with the gray, wild, wormwood and other traits of our dreary

solitude; while similar pleasing sights stretched away in the

distance, marking the bounds of agriculture as possessed by my

neighbors.

_March 25th_--My oldest son Parley celebrated his

birthday with a family party--being then eleven years of age.

After dinner, in presence of the assembled family, I related the

circumstances of his being a promised child, with an account of his

birth, his history, and the death of his mother. I reminded him

that he was my first born--my heir, both to estate and priesthood.

I exhorted him to prepare to walk in my footsteps, and to do good

and serve God and his fellow men by a well ordered life, and by

laying hold of knowledge and a good education. I rehearsed to him

my own sufferings, and the sufferings of my family, and of the

Church while in the States--telling him of the murder of our

prophets and Saints, and how we had been driven to the mountains,

robbed and plundered of a very large amount of property and

possessions. The day was spent most pleasantly and profitably by

all.

I continued my farming operations, and also attended to my

ministry in the Church. Devoting my Sabbaths and leisure hours to

comforting and encouraging the Saints, and urging them to faith and

persevering industry in trying to produce a first harvest in a

desert one thousand miles from the nearest place which had matured

a crop in modern times.

We had to struggle against great difficulties in trying to

mature a first crop. We had not only the difficulties and

inexperience incidental to an unknown and untried climate, but also

swarms of insects equal to the locusts of Egypt, and also a

terrible drought, while we were entirely inexperienced in the art

of irrigation; still we struggled on, trusting in God.

During this spring and summer my family and myself, in common

with many of the camp, suffered much for want of food. This was the

more severe on me and my family because we had lost nearly all our

cows, and the few which were spared to us were dry, and, therefore,

we had no milk to help out our provisions. I had ploughed and

subdued land to the amount of near forty acres, and had cultivated

the same in grain and vegetables. In this labor every woman and

child in my family, so far as they were of sufficient age and

strength, had joined to help me, and had toiled incessantly in the

field, suffering every hardship which human nature could well

endure. Myself and some of them were compelled to go with bare feet

for several months, reserving our Indian moccasins for extra

occasions. We toiled hard and lived on a few greens and on thistle

and other roots. We had sometimes a little flour and some cheese,

and sometimes we were able to procure from our neighbors a little

sour skimmed milk or buttermilk.

In this way we lived and raised our first crop in these valleys.

And how great was our joy in partaking of the first fruits of our

industry.

On the 10th of August we held a public feast under a bowery in

the center of our fort. This was called a harvest feast; we partook

freely of a rich variety of bread, beef, butter, cheese, cakes,

pastry, green corn, melons, and almost every variety of vegetable.

Large sheaves of wheat, rye, barley, oats and other productions

were hoisted on poles for public exhibition, and there was prayer

and thanksgiving, congratulations, songs, speeches, music, dancing,

smiling faces and merry hearts. In short, it was a great day with

the people of these valleys, and long to be remembered by those who

had suffered and waited anxiously for the results of a first effort

to redeem the interior deserts of America, and to make her hitherto

unknown solitudes "blossom as the rose."

During this autumn our little colony was reinforced by the

arrival of President Young and family, accompanied with large

trains of emigrants, amounting in all to several thousands. Under

his wise counsels city lots were given out, and people began to

build on them and vacate the forts. I obtained some lots south of

the Temple square, and built a temporary adobe house, where I soon

removed with most of my family. Here, in our new habitation, we

spent the remainder of the year.

_January 1st, 1849_--Our city now began to take form and

shape, and to be dotted here and there with neat little cottages,

or small temporary buildings, composed of adobes or logs. The roofs

were generally of poles or timbers covered with earth. Saw mills

were now in operation, and a few boards were obtained for floors,

doors, etc. Our happy new year passed off merrily, and we were

probably as happy a people as could be found on the earth.

_February 12th_--I met in council with the First

Presidency and members of the Twelve, in which certain vacancies in

our quorum were filled. We were then instructed to assist in

reorganizing the different quorums here, and in establishing

righteousness. We accordingly met with the Presidency almost daily,

and proceeded to organize and ordain the Presidency of the High

Priests quorum, the Presidency of the Stake at Salt Lake City, with

its High Council, and to divide the city and county into wards and

ordain a bishop over each. In these and similar duties, and in

meeting with my quorum and teaching and preaching in the several

branches of the Church my time was chiefly spent until spring.

_March 15th_--was appointed by a General Convention as

one of a committee of ten to draft a constitution for the

Provisional State of Deseret.

_March 18th_--The committee reported, and the Convention

unanimously adopted the constitution.

I devoted the fore part of the summer to farming; but, my crop

failing, I commenced in July to work a road up the rugged canyon of

Big Canyon Creek. I had the previous year explored the canyon for

that purpose, and also a beautiful park,* and passes from Salt Lake

City to Weber River eastward, in a more southern and less rugged

route than the pioneer entrance to the valley. Emigrants now came

pouring in from the States on their way to California to seek gold.

Money and gold dust was plenty, and merchandise of almost every

description came pouring into our city in great plenty.

[Footnote] *Since called Parley's Park.

I soon so far completed my road as to be able to obtain a large

amount of fuel and timber. In November I ceased operations in the

canyon and broke up my mountain camp and returned to the city.

I now received a commission from the Governor and Legislative

Assembly of the State of Deseret to raise fifty men, with the

necessary teams and outfit, and go at their head on an exploring

tour to the southward.

This company was soon raised, armed, equipped, and ready for a

march into the dreary and almost unknown regions of Southern Utah.

I will here give the list of names composing the company, and

also a short summary of the report that I gave in to the

Legislative Assembly on our return.

PARLEY P. PRATT, _President_.

W. W. PHELPS, D. FULMER, _Counselors_;

ROBERT L. CAMPBELL, _Clerk_.

_February 7th, 1850_:

FIRST TEN: Isaac C. Haight, _Captain_. Parley P. Pratt,

William Wadsworth, Rufus Allen, Chauncey West, Dan. Jones, Hial K.

Gay, George B. Mabson, Samuel Gould, Wm. P. Vance.

SECOND TEN: Joseph Matthews, _Captain_. John Brown,

Nathan Tanner, Sterling G. Driggs, Homer Duncan, Wm. Matthews,

Schuyler Jennings, John H. Bankhead, John D. Holiday, Robert M.

Smith.

THIRD TEN: Joseph Horn, _Captain_. Wm. Brown, George

Nebiker, Benjamin F. Stewart, Alexander Wright, James Farrer, Henry

Heath, Seth B. Tanner, Alexander Lemon, David Fulmer.

FOURTH TEN: Ephraim Green, _Captain_. Wm. W. Phelps,

Charles Hopkins, Sidney Willis, Andrew Blodgett, Wm. Henry, Peter

Dustin, Thomas Ricks, Robert Campbell, Isaac H. Brown.

FIFTH TEN: Josiah Arnold, _Captain_, Jonathan Packer,

Christopher Williams, Stephen Taylor, Isaac B. Hatch, John C.

Armstrong, Dimick B. Huntington.

Our company had 12 wagons; 1 carriage; 24 yokes of cattle; 7

beeves; number of horses and mules, 38.

Average in flour, 150 lbs. to each man; besides crackers, bread

and meal. One brass field piece; firearms; ammunition in

proportion.

At Captain John Brown's, on Cotton Wood, 23d of November, 1849,

at 2 P.M., a meeting of the company for exploring the south was

convened. Called to order by P. P. Pratt, who gave instructions

relative to the necessity of peace, order and good feelings being

preserved during this expedition. Supported in this by W. W. Phelps

and David Fulmer.

Voted, That Parley P. Pratt be President of the company. That W.

W. Phelps and David Fulmer be his Counselors; carried unanimously.

Voted, That John Brown be Captain of Fifty; carried unanimously.

Voted, That W. W. Phelps act as Topographical Engineer; carried

unanimously.

Voted, That Ephraim Green be Chief Gunner; carried unanimously.

During our exploring expedition we encountered severe weather,

deep snows, and many hardships and toils incident to such an

undertaking. We explored the best portions of the country south

from Great Salt Lake City to the mouth of Santa Clara, on the Rio

Virgin, which is a principal branch of the Rio Colorado. Our

distance in going and returning was (counting the direct traveled

route as afterward opened), between seven or eight hundred miles.

In much of this distance we made the first track; and even the

portion which had before been penetrated by wagons was so

completely snowed under that we seldom found the trail.

It was during these toils, and perils, and amid the snows of

these regions, that I composed the song, beginning, "O, come, come

away, from northern blasts retiring," which became a favorite with

the singers in camp, and seemed to beguile the tedious winter

evenings around our camp fires.

I here give a few extracts from my journal while on our return

trip:

_January 21st_--Having been on our homeward journey for

some twenty days, and it snowing severely, we remained in camp.

This day I was taken very sick of a bilious attack, and was

confined to my bed. We held a council, and finding that our

provisions would only sustain half of our company till spring, and

traveling with the wagons was impossible, we decided upon leaving

half the company to winter there with the wagons and cattle, and

the other half, with some of the strongest mules and horses, should

attempt to reach Provo--the southern frontier--distance upwards of

one hundred miles. The company that remained were mostly young men

without families. My counselor, David Fulmer, being placed in

command. It was in a country of shrub cedars, which would afford

some shelter for the animals, and richly clothed in bunch grass,

and some portions of the hill sides where the snow had blown off

being nearly bare, the cattle could live.

_January 22d_--In the morning I was still sick, but about

noon bid farewell to those who stayed, mounted a mule, and, with

upwards of twenty men and animals, we commenced our wallowing in

the snow. We made about nine miles, and camped in a cedar thicket.

Being unable longer to sit on my mule, or stand on my feet, the

snow was shoveled away, some blankets spread, and I lay down. I had

not eaten one mouthful for a day or two, but vomited many times

very severely.

_Wednesday, 23d_--I was better, and we again started, the

snow being from three to four feet deep on a level. The men went

ahead on foot, the entire company, men and animals, making but one

track. The person breaking the track would tire out in a few

moments, and, giving place to another, would fall into the rear.

This day we made nine or ten miles, and camped in a mountain pass,

thirteen miles south of the Sevier River.

_Thursday, 24th_--It was long after night when we

wallowed into camp, waist deep in snow; and, shoveling away the

snow, we made fires, spread our blankets, and sank down to rest,

being entirely exhausted--our animals either tied to cedar bushes

without food, or wallowing up the hills in search of bare spots of

bunch grass.

_Friday, 25th_--We were obliged to leave several of our

animals which gave out. We passed through Round Valley, made about

ten miles, camped on the heights, some four miles south of the

Sevier. It was still snowing; our animals found some bunch grass on

the hill sides.

_Saturday, 26th_--In the morning we found ourselves so

completely buried in snow that no one could distinguish the place

where we lay. Some one rising, began shoveling the others out. This

being found too tedious a business, I raised my voice like a

trumpet, and commanded them to arise; when all at once there was a

shaking among the snow piles, the graves were opened, and all came

forth! We called this Resurrection Camp. Passing on, we forded the

Sevier, and camped on the heights, six or seven miles north of the

same, the snow this day being much less.

_Sunday, 27th_--Our provisions being nearly exhausted,

Chauncey West and myself volunteered to take some of the strongest

animals and try to penetrate to Provo, which was still some fifty

miles distant, in order to send back provisions to the remainder,

who were to follow slowly.

We started at daylight, breaking the way on foot, and leading

the mules in our track, and sometimes riding them. Traveled all

day, averaging about knee deep in snow. Camped at eleven at night

on Summit Creek, extremely hungry and feet badly frozen. We built a

small fire, it being the coldest night we had ever experienced, and

after trying in vain to thaw out our frozen shoes, stockings and

the bottoms of our drawers and pants, we rolled ourselves in our

blankets, and lay trembling with cold a few hours.

_Monday, 28th_--Arose long before day; bit a few

mouthfuls off the last black frozen biscuit remaining. Saddled up

our animals, and, after another laborious day, living on a piece of

biscuit not so large as our fist, we entered Provo at dark; raised

a posse of men and animals, with provisions, and sent back same

night.

These picked up one of our men, whose name was Taylor, who had

wandered off ahead of the rest, and had reached within some eight

miles of Provo. They found him sunk down in the snow, in a helpless

condition, his horse standing by him, and both nearly frozen to

death. He lived, but in a measure lost the use of his limbs.

This relief company met those we had left behind somewhere in

the southern end of Utah Valley, some twenty miles from Provo. They

were entirely out of food and very faint and weary. They were

plentifully supplied and safely conducted to the settlement.

I rested a day or two in Provo and then started again for home.

After riding thirty-six miles on a mule, I took supper with a

friend in Cottonwood, and, leaving the mule, started at sundown and

walked the other ten miles which brought me once more to my home.

This was about the first of February, 1850.

The company we had left with the wagons and oxen wintered

themselves and cattle very well, and finally arrived home in safety

in March following.

After my return from my southern exploring expedition I

re-entered the Legislature and continued my duties as a member of

that body until its annual adjournment.

Some time in this month I again commenced work on my road in Big

Canyon Creek, and in getting out timber and wood from the same. I

continued this operation during the remainder of the season--obtaining

much building and fencing timber and a large quantity of poles. In

July I had so far completed the road as to open it for the California

emigration. The amount of toll taken this first season was about one

thousand five hundred dollars.

The following winter, being re-elected to the Legislative

Assembly of the State of Deseret, I devoted much of the time in the

duties thereof. I also continued in the duties of my Priesthood.

And, lest any time should run to waste, I filled up the interstices

not otherwise occupied, in the study of the Spanish language.

During this winter I was called by the First Presidency and set

apart to take charge of a General Mission to the Pacific. I

composed a song, which was sung before the congregation in the

Tabernacle, on the occasion of our departure on this mission,

commencing

"Holy, happy, pure and free," etc.

I now close this chapter of my history by saying that my life up

to this date has been an eventful one, somewhat hurried and

laborious; and, if "variety is the spice of life," I think it may

truly be called a spicy one--which circumstance will account for

the imperfect sketch I have written of it.

CHAPTER XLVII.

------------------------

Start on my Pacific Mission:--Sketch of the Journey:--

Attacked by Indians:--Crossing the Desert:--Arrival at

Los Angelos.

_March 16th, 1851._

I left Great Salt Lake City for the Pacific, on a mission to its

islands and coasts, being commissioned and set apart for that work

by the First Presidency of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Jay

Saints.

Passing through various settlements, and visiting the brethren,

I arrived at Fort Utah, and assisted the Presidency to organize a

stake of Zion, with its High Council and other officers, and to

ordain and set them apart.

_Friday, 21st_--I took leave of my friends and pursued my

journey on horseback, twenty-eight miles to Peteetneet, where I

overtook my teams, and spent Saturday in organizing the company

with which we journeyed. Their outfit consisted of about one

hundred and fifty wagons. Most of the company were emigrating with

C. C. Rich and A. Lyman to Southern California.

My own party of missionaries consisted of the following elders,

viz.: John Murdock, Rufus Allen, Wm. Perkins, S. Woodbury, F. H.

Hammond, P. B. Wood, Mr. Hopkins and Morris Miner.

Mr. Perkins, Mr. Woodbury, Mr. Hammond and Mr. Hopkins were

accompanied by a wife each, as well as myself.

_Monday, 24th_--We commenced our journey from Peteetneet

organized in companies of tens, fifties and one hundred--fifty

journeying together.

Our fifty, commanded by Captain Seely, traveled six miles to

Summit Creek.

_Tuesday, 25th_--I took a walk in the morning about three

miles and ascended a beautiful height, which afforded a fair view

(with a telescope) of the head of Utah Lake and the valley of Salt

Creek, which enters the lake through an extensive meadow at the

head of the lake, forming at its junction a beautiful harbor and a

convenient beach of sand. The depth of water not known, but its

deep blue color intimated sufficient depth for small crafts.

About two miles west of an encampment on Summit Creek I

discovered a beautiful and inexhaustible stone quarry of blue lime,

which, both for building and lime, will be very useful and

convenient to the settlement which will soon grow up on that

beautiful site.

Returning to camp, we journeyed eleven miles to Willow Creek the

country being rich in grass, and watered by Salt Creek, a stream of

one and a half rods wide, and several large springs running north

into Utah Lake.

_Friday, 28th_--I ascended a ridge of mountains, and

obtained a view of an extensive country to the west, composed of

desert plains, hills, and confused fragments of broken mountain

chains, without fertility or anything to redeem or enliven this

landscape except the windings of the Sevier River and narrow,

grassy bottoms. And even this scene soon loses itself amid the

black and barren hills of the dreary waste.

This day we passed through about ten miles of waste country,

with some grassy spots and cedar groves, and encamped on the Sevier

River.

_Saturday, 29th_--We passed the ford, three feet deep and

one hundred and fifty feet wide--a smooth and sluggish current--and

encamped on its southern bank.

The weather bad, with squalls of snow and cold winds. The hills

afford some scattered bunch grass, which is very good.

_Monday, 31st_--We traveled thirteen miles through a pass

where the hills were very rich in grass and fuel, and full of fine

stone quarries. This pass was five miles from the river.

Thence through a valley rich in grass and soil, beautiful and

extensive, and abundantly supplied with fuel on its borders, but

destitute of living streams, although the melting snows of its

bordering mountains supply some streams which run a short distance

at certain seasons of the year, and then sink.

_April 1st_--Camp divided for convenience of travel, and

General Rich and myself, with twenty-three wagons, traveled

thirteen and encamped at a beautiful spring brook, among grassy

hills, interspersed with cedar, like an orchard.

Our road to-day led through a pass in the mountains by a gradual

assent for about three miles, and then down very gradually for ten

miles among hills, plains and little vales, more rich in bunch

grass and cedar fuel, and more varied and beautiful than any other

country I ever beheld. Every high hill, every dell, every vale or

nook seemed richly coated with a living green of rich grass, and

set about with cedars from twelve to twenty-five feet high, like an

old orchard.

Its northern bounds, limited by a rocky and barren range of high

mountains through which we had passed.

Its eastern limit was a snowy and timbered range, which divides

between the valley where we were and the Sevier River, which heads

in the south, near the rim of the Great Basin, in a beautiful

salmon trout lake, surrounded with lofty pines and cedars, and runs

in a northerly direction, till it sweeps round to the west and

southwest, and forms a lake which is in view from our camp, and

appears like a silver mirror at some thirty or forty miles

distance.

I arose in the morning, and with my large telescope viewed from

an eminence the vast country before me.

On the east the high mountain chains at several miles distance

appears snowy and timbered, and pierced with gorges accessible for

roads to be made to the timber; and giving rise to several streams

which meander though this vast valley on our south and west, and

enter the lakes or sinks in their own rich alluvials.

To our southwest and northwest the view is almost boundless;

consistent of a vast valley interspersed with fertile meadows,

desert spots, known by their darker hues; lakes, rivulets,

distinguished by the yellow meadow grasses and red willow streaks;

and hills here and there dotted with cedars, and the whole bounded,

in the vast and dim distance, by dark mountains not very high.

Beyond which, at the distance of perhaps a hundred miles, appear

other and more lofty peaks white with snow, and looking up like

distant white clouds on the horizon.

Here are resources for farming, stock raising, fuel, etc., in

sight of present encampment, probably more than sufficient to

sustain the present population of Rhode Island; and yet, not a

domestic animal, except those of the passing traveller, or a human

being, save the occasional savage in his wanderings, occupies any

portion of this wide domain.

Crossing several streams in the same large valley, all bordered

by lands, we at length left the valley and journeyed two miles over

a hilly country, well supplied with cedar and shrub pines for fuel,

and bunch grass for feed, but not well watered.

Thence a few miles over a worthless country to the Beaver River.

This is a large stream, swift and clear, running in several

branches through a large and fertile bottom; the soil of which

appears rich, but highly impregnated with saleratus, and the table

lands, which surround it, barren or nearly destitute of pasturage.

However, I think the place worthy of settlement, and, probably,

containing eight or ten thousand acres of land which may be watered

and cultivated.

Leaving this place, we passed another long stretch of upland,

destitute of all resources, except grass and fuel, which were

abundant in places.

We were at length met by G. A. Smith and others, from Little

Salt Lake settlement; and accompanied by them, we all arrived on

Red Creek, in the same valley. Here the camp found water and grass

to refresh themselves after so wearisome a journey.

_April 10th_.--Same evening I arrived in the fort,

accompanied by the citizens, who came out to meet us. I found the

inhabitants all well, and the settlement in a truly flourishing

condition. Hundreds of acres of grain had been sown, gardens

planted, etc., and the farming land nearly enclosed; together with

a most substantial saw mill, and many houses of wood and of sun

dried brick, built and in progress. Building materials consisting

of timber of the finest quality, viz.: pine, fir and cedar,

together with good building stone and brick, were scattered in

profusion in every direction.

Water ditches were flowing for mills and irrigation purposes in

many directions.

Mechanics' shops were in operation; such as joiners, carpenters

millwrights, coopers, blacksmiths, shoemakers, etc.

All this was the work of two or three months, in winter and

early spring; not to mention a large enclosure of pickets in the

center of the fort--a council house of hewn timber, and a bastion

of the same material.

The number of men composing the settlement and performing all

this work, did not exceed one hundred and twenty all told including

old men, boys and Indian servants, just being tamed and initiated

into the first rudiments of industry.

All the camps moved from Red Creek and encamped near the fort,

where we tarried a few days.

_April 12th_.--Celebrated my birthday by a feast jointly

provided by us and G. A. Smith, at his house. Ten or twelve persons

sat down to a sumptuous repast.

_April 14th_.--We removed to Summit Creek--distance seven

miles. Here we tarried one week, in course of which the rear camp,

headed by Amasa Lyman, arrived in good condition.

_Sunday, 20th_.--All met in a general assembly, to

worship God and to edify one another; being joined by the people

from the fort, we had a good time. The Spirit was poured out upon

us. G. A. Smith and others spake with power in the Spirit and

testimony of Jesus; rebuking iniquity, worldly mindedness,

unbelief, profanity, and all manner of iniquity, and exhorting the

people to obey the servants of the Lord in all righteousness.

As the meeting was about to close P. B. Lewis, who lived in this

settlement, was set apart by prayer, prophecy and the laying on of

hands of the four Apostles present, as one of the Pacific

missionaries. He had already moved into camp with his wife and

teams, etc., to accompany us. We travelled eight miles to a stream

called Coal Creek. Encamped and built a bridge across the deep and

narrow channel, about four feet wide, and tarried here next day for

the remainder of our company, some of whom had failed to obtain

their animals the day before.

This encampment was about ten miles below the crossing of the

same stream on the old road. I had, however, looked out a new

route, which would save some eight or ten miles.

This stream forms a rich meadow bottom, of about fifteen miles

long and two broad.

Abundance of cedar fuel and rich pasturage is found on the table

lands which border this bottom; and iron ore abounds a few miles to

the southwest, not to mention a large cottonwood grove in the upper

part of the meadow, and a canyon opening into the mountains, from

which the stream issues. Taken all together, this place combines

materials for a large settlement.

_Wednesday, 23d_, we travelled twenty miles without

water, over hills and plains, and among forests of cedar, and

encamped after dark at a spring, having regained the old road a few

miles before encamping.

While the cattle were feeding I ascended an eminence, and, with

my telescope, viewed the largest valley I had ever seen in the

great basin. It might have been seventy miles from south to north,

and thirty miles from east to west.

Some signs of water and rich and fertile spots appeared in the

dim distance; but, generally speaking, it was a cheerless monotony,

without water, and clothed in the leaden hue of the desert.

We travelled several miles over a fine table land, on east of

said valley, which still stretched away some thirty miles to the

west, and was finally bounded by a low range of mountains on its

south and west, and these again were backed by a still higher range

and white with snow. Their lofty peaks, at fifty or sixty miles

distance, peeping up from behind the nearer hills like distant

clouds on the far off horizon.

After passing a few miles of very hilly road we came down upon a

small stream, which heads in numerous spring meadows near the rim

of the basin, on the divide between it and the Colorado. Here we

camped to rest on Saturday and Sunday.

This little mountain paradise was, by the present road, three

hundred and eleven miles from the Great Salt Lake City, and was

altogether the most beautiful place in all the route. Some thousand

or fifteen hundred acres of bottom, or meadow lands, were spread

out before us like a green carpet richly clothed with a variety of

grasses, and possessing a soil both black, rich and quick--being a

mixture of sand, gravel and clayey loam, and the decayed

visitations of ages. It was everywhere moistened with springs, and

would produce potatoes, vegetables and the smaller grains in

abundance without watering.

The surrounding hills were not abrupt, but rounded off,

presenting a variety of beauteous landscapes, and everywhere richly

clothed with the choicest kind of bunch grass, and bordered in

their higher eminences with cedar and nut pine sufficient for fuel.

Afar off, behind the hills in the east, could be seen from the

eminence high, snowy mountains, black in places with tall timber,

plainly distinguishable with the telescope, probably from ten to

twenty miles distance.

_May 13th_--We encamped at a large spring, usually called

the Vegas--having travelled nearly two hundred miles since the

foregoing was written. The country through which we have passed is

a worthless desert, consisting of mountains of naked rock and

barren plains, with the exception of here and there a small stream,

with feed sufficient for our cattle.

The longest distance without water is about fifty miles, which

we passed on Saturday and Sunday last, and arrived here safe and

without much suffering. We have as yet lost no cattle through

hunger, thirst, or fatigue. Two cows were stolen from us by the

Indians on the Rio Virgin.

The place where we now are is about two hundred and fifty miles

from the coast settlements on the Pacific. It is well watered,

abundance of grass, and would admit of a small settlement--say one

or two hundred families--has a good soil, good water and fuel, but

no building timber.

The same remarks would apply to the last stream, fifty-three

miles from this, called the Muddy. The Indians already raise wheat

and corn there.

_Wednesday, 21st_--We encamped at a place called Resting

Springs, where we arrived on the 19th after dark.

This is a fine place for rest and recruiting animals being a

meadow of rich grass and sufficiently extensive to sustain

thousands of cattle. The water is sufficient for all travelling

purposes, although the stream is small.

Since leaving the Vegas we have travelled seventy-five miles

through a most horrible desert, consisting of mountain ridges and

plains of naked rock, or sand and gravel, and sometimes clay,

destitute of soil or fertility, except a few small springs and

patches of grass.

The weather, contrary to our expectations, has been universally

cool since we left the Muddy; thick vests, and sometimes coats,

have been worn in the noon of a sunny day, and the sun has been

sought rather than the shade. The nights have all been cool, and

some of them as cold in the middle or latter part of May as the

nights usually are in March and April in Great Salt Lake City.

Twenty miles from the Vegas, our camp was assailed in the

evening, ten o'clock by a shower of arrows from the savage mountain

robbers; some of which passed near men's heads and all fell

promiscuously among men, women, children and cattle, but did no

injury. Our men mustered and returned the fire without effect.

Afterwards, in the same place, a savage, single handed, made his

way among the cattle, in open day, while they were under the care

of armed herdsmen and shot an ox and a mule; one was wounded in the

hip, and the other in the leg; but they are both doing well.

_Friday, 23d_.--Provided with water and hay we travelled

on fourteen miles. Road heavy, up hill and sandy; day hot. Arrived

at Salt Spring gold mines towards evening; water brackish; but

answered for stock and use.

After resting for a few hours we started on in the evening and

travelled all night, with the exception of short intervals of rest.

The hot day and heavy road had so harassed the cattle that we made

but little progress.

Next morning we continued to travel, finding no grass nor water.

The road was up hill for ten or twelve miles, and rough; the day

rather cool.

Long before night our hay and water were consumed, and the camp

in a suffering condition. Some cattle had given out entirely; and

fifteen or twenty miles still intervened between us and water, and

without grass sufficient to feed a goat. Six or eight miles of the

way was still up hill. This was the most trying time of all.

At dark, about fourteen miles from water, _our ten_ was

behind, and my two wagons were the rear of all; and some of my oxen

had already failed. We still rolled slowly, resting every few

minutes. We soon found the different portions of the camp ahead,

halted, and lost in slumber--every man and beast, by common

consent, sunk in profound slumber, and probably dreaming of water

and feed ahead.

We, viz., _our ten_, with some exceptions, slipped

quietly past them, and resting often and a few minutes at a time

continued to roll. The night was cool, and a miraculous strength

seemed to inspire the cattle.

At sunrise next morning we arrived at the Bitter Springs; the

water of which was about as palatable as a dose of salts.

The other camps followed us in, and by ten o'clock all were in,

except three oxen left by the way, and two wagons with their loads,

left twenty miles back.

Men and animals were so exhausted that, after digging and

improving the water, and a general watering, it was ten hours or

more before the cattle were driven to what little feed there was, a

mile or two distant.

I rode back ten miles and carried water and feed to two animals,

and tried in vain to drive them in.

In this desert we had travelled, without much intermission, two

days and two nights; during which we had no feed nor water,

excepting that which we carried with us, and the Salt Springs, and

the Bitter Springs, and a little dry feed to refresh upon after

this toil women and children, young and old, and old men walked on

foot day and night.

It was certainly the hardest time I ever saw; but we cried unto

God, and in the name of Jesus Christ asked Him to strengthen us and

our teams, and He did so in a miraculous manner, and we were saved

from the horrors of the desert.

_Wednesday, 28th_. We arrived on the Mohave River in the

evening, in an exhausted condition; having travelled thirty-one

miles without water or much rest. The day had been warm and some

two or three cattle gave out, and were left by the way.

At this camp we found plenty of water, timber, soil and grass.

Those appointed to the Pacific mission (with the exception of

Brother Hopkins, who said he should not fill the mission), now took

leave of Brother Rich and company, and travelled twelve miles up

the Mohave, and encamped in a pleasant place, with water, feed and

fuel.

June 1st.--Rested Sunday. At two o'clock had a prayer meeting in

the shade of some trees. All the members of the mission offered

themselves in prayer, acknowledging their faults and imperfections;

seeking the remission of the same; renewing their covenants with

God and with each other; and giving thanks to Him for deliverance

from the perils of the desert, and praying that God would

graciously open the way for the further prosecution of the

appointed mission. All seemed renewed in spirits, faith and union,

and felt blessed of the Lord.

Passing on our journey over one hundred miles we came to a fine

farm, which had wheat and other grain, gardens, and even bearing

fruit trees, etc. We also found a member of our society by the name

of Crisman, who, with his family resided on the place. We were

kindly received, and after resting a few days, obtained a team, and

Brother Wood went to Los Angeles, thirty miles, to obtain supplies

to send back. We sent a load of supplies to the companies on the

Mohave River, and then moved our camp to brother Crisman's, where

we arrived at noon, and were received with welcome; and all

rejoiced that our desert and toilsome journey was at an end. Having

rested the last week, every man who was with me as a fellow

missionary accompanied me to the lone hills, about one mile from

camp, where in solitude we joined in prayer with all the energy we

possessed; praying in turn, and asking our Father in Heaven, in the

name of Jesus Christ, to open our way, to guide us in wisdom in our

duties, to give us the gift of the Holy Ghost, bind to supply us

with means to proceed on our journey in His own way, and in His own

time.

We also remembered our families before the Lord, and all the

authorities and interests of the kingdom of God.

Selling some of our cattle and one wagon, we journeyed seventeen

miles and encamped on a small stream near some hills of wild oats,

which served us for feed. We also pulled several bundles to fill

our beds, and to take with us to Los Angeles, where we arrived in

the evening of the 16th of June.

Several Americans called on us, conversed in a friendly manner,

and seemed much interested in the Mormon settlement about to be

made. More particularly as to the additional security this

population would afford to the peace and order of a distracted

country.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

------------------------

Los Angelos:--Catholic Celebration of Corpus

Christi:--Arrival in San Francisco:--Letter to President Brigham

Young:--Family Letter.

Los Angeles is a fertile, well watered, and delightful valley of

vineyards and orchards, with a fine old Spanish town--a mixture of

American, European, Spanish and Indian population--and has been

cultivated for eighty years.

_Thursday, 19th_.--I attended the Catholic celebration of

Corpus Christi, and witnessed perhaps five hundred people of all

ages, sexes and colors, the Indian blood prevailing--three priests

at their head--performing the various ceremonies. The ladies in the

finest dresses I ever beheld in any country, consisting of silks

and satins of various figures and extreme costliness; white muslin,

cambric, etc., made in full dresses, together with costly silk and

satin shawls worn over the head and enclosing the shoulders, bosom

and waist, leaving only the face in view; while all other portions

of their persons were buried beneath the rich and ample folds of

costly apparel.

In these costly robes every female knelt or sat on the filthy

floor of earth in the old church for hours! No seats, carpets, or

spreads of any kind; while various images were exhibited in turn,

and were worshipped in humble postures, and with low chants, amid

the discharges of cannon and crackers, the beating of drums, and

the tinkling of bells.

Clouds of incense rose before each image, and perhaps one

hundred candles were burning at midday. All the men were also

dressed in their best and knelt in a devout manner, or stood in a

reverent posture with hats off.

Not one changed place, or was seen to leave the church, although

the services lasted for hours, without one seat or other

convenience whereon to rest.

This ended, all formed in procession and moved around the public

square, beneath the beautiful arches richly decorated, and the walk

lined on each side with green branches.

At proper distances were placed images amid costly decorations,

before which all fell upon their knees, and remained for a length

of time prostrated in the thick dust with all their finery,

chanting hymns, praying and worshipping, while crackers were

discharged in profusion. Even all the spectators must stand in the

broiling sun in the roads uncovered, or give great offense.

In a few days Brother Wood returned from the rear camps where he

and Brother Allen had been with provisions. Reported all well and

prosperous. Brothers Lyman and Rich also paid us a visit, and some

others.

Brothers Hammond, Perkins, Wood and Murdock with their baggage,

etc. started for the landing at San Pedro. The remainder tarried to

complete their sales.

_Sunday, 29th_.--I preached in the court house in Los

Angeles to some forty attentive persons, mostly American gentlemen.

_Monday, 30th_.--I sold my last wagon and moved down to

the Port at San Pedro. Found that portion of the brethren well who

went down before, and camped with them on the beach.

_July 7th_.--We embarked on board the steamship Ohio, and

set sail for San Francisco, at 4 o'clock P. M.

After four days' rather rough passage, we arrived in San

Francisco on the 11th inst. at eleven o'clock, A. M. Found some

good brethren who rendered us assistance in various ways. Rented a

house the same day, and all moved into it together.

Brothers Lyman and Rich arrived per steamer Goliah. We visited

and received visits.

_Sunday, 20th_.--I preached at eleven A. M. in a large

room, a goodly number of persons out to hear, and good attention.

Next morning we repaired to the water and baptized eight persons,

and the same evening met at the house of Brother Winner and

organized a branch of the Church, confirming the above persons.

I was chosen president of this branch, and Philo B. Wood, clerk.

The remainder of the week devoted to writing and instructing

inquirers who called.

I wrote the following letter to Elder Addison Pratt, Society

Isles:

SAN FRANCISCO, _July 26, 1851_.

DEAR BROTHER PRATT: My long contemplated mission to the Pacific

has at length become a reality. I am here, having left home in

March last. Eight of us are here, and will go to the Sandwich

Islands and elsewhere as the way opens and the Spirit directs.

Brother P. B. Lewis and wife would have sailed for your islands

with letters, etc., but Brothers Clark and Thompkins having

arrived, we concluded to send no more laborers to that part of the

vineyard at present.

I hold the presidency of all the islands and coasts of the

Pacific, under the direction of the First Presidency of the

Church--to open the door to every nation and tongue, as fast as the

way is prepared and the Lord directs, for the preaching of the

gospel of salvation.

As president of that part of the vineyard you will preach the

gospel to every people as fast as possible. Send men to the

Friendly Isles, or to any other groups where the way may be open,

and as circumstances will permit, as you are led by the Holy Ghost.

If you need more laborers send to me at this place. I am well known

here, and making some progress. Also make your report to me from

time to time, and ask such counsel as you may need.

Elder Philip B. Lewis will sail for the Sandwich Islands,

accompanied by his wife, Brother Hammond and wife, and Brother

Woodbury and wife. He will have the presidency of those islands. It

would be well if you would correspond with him.

The work is prospering wonderfully in Deseret, England, Wales,

Scotland, Switzerland, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, etc. Several

young men are with me who will go to Chili and Peru in due time.

Bishop Murdock will also go soon to the English Colonies in New

Zealand, Van Dieman's Land, or New Holland, if the Lord will.

Our instructions to the elders abroad, everywhere, are to seek

the Spirit and gift of the Holy Ghost, by humble prayer and faith

and good works. Also, to take no part in government matters, except

to uphold and obey the authorities and laws of every nation where

they may labor, and teach others to do so.

The laws of the country we are in will govern us in all things

consistent with liberty of conscience, freedom of speech, etc.

With sentiments of love and good will I subscribe myself,

Your brother in the gospel,

PARLEY P. PRATT.

SAN FRANCISCO, July 26, 1851.

_To His Majesty_ KING KAMAHAMAHA _and the People of

the Sandwich Isles_. GREETING:

I beg leave to introduce to the favorable notice of your Majesty

and subjects, and to commend to your protection, hospitality and

kind consideration the following persons, who go out as

missionaries and residents to your country:

Elders P. B. Lewis, Francis A. Hammond and Stillman Woodbury,

with their wives.

These persons are from Great Salt Lake City, Utah Territory, U.

S., and have been selected by the Presidency of the Church of Jesus

Christ of Latter-day Saints to fulfil a mission to the Pacific.

Mr. Hammond is a former resident and artisan of your kingdom,

and we trust is favorably known to your Majesty and some of his

fellow citizens. We can confidently recommend these gentlemen as

men of good character, and men who bring good news, peace and good

will to man.

With sentiments of high consideration and esteem for your

Majesty and the people of your realm, I have the honor to subscribe

myself,

Your humble servant and the friend of man,

P. P. PRATT,

_President of the Pacific Mission of the Church of Jesus

Christ of Latter-day Saints._

I here give a few extracts from a letter to President Brigham

Young:

SAN FRANCISCO, August 28, 1851.

PRESIDENT YOUNG.

_Dear Brother_: I am well, or rather so as to be able to

perform my daily duties, although not in good health.

I arrived in this place some time in July, together with those

who accompanied me on the mission. * * * * * * If the Presidency

wishes to make any communication on any subject, letters addressed

to me at San Francisco, California, will be forwarded to me to

Chili, or elsewhere, as I shall not leave this place without

appointing an agent to receive and forward all papers and

communications.

The Sandwich Islands are at peace, and enjoy a free government.

We have sent to those islands three additional missionaries who

sailed on the sixth day of August for the Port of Honolulu. P. B.

Lewis is appointed to preside over that mission.

* * * * Since I have arrived here I have been diligent in the

duties of my calling every hour, and have called upon God for His

Spirit to help me with all the energy I possessed, and without

ceasing. The result is, the Spirit of the Lord God has been upon me

continually, in such light, and joy, and testimony as I have seldom

experienced.

Brothers A. Lyman and C. C. Rich have been here with me some of

the time; we have called together the old members and others, and

preached repentance and reformation of life. We have re-baptized

many of them, and have re-organized the Church. Several new members

are being added--some of whom are young people of the old members,

and others are strangers from different countries. We are upwards

of fifty members in number. We have preaching twice a day on

Sundays in a large theatre in the center of the city, and prayer

meetings on Sunday and Thursday evenings. Strangers give good

attention. The members feel well, and are full of faith and the

good Spirit, and the Spirit is poured out till our hearts are full.

I expect to leave this country soon for South America, unless I

should be able to go to New York, _via_ the Isthmus, to get

some books printed.

I am studying Spanish with all diligence, and will, I trust,

master it in the course of a few months.

Now, my dear brethren of the Presidency, accept this

manifestation of my remembrance, good wishes and determinations,

and rest assured you are always upheld by my prayers and good

wishes. I want your prayers--your continued confidence, and your

good wishes and fellowship. I want the Spirit of God and His angels

to be with me; and I fear not earth, nor hell, nor men, nor devils,

nor death. I desire power to do good continually, and to bring

about the restoration of His people. I glory in my calling. I would

not exchange it for any other position or calling on this earth.

I hope to come home by and by and see you all, and see the

preparations for the ordinances and powers of Heaven in your midst

in state of forwardness; such as peace, union and diligence can

alone produce. So farewell.

With my best wishes and prayers,

Your brother and laborer in the truth,

P. P. PRATT.

During my stay in San Francisco I wrote a proclamation of the

gospel addressed to the people of the coasts and islands of the

Pacific, which was afterwards published by Elder Wandell in

Australia. I also commenced the book entitled _Key to Theology

_. At a public meeting of the Saints, Elder George K. Winner

was unanimously chosen and set apart to preside over the San

Francisco branch--myself being honorably discharged from the duties

of the same, with a view of a mission to Chili.

I then spoke of my duties to other parts of the Pacific; was

honorably discharged from the presidency of the branch with a vote

of thanks, and a sum of money, amounting in all to fourteen hundred

and ten dollars, was then and afterwards subscribed to assist me on

my mission.

_Sept. 5_.--I sailed for Valparaiso, Chili, on board the

bark Henry Kelsey. After a tedious and disagreeable passage of

sixty-four days, arrived safe in Valparaiso, Nov. 8th, accompanied

by my wife and Elder Rufus Allen, all in tolerable health.

Found the country in a state of civil war, and most kinds of

business at a dead stand--men's hearts failing them for fear.

I then finished the following letter which I had commenced on

the sea:

SHIP "HENRY KELSEY," PACIFIC OCEAN,

Lat. 24 N., lon. 115 W.,

Sept. 15, 1851.

_Dear Family_--Here we are on the deep, bound for Chili,

S. A.--self, Phebe and R. Allen. We sailed from San Francisco on

the 5th inst. Have had fine weather, excepting three days, in which

we were becalmed; and have sailed more than eleven hundred miles.

We are now running before the wind seven miles an hour. We have all

been sea sick, and have not yet recovered in full. We are the only

passengers, and have the cabin to ourselves, except at meals. We

study Spanish every day. It is a beautiful language, and

wonderfully adapted to the simplicity of the Lamanites. I hope to

master it during the passage and a few months' residence among the

Chileans.

We pay sixty dollars for passage in the cabin, and found. We

expect to be two months in going.

Well, dear ones, six months have passed, and their events been

recorded in the records of eternity since we parted; all this time

I have had not one lisp from you. Oh, how lonesome! Just imagine

the monotony. Sky and sea! Sea and sky! Night and day! Day and

night! Infinitude of space! Boundless waste! Emblem of eternal

silence! Eternal banishment! Eternal loneliness, where the voice of

the bridegroom and of the bride are not heard. Where the holy music

of children's voices, in joyous merriment, falls not on the ear;

where no changing or varied landscape relieves the eye; where no

vegetation, or leafy bower, or sweet blooming flower cheers the

senses, where no birds tune their soft notes of praise announce the

dawn, or sound the requiem of the closing day.

Even the fierce and ravenous beast of the desert (which, in his

native solitude, announces with doleful and prolonged howls the

midnight hour, or wakes the weary traveller at early dawn, and

gives the signal for another day of thirst, and toil, and

suffering) is lacking here.

On this boundless waste of waters there is seldom anything to

break the monotony of eternal silence, or, rather, of the roar of

the waves as they break in increasing foam upon each other, or

against the vessel's side.

Thanks for that promise, "_There shall be no more sea_."

Thanks for the hope that all the elements of nature will one day be

adapted to the enjoyment or occupation of intellectual life, or

social and sympathetic existence.

Just imagine sundown, twilight, the shades of evening, the

curtains of the solitary night gathering in silent gloom and lone

melancholy around a father who loves his home and its inmates; his

fireside and the family altar! Behold him standing leaning over the

vessel's side as it glides over the waters of the lone and

boundless Pacific, gazing for hours in succession into the bosom of

its dark abyss, or watching its white foam and sparkling spray!

What ate his thoughts? Can you divine them? Behold, he prays! For

what does he pray? For every wife, for every child, for every near

and dear friend he has on earth, he prays most earnestly! most

fervently! He calls each by name over and over again, before the

altar of remembrance. And when this is done for all on earth, he

remembers those in Heaven; calls their names; communes with them in

spirit; wonders how they are doing; whether they think of him. He

calls to mind their acts and sufferings in life, their death and

the grave where sleeps their precious dust.

This done, he prays for Zion, Jerusalem, Judah, Israel, the

Church, the Holy Priesthood, the resurrection of the just, the

kingdom and coming of Messiah, the end of war, and sin, and death,

and wrong, and oppression, and sorrow, and mourning, and tears; and

for earth, and Heaven, and God, angels and men, to be joined

forever in the bonds of eternal peace, and love and truth.

This done, he commends himself, the vessel and his all on board

to God, and to the guardianship of his good angel. Amen. Walks the

deck a few minutes, examines the sails, the speed of the vessel,

the course of the wind, and then retires to rest to dream of home.

_October 5th_.--Coast of Peru, S. A., lat. 3 deg. 30 m.

S. A month passed on the ocean; much head wind, some calms, and

more or less sickness has attended us by turns until the present.

We have not been able to read, write, or study much, therefore the

time has passed off very tediously indeed.

We have a miser for a captain, who thinks more of a sixpence

than he does of our lives or even of his own. He will not suffer

the steward to cook potatoes, bread, pies, puddings or any other

wholesome food, but keeps us on hard, mouldy bread, full of bugs

and worms, and on salt beef and pork--the pork being rotten. He has

flour, potatoes and good pork, but will not allow it to be used;

thus you will readily perceive that we ate truly in unpleasant

circumstances.

Last evening we came near a shipwreck, having run near the land

without knowing it, and it fell calm. The ship became unmanageable,

and was drifting on to the shore, but we cast anchor and awaited

the light of morning, when we got under weigh with much labor, and

stood again to sea.

FRENCH HOTEL, Valparaiso, Chili, S. A.,

November 9th.

_Dear Friends_: After a most disagreeable and tedious

passage of sixty-four days we have at length arrived in port, in

tolerable health. We landed yesterday at noon, and took lodgings

and board at a French Hotel, where we have a great variety of good

eating, and a front parlor to ourselves--price four dollars per day

for three of us. The proprietor speaks French, the clerk French,

with a little English, the landlady German, the waiter Spanish, and

ourselves English, with a little Spanish.

So you see we have a little Babel of our own, independently of

Nimrod or the great tower.

We find the country in the midst of revolution and civil war.

Two persons and their adherents fighting for power and rule.

Business is dull, living high, and doubt and uncertainty

characterizing every transaction in the various business

departments.

On Sunday we attended a meeting in a very large building. We saw

thousands of both sexes, and of all classes and ages, throng the

place, bow down on their knees and worship certain images and

paintings with much apparent devotion. No instructions were given

in any language, no music, no voice or sound, except a low,

plaintive voice in the far end of the room, not addressed to the

people, neither sufficiently loud or distinct to be understood by

them.

The worshippers were dressed in a variety of degrees of neatness

or of its opposite. Some of them wore very costly apparel, and

others were very neatly clad. All seemed full of zeal and devotion.

All bowed down on their knees in silent, solemn attitudes. All

their faces seemed disfigured with a painful and awe-stricken

solemnity. All made certain signs and motions, while they said

nothing audible, and the impression of a strange observer would be

that the image, to which every eye was turned with long and

supplicating gaze and imploring look, had no ears to hear, but was

deeply versed in the science of physiognomy, and also acquainted

with the deaf and dumb alphabet.

On inquiry, we were informed that this kind of worship prevailed

throughout Spanish America and various other countries, and that it

is called by the dignified name of Christianity, and that it is

very ancient.

From all which circumstances I infer that it must have been

instituted soon after the Church of Jesus Christ became extinct in

the Roman world, and, by some unaccountable blunder, borrowed its

name from those institutions, which it does not even resemble in

the least in any one feature save the name.

_Sunday, November 16th_. Dear friends:--During the past

week we have rented a house, purchased furniture and commenced

housekeeping. We devote almost our entire time to the Spanish

language.

Our house is in the rear of a block of buildings which fronts a

large and beautiful street, called Victoria street. It opens into a

large yard, surrounded with high walls and with other buildings,

and filled with beautiful trees, such as orange, fig, peach, pear,

etc., together with pinks and a variety of other flowers and

shrubs. Its walks and pavements are neatly swept, and the houses

around it occupied with widows, orphans, etc., of a good class of

Spanish or Chilanoes, and their kind and sociable young people and

little children.

We divide our time between reading and studying our Spanish

lessons, and chatting, visiting, reading Spanish, hearing them

read, and playing with the little ones, etc., all of which pleases

them much, and causes us to advance in the language with a rapidity

which is almost astonishing to ourselves and to them. Truly

Providence has ordered our footsteps and cast our lot in pleasant

circumstances, when we were strangers in a strange land, and among

a people of a strange tongue. Truly He has opened our way to learn

that tongue, and we can learn it if we are diligent.

Rents are high here, provisions and fuel dear. Strawberries,

oranges, lemons, etc., are in market, as well as green peas, and

other vegetables, and melons. It is, in fact, a state of advanced

spring or early summer. The peaches, pears and figs are perhaps

one-third their size on the trees, while the flowers are in full

bloom.

NOVEMBER IN CHILI

'Tis the spring of the year, all the fountains are full,

All nature is pregnant with life and with love;

A chorus of voices ascend from each pool,

A myriad of songsters enliven the grove.

To her nest in the Andes, the condor retires,

The winds from magellan no longer prevail,

And Sol, with the north breeze returning, inspires

New life on the zephyr, and love on the gale.

The forest is clad in its robes of fresh green--

Where the dove sings an anthem, his mate to decoy.

The orchard is dressed as a holiday queen,

And the rosebud is bursting with fullness of joy.

The orange, the olive, the fig and the vine

Are clothed as in Eden, with innocent bloom;

The earth is an altar of incense divine,

Exhales a sweet odor of richest perfume.

The young of the flock bound exulting away

While their dams nip the blade, 'mid the dewdrops of morn,

And groups of young children are sportive and gay;

Yet my heart, 'mid this gladness, is sad and forlorn.

I sigh for the storms of November to come,

The frost, and the snow-drifted plain I would see;

The bleak, wintry blasts of my own mountain home,

And the storm-beaten glaziere are dearer to me.

The chime of the sleigh-bell again I would hear,

The low moaning tempest in harmony roll--

It would speak of my country and kindred so dear;

Oh! this would be music indeed to my soul.

With sentiments of the most endearing affection,

I remain yours, etc.,

P. P. PRATT.

CHAPTER XLIX.

------------------------

Valparaiso:--Quillota:--Letter to President Brigham

Young.

_January 19, 1852_.

We have continued to reside in Valparaiso, and to study Spanish

diligently until this day. We make much progress, being already able to

understand in part that which we read in the Spanish Scriptures, and

in the daily papers, as well as in history. We have also gathered much

general information of the countries of Spanish America, their manners,

customs, laws, constitutions, institutions--civil, religious, etc.

Revolutions have been in progress more or less in nearly all

Spanish America during the past year.

In Chili the present revolution has ended with the loss of many

thousand lives, and without success.

In Buenos Ayres it still rages, and a great battle is soon

expected between the combined armies of Brazil and Montevideo on

the one part, and Buenos Ayres on the other--the two armies

amounting to near twenty-five thousand men each, as reported.

Priestcraft reigns triumphant in all these countries, as by law

established; and by law paid and supported--by marriages and

christening fees, forgiving sins, etc.

In Chili the charges are as follows: Twenty-five dollars for a

marriage, and one dollar for christening. For forgiveness of sins

there are various prices to suit the circumstances of the

customers.

We departed from Valparaiso in a cart drawn by oxen, and arrived

on the morning of the twenty-fifth at Quillota--a small town

situated in a beautiful and fertile valley on a river thirty-six

miles from Valparaiso.

Here we have hired a house and live with a widow and two

daughters, young ladies of fifteen and seventeen; they are very

sociable, and much pleased with us. They can read Spanish, and they

take every possible pains to teach us the language. They are very

frank and friendly, and seem a much void of guile as little

children.

I read to them in the Spanish Testament, which pleases them

much, as they have never read it.

The people in this town seem to be a neat, plain, loving and

sociable people; very friendly, frank, and easy to become

acquainted with. They are mostly white, intelligent, and good

looking; very plain and simple in dress and manners. The houses are

mostly neat and comely, and are situated on a line with the mud

walls which separate the streets from the gardens and vineyards.

The houses are built of sun dried brick, plastered and

whitewashed outside and inside; with brick floors and tiled roofs.

Many of them, however, have no floors except the earth, and but few

of them have glass windows. The streets are straight, and cross at

right angles. A clear, cool stream runs in the center of each

street, and of tall stately poplars, as well as fruit trees and

vines adorn the entire vale, both in town and country.

A mountain or round hill, perhaps 500 feet in height, rises in

the midst of the town, and is surrounded on all sides by the level

of the fertile, well watered and well cultivated plain. This hill

is near our residence, easy of access, and commands a view of the

whole valley with its farms, orchards, vineyards, towns, streets,

river and water ditches, fertile as Eden and stretching away till

lost in the dim distance; or bounded by lofty hills and mountain

chains, whose lower swells are checked with fences and houses, and

covered with flocks and herds, while their bosoms are rugged with

rocky precipices, and checkered by dark ravines, or mantled with

clouds; while the rugged summits repose in solemn grandeur on the

bosom of the clear blue sky, unobscured by clouds or any of the

gloomy shadows of the lower world.

The land of this valley is extremely fertile, and easily

irrigated by small canals from the river.

The whole taken in at one view from the summit of the center

hill, presents one of the most beautiful scenes I ever beheld in

the old or new world.

On the top of this mountain is a place for retirement and

prayer, which I intend to use every evening about sunset or

twilight. Figs, plums, pears, peaches, apples, oranges, grapes,

and, indeed, most kinds of fruit are very plentiful here. A quarter

of a dollar will purchase enough for three of us to eat in one day.

The figs and plums are sweet as honey, and will melt in the mouth.

There is not much need of other food. The grapes, peaches and

apples are not generally ripe yet.

Having dwelt in Quillota one month we returned to Valparaiso,

and on the 2d of March embarked on board the ship "Dracut" for San

Francisco; weighed anchor on the 5th of March, and sailed out of

port with a light breeze.

The following is the copy of a letter written to President Young

during the voyage from Chili to San Francisco:

SHIP "DRACUT," PACIFIC OCEAN. lat. 18.

March 13, 1852.

PRESIDENT YOUNG.

_Dear Brother_--We are well. Elder Rufus Allen, myself

and wife, sailed from San Francisco, September 5, 1851, for Chili,

S. A., and arrived in Valparaiso, November 8--passage sixty-three

days. From that time to the present has been devoted to the study

of the Spanish language and the laws, constitutions, geography,

history, character, religion, manners, customs, revolution, and

events of Chili and Peru in particular, and of Spanish America in

general.

By intense application I soon became able to read with a degree

of understanding and interest in that language. I have already read

through the Spanish Testament; while, in the same language, I have

copied in writing many of its most important passages, and have

read them over perhaps twenty times--committing some of them to

memory.

I have also read a small work, on Natural History of Chili, near

three times through, in which are many curious and important facts

in relation to the wars with that brave and patriotic nation

freemen called _Arraucanians_. These have maintained their

liberty and independence unimpaired for 300 years against the

combined powers of old Spain and of all her colonies, sustaining a

defensive war, with but little cessation, for near 200 years,

without firearms or other modern means of defense. Some of their

history I hope to translate and publish hereafter.

I have also read the Spanish school geography of Chili, and some

other works, while a constant perusal of their newspapers, and

those of Peru and Buenos Ayres, have given me a general insight

into their governments, laws, politics, religion, revolutions,

hopes, feelings and prospects.

The civil wars, and my own pecuniary circumstances, but more

particularly the want of language, prevented my travelling much in

the country, or even visiting the Arraucanians. I, however, visited

a small town in the interior, forty miles, and lived there one

month.

On the second day of March we embarked on this ship bound for

San Francisco, without a sufficiency of the language to turn the

keys of the Gospel as yet to these nations. We stayed till all our

means were exhausted and sought and prayed diligently for our way

to open; but we could neither speak the language sufficiently to

preach the gospel nor find any way to earn our living, so we found

it necessary to return to California while we still study the

language on board.

We have one fine young man in the cabin who is very useful to

us. He is a native Chilean, reads and converses fluently in

Spanish, is conversant with the Scriptures, which we read together

and converse upon. He has borrowed the Spanish Bible of me and is

reading it by course. I have told him of our doctrine, baptism,

Church persecution, settlement in the mountains, and of the Book of

Mormon. Also of the evils of adultery, drunkenness, gambling, and

other sins, and the wickedness of the Catholic abominations. He has

taken the whole in good part, and talks of going to the mountains

with us. What is very remarkable for a Chilean, he neither smokes

nor drinks. He has some means, and is going to California to make

more. We pray much in secret that God will open his heart and give

him to us for a help in the ministry.

The Chileans are a mixed race of Spanish and Indian blood--say

four-fifths Indian--consequently coarse features, black hair and

eyes, low foreheads, high cheek bones, broad faces, and in most

cases copper color in its various shades and degrees, whilst a few

are white and even fair and beautiful. In general they are ignorant

and devoted Catholics. Probably more than one-half of them can

neither read nor write. Their knowledge of arts and industry is

extremely limited. In manners they are simple, frank, and extremely

sociable and apparently affectionate but subject to a small low

meanness in their dealings, and to trifling thefts. There are,

however, many honorable exceptions to those faults or evil habits.

The Bible is not in general use among them, being prohibited by

their religion; but I found many who had read it, and all, so far

as I tried the experiment, seemed willing to hear it read. Some

said they could understand it better when I read it than when it

was read by their own natives. I spoke freely to many against their

priestcraft and errors; showed them the true mode of baptism, etc.,

which very seldom gave offense.

They frequently told me of the abominations of their priests,

and how they administered all the ordinances for money, at so much

per head. The constitution establishes the Roman Catholic religion,

supports it out of the treasury, and prohibits all others. There

is, notwithstanding this prohibition, a Church of England and an

American Congregational Church in Valparaiso.

The latter I visited and conversed with the minister. He said

there was no difficulty in landing religious books or papers and

circulating the same, although the press is not free to print or

publish any religion but the Catholic. He had imported and

distributed Bibles in Spanish, and had placed them for sale in the

book stores. Foreign books are landed _free of duty_.

The revolution which raged so violently this season in Chili

professed to be in favor of universal suffrage, and of absolute

liberty of conscience, of speech, and of the press. The masses, so

far as I am able to judge, are warm revolutionists, but they don't

like to fight. The revolution cost some 5,000 lives, and ended in a

general amnesty, without any alteration of the Government. But the

people are sanguine in their hope--they think to accomplish their

liberties in a few years.

In the provinces of Buenos Ayres a long civil war has raged,

which is now about terminating in favor of the more liberal party,

aided by Brazil.

Peru is tranquil. The public prints of Lima, its capital, have

interested me much--they are in Spanish, and I have spent days in

their perusal. The Government of Peru is much influenced by England

and the United States. Its constitution guarantees liberty of the

press, of speech, and of worship. But it seems to have remained a

_dead letter_ on these points till the present year, in

which the Congress Peruana has made a special law to carry out

these general principles of liberty, making special provision for

the liberty of other worship, and for Protestants to officiate in

the holy _sacraments of matrimony and of burial_, which is a

step ahead of even Protestant England (where all must go to the

National Church for these things).

Peru has also made a special treaty with Great Britain, in which

all these liberties are guaranteed to British subjects there. These

liberal measures have alarmed "His Holiness," the Pope of Rome, to

such an extent that he has issued his letter of disfellowship of

the Government Peruana, in which he denounces all these liberal

measures as _anti-Catholic, un-Christian and heretical_.

This official document, in the hands of the Archbishop of Peru

and of his clergy, was brought to bear with considerable power

against the liberal proceedings of the Government; but, in the

meantime, a very learned and talented man (I suppose a clergyman),

called Dr. Vigel, and many other writers come out against the Pope

in the columns of the public prints. They denounce him in no

measured terms as a usurper of more power than Peter of old, who,

they say, meddled not with governments, wealth, or any other thing,

but to preach the Gospel and catch fish.

They boldly inquire of "His Holiness" "where's Peter's salary! crown!

title! palace, etc.? where his dictations of political government?"

They then inform him that Peru is a free and independent sovereignty,

and will not be dictated to by any foreign power whatsoever. They refer

"_His Holiness_" to Simon Magus, who wished to purchase the gift of

God with money. Remind him and the public how much it has cost certain

other governments to purchase remission of sins for similar offenses,

and inquire how much poor erring Peru will have to pay to His Holiness

for the remission of the great sins she has committed in giving her

citizens the liberty to worship as they please; and to _marry, die and

be buried_ in such manner as seemeth to them good.

Such writings have a wide circulation in Peru, and are popular,

but are also opposed by lengthy replies and defenses on the part of

the more orthodox clergy. All these things go to show that the

press, as well as the mind, is beginning to exert its freedom in

the countries where, for three centuries, all intellect has slept,

and all freedom of thought been _crushed--buried_--under the

incubus of the horrid institutions of the great Mother of

Abominations.

Should Peru sustain her liberties, a field is opened in the heart of

Spanish America, and in the largest, best informed and most influential

city and nation of South America, for the Bible, the Book of Mormon,

and the fullness of the Gospel to be introduced.

Four-fifths, or perhaps nine-tenths of the vast population of Peru, as

well as of most other countries of Spanish America, are of the _blood

of Lehi_. 'Tis true they are degraded. Civilization is at a low ebb;

and modesty and virtue, in the sense they are understood among the more

polished nations, may hardly exist among them, even in idea. Yet Jesus

came not to call the righteous but sinners to repentance. The whole

need no physicians, but those who are sick.

New Granada has also revolutionized in favor of the same great

principles of liberty; while the revolution in Northern Mexico, and

other movements of a like nature in other parts, all go to show

that a door is opening more wide than can be filled very soon

_in the Spanish language_, unless God shall raise up (as in

England) thousands of native teachers of the fullness of the

Gospel.

I had much desire to go to Peru at this time; but an empty purse

and imperfect tongue, which has only barely begun to stammer in

that language, together with the want of books or the means to

print them, with other circumstances, all combined to cause me to

wait a little till I could study the language more fully; while, in

the meantime, I return to where I can communicate more fully with

the Church at home, with the various missions on the islands and

with my family, for whom I must do something as speedily as

possible, if God will open my way.

I feel as though the Book of Mormon and some cheap publications

should be translated into Spanish and printed, and then the key be

turned to these nations while a living Priesthood is accompanied by

something for them to read--even those writings which have the

promises of God, the prayers and faith of the ancients, and the

power and Spirit of God to work with them in restoring the house of

Israel.

It is in my heart to translate the Book of Mormon and some other

works, and to print the same in Spanish as soon as I have the

language sufficiently perfect. As printing is very expensive in all

parts of the Pacific, it may be wisdom, to go to England and get

some printing, and, perhaps, some stereotyping done; and also, to

bring out two or three elders from there with _English passports

_, etc. to assist in Spanish America.

As these contemplated labors would be, under the blessing of God

a furtherance of the great work of laying the foundation for the

restoration of unnumbered millions of the house of Israel and of

Joseph--even of many nations extending over a large and important

portion of the earth--I feel to labor with patience, and to take

time to prepare the way before me and before those who will, in due

time, be sent unto them in power; knowing that God, who has said

certain things, will cause those things to be performed in due

time.

If before half these things are accomplished I should return to

the valley and sit in council with you and my brethren, or even do

the translation _there_, I hope I shall not be counted a

slothful servant; for I assure you that I do all in my power, with

all diligence, and with all the prayer of faith I possess; and my

earnest desire is to be counted worthy to labor for the restoration

of Israel until it be accomplished.

I study the language all day and think of it, and even dream and

talk it aloud in my sleep, in which I sometimes learn more than in

the day. But it is no small work to become familiar with the entire

grammar, words and style of a language, so as to write for

publication.

If the Twelve Apostles will divide the European languages

between them, and each become thoroughly versed in one, so as to

translate the fullness of the Gospel and turn the keys of the same,

it will be one great step towards the consummation; for a host of

fellow laborers would soon be raised up in each to cooperate with

them, and these languages command the influence and keys of

communication with most of the nations, tribes and languages of the

earth. I trust and hope, also, that they will soon be introduced

into our University, and among the elders of Israel, in preference

to the dead languages, or of those of less consequence.

PACIFIC OCEAN, lat. 3 deg. N.

March 27, 1852.

_Dear Brother_--We have now sailed for twenty-three days

and made nearly half the passage. We are well, and the wind is

generally fair, but now and then a calm. Brother Allen and myself

still study the language with diligence, and still talk with the

Chilian, who is also reading diligently in our Spanish Bible.

The "Book of Mormon," "Voice of Warning," etc., have been the

rounds, and been read by the captain and mates; but they will not

believe in them, nor in the testimony of men or angels. However,

there is one intelligent, sober young man, who is interested much.

_April 29th_, lat. 27 deg. N.--Fifty-five days have

passed like a dreary imprisonment to us, with but little to eat. We

live on a little poor, hard bread, probably baked some two or three

years ago, and some beans, and very poor damaged salt beef and

pork. We have no flour, potatoes, sugar, molasses, rice, or other

comforts, although we pay a good price for cabin passage.

We have not had one day of good sailing in a month; it is either

calms or light head winds. We seldom sail more than from thirty to

fifty miles in twenty-four hours. We are hungry, and weary, and

lonesome, and disconsolate. But, after praying much for a fair wind

and speed, we find our prayers are not answered, and we have given

it up, and have asked our Heavenly Father to give us patience and

reconciliation to His will.

We are now some eight or nine hundred miles from port, and our

provisions (poor as they are) must fail us soon. But live or die we

trust in God and try to serve Him.

There is no one on board who fears God or regards man, as far as

we know, except one of the sailors and ourselves. The most horrid

blasphemies resound in our ears every day in the cabin and on deck,

from captain and mate together, with gambling and blackguardism.

We are shunned and hated because of our testimony, and because

our example is a reproof. But we mind our own business, and study

language and the Scriptures every day.

The young man of which I speak is a Mr. Howard, from the United

States, who is well educated, and has read our books with much

interest during the passage, and has requested to be baptized and

join the Church as soon as we land. He is not accustomed to a

seafaring life, and wishes to go to the mountains with us. He has

been brought up at school and in clerking. I think his calling is

to preach the Gospel, but I have not yet even hinted this to him.

Brethren, I want to see you all with a desire above all other

times of my life. I feel as though I wanted to sit down with you

and seek the powers and gifts of God and the powers of Heaven, even

that which shall be shed forth for the restoration of the house of

Israel.

Oh, when will the time come? When shall the veil be rent and the

full powers of the apostleship be permitted to be exercised on the

earth? It must be before long or no flesh be saved--for the powers

of darkness prevail abroad to that degree that it can even be felt

physically.

There are none who know the Lord; none who seek after the truth;

none who appreciate it when found; none who incline to cease from

sin. I had like to have said to be found abroad in the earth. To

find one is like lighting a candle and searching diligently for

food among of dungeons of darkness, death and famine.

Adieu till we land.

Your brother,

P. P. PRATT.

CHAPTER L.

------------------------

Arrival in San Francisco:--Return to Salt Lake

City:--Second Mission to the Pacific:--Articles from the Press.

After a long and tedious passage of seventy-nine days we landed

in San Francisco on the 21st of May, having suffered severely for

the last forty days for the want of proper food.

After resting and recuperating for a few days, my time was again

devoted to the ministry in the Church at San Francisco and San

Jose, and in visiting, studying language, writing to the other

missionaries, and in the preparations for our homeward journey,

until near the end of July; and I would here add, that, through the

kindness of my brethren and friends, near twelve hundred dollars in

money, mules and a wagon was contributed to assist me in my mission

and for my journey home, being given at various times after my

arrival from Chili.

I found the Saints in the above named places possessed of some

faith and kindness, benevolence and charity. They were also

endeavoring to serve the Lord, and to set good examples of life,

and they met often to worship and edify each other and as many as

came to their meetings. Many attended their meetings and listened

with interest, and some were baptized and added to the Church.

I urged the principles of the gathering with all the energy of

the gift of God within me, but seemingly almost in vain. The world

and the gain thereof seemed to have a strong hold and influence

over them. After a trial for months, I only obtained three men to

go with me, for Deseret, besides brother Allen. These were Wm.

Follett, Thomas Dual and Elisha Hyatt; with these I started on the

steamer "Sea Bird" about the last of July.

We landed in St. Pedro after three days, and on the 14th day of

August we arrived all safe in San Barnardino, where we were kindly

received by Brother Amasa Lyman and the Saints in general, whom we

found well and prosperous. We camped near Sister Rich's, and were

entertained by them very hospitably.

_Sunday, 15th_.--Met with the Saints for worship and

preached to them. It was a meeting full of interest, well attended

by both sexes; good singing, good instruction, the sacrament, and

in the afternoon a Sabbath school.

Their meeting house is large and commodious, and is used for

school purposes every day.

_August 20th_.--Brother C. C. Rich arrived in good health

from Salt Lake City with seventeen men, making their journey in

twenty-two days without loss or accident, having six wagons.

Reports well of the grass and water. Tells of much rain on the

desert and in Deseret. Brings good news of all things there, and

letters from my family, who were all alive and well.

_Sunday, 22d_.--Had a joyful meeting with Brother Amasa

Lyman, C. C. Rich and the Church. After meeting we three of the

Twelve met and appointed certain young men to study the Spanish

language, with a view to a mission hereafter, and Brother Stout to

teach a class in Spanish, in this place, to consist of such young

men.

_September 4th_.--Attended a harvest feast in the bowery,

or meeting house. The entire people made this feast, and assembled

to enjoy it. The room was richly and tastefully ornamented and set

off with evergreens, specimens of grains, vegetables, etc.

Meeting opened by prayer and singing, and a few remarks from

myself and others, after which the entire day and evening was spent

in feasting, dancing and speaking.

Every variety almost which the earth produced, or skill could

prepare, was spread out in profusion and partaken of by

all--citizens, strangers, Spaniards or Indians--with that freedom

and good order which is characteristic of the Saints.

The dances were conducted with decorum and propriety. Old and

young, married and single, grandsire and child, all mingling in the

dance so far as they chose, without a jarring spirit to mar their

peace.

With an address from A. Lyman, a few words from C. C. Rich and

myself, and benediction, we closed, about nine P.M., one of the

most interesting assemblies of the Saints in this place.

_Tuesday, 14th_.--All being ready, we took leave of the

Saints in San Barnardino, and commenced our journey at nine

o'clock, A.M. Brothers Rich and Lyman, with several other friends,

accompanied us a few miles, and ox teams and teamsters accompanied

us for three days, to haul us over the Cajon Pass, where we took

leave of them, and at evening organized our company as follows:--P.

P. Pratt and wife, Rufus Allen, William Follett, Clark Ames, Samuel

Gould, Andrew Calhoun and wife, Elisha Hyatt wife and child, Thomas

Dowel, John Hyatt, John Green, George Clark. John Green was

appointed captain of the guard. In all, eleven men, four women and

one child.

We were soon joined by five Spaniards, who had near forty

animals, mostly horses, who accompanied us for some hundreds of

miles, and joined us in guarding, etc. Their animals being poor and

unshod, we left them on the Rio Virgin. We met a company of

twenty-four emigrants near the Salt Spring.

On the Muddy our camp was thronged with near sixty Indians, in a

state of nudity, bringing with them green corn, melons, and dressed

skins for sale, or exchange for clothing. They were all good

natured and glad to see us; some of them accompanied us twenty-five

miles, held our horses, guns, etc., and assisted us up the hills.

After twenty days we all arrived in safety at Santa Clara, about

one hundred miles from the settlement in Iron County.

_October 7th_.--All arrived in safety in the settlement

in Iron County, Utah, and were kindly received and entertained by

the Saints.

I called on Sister Robinson in the twilight of evening, and

asked for the dinner which I had spoken for one and a half years

before. We were kindly received by her and others.

We tarried three days in Parowan Fort and preached to the

Saints.

Taking leave of the Saints we resumed our journey. Nothing

worthy of note transpired during the rest of the journey, which was

two hundred and fifty miles, mostly among the settlements, where we

were kindly entertained.

On the 18th, near midnight, I arrived home. I found my family in

usual health.

On my arrival home I found my wife, Mary Ann Frost, and my two

children, Olivia and Moroni, who had arrived from Maine, where they

had been for several years. The two children were glad to see me,

but their mother had for several years been alienated from me. I,

however, supported her until the following spring, when she applied

for and obtained a bill of divorce; after which, with the two

children, she removed to Utah County.

I spent the remainder of the autumn in the ministry, and in

overseeing and assisting in farming, fencing, etc.

I was also chosen a member of the Legislative Council, to which

I devoted forty days, commencing in December, 1852. Occupied with

these duties, and with the study of Spanish, the year 1852 was

brought to a close.

_January, 1853_.-This month was mostly occupied in the

legislative councils.

_April 6th_.--I attended a General Conference, on which

occasion the corner stones of the Salt Lake Temple were laid by the

First Presidency, Twelve and others. "The Temple Block is forty

rods square, the lines running north and south, east and west, and

contains ten acres. The center of the Temple is one hundred and

fifty-six feet six inches due west from the center of the east line

of the block. The length of said house, east and west, is one

hundred and eighty-six and a half feet, including towers, and the

width ninety-nine feet. On the east end there are three towers, as

also on the west. Draw a line north and south, one hundred and

eighteen and a half feet, through the center of the towers, and you

have the north and south extent of ground plan, including

pedestal."

I devoted the remainder of the season to the ministry, and to

farming, building, etc., not wholly neglecting the study of

Spanish.

At the August election I was returned to the Legislative Council

by unanimous vote, and in December following I attended its session

till the end of the year.

_January, 1854_.--Still in legislative session, which

adjourned the latter part of this month.

The remainder of the winter was spent in the ministry; in the

active duties of a Regent of the University of Deseret (being one

of a Committee on the Deseret Alphabet and a New System of

Orthography); in teaching a class in the Spanish language; in

ministering in the ordinances of the endowments in the house of the

Lord; and in studying, writing, etc.

At a General Conference, held on the 6th day of April, I was

appointed to a second mission to California. Donations were

contributed to aid me in said mission.

_May 5th_.--I took leave of my family and friends in Salt

Lake City and started on my second mission to California.

Brother Thurston, a young man who had a mission to the isles,

accompanied me. We had a small wagon, drawn by two mules.

At Provo we joined Governor Young and train on their trip south,

and travelled with them as far as Cedar City. At Parowan we were

joined by Elders Silas Smith and Brother West, who had also been

selected by the conference as missionaries to the islands.

At this place Brother Young gave me the parting hand and blessed

me; and also Brother Kimball rose up and blessed me, and, as he

gave me the parting hand, promised many good things. He said I

should be blest, and my posterity forever.

Here we parted--Brother Young and company on their return, while

I and my company proceeded on our Pacific Mission.

Near Cedar City we were joined by other missionaries, and our

company now consisted of twenty-four men and one woman.

Nothing of particular note occurred on our journey, and on June

9th we arrived safely and in good health and spirits at San

Barnardino, and were kindly entertained by Elders C. C. Rich and A.

Lyman.

After resting a few days I here left the main company and

started with Brother J. W. Stewart in a carriage for the port of

San Pedro--distance, eighty-five miles. The road was good, and we

camped out two nights and arrived on the 14th, and were kindly

received by Messrs. Alexander & Co., who kept the warehouse.

Here I unexpectedly met with a company of Saints from Australia,

under the direction of Elder William Hyde, and we mutually rejoiced

in meeting friends.

I set sail on the steamer "Southerner" for San Francisco on June

24th, and had kind treatment and passage free in cabin. We had head

winds and were driven back three times, being five days longer than

usual on the passage, arriving there on the 2d of July in safety.

In a few days I went to San Jose Valley, and at Brother Cheeney's I

found my wife Elizabeth, in very poor health--she having come on

business a few months previous. We rested a few days at Brother

Cheeney's and were kindly entertained.

We then returned to San Francisco, and about the 10th of July

the other missionaries arrived from San Barnardino. I met Brothers

Tanner and McBride, who had been on a mission to the Sandwich isles

and had returned. Brother Tanner had purchased a vessel in order to

transport the Elders both ways and to emigrate the Saints; but we

could not pay for it and fit it for sea, notwithstanding I ran in

debt to help him, so we had to sell it at a great loss.

We now commenced holding meetings, circulating books, tracts,

and in every way we could, to notify and warn the people.

I devoted the time I could spare from the ministry to writing my

history and for the press.

Some time in August, Elders George Q. Cannon, J. Hawkins, Bigler

and Farran, of the Island Mission, landed, and Brother Cannon

assisted me some forty days in copying my autobiography.