IV.

In these days of rapid travel, the transition from north to south is

exceedingly striking. Leaving London one speeds past the pleasant

Surrey fields and lanes and woodlands, and through the soft rolling

green downs, and in the afternoon and evening sees the less familiar

but not strange wide planes and poplar-fringed rivers of Northern

France, to open one's eyes next morning upon the brown sun-baked lands,

with their strange southern growths, which lie behind Marseilles; and

all day as the train thunders along the Riviera, through olive gardens

and vineyards, one has glimpses of strangely picturesque white-walled

and many-coloured shuttered towns fringing the broad bays or clustering

on the rocks above little harbours, and drinks a strange enchantment

from great vistas of lovely coast washed by blue waters and gladdened

by radiant sunshine. And on the second morning, issuing into the great

square before the station, you have your first sight of Rome.

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