WILD INDIANS, according to Governor Charles Bent, 36,950

PUEBLO INDIANS, according to enumeration, 6,524

WHITE CREOLES, according to Dr. Gregg, 1,000

MESTIZOS, " " " 59,000

AMERICANS, according to Hon. Hugh N. Smith, 1,500

-------

104,974

_Deduct_ from this for _Wild Indians_, 36,950

------

68,024

_Deduct_ from this for _Pueblo Indians_, 6,524

------

PROXIMATE TOTAL OF PURE WHITES AND MIXED RACES,[73] 61,500

The more civilized inhabitants of New Mexico resemble their parent stock

in character and manners, save that they are somewhat tinctured with the

habits of the Indian race, whose blood is mingled more or less in the

veins of all classes. The men are homely, the women pretty, and while

the former are generally condemned for their indolence, insincerity and

treacherousness, the latter are praised by all travellers for their

frank, affectionate and gentle demeanor. Very little was ever done for

education in this remote Territory, which was almost cut-off from the

civilizing influences of the rest of the world. Its governors,--either

sent by the central authorities of the Mexican Republic, or chosen by

the people themselves,--were often overthrown by bloody revolutions;

but, while in power, they used their offices as a prolific means of

enriching themselves. Their intercourse with strangers from the north,

and their facilities in fraudulently collecting or compromising duties

upon the trade of the caravans, were constantly taken advantage of by

the rapacious chiefs; nor could the national authorities attempt to

control them, for the distance of Santa Fé from the capital always made

the loyalty of New Mexico loose and insecure.[74] The governors,

judiciary, and clergy of the Territory, naturally fostered this feeling

among the people, and in many instances it was beneficial to the north

of the Republic, especially in opposing the establishment of the tobacco

monopoly and in resisting the introduction of the copper currency which

elsewhere caused so much distress and ruin.

* * * * *

The principal town in New Mexico is Santa Fé, or, as it is often written

by Spaniards and Mexicans, Santa Fé de San Francisco. It is one of the

oldest Spanish settlements in the north, and lies at an elevation of

7047 feet above the sea, in 35° 41´ 6´´, north latitude, and 106° 2´

30´´, longitude west from Greenwich, according to the observations of

Lieutenant Colonel Emory of the United States Topographical Engineers,

and of Doctors Gregg and Wislizenius. The town is situated in a wide

plain surrounded by mountains, about fifteen miles east of the Rio

Grande del Norte. Immediately west of the town a snow-capped mountain

rises up to a lofty height, and a beautiful stream of small mill power

size, ripples down its sides and joins the river about twenty miles to

the south-westward.

Santa Fé is an irregular, scattered town, built of _adobes_ or sun dried

bricks, while most of its streets are common highways traversing

settlements interspersed with extensive cornfields. The only attempt at

any thing like architectural compactness and precision, says Dr. Gregg,

consists in four tiers of buildings, whose fronts are shaded with a

fringe of rude _portales_ or corridors. They stand around the public

square, and comprise the _Palacio_ or Governor's house, the custom

house, barracks, calabozo, casa consistorial, the military chapel,

besides several private residences, as well as most of the shops of the

American traders.

[Illustration: PARROQUIA DE SANTA FÉ.]

ALBURQUERQUE is a town as large as Santa Fé, stretched for several miles

along the left bank of the Rio Grande, and if not a handsomer, is at

least not a worse looking place than the capital.

The population of New Mexico, owing to the insecure tenure of life on a

frontier which is constantly liable to the ravages of wild Indians, has

always clustered together in towns and villages. These are scattered

along the valley of the rivers, and are commonly known as the "rio

arriva" and "rio abajo" or "up stream" and "down stream" settlements.

Even individual _ranchos_ and _haciendas_ serve as the _nucleii_ of

large neighborhoods, and finally become important villages. All the

principal locations of this character lie in the valley between one

hundred miles north and one hundred and forty south of the capital. The

most important of these next to the capital, is EL VALLE DE TAOS, whose

name is derived from the Taosa tribe, a remnant of which still forms a

Pueblo in the north of the district. No part of New Mexico equals this

spot in productiveness; and although the bottom lands of the valleys

where irrigation may be easily obtained have often produced over a

hundred fold, yet the uplands throughout all these elevated plains

about the Rocky Mountains, must, in all probability, remain sterile in

consequence of the extraordinary dryness of the atmosphere. Indeed, New

Mexico possesses but few of those natural advantages which are necessary

to a rapid progress of civilization. It is a region without a single

communication by water with any other part of the world, and is

imprisoned by chains of mountains extending for more than five hundred

miles, except in the direction of Chihuahua from which, however, its

settlements are separated by a dreary desert of nearly two hundred

miles.[75]

"Some general statistics of the Santa Fé trade," says Dr. Gregg, "may

prove not wholly without interest to the mercantile reader. With this

view I have prepared the following table of the probable amount of

merchandise invested in the Santa Fé trade, from 1822 to 1843 inclusive,

and about the portion of the same transferred to the Southern markets

(chiefly Chihuahua) during the same period; together with the

approximate number of wagons, men and proprietors engaged each year:

+-------+--------+-------+------+-------+----------+-------------------------------------+

| Years.| Amount|Wagons.| Men. | Prop' | Train to | Remarks. |

| | Mdse.| | | ietors| Chihuahua| |

+-------+--------+-------+------+-------+----------+-------------------------------------+

| 1822 | 15,000| | 70 | 60| | Pack-animals only used. |

| 1823 | 12,000| | 50 | 30| | do. do. |

| 1824 | 35,000| 26 | 100 | 80| 3,000 | do. and wagons. |

| 1825 | 65,000| 37 | 130 | 90| 5,000 | do. do. |

| 1826 | 90,000| 60 | 100 | 70| 7,000 | Wagons only henceforth. |

| 1827 | 85,000| 55 | 90 | 50| 8,000 | |

| 1828 | 150,000| 100 | 200 | 80| 20,000 | Three men killed, being the first. |

| 1829 | 60,000| 30 | 50 | 20| 5,000 | 1st U. S. Escort--one trader killed.|

| 1830 | 120,000| 70 | 140 | 60| 20,000 | First oxen used by traders. |

| 1831 | 250,000| 130 | 320 | 80| 80,000 | Two men killed. |

| 1832 | 140,000| 70 | 150 | 40| 50,000 | {Party defeated on Canadian |

| 1833 | 180,000| 105 | 185 | 60| 80,000 | {2 men killed, 3 perished. |

| 1834 | 150,000| 80 | 160 | 50| 70,000 | 2d U. S. Escort |

| 1835 | 140,000| 75 | 140 | 40| 70,000 | |

| 1836 | 130,000| 70 | 135 | 35| 60,000 | |

| 1837 | 150,000| 80 | 160 | 35| 80,000 | |

| 1838 | 90,000| 50 | 100 | 20| 40,000 | |

| 1839 | 250,000| 130 | 250 | 40| 100,000 | Arkansas Expedition. |

| 1840 | 50,000| 30 | 60 | 5| 10,000 | Chihuahua Expedition. |

| 1841 | 150,000| 60 | 100 | 12| 80,000 | Texan Santa Fé Expedition. |

| 1842 | 160,000| 70 | 120 | 15| 90,000 | |

| 1843 | 450,000| 230 | 350 | 30| 300,000 | 3d U. S. Escort--Ports closed."[76] |

+-------+--------+-------+------+-------+----------+-------------------------------------+

The following valuable geographical information is derived from a

statement published by Major James Henry Carleton, United States Army,

in the National Intelligencer, and is founded on the measurements made

by Captain Alexander H. Dyer, with a viameter, during the march of

General Kearney against New Mexico.

[Illustration: SANTA FE.]

FORT LEAVENWORTH TO EL PASO, VIA SANTA FE.

Points. Distance from Distance from

place to place. Fort Leavenworth.

Fort Leavenworth to-- _Miles._ _Miles._

Upper Ferry, Kansas river, 35 35

Willow Spring, 17 52

110 Creek, 24 76

Beaver Creek, 12 88

Dragoon Creek, 8 96

Bluff Creek, 13 109

Council Grove, 12 121

Diamond Spring, 15 136

Lost Spring, 14 150

Cotton Wood, 15 165

Main Turkey Creek, 18 183

Little Arkansas, 26 209

Big Cow Creek, 21 230

Walnut Creek, 25 255

Pawnee Fork, 25 280

Cow Creek, 12 292

Fort Mann, 55 347

Crossing of Arkansas, 26 373

Sand Creek, 50 423

Lower Spring on Cimerone, 8 431

Middle Spring, 34 465

Crossing of Cimerone, 27 492

Cold Spring, 18 510

Cedar Spring, 14 524

McNee's Creek, 10 534

Cotton Wood, 10 544

Rabbit-ear Spring, 14 558

Whetstone, 24 582

Point-of-Rocks, 15 597

Red River, 21 618

Ocate, 5 623

Wagon Mound, 20 643

Rock Creek, 16 659

Mora River, 8 667

Las Vegas, 19 686

St Miguel, 23 709

Old Peco Church, 24 733

Points. Distance from Distance from

place to place. Fort Leavenworth.

Old Pecos Church to-- _Miles._ _Miles._

Santa Fé, 24 757

Alburquerque, 65 822

Peralto (The Oteros), 45 887

La Joya,

Socorro, 18 905

Ford of Del Norte, above the ruins of

Valverde,[77] 25 930

Fra Christoval, entrance of Jornada

de los Muertos, 16 946

Doña Anna (Mexican town), 95 1,041

Grove on river, 15 1,056

Brazito, 16 1,072

El Paso, 32 1,104

NOTE.--The boundary line between the United States and Mexico, leaves

the Del Norte a few miles above the town of El Paso, running west

towards the Gila.

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA.

TITLE TO THE REGION--MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT, ITS PURPOSES--CHARACTER

OF CALIFORNIA--SECULARIZATION OF MISSIONS--POPULATION IN

MISSIONS--AGRICULTURAL

STATISTICS--CATTLE--HIDES--TALLOW--HERDSMEN--TRADE--THE

WAR--CONDITION OF CALIFORNIA AT ITS CLOSE--PROGRESS OF SETTLEMENT

AND LAW--CONSTITUTION ADOPTED--ADMISSION AS A STATE--FORMER

BOUNDARIES--THE GREAT BASIN--UTAH--GREAT SALT LAKE--PYRAMID

LAKE--RIVERS--PRESENT STATE

BOUNDARIES--AREA--GEOGRAPHY--SACRAMENTO--SAN JOAQUIN--SHASTL PEAK.

The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo confirmed the title to Upper California

which the United States had gained by war. Although the geographical

position of that region, the security of its harbors, and the supposed

value of its soil, had attracted the attention of our people at an early

day, it was not imagined, at the period of the cession, that the new

territory would so soon become the nucleus of the first Anglo-Saxon

empire on the shores of the Pacific. Its rapid development was owing

rather to circumstances of an extraordinary character, than to the

commercial and progressive spirit of our citizens; but the national

energy which is always alive to individual interests, was never more

completely illustrated than by the alacrity with which all classes

rushed to the new scenes of labor, and turned to gold the soils that

Indians and Mexicans had trodden for centuries as worthless sand.

Lower California was discovered, visited, and partly settled by the

Spanish adventurers soon after the Mexican conquest, and although the

coasts of Upper California had been explored in 1542, it was not until

the eighteenth century that the "spiritual conquest" of that distant

region was undertaken by the Roman clergy, under whose directions the

missions were founded upon a "pious fund," created by the zealous

Catholics of Mexico. At that time it was supposed that the civilizing

influences of religion would not only win thousands of savages to the

worship of God, but that by blending agriculture and trade under the

tutelage of the church, the Indians might be rendered valuable subjects

of the Spanish crown. The government well knew that the Spaniards were

neither sufficiently numerous nor adventurous in Mexico to throw large

bodies of hardy men into so remote a province on the shores of the

Pacific, and it was, therefore, imagined that the actual native

population of the district might be tamed by religion to supply the

place of Christian immigration.

All the explorers who visited Upper California reported favorably on the

character of the country. It was known to possess inducements to a

profitable trade. The golden east opened its gates in front of it; and

the country was supposed to contain valuable metallic deposits which

might be slowly and surely developed. But the labors of the clergy did

not respond to the expectations of the government. The priests were

contented with present comfort rather than anxious for future success.

The mass of the Indians were brought into a state of comparative

vassalage, as we have seen in the chapter on the church of Mexico, and

all the most valuable or accessible lands were rapidly absorbed, to the

exclusion of hardy, persevering, and thrifty white men.[78]

Although the clergy were the virtual proprietors of the agricultural and

cattle raising districts, the viceroyal government contrived to retain a

loose and limited control over this district, until the period of the

revolution. In 1824, on the adoption of the federal constitution, as the

Californias did not possess sufficient population to become States of

the federation, they were erected into Territories, with a right to send

a member to the general congress, who, though suffered to participate in

debate, was not allowed to vote in its decisions. As Territories they

were under the government of an agent styled the Commandant-General,

whose powers were very extensive.

After the revolution the first progressive step was made by the

secularization of the missions. In 1833, under the vigorous lead of

Gomez Farias, the salaries of the monks were suspended, the Indians were

released from servitude, the pious fund was confiscated, the division of

property among natives and settlers decreed, and an extensive plan

proposed to fill the country by immigration. These blows fell heavily

upon the monastic farmers and herdsmen of those trading churches. The

missions were speedily deserted, their edifices and establishments

decayed, and, near the period of their close, the whole result of this

abortive ecclesiastical civilization, was summed up in the paltry

numbers exhibited in the following statement:

MISSIONS AND THEIR POPULATION IN UPPER CALIFORNIA IN 1831.

Names of the Jurisdictions, PEOPLE OF ALL CLASSES AND AGES.

Missions, and Towns. Men. Women. Boys. Girls. Total.

JURISDICTION OF S. FRANCISCO

PRESIDIO OF S. FRANCISCO 124 85 89 73 371

Town of San José de Guadalupe 166 145 103 110 524

Mission of S. Francisco Solano 285 242 88 90 705

id. of S. Rafael 406 410 105 106 1027

id. of S. Francisco 146 65 13 13 237

id. of Santa Clara 752 491 68 60 1371

id. of S. José 823 659 100 145 1727

id. of Santa Cruz 222 94 30 20 366

JURISDICTION OF MONTEREY

PRESIDIO OF MONTEREY 311 190 110 97 708

Village of Branciforte 52 34 27 17 130

Mission of S. Juan Bautista 480 351 85 71 987

id. of S. Carlos 102 79 34 21 236

id. of Na. sa. de la Soledad 210 81 23 20 334

id. of S. Antonio 394 209 51 17 671

id. of S. Miguel 349 292 46 61 748

id. of S. Luis Obispo 211 103 8 7 329

JURISDICTION ON STA. BARBARA

PRESIDIO OF STA. BARBARA 167 120 162 164 613

Mission of La Purissima 151 218 47 34 450

id. of Sta. Ines 142 136 82 96 456

id. of Sta. Barbara 374 267 51 70 762

id. of Buenaventura 383 283 66 59 791

id. of S. Fernando 249 226 177 181 833

Town of la Reyna de los Angelos 552 421 213 202 1388

JURISDICTION OF S. DIEGO

PRESIDIO OF S. DIEGO 295}

Mission of S. Gabriel 574}

id. of S. Juan Capistrano 464} 1911 683 621 5686

id. of S. Luis Rey 1138}

id. of S. Diego 750 520 162 146 1575

------ ---- ---- ---- ------

[79]Totals 10,272 7632 2623 2498 23,025

Agriculture had always been most carelessly conducted. The implements

used in the fields were nearly the same as those introduced by the

earliest settlers. The mills were few and primitive; and although the

same extent of ground yielded nearly three times as much wheat as in

England, and returned corn at the rate of one hundred and fifty fold,

yet nothing was cultivated that was not absolutely needed for the

maintenance of the missions and their immediate neighborhoods. There was

no commerce to carry off the excess of production, and no enterprise to

create a surplus for the purposes of trade.

At this epoch the whole cereal production of Upper California did not

exceed--

63,000 bushels of wheat.

28,000 " of corn.

4,200 " of frijoles or brown beans.

2,800 " of garabanzos or peas.

18,500 " barley.

The Californians, of that period, seem however, to have particularly

delighted in the care of cattle. The idle, roving life of herdsmen, who

might wander over the plains and mountains in search of their flocks,

was peculiarly suited to a population emerging from the nomadic state;

and accordingly we find that the region was well stocked, whilst the

missions and their dependencies flourished. In 1831, Mr. Forbes tells

us, that there were in this province,--

216,727 Horned Cattle,

32,100 Horses,

2,844 Mules,

177 Asses,

153,455 Sheep,

1,873 Goats,

839 Swine.

In addition to these there were vast numbers, roaming at large, which

were not marked or _branded_, according to California laws, as belonging

to any of the jurisdictions, missions, haciendas or towns. These were

hunted and slain to prevent their interference with the pasturage of the

more useful and appropriated cattle; yet from all this multitude but

little profit was gained except for hides and tallow. Beef was not

salted and prepared for foreign markets, the dairy was altogether

neglected, and butter and cheese almost unknown. In the earlier days of

the settlement, many thousand cattle were annually driven either to the

city of Mexico or to the interior provinces from the large estates on

the Pacific; but that traffic was gradually abandoned under the habitual

sloth of the people, nor was it until many years after the trade of the

ports was opened by the war of independence, that a comparatively brisk

intercourse opened with the Sandwich Islands and our own people, who

were willing to exchange their manufactures for the hides and tallow of

the Californians.

* * * * *

Such was the condition of affairs in this primitive pastoral region when

the war between Mexico and the United States broke out. For a long time

the natives and settlers had been discontented with their national

government that usurped the milder sway of the clergy; yet it is

probable that most of the revolutionary movements were founded on

personal ambition and avarice rather than patriotic impulses, nor is it

likely that the territory would have secured its independence without

the aid of a foreign power. British interests had undoubtedly counselled

the acquisition of California; but the fate of war suddenly threw it

into our hands, and probably at the very moment when English subjects

and the Mexican government were combining to exclude us from the

positions on the Pacific which were so necessary for our mercantile

progress as well as political and maritime convenience.

As soon as the country was quieted by the arrangement which Colonel

Frémont made with the Californian leaders at Couenga, the people who had

been engaged in the brief local war returned to their peaceful

avocations. Our forces were stationed in small detachments, from

Sutter's fort to San Diego, while our national vessels were anchored in

the different harbors throughout the whole coast. In the maritime towns

the supreme authorities collected a revenue from imports under the

Contribution tariff. Order was promptly restored every where; but the

only recognized control was that of the military government, which had

devolved upon Colonel Mason at the departure of General Kearney.

Meanwhile the emigration from the United States, which, amounted to

about five hundred individuals during the summer and fall of 1845, had

been considerably augmented by recruits and adventurers during the

continuance of the war. These men, as soon as hostilities ceased,

naturally turned their attention to the two most important subjects that

engage an American's attention wherever fortune may cast his lot. Their

future prospects of wealth, and the character of their government,

demanded immediate care; yet while they relied upon Congress for the

security of their political rights, they found, in spite of California's

renown for agricultural riches, that they could only establish

themselves successfully on the Pacific, or return with fortunes from its

shores, by a steady and thrifty devotion to labor.

Such was the condition of California in the spring of 1848, when the

accidental discovery of gold which might be rapidly and easily gathered

in apparently inexhaustible quantities, changed not only the condition

of the inhabitants, but affected the whole commerce of the world. "The

towns were forthwith deserted by their male population, and a complete

cessation of the whole industrial pursuits of the country was the

consequence. Commerce, agriculture, mechanical pursuits,

professions,--all were abandoned for the purpose of gathering the

glittering treasures which lay buried in the ravines, gorges and rivers

of the Sierra Nevada. The productive industry of the country was

annihilated in a day. In some instances the moral perceptions were

blunted, and men left their families unprovided, and soldiers deserted

their posts."[80]

But the greediness of the adventurers soon taught them that they could

not subsist on gold, and that after the first deposits were gathered in

the most accessible regions, it was necessary for them to wander farther

and farther from the coast settlements, until they were lost in the

lonely and barren glens of the mountains. There, at the approach of

winter, they found themselves without the means of comfort or support.

In the meanwhile, however, the news of the discovered El Dorado crossed

the continent, and although its marvels were regarded by many as

fabulous, there were others who resolved at once either to abandon their

homes for the wilderness or to despatch valuable cargoes whose enormous

profits would absorb the miner's wealth.

Under these mingled temptations of trade and discovery, an immense

immigration, chiefly of males, poured into California, not only from the

United States but from Oregon, Mexico, Chili, Peru, China and the

Sandwich Islands, all of whom soon saw the necessity of once more

subdividing human labors into their ordinary channels as well as

proportions; and thus, while commerce took the lead in the ports and

warehouses, mechanical and professional pursuits equally assumed their

relative importance, and partly restored the endangered balance of

society.

* * * * *

Within a year after this wonderful discovery, the Californians felt that

they were no longer outlying colonists of the American Union, requiring

pecuniary support from the mother State and military protection against

savages. Their lot was strangely reversed in the history of distant

settlements, for wealth had been secured _in advance_ of inhabitants and

trade. Gold, a large population, and reconstructed social relations,

brought with them the necessity for firm, fixed constitutional

government. The fermenting elements of a motly society were

effervescing, and the substratum of order and civilization was rapidly

chrystallizing. The dollar dulled the bowie knife. Immense fleets,

arriving from all parts of the world, poured large revenues into the

national coffers. Intelligent and industrious men thronged the towns

that sprang up, as if by enchantment, at every advantageous point. All

the great mercantile interests were rapidly developed. Property in land

and moveables become suddenly valuable beyond the hopes or dreams of the

early settlers. Discussions arose as to titles and rights. Spanish laws,

uncertain in their character or sanction, and American laws of doubtful

application, were hastily enforced by judges whom the wants of time

summoned to the bench from uncongenial pursuits to administer justice in

courts which were quite us incongruously constructed.

In such a state of society, men were naturally anxious to know their

relations to the Federal Government whose Congress adjourned two

sessions after the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo without legislating for

the ceded territories. It might almost have been pardoned, had

California, feeling her power, position and self-reliant resources,

asserted her independence after so much neglect. Yet, in the midst of

all these temptations, and in spite of our people's abhorrence of a

military government, there never was a more beautiful demonstration of

national loyalty and affinity than in the regular assemblage, in that

remote quarter of the world, of citizens from all our States, and of all

classes, characters, tempers, professions and avocations, to form a

republican constitution which would ensure admission into our Union.

Their military governor, it is true, had set the example of submission

to the civil power, by directing the election of delegates; but _the

people_ asserted their inherent right, independently of the military

authority; and, although they acted in harmony with their estimable

ruler, the constitution was emphatically the result of popular impulse

and judgment alone. The convention, thus assembled, met at Monterey on

the 1st of September, 1849, and closed its work on the 13th of October

by submitting an excellent constitution to the people for their

adoption. The document was forthwith disseminated in Spanish and

English, and no attempt was made to mislead or control public opinion in

relation to it. The people gave it their sanction by an overwhelming

majority, and the legislature which was elected under it, assembled at

San José, the capital of the State, on the 15th of December, 1849. Peter

H. Burnett, who had been chosen first governor of the Pacific Empire

State, was duly inaugurated, and on the 20th of the same month, the

military governor, General Riley, resigned his power into the hands of

the civil agents of the organized State. After a warm and embittered

discussion in Congress at Washington, California, with all her sovereign

rights, was finally admitted into the North American Union, on the 9th

day of September, 1850.

The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, by the transfer of Upper California as

it existed and was bounded in May 1848, conferred a magnificent domain

upon the United States. This, however, has been subdivided by the action

of Congress and the California Convention, and the new Territory or Utah

formed out of a portion of it. The original grant comprises the region

between the parallels of 32° 50´ and 40° of north latitude, and 106° and

124° west longitude, containing an area of four hundred and forty-eight

thousand six hundred and ninety one square miles, or, two hundred and

eighty seven million, one hundred and sixty two thousand two hundred and

forty acres of land. "In other words, our _original_ territory of Upper

California, embraced twelve hundred and two square miles more than the

States of Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island,

Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan,

Iowa and Wisconsin, combined!"[81]

The California Convention, in shaping their new State, thought it

advisable to diminish this unwieldy empire, a large portion of which

was, in truth, divided by the evident decree of nature from the Pacific

region. Between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, at an

elevation of between four thousand and five thousand feet above the sea

lies that singular geographical formation which was first explored by

Colonel Frémont, and is known as the Great Basin. This is now

comprehended in the Territory of Utah. It is about five-hundred miles in

diameter, counting either from north to south or east to west; and,

imprisoned on all sides by mountains, it has its own complete system of

rivers and lakes, all of which _have no outlet to the_ Oceans on either

side of the continent. Its steep interior hills and mountains are

covered with forests, and rise abruptly from a base of ten or twenty

miles to a height of seven or ten thousand feet above the level of the

sea. Many large bodies of water are confined in its capacious bosom, and

among them are the Utah and Great Salt Lakes. The shores of the latter,

extending in length about seventy miles, have been seized and occupied

by the Mormons as the seat and centre of their future State. Immense

quantities of salt are gathered from its banks when the waters of this

inland sea recede during the dry seasons of these lofty plains and table

lands. The waters of the Utah, however, are perfectly fresh; and, near

the western edge of the Basin, is found the picturesque Pyramid Lake

which is also shut in by mountains, and is remarkable for its depth and

transparent purity.

To the southward of this, bordering the base of the Sierra Nevada,

within the Basin, is a long range of lakes; while many copious rivers

disperse their water throughout its ungenial expanse. The chief of these

streams is Humboldt River, which rises in the mountains west of the

Great Salt Lake, and runs westwardly along the northern side of the

Basin towards the Sierra Nevada of California. It courses onward for

three hundred miles, without affluents, through a sterile plain, though

the valley of its own creation is richly covered with grasses and

bordered with willows and cotton wood. This remarkable stream will

become of vast importance in the travel towards California, for, rising

towards the Salt Lake, it pursues nearly the direct route towards the

Pass of the Salmon Trout river through the gorges of the Sierra Nevada,

where at an elevation of less than three thousand six hundred feet above

the level of the Basin, the pathway descends into the Valley of the

Sacramento, and penetrates the State of California only forty miles

north of Sutler's original settlement.

The other known rivers of this strange and partially explored region,

are the Carson, Bear, Utah, Nicollet and Salmon Trout, most of whose

streams, furnished by the snowy peaks of the Sierra, are absorbed in

marshes and lakes, or return by evaporation to the icy sources whence

they sprang.

[Illustration: PYRAMID LAKE.]

Such are the prominent features of this vast Basin or Table-land, in the

interior of our continent, but as it is now separated by legislation

from its former territorial adjunct, we shall pass at once to the

consideration of the present boundary of California. This, according to

the XIIth article of the State Constitution, sanctioned by the act of

Congress, commences at the point of intersection of the 42nd degree of

north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich,

and runs south, on the line of the 120th degree of longitude until it

intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence a straight line

pursues a south-easterly direction to the River Colorado, at a point

where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence, the

boundary runs down the middle of the channel of that river, to the

boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as established by

the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo; thence, west and along said boundary

line to the Pacific Ocean and extending therein three miles; thence,

north-westwardly, following the direction of the Pacific coast, to the

42nd degree of north latitude; thence, on the line of the 42nd degree to

the place of begining,--including all the islands, harbors, and bays

along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.

The superficial area of the State is reduced, according to these

boundaries, from the former enormous size, to one hundred and fifty-five

thousand five hundred and fifty square miles, or ninety-nine millions

five hundred and fifty-two thousand square acres, exclusive of the

islands adjacent to the coast.

The noble Empire State thus constructed lies west of the Sierra Nevada,

and was wisely fashioned to avoid jurisdiction beyond the mountains. It

is strongly contrasted in appearance with the sterility of the Great

Basin. Crossing the SIERRA NEVADA at the PASS traversed by Frémont in

February 1844, the traveller finds himself about four degrees south of

the northern boundary of the State, and, as he looks westward down the

slope of the mountains, the whole of California lies at his feet. The

declivities of the Sierra, with a breadth of from forty to seventy

miles, and a length from north to south of about five hundred, are

heavily wooded with oak, pine, cypress and cedar, while innumerable

small streams, rising in the melted snows of the lofty peaks, traverse

their rugged sides. These rivulets descend through glens and

gorges,--sometimes barren, sometimes luxuriant,--until they disgorge

themselves into the Sacramento and San Joaquin. The first of

these,--rising in the north at the base of the gigantic Shastl which

lifts its snowy diadem fourteen thousand feet above the sea,--sweeps

southward towards the thirty-eighth degree of latitude; while the

second, oozing from the fens and marshes of lake Tulares, runs northward

until it mingles with the Sacramento,--when both, swollen by their

tributaries from

[Illustration: SIERRA NEVADA PASS.]

the Sierra Nevada, are finally discharged into the Pacific by the bay of

San Francisco which bursts through a gap in a lower chain of mountains

bordering the coast. This western Coast Range, averaging about two

thousand feet in height, forms, with the Eastern Sierra Nevada, the

intermediate sloping plain or valley which is completely drained by the

Sacramento and San Joaquin.

[Illustration: SHASTL PEAK.]

THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA.

CONTINUED.

CONFIGURATION OF THE STATE--BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO AND CITY--RIVERS

OF CALIFORNIA--CHARACTER OF SOIL, ETC.--RELATIVE STERILITY AND

PRODUCTIVENESS--CLIMATE--DRY AND WET SEASONS--CAUSES OF

CHANGE--CLIMATE IN SAN FRANCISCO, COAST RANGE VALLEYS AND INTERIOR

VALLEY--AREA OF ARABLE AND GRAZING LAND--PRODUCTIONS--DISCOVERY OF

GOLD--ITS POSITION--THE PLACERES--WASHING--DIGGING--THE

MINES--CALCULATIONS AS TO THE YIELD OF THE MINES--GOLD YIELDED BY

CALIFORNIA--ITS QUALITY--QUICKSILVER

MINES--COMMERCE--POPULATION--GROWTH OF CITIES--OLD

PRESIDIOS--TOWNS--LAND TITLES--MISSION LANDS--CONCLUSION.

The State of California, as at present formed by its constitution, lies

chiefly between the Sierra Nevada and the sea. North and south, it

embraces about ten degrees of latitude, from 32°, where it touches the

peninsula of Lower California, to 42°, where it bounds on Oregon. East

and west, from the Sierra Nevada to the sea, it will average, in the

central parts, one hundred and fifty miles, and in the northern, two

hundred. The whole State is thus, in truth, a single geographical

formation or great valley, though commonly divided into the valleys of

San Joaquin and Sacramento--the two great streams which flow from the

north and south until they meet near the centre of the State and wend

their way to the ocean through the bay of San Francisco.

This beautiful arm of the ocean, which is pronounced by all geographers

to be one of the most wonderful harbors in the world, was discovered

about 1768 by a party of Franciscan friars, who bestowed upon it the

name of their patron Saint. Completely land-locked, it is capable of

sheltering the most extended commerce. Approached from the sea, a bold

outline of coast scenery is presented to the observer. On the south, the

bordering mountains descend in narrow ranges, lashed by the surf of the

Pacific. On the north, a bluff promontory rises full three thousand feet

above the sea, while, betwixt these points, walled in by lofty cliffs

on either side, a narrow strait, about a mile in width and five in

length, with a depth in mid channel of forty and forty-five fathoms,

forms the Chrysopolæ or Golden Gate. Beyond this, the wonderful bay of

San Francisco opens like an inland sea to the right and left, extending

in each direction about thirty-four miles, with a length of more than

seventy and a coast of two hundred and seventy-five. The interior view

of this lake-like estuary is broken in parts by islands, some of which

are mere rocky masses, while others, green with vegetation, protrude

from the water for three hundred or four hundred feet. The bay is

divided by promontories and straits into three portions. At its northern

extremity is Whaler's harbor, which communicates by a strait two miles

long with San Pablo bay, a circular basin ten miles in diameter; at the

northern extremity of this a strait of greater length, called Carquinez,

connects with Suissun bay, which is nearly equal in size and shape to

San Pablo, and into this bay the confluent waters of the Sacramento and

San Joaquin are emptied. A _delta_ of twenty-five miles in length,

divided into islands by deep channels, connects the Suissun bay with the

valley of these rivers, into whose mouths the tide flows regularly.

On the bay of San Francisco is situated the marvellous city of the same

name, which sprang up, almost "in a night," and was constructed of

materials quite as frail as those of "the gourd." The town lies about

four miles from the narrows or straits by which the bay is entered, on

its west side, and on the northern point of the peninsula between the

southern portion of the estuary and the Pacific. Its site is in a cove,

faced and protected at the distance of two miles by the large island of

Yerba Buena. The land rises gradually for more than half a mile from the

water's edge, towards the west and south-west, until it terminates in a

range of hills five hundred feet above the sea. North of the town is a

large bluff, plunging precipitously into the bay, in front of which is

the best anchorage.

The most important rivers of California are, of course, the San Joaquin

and Sacramento. The San Joaquin, running from south to north, is

represented to be navigable in some seasons for a greater part of its

length, during eight months of the year. Its chief affluents, lying

altogether on its eastern side, and pouring down from the Sierra Nevada,

are the Lake Fork, Acumnes, Tuolumne, Stanislaus, Calaveras, Mukelumne,

Mariposa and Cosumnes. The Rio Colorado of the West forms part of the

eastern State boundary, from the 35th degree of north latitude to the

Mexican line, but it flows through a region at present very little

known or valued, yet future explorations may show it to be valuable. Its

deep colored waters, similar to those of the Missouri and Red rivers

east of the mountains, indicate that it probably has not passed through

an entirely ungenerous soil. The valley of the Gila, whose waters are

clear, is known to be barren.

[Illustration: SCENERY ON THE GILA.]

The Sacramento runs from north to south through an inclined alluvial

prairie, and is described as a deep, broad and beautiful stream. It

flows through a fine region, and is navigable for vessels of

considerable draught as high as the settlements in the neighborhood of

Sutter's original location. The principal tributaries of this river,

also, originate in the melting snows of the Eastern Sierra, and are

known as the Antelope, Deer, Mill and Chico creeks, and the Butte,

Dorado, Plumas or Feather, Yuba, Bear and American rivers. Cottonwood

creek and some other smaller streams are disgorged into it from the

slopes of the Western or Coast Range. The Trinity and a few at the

north, run into the Pacific.

In order to comprehend the agricultural and mineral value of California,

it is necessary to glance at the structure of the region. Upon the

forty-first parallel of latitude, in a fork of the Sierra

[Illustration: BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.]

Nevada, is a tract of high table land, about one hundred miles in

length, surrounded on all sides by mountains, and called by Frémont the

UPPER VALLEY of the Sacramento. Here the growth of timber is vigorous

and immense, for the climate and productions are modified by altitude as

well as latitude. The Sacramento river, rising in the mountains at its

northern extremity, reaches the Lower Valley through a gorge or cañon on

the line of Shastl Peak, falling two thousand feet in twenty miles.

The LOWER VALLEY is subdivided, as we have stated, into the valleys of

the two great rivers, both of which are, at most, only a few hundred

feet above the level of the sea, and gradually slope towards the bay.

The _foot hills_ of the Sierra Nevada limiting the valleys, make a

woodland country diversified with undulating grounds and pretty vales or

glens watered by numerous small streams. These afford many advantageous

spots for farms, occasionally forming large bottoms of rich, moist land.

Below 39° of latitude, and _west_ of the _foot hills_, the forests are

limited to scattering groves of _oak_ in the valleys and on the borders

of streams; or, of _red wood_ on the ridges and in the gorges. With

these exceptions, the whole region presents a surface without shrubbery

or trees, though a few hills are shaded by dwarfed and stunted groves

which may be used as fuel. California is covered, however, with various

kinds of grasses and with wild oats, which grow luxuriantly in the

valleys for many miles from the coast, but, ripening early in the

season, they soon cease to protect the soil from the sun's scorching

rays. As summer advances, the moisture in the atmosphere, and to a

considerable depth in the earth, is completely exhausted, and the

radiation of heat from the parched plains and naked hill sides becomes

insufferable. North of the Bay of San Francisco, between the Sacramento

and Joaquin valley and the coast, the country is cut up by mountain

ridges and rolling hills, with many fertile, watered valleys.

Immediately along the coast, lie open prairies, belted or broken by

occasional forests, and interspersed with extensive fields of wild

grain. Around the southern arm of the bay, a low, alluvial bottom land,

sometimes overgrown by oaks, borders the western foot of the Coast

Range, terminating, on a breadth of thirty miles, in the valley of San

José. In this neighborhood, too, is the lovely valley of San Juan, which

is probably the garden of the new State. These two valleys form a

continuous plain of fifty-five miles in length, and from one to twenty

miles in breadth, opening with smaller valleys among the hills. The

balmy region, enclosed between the coast range and the lower hills upon

the ocean, is blessed with a soil of singular fertility, a fine, dry

atmosphere, and a soft, delicious climate. It is wooded with majestic

trees, covered with rich grasses, brilliant with an endless variety of

flowers, and produces profusely the fruits of the temperate and tropical

zones.

South of Point Concepcion the climate and general appearance of the

country are changed. From that point the coast bends almost directly

east; the face of the country obtains a more southern exposure, and is

sheltered by ranges of low mountains or hills from the bleak violence of

north-west storms. The climate accordingly is more genial, and fosters a

richer variety of productions than is found on the northern coasts.

The valleys parallel with the coast range, as well as those which extend

eastwardly in all directions among the hills towards the great plain of

the Sacramento, are of unsurpassed fertility. Their soil is a deep,

black alluvian, and so porous that it remains perfectly unbroken by

gullies, notwithstanding the great quantity of water which falls into it

during the wet season. The productiveness of "California," says Frémont

in his Memoir on that region, published in 1848, "is greatly modified by

the structure of the country, and under this aspect may be considered in

three divisions--the _southern_, below Point Concepcion and the Santa

Barbara mountain, about latitude 35°; the _northern_, from Cape

Mendocino, latitude 41°, to the Oregon boundary; and the _middle_,

including the bay and basin of San Francisco and the coast between Point

Concepcion and Cape Mendocino. Of these three divisions the rainy season

is longest and heaviest in the north, and lightest in the south.

Vegetation is governed accordingly--coming with the rains--decaying

where they fail. Summer and winter, in our sense of the terms, are not

applicable to this part of the country. It is not heat and cold, but wet

and dry, which mark the seasons, and the winter months, instead of

killing vegetation, revive it. The dry season makes a period of

consecutive drought, the only winter in the vegetation of this country,

which can hardly be said at any time to cease. In forests, where the

soil is sheltered, in low lands of streams and hilly country, where the

ground remains moist, grass continues constantly green and flowers bloom

in all months of the year.

"In the southern half of the country the long summer drought has

rendered irrigation necessary, and the experience of the missions, in

their prosperous day, has shown that, in California, as elsewhere, the

dryest plains are made productive, and the heaviest crops yielded by

that mode of cultivation. With irrigation a succession of crops may be

produced throughout the year."

* * * * *

The peculiarities of the climate of California are so well explained in

a letter from the Honorable T. Butler King, that we extract his

observations thereon as the most valuable portion of the report made by

him to the United States Government in March, 1850.[82]

"The north-east winds, in their progress across the continent, towards

the Pacific ocean, pass over the snow-capped ridges of the Rocky

Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, and are of course deprived of all the

moisture which can be extracted from them by the low temperature of that

region of eternal snow; consequently no moisture can be precipitated

from them, in the form of dew or rain, in a higher temperature than that

to which they have been subjected. They pass therefore over the hills

and plains of California, where the temperature is very high in summer,

in a very dry state; and so far from being charged with moisture, they

absorb, like a sponge, all that the atmosphere and surface of the earth

can yield, until both become, apparently, perfectly dry.

"This process commences when the line of the sun's greatest attraction

comes north in summer, bringing with it vast atmospheric movements.

Their approach produces the dry season in California, which, governed by

these laws, continues until some time after the sun repasses the equator

in September, when, about the middle of November, the climate being

relieved from these north-east currents of air, the south-west winds set

in from the ocean, charged with moisture--the rains commence, and

continue to fall, not constantly, as some persons have represented, but

with sufficient frequency to designate the period of their continuance,

as the _wet season_, from about the middle of November until the middle

of May, in the latitude of San Francisco.

* * * * *

"It follows, as a matter of course, that the _dry season_ commences

first, and continues longest in the southern portions of the Territory,

and that the climate of the northern part is influenced in a much less

degree by the causes which I have mentioned than any other section of

the country. Consequently, we find that as low down as latitude 39°

rains are sufficiently frequent in summer to render irrigation quite

unnecessary to the perfect maturity of any crop which is suited to the

soil and climate.

"There is an extensive ocean current of cold water, which coming from

the northern regions of the Pacific, or, perhaps, from the Arctic, flows

along the coast of California. It arrives charged with, and in its

progress, emits air, which appears in the form of fog when it comes in

contact with a higher temperature of the American coast, as the

Gulf-stream of the Atlantic exhales vapor when it meets, in any part of

its progress, a lower temperature. This current has not been surveyed,

and, therefore, its source, temperature, velocity, width, and course,

have not been accurately ascertained.

"It is believed by Lieut. Maury, on what he considers sufficient

evidence--and no higher authority can be cited--that this current comes

from the coasts of China and Japan, flows northwardly to the peninsula

of Kamptschatka, and, making a circuit to the eastward, strikes the

American coast in about latitude 41° or 42°. It passes thence,

southwardly, and finally loses itself in the tropics. * *

"As the summer advances in California, the moisture in the atmosphere

and the earth, to a considerable depth, soon becomes exhausted; and the

radiation of heat, from the extensive naked plains and hill-sides, is

very great.

"The cold, dry currents of air from the north-east, after passing the

Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, descend to the Pacific and absorb

the moisture of the atmosphere to a great distance from the land. The

cold air from the mountains, and that which accompanies the great ocean

current from the north-west, thus become united, and vast banks of fog

are generated, which, when driven by the wind, has a penetrating or

_cutting_ effect on the human skin, much more uncomfortable than would

be felt in the humid atmosphere of the Atlantic at a much lower

temperature.

"As the sun rises from day to day, week after week, and month after

month, in unclouded brightness during the dry season, and pours down his

unbroken rays on the dry, unprotected surface of the country, the heat

becomes so much greater inland than it is on the ocean, that an

under-current of cold air, bringing the fog with it, rushes over the

coast-range of hills, and through their numerous passes, towards the

interior.

"Every day as the heat, inland, attains a sufficient temperature, the

cold, dry wind from the ocean commences to blow. This is usually from

eleven to one o'clock; and as the day advances the wind increases and

continues to blow till late at night. When the vacuum is filled, or the

equilibrium of the atmosphere restored, the wind ceases: a perfect calm

prevails until about the same hour the following day, when the process

re-commences and progresses as before, and these phenomena are of daily

occurrence, with few exceptions, throughout the dry season.

"The cold winds and fogs render the climate at San Francisco, and all

along the coast of California, except the extreme southern portion of

it, probably more uncomfortable, to those not accustomed to it, in

summer than in winter.

"A few miles inland, where the heat of the sun modifies and softens the

wind from the ocean, the climate is moderate and delightful. The heat in

the middle of the day is not so great as to retard labor, or to render

exercise in the open air uncomfortable. The nights are cool and

pleasant. This description of climate prevails in all the valleys along

the coast-range, and extends throughout the country, north and south, as

far eastward as the valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. In this

vast plain the sea breeze loses its influence, and the degree of heat in

the middle of the day, during the summer months, is much greater than is

known on the Atlantic coast in the same latitudes. It is dry, however,

and probably not more oppressive. On the foot-hills of the Sierra

Nevada, and especially in the deep ravines of the streams, the

thermometer frequently ranges from 110° to 115° in the shade, during

three or four hours of the day, from eleven until three o'clock. In the

evening, as the sun declines, the radiation of heat ceases. The cool,

dry atmosphere from the mountains spreads over the whole country, and

renders the nights fresh and invigorating. * * * * * * * * * * *

"These variations in the climate of California account for the different

conflicting opinions and statements respecting it. A stranger arriving

at San Francisco in summer, is annoyed by the cold winds and fogs, and

pronounces the climate intolerable. A few months will modify if not

banish his dislike, and he will not fail to appreciate the beneficial

effects of a cool, bracing atmosphere. Those who approach California

overland, through the passes of the mountains, find the heat of summer,

in the middle of the day, greater than they have been accustomed to, and

therefore many complain of it.

"Those who take up their residence in the valleys which are situated

between the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin and the coast

range of hills, find the climate, especially in the dry season, as

healthful and pleasant as it is possible for any climate to be which

possesses sufficient heat to mature the cereal grains and edible roots

of the temperate zone."[83]

We have thus obtained from reliable sources, a fair account of the soil,

situation and climate of California, with the exception of that portion

of the new State lying to the southward and eastward of the Sierra

Nevada and the Coast Range, and between those mountains and the

Colorado. This district is believed by experienced Californians to be

mostly desert; at least, so much of it as lies upon the usual emigrant

trail from the Colorado to San Diego, and that which is further north,

in the neighborhood of Frémont's explorations, is known to be of such a

character. Elsewhere, however, in the large valley between the two great

ranges of the coast and the Sierra Nevada, and in the small lateral

valleys that pierce their rugged sides in every direction, are the

_arable_ lands of California. In a previous part of this notice we have

shown that the present boundaries of the State give to her 155,550

square miles of superficial area, or 99,552,000 square acres, exclusive

of islands adjacent to the coast. If it be granted that one half of

California is covered with mountains and that one fourth is a desert

waste, we have still one fourth, or 24,888,000 square acres of arable

land left for productive purposes. Messieurs Gwin, Frémont, Wright and

Gilbert, in their Memorial already cited, do not hesitate to assert,

that, after all due allowances, _three-fifths_ of the whole territory,

embraced in the State of California, will never be susceptible of

cultivation or useful to man. This would leave, as the remaining

two-fifths, 62,220 square miles, or 39,820,000 square acres,

constituting the total valuable _agricultural and grazing_ district, and

distributed at intervals over the whole surface within the actual

boundaries.[84]

* * * * *

Such are some of the substantial elements of self-reliance and

independence possessed by the new State, exclusive of her precious

metallic deposits. The genial soil is well adapted for the growth of

those grains which are suitable for European or North American

emigrants. Wheat, barley, rye and oats grow abundantly, as well as

potatoes, turnips, onions, and all the roots known to our gardeners and

farmers. Oats, of the species cultivated in the Atlantic States, are

annually _self-sown_ on all the plains and hills along the coast, and as

far inland as the sea-breeze has a marked influence on the climate. This

fact indicates that similar grains may be raised in the same region

without resorting to _irrigation_. Apples, pears and peaches may be

brought to great perfection under skilful culture. The grape, too,

received much attention in former days at the missions and among the

villagers, who produced an excellent fruit, the wine of which was

abundant and delicious. The fine natural grasses and oats of California,

aided greatly in satisfying and perpetuating the nomadic _vaquero_ or

herdsman, who was the type of the region before the cession to the

United States; and it is calculated that the _grazing_ grounds in the

State are extensive enough to produce many thousand more cattle than

will be required annually, for the vast increase of population.

* * * * *

Notwithstanding the union of California with her sister States, and her

favorable position for commercial purposes, it is scarcely probable that

she would so soon have assumed almost a national rank, had not a

mechanic, named James W. Marshall, who was employed during the latter

part of February, 1848, in building a saw mill for Captain John A.

Sutter on the south branch of the American Fork or Rio de los

Americanos, discovered certain pieces of gold glistening at the bottom

of the sluice. In a few days fragments to the amount of one hundred and

fifty dollars were removed from the water; and as the news spread among

the settlers all over the region, farms, workshops, professions and

homes were deserted to explore the promised Dorado.

The results of this accidental discovery are already known all over the

world. California has become a centre of attraction for population,

wealth and trade. The grand auriferous region which has thus far been

examined and partially drained of its deposits, is between four and five

hundred miles long, and from forty to fifty broad, following the

windings of the Sierra Nevada. New discoveries will doubtless enlarge

this area, but the present recognized limits are the hills and lesser

ranges rising from the eastern border of the Sacramento and San Joaquin

plain, and extending fifty or sixty miles eastward, until they reach an

elevation of nearly four thousand feet, where they mingle with the main

ridge of the Sierra Nevada. The numerous springs, originating in the

snows and rains of the mountain summits, pour down their rugged sides,

cutting deep channels or _barrancas_ through the _talcose slate_, and

even down to the _quartz_ of which the _foot hills_ are formed. The

streams, in creating these gorge-like channels, have come in contact

with the quartz containing gold, and, by constant attrition, have cut or

ground the metal into fine flakes, scales and dust. The precious deposit

is, accordingly, found among the sand and gravel of the river beds at

those places where the swiftness of the current reduces it in the dry

season to narrow limits, or when the streams may be damed and turned. In

other places auriferous quartz has cropped out on the surface of the

hills, mountains or gorges, and been worn and smoothed by the action of

water. In these positions the gold still remains entire in pieces of all

shapes and sizes, from a single grain to lumps weighing several pounds.

_Placeres_, or gold locations of this latter character, are styled "the

dry diggings," in contradistinction to the "washings" of the streams,

and are spread over large valleys which appear to have been subjected to

the violent action of water. In the dry diggings the operation of

extracting metal is performed by the hand alone or with a pick-axe,

hammer and knife; but the fine dust or scale-gold of the river bottoms

is rescued from the earth by washing the whole mass in common tin pans,

or vessels of every kind that can be substituted. The gyratory motion

given to these primitive implements, removes the finest portions of

soil; gravel is taken out by the hand, and the gold is left in the

vessel united with a black ferruginous sand not unlike that used at the

writing desk. This residuum is left on a board or cloth to dry, when the

sand is blown off either by the mouth or a common bellows, leaving the

gold whose gravity retains it on the board. Much of the very finest gold

is, however, lost with the sand in this rude process. Vast numbers of

rough machines resembling cradles, are also used in the business. The

rocking of the cradle answers to the gyration of the pan, and as the

mud, water and sand escape from one end of the machine through a series

of small cross-bars, the coarser particles of gold are retained in the

instrument. On the head of the cradle is a common sieve, upon which the

auriferous earth is placed; water is then poured on it, and as soon as

the machine is set in motion, the gold, sand and dust are carried into

the body of the cradle, while the gravel is rejected.

But many experienced Californians do not look to the _placeres_ or

common gold diggings and washings for the continuation of that

prosperity to which they gave birth. For its permanence they rely on the

_mines_, whose development has but just commenced. This species of

mineral riches lies in that region where the _auriferous quartz_ has

been discovered of nearly uniform richness, from the 40th to the 35th

degree of latitude, upon the waters of the Feather river, and on the

American, the Mokelumne, the Mariposa, and the desert upon the

south-eastern borders of California, _east_ of the Sierra Nevada. In all

these localities, within a range of three hundred and fifty miles, it is

already known to exist, and the strongest analogy would carry it through

the remaining distance. An assay of the _ore_ of the Mariposa _mines_,

now worked with a Chilian mill, afforded an average yield from washing,

of forty cents per pound avoirdupois; and afterwards, by the fine

process, produced eighty cents to the pound additional; making one

dollar and twenty cents per pound as the average. Other assays exhibit

results from _ores_ in various sections of California, ranging from

twenty-five cents to five dollars per pound, and that, too, in specimens

where no gold is visible to the naked eye. Rocks examined even within

two miles of San Francisco, have yielded gold to the amount of ten cents

per pound. The result at the Mariposa mine has been at the rate of two

thousand five hundred dollars for every ton!

These facts, stated upon grave authority, may be regarded as positive

information applicable to the whole extent of the _gold producing

quartz_. If we apply the results of the working of a British mining

company,--The San Juan del Rey,--in Brazil, to these assays and

conclusions, we may estimate the consequences upon the destiny of

California and of the world. The work of this British company has

increased annually for twenty years, and its last report dates on the

1st of March, 1850. In this it is stated that 69,000 tons of _ore_ were

_crushed_ and the gold extracted therefrom;--applying this to the

average yield of the _mines_ in California, the result would be _over

one hundred and seventy millions of dollars_![85]

* * * * *

Various speculations have been made as to the gross numerical summary of

all these discoveries and labors in a broiling sun, in icy streams and

under all kinds of privations; yet no definite accuracy can be attained.

During the earlier enterprises, California was a country without law or

restraint, for, all men, bent upon the single selfish task of greedily

gathering gold, resolved society completely into its original elements.

Out of the municipalities and villages there were no associations except

in small bodies for mutual labor and protection. Severe and certain

punishment secured the latter; but it may be reasonably supposed that

the collection of statistics was not a duty willingly undertaken by such

absorbed individuals. Accordingly, we are not enabled to present more

than proximate calculations of the wealth given and promised by

California to the human race.

Mr. King supposes, in his report, that during the first season there

were not more than 5,000 employed in collecting gold, and that their

average gain was one thousand dollars each, or an aggregate of five

millions. But, in the season of 1849, the number of explorers increased

by the vast influx from every quarter of the world. In July, it was

judged that 15,000 foreigners were in the _placeres_; and, by the labors

of all classes united, the report calculates that the round sum of forty

millions was realized during 1848 and 1849, of which _one-half was

probably taken from the country by foreign adventurers_. Of the forty

millions, twenty are estimated to have been gathered from the northern

rivers principally, or from those emptying into the Sacramento. The

southern rivers, or those voided into the San Joaquin, were, up to that

period, comparatively unvisited, and continued so until towards the

season's close. There is one river which, from reported discoveries,

though not flowing into the great valley west of the Sierra Nevada, is

as rich in gold as any other. This is the Trinity, which rises west of

the Sacramento's sources, and discharges into the Pacific not far from

the fortieth degree of latitude.

As commerce began to reassert her orderly sway in the ports of

California, and as gold became again subservient to the true wants of

man, more attention was paid to the collection of statistics relative to

production and export. The mint of the United States has also enabled us

to reach accurate partial results within a more recent period. By a

table furnished to Mr. Hunt for publication in his Merchants' Magazine,

of November, 1850, it appears that the gold dust shipped on the Pacific

Mail Steamers, from 11th April, 1849, to June 1st, 1850, was

$13,329,388; while the following were the receipts at our mints:

RECEIPTS OF CALIFORNIA GOLD AT THE N. ORLEANS AND PHILADELPHIA MINTS.

Year, &c. At N. Orleans. At Philadelphia. Total.

In 1848 $44,177 $44,177

Jan. 1st to Aug. 31st 1849 175,918 1,740,620 1,916,538

Aug. 31st to Jan. 1st 1850 489,162 3,740,810 4,229,972

Jan. 1st to Feb. 28th " 938,050 2,974,393 3,912,443

To March 31st " 365,869 1,296,321 1,662,190

March 31st to May 1st " 298,130 1,813,002 2,111,132

May 1st to July 31st " 317,181 6,740,677 7,157,858

----------- ----------- -----------

Total, $2,584,310 $18,350,000 $20,934,310

Of this vast total receipt at the two great mints of the country

$17,000,000 were delivered in ten months, being at the rate of more than

$20,000,000 yearly. Since January last, the receipts have been at the

rate of $26,000,000, per annum, and for the last quarter, at the rate of

$32,000,000 per annum, showing a constantly augmenting ratio. Mr.

Edelman, accountant of the Philadelphia mint, has prepared an essay to

answer the repeated enquiries respecting the general character of

California gold and its value by the ounce troy. It appears from his

calculations that seven-eighths of all the deposits made at his mint

from the commencement of the business until April 1850, exhibit a

variation in quality of only fifty-cents per ounce troy, the fineness

averaging between 873-1/2 thousandths and 898-1/2 thousandths. The

general fineness of nearly all the gold brought to the mint is 886

thousandths; the flat spangles of the rivers, which bear a small

proportion to the mass, averaging 895 thousandths. The alloy detected in

this gold is wholly silver tinged with a small quantity of iron, and the

removal of the iron, dirt or sand in melting occasions usually a loss in

weight of about 3-1/4 per cent. If the grains have been cleansed by the

magnet the loss is reduced to about 2-1/2 per cent., but if they are wet

or dampened the loss may raise to even higher than 4 per cent.

California gold is regarded as consisting of 995 parts gold and silver

in every 1000 parts by weight, which renders it necessary to separate

these metals before converting them into coin, for, according to law,

the standard national gold is so constituted, that, in 1000 parts by

weight, 900 shall be pure gold, and 100 an alloy, compounded of copper

and silver.

* * * * *

If the confident representations of travellers, miners, laborers and

scientific men are to be heeded, the California _placeres_ and mines

will continue to yield an increasing ratio of precious metal; but time

alone can disclose the degree in which their products will be

multiplied. Should they reach $100,000,000 annually--and they may

surpass that amount--the yearly addition to the gold of Europe and

America, will be 6-2/3 per cent. on $1,800,000,000, which is the

estimated amount of that metal in those two quarters of the globe. This

vast sum more than doubles the past contributions of American mines

during the period of their greatest productiveness.[86]

Gold, however, is not the only important mineral element of California's

wealth. Her _quicksilver_ mines are believed to be numerous, extensive

and valuable. The _cinnabar ore_ which produces the quicksilver, lies

near the surface, is easily procured and is represented to be remarkably

productive. The mine of New Almaden is a few miles from the coast,

midway between San Francisco and Monterey, and in one of the ridges of

the Sierra Azul. The mouth of this mine is a few yards from the summit

of the highest hill that has been found to contain quicksilver, and is

about 1,200 feet above the neighboring plain and not much more above the

ocean. Its ore-bed seems to be embraced in a greenish talcose rock. By a

very rude apparatus the yield on the spot was found to be over fifty

per cent. Mr. Charles M. Wetherill of Philadelphia, an accomplished

chemist, found the percentage of mercury to be 60, in 123 grains which

were submitted to him; and 45 in another parcel containing 61-1/2

grains. Cinnabar ore has been found in about twenty other places within

a few miles of this valuable location.

It is asserted that there are extensive veins of silver, iron and copper

in California; but there is no information sufficiently accurate to

justify a statement of their existence or value.

* * * * *

The commerce of California has of course flourished in proportion to her

population and wealth. The aggregate of duties paid on foreign

merchandize at San Francisco from the 12th of November 1849 to the 31st

of May 1850, was $755,974. At the date of the information there were in

the harbor 623 sailing vessels, 12 steamers; and 140 sail vessels and 8

steamers at Sacramento City, Stockton and other places up the rivers. Of

this total of 783 vessels, 120 were foreign and 663 American. The amount

of tonnage at San Francisco, was 1,020,476, and 100,000 in towns and

cities on the Sacramento and San Joaquin; but of this large sum 800,000

tons at least were unemployed.

The singular history of the unprecedented rise in the value of

merchandize or the necessaries of life in California after the discovery

of gold, is a chapter full of surprising and fantastical incidents, but

our narrowing space denies us the tempting privilege of recounting it in

this volume.

In all these calculations and estimates we must occasionally approach

the dangerous domain of speculation, and in this category must we also

place most of our information respecting the population and towns of

California. Population is of course constantly augmenting under these

great temptations for the rapid accumulation of fortune; yet with

society in such a transition state, the true ratios or numbers of actual

increase cannot be accurately obtained.

According to Baron Humboldt the population of Upper California consisted

in 1802, of 7,945 males and 7,617 females, or, 15,562 individuals

attached to the eighteen missions. All other classes whether whites,

mestizos, or mixed castes, either in the Presidios or in the service of

the Monks, were estimated at 1,300. This calculation would make the

whole population, at that time, exclusive of wild Indians, 16,862. In

1831, the number of missions had increased to twenty-one, and their

Indian neophytes were 18,683; all other classes in the garrisons and

among the free settlers amounted to 4,342, making a total of 23,045;

nor is it probable that this number was much augmented until after the

cession and subsequent discoveries. At present it is quite impossible to

calculate closely the wild Indians of miserable, debased tribes found in

the mountains, whose numbers are variously stated by travellers and

writers at 100,000, and 300,000. In the memorial of the California

Representatives, already cited, the population on the 1st of January,

1849 is stated at 13,000 Californians, (which is probably too low a

number,) 8,000 Americans, and 5,000 foreigners, or 26,000, in all. From

that date to the 11th April, the arrivals from sea and by land were

judged to be 8,000, while, according to the Harbor Masters' Record at

San Francisco, 22,069 Americans and 7,000 foreigners arrived there from

sea, between the 12th of April and the 31st of December 1849. Of these

28,269 were males, and only 800 _women_! In addition to the immigration

by sea at this single port, it may be presumed that not less than 1,000

individuals landed elsewhere in California during the same period. By

Santa Fé and the Gila nearly 8,000 entered the country. From Mexico

6,000 or 8,000 were supposed to have come, though only about 2,000

remained in the territory. Adding to these amounts 3,000 deserting

sailors, and computing the overland immigration at 25,000, we have

107,000 inhabitants in California on the 1st of January 1850. It would

probably not be unsafe to add fifty thousand for the immigration of the

current year, so as to give the new State at least 150,000 citizens in

January 1851.

* * * * *

As gold and people increased so miraculously, the tents and encampments

of the adventurers gave place to houses and towns whose materials and

construction were almost as frail. When the precious metal became

abundant, _land_ of course quickly grew into speculative importance and

value. Men who disliked the toil of draining gold from the rivers or

digging it among rocks, resorted to the _easier mines_ of their own

ingenuity, and, obtaining titles to advantageous locations near the

great rivers, or, on important bays and straits, laid out magnificent

plans for the gorgeous cities of the Pacific Empire. The list of some of

these "Cities," given in a note at the bottom of the page, comprises the

leading locations north of San Francisco and on the routes to the

principal _placeres_.[87] Some of these towns, and probably many more,

will prosper permanently because they are admirably situated to aid in

the development of the interior of the great valley of the Sacramento

and San Joaquin. If this valley is to be annually deluged and converted

into a lake, as it was last year during the rainy season, the

_agricultural_ prosperity of California must be seriously affected, and

the rising cities will probably suffer with it, unless the _placeres_

and the _mines_ shall continue to pour their bountiful supplies into the

hands of all who seek them.

The old Spanish and Mexican towns and villages, will in all likelihood

continue to assert their importance. The chief of these are the ancient

Presidences or Presidios of San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara and

San Diego. In all of these, Europeans and Americans are already

establishing themselves as residents who desire to make California their

permanent home. The old _pueblos_ of Los Angeles, situated about eight

miles from the mission site of San Gabriel;--of San José about fifteen

or twenty leagues from the bay of San Francisco, near Santa Clara;--and

of Branciforte about a mile from the mission of Santa Cruz, and a mile

and a half from the bay of Monterey,--are still in existence, and having

been built on well selected sites, may flourish long after the fragile

castles erected in the golden region have passed away like the scenery

of a drama. The Monks, every where, possessed an instinctive sagacity

for nestling in the best locations, and time will doubtless do justice

to their discretion in California.

* * * * *

The increased value of land of course indicated to our government the

necessity of promptly examining the titles of property in California;

and accordingly, Mr. W. Carey Jones, a lawyer accomplished in the Civil

and Spanish laws, was despatched thither by the authorities in

Washington, to examine the grants from the Spanish and Mexican

governments. His full, learned, and satisfactory report has been

published by congress, and declares that these grants are mostly

perfect titles, or have unquestionably the same _equity_ as those that

are perfect.[88]

All the grants of land in California, except _pueblo_ or village lots

and some grants north of the bay of San Francisco, subsequent to the

independence of Mexico, and after the establishment of that government

in California, were made by the different political governors. These

personages possessed the exclusive faculty of making grants of eleven

leagues or _sitios_ to _individuals_, which were valid when sanctioned

by the Territorial Deputation; but colonization grants to _Empresarios_

or contractors, required the sanction of the Supreme National

Authorities.

The supposition, usually entertained, that the mission lands were grants

held as the actual fee-simple property of the church, or of the mission

establishments as corporations, is entirely erroneous. All the missions

in Upper California, established under the direction of the Spanish

Viceroyal Government and partly at its expense, never had any other

right than that of occupation and use, the whole property being either

resumable or otherwise disposable, at the will of the crown or its

representatives. The right of the Supreme Powers to remodel these

establishments at pleasure, and convert them into towns and villages,

subject to the known policy and law which governed settlements of that

kind, was a fundamental principle controling them from the beginning.

After the secularization of the missions the principal part of the

church lands were cut off by private grants. Some of them still retain a

portion of their original territory, but others have been converted

either into villages and subsequently granted in the usual form in lots

to individuals and heads of families, or have become private property. A

few are either absolutely at our government's disposal now, or, being

rented at present for a term of years, will become so when the tenant's

contracts expire.

* * * * *

The gold of California is a modern disclosure, though, probably, it is

not altogether a modern discovery. There are documents in existence

which show that it was known to the Mexican government; and, as far back

as 1790, a certain Captain Shelvocke obtained in one of the ports, a

black mould which appeared to be mingled with golden dust. Specimens of

California gold were exhibited privately by the authorities in the city

of Mexico not long before the late war; and a memoir prepared by the

congressional representative, imparts the fact that it had been taken in

considerable quantities from _placeres_ in the neighborhood of Los

Angeles. It is very likely that the rulers of the Mexican Republic were

not anxious to add to the allurements which were already enticing our

people to her distant province, and silence was therefore preserved in

relation to its mineral wealth.

California has, at least, illustrated one great moral truth which the

avaricious world required to be taught. When men were starving though

weighed down with gold,--when all the necessaries of life rose to twice,

thrice, tenfold, and even fifty or a hundred times their value in the

Atlantic States,--that distant province demonstrated the intrinsic

worthlessness of the coveted ore, and the permanent value of every thing

produced by genuine industry and labor. It is to be hoped, therefore,

that the new State will not degenerate into a mere mining country, or be

forever a prey to that feverish excitement in the pursuit of sudden

wealth which is fed or frustrated by the contemptible accidents of luck.

The rapid development of the country is almost unparalleled in national

history; and now that a substantial government and union with our

confederacy are secured, it remains to be seen how the social problem of

California will be solved, and whether it possesses any other elements

than those of gold and men for the creation of a great maritime State on

the shores of the Pacific. Wonderful order has been preserved in spite

of the anomalous condition of the immigrants; yet refined woman must be

content to cast her lot in that remote but romantic region, and, by her

benign influence, soften, enlighten, and regulate a society which is

formed almost exclusively of men. In the course of time steam will open

rapid communications with the east, and travellers will not be compelled

to pass either the desert or those more southern regions where the

mouldering ruins of Casas Grandes denote the ancient seat of Indian

civilization. The iron bands of railways, the metallic wires of the

telegraph, and the gold of California will then bind the whole grand

empire of the west in a union, which social sympathies, commercial

interests, national policy, and a glorious history will make

everlasting.

THE END.

[Illustration: RUINS OF A CASA GRANDE.]

APPENDIX.

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS IN CALIFORNIA

Mr. T. Butler King was furnished by Surgeon General Lawson, United

States Army, with the following thermometrical observations:

At San Francisco, by Assistant Surgeon W. C. Parker, for six months,

embracing the last quarter of 1847, and the first quarter of 1848. The

monthly mean temperature was as follows: October, 57°; November, 49°;

December, 50°; January, 49°; February, 50°; March, 51°.

At Monterey, in latitude 36° 38´ north, and longitude 121° west, on the

coast, about one degree and a half south of San Francisco, by Assistant

Surgeon W. S. King, for seven months, from May to November inclusive.

The monthly mean temperature was: May, 56°; June, 59°; July, 62°;

August, 59°; September, 58°; October, 60°; November, 56°.

At Los Angeles, latitude 34° 7´, longitude west 118° 7´, by Assistant

Surgeon John S. Griffin, for ten months, from June, 1847, to March,

1848, inclusive. The monthly mean temperature was: June, 73°; July, 74°;

August, 75°; September, 75°; October, 69°; November, 59°; December 60°;

January, 58°; February, 55°; March, 58°. This place is about forty miles

from the coast.

At San Diego, latitude 32° 45´, longitude west 117° 11´, by Assistant

Surgeon J. D. Summers, for the following three months of 1849, viz:

July, monthly mean temperature, 71°; August, 75°; September, 70°.

At Suttersville, on the Sacramento river, latitude 38° 32´ north,

longitude west 121° 34´, by Assistant Surgeon R. Murray, for the

following months of 1849. July, monthly mean temperature 73°; August,

70°; September, 65°; October, 65°.

These observations show a remarkably high temperature at San Francisco

during the six months from October to March, inclusive; a variation of

only eight degrees in the monthly mean, and a mean temperature for the

six months of fifty-one degrees.

At Monterey we find the mean monthly temperature from May to November,

inclusive, varying only six degrees, and the mean temperature of the

seven months to have been 58°. If we take the three summer months the

mean heat was 60°. The mean of the three winter months was a little over

49°; showing a mean difference, on that part of the coast, of only 11°

between summer and winter.

The mean temperature of San Francisco, for the three winter months, was

precisely the same as at Monterey--a little over 49°.

As these cities are only about one degree and a half distant from each

other, and both situated near the ocean, the temperature at both, in

summer, may very reasonably be supposed to be as nearly similar as the

thermometer shows it to be in winter.

The mean temperature of July, August, and September, at San Diego, only

3° 53´ south of Monterey, was 72°. The mean temperature of the same

months at Monterey was a little over 59°; showing a mean difference of

13°.

At Los Angeles, 40 miles distant from the coast, mean temperature for

the three summer months was 74°; of the three autumn months, 67°; and

three winter months, 57°. At Suttersville, 130 miles from the sea, and

4° north of Los Angeles, mean temperature of August, September and

October, was 67°. Mean temperature of same months at Monterey, 59°;

making a difference of 8° between the coast and the interior, on nearly

the same parallel of latitude.

APPENDIX No. 2.

The following statement of the amount of California gold deposited at

all the United States Mints, comprising those of Philadelphia, New

Orleans, Charlotte, and Dahlonega, from the opening of the mines, or

discovery of the metal, until the 30th of the month of September, 1851,

is taken from the memoranda of Robt. Patterson, Esq., of Philadelphia,

son of the late Director of the Mint.

+------------------+-------------+------------+----------+----------+-----------+

| |Philadelphia.|New Orleans.|Charlotte.|Dahlonega.| Total|

+------------------+-------------+------------+----------+----------+-----------+

|For the year 1848 | 44,177| 1,124| | | 45,301|

| " " " 1849 | 5,481,439| 669,921| | | 6,151,360|

| " " " 1850 | 31,667,505| 4,575,567| | 30,025| 36,273,097|

| 9 months of 1851 | 31,300,105| 6,310,462| 12,805| 70,925| 37,694,297|

| +-------------+------------+----------+----------+-----------+

| Totals| $68,493,226| $11,557,074| $12,805| $100,950|$80,164,055|

+------------------+-------------+------------+----------+----------+-----------+

The total production of California gold since its discovery is doubtless

over one hundred millions of dollars in value, which, according to

official data in my possession, is equal to nearly one half the total

coinage of this country in gold, silver, and copper, since its

separation from Great Britain. To the $80,164,055 received at the U. S.

Mints, as shown above, must be added large amounts received here, and

consumed by jewellers, dentists, &c.; considerable amounts shipped from

San Francisco directly to other countries; the gold coinage and

circulation in California itself, including the $50 pieces stamped by

the U. S. Assayer; the shipments received here since the 1st of October,

amounting, in New York alone, to about $5,000,000, and all the gold dust

now in the hands of miners and merchants on the Pacific side. It will be

a fair estimate, therefore, to set down the entire production, up to the

close of 1851, at $120,000,000, at least.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Mühlenpfordt--Die Republik Mexico: Hanover, 1844, 2 vols.

[2] Ward, vol. 1, p. 7.

[3] Folsom's Mexico in 1842, p. 29.

[4] See maps and tables of areas of the several states of our Union

accompanying the President's message of December, 1848.

[5] The high table land of Mexico which we have described, is said

to owe its present form to the circumstance that an ancient system

of valleys in a chain of granitic mountains, has been filled up to

the height of many thousand feet with various volcanic products.

Five active volcanos traverse Mexico from _west_ to _east_,--Tuxtla,

Orizaba, Popocatepetl, Jorullo, and Colima. Jorulla which is in the

centre of the great platform is no less than one hundred and twenty

miles from the nearest ocean, which is an important circumstance,

showing that proximity to the sea is not a necessary condition

although certainly a very general characteristic of the position of

active volcanos. If the line which connects these five volcanic vents

in Mexico be prolonged westerly, it cuts the volcanic group in the

Pacific called the group of Revilla-Gigedo.--Lyell's Geology, American

edition, vol. I, p. 294.

[6] See Tschudi's Peru--American Edition, p. 80, and Mühlenpfordt--Die

Republik Mejico, vol. 1;--Indians.

[7] It is just to Mexico to state that Cortina, in the article

previously referred to, estimates the number of persons able to read

and write, to be much larger; but his calculations are doubtless

made with the partiality of a native, and are based on a limited

observation of city life, the army and municipal prisons.

[8] The cholera ravaged Mexico this year, and consequently it would be

unfair to use the deaths as a basis of calculation at that period.

[9] See Boletin No. 1, del Instituto Nacional de Geografia y

Estadistica, Mejico, 1839.

[10] Ward's Mexico in 1827, vol. 1, p. 55.

[11] "_La propriété c'est le vol._" Prudhon.

[12] Humboldt, Essai Politique, Book iv., chap. ii.--Paris, 1811.

[13] See Humboldt's essay on the production of gold and silver in the

Journal des Economistes for March, April and May, 1838.

[14] See Humboldt's Essay on Precious Metals, _ut antea_--in note--in

the American translation, given in vol. iii., of the Banker's

Magazine, p. 509.

[15] See Ranke: Fursten and Volker, vol. i., pp. 347, 355.

[16] Pet. Mart. Epist. lib. xxix., No. 556, 23d January, 1516.

[17] See M. Ternaux-Compans' Original Memoirs of the discovery of

America--(Conquest of Mexico, p. 451)--Compans publishes in this, for

the first time, an official list sent between 1522 and 1587 by the

viceroys of New Spain to the mother country. The PESOS

_of gold_, must be multiplied by a mean of eleven dollars and

sixty-five cents in order to give their value in dollars. See Banker's

Magazine, ut antea, p. 594, in note. See Prescott's History of the

Conquest of Mexico, vol. i., 320. Raminez, in his notes on the Spanish

translation of Prescott's History of the Conquest rates the _peso de

oro_ at two dollars and ninety-three cents. This result is reached by

a long financial calculation and course of reasoning. See La Conquista

de Mejico, vol. ii., at p. 89 _of the notes_ at the end of the volume.

[18] This is Humboldt's estimate in the essay cited in this section.

We think it rather too large, yet give it upon such high authority.

See our general table of Mexican coinage.

[19] Ward's Mexico in 1827, vol. ii, p. 151.

[20] Ward, ut antea.

[21] See report of the Mexican Minister of Foreign Relations for 1846,

at page 139, of _Documentos Justificativos_.

[22] These calculations are made in dollars, _reales_, or pieces of

the value of 12-1/2 cents, and _medios_, or pieces of the value of

6-1/4 cents.

[23] The actual coinage of all the mints in the republic in 1844

amounted, in fact, to the sum of $13,732,861; but we assume

$14,000,000 as a fair annual average for a period of several years.

[24] Zavala's Historia de las Revoluciones de Mejico. Tomo 1.

[25] The cultivation of cotton is a branch of agriculture of almost

marvellous increase. Mr. Burke, a member of our congress, from South

Carolina, in 1789, when speaking of southern agriculture, remarked

that "cotton was likewise in _contemplation_." During the last quarter

of the eighteenth century, when 7012 bags of the article were imported

into Liverpool a perfect panic was produced by so unusual a supply, at

present 150,000 bags may reach a single port without greatly affecting

the price. In 1791 the whole United States produced only two millions

of pounds, whilst in 1848, the Commissioner of Patents calculated the

whole crop at 1,066,000,000 lbs.

[26] Whilst these pages are passing through the press information

has been received from the Mexican gazettes that in 1846 there were

sixty-two cotton factories for spinning and weaving, and five for

manufacturing woollens;--that the first mentioned have been greatly

improved by the introduction of the best kinds of machinery, and

that two _new_ factories for woollens have been set in operation in

the state of Mexico, which produce cloths and cassimeres that are

eagerly purchased by the best classes. The cost of these fabrics is

not mentioned, but it is probably fifty per cent. higher than if

manufactured in the United States.

[27] Mejico in 1842 by del Rivero. Madrid, 1844.

[28] See Otero Cuestion Social y Politica de Mejico, pp. 38, 39, 43.

[29] Mexico as it Was and Is, p. 329.

[30] Rivero, Mejico in 1842, p. 130.

[31] Norman's Rambles in Yucatan, p. 32.

[32] ib. p. 91.

[33] Stephens' Travels in Yucatan, vol. 2, page 115.

[34] Forbes's California, p. 215.

[35] Zavala, Rev. de Mejico, vol. 1, pp. 14, 25.

[36] See Mayer's Mexico as it Was and as it Is, 1844; and the review

of it by the Rev. Mr. Verot, in the United States Catholic Magazine

for March, 1844: See also the reply entitled Romanism in Mexico,

published in Baltimore in the same year.

[37] We trust that it will not be regarded as levity if we relate an

anecdote which shows that the church _has_ contributed to the money if

not to the wealth of the country, in years past, in a most unexampled

manner. It will be recollected that in the historical part of this

work there is an account of the mode in which a large revenue was

derived by the government from the sale of Bulls issued by the church

permitting the people a variety of indulgences and acts which, without

the possession of such a document, were not allowed by the spiritual

laws of Rome, or the temporal laws of Spain. Immense packages of

these Bulls were found in the treasury after the revolution, and,

when it became necessary for the government to issue a temporary

_paper money_, the financiers of the nation thought it a wise stroke

to make these Bulls at once a license of indulgence to the holder,

and a security against counterfeiters. Accordingly they printed the

government notes on the blank back of the Bulls, which had been sent

from Spain to supply her revenue. One of these treasury notes, now

before us, measures twelve inches in length by nine in breadth, and

promises to pay two dollars. The Bull upon which it is printed is

an indulgence, valued at "two coined silver reals," or, twenty-five

cents, allowing the possessor to eat "wholesome meat, eggs and milk,"

during lent and on fast days.

[38] Mexico as it was and as it is, p. 269.

[39] See vol. 1, pages

[40] Lerdo, Consideraciones, &c., &c., p. 42.

[41] Lerdo, Consideraciones, p. 46, 47.

[42] Lerdo 43.--Cuevas's memoir of 1849, as Mexican Minister of

Foreign and Domestic relations, p. 29 of American translation.

[43] It will scarcely be credited, but such is nevertheless the fact,

that it was once seriously contemplated in Mexico to deny the right

of sepulture to all strangers who were not Catholics, and that the

point was only overruled by an ingenious liberalist, who contended

that it was certainly healthier for the living Catholics that the dead

_heretic_ should rot beneath the ground, than taint the atmosphere by

decaying above it! The priests have constantly and violently opposed

marriages between Mexicans and foreigners, unless they were Catholics.

[44] Bacalar, Campeché, Ichmul or Izamal, Isla de Carmen,

Jequetchacan, Junoma, Lerma, Mama, Merida, Oxhuscab, Seyba, Playa,

Sotula, Tizizimin, and Valladolid. These are the names of the

Departments given by Mühlenpfordt: the first table is taken from

Stephens.

[45] Our table of population on page 43 of this volume, adds about 10

per cent to this number to give the population estimated in 1850.

[46] See Senator Cass' speech, on the proposed occupation of Yucatan,

in the Senate, May 10th, 1848, p. 7.

[47] See Stephens's Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas

and Yucatan, vol. 2, chapter xxvi; and his Incidents of Travel in

Yucatan, vol. 2, page 444.

[48] Transactions American Ethnological Society, vol. 1, page 104, and

Stephens's Yucatan, vol. 1, page 434.

[49] This year was remarkable for its dryness and the loss of cattle

on the coasts in consequence.

[50] In this year the observations include only ten months.

[51] It will be seen hereafter that expeditions subsequent to

Humboldt's calculation give Popocatepetl a height of 17,884 feet.

[52] See Mosaico Mejicano.

[53] See Museo Mejicano, vol. 2, p. 465, for a plate of this temple.

[54] See Museo Mejicano, vol. 3d, p. 329, for lithographic sketches

of the palace and temple, and their monuments. See also vol. 1st of

the same work, p. 401; and vol. 3d id., p. 135, for descriptions of

Zapotec remains; and vol. 1st id., p. 246, for an imperfect account

of military remains, fortifications, &c. &c., near Guiengola, near

Tehuantepec.

[55] This peak which is visible from Mexico, has been thus denominated

in honor of Mr. William Glennie, who was the chief promoter of the

expedition.

[56] See page 179, vol. I

[57] See chapter on the agriculture of Mexico for more extended

notices of the character of the valley of Cuernavaca.

[58] Muhlenpfordt, vol. 2, p. 294.

[59] See also, "Mexico as it was and as it is"--p. 63, for a full

account of the ceremonies of the Collegiate church, and of Archbishop

Lorenzano's sermon, preached in 1760, confirming the miraculous

history.

[60] The Indian not being able to point out the precise spot, a

fountain gushed from the ground and indicated it.

[61] This armor and patent of nobility, were offered to the author of

this work in 1842, before they were purchased by the government, for

one hundred and forty dollars, and, at his recommendation, they were

tendered, as a first choice, to the national authorities who bought

them.

[62] The waters of the lake, it will be recollected, have fallen

greatly since the conquest.

[63] The reader will find an interesting account in Spanish, of

the residence of Nezahualcoyotl at Tescocingo, extracted from

Ixtlilxochitl's history of the Chichimecas, in the third volume of

Prescott's History of the Conquest of Mexico, page 430. The hill or

mountain described in this section, is doubtless the same one referred

to by the Indian historian; and it is to the Vandalism of Fray

Zumarraga, the archbishop, that we are indebted for the destruction of

one of the most graceful and elegant monuments of Indian civilization.

[64] See Scrope on Volcanoes, p. 267.

[65] Leonhard and Brown's Neues Jarbuch, 1835, p. 36. See Lyell's

Geol., Am. Ed., 1 vol., p. 345.

[66] Mühlenpfordt.

[67] The writings of Clavigero, Solis, Bernal Dias, and others

describe this mode of disposing of the bodies of those whose hearts

had been torn out and offered to the idol.

[68] Ward assigns Catorcé an elevation of _over_ 7,760 feet. The

statement given in the present work is on the more recent authority of

Muhlenpfordt.

[69] Dr. Wislizenius's Memoir, &c., &c., 1848, p. 41.

[70] See Humboldt's Views of Nature, London edition, 1850, p. 208, and

Dr. Wislizenius's Profiles of the country in his Memoir on New Mexico,

&c., &c.

[71] See Dr. Wislizenius's Memoir, &c., &c. p. 141.

[72] We have used the full account given by Dr. Wislizenius, with

but slight alterations of his language, because it is the most

complete, consistent and satisfactory that we have encountered in

our researches. We could neither improve its method or condense its

matter. He is a close observer; an accurate thinker; an industrious

traveller, and relates always from his personal observation.

[73] There are no negroes in New Mexico, and consequently neither

_mulattos_ nor _zambos_. The fatal epidemic fever of a typhoid

character that ravaged the whole province from 1837 to 1839, and the

small pox in 1840, carried off nearly ten per cent. of the population.

[74] See Gregg's Commerce of the Prairies, vol. i., p. 113.

[75] See Gregg, vol. i., chapter vii.

[76] Gregg, vol. ii., p. 160.

[77] The roads by Gen. Kearney's and by Brevet Lieut. Col. Cooke's

routes leave the Rio Grande for California some fifteen or twenty

miles below the ford at Valverde; the former just opposite, and the

latter below a point on the left bank of the river known as San Diego.

[78] See vol. ii., page 137.

[79] Forbes's California, p. 202.

[80] Gwin, Frémont, Wright and Gilbert: Memorial to Congress

accompanying the Constitution of California, 12 March, 1850.

[81] See the admirable "Paper upon California" read by that

accomplished scholar J. Morrison Harris, before the Maryland

Historical Society in March 1849. It has been published and forms,

in the estimation of competant judges, the best resumé and most

philosophical disquisition upon California that has been hitherto

issued from the press.

[82] See T. B. King's Report on California, Ex. Doc. No. 59, 31 Cong.

1st sess.

[83] See appendix at end of vol. for Meteorological Observations in

California.

[84] See Debates on the California Convention: Appendix p. xx.

[85] See Senator Frémont's speech. Debates in Senate of U. States on

Friday, 20th September, 1850.

[86] Article by the Hon. Professor Tucker, Hunt's Magazine, July,

1850, p. 25:--See Appendix No. 2.

[87] Fremont, a town laid out by Jonas Spect, on the west bank of the

Sacramento river, opposite the mouth of Feather river; Vernon, east

bank of the Feather river, at its confluence with the Sacramento;

Boston, on the north bank of the Rio Americano, a few miles above

its confluence with the Sacramento; Sacramento City, on the site of

the celebrated Sutter's Fort; Sutter City, on the east bank of the

Sacramento, a few miles below Sacramento City; Webster, on the east

bank of Sacramento river, nine miles below Sacramento City; Suisun,

on the west bank of the Rio Sacramento, 80 miles from San Francisco;

Tuolumne City, at the head of navigation of the Tuolumne river;

Stanislaus, on the north bank of the Stanislaus river; Stockton,

situated on a slough, or sloughs, which contain the back waters formed

by the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin; New York upon the

Pacific, located at the mouth of the San Joaquin; Benecia, on the

Straits of Carquinez, 35 miles from the ocean; Martinez, opposite

Benecia; Napa, on the banks of the Napa creek, 40 miles north of San

Francisco; Sonoma, in the valley of the same name, three miles from

the Sonoma creek; St. Louis, on the Sonoma creek; San Rafael, on the

north side of the Bay of San Francisco; Saucelito, on the Bay of San

Francisco, at the entrance of the harbor.

[88] Report upon the land titles of California by W. Carey

Jones--Washington 1850.

Mexico, Aztec, Spanish and Republican, Vol. 2 of 2 A Historical, Geographical, Political, Statistical and Social Account of that Country from the Period of the Invasion by the Spaniards to the Present Time. · 第 17 / 17 章