CHAPTER IX

A PRÉCIS OF LAPPISH HISTORY, AND A NARRATIVE OF

TRANSIT BY RAFT AND SWAMP TO IVALOMATI

That grimy little person, Marie, guided us back to our other men, and

whether she did it out of sheer good-nature, or for the sake of the one

of us she was pleased to admire, or for Johann's sake, it was hard to

discover. It seemed that the untutored child of the fjeld could be as

arrant a flirt as any young woman with the advantage of half a dozen

milliners and a London season's education. But for all that, if there

was a breeze blowing, and one did not come too close to her, she really

was in her way a pleasant little companion. One could hardly call her

good-looking; she was too weather-beaten for that. And she followed the

fashion of the fjeld in being more easy than trim in her apparel.

Moreover, she was as irresponsible as a cat in her personal habits,

which was a _trait_ one did not get used to all at once. But, as I say,

she had her attractions, and though one was inclined to smile at her

waddling run at the beginning of a march, one regarded it with more

respect at the end of the fortieth mile, when it was no more clumsy and

no more waddling than it had been at the outset.

Marie led us through river and swamps, through forest and ravine,

through all the naked loneliness of the fjeld, with never a scrap of

hesitation, never more than a brief glance round when we headed a rise.

She knew the wilderness as a hunting-man may know a country here at

home. And she led us to the rest-hut which Johann had described, with

never a deviation from the bee-line except where the corrugation of the

country made curves a necessity.

Pat, with more stubble and more grin, and Pedr, with a smile if possible

more beautiful than ever, were at the door to welcome us. Inside, our

solid goods were laid out in an orderly row; the brown canvas sacks and

the chronically sodden blankets were hung up on the drying-beam above

the fire; and the room was filled with a delicious mosquito-proof smoke.

It felt quite like a home-coming.

We inducted Marie to a seat on a pile of springy birch-boughs, which the

excellent Pat had brought in to form his own bed, and we set before her

of our best, which did not amount to much. I think it was the first time

she had ever tasted larks in aspic, and unless I am much mistaken she

will not greatly regret if it was the last. One thing she did appreciate

though, and that was the _Windward's_ slop-chest tobacco. She saw the

black cake pass from hand to hand; she drew her knife from its sheath

and held out eager fingers; and when she had shredded up a sufficiency

and got her iron-lined wooden pipe in full blast, it was a pleasant

sight to see her. The smoke exuded from her lips and nostrils in sleek,

gray clouds, and the wrinkles in her grimy, weather-beaten little face

wreathed themselves into a smile of ecstatic contentment.

The question of sleeping-quarters obtruded itself. We had an

acquaintance with the Lapp's casual way of regarding such matters, but

we still had (from the conventions of our upbringing) some small spasm

of hesitation in offering a spinster guest a shake-down on the floor of

a hut containing five full-grown men. We discussed the advisability of

turning out ourselves and camping elsewhere with the carriers, and

leaving Marie in the orthodox virgin seclusion. But she took the matter

out of our hands very simply. She said she must be getting back to her

endless work with the deer-pack. She had sat down for an hour on Pat's

couch of birch-shoots, and this seemed all the rest she cared for after

her gentle forty-mile stroll. She shook hands with us limply all round,

and then went into the sunny midnight outside. Hayter and I

instinctively took off our caps, but I am afraid she did not know it was

intended as a piece of courtesy, because she doubled up in a fit of

merriment by way of response. And then Johann went out and walked by her

side till they came to the edge of the scrub willows, and I think she

appreciated Johann's attentions best, because she understood them more.

They stopped there and made their further adieux, and then the squat

little figure waved its hand for the last time, and disappeared in the

cover, and Johann stood stupidly staring at the place where she had

vanished.

We went back into the hut and sat down on the benches. The aroma of the

little woman's presence clung to the place, and we could not help

thinking of the endless round which had made up her life and would make

up her future. Her ancestry dazzled one. Her forefathers were old at a

date when the Romans laid down the first legend as a foundation for

their history. They came of a fine, crusted, Ural-Altaic stock, who were

accustomed to look upon the Adam-and-Eve family as vulgar parvenus. And

yet they were people without observable pride or ostentation. They had

no monuments, no books, no sculptured or written history. They could

look back on neither a nobility nor kings. They had always been hunters

and herders, and by reason of this had never acquired the gregarious

idea. They were a people of camp-communities, living on their deer, and

the camps were always small, because many deer cannot find pasturage in

one locality. By reason of this it has never occurred to them to be

patriotic, and, as a consequence, when oppression came in their way,

they have always been oppressed. In a nation of warriors the small men

get weeded out by the chances of battle. In a community which has never

fought, the stature of the race deteriorates. The Lapps have never been

warriors. They have never even been a nation.

As the world increased in the easy lands of the South, so have the Lapps

through the centuries been ever squeezed at its verge towards the bleak,

unknown North. It is but rarely they have consented to band together and

raise objection. The Norwegians made them serfs by proclamation in the

ninth century, and serfs they remained, contentedly enough, so long as

the ill-usage dealt out to them was not over-brutal. When they could

stand it no longer, they took refuge in the savage forest-dingles, and

made expeditions for houghing their enemies' cattle and burning down

their wooden homesteads. By this means they regained a wandering

independence; but in the fourteenth century the Norskmen again coveted a

subject race, and made systematic raids on the nomads, and again wrote

them down as serfs in their census. And in the sixteenth century the

Swedes followed suit. But only a few of the Lapps were caught. The great

majority were still free wanderers on the fjeld and the tundras.

The only Lapps who really suffered were those who were held by the

Birkarlians--a band of Swedish adventurers who flourished from the

thirteenth century right away down to the year 1700; and in the hands

of these hard men they endured what was little better than slavery. They

had no redress. They had no trades unions amongst themselves; they did

not belong to that larger trades union which is known as a nation; and

if the Birkarlians in the course of progress could have endured to this

day, it is probable that they would still be holding stunted Laplanders

as their unpaid menials.

But time sweeps on, and the sentiment of the world alters. The peculiar

institution of slavery has for one reason and another dropped through

into mere history; and governments which at one time thought the only

self-respecting thing to do was to either shoot the aboriginal or

shackle him into servitude, now look upon him as an amiable curiosity,

and write out laws for his preservation, much in the same spirit as they

appoint close seasons for the elk and the ptarmigan and the aurochs.

Under this fostering care the total Lapp population has risen to some

32,000 as near as it can be reckoned; of which 18,500 wander within the

marches of Norway, 7500 are in Sweden, and the balance own as over-lords

the Archduke of Finland, and his master the Great White Czar; and each

government has its own preservation rules.

The fundamental note of the Russian _régime_ is "No Vodki," and it is

easy to create a Prohibition State where distances are big, transport

difficult, and the inducements to smuggle small. Norway very wisely

does not worry about the liquor question, as in practice there, by

reason of the settlement of the country, it would be quite impossible to

restrain the aboriginal from purchasing _aquavit_ if he intended to do

it. So the Norskman lets the Fin-ne, as he calls the Lapp, diet himself

entirely according to taste; and as a consequence, at an occasional

wedding, or an annual meat-selling, the little man spends one afternoon

in getting blind drunk. He has all the rest of the year to get the

aniseed flavour entirely out of his system, so, physically speaking, not

much harm is done. Sweden, too, follows the same policy, but provides a

slightly less noxious brand of drink.

The Scandinavian farmer, however, who has the Lapp reindeer-herder for

an occasional neighbour, does not agree with the enthusiastic theorists

who in Stockholm and Christiania make the laws for his preservation.

Socially he regards the Lapp as though he were some noxious kind of ape,

the which is quite understandable, because the spirit which fosters

Aborigines' Protection Societies can only exist at a considerable

distance from the aboriginal. He sees the Lapp and his doings

personally, and (being somewhat unread) does not regard him from the

point of view of an interesting relic of the past. He merely looks upon

him in the light of the present, and finds him a thorn in the flesh.

In the old viking days the Scandinavian would yield to no one in his

appetite for thieving; but with advancing civilisation he has grown to

be a staunch anti-pilferer. He has had game-laws set up above his head,

and he respects them. He is allowed to shoot one elk on his own estate,

and only one elk, per annum, and he must shoot it in a certain fixed

month; and it is not pleasant for him to see the Lapp (who knows no law

except the rule of appetite) gaily slaying the great deer whenever they

come within range of a rifle-bullet. It annoys him, too, to have his

cows milked on the mountains, and his rivers and lakes poached with

system and industry. Moreover, it is his custom to leave all his worldly

goods unlocked and unguarded, and he expects that no one will steal

them; so that when the mountain Lapp comes out of the forest like a

quiet ghost, and annexes any trifle, from a sheep to a parcel of smoked

salmon which may strike his fancy, the farmer rages, and makes no

allowance for the neglect of education. It is tolerably useless to apply

to the Government for redress, because governments move slowly, and a

Lapp moving on the fjeld, if not tackled at once, is hard to catch; and

so he takes the law (and a Remington rifle) into his own most capable

hands.

Then begins the trouble. The mountain Lapp, according to his instincts,

has stolen; and although under pressure he might peaceably give up the

transferred goods, he has a strong dislike to indiscriminate

retaliation--when applied to himself. So when he comes across the

rotting carcasses of first one, then another, then a dozen, then a score

of his cherished deer, ruthlessly shot down and left in their wallows,

he accepts the _vendetta_, and prepares to carry it into bloody effect.

He owns a rifle, this nomad herder of to-day, who rears the __rensdyr__

amongst the rugged mountains of the Scandinavian peninsula; and though

it is an early breech-loader, cast from the army in the early seventies,

it is a deadly enough weapon when the butt is cuddled by a vengeful

shoulder. And he goes down to the valley-farms and puts lead into beast

or man, whichever comes in his way. Upon which the farmers, still saying

no word to the Government, arm and organise a Lapp-hunt; and the

mountains swallow the tale of what is done; and those who come back to

the farms sit down assured that at least some of the aborigines will

pester them no more.

This then is the state of things which obtains in this year of grace

amongst the fjelds and forests of Northern Norway and Sweden, and as a

consequence the Lapps are slow of increase. Over the border, however, in

Lapland proper, and in Russian Lapland, their numbers rise appreciably

every decade, though it is perhaps hard to decide which are genuine

Lapps and which belong to a mixed race. In the extreme east of their

territory they are apt to intermarry with the Samoyedes; and I think it

is a significant fact that the outer garments of the two races--the

Lapp _matsoreo_, and the Samoyede _militza_--are both fashioned on the

same cut. In Russian Lapland there is an obvious intermixture with the

Russian _moujik_, and in Lapland proper they naturally marry largely

with the all-pervading Finn.

The inhabitant of Lapland is not so light-fingered as his more western

brother, perhaps because there is less opportunity of pilfering. And he

does not make himself so unpopular, because there are fewer aliens for

him to get unpopular with, and no one goes out regularly to shoot him as

a domestic nuisance. In fact the Lapps we were in contact with (and the

Finns, too, for that matter) never stole any of our particular

properties; though at the same time it should be confessed that we had

remarkably little worth stealing, as the whole of our outfit after Enare

(including the clothes on our backs) was not worth a couple of

sovereigns, and we did keep a remarkably sharp eye on even the few

trifles we had.

The life these aboriginal people lead in Arctic Lapland is undoubtedly

hard, and at times they rub shoulders very closely with starvation. But

they have got constitutions, built up through countless centuries to

endure the privations and (what to a more delicately nurtured race would

be) the hardships of their life; and from the number of very old people

we saw everywhere through the country, it was plain that the orthodox

threescore years and ten was by no means the average limit for the life

of an Arctic Lapp. Children there were, too, in all abundance. It was a

notable fact that scarcely a woman did we see of child-bearing age

without a babe at breast; and though a large percentage of this progeny

did not endure the chills of a second or a third winter, enough pulled

through to keep the race on the steady increase in numbers. This

weeding-out process also obviously did much to counteract the evils of

consanguineous marriages, and so maintain the standard of physique. It

was one of Nature's balances. Without it the Arctic Lapps would increase

for a while abnormally, and then they would dwindle, and in a few

centuries they would be gone.

* * * * *

We should have liked much to stay on in that Arctic casual ward, to

which Marie guided us, for a day or two to recruit. We were both of us

getting very hollow-eyed, and not a little fagged. The mosquito-plague

had something to do with this state of things, because when a man has

got a constant fever about him, he can scarcely be called healthy. And

the want of food was telling on us. We had barely had a decent meal

since leaving the _Windward_, and many of our meals were as much like

the Barmecide's as a diet of plain water could make them. But it was

this very scarcity of food which drove us remorselessly forward. Our own

store of those miserable tinned dainties was dwindling, and the

carriers' provisions had already been dragged out beyond their

calculated time. We had no help for it but to press on to Ivalomati,

which was the nearest human habitation.

So we started, and promptly there arrived another difficulty: we lost

the way.

In a populated country this is a hard thing to do. Given the general

direction, one can always there hit upon a town or a village if one

takes sufficient time about the search. But in a land where the town

consists of five houses, and a village can earn a name on the map with

one roof and a haystack, it is very easy to wander on day after day and

never sight anything but sheer wilderness.

In this particular instance it was Johann who failed us. The excellent

Johann had never before journeyed West beyond the squalid hut which

figured geographically as Menesjärvi; but as at that place we had been

unable to get either fresh guides or carriers, we had induced the three

who had brought us to come on farther, and Johann had guaranteed (for a

consideration) to find the way. He had laid under contribution the

entire topographical knowledge of Menesjärvi (which perhaps did not

amount to much), and had imbibed it noisily for three solid hours. He

had started off with confidence and brought us to the first rest-house

in style. Pat and Pedr had found their way from there to the second

shelter, where we, with Marie's help, joined them. But before we had

been travelling a mile on the final stage, it was clear that the

loud-voiced Johann was completely "bushed."

He would not own it at first. We were tramping through a burnt-out

forest with gaunt gray-and-black skeleton trees hedging us in

impenetrably on every side. Growth and decay is slower up there, deep

inside the Arctic Circle, than it is in the Tropics. In a hot, moist

country a fallen tree may be blotted out of sight by vegetation in a

week, and crumbled into primitive dust in less than a year. But up in

the cold North, Nature does not strain herself to work with such fevered

speed. A tree dies; and, erect or prone, it may survive for years as a

gaunt, dry corpse. There is no jungle to hide it from the air; there are

no creepers to bore into its bones and leave openings for the tearing

fingers of the weather; there is only the short, crisp moss underfoot,

and that rather helps than hinders its preservation. And so for years

upon years these dead forests endure, as eyesores to heaven.

Mile after mile we tramped through the winding aisles of these dead

trees, the acrobatic Johann waddling stolidly on in the lead. From time

to time we looked at the compass, and more than once we had doubts about

the direction. But we did not interfere. Johann under the stress of

advice was apt to get flustered, and Johann flustered would be a very

useless guide indeed. He was all we had got, and so we agreed to let him

have his own way.

But at last when he calmly led us back over our own tracks which we had

made not half an hour before, and still would have gone complacently on

waddling through the wilderness, we called a halt and made him face the

situation. He owned up at once to having wandered, which was a

confession he could not very well avoid, seeing that our old tracks were

by no means microscopic; and after a little more pressure, admitted that

he had not the vaguest notion of where he was.

This was unsatisfactory. We had come to see Arctic Lapland, certainly,

but it looked as if we were going to inspect a good deal more than we

had bargained for. A real solid hunger made us appreciate this very

thoroughly.

We asked Johann if he had any suggestion to make. He scratched himself

thoroughly for ten minutes and gave the matter his due consideration.

Finally he said he thought he could lead us back successfully to the

places from which we had come.

We did not see the force of this at all. We intended to get through to

the other side of the country, and we stated the proposition with

brevity and decision.

But Johann's suggestion found other ready hearers. Pat and Pedr both

woke into animation. It appeared that Pat had a sore heel, and possessed

a wife (or somebody else's wife) he wanted to return to, and also

remembered some important business on Mattosjärvi which ought to be

attended to at once. And Pedr, the beautiful Pedr, but without the

beautiful smile, stated tersely that he was sick of the whole thing, and

intended to go back home there and then.

It was mutiny. They leaned back each against his pack, and began making

fast the thongs against their breasts and shoulders. They were

frightened, and they were tired, and they were going back to the place

from which they had come whether we liked it or whether we did not. It

was glaring, flagrant mutiny, and there was only one way to deal with

it, and we chose that way.

It was a primitive style of persuasion, and it involved the use of the

heavy British hand and the heavy British boot, but it served its purpose

then, as it has done thousands of times before; and after the

proceedings were over, we stood still a minute to collect breath, and

contemplated three very sulky, subdued carriers, squatted on the ground

and waiting for orders.

The outlook was not cheerful. The only thing apparently left was to make

for Ivalomati on a compass course, which sounds simple enough on paper,

but was likely to prove a very different matter in practice. We had

carefully checked all our travel up to this on the map, and so far we

had never detected the map's accuracy in any one single point. It was a

map somewhat reminiscent of those made by boys at school, where one

filled in any invitingly bare space with an imaginary river, or a fancy

lake, or a decorative range of caterpillar mountains. From an artistic

point of view this kind of fiction is very pleasant to look upon and to

create, and indeed exercises a wonderful fascination over some people.

One remembers the joy poor Stevenson confessed to over the making of

that delicious map in _Treasure Island_. But when you are depending on a

geographer to lead you out of famine, and when a fictitious scratch of

his pen may hustle you into actual starvation, why then you come upon

very different views, and cordially agree that any one who writes or

draws anything but the bare and naked truth should be led out to suffer

a lingering death.

In addition to all this, we could only guess at our "point of

departure," and so getting the true magnetic bearing of this

problematical Ivalomati was a matter of the airiest uncertainty.

However, it was Hobson's choice, and so putting on cheerful, confident

faces for the benefit of the frightened, sulky carriers, off we set.

Now this sort of quandary no doubt sounds funny enough from the

distance; but viewed at first hand, we failed to catch its humour. We

had hunger nipping us in the ribs all the time; we were heavy-footed

with weariness; the infernal insect-plague was going on all the time;

and there was nothing to tell us whether we were steering right, or

wandering completely away into the savage depths of the wilderness.

We met swamps, and plunged across them in curves and zigzags. We tramped

through forests of graceful birches, and forests of dreary pines; we

clambered over rocks, and waded streams. The land was not entirely

desolate of life. Sometimes we saw tiny lemmings before our feet, and

once we heard the cry of a cuckoo from far away amongst the trees. At

one halt in the middle of a two-mile-wide tremulous morass, we sat

beside a pond of clear water, and tried to divert ourselves by

overlooking the business of three black-and-gray frogs who dwelt in its

depths. We were thankful to those speckled frogs during that halt: they

almost interested us. But the greater part of the way was dreary enough.

And so we expended an entire day's journey.

Finally, after wallowing painfully through another quagmire of still

more horrible wetness and filth, we came upon a river, deep,

swift-flowing, and two hundred feet from bank to bank. And this, unless

the map was crowning its petty perjuries by the most cruel, colossal lie

ever scratched upon paper, was the Repojoki.

Ivalomati, if it existed at all, was obviously on the farther side, and

it behoved us to cross with as little delay as might be. But here came

another difficulty. We proposed to build a raft to carry our goods

piecemeal, and swim it across to the other side. But the Lapps, with the

usual contrariness of those who live in a country of water-ways, could

not swim a stroke, and refused flatly to be towed over, floated by a

log. So there was nothing for it but to build a raft which would carry

passengers, and to this pleasing business we set our hands without

further talk.

It had been my fortune to make a whole armada of rafts before. I built

one in the days of youth to navigate a local duck-pond. I made another

in more mature years for the easier fishing of red char in a certain

lake of Northern Norway, and another in North Carolina as a lazy way of

travelling down the French Broad River; and in the course of writing

story-books for the young I must have turned out quite a respectable

fleet of rafts--paper rafts--under every conceivable circumstance of

theoretical difficulty, with glibness and ease.

But building that raft to cross the Repojoki was very different from all

these previous excursions into carpentry. They had been amusement; this

was a horrible nightmare. Because we wanted wood, no wood was near the

river. The handiest tree lay at the farther side of the last swamp we

had waded through, and quite half a mile from the bank. We had to wallow

painfully back through this slough, haggle down our trees, lop them into

portable lengths, and drag them back through the quaking ooze. We were

hungry, we were weary, we were bitten half mad by the hateful insects,

and our one utensil for cutting was a small American axe, more fitted to

split kindling wood than to swing against a tree.

Two logs we laid upon the bank of the Repojoki, seven feet apart; five

others we laid upon these; and then, putting two more parallel to the

first two, we made withes from the shoots of Arctic willow, and bound

the whole into place. And all the time that we worked, the sun beat upon

us, and the mosquitoes covered us in dense, biting clouds. We were like

men toiling in a delirium.

We hacked out something that would serve as a paddle, and slid the raft

into the swift water. As a vehicle it did not look encouraging. It

floated deep, and each log wobbled independently. But we were in no mood

for niceness then. The packs were piled on and laboriously paddled over,

following a diagonal course in the grip of the racing current. The raft

was brought back again, and made the bank some two hundred yards farther

down-stream. With a passenger on board besides the paddler, it sank very

nearly out of sight, and between each trip it had to be docked for

repairs. It was a moist method of making the passage, but it seemed

effective.

On the last trip, the ninth, Pedr was passenger with an Englishman for

his Charon; and in mid-stream the beautiful Pedr objected to the water

swirling round his waist, and began to get nervous. Worse still, he

commenced to wriggle, and promptly the raft began to wriggle too. The

withes with which it was lashed together untwisted gaily. The paddler

paddled for dear life, and Pedr, now solidly scared, embraced him from

behind. A log detached itself from the raft and bobbed off in a _pas

seul_ down-stream, and on the farther bank Johann and Pat held out

branches alluringly over the stream, whilst the other Englishman with

them laughed. But still the paddler paddled on.

Then the logs of the raft opened out like the sticks of a fan, and

reared up on end, and "Rari nantes in gurgite vasto" chuckled the

foreigner on the bank, who knew something about his countryman's

capabilities in the water. He had not calculated upon the clinging

nature of Pedr, however, and when the pair of them vanished below the

swirling surface of the Repojoki--and stayed there--he began to get a

little scared himself and to strip off his coat.

However, there is a recognised course of treatment to follow under these

circumstances, and the swimming Englishman took it with vigour, and some

hundred yards lower down-stream came to bank with his charge. The

beautiful Pedr had a big red lump over one eye, which probably explained

to him then, and will make him remember in the future, that it is

inadvisable to wrestle with a swimmer who is wishing for free use of his

limbs in deep, rapid water. I fancy we had, on the whole, a good

educational effect upon our Lappish carriers.

* * * * *

[Illustration: RAFT WRECKED ON THE REPOJOKI.]

Of course we all were as wet as water could make us, and our chattels

were sodden, and the exertion of making the raft and navigating her had

been great; but the incident of crossing the Repojoki had on the

whole distinctly cheered us. On every there-and-back crossing, the raft

had been swept some two hundred odd yards down-stream; and so by the

time the whole train was across, we had perforce gained knowledge of

some thousand yards of the farther bank, and at one place came upon

indications of a track. There were no footmarks, certainly; but some

bushes had been axed away as though to assist a landing, and we set out

from these with renewed hopes of finding Ivalomati.

The country, too, tried to cheer us. It was true there were more swamps,

and they were even wetter and wider than those we had crossed before,

but their bosky pools were gilded with sunshine, and here and there

clumps of pink flowers, and white flowers, and blue flowers, caught the

eye and tried to gladden it. On some of the marshes, too, there were

curlew; and life, after the dead regions we had passed through, is

always pleasant to look upon and hear. At one halt, a pair of these

curlew got up, screaming, and went through the same pantomime one had

seen them in so many times in the foot-hills at home during breeding

season. Hayter must needs stroll off to look for their young. But after

he had been gone a dozen minutes, I chanced to look down, and saw the

chicken he was searching for squatted stolidly on the ground not four

inches from my foot. In tint and shape it harmonised wonderfully with

its surroundings, and had evidently received instructions to "lie

close" whatever befel. Indeed it withstood a good two minutes' proguing

with a grass blade before it deigned to stir; and when the little

stilt-legged oddity did get up and run, in three turns it was absorbed

into the landscape again beyond human sight. And in the meanwhile its

parents were getting more daring. They were making such determined

swoops at our heads that we actually had to drive them off. They were as

fierce in their respect as nesting Richardson's skuas on the outlying

islets of the Shetlands.

Cloud-berries grew on these swamps, but though we looked thirstily for

fruit, we could see none even approaching ripeness. Most of the berries

were green, or half formed; only a few were scarlet; none had got the

amber tint which one has learned to love so well on a Norwegian

shooting. And once, too, on a scrap of stony, rising ground, we saw a

woodpecker at work, digging grubs from the trunk of a gaunt, dead pine.

We came into another forest, where the air was heavy with mosquitoes,

and the weary carriers could hardly drag one foot up to the other, and

still on we plodded. And then through the trees we caught a gleam of

broad water.

No word was said, but instinctively the pace quickened. A breeze was

blowing towards us, and down it came the faint scent of wood-smoke. It

seemed the most delicious smell that had ever met our nostrils.

We came out of the cover and stood on the bank of a broad, sluggish

river. On the farther bank was a canoe drawn up, and beyond it stood a

rude hut of logs. It was Ivalomati, and we did not forget to

congratulate ourselves. Johann exploded into roar after roar of

laughter, and became the genial acrobat again, as though he had never

been anything else; Pedr turned on the beautiful smile to its most

beautiful pitch; and Pat forgot his tiredness, and his sore heel, and

danced a jig of triumph, and let out of him a regular string of Irish

yells for some one to bring across the canoe.

[Illustration: Marie, the Sorcerer's Daughter]

Through Arctic Lapland · 第 9 / 13 章