CHAPTER I.

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ROUGH · SKETCHES

OF THE

LIFE OF AN OLD SOLDIER:

DURING A SERVICE IN

THE WEST INDIES;

AT THE SIEGE OF COPENHAGEN IN 1807;

IN THE PENINSULA AND THE SOUTH OF FRANCE IN THE

CAMPAIGNS FROM 1808 TO 1814,

WITH THE LIGHT DIVISION;

IN THE NETHERLANDS IN 1815;

INCLUDING

THE BATTLES OF QUATRE BRAS AND WATERLOO:

WITH

A SLIGHT SKETCH

OF THE THREE YEARS PASSED BY THE ARMY OF OCCUPATION

IN FRANCE, &c. &c. &c.

----------

BY LIEUT.-COLONEL J. LEACH, C.B.

LATE OF THE RIFLE BRIGADE, AND PREVIOUSLY OF THE 70TH REGIMENT.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR

LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN,

PATERNOSTER ROW.

-------

M.DCCC.XXXI.

TO

THE 70TH REGIMENT,

AND

THE OLD 95TH,

(NOW THE RIFLE BRIGADE),

IN WHICH TWO CORPS

I PASSED ONE AND TWENTY EVENTFUL YEARS,

THE FOLLOWING PAGES

=Are Inscribed=

BY THEIR OLD AND SINCERELY ATTACHED COMRADE,

J. LEACH.

PREFACE.

-------

As it is the fashion now-a-days for every one to become an author, I see

no reason why I should not try my hand at it also, and let my book run

the same risk of being criticised, lashed, and abused by the literati

(if, indeed, they deign to peruse it), as is every day the case with

some production or other, and to which every one, who is bold enough to

make similar experiments, must make up his mind.

Such as mine is, forth it goes to the world; and it must be taken for

better for worse.

During many years of active service, I kept a daily journal, in which I

inserted matters and things as they appeared to me at the instant; and

from which journals, aided by a tolerably fair memory, and some old

notes and memoranda, the following pages were put together in a rough

state many years ago, and may therefore, with great propriety, be styled

“Rough Sketches.”

I pretend not to any thing resembling a history of the Peninsular War. A

very old Light Division comrade of mine, Colonel NAPIER, has already

done it in so masterly a style, as to throw every other work on the same

subject comparatively into the shade.

The operations of the Light Division of the Peninsular army I have

detailed more minutely than those of any other. That division was,

during a succession of campaigns, much detached from the mass of the

army, having ample employment at the outposts. But I have not omitted to

mention, also, the movements of other divisions, whenever an opportunity

offered for my becoming acquainted with them.

It is unnecessary to remind my military readers, that as I never, for

one hour in my whole life, held a staff appointment, but always did duty

with my regiment, it was impossible that I could be acquainted, on every

occasion, with the general combined movements of so large an army.

Those, however, who may have patience to wade through my “Rough

Sketches,” will find in them a little about voyages, storms, shipwrecks,

yellow fevers, musquitos, sangaree and sangarorum, sharks, dolphins, and

flying-fish; night marches and day marches, camps and bivouacs, advances

and retreats, skirmishes, battles, and sieges; signoras, waltzes,

boleros, and fandangos; bull-fights, wild boar shooting, wolves, and red

deer; British soldiers, and French, Spanish, and Portuguese,—all of

which I have endeavoured to depict in their true colours.

If I have failed in my attempt, I am sorry for it; but my regret will be

infinitely greater, if any of my brother-soldiers, whether of the

cavalry, infantry, artillery, or engineers, either of the Peninsular

army, or of that which fought at Waterloo, should accuse me of not

having rendered due praise to the conduct of their respective divisions,

brigades, or regiments, on particular occasions. Let me again remind

them, that I was always regimentally employed; and that if any such

omissions exist in my book, they are quite unintentional.

That they will be viewed in that light, by the liberal-minded, I

entertain neither fear nor doubt.

Forty-nine out of every fifty of the scenes which I have here

endeavoured to describe, I was an eye-witness of; and, on one or two

occasions, when agues and fevers placed me for a short period on the

sick list, the events which took place in the interim I became

acquainted with, by being allowed to have access to the log-books of

some one or other of my brother-officers. The thread of the narrative is

therefore unbroken.

CONTENTS.

PREFACE _Page_

vii

CHAPTER I.

Join my regiment in Jersey. Embark for England. Winter at Chatham.

The 52d regiment made Light Infantry. New system of drill

introduced. Encamp at Shorncliffe in Kent. French camp and

flotilla at Boulogne. Invasion threatened, and precautions taken

by Sir John Moore. The Duke of York reviews the troops at

Shorncliffe. Sudden order for our regiment to embark for the

West Indies. Unfortunate occurrence on the march from

Shorncliffe to Portsmouth. Remarks thereon. Embark and sail for

Barbadoes. Tremendous storm. Various occurrences on the voyage.

Arrive at Barbadoes. First impressions as to climate, &c. Death

of the Commander-in-Chief of the West Indies. We proceed to

Antigua. The harbour and dock-yard. Disembark at midnight. Lose

my baggage. Scarcity of fresh water in Antigua. The regiment

suffers dreadfully from yellow fever. Its losses. Hurricane.

Officers’ funerals. The military governor and his brigade-major

die. A receipt for yellow fever. Dancing and other gaieties.

Death of Sir William Myers, the new Commander-in-Chief in the

West Indies. Terrible mortality in his family. Death of the new

Governor of Antigua. Great mortality in the 96th regiment in

Antigua. A French squadron. Dominica is attacked. The French are

repulsed by the 46th regiment. We expect a visit from the same

squadron at Antigua. Preparations for its reception. We are

reinforced. Long marches. Sudden death of several soldiers from

excessive heat. The 68th regiment is sent to Antigua. Its

immense losses by climate. Horse-races and balls at St. John’s.

More funerals. Lord Nelson arrives in search of the French and

Spanish squadrons. He returns to Europe. My health begins to

suffer. A medical board orders me to Europe for its restoration.

My own ideas as to _slavery_. Take my passage for Europe. Sail

to Tortola. Large homeward-bound fleet. Dreadful gales and other

mishaps on the voyage home. Anchor in Dublin Bay. Quarantine.

Land at Dublin. Proceed to England. 1

CHAPTER II.

Exchange into the 95th Rifle Corps. Expedition to Denmark. Sail to

Elsineur. Imposing appearance of our numerous fleet. Scenery on

the Danish and Swedish coasts. A party to Elsineur. Cronberg

castle. Hamlet’s garden. Disorderly conduct of the Danes. Causes

thereof. The army disembarks. The reserve commanded by Sir

Arthur Wellesley. Advance towards Copenhagen. A sortie made by

the garrison. Affairs between the Danish gun-boats and our

advanced squadron. Ludicrous nocturnal affair at the outposts.

The Danish pickets are driven in. The reserve is sent into the

interior of the island of Zealand. Affair near Kioge with the

Danish militia. A sortie from Copenhagen repulsed by Lieut.

Light, of the 50th regiment. Bombardment of Copenhagen, and

surrender of the Danish fleet and stores. Visit to the capital.

Its deplorable appearance. The army re-embarks. List of Danish

prizes. A large fleet of homeward-bound merchantmen joins us. We

sail for England. A slight sketch of the Danes, and of the

island of Zealand. Stormy passage to England. 26

CHAPTER III.

Four companies of our 2d battalion embark. Sail to Cork, and join

an expedition. Its destination. Boating excursions. The

expedition sails. We anchor in Mondego Bay. Brigadier-General

Fane’s brigade. The army disembarks in Portugal. Monks, friars,

padres, and Portuguese females. March to Lavaos. Joined by

troops under General Spencer. A present from the Portuguese

junta. A Dutch concert. The army advances. Features of the

country. Reach Lyria. Swiss deserters. Affair with the French

near Obidos. Battle of Roleia. A close shave and a narrow

escape. Lieutenant Cockrane. March to Lourinha. Reinforcements

join the army from England. Battle of Vimiera. Sir H. Burrard

arrives to take the command. A flag of truce. Convention of

Cintra. Reflections thereon. Sir John Moore arrives. The British

army encamps near Lisbon. Amity between the French and English

soldiers in Lisbon. Lisbon. Its opera, &c. &c. An eccentric

Highland chieftain. Fevers and agues; and by what means a person

so afflicted may be rendered still more miserable. 40

CHAPTER IV.

The army under Sir John Moore leaves Lisbon. Marches to Salamanca.

Sir John Hope joins Sir John Moore near Salamanca. Sir David

Baird lands at Corunna. The whole army is concentrated. Affairs

of cavalry. The army moves to attack Marshal Soult. Suddenly

countermanded. Distribution of our first and second battalions.

Gallant affair of cavalry near Mayorca. General Crawford’s light

brigade destroys a bridge. The French endeavour to interrupt

them in their work. General Crawford marches to Benavente.

Brilliant action of cavalry near Benavente. Two light brigades

sent to Vigo. Their march thither, and embarkation. Cursory view

of Sir John Moore’s retreat to Corunna, and his death. The army

returns to England. Our third battalion is formed. 59

CHAPTER V.

The Light Brigade composed of the 43d and 52d regiments of Light

Infantry, and the 1st battalion 95th Rifle Corps. Embark for

Lisbon under Brigadier-General Robert Crawford. Arrive at

Lisbon. Proceed by water to Vallada. Santarem. Convents and

nuns. March from Santarem to join Sir Arthur Wellesley. Sketch

of the march. The Pass of Villa Velha, Castello Branco, Zarza

Maior, Coria, Orapeza, &c. Extraordinary long march on 28th

July, and want of water. We join the army at Talavera. Slight

sketch of the field of action. 67

CHAPTER VI.

Scarcity of provisions. Horrid stench from the unburied bodies of

men and horses. I lose my horse, and with him all my campaigning

comforts. The British army marches on Orapeza to attack Soult.

Conduct of General Cuesta at Talavera. The British army crosses

the Tagus at Arzobispo. Desperate attack made by General

Crawford’s troops on a herd of swine. How to dress pork in the

most expeditious manner. The army retires towards Delatosa.

General Crawford’s division proceeds to the bridge of Almaraz.

Long and harassing marches thither. Parched peas and boiled

wheat our food. A fortnight at Almaraz. Scanty diet of bran

cakes and goat’s flesh, without salt. How to reduce a corpulent

person. The army falls back to the southern frontier of

Portugal, and is cantoned near the Guadiana. A short account of

our retreat. Maravao. Castello de Vide. Jollification in the

woods near it. Shooting party on the 1st of September.

Portalegre. General Catline Crawford’s brigade. Aronches.

General Crawford’s division reaches Campo Maior. 87

CHAPTER VII.

The country near Campo Maior, and the climate of Alemtejo. The

army becomes very sickly. Fate of General Cuesta’s army after we

parted company with it at Talavera. Various descriptions of

field-sports near Campo Maior. How to keep off fevers, agues,

&c. Shooting excursions in the forest of Albuquerque. Wild

boars, wolves, and red deer. Bathing excursions of our

battalion, and its march to and from the Caya. Destruction of

hares, rabbits, and partridges. Riding down red-legged

partridges. Lieut.-Colonel Sidney Beckwith’s system contrasted

with that of many commanding officers of regiments. Rumours of

the army being about to return to England. The army continues

sickly. The army leaves its cantonments on the Guadiana, and

proceeds to the northern frontier of Portugal. Our march to that

point. Students and young padres at the University of Coimbra

uselessly employed. Sketch of the country between Coimbra and

Pinhel, and our march through it. The 95th Rifle Corps and 1st

German Hussars cross the Coa, and take up the outposts. The

manner in which we passed our time in the outlandish regions

between the Coa and Agueda, until the campaign of 1810 opened.

Various amusements for the soldiers encouraged by Lieut.-Colonel

Beckwith. 104

CHAPTER VIII.

A skirmish with the French near Barba del Puerco. The whole of our

battalion moves up to the Agueda, and occupies an extended line

of posts. Massacre of a French soldier by some Spanish

shepherds, near Almofala. Night attack made on four companies of

our battalion at the pass of Barba del Puerco. The enemy is

repulsed with loss. Observations. Letter from Lord Wellington to

Colonel Beckwith, expressing his approbation of the conduct of

his corps on the occasion. General Crawford also thanks the

regiment in orders. The French force at San Felices reinforced

from Salamanca. Character of General Loison. General Crawford

withdraws the troops from Barba del Puerco. We occupy Villa de

Ciervo. Our ten companies reduced to eight, and some officers

sent to England to recruit. Fine specimens of crystal found near

Villa de Ciervo. My establishment is augmented by a young wolf.

Two Portuguese light battalions join General Crawford. We are

reinforced also by a troop of horse artillery, the 14th and 16th

Light Dragoons. Extensive line of posts guarded by General

Crawford’s corps. A large army under Marshal Massena assembles

near Ciudad Rodrigo, intended to invade Portugal. The three

different corps which composed it. By whom commanded. Massena’s

proclamation to the Portuguese. He lays siege to Rodrigo. The

Light Division watch him closely, and are constantly getting

under arms from various causes. Invidious feeling of certain

persons in the army towards the Light Division. The French

batteries open on Rodrigo. Their cavalry drive our pickets over

the Azarva. Prognostications of some wiseacres in the army that

the siege of Rodrigo would be raised by Lord Wellington. General

Junot crosses the Azarva to reconnoiter our force. Captain

Krauchenberg, of the 1st German Hussars, distinguishes himself.

General Crawford retires across the Duas Casas, and takes up a

position behind the Touron. General Junot’s cautious manner of

advancing. Query: Why did Massena never attempt to cut off the

Light Division from the Coa with his numerous cavalry? Rodrigo

surrenders to the French. General Crawford surprises a French

detachment. Colonel Talbot, of the 14th Light Dragoons, killed.

Gallantry of his regiment. Exemplary conduct of the French

infantry in square. Observations. 123

CHAPTER IX.

General Crawford falls back to Junsa, on the Coa. The French

advance. Fort Conception is destroyed by mines. Action of the

Coa, 24th July, 1810. Major M’Leod of the 43d regt. French

grenadiers storm the bridge, and are destroyed. General Crawford

retires at night to Valverde. Reflections on the events of the

day. We march to Celerico, and make huts near the town. The

Light Division is divided into two brigades. Massena besieges

Almeida. The Light Division moves up to support the cavalry. The

powder magazine in Almeida explodes and destroys the town. The

garrison capitulates. Affair between our cavalry and the French

near Freixadas. The army retires towards Coimbra. Excursion to

the summit of a mountain to see a lake. Discussion with a padre

as to the qualities attributed to its waters. We continue the

retreat. The Light Division arrives at Mortagoa. Affair of

cavalry. We fall back on Buzaco, engaged with the French

advanced guard. Sketch of the position. 144

CHAPTER X.

Battle of Buzaco. Flag of truce. General Simon’s baggage brought

in. Wounded of the two armies removed from the field. Terrible

carnage in and near Sula. The light troops constantly engaged.

Deserters come over to us. Their reports of Massena’s

intentions. The French army breaks up, and marches away to our

left. Lord Wellington retires from Buzaco to the lines of Torres

Vedras. Occurrences on the march. Stores destroyed at Pombal.

King John’s coffin in the cathedral at Battalha. Affair between

our rear-guard and the French advanced guard. Our habitation

takes fire, and we are nearly burnt out of it,—horses, mules,

donkeys, and baggage. Affair of cavalry near Alcoentre.

Speculations on Massena not having pursued us more vigorously in

the retreat. The Light Division reaches Alemquer. The French

turn us out of it without our dinners. We retire to Arruda in

bad humour and in dreadful weather. An agreeable surprise. A

word or two relative to the lines of Torres Vedras. Gun-boats on

the Tagus. Jack Tar’s zeal. Great sufferings of the Portuguese

from the French invasion. Reconnoissances made by Massena, and

skirmishes brought on by it. Sharp affair between Sir Brent

Spencer’s division and the enemy. Scarcity of provisions in the

country in our front. Our employments whilst we remained in the

lines. The French army falls back to a position behind the Rio

Maior. Sentries of straw. We march in pursuit, and take some

prisoners. Dead Frenchmen, horses, mules, and donkeys, on the

road-side. The Light Division comes up with the enemy near

Cartaxo. We are preparing to attack, when Lord Wellington

arrives and countermands it. Causes thereof. The French retire

across the Rio Maior. Rough sketch of their position. General

Hill crosses the Tagus. The Light Division bivouac in a

pine-wood. Washed out of a water-course by the rain. Lord

Wellington makes demonstrations against the French position. The

Light Division engaged with the enemy’s light troops on the

left. The troops are withdrawn. 164

CHAPTER XI.

The Light Division holds the outposts at the bridge of Santarem.

General Junot wounded near Rio Maior. The allied army is put

into cantonments. How we passed the winter. Sufferings of the

French army from want of provisions and forage. They are

harassed by the armed peasantry and militia. Shooting and

coursing parties close to the French videttes. Their courteous

conduct on those occasions towards us. Anecdote of a dragoon and

his cloak. Burlesque on horse-racing in the cantonments of the

Light Division. Flags of truce. Conversation with French

officers at the bridge of Santarem. Theatrical performances. The

Marquis de la Romana dies. The Duke of Brunswick’s corps joins

the Light Division. They desert by wholesale to the French.

Several are shot by sentence of a court-martial. The corps is

sent out of the Light Division. Lord Wellington contemplates

relieving the Light Division for a time at the outposts, to give

the men rest. This is not carried into effect. Some regiments

join the army from England. The 7th division of infantry is

formed. I go with a brother-officer on a frolic to Lisbon for

five days. Return to our old post at the bridge. Lieutenant

Strenowitz, of the 1st German Hussars, surprises a French

cavalry post. Marshal Mortier defeats a Spanish army near

Badajoz, and lays siege to the place. Massena commences his

retreat out of Portugal. State of Santarem. The 1st battalion

95th Riflemen drives the French from a village. The Light

Division and cavalry come up with the French near Pombal. The

castle is attacked. Action near Redinha. Reach Condeixa. The

Portuguese militia gain possession of Coimbra. Massena changes

his line of retreat. Lord Wellington attacks Marshal Ney. He

falls back to Miranda de Corvo. Conduct of the French army

during the retreat. The French leave numbers of baggage-animals

on the road much lacerated. The Light Division finds the enemy

on the Ceira. Action near Foz d’Aroce. Remarks. The army

out-marches the commissariat. Major Stewart of the 95th Rifle

corps. His character. Lord Wellington crosses the Alva. Massena

retreats towards Celerico. Affair near Freixadas. The 95th loses

its adjutant. His character. The army marches on Guarda. Massena

falls back behind the Coa. Action near Sabugal. Colonel

Beckwith. 185

CHAPTER XII.

The French army re-enters Spain. They leave a garrison in Almeida,

which is blockaded. The Light Division and 1st German Hussars

take up their original line of posts. Skirmishes at Marialva

bridge. Some companies of our corps are sent to shoot the cattle

at Almeida. Massena assembles his army to relieve Almeida. The

Light Division and 1st German Hussars fall back and join the

army in position, near Fuentes d’Onoro. Battle of Fuentes

d’Onoro. Flag of truce in the evening. The wounded removed.

Conversation with some French officers. A sprig of nobility in

the French army at the head of one of their Hussar regiments.

Colonel Beckwith’s brigade occupies Fuentes d’Onoro for the

night. Precautions for its defence. The hostile armies remain

close to each other for many days. Waggon-loads of wounded

Frenchmen sent to Rodrigo. Marshal Marmont arrives from France.

Assumes the command of the army in our front, and supersedes

Massena. He inspects the infantry of the Imperial Guard within

view of our position. The French army retires behind the Agueda.

We resume our original line of outposts. Almeida is blown up,

and the garrison escape. Marmont sends a cavalry force to

reconnoiter Colonel Beckwith’s brigade. We send them back faster

than they advanced. Intelligence reaches us of the battle of

Albuera. We celebrate the king’s birth-day. Sudden order to

march in the midst of our festivity. Affair between the 1st

Royal Dragoons and the French cavalry. We march into Alemtejo. A

few lines relative to the march thither. Encamp on the Caya.

Gallant but unsuccessful attempts against Fort San Christoval.

The army offers battle to the united armies of Soult and

Marmont. They decline the challenge, and fall back to Seville

and Placentia. Terrible sickness in our army. Action of cavalry

near Campo Maior. Fort La Lippe. I receive a present from a

Portuguese don. Starved state of our horses. The army marches

back to the northern frontier of Portugal. A bee-hive captured.

Staff characters. 209

CHAPTER XIII.

The Light Division crosses the Agueda. Lord Wellington

reconnoiters Rodrigo. Don Julian Sanchez. The French governor

taken prisoner by Guerillas. A picket of our light cavalry made

prisoners in the Sierra de Gata. The Light Division reinforced

by the third battalion of the 95th Rifle corps from Cadiz.

Deaths by Alemtejo fever. I cross the mountains with my own

company and one of Portuguese. Wild scenery. Goatherds. Their

dress, language, and habitations. Rejoin the Light Division.

Marmont advances to Rodrigo. The Light Division in position on

the Vadillo. Gallant conduct of General Colville’s brigade. The

Light Division joins the 3d and 4th near Guinaldo. The army

falls back to Aldea de Ponte. The Light Division engaged with

the French cavalry and dismounted chasseurs. Brilliant charge of

the Fusileer brigade. General Picton’s light troops engaged. The

army retires to Soita. Marmont follows the allied army no

further, and falls back to Placentia. Our army goes into

cantonments. Comparative merits of Spanish and English

greyhounds. A new governor arrives at Rodrigo. Winter quarters

in Spanish villages. Libraries not in vogue. An essay on cigars,

and their utility in campaigning. A party made to shoot wild

deer. General Hill surprises a French division. A shooting party

in the mountains. Boleros, fandangos, and Irish jigs. Capital

sport with the woodcocks. A good dancer and a particularly bad

shot. Excursion to Robadillia. Just punishment inflicted on a

demi-brigade of padres. The Light Division invests and lays

siege to Ciudad Rodrigo. Redoubt of San Francisco stormed and

taken. The siege and storming of Rodrigo. Death of Generals

Crawford and M’Kinnon. Remarks on the defence made by the French

governor. Contrast between the siege of 1810 and that of 1812.

The army marches to the southward and besieges Badajoz.

Difficulty of keeping our horses alive during the march. Siege

of Badajoz. Storming of the place. 227

CHAPTER XIV.

Marmont penetrates into Portugal during the siege. Lord Wellington

marches back to the north. General Alten appointed to command

the Light Division. The army advances to Salamanca. Takes up a

position. Marmont’s army opposite. A fortified convent in

Salamanca is besieged by the 6th Division. It is set fire to,

and the garrison capitulates. Marmont retreats behind the Douro.

We follow him. A dance at Navis del Rey. Arrive at Rueda. Wine

vaults. French soldiers assassinated by the Spaniards. Marmont

is reinforced. The Light Division falls back to Castrejon. The

French cross the Douro. Attack the troops at Castrejon. We fall

back behind the Guarena, closely followed by Marmont. Beautiful

evolutions of the two armies. The 27th and 40th regiments

repulse the French with loss. Deaths from want of water and

excessive heat. British six-pounders and French nines, with

their respective advanced guards. Observations on the fire-arms

of French and British dragoons. The two armies march within

cannon-shot of each other for several days in succession. The

Light Division crosses the Tormes, by a ford at night, in a

tremendous thunder-storm. Battle of Salamanca. Marmont’s

promises to the Spaniards of destroying Lord Wellington’s army

not fulfilled. Opinions of certain British officers in the

Portuguese army, as to the comparative merits of Portuguese,

British, and French soldiers. Gallant attack of General Bock’s

cavalry brigade on the French rear-guard. We pursue the French

many days. Various reports of Marmont’s death. Corpse of the

French General Ferez dug up and exposed to view by the

Spaniards. We cross the Douro. Valladolid. Mode adopted of

raising the wind to purchase bread, &c. The army marches on

Madrid. Segovia. A beautiful Castilian. Palaces of El Rio Frio

and San Ildefonso. Pass the Guadaramma mountains. Encamp in the

park of the Escurial. The palace. Affair between some Portuguese

and French cavalry. The army enters Madrid. Its reception.

French garrison in the Retiro capitulates. A word or two about

the capital. Its palace, streets, public walks, Castilian women,

&c. Pheasant-shooting in Joseph Bonaparte’s park. A grand ball.

A bull-fight. Extravagant fondness of the Spaniards of both

sexes for this amusement. Four divisions march to Burgos, and

lay siege to the castle. Soult raises the siege of Cadiz and

marches on Madrid. General Hill and Colonel Skerrit join the

troops at Madrid. Colonel Skerrit repulses Soult’s advanced

guard at the bridge of Aranjuez. The Light Division marches to

the front from Madrid. Soult passes the Tagus. We bid adieu,

with great regret, to Madrid. 260

CHAPTER XV.

Commence the retreat to Salamanca. A wild boar killed. The armies

from Burgos and Madrid unite near Salamanca. The army retreats

to the Agueda. Sketch of the retreat. Rations of acorns and

oak-leaves for man and horse. The Light Division engaged at San

Munos. General Paget taken prisoner. We arrive at Rodrigo. The

campaign of 1812 concludes. A few lines relative to it. We go

into winter-quarters. Establish a regimental mess in an old

barn. A supply of Douro wine. Vocal performers. Circular letter

to officers commanding regiments, relative to the late retreat.

The Light Division establish theatrical performances. Lydia

Languish and Julia drink punch and smoke cigars behind the

scenes. Coursing, woodcock-shooting, and Lord Wellington’s

fox-hounds. Boleros, fandangos, waltzes, &c. &c. in our village.

Hot punch by no means disapproved of by our fair partners. Lord

Wellington proceeds to Cadiz for a short time. The French

general Foy makes an attempt to surprise General Hill’s advanced

post at Bejar, and is repulsed. General Kempt is appointed to

command a brigade in the Light Division. Preparations for the

campaign of 1813. Lord Wellington reviews the Light Division and

1st German Hussars. The Hussar Brigade, the Life Guards, and

Blues, join the army, from England. The eight divisions of

infantry, and by whom commanded. 289

CHAPTER XVI.

The campaign of 1813 opens. The 2d and Light Divisions march on

Salamanca. Sir Thomas Graham, with the six other divisions,

crosses the Douro. He advances to the Esla and crosses it. The

Light Division encamps at San Munos. Contrast between our

situation then with that of the 17th of November, 1812, on the

same spot. We reach the Tormes. The French retire from

Salamanca, and are pursued towards the Douro. They suffer from

our horse artillery and cavalry. The Light Division crosses the

Douro at Toro. Brilliant affair of cavalry, wherein the Hussar

brigade distinguishes itself. We follow the French to Palencia,

and from thence to Burgos. The French blow up the castle of

Burgos, and retreat behind the Ebro. We pass the Ebro at Puente

Arena. Magnificent scenery. Appearance of the troops descending

the pass. Language, dress, and appearance of the people

northward of the Ebro. Beautiful scenery at every step. The

Light Division surprises a French division near St. Millan. The

French army assembles near Vittoria. Sale by auction in the camp

of the Light Division. Ladies’ dresses, &c. &c. 304

CHAPTER XVII.

Battle of Vittoria. The Light Division and some cavalry pursue the

French rear-guard on the road to Pampeluna. Engaged with them

several days. Two French ladies restored to their husbands.

Baron Alten directs the movements of the advanced guard with

great judgment and effect. We take the last piece of artillery

but one in possession of the French rear-guard. The country

between Salvaterra and Pampeluna favourable for a retreating

army. Reflections on approaching the Pyrenees. Lord Wellington

marches with the 3d, 4th, and Light Divisions against General

Clausel. A Spanish priest apprises that general of our

movements, and mars our plans. Our benedictions on the said

padre. We return to Pampeluna, and assist in the blockade. March

into the Pyrenees. Splendid scenery. Sir Rowland Hill’s corps

engaged in the passes. Vale of San Estevan. A week spent there.

Dress, language, &c. of the Spanish Basques. Trout-fishing on

the Bidassoa. The Light Division advances to Vera. Drives the

French out of it into the pass. The first view of the ocean for

four years. Cheers of the soldiers on seeing it. Rough sketch of

the position of our army in the Pyrenees. Quadrilles danced by

our French neighbours in their encampment opposite to us. Sir

Thomas Graham besieges St. Sebastian. The French entrench

themselves in our front. An attempt to storm St. Sebastian

fails. Marshal Soult attacks our right wing. It falls back

towards Pampeluna. Defeats the French, and drives them again

into France, with great slaughter. The 7th and Light Divisions

fall back from Vera and Echelar. Soult’s proclamation to his

army before he attacked the allies in the Pyrenees. The Light

Division makes forced marches to reach the bridge of Yanci. The

Riflemen inflict a severe loss on the retreating columns of the

French. General Kempt’s brigade drives the enemy from a high

mountain into France. Gallant attack made by General Barnes’

brigade. The hostile armies occupy their former positions. 317

CHAPTER XVIII.

We celebrate the anniversary of the formation of our corps. St.

Sebastian is stormed and taken. The French pass the Bidassoa

near Vera. Part of the Light Division engaged in that town. The

French attack the Spaniards, and are repulsed. They retreat to

the Bidassoa, and force the bridge of Vera at night. Movements

of the Light Division on this occasion. Lord Aylmer’s brigade

joins the army from England. The left wing of the army passes

the Bidassoa. The Light Division and Spaniards storm the

entrenchments in the pass of Vera. Gallantry of Lieut.-Colonel

Colbourne’s brigade. A French gun-brig destroyed by British

cruisers, in sight of both armies. Horrible weather in our

mountain encampment. Tents continually blown down. Violent

snow-storm. Two Portuguese soldiers of the pickets die from

cold. Pampeluna surrenders. The army invades France. Battle of

the Nivelle. Approach Bayonne. French entrenched camp. Position

of the allied army. Soult reconnoiters our line of pickets.

Skirmishes. The Light Division drives back the French advanced

posts in its front. 336

CHAPTER XIX.

Sir Rowland Hill passes the Nive. Battles of the Nive. The French

are beaten in every attempt against us. We dance-in the New-year

of 1814 at Arcanguez. Reflections on the past and present

situations of the two armies. Soult manœuvres near Dax. We take

the field for a few days in very inclement weather. Return to

cantonments. Heavy fall of snow in the Pyrenees. Capital

woodcock shooting. The army moves to its right. Our battalion

marches to St. Jean de Luz for its new clothing. Sir John Hope

blockades Bayonne. He passes the Adour. The Guards repulse a

sortie from the garrison. We march from St. Jean de Luz to

rejoin the army. Orthes. Handsome peasantry. We rejoin the Light

Division. Soult makes demonstrations against Sir Rowland Hill’s

corps. The 15th Hussars attack a French cavalry post and take

some prisoners. The 7th Division is detached to Bourdeaux. Lord

Wellington marches on Tarbes. Affair near Vic Bigorre. Action

near Tarbes. The French retreat towards Toulouse. We follow

them. A pontoon-bridge is established below Toulouse. The army

crosses. 351

CHAPTER XX.

Battle of Toulouse. The French retreat to Carcassone. The allied

army enters Toulouse. Despatches reach Lord Wellington from

Paris relative to Bonaparte’s abdication, and his departure for

Elba. He transmits this information to Soult, who declines a

cessation of hostilities. We march from Toulouse towards

Carcassone. Count Gazan meets us with a flag of truce. Soult

acknowledges the new order of things. Hostilities cease. The

dismay of fire-eaters at the termination of the war in the

Peninsula and south of France. Sortie of the French garrison

from Bayonne. Some regiments embark at Bourdeaux for America.

Five weeks at Castel Sarrazin. Soult’s army reviewed at

Montauban by the Duke d’Angoulême. We march to Bourdeaux. Take

leave of our Portuguese allies. The parting. Arrive at

Bourdeaux. Lord Wellington reviews the 43d, 52d, and 95th

regiments. We embark for England. 363

CHAPTER XXI.

CAMPAIGN OF 1815 IN FLANDERS.

Embark for Ostend. Proceed to Brussels. We are appointed to Sir

Thomas Picton’s division. Battle of Quatre Bras. Ligny.

Predictions and foretellings _after_ things have occurred, no

uncommon practice. Fire-side tacticians and critics. The army

falls back from Quatre Bras to Waterloo. The cavalry are

engaged. 372

CHAPTER XXII.

Sketch of the battle of Waterloo, but more particularly of the

operations of Sir Thomas Picton’s division. Death of Sir Thomas

Picton. The 27th regiment. Advance of the Prussians. General

attack on the French position, and their total defeat and route.

The morning after the battle. 383

CHAPTER XXIII.

March to Paris. Cambray is taken by escalade. Letters from

Highlanders to their friends in the North. Half a dozen lines

only relative to Paris. Another half dozen as to the three years

spent by the army of occupation in the north of France. On the

distribution of medals. The army evacuates France, and is

dispersed all over the globe. Reflections on this breaking up of

old friends and comrades. A campaign amongst the Glasgow

radicals. Proceed to Ireland. Guarding jails, hunting stills and

White Boys. A few words at parting with my military friends. 396

ROUGH SKETCHES

OF THE

LIFE OF AN OLD SOLDIER.

------------------------------------

CHAPTER I.

Join my regiment in Jersey. Embark for England. Winter at Chatham. The

52d regiment made Light Infantry. New system of drill introduced.

Encamp at Shorncliffe in Kent. French camp and flotilla at Boulogne.

Invasion threatened and precautions taken by Sir John Moore. The

Duke of York reviews the troops at Shorncliffe. Sudden order for our

regiment to embark for the West Indies. Unfortunate occurrence on

the march from Shorncliffe to Portsmouth. Remarks thereon. Embark

and sail for Barbadoes. Tremendous storm. Various occurrences on the

voyage. Arrive at Barbadoes. First impressions as to climate, &c.

Death of the Commander-in-Chief of the West Indies. We proceed to

Antigua. The harbour and dock-yard. Disembark at midnight. Lose my

baggage. Scarcity of fresh water in Antigua. The regiment suffers

dreadfully from yellow fever. Its losses. Hurricane. Officers’

funerals. The military governor and his brigade-major die. A receipt

for yellow fever. Dancing and other gaieties. Death of Sir William

Myers, the new Commander-in-Chief in the West Indies. Terrible

mortality in his family. Death of the new Governor of Antigua. Great

mortality in the 96th regiment in Antigua. A French squadron.

Dominica is attacked. The French are repulsed by the 46th regiment.

We expect a visit from the same squadron at Antigua. Preparations

for its reception. We are reinforced. Long marches. Sudden death of

several soldiers from excessive heat. The 68th regiment is sent to

Antigua. Its immense losses by climate. Horse-races and balls at St.

John’s. More funerals. Lord Nelson arrives in search of the French

and Spanish squadrons. He returns to Europe. My health begins to

suffer. A medical board orders me to Europe for its restoration. My

own ideas as to _slavery_. Take my passage for Europe. Sail to

Tortola. Large homeward-bound fleet. Dreadful gales, and other

mishaps on the voyage home. Anchor in Dublin Bay. Quarantine. Land

at Dublin. Proceed to England.

The same year in which the British army gained never-fading laurels in

Egypt, I obtained a commission in the 70th regiment, and shortly after

seeing my name in the Gazette, was ordered to join in the island of

Jersey. I felt that delight which I fancy is experienced by most

youngsters, on making an escape from school, putting on a scarlet coat,

epaulet, cocked hat, and a tremendously long feather, to say nothing of

the false queue affixed to a head of hair plastered with pomatum and

well powdered (the custom of those days), together with sundry et

ceteras too well known to military men to need a further detail.

The regiment had recently returned from service in the colonies; the

officers in general were very young; and the soldiers, with the

exception of a small number of old hands, were recruits, and on the

whole a very fine body of men.

Jersey is rather better known than either the interior of Africa, or New

Holland. A description of it would, therefore, be superfluous. During

the eleven months which I spent in it, I made a tour round the island

with some of my brother-officers, and we had every reason to be

satisfied with our excursion. The roads, at the time I mention, scarcely

deserved that name; but I understand that very excellent ones have been

since made, in various directions.

Towards the end of October, 1802, the 3d regiment, or Buffs, arrived

from England to relieve us, and we sailed in ships of war to Deal, where

we disembarked, and marched to Dover Castle, in which we remained three

weeks, and from thence proceeded to Chatham. The garrison consisted of

my own regiment, the Royal Staff corps, and the first and second

battalions of the 52d regiment. Sir John Moore commanded here.

To the winter which we passed in Chatham, with little to vary the scene

except dock-yard guards, main guards, and sundry other guards, on which

I constantly found myself posted, I do not look back with any

particularly pleasurable recollections.

In the early part of the spring of 1803, Sir John Moore picked and

culled the finest and most effective men of the two battalions of the

52d regiment, the first of which Lieutenant-Colonel Kenneth M’Kenzie was

appointed to command, and to organise as Light Infantry. The second

battalion was then gazetted as the 96th regiment, and almost immediately

afterwards sent to Ireland, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel

Conran.

The new system of drill which Lieutenant Colonel M’Kenzie introduced at

this period, and which has been adopted by other light infantry

regiments, it will scarcely be denied by the most prejudiced persons,

has been attended with the most complete success. I allude to the ease

and correctness with which the regiments drilled according to that

system marched and manœuvred ever after.

In the month of June, 1803, we found ourselves encamped on the heights

of Shorncliffe, in Kent, under Sir John Moore’s command, the following

regiments composing the brigade: the 4th or King’s Own, the 52d Light

Infantry, the 59th, the 70th, and five companies of the 95th Rifle

Corps, with two pieces of light artillery. Every one knows, or ought to

know, that at this time Bonaparte threatened our shores with a visit

from his numerous army and flotilla, which were in and about Boulogne.

We had no difficulty in seeing the immense mass of white tents on the

French coast, when the day happened to be clear. Whether Sir John Moore

entertained the same apprehension of invasion which the majority of the

nation did, it is not for me to decide; but certain it is that every

precaution was taken at night, by patrolling constantly along the beach

until morning,—and by having the quarter and rear guards under arms one

hour before day-break, and remaining so until we could clearly ascertain

that our French neighbours had not ventured on the high seas with their

flotilla. We were constantly practised to strike and pack our tents at

the shortest notice, and occasionally to load the bât horses with them,

and to make every preparation for a march. Thus passed the summer and

autumn. The Duke of York reviewed the brigade on the heights of

Shorncliffe in the course of the summer.

Towards the end of October, a sudden, and, on our part, unexpected order

arrived for our regiment to march immediately to Portsmouth, to embark

for the West Indies. This intelligence caused some long faces among a

few of our old hands who had previously served in that part of the

world; but the greater part of us being young and thoughtless, the order

for moving, being a novelty, was received with pleasure rather than

dislike.

We reached Portsmouth early in November, but not without an occurrence

having taken place on the march thither, which I have never forgotten.

We halted one night at Battle, in Sussex. Some time after midnight, the

officers were called out of their beds in consequence of an affray

between some of our soldiers and a party of artillerymen; but before we

could reach the small public-house in which the disturbance had arisen,

most unfortunately two artillerymen were shot by our people, and another

was bayoneted in the body. A corporal and two soldiers, who had

committed this act, were left in the hands of the civil power. They were

subsequently tried and acquitted; it having been proved that they used

their muskets and bayonets in defence of their lives, which must have

been sacrificed had they not done so, as the artillerymen, in great

numbers, attacked them with bludgeons, and had already broken open the

door of the public-house in which they were billeted. The three men in

question joined us in the West Indies twelve months after. Some dispute

as to the respective merits or demerits of certain regiments, led to

this unhappy affair. A more dangerous subject cannot possibly be

agitated by any military men, from the drum-boy to the commandant of a

regiment. No man is worthy to wear the uniform of his corps, be that

corps what it may, who is not as tenacious of its good name as of his

own individual character, and as ready to stand forward in its defence.

Early in November we embarked at Portsmouth in the Pandour (an old

Dutch-built tub of a 44, armed _en flute_, and fitted up as a troop

ship) and in the Comet transport. The Alexander transport also sailed

under our convoy, taking out detachments for different regiments in the

West Indies. A few days after our departure from Portsmouth, we

encountered, in the skirts of the Bay of Biscay, a most tremendous gale,

which lasted without intermission three days and nights, during the

greater part of which the helm was lashed down; every stitch of canvass

which we attempted to carry was torn to atoms in an instant—the pumps

were choked—several feet of water were in the hold—and we had an

accumulation of other nautical grievances and disasters, so numerous as

to baffle a landsman’s description of them. On the morning of the fourth

day the gale abated considerably, and land was discovered; but, as no

observation had been taken for several days, it seemed a matter of doubt

what land it was. It proved to be the Start, or the Bolt, or one of the

other iron-bound headlands eastward of Plymouth. The wind having come

fair, we stood on again for the West Indies, although our commodore had

it in contemplation, at one time, to put into Plymouth, and repair the

damages sustained in the late gale.

Who does not know, that on reaching certain latitudes, one falls in with

sharks, dolphins, flying fish, and various other kinds both of fish and

birds, not found in the colder regions? I used to sit hour after hour

endeavouring to harpoon the dolphins and other large fish, but generally

with indifferent success. Somewhere between Madeira and Barbadoes we

caught a large shark, to the infinite delight of myself and the other

youngsters who had never previously navigated those seas. The operation

of ducking, shaving, &c. &c., so scrupulously observed by the sailors in

passing the tropical line, we avoided, by a liberal donation of rum to

the sea-god.

In the course of the voyage, the old Pandour chased, brought to, and

examined several vessels, all which proved to be Portuguese. One of them

was a large and beautiful ship, bound from Lisbon to the Brazils, which,

on first discovering her, was pronounced by our naval men to be a

frigate. Our ship was cleared for action; the grenadier company was

posted on the forecastle, and the light company on the poop; the

remaining companies were ordered below, until they should be called up

to board our supposed antagonist; but, after a chase of many hours, she

turned out to be a neutral, and all our golden dreams of prize-money

vanished in an instant.

Once fairly in the trade winds, we glided smoothly along day after day,

at six, seven, and eight knots an hour; nor did any thing occur worthy

of notice until two or three days before arriving at Barbadoes, when a

suspicious-looking, schooner-rigged vessel was discovered far to

windward, on which our little convoy closed, by signal, to the

commodore. The schooner followed many hours in the wake of the Pandour,

but with a certain degree of caution. We had been running the whole day

directly before the wind, and our commodore, getting tired, at last, of

having this wasp of a vessel hovering about him, without being able to

shake her off, or to put his paw on her, suddenly hauled the Pandour to

the wind, as near as she could lay, which manœuvre the schooner

performed as rapidly as ourselves, flew away into the wind’s eye, soon

distanced us, and put all chance of coming up with her out of the bounds

of possibility, unless we might, by some good chance, injure her masts

or rigging by our fire, which we kept up as long as any chance remained

of its being effectual; but, as she outsailed us, we soon gave up the

chase, and stood on our original course. All this was quite new, and

very interesting to the fresh-water sailors on board.

After a six weeks’ voyage from Portsmouth, we anchored on Christmas-day

in Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes. The sky was cloudless, and the heat

sufficiently intense to satisfy a salamander. We could scarcely, at

first, be reconciled to the idea of its being Christmas, with such a

blazing sun over our heads; every tree and plant seen on the island

being as green as we have them in England at Midsummer; and, above all,

the total absence of snow, frost, and the dark and lowering clouds

emblematic of that season in Europe. The Commander-in-Chief of the

Windward and Leeward Islands, General Greenfield, died whilst we were on

our passage out.

During the few days which we passed at anchor in Carlisle Bay, parties

of our officers went ashore at Bridgetown, where we were hospitably

entertained at the mess of the 64th regiment. Between the noise of

lizards, musquitoes, and other tormenting devils, which sing and bite

throughout the night, and unite all their efforts to destroy one’s

slumbers, I got but a small allowance of sleep, in spite of the liberal

potation of old Madeira imbibed at the 64th mess. I may here remark,

that during the whole of my stay in the West Indies, I suffered less

than the generality of my brother-officers from the bites of musquitoes,

although their eternal singing has tired my patience many a night.

Every thing which met the eye on our landing was, of course, quite new,

and, for a time, interesting to the _Johnny Newcombes_ of the regiment;

but the novelty soon wore off, and I cannot say that any thing I saw,

with the exception of the fine, bold, and striking scenery which many of

the West India Islands present in passing them at sea, (or, in the

nautical phrase, running down the islands), excited much interest in my

mind. The 87th regiment, which was stationed at St. Kitt’s, was ordered

home on our arrival.

We sailed from Barbadoes about the 28th or 29th of December, and on the

evening of the 31st anchored in English Harbour, in the island of

Antigua. Entering this harbour from the ocean, by an extremely narrow

and rocky passage, the effect is quite magical, as you instantaneously

find your ship in a calm and well-sheltered basin, surrounded by high,

rocky hills, studded in various parts with the houses and wigwams of the

blacks and coloured people. The king’s dock-yard is at the inner

extremity of the basin. Soon after midnight we commenced disembarking in

the dock-yard, from whence we marched to the Ridge and Shirly Heights

Barracks, which we reached soon after day-break on the 1st of January,

1804. We relieved a detachment of the 64th regiment, which embarked a

few days afterwards for Barbadoes. By the negligence of the guard left

in charge of the baggage at the dock-yard, or by some other mishap, I

lost every article of my baggage except one portmanteau. Few subalterns

possessed a better kit than that which I lost on this occasion; but I

never could gain any intelligence of it, nor was any remuneration

allowed me to replace it. This was an inauspicious commencement in such

a climate, where an abundance of linen and wearing apparel is so

desirable.

It is singular that in the island of Antigua there is not one spring of

fresh water. Consequently the inhabitants are dependent for their supply

of this necessary article on the rains, which fall at certain periods in

torrents, and are caught in tanks, with which the barracks, as well as

the generality of the better class of houses, are provided. From January

until June 1804, scarcely a drop of rain fell; so that for many weeks we

were on an extremely small allowance of water. Even this would have been

still more limited, had not several sloops been constantly employed,

during this drought, in bringing barrels of water from the neighbouring

island of Montserrat, and thereby replenishing the tanks. Although the

members of the corps to which I had the honour to belong, were by no

means addicted to the use of water as a beverage, we nevertheless

suffered severely from its scarcity.

During the first five months after our arrival, the regiment continued

comparatively healthy; but in the month of June we were suddenly visited

with an attack of yellow fever, that eternal curse and scourge of

Europeans, which in a few days filled the hospitals to such an excess as

has, perhaps, never been exceeded in any regiment, and but rarely

equalled. Between the months of June and October we buried two-thirds of

the officers who came out with the regiment from England, six of whom

were captains. The ravages occasioned by this infernal pestilence

amongst the soldiers, their wives, and children, bore a full proportion

to that of the officers; nor did there appear any symptom of the fever

subsiding, until the islands were visited, in the month of October, by

one of the most violent hurricanes which had been experienced for many

years. Intermitting fevers and agues now took the place of the yellow

fever, which seemed to have nearly expended its fury. In short, by the

end of 1804, the regiment was a perfect skeleton, and could with great

difficulty furnish men to perform the regimental duties.

We buried also, at this period, the military governor, General Dunlop,

and his brigade-major, Captain Vans, both of whom came out with us from

England in the Pandour. The deaths were so frequent, that General Dunlop

directed the procession and forms usually observed at military funerals

to be discontinued, and that the coffins of officers deceased should be

carried to the grave on the shoulders of the soldiers, without band or

drums, and without a party to fire over them. This I have ever thought a

most prudent order; for what can so much tend to depress the spirits as

the constant recurrence of that imposing ceremony. The general expressed

a wish that, in the event of his own death, he should be buried

precisely in a similar manner. This order was obeyed to the letter; and

both he and his brigade-major, who died within a few days of each other,

were taken to their graves in a light waggon, attended by the few of our

officers and soldiers who were able to do duty, and by a small party of

artillerymen.

As a proof that this dreadful fever visits Europeans newly arrived with

tenfold virulence, the three companies of the 37th regiment, in garrison

with us at this time, had not more than two or three men in hospital,

whilst our men were dying at the rate of eight and ten daily. The 37th

had been several years in Trinidad and other islands, and were seasoned

to the climate. In 1805, the survivors amongst us were, in some measure,

seasoned, and the deaths consequently were not so frequent.

For the benefit and edification of the faculty, I must commit to paper

the following fact, for the accuracy of which I pledge myself, although

I fear there are but few living witnesses to bear me out in my

assertion.

At the time when almost every officer was on the sick-list, and the

fever raged with the utmost fury, I felt every symptom which I had heard

described by so many of my friends who had been attacked, and had fallen

victims to the disorder. Violent pains, flushed face, my eyes burning as

if ready to start from their sockets, excessive languor and thirst, made

me think it more than probable that my turn had at length arrived to be

carried to the little town of Falmouth, and my bones to be deposited in

the churchyard. This attack, which took place in the evening, was

extremely sudden, for I was in rude health two hours before. I instantly

went to bed without consulting any one, ordered my servant to bring me a

jug of boiling Madeira, which I swallowed, and soon fell into a sound

sleep; from which I did not awake until six or seven hours afterwards.

The fever had entirely left me, but I was so debilitated as not to

recover from its short attack in less than ten days or a fortnight. I

must endeavour to throw a light on this case of mine, by explaining to

my medical friends, that I attribute the preservation of my life to the

boiling Madeira, inasmuch as it produced a most violent perspiration,

which, with my youth and a strong constitution, proved an overmatch for

the fever, and rescued me from its grasp. It was a kill or cure

business, and worthy only of a wild youth, who, in after-years, has

often looked back with astonishment at his folly, and at the success

which attended his mad-brained remedy. If a constant exposure to the sun

in shooting, boating, riding, &c. &c., contrary to the repeated advice

of old and experienced West Indians, were causes likely to produce

effects fatal to a newly-arrived European, I most certainly did deserve

to suffer.

West Indians are proverbially fond of dancing, and are not satisfied

either with a moderate allowance of it. Often have we retired at

day-break from private dances, bathed, and dressed for parade, without

attempting to procure a moment’s sleep until the following night. Such

frolics as these, aided by liberal potations of sangaree, cold punch,

and other fluids, throughout the evening, cannot long be played off with

impunity, even in climates less destructive than the one in question.

Sir William Myers, the Commander-in-chief of the Windward and Leeward

Islands, came out to take the command whilst I was in the country; and

out of fifteen or sixteen members of his family, including servants, who

accompanied him from England, eleven, besides himself, died at Barbadoes

in an incredibly short space of time. Brigadier-general Vandeleur, who

came out from Ireland in 1804, and was appointed to command the troops

in the Island of Antigua after General Dunlop’s death, survived but a

few months. The mortality in the 96th regiment, which arrived at Antigua

from Ireland in 1805, was quite dreadful; and perhaps but little less so

than that of our own corps the preceding year. Antigua was at this

period, indeed, almost a certain grave for newly arrived Europeans. Bad

as it still is, however, it cannot be doubted that the troops stationed

there of late years have suffered in a comparatively trifling degree.

About this period a French squadron appeared in those seas with some

thousand troops on board. They disembarked in considerable force at

Dominica; but the Governor, General Prevost, repulsed them in various

engagements, and finally compelled them to re-embark with loss, and to

return to Guadaloupe or Martinique. The conduct of the 46th regiment

throughout the whole business was particularly gallant.

At Antigua we were for some time afterwards in expectation of a visit

from the French squadron, and every preparation was made for its

reception which our slender means afforded. We were reinforced by the

flank companies of the 11th regiment, from some of the neighbouring

islands: we made several long marches and counter-marches, from one part

of the island to another, in consequence of various false alarms; but

the enemy never landed. Five of our soldiers died on the road from _coup

de soleil_, during one very long march in the heat of the day. Their

deaths were almost instantaneous. My servant, a young, active, and

healthy man, was one of those who died in this manner.

The 68th regiment was sent to Antigua in 1805, with its ranks sadly

reduced by the climate. It had arrived in the West Indies about five

years before, with two battalions, each 1200 strong; and I have

understood from their officers, that they had buried in those five years

2400 men and sixty-eight officers. The regiment had, of course, received

repeated drafts of men from England during that period.

Towards the end of October 1804, the air being somewhat cooled by the

rains which fell during the hurricane, several days were devoted to

horse-racing, in the vicinity of St. John’s, the principal town of

Antigua. The course is circular, and not bad. A little thorough-bred

chestnut English horse won every thing, and found no difficulty in

beating all the American and Creole horses which started against him.

The amusements of the day were followed by balls at night, which were

kept up until day-break each morning. Two officers of our regiment died

in consequence of having partaken too freely of the gaieties of the race

week. They were remarkably fine-looking men, and both grenadiers. One of

them was a most intimate friend of mine, and I have ever regretted his

loss.

In June or July 1805, Lord Nelson arrived in the West Indies, in pursuit

of the combined French and Spanish squadrons, and remained for some

hours off the island of Antigua. That he instantly returned to Europe,

not having found the object of his search in those seas, is well known;

as is also the terrible example which he made of the combined fleets a

few months afterwards off Trafalgar.

The effects of constant exposure to the sun, with other peccadilloes not

warrantable in a climate such as this, having begun to shew themselves

on me in the shape of a slow and debilitating fever, a medical board,

which assembled to consider my case, decreed that an immediate removal

to Europe was the only chance of my health being re-established.

Before I bid adieu to the spot where so many of my earliest and

much-valued military friends and companions were taken prematurely to

their long homes, I must say a word or two on the idea which I formed of

the system of slavery. I am well aware that different persons look at

this question in different points of view; but I am willing,

nevertheless, to believe, that the numbers in England who view it with

the same degree of indignation, horror, and disgust, which I ever have

done, preponderate beyond all comparison; and that the time is not far

distant, when the voices of those will be silenced who are not ashamed

to declare, that an unfortunate negro, writhing under the lash of the

merciless slave-driver, for laying aside his spade for a few minutes in

the heat of a tropical sun, or for some offence equally trivial, is

infinitely better off, decidedly more happy, and in a more enviable

situation, than the labouring peasant in the mother country. Facts are

stubborn things; and although many years have rolled over my head since

I left the West Indies, I have not yet forgotten what the system of

slavery was in 1803, 1804, and 1805. The first exhibition of the kind

which met my eye a few days after landing in Antigua, was a huge

slave-driver flogging most unmercifully an old decrepit female negro,

who appeared bowed down with misery and hard labour. I know not what her

offence was, but she was one of a gang, as they are termed, of negroes

of different sexes and ages, working with spades under a mid-day

tropical sun. A brother-officer, who was with me on a shooting

excursion, felt as astonished and indignant at this unnatural and

inhuman proceeding as myself; and our first impulse was to threaten to

shoot the driver if he did not desist. I am not ashamed to say, that,

after drawing off to such a distance that our small shot could not

seriously injure the vagabond, we peppered his legs pretty handsomely.

That we should have adopted so summary a mode of punishment, had we

lived twice as long in the world, I will not say; but my conscience has

never reproached me for the steps which we took to shew our

disapprobation of the diabolical act. I adduce this as only one of the

numerous instances of flogging which I had ocular demonstration of. I

have too often witnessed the application of the lash to old and young,

male and female, and have too frequently heard their cries and

lamentations, ever to forget it:—nor shall I ever cease to hold in utter

detestation and abhorrence this infernal system. I have several times

been on board vessels laden with slaves from the coast of Guinea; and I

have no hesitation in saying, that the most highly coloured description

of this vile traffic ever given, falls short of the reality of the

sufferings of those cargoes of ill-fated human beings. Emancipation of

the negroes must necessarily be gradual; but I am one of those who hope

most sincerely that it will in due time be effected.

Having taken my passage with two officers of the 18th and 96th

regiments, in a merchantman, bound to Dublin, I bade adieu to Antigua,

and sailed under convoy of the Netley schooner to Tortola, the grand

rendezvous of the homeward-bound fleet, which amounted to 260 sail. Here

we remained at anchor two or three days, and then took our final

departure for Europe, under a strong convoy of ships of war. It was a

magnificent sight, when the whole of this immense fleet weighed and

stood out of the harbour. In consequence of adverse winds, constant

gales, and so forth, our passage home occupied thirteen weeks, which was

more than double the time we were in making the passage out from

Portsmouth to Barbadoes in 1803. This unusually long and tedious voyage,

in a dirty old sugar-ship, during the last five weeks of which we were

on an extremely short allowance of fresh water and provisions, was

unmarked by any occurrence worthy of notice, except that, somewhere

about the latitude of the Western Islands, we encountered a terrible

storm, which lasted two days, during which seven vessels of the fleet

foundered, and three individuals only of all their crews were saved, who

were picked up by the Ramillies, 74, clinging to a piece of a wreck. One

note more on the disasters of our tedious voyage, and I have done with

the subject.

In the month of September, about two hours after midnight, it blowing

very fresh, we were almost thrown out of our berths by a sudden shock,

as if the ship had struck on a rock. In an instant we bolted on deck,

where all was dismay and confusion. A vessel, considerably larger than

our own, had run aboard us, and the two ships were hanging together by

the yards and rigging, as if they had been lashed for the purpose of

boarding; nor did any chance appear of their being extricated. Every

swell of the sea caused the ships to thump against each other, and to

give such frightful shocks, as can only be fully understood by those who

have been in a similar situation. I confess, that when I saw the master

of our ship, who was a Catholic, on his knees crossing himself and

giving up all for lost, instead of stimulating his crew, as his mate

fortunately did, to make some efforts to cut away parts of the yards and

rigging, in order to disengage us from our unwelcome neighbour, I

thought I might just as well have left my bones in Antigua, as become a

prey to sharks. Thanks to our mate and the exertions of our little crew,

the vessels at length got clear of each other. We sustained serious

injury in the rigging, yards, &c., and had our jib-boom carried away. In

addition to these disasters, a leak was sprung, which kept our pumps

constantly going during the remainder of the voyage; and every one on

board, passengers and all, was obliged to take his turn. One of the

frigates seeing our signal of distress flying at day-break, sent an

officer, with a party of men and some carpenters, to repair our damages,

who remained with us two days.

In the winter of 1805 we anchored in Dublin Bay, the beauties of which

are universally known and acknowledged, and have been a thousand times

described by far abler pens than mine. Had we not been doomed to perform

quarantine in this magnificent bay for many days, I believe my

retrospective view of it would have been infinitely more pleasing. To us

landsmen, after a three months’ voyage, wishing the yellow flag at the

devil, and looking wistfully at the shore without being permitted to

land, it was no small delight to be informed, after six or seven days’

penance thus performed, that we were at liberty to go ashore.

I spent several days very pleasantly at Dublin, with the two officers

who came home with me from Antigua. One of them returned to the West

Indies the following year, and fell a victim to the climate; the other

was promoted into the 45th regiment, and died in Portugal some years

afterwards.

I embarked in the packet, and reached Holyhead after a stormy passage of

thirty-six hours, and proceeded to my home, from which I had been absent

four years.

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