From "My Recollections"

My occupations in Rome were not entirely confined to the domains of

poetry and imagination. It must not be forgotten that I was also a

diplomatist; and in that capacity I had social as well as official

duties to perform.

The Holy Alliance had accepted the confession and repentance of Murat,

and had granted him absolution; but as the new convert inspired little

confidence, he was closely watched, in the expectation--and perhaps the

hope--of an opportunity of crowning the work by the infliction

of penance.

The penance intended was to deprive him of his crown and sceptre, and to

turn him out of the pale. Like all the other diplomatists resident in

Rome, we kept our court well informed of all that could be known or

surmised regarding the intentions of the Neapolitan government; and I

had the lively occupation of copying page after page of incomprehensible

cipher for the newborn archives of our legation. Such was my life at

that time; and in spite of the cipher, I soon found it pleasant enough.

Dinner-parties, balls, routs, and fashionable society did not then

inspire me with the holy horror which now keeps me away from them.

Having never before experienced or enjoyed anything of the kind, I was

satisfied. But in the midst of my pleasure, our successor--Marquis San

Saturnino--made his appearance, and we had to prepare for our departure.

One consolation, however, remained. I had just then been appointed to

the high rank of cornet in the crack dragoon regiment "Royal Piedmont."

I had never seen its uniform, but I cherished a vague hope of being

destined by Fortune to wear a helmet; and the prospect of realizing this

splendid dream of my infancy prevented me from regretting my Roman

acquaintances overmuch.

The Society of Jesus had meanwhile been restored, and my brother was on

the eve of taking the vows. He availed himself of the last days left him

before that ceremony to sit for his portrait to the painter Landi. This

is one of that artist's best works, who, poor man, cannot boast of many;

and it now belongs to my nephew Emanuel.

The day of the ceremony at length arrived, and I accompanied my brother

to the Convent of Monte Cavallo, where it was to take place.

The Jesuits at that time were all greatly rejoicing at the revival of

their order; and as may be inferred, they were mostly old men, with only

a few young novices among them.

We entered an oratory fragrant with the flowers adorning the altar, full

of silver ornaments, holy images, and burning wax-lights, with

half-closed windows and carefully drawn blinds; for it is a certain,

although unexplained, fact that men are more devout in the dark than in

the light, at night than in the day-time, and with their eyes closed

rather than open. We were received by the General of the order, Father

Panizzoni, a little old man bent double with age, his eyes encircled

with red, half blind, and I believe almost in his dotage. He was

shedding tears of joy, and we all maintained the pious and serious

aspect suited to the occasion, until the time arrived for the novice to

step forward, when, lo! Father Panizzoni advanced with open arms toward

the place where I stood, mistaking me for my brother; a blunder which

for a moment imperiled the solemnity of the assembly.

Had I yielded to the embrace of Father Panizzoni, it would have been a

wonderful bargain both for him and me. But this was not the only

invitation I then received to enter upon a sacerdotal career. Monsignor

Morozzo, my great-uncle and god-father, then secretary to the bishops

and regular monks, one day proposed that I should enter the

Ecclesiastical Academy, and follow the career of the prelacy under his

patronage. The idea seemed so absurd that I could not help laughing

heartily, and the subject was never revived.

Had I accepted these overtures, I might in the lapse of time have long

since been a cardinal, and perhaps even Pope. And if so, I should have

drawn the world after me, as the shepherd entices a lamb with a lump of

salt. It was very wrong in me to refuse. Doubtless the habit of

expressing my opinion to every one, and on all occasions, would have led

me into many difficulties. I must either have greatly changed, or a very

few years would have seen an end of me.

We left Rome at last, in the middle of winter, in an open carriage, and

traveling chiefly by night, as was my father's habit. While the horses

are trotting on, I will sum up the impressions of Rome and the Roman

world which I was carrying away. The clearest idea present to my mind

was that the priests of Rome and their religion had very little in

common with my father and Don Andreis, or with the religion professed by

them and by the priests and the devout laity of Turin. I had not been

able to detect the slightest trace of that which in the language of

asceticism is called unction. I know not why, but that grave and

downcast aspect, enlivened only by a few occasional flashes of ponderous

clerical wit, the atmosphere depressing as the _plumbeus auster_ of

Horace, in which I had been brought up under the rule of my priest,--all

seemed unknown at Rome. There I never met with a monsignore or a priest

who did not step out with a pert and jaunty air, his head erect, showing

off a well-made leg, and daintily attired in the garb of a clerical

dandy. Their conversation turned upon every possible subject, and

sometimes upon _quibusdam aliis_, to such a degree that it was evident

my father was perpetually on thorns. I remember a certain prelate, whom

I will not name, and whose conduct was, I believe, sufficiently free and

easy, who at a dinner-party at a villa near Porta Pia related laughingly

some matrimonial anecdotes, which I at that time did not fully

understand. And I remember also my poor father's manifest distress, and

his strenuous endeavors to change the conversation and direct it into a

different channel.

The prelates and priests whom I used to meet in less orthodox companies

than those frequented by my father seemed to me still more free and

easy. Either in the present or in the past, in theory or in practice,

with more or less or even no concealment, they all alike were sailing or

had sailed on the sweet _fleuve du tendre_. For instance, I met one old

canon bound to a venerable dame by a tie of many years' standing. I also

met a young prelate with a pink-and-white complexion and eyes expressive

of anything but holiness; he was a desperate votary of the fair sex, and

swaggered about paying his homage right and left. Will it be believed,

this gay apostle actually told me, without circumlocution, that in the

monastery of Tor di Specchi there dwelt a young lady who was in love

with me? I, who of course desired no better, took the hint instantly,

and had her pointed out to me. Then began an interchange of silly

messages, of languishing looks, and a hundred absurdities of the same

kind; all cut short by the pair of post-horses which carried us out of

the Porta del Popolo....

The opinions of my father respecting the clergy and the Court of Rome

were certainly narrow and prejudiced; but with his good sense it was

impossible for him not to perceive what was manifest even to a blind

man. During our journey he kept insinuating (without appearing, however,

to attach much importance to it) that it was always advisable to speak

with proper respect of a country where we had been well received, even

if we had noticed a great many abuses and disorders. To a certain

extent, this counsel was well worthy of attention. He was doubtless much

grieved at the want of decency apparent in one section of that society,

or, to use a modern expression, at its absence of respectability; but he

consoled himself by thinking, like Abraham the Jew in the 'Decameron,'

that no better proof can be given of the truth of the religion professed

by Rome than the fact of its enduring in such hands.

This reasoning, however, is not quite conclusive; for if Boccaccio had

had patience to wait another forty years, he would have learnt, first

from John Huss, and then from Luther and his followers, that although in

certain hands things may last a while, it is only till they are worn

out. What Boccaccio and the Jew would say now if they came back, I do

not venture to surmise,

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