Of the beautiful light that falls upon the Palace of Fine Arts (p. 137),

I can do no better than to quote from Royal Cortissoz: "At night and

illuminated, it might be a scene from Rome or from Egypt, a gigantic

ruin of some masterpiece left by Emperor or Pharaoh. The lagoon is

bordered by more of those heavenly hedges that I have described. There

are trees and thickets to add to the bewilderment of the place, to make

it veritably the silenzio verde of the poet. And with the ineffable tact

which marks the lighting of the Fair, this serene spot is left almost,

but not quite, to the dim loveliness of night. The glow that is given

its full value elsewhere is here at its faintest. The pageant ends in a

hush that is as much of the spirit as of the senses."

XIV.

Music at the Exposition

Early neglect of music by the Exposition management remedied by the

appointment of George W. Stewart, of Boston, as manager--Engagements of

Camille Saint-Saens and the Boston Symphony Orchestra the musical events

of the summer--Original compositions by the French master--Sousa and

his great band--Other notable bands--Lemare's organ concerts- Splendid

choral performances by famous organizations--A half-million for music.

Music cannot be omitted from any scheme of mundane celebration. In an

exposition of the character of this one, where all art has been given so

high a place, this gift of the gods must assume an unusual importance.

It is important here, not only as a means of entertainment, but as a

means of cultural development, and as an intellectual factor in the

evolution of the race. This Exposition justifies itself by its

storehouses of knowledge. Its reason for existence is, the permanent

advancement of the people of the world in all that art, science, and

industry, can bring to its palaces for pleasurable study.

With the agreement that a great pipe organ was to be installed in

Festival Hall, and that orchestras and bands were to be engaged, the

early speculative musical labors of the directorate ended. Casual indeed

was the attention paid to music during all of the early part of the

pre-Exposition period. Material interests--and there were millions of

them--cried for consideration, while the still, small voice of music

was drowned in the clangor of construction. Just as music is the last of

the arts to receive recognition at our universities, so it was neglected

here until so much time had elapsed that only the most fortunate of

accidents could give song and symphony their proper places among the

wonders that were ultimately to find a home in the Jewel City.

Fortunately, accident for once proved kind; vigorous direction emerged

fortuitously from apathy.

In the early building period, President C. C. Moore turned aside from

his other cares long enough to appoint J. B. Levison Chief of the Music

Department. A better choice could hardly have been made. For more than

two decades Mr. Levison, an able amateur in music, and a business man of

high standing, had been identified with all of San Francisco's larger

efforts in its musical life. But Mr. Levison's grasp of the importance

of such a post was more comprehensive than President Moore's, for he

refused the position. Fortunately, however, he had his attention

directed to George W. Stewart, of Boston, a former artist of the Boston

Symphony Orchestra, a man technically equipped, who had made a great

success of the music at the St. Louis Exposition. Stewart was engaged,

and to him is due the credit for the remarkable record music has already

made at the Panama-Pacific Exposition.

Aside from the construction of the $50,000 pipe organ, which, after the

Exposition, will be placed permanently in the Civic Auditorium, the two

most important musical items found on the schedule of Exposition

enterprises are the engagements of Camille Saint-Saens and the Boston

Symphony Orchestra. The former, who maintained that "Beethoven is the

greatest, the only real, artist, because he upheld the idea of universal

brotherhood," is perhaps better fitted than any living composer to write

special music for the Exposition. This he has done,--writing two

compositions in fact; and their presentation has been an outstanding

feature. "Hail, California," was dedicated to the Exposition. Scored for

an orchestra of eighty, a military band of sixty, a chorus of 300

voices, pipe organ and piano, its first presentation was an event. The

Saint-Saens Symphony in C minor (No. 3) Opus 78, composed many years

ago, has become a classic during the life-time of its creator. It was

one of the wonders of the Boston Symphony programmes played in Festival

Hall. Its yield of immediate pleasure and its reassurance for the works

of Saint-Saens to be heard later, grew from the fact that it was scored

for orchestra and pipe organ, and in this massive tonal web the genius

of the composer to write in magnificent size was overwhelmingly evident,

thus forecasting the splendors of "Hail, California."

The other work written by this visitor from Paris is in oratorio form

and titled, appropriately, "The Promised Land." A huge choir of 400

voices, directed by Wallace Sabin and named in honor of the visitor, the

"Saint-Saens Choir," rendered a good account of the ensemble sections of

the choral composition, while the Exposition orchestra of 80

instrumentalists and the Exposition organ added effectiveness to the

accompaniment. Sabin presided at the organ. In addition to these

appearances, the composer conducted three recitals during the latter

part of June, when all of the compositions offered were his work.

The visit of Dr. Karl Muck with his Boston Symphony Orchestra has become

a luminous memory. The trip is utterly new in the history of music

anywhere, nothing like it ever before having been attempted. It is said

that the transportation bills alone amounted to $15,000, and there were

no stop-overs en route for concert performances to help in defraying

this bulky first cost. It is proper to record here the financial success

of the venture. While the season of twelve concerts was yet young, more

than $40,000 had been taken in at the box office, and the estimated

expenses of $60,000 were liquidated, with a margin of profit. This was

enhanced by an extra concert, the thirteenth. Tickets for the season

were sold in Chicago, New York, Boston, Seattle, Spokane, Tacoma, St.

Louis, Portland, Maine, and Portland, Oregon, while San Francisco and

the bay communities in general sent their thousands to the glorious

recitals. The result will be seen in a stimulation of music in the West.

But the engagements of Saint-Saens and Dr. Muck with his orchestra do

not sum up the important activities of the Exposition's music. There are

other features which challenge even these in popular estimation.

John Philip Sousa has spent a long season at the Exposition. A blunder

was somewhere made in dating the arrival of the March King and his

splendid instrumentalists, who came while yet the Boston Symphonists

were playing in Festival Hall. As a result the finest of bands was

placed in competition with the finest of orchestras. But nothing

disastrous happened. Those who desired, to the number of fifteen

thousand, heard Sousa at his opening concert in the Court of the

Universe; those who desired heard Dr. Muck's instrumentalists, to the

seating capacity of Festival Hall.

Featured concerts have been and are being given by massed bands composed

of Sousa's, Cassasa's, Conway's and other military or concert

organizations.

Briefly, and regardless of the importance of each item, here are some of

the attractions which make this Exposition vocal and harmonious: Edwin

Henry Lemare, of London, by general critical agreement declared the

greatest living organist, is expected here early in September, when he

will begin his series of one hundred organ recitals, to continue till

the Exposition closes in December. A unique episode of the Exposition

music must not be overlooked in the recital by Madame Schumann-Heink,

whose graciousness found another expression in her concert given

exclusively and gratuitously to the children. More than three thousand

of the little folk were in Festival Hall when the grandest of singers

sang for them alone. The visit already accomplished of Gabriel Pares and

his famous Republican Guard band of Paris; the engagement already begun

of the Ogden Tabernacle Choir of 300 voices; the Eisteddfod competitive

concerts; the long stay of the Philippine Constabulary band under the

leadership of Captain W. H. Loving; Emil Mollenhauer's big Boston band;

the concerts of the United Swedish Singers; the Apollo Music Club's

premised visit from Chicago--the organization is coming intact with all

of its 250 vocalists and its distinguished composer-conductor, Harrison

M. Wild; La Loie Fuller's spectacles, and the engagement of forty noted

organists to appear in Festival Hall in addition to Lemare and Clarence

Eddy, are a few of the accomplished or promised attractions. To this

list must be added the daily concerts given gratis at different periods

by various bands other than those named--the official Exposition band

of 45 players under the seasoned direction of Charles H. Cassasa;

Thaviu's splendid band of 50; Conway's military and concert band of 50,

and others yet to be had in the world of music will be spread for their

delecta-concerts are booked. As proof of the worth of these, let the

achievements of the recent past speak. We have heard the Alameda County

1915 Chorus of 250 voices under Alexander Stewart in a majestic

performance of Handel's "Messiah;" the Exposition Chorus under Wallace

Sabin in a repetition of the music sung as part of the opening day's

celebration--"The Heavens are Telling," from Haydn's "Creation," and

the official hymn--"A Noble Work"--by Mrs. H. H. A. Beach; the Berkeley

Oratorio Society under the inspiring direction of Paul Steindorff in two

splendid concerts, the first given to Rossini's "Stabat Mater" and the

second to Brahms' "German Requiem;" and the Pacific Choral Society's

performance of Haydn's "Creation" under the musicianly leadership of

Warren B. Allen. More music may confidently be looked for from these

rich sources.

The Exposition authorities declare that half a million dollars will have

been expended on music before the end of the life of the great

enterprise. Thus visitors to the Exposition may come at any period of

the Jewel City's existence, knowing that the best to be had in the world

of music will be spread for their delectation, and that they will be

afforded a comprehensive view of the art of tone as it exists today. In

this respect the Exposition's musical "exhibit" is similar in its scope

to the revealments in all its other departments; for the Exposition is

avowedly devoted to contemporaneous rather than historic achievements.

Nothing that extends contemplation over a wider period than the last

five years is admitted for competitive exhibition. The modern composer,

no less than the modern inventor, is having his day at the Exposition.

This is as it should be. We are hearing, have heard, or will hear, the

last utterances of present-day musical creators. Indeed, in the case of

one--Saint-Saens--we heard, as I have recounted, two massive

compositions written expressly for the Panama-Pacific International

Exposition, and John Philip Sousa has bent his most martial mood to the

composition of an inspiring march which is called "Panama." But music

also enjoys a privilege not accorded equally to any other department of

Exposition display. The works of the past, as well as the present, are

given. A history of music at the Exposition properly written--as one

surely should be--would be an epitome of the evolution of the art from

Cherubini, Haydn and Bach to Richard Strauss, Saint-Saens and Debussy.

It would involve in its telling the stories of music in Italy, Germany,

Austria, England, France, Russia, Scandinavia, yes, and America, too! It

would include an account of the genealogy of the modern orchestra as

exemplified in the Boston Symphony or the Official Symphony, and of

military bands up to the perfected concert organizations headed by a

Sousa or a Gabriel Pares. It would embrace with like inclusiveness the

history of the pipe organ through its stages of evolution from the

ponderous instruments with men straddling unwieldy bellows to the marvel

installed in Festival Hall, and it would embrace the history of the art

of organ music up to such exemplars as our own Clarence Eddy, John &.

McClellan, Edwin Lemare, and Camille Saint-Saens. What a chapter would

be set aside for the record of Exposition choral music! Already there

has gone abroad from the Festival Hall an impetus towards better chorus

music that will, I feel sure, firmly establish this somewhat neglected

department of musical art in the far West.

XV.

Inside the Exhibit Palaces

All competitive exhibits strictly contemporaneous, showing the arts of

to-day--Revolution worked by the motion-picture theater in exhibition

methods--The lessons of Machinery Palace--Coal and steam fast yielding

to liquid fuels and waterpower and electricity--Life-saving devices,

accident prevention and employees' welfare made prominent in Palaces of

Machinery and Mines--A contrast in locomotives--Building a motor car

every ten minutes--Co-operative exhibits in Food-Products Palace--Many

great displays by the United States Government--Educational exhibits

not duplicated, each state or city showing its specialty.

In its industrial displays, as well as its art, the Exposition keeps

steadily in view the fact that it commemorates a contemporary event; it

is contemporaneous, not historical. Hence it was decreed from the first

that the exhibits must be the products of the last decade, a rule

strictly observed save in rare cases where older forms have been

admitted for comparison. The result is two-fold. The exhibits are

condensed to the essential, giving room for a greater number of

exhibitors; and the progress of the world is shown as of today.

Eleven palaces house the exhibits, exclusive of live stock. Officially,

the things shown in the state and foreign buildings are not "exhibits,"

but "displays," and are not eligible for award. In general, the names of

the palaces indicate the classes of exhibits to be found in them. No

sharp line, however, can be drawn between the Palaces of Manufactures

and Varied Industries, or between Agriculture and Food Products. In

other cases there is some overlapping of classes. One section of the

Liberal Arts exhibit is in the Palace of Machinery.

A striking feature of almost all the palaces, and one that

differentiates this Exposition from its great predecessors of a decade

or more ago, is the common use of the moving-picture machine as the

fastest and most vivid method of displaying human activities and

scenery. Everywhere it is showing industrial processes. Former

expositions, for want of this device, have been mainly exhibitions of

products. These have hitherto been shown in such bulk as to fill vast

floor spaces and become a weariness to the flesh, while it was

impossible, from the nature of things, to exhibit the great primary

industries of field, forest, sea and mine in actual operation. The

motion-picture machine has not only lessened the areas of products

shown, thus making this Exposition more compact than former ones; but it

has increased the effectiveness of exhibition methods by carrying the

spectator, figuratively, into the midst of operations, and showing him

men at work in all the important processes of agriculture, in the

logging camps, in mines and fisheries, as well as in the mills and

factories where the raw materials of these basic industries are worked

into finished products. Its value for showing scenery, too, is fully

utilized here. Many of the states and foreign countries employ it. Even

faraway Siam uses it to instruct the Occident concerning her resources

and people. Counting those in the state and foreign buildings,

seventy-seven free moving-picture halls are to be found within the

Exposition. Their efficiency is indicated by the crowds that throng them

daily.

The Palace of Machinery holds three lessons for the observer. It shows

not only the state of man's invention at the present moment, the

increasing displacement of coal by hydroelectric plants and liquid

fuels, but what is perhaps more significant, the changing direction of

invention toward devices for human betterment. The Diesel oil engine and

multitudes of electrical machines stand for the latest word in

mechanical invention. The Diesel again, with a host of other internal

combustion engines, the electric motors and waterpower plants, and the

absence of steam machines, bear witness to the downfall of steam. But

the great space given to safety devices, to labor-saving machines, to

road-making machinery, and to mechanical devices for increasing the

comfort of country life, are evidence of the part machinery is coming to

play in the task of making life more livable. As an exhibition of modern

mechanical invention, Machinery Hall is unique, as all this Exposition

is unique. There is almost nothing in it that is not the product of the

last ten years; it actually represents construction of the last two

years. Indeed, the wholly contemporary nature of the exhibits leaves the

visitor without visible means of comparison.

As at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876, a prime mover is the central

figure in the building. There it was the immense Corliss steam engine.

Here it is a Diesel, started by President Wilson by wireless on the

opening day, and generating all the direct current used in the palace.

Another commanding exhibit is a 20,000 horsepower hydro-electric

generator, significant of the modern use of water-power. The United

States Government is the largest exhibitor in the building, with

numerous fine models of warships, docks, dams and submarine mines;

torpedoes, artillery, armorplate and shells, army equipment,

ammunition-making machinery in operation, light-houses and aids to

navigation, and a splendid set of models illustrating road-making

methods. Crowded out of its proper place in the Palace of Liberal Arts,

the exhibit of the printing trades occupies a section here, including a

huge color press turning out illustrated Sunday supplements.

The Palace of Mines and Metallurgy offers ample evidence of the great

figure which steel now makes in the world, and of the vast extent of the

petroleum industry. Here, too, as in Machinery Hall, accident prevention

is emphasized. From this point of view insurance exhibits are not out of

place here. The United States Steel Corporation, with its subsidiary

companies, shows in this palace the largest single exhibit seen in the

Exposition, save those of the United States Government. Noteworthy are

its excellent models of iron and coal-mining plants, coke ovens.

furnaces, rolling mills, docks, ships, and barges, and an extensive

section devoted to the welfare of employees, with model playgrounds.

Many states and nations, and many world-famous mining companies are

represented by exhibits of ores and metals, of mine models, and mining

and metallurgical processes in operation. California shows a gold

dredger and a hydraulic mine in operation. The great copper mines of

California, Montana, Utah, and Japan, have installed significant

exhibits. The United States Government operates in this palace a model

mint, a model post office, and features a daily "mine explosion," with a

demonstration of rescue work.

The Palace of Transportation places its emphasis on automobiles and

roads, electric locomotives and cars, and the mammoth types of modern

steam locomotives. All of these exhibits represent construction of the

last year, with one exception. The first Central Pacific locomotive

stands beside a Mallet Articulated engine,--an enormous contrast. One

third of the floor space is filled with steam and electric locomotives

and modern cars. Some are sectioned, and operated by electric motors,

vividly illustrating the latest mechanical devices. Another third of the

palace is devoted to motor cars. The Ford Motor Car Company maintains a

factory exhibit in which a continuous stream of Fords is assembled and

driven away, one every ten minutes.

Plans for a great exhibit of aeroplanes were destroyed by the war. The

Exposition, however, maintains a constant exhibit of the spectacular

side of aeronautics in remarkable flights by famous aviators. After

Lincoln Beachey was killed in one of these performances, his place was

taken by Arthur Smith, who was instantly crowned as a far more dazzling

birdman. Two aeroplanes are the only representation in the palace.

Steamship companies have erected here sections of their vessels.

Railroads make interesting exhibits of scenery along their routes, of

safety devices and of railroad accessories. The Canadian Pacific, Grand

Trunk Pacific, Great Northern, Southern Pacific, Union Pacific, and

Santa Fe systems maintain buildings of their own, exhibiting the

scenery, agriculture and other resources of the country through which

they pass.

The Palace of Varied Industries illustrates the enormous complexity of

modern material needs. Packed with severely selected manufactures, it is

made especially interesting by the many processes shown in operation.

Cotton and woolen mills, linen looms, knitting machines, machines for

weaving fire hose, a shoe-making factory, a broom factory, and many

others, are particularly attractive because they are engaged in making

familiar articles. The machines in use demonstrate the refinements of

present-day manufacturing processes. The factories of many nations are

represented in this palace. Germany makes here her largest exhibit,

notably of cutlery and pottery.

The Palace of Manufactures differs from the Palace of Varied Industries

as a bolt of silk differs from a bale of leather. Yet this general

distinction between the finer and the coarser classes of factory

products is not rigidly adhered to. The Palace of Manufactures is

distinguished by a remarkable exhibit of fine wares by the Japanese, and

another of commercial art from Italy. Fortunately this Japanese display

is of goods in the ancient style, infinitely more interesting, though

less significant, than the extensive exhibits in other palaces of

Japanese wares manufactured in competition with Western nations. Most

beautiful are the ceramics, the lacquered ware, and the silks. Great

Britain is an extensive exhibitor of cutlery, pottery, and textiles.

Manufacturing processes are shown in operation in this palace, though

less than in the Palace of Varied Industries.

The Palace of Liberal Arts found its six acres of floor space

insufficient. The exhibits, forming a remarkable demonstration of the

breadth of applied science, embrace electrical means of communication,

including wireless telegraphy and telephony, musical instruments,

chemistry, photography, instruments of precision and of surgery,

theatrical appliances, engineering, architecture, map-making,

typography, printing, book-binding, paper manufacture, scientific

apparatus, typewriters, coins and medals, and innumerable other

articles. A great space is occupied by talking machines "demonstrated"

in musical theatres, and by cameras. The American Telegraph and

Telephone Company maintains transcontinental telephone connection

between its theatre and New York, and gives daily demonstrations. The

United States Government has installed a great variety of displays. Most

striking, perhaps, is the section from the National Museum, where the

most modern methods of exhibition are exemplified in cases containing

human groups that are almost real life. The great pipe organ in Festival

Hall is classed as one of the exhibits of this palace. Germany, Japan,

China, the Netherlands, Uruguay, Cuba, and New Zealand are heavy

exhibitors here. Of special interest is the German exhibit of radium and

its allied metals.

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